Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Dodge Raminator Monster Truck 1:24 Scale Lindberg Model Kit #73014 Review

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1 Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Dodge Raminator Monster Truck 1:24 Scale Lindberg Model Kit #73014 Review The Raminator is a monster truck that races on the Special Events, Monster Nationals, and Checkered Flag Promotions tours. It is primarily driven by Mark Hall and sponsored by Dodge. The team was, along with Team Bigfoot, one of the most high profile teams to not run in the USHRA, although they did compete in several Monster Jam events in Seeing the success the Halls were having as privateers in the monster truck industry, Dodge decided to return to corporate sponsorship of monster truck racing after a nearly six year hiatus (Dodge had formerly sponsored Fred Shafer's Bear Foot team from ). After a year of scouting and preparations in 2001, the Dodge division of Daimler-Chrysler signed a three year deal with the Halls. Hall Brother s Racing debuted the first Dodge Raminator truck at a USHRA event in the Pontiac Silverdome in January The truck ran one more weekend with USHRA, then ceased to compete at any more USHRA events. This would subsequently gain strong support from fans who disagree with Clear Channel Entertainment's spectacle-oriented shows. The team would return to Monster Jam in Raminator and Rammunition were both among the most feared opponents in racing. The factory backing had allowed for significant performance gains, especially concerning the engine. The team is especially notable for ending Bigfoot's dominance in ProMT and the Special Events series, where the Ford had previously been untouchable. The horsepower advantage had also translated into high-flying freestyles, although the drivers were markedly more conservative than their Monster Jam counterparts. However, as the Halls have often criticized the destructive nature of USHRA events, and are quick to point out how few rollovers they have had, their conservativism is a point of pride for the team. As a result, the team is tremendously popular with fans who dislike Monster Jam, particularly those who would like to see a racingexclusive series.

2 For the Modeler: This review covers the New Release of the Lindberg Dodge Raminator Monster Truck kit molded in 1/24 scale. This was an all-new molding from Lindberg with a Sister-Kit of the Rammunition which is the same kit with different decals. The box is dated 2007 and the kit is still available in some hobby stores and the secondary market, it is no longer available on the inventory of Round2 as an active kit release. Lindberg rated this as a Skill Level 3 for advanced builders. In the box you get a highly detailed kit much unlike the Lindberg of old. This kit has over 125 parts molded in White, Clear and a soft Vinyl tire. The decals are waterslide and have a crisp bright color. The instruction book has large well laid out drawings and is very easy to follow. The build starts with a detailed motor. The tube frame requires complete assembly unlike most monster trucks kits on the market today. The body is one piece and can easily be painted and decaled last, leaving little chance of damage from handling. The decal sheet has the panels on it to cover the sides, roof and hood. This is a monster of a monster truck. The shelf space it requires is Length: 10, Width: 5, Height: 6. BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the build YOU want! Unless you are building a Factory Stock or a Replica your choices of color and build options are completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no Wrong way to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly. PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the Original 2007 Release version. Unless otherwise stated I use Model Master Liquid Cement for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer s White Glue. Paints consist of Tamiya Acrylic bottle paints and different brands of Rattle can spray paints. Many parts are finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than a half an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection.

3 PIC 2 PIC 3 Here are the decals for this build. The quality is very high and color register is good. There is a small carrier around each decal. These decals float easily and will set quickly. Normally it is preferable to use a setting solution to help move the decals in place on your build and to allow extra time to place them. I personally have found Microscale Industries products to be the most compatible with all the different manufacturers of decals. PIC 4 PIC 5 The motor assembly consