For the Modeler: BUILDING CAVIATS: Note to remember:

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Ruby Jenkins
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Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20150921* Time Machine Mk I (Original - Back To The Future) 1:25 Scale Polar Lights Model Kit #POL911 Review Marty: "Wait a minute. Wait a minute. Doc, uh.

1 Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Time Machine Mk I (Original - Back To The Future) 1:25 Scale Polar Lights Model Kit #POL911 Review Marty: "Wait a minute. Wait a minute. Doc, uh... Are you telling me that you built a time machine... out of a DeLorean?" Doc: "Yes, the way I see it, if you're gonna build a time machine into a car, why not do it with some style? The DeLorean time machine is a fictional automobile-based time travel device featured in the Back to the Future trilogy. In the feature film series, Dr. Emmett Brown builds a time machine from a DeLorean DMC- 12 with the intent of gaining insights into history and the future but instead winds up using it to travel across 130 years of Hill Valley history (from 1885 to 2015) with Marty McFly, undoing the negative effects of time travel. For most of the first film, the 1.21 gigawatts are supplied by a plutonium-powered nuclear reactor and, with the absence of plutonium, a bolt of lightning channeled directly into the flux capacitor by a long pole and hook in the film's climactic sequence. At the end of the first film, and for the remainder of the trilogy, the plutonium nuclear reactor is replaced by a "Mr. Fusion Home Energy Reactor" generator possibly acquired in The "Mr. Fusion" device apparently converts household waste into electrical power.

2 For the Modeler: This review covers the Snap-It kit # POL911 from Polar Lights/Round2 of the Time Machine from the Back To The Future movie. The kit is 1/25 scale and listed as a Skill Level 1 and it is a Snap Together kit but; the kit requires paint for detailing. The model includes about 50 parts molded in Gray, Clear, Chrome, Brushed Steel and it has Vinyl tires. This is a Re-Release (Re-Pop), SORT-OF, as it was released in multiple movie versions earlier under AMT and now done under Polar Lights. Polar Lights has updated the moldings to include a Brushed Steel looking body that more accurately depicts the Stainless Steel body. As with the previous AMT versions this one includes the original Plutonium Reactor as well as the Lightening Rod and Mr. Fusion. So in effect you can replicate multiple versions of the car with this one kit. The build is simplistic but painting is very tedious and detail specific. Go to the internet and download reference photos to give you a better idea as to how to properly paint it. The only decals are the license plates in the OUTATIME and BAR CODE versions that are stickers. Overall dimensions are: Length: 7, Width: 4, Height: 3. BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the car YOU want! Unless you are building a Factory Stock or a Replica car your choices of color and build options is completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no Wrong way to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly. PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the 2013 Polar Lights/ Round2 version. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer s White Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel or Acrylic bottle paints and Rattle can spray paints. The body is finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection.

BUILDING AND DETAILS NOTE: As this is a Snap Together kit and created for a more entry level builder compared to some of the other offerings on the market so there are fewer details.

As a builder you should always strive to learn the skills needed and progress to the levels you desire for detailing.

PIC 2 Here are the ONLY decals, a set of stickers of the plates for both the original and future versions of the car. PIC 3 The build starts with the dash.

3 BUILDING AND DETAILS NOTE: As this is a Snap Together kit and created for a more entry level builder compared to some of the other offerings on the market so there are fewer details. Also as I am assembling and creating this build as a review to encompass all builder levels so I too will use a more simplified detailing. As a builder you should always strive to learn the skills needed and progress to the levels you desire for detailing. This kit is an excellent opportunity to learn new skills in fine details and adding your own details. Add or subtract the detailing as your abilities allow. PIC 2 Here are the ONLY decals, a set of stickers of the plates for both the original and future versions of the car. PIC 3 The build starts with the dash. PIC 4 There are no decals included and the gauges are empty, previous versions this dash had decals. OPTION: I went on the internet and Googled DeLorean Back to the future dash instruments. I then used my photo program and cropped the instruments to fit. I printed a sheet of decals on Clear decal paper and made my own. The crop of the instrument panel is 17mm, the Plutonium gauges 15mm and the time circuits was 8mm. The details are not great at that size and once the dash is installed they are not even seen.

Add the instrument panel, time circuits and plutonium gauge DECALS (if you made them) or paint those details onto the dash.

