Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * 1970 Plymouth HEMI Cuda 1:25 Scale Revell Model Kit # Review

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1 Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * 1970 Plymouth HEMI Cuda 1:25 Scale Revell Model Kit # Review Review and Photos by Will Emerson In 1964 Plymouth developed the Barracuda from the Valiant platform and by 1970 it was ready for it's third generation styling. The third generation was an all new design designated the E body. The fastback model was dropped leaving only coupe and convertible options, but more engine options were also offered. The most exciting of these options was for the first time you could option the Cuda with a 426 Hemi! The Hemi was a very expensive option [only 652 were ordered], but what an option it was. The Hemi put out 426 gross HP and had that distinctive sound that told everyone what was under the hood. It's numbers were good as well 0-60 in 5.8 seconds and just under 14 seconds in the quarter mile. For the Modeler: This review is for the 1970 Plymouth HEMI Cuda 1:25 Scale Revell 2 n1 Model Kit # It is a Skill Level 3 Special Edition kit for the advanced builder. There are 149 pieces to this kit and very well laid out instructions. The pieces are molded in molded in white, chrome, clear, and transparent red with black vinyl tires and waterslide decals. This kit, as you would expect from new tooling, is free of flash and very well done. It also appears the body is much more accurate than the previous AAR versions made by Revell. There are some seams on the body that have to be cleaned up, but nothing major. The kit s finished dimensions are; Length: 7-1/2", Width: 3", Height: 2-1/8." Covered in this Review: If you want to perfect your build; basic construction; preparing parts for better finishing; alternate assembly sequence suggestions for fit and ease of finishing; complete paint and adhesive selections and applications; engine assembly and detailing; test fitting; chassis detailing and construction; correcting instruction errors; dashboard detailing; interior detailing and color selection; decal preparation and applications; version part considerations; adding authentic details to the interior and engine bay; seam identification; are all fully examined in this pictorial 9 page, full-color Step-by-Step review in PDF format.

2 [fig 1 & 1a] Here are the kit s contents and box art. [fig 2] As always I started with the engine. I must say the kit has a very nice and well detailed [19 pieces] version of the 426 Hemi. The engine assembled without any problems. The only things I will bring up are that if you are using the oil filter decals remember to make the oil filter [attached to part#26] the correct color. The instructions say to paint part #26 all Chrysler engine Red, but if you using decal #13 it would be white and black if using decal #14. I had intended to use #14 so I painted it black, but the decal ripped on me [so I just applied #13].

3 [fig 3] Also be careful applying these decals they are thin and will rip. Next I decided to leave the valve covers chrome, but should be painted flat black for a stock look. I also drilled out the valve covers as I had already decided to add a prewired distributor to the build. [fig 4] For those that want to wire it the correct firing order for a 426 Hemi is 1/8/4/3/6/5/7/2 and runs counter clockwise [see fig 4]. I've also depicted the #1 position in red.

4 [fig 5] Next we come to the body and decision time on how are you going to build it. There are two hood options: The stock Shaker hood [#2] and the custom dual scoop hood [#170]. Both are well done and great options, but I had already decided to do a mild custom version that retained a stock look as well. So I decided to use the Shaker hood and set it aside to be painted. [fig 6] Now it is time to deal with the minor seams on the body. First on the nose there are seams on both sides [highlighted in pencil in fig 6] that are easily removed with a sanding stick.

5 [fig 7] Next there are mold/seam lines on both sides of the roof that run just above the windows. For the most part these were easily sanded off with the stick, but not when it came to the front part. These ran in between the molding and would require some help to remove. fig 8] I masked off each of the moldings with masking tape to protect them during sanding [see fig 8]. I used Tamiya 6mm tape, but any masking tape will work. With all the seams taken care of the body was off to primer along with the other body pieces, firewall, hood, mirrors, chassis and bumpers. As I said I wanted to have a stock looking custom, so instead of using the custom front bumper I de-chromed [sanded] the stock front bumper to make it body color [This was also a popular option on the 1:1 cars]. After primer I decided to go with Testors Lacquer C7 Plum Crazy Purple or In Violet as it was called by Plymouth.

6 ***NOTE*** *SOME OF THESE PARTS HAVE A SLIGHT WARP. With the body and chassis and part of the interior floor* [the fender wells are body color] in paint I decided to get the interior started. With the purple the exterior I went with a white interior. I assembled the seats then painted them as well as the interior sides and rear seat satin/semi gloss white. There are silver seat decals provided that I did not use. In a MoPar white interior the dash, carpet and center console [if equipped] are satin black, so I painted those as well. When assembling the dash the instructions tell to you to paint the dash body color [ O ]. I believe this to be a misprint as the dash would be either interior color or black. Two different gauge decals are provided [black or white facings] as well as two different dash decals [black or wood grain] and a Cuda script. I used the black gauge decal which is applied to the clear gauge panel [#131] and glued to the back of the dash. Next I applied the black dash panel decal [#3], the Cuda script decal [#26 this did not stand out very well on the black dash], pedal assembly and the steering column. [fig 9] I did the steering wheel next. There were a few options here: tan ring with black spokes/center [as in the instructions], wood grain ring with black [or chrome] spokes/center, or black ring with silver [or black] spokes/center. I chose to keep it simple and do the black ring/center and the chrome silver spokes. Then I added decal #6 to the center of the steering wheel. [fig 10 ] With the body color not quite dry I decided to detail the interior sides. This is basically adding chrome [I used a silver Sharpie] to the window cranks/door handles, adding some black to the arm rests/moldings and adding decals #17. By this time the paint on the firewall was dry, so I assembled it [adding the wiper motor and brake booster/master cylinder] and cemented it in place. Next painted the shifter and I am a little surprised this wasn't chromed [flat black boot, silver/chrome shaft and gloss black or

