RoR Step-by-Step Review * 1967 Corvette Convertible 1:25 Scale Revell Model Kit # Review

Transcription

1 RoR Step-by-Step Review * 1967 Corvette Convertible 1:25 Scale Revell Model Kit # Review 1967 was to be the unveiling of the third generation "MAKO" styling. However design problems showed the "new" Vette wasn't ready, so it was decided there would be one final Stingray for With very few modifications from 1966 the 1967 was born. The two biggest changes were the addition of a 435 HP 427 cubic inch engine that featured a tri-power [3x2 barrel carbs] intake and a special new big block hood featuring a unique hood scoop. With looks and performance [0-60 in 5.5 seconds and a 13.8 second 1/4 mile] the 67 Corvette really stood out. It also remained a favorite at race tracks, drag strips and stop lights. This Revell kit features all those options and more! For the Modeler: This is the Revell 1967 Corvette Convertible 2n1 kit # It is a 1:25 scale, Skill Level 3 kit with 156 parts molded in White, Chrome, Clear, and transparent red with soft vinyl tires. This is a modified reissue of Revell/Monogram # tooling and finally [and best of all] the modification was making it a 2n1 kit. The kit now features a racing version to go along with the stock version and at 156 pieces it is very detailed. I decided to do the race version of the kit for my build, but it should be noted that it also builds as a great stock replica. This kit features a choice of two hoods and two different wheel styles, plus a separate plated windshield frame. The finished dimensions are; Length 6.75, Width 2.875, Height 2.0. Covered in this Review: If you want to perfect your build; basic construction; preparing parts for better finishing; alternate assembly sequence suggestions for fit and ease of finishing; complete paint and adhesive selections and applications; engine assembly and detailing; test fitting; chassis detailing and construction; correcting instruction errors; dashboard decal detailing; interior detailing and color selection; suspension detailing; decal preparation and applications; correcting axle detail errors; version part considerations; adding realism to the center console; shifter decal orientation; a gauge location map; seam identification; bumper mount considerations; hood modifications for fit; using metalizers for correct wheel finishes; wheel pin modifications; scratch building a radio mast for realism; window installation methods; adding black washes for realistic intakes; detailed racing stripe installation instructions, are all fully examined in this pictorial 11 page, full-color Step-by-Step review in PDF format.

2 Fig 0a & 0b This is the kit s contents and box art. When you open the kit two things are immediately clear: first it is a obvious this is a modified reissue of Revell/Monogram #2968 tooling and finally [and best of all] the modification was making it a 2n1 kit. The kit now features a racing version to go along with the stock version and at 156 pieces it is very detailed. The kit listed as a skill 2 [but really could be skill 3]. It is molded in white with clear red, clear and chrome parts. I decided to do the race version of the kit for my build, but it should be noted that it also builds as a great stock replica. Fig2a & 2b As usual I started with the motor and as with the previous kit it is very detailed [parts 23 racing & 21 stock] I should note here that it says the racing engine should be aluminum but I did mine in Chevy engine red. I started by assembling the belt assembly. Attach the fan clutch [#97 chrome] to the fan [#5 Chevy engine red] then glue them to the fan belt [#51 aluminum with belts detailed in flat black] then added the alternator [use #217 or #100 for stock both chrome]. I tried using the #100 but it causes the hood not to fit right [the brace hits on the hood scoop grille]. After removing much of the underside of the scoop grille it still didn't set right, so I just installed #217. Set the fan assembly aside for now. Next glue the engine halves together [#2 left & #3 right both Chevy engine red] and add the cylinder heads [#9 left & #10 right both Chevy engine red], oil pan [#11 Chevy engine red], water pump [#13 Chevy engine red], oil filter [#4 white] and rocker covers [#8 left & #7 right both Chevy engine red]. Next add the fan belt assembly and decal #15 to the right rocker cover to the right of the oil cap [I actually missed the decal and had to go back and add it after]. Then add the fuel pump [#96 chrome], starter [#34 Gloss Black] and finally add the intake manifold bottom [#202 aluminum with distributor black]. Set the engine aside for now.