4 PIC 5 Paint the dash Gray, the wheel Black and the clock Gold. The components on the dash are painted in this order from left to right: Black, Black, White, Red, Red with multiple colors wires. Add the instrument panel, time circuits and plutonium gauge DECALS (if you made them) or paint those details onto the dash. Install the wheel and add the clock. PIC 6 The interior will be assembled in multiple steps. All of the parts need to be painted Gray and then details added. The rear panel on the interior tub is Flat Black.

5 PIC 7 The console is painted Silver on the time controller and Black on the shifter. Add some color to resemble wires in the time controller. The seats can be added into place now.

PIC 8 The back panel is detailed now. There are multiple online resources for photos. The actual part in the kit is overly simplified from the real item.

The circuit board behind the driver seat is Silver. Add Gold to the small part beside that and Silver to the canisters.

6 PIC 8 The back panel is detailed now. There are multiple online resources for photos. The actual part in the kit is overly simplified from the real item. I painted the control boxes behind the passenger seat Black with Gold highlight. The Flux Capacitor is White with a Black case. The circuit board behind the driver seat is Silver. Add Gold to the small part beside that and Silver to the canisters. Note: detail as you see fit and as to what references you used, I did a simplified detailing as much of it is not able to be seen once assembled. PIC 9 Finish installing the interior parts. Add the dash in place. Install the rear panel. Snap the door panels to the dash, floor and rear panel.

PIC 10 PIC 11 OPTIONAL: I found a scale copy of the Hill Valley Telegraph paper

I sized it as needed and will print it on regular paper.

PIC 12 Detail the rear panel as you see fit, references online abound.

7 PIC 10 PIC 11 OPTIONAL: I found a scale copy of the Hill Valley Telegraph paper with the Clock Tower story. I sized it as needed and will print it on regular paper. I will fold this and glue it on the seat for a little added detail. PIC 12 Detail the rear panel as you see fit, references online abound. I did a simplified version using a few different shades of Silver and some Red, Blue and Green. Paint the two parts that add on to the passenger side Green. Assemble them and add them in place.

PIC 13 PIC 14 The chassis pan is painted Flat Black with

You can highlight other parts as you see fit for details.

8 PIC 13 PIC 14 The chassis pan is painted Flat Black with the motor and transmission Steel. You can highlight other parts as you see fit for details. In the movie most of the undercarriage was Black for filming purposes. On the underside remove the Polar Lights script with a razor blade and sandpaper. Sand off the copyright information also. PIC 15 Here is my painted underside of the chassis pan. PIC 16 Flip this over and install the interior tub into place.

PIC 17 The body is started next. While it is already the proper Stainless Steel there are details that need painting to make it look like it should.

PIC 20 PIC 21 OPTIONAL: Prior to assembly I want to give the glass a thinner crisper look. I will dip the parts into Pledge Floor Care.

Simply pour some Pledge into a small container and dip your clear glass into it. It's a kind of magic; it will self-level and make the part clearer!

Place the parts on a sheet of paper towel to cure, the paper towel will draw out the excess Pledge and Wick it off the parts so it does not accumulate

9 PIC 17 The body is started next. While it is already the proper Stainless Steel there are details that need painting to make it look like it should. Here is a list of the painted areas: Rear bumper Black, Rear panel Gray, Inner rear panel Black, Side moldings Black, Lower side panels Black, Front nose panel Gray, Front Bumper Black, Spoiler Black, Grille Black with Silver DMC logo, Wires on the sides Red and Gray, Cowl and wipers Black, Mirrors Black, Rear window vents Black and Windshield molding Black. PIC 18 PIC 19 The finished paint work on the body. PIC 20 PIC 21 OPTIONAL: Prior to assembly I want to give the glass a thinner crisper look. I will dip the parts into Pledge Floor Care. When applied to both side of a piece of clear polystyrene, it will make glass appear thinner and clearer. It will help to hide minor scratches also. Simply pour some Pledge into a small container and dip your clear glass into it. It's a kind of magic; it will self-level and make the part clearer! After you dip the part, be sure to place a cover over it to prevent dust from collecting on it. Place the parts on a sheet of paper towel to cure, the paper towel will draw out the excess Pledge and Wick it off the parts so it does not accumulate at the edges leaving an unwanted buildup. Install the windows and roof console. The side window has a small molding that is Black. The console is Gray with Black and silver highlights on the buttons and White in the side. Snap the window in place. Add the console and snap it in place.

10 PIC 22 Start at the rear and with a 45 degree angle start to shoehorn the chassis into the body. It will snap firmly in place. PIC 23 Start the rear assembly next.

PIC 24 The brake lights are supposed to be Black with the lenses Red and White. Paint the frame work Black and the lens area Stop Light Red with the inner line of lenses White.