7 white grip] I then painted the carpet flat black and then installed the shifter, seats, interior sides and then dash board. I finally added the console [there is a nice wood grain decal #7 provided that I didn't use] It was at this point I noticed the interior floor [#8] was slightly warped. I immediately checked my other kit, but that one was fine [so I would recommend checking it before hand]. [fig 11] At this point I added the dual horns to fender well and set the interior aside for now. Then I took the now dry body and applied Bare Metal foil around the windows. Next I added the front and rear windows using Elmer's Glue all. It should be noted here that while the windows fit nicely they do not give you very much extra space to glue them in [I really recommend a clear drying glue like Elmer's for this]. I then installed the sun visors, rear view mirror and the dome light. It doesn't mention this in the instructions but don't forget to paint the center of the dome light white. Also it doesn't tell you to, but don't forget to detail the taillights before installing [see above]. The instructions have you paint the radiator wall semi gloss black [which I did] and install it to the front of the interior floor. However for doing a stock build every picture I could find had it painted body color. With the radiator wall in place I took the completed interior and installed it into the body. This is a tight fit, but working carefully fits nicely. I also installed the hood latch plate [#49] at this time. If your interior floor is slightly warped like mine I glued the three other tabs in place and let them dry. Then once they were dry I simply glued the last side and clamped it in place with a small C clamp, but only tighten it enough to hold the tab in place [I also put a small gauze pad between the clamp and the body to protect the paint]. [fig 12] With that done I turned my attention to the chassis [It should be noted here that the instructions say to paint the chassis flat black, but for a truly stock or show room look it should be body color]. I attached the steering gear box and then installed the completed motor. Then I glued the fan shroud to the radiator and installed it. Don't forget to connect the lower radiator hose to the radiator at this point. Now is the time to

8 decide on ride height. The kit gives you two height choices and I chose the lowered [custom] height. I glued the differential cover on the rear end, attached the custom rear leaf springs, shocks, and drive shaft then set it aside to cure. I then painted up the exhaust [steel pipes and aluminum mufflers] and installed it. Now install the completed rear end assembly. Then I attached the chassis to the body. I put together the front end using the custom front suspension adding the tire rod, sway bar and shocks, then installed it. Next I glued the exhaust tips into the rear body pan and installed it. [fig 13] Moving on to the grille they give you two choices [stock or custom]. I used the stock one to keep with the mild custom theme. Also it says to paint the stock grille metallic Silver [which I did], but flat black is also an option [though mostly on the AAR Cuda]. I painted the recessed grille sections flat black with a fine detail brush [but honestly making these separate parts would've been a great idea] and installed the chrome headlight buckets [a welcomed addition for this builder]. Then using Elmer's I added the headlights and turn signals. Lastly I added decal #18 to the left grille before installing the grille. [fig 14] Turning to the wheels and tires next I decided to go with the kit custom wheels, but it should be noted the stock wheels are very well done. I used an ultra fine black Sharpie to detail the wheels then put them into the tires. I put the pins into the pin retainers and cemented those to the wheels. I cemented the disc brakes to the front end and drum brakes to the rear end. A four wheel disc option would've been nice for the custom version, but once I installed the wheels they looked good.

9 [fig 15] Next I installed the top radiator hose, heater hose, washer bottle and battery under the hood. I painted my battery flat black with red caps and steel terminals to match the stock pictures I found [I also added the positive battery cables]. I also used an Aqua Sharpie on the inside of the washer bottle to simulate the washer fluid [just don't color it too much]. Since I m using the Shaker hood I painted the Shaker scoop satin black [done nicely as four separate pieces]. Then assembled and installed it. Finally I added decals #20 to each side of the scoop and decal #11 to the radiator wall. [fig 16] I then cemented the hood pins into the Shaker hood. I used Elmer's for this to make sure no glue ruined the paint. Finally I glued the hinges on and installed the hood. At this point all that is left to install are the bumpers, so I glued them in place and added the license plates. Lastly I applied the pair of white HEMI hockey stick decals [to the rear quarter panels] and the Barracuda script #25 to the front quarter panel. This kit was fun to put together despite the few little issues stated above. With that said I am going to give this kit 9 out of 10 stars. This is definitely a great kit to build.