3 Fig3 Next we are making the race version so take the racing rear axle [#216 Gloss Black*] join it to the differential top [#44 Gloss Black] and then the rear spring assembly [#46 Gloss Black]. *NOTE* if the rear axle [#216] has a round tab at the back [underside] it is not supposed to be there and should be removed to look like it's stock counterpart [#47]. I ed Revell about this and they are aware. Saying it has been fixed on the next run of kits]. Now take the chassis [#60 Gloss Black] and add the cross member [#43 Gloss Black]. Next add rear shocks [#45x2 Gloss Black**] to the chassis. Finally, on the completed rear end attach the shock heads to the rear spring assembly [see fig3]. *NOTE* The instructions say to paint the shocks aluminum, but I wanted the whole chassis black. Other popular colors for the shocks would be Gloss Blue, Bright Yellow, Gloss Red or White. Depending on which shock brand you are trying to replicate. Fig4 Moving to front of the chassis I found the assembly sequences to be unclear, incorrect or making assembly harder. Being as I have built variations of this kit three times I've found this sequence to be better, quicker and easier. Start by attaching the upper A arms [#41 driver side & #40 passenger side both Gloss Black]. Then flip the chassis over and add the coil springs [#18x2 Gloss Black] and the tie rod [#38 Gloss Black] by cementing the two tabs into the corresponding holes in the chassis. Take the racing front suspension [#215 Gloss Black] and attach the steering linkage [#37 Gloss Black] by cementing the tabs on the linkage into the corresponding holes on the suspension. Give that a little while to cure and flip the chassis over and add the steering gear box into the notch on the chassis. After a minute or two turn the chassis back over and install the completed front end by cementing it to the coil springs and tie rod.

4 Fig 5 Now take the intake manifold [#201 aluminum] top and add the velocity stacks [#208x4 chrome]. Then set that aside for now. Next take the radiator [#31 Gloss Black] and add the radiator wall [#33 Gloss Black]. Then add the Fan shroud [#6 Gloss Black]. Finally take the lower radiator hose [#16 Flat Black] add decal #12 and cement to the radiator. Set it aside with the manifold for now. Fig 6 Cement the driveshaft [#52 Gloss Black] to the rear end and attach it to the transmission as you put the engine into the chassis. Next attach the exhaust headers [#203 driver side & #204 passenger side Aluminum] to engine. To hold them in place while the cement cured I used 2 pieces of 10mm masking tape [see Fig6]. Now add the inner fenders [#64 left & #63 right Gloss Black]. Next add the completed manifold. Now attach the washer bottle [#20 white with black cap and bracket] to the rear of the left inner fender and the battery [#17 Gloss Black add decal #16 to battery front] to the chassis behind the right inner fender. Finally attach the completed radiator assembly and the upper radiator hose [#12 Flat Black add decal #11]. Now take the Firewall [#36 Gloss Black] and add the brake booster [#19 Gold]. Next attach the brake master cylinder [#82 Chrome] and cement the completed firewall to the front of the interior bucket [#35 Satin Black*]. *NOTE * Paint the interior bucket to match your interior color choice. If you are doing a white interior the bucket & dashboard would still be black and only the seats & door panels would be white Fig7 For realism I added chrome paint to the center console around the shifter and on the sides [see fig8], but another technique I sometimes use is to foil the whole console and paint black back over the non chrome parts. Either way works and only depends on how bright you want the chrome [If doing a stock build I'd use the foil]. Next add the shifter [#92 Chrome**] and the parking brake [#91 chrome with the handle detailed to match interior color]. Finally add decal #10 [gear position diagram with reverse in upper left] in back of the chrome shift plate [see Fig8].

5 Fig 8 Next gather the seats [#65x2 Satin Black] & attach the seat backs [#25x2 Satin Black]. Then add them to the interior. Next add the door panels [#21 left & #22 right Satin Black with the knobs detailed in chrome]. Fig9a Next up is the dashboard [#61 Satin Black]. I started by foiling the right side [glove compartment] and the clock and radio. Next paint the center of the glove compartment white and the surrounding area black [or remove foil]. Now add decals #14, #9 and #3. Then moving to the instrument panel add chrome around the gauges and knobs. Then add the gauge decals** in order as shown in Fig9b. Next add the pedals [#32 Flat Black] and the steering column [#50 Satin Black detailed with chrome]. Finally attach the steering wheel [#49 Satin Black with chrome details] add decal #8. Cement the dash in place to complete the interior.