11 PIC 24 The brake lights are supposed to be Black with the lenses Red and White. Paint the frame work Black and the lens area Stop Light Red with the inner line of lenses White. The Framework is Gray on the wire assembly. The lower connectors are a Blue Gray, the wires Red. The upper connectors are Blue Gray with Silver and Black components. Install the tail lights. You can add your license plate now too. Snap the lower panel into place. Snap the top panel into the roof. Add each side panel lining up the tabs of the top and bottom to them.

Install the headlights and use Elmer s White Glue to create a film on the

Paint the wire panel Gray with Blue Gray connectors on the ends.

12 PIC 25 Add the front panels now. PIC 26 Install the side parts to the wire panel. Install the headlights and use Elmer s White Glue to create a film on the lights. When it dries clear it will create a realistic looking lens. Paint the wire panel Gray with Blue Gray connectors on the ends. The wires that are on the added on parts is Black. Install the front wire panel to the car. PIC 27 The rear exhaust units are painted Flat Black and added in place now.

13 PIC 28 The inner louvers are installed in place and the units snap into the rear panel. The lines are painted Steel and run from the outside of the exhaust to the back panel in the car.

Mr. Fusion PIC 30 This build will use the Plutonium version as I am replicating

14 PIC 29 Intake. Choose between the Plutonium Intake that includes the Lightening Rod Conversion or Mr. Fusion PIC 30 This build will use the Plutonium version as I am replicating the original car. Paint the base Aluminum, the center mount Black and lightning rod Steel. The jumper line is Steel. The Plutonium Tube door is Yellow.

PIC 31 To install add the intake into the area between the exhausts.

PIC 32 PIC 33 The tires are assembled next. NOTE there are smaller tires for the front.

This will rough up the tread removing the gloss and giving the look of a used tire.

15 PIC 31 To install add the intake into the area between the exhausts. There is a jumper line from each side of the parts the intake sits between. Assemble the rod base and snap it into place. PIC 32 PIC 33 The tires are assembled next. NOTE there are smaller tires for the front. To give the tires a road worn look use 220 grit sandpaper, press and roll the tire tread on the paper. This will rough up the tread removing the gloss and giving the look of a used tire. Use a 50/50 wash of Flat Black and Water to highlight the hubcaps. Install the rims in the tires. There are small rims for the front and large rims for the rear. The tires are non-directional and have no markings on the sidewall. Match the front and rear tires to the proper locations and snap the rims onto the metal axles.

16 PIC 34 Slide the axles into the chassis now. This completes actual car assembly. PIC 35 PIC 36 Here is the completed front view and rear view of the car. PIC 37 This is all I had left over; the Mr. Fusion, the tube from the other version and the Barcode tag.

OVERALL IMPRESSION: I have always enjoyed building Hollywood Star Cars and this one is no different. Yes it can seem a bit basic overall but it really finishes into a nice build.

Round2/ Polar Lights has brought back this car right around the 25th anniversary of the original movie, which was one I grew up with, so this was perfect timing.

17 OVERALL IMPRESSION: I have always enjoyed building Hollywood Star Cars and this one is no different. Yes it can seem a bit basic overall but it really finishes into a nice build. For the ultra-detailer this is a great start, for the moderate builder it will look great, for the beginning builder it will be a great move into progressing your skills. Round2/ Polar Lights has brought back this car right around the 25th anniversary of the original movie, which was one I grew up with, so this was perfect timing. The build itself is almost a curbside but with detailed interior. There is no motor and very little chassis detail. The interior is not overly difficult but does require a steady hand at painting as the details you do have that deserve attention. There is so much room for excess detailing and adding your own wires you could build a contest winner easily. The rear panel is fairly detailed and will look nice, again some extra detailing and wires would go a long way. The body is accurate and the Stainless Steel finish is flawless but it seemed a bit too dark to me. The additional wires and attachments snap in fairly easy and will stay in place un-aided. Overall a fun build and one that looks good on the shelf. I have rated this as a 9 on the scale of 1 to 10. Everyone needs a Back To The Future DeLorean in their collection. Actually, Round2/ Polar Lights has all the versions available for the true BTTF fan!

18 Pic 9999 These are the three different versions that can be made from the two Polar Lights kits.

Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Mack Fire Pumper 1:32 Scale Revell Model Kit # Review

Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20150915* Mack Fire Pumper 1:32 Scale Revell Model Kit #85-1945 Review The Mack CF600 Pumper is a familiar fire truck that is still widely used in firehouses