6 Fig9b ** The decal sheet gives both white and black face gauge options I chose black for a classic look. Fig10 & 11 Moving onto the body. It is well rendered in white plastic. However there are 8 seams [see Fig10&11] on the body that have to be taken care of, but they are easily taken off with a sanding stick or medium grit sandpaper. Also at this point I had decided to delete the front bumper, so I had to remove the front bumper tabs [see Fig11].

7 Fig12 & 13 Finally test fit the hood [especially the race hood]. I had to sand each side of the hood [maybe 1/32 ] to get it to sit flat. Next I primed it with Duplicolor white primer. I just love the Testors Custom Lacquer paints and decided to do this one in Daytona Yellow. Then cleared it with Testors lacquer clear and set it aside. Figs 13A &B For the louvers I added black wash to the louvers using a product called a Microbrush fine point [see attachment]. These are great for getting paint into small places as the micro fiber holds the paint and won't drip while being applied. To emphasis to the body lines I simply traced them with a mechanical pencil. This is a "trick" a friend told me about and my first try at it. The good news is it cleans up/wipes off easily. Fig14 Next up is the tires and wheels. I'll admit I was initially disappointed when I saw the racing wheels were not chromed, but this is actually more accurate as the rims should be aluminum and not chrome. So I went ahead and sprayed them with Model Master Aluminum Plate metalizer lacquer paint. There are two sets of tires included in the kit and both are the new soft rubber. For some reason [licensing I am guessing] only the Michelin set is lettered, so that is the set I used. Gather the disc brakes [#214x4 Aluminum plate] and add the axle pins to them. Then cement them to the rims [#209 front & #212 rear Aluminum plate] and insert them into the tires. Finally cement the inner wheels [#213x4 Aluminum plate] to rims. When I went to put the completed wheels onto the chassis I found that the holes in the front/rear ends are too big and the pins won't stay in. So I had to use [a very small amount of] superglue on the pins to hold them in place. This will still give you rolling wheels if you want them or just glue the end of the disc brake to connect the wheels if you do not want them to move.

8 Fig15 & 16 From time to time it is nice to add a little something the build and to show others simple ways to add something extra to their builds. One of these ways is to add a radio antenna. It is a quick and simple step and really adds to the realism of a build. For those that don't wish to try it just skip ahead to the next paragraph. Okay for those still here to do this I used an Xacto knife [#11 blade], pin vice drill [#76 bit], a piece of sprue [from the kit tree] and a 1 ½ inch piece of 1/32 inch wire. The Stingray Corvettes featured a power antenna and it is molded in the down position [for obvious reasons]. This actually makes it much easier as the base is already there and you just have to add the antenna. Start by removing the antenna top [nub that sticks up from the base]. I just carefully sanded it off with a sanding stick and used a silver sharpie to paint the base. Next use the tip of your X-acto knife blade [preferably a new #11] to start a hole in the center of the base. Don't push on the knife just let it make an indention so you have a start point to drill. Then I used a pin vise drill with a #76 bit to open the hole up If you don't have a drill you can open up the hole with the X-acto, but work slowly so you don't make it too big. Next cut a piece of sprue [a workable length about an inch] from one of the trees and then sand or cut one end flat. Then drill/make a 1/16 inch deep hole in that end and superglue the antenna into it. Now cut the new base down to 1/8 inch [you should have something close to Fig15]. Finally insert the antenna from underneath and cement in place. You should have something like Fig16. Fig 16a Before getting to final assembly I decided to install the windshield first. Take the windshield frame [#80 chrome] and scrape the chrome from the bottom [this will make it stay in place when assembled. Next attach the windshield [#155 clear] I used Elmer's Glue All for this as I have had good luck with it, but I also clamped it on each side using clothespins. This held it in place while the glue dried. Finally attach the rear view mirror [#93 chrome] and set it aside. If using the vent windows as I did take this time to assemble them [#103 right vent frame with #153 right vent window & #104 left vent frame with #152 left vent window]. I used Elmer's Glue All for this and assembled them while still on the tree. Fig 16b Then take hood scoop grille [#207 chrome] and give grille work a coat of black wash [flat black paint thinned 2 to 1 with thinner] and attach it to the hood [#200 body color] before putting the hood onto the body. I used a small piece of masking tape to hold the hood in place [until the chassis is installed], but be careful the tape isn't too sticky as it might take some off with when removed. A suggestion is to stick the tape to your finger a couple of times before using it on the body [this will remove some of the bite ]. Remember the tape is only to stop the hood from falling off until chassis is installed. Now take the completed interior and cement it into the body. Next install the rocker panels [#210 right & #211 left chrome], but first there are four locating pins on the back that have to be removed. I used the hobby knife for this. I then sanded the paint off the attachment point on the body and scraped the chrome from the side pipe attachment points as well. Then cement the panels in place.

9 Fig 16c First remove the tape that was holding the headers in place. Next insert the chassis into the body. I find this easier if you turn the body upside down and insert the chassis front first into it. Then work the back of the chassis in place. You can now remove the tape holding the hood in place. Next attach the side pipes [#205 left & #206 right Aluminum plate]. I used a rubber band to hold them in place while the cement cured. Fig17 Now moving on to the front. First take the grille [#105 chrome] and black wash the recesses before installation. Next attach the turn signal housings [#73x2 chrome] to the body and add the turn signal lenses [#151x2 amber]. It should be noted that Clear, Amber and white were all correct for the turn signal lenses. I omitted it from my build, but if you are adding the front bumper [#71 chrome] cement it to the attachment tabs on the body. Then turn the kit over and add the bumper supports [#27 driver side & #28 passenger side Satin Black]. The front plate can also be added if wanted. Fig18 First assemble the tail lights by taking the bezels [#87-90 chrome] and adding the taillights [#160x4 clear red]. I find it easiest to do this by using a toothpick to add a tiny amount of clear glue [I use Elmer's] to each bezel while still on the tree. Then set them aside until needed. Next for more realism I added a piece of Bare Metal Foil [1/16 x 1/2 ] to the recess where the backup light [#154 clear] sits before adding the backup light using Elmer's. Next add the taillights starting at the outside left with #87 and working right until you get to #90 on the outside right. Now attach the rear bumpers [#83 left & #84 right chrome] and add desired plate [I usually just cut the plate out and glue in place backing and all as the thickness gives it a more realistic look]. Finally add the Gas cap [#94 chrome with center detailed**] and add decal #17. ** The center of the gas cap on a 67 Corvette was either Body Color, Satin Black [my choice] or Aluminum.

10 Fig19 & 20 At this point; remove the rubber band holding the side pipes on and remove the clothespins from the windshield frame. Next attach the windshield frame by lining up the tabs on the frame and the slots on the body. If using the vent windows [#103 right & 104 left] add those. Then attach the sun visors [#23 right & #24 left Satin Black] and add the windshield wipers [#98 left & 99 right chrome]. Finally attach the door handles*** [#74 right & 75 left] and the side mirror [#95 chrome]. If you are using the convertible top [#62 satin black] attach the rear window and set it in place [should not be glued, but can be if desired]. *** Use caution removing these parts from the tree as I have broken them before. The easiest way I've found is to cut them away from the tree leaving as much of the connector as possible [about 1/8 inch] on each side. Then using the hobby knife and holding onto the part [if you hold the connector the part could go flying] carefully cut away the connectors. Fig 21 I know some of you will add the decals after painting the body and then clear over them. However I waited until last to add them as I wanted to keep them with the satin finish [not glossy], but if you do add them earlier just skip to this part then go back. Either way first add decal #17 to the hood [right in front of it actually] and decal #20 to the rear right of the trunk. The stripes on this kit are a great touch and well done, but the instructions don't do a great job telling you where to line them up. I guess that's what I am here for. Start with either decal #29 [or #30] applying it so that is 1 mm from the forward edge of the scoop [all the way] and even with side edges of the hood. Next add #28 [or #31] so that it lines up with the other decal. Then carefully work the decal around the fender and onto the side of the car. When aligned the bottom should sit on [trace] the body line and end at the door lock. Repeat these steps on the other side using the corresponding decals.

11 999 Final thoughts on this kit are easy and I may be a bit biased as I've liked all of the releases of this kit. It is not without its issues as we have discovered. The wheel pins not staying in the attachment holes was annoying as was the lack of instruction on stripe placement and the racing exhaust wasn't really easy to do [to name a few]. However the fact that this kit is extremely detailed, has a really nice decal sheet [with a lot of decals for both building options] and can be built multiple ways are big pluses. I would give this kit 8 out of 10 stars and strongly recommend it for moderate to advanced builders. Novice builders may struggle with the kit, but having this step by step review will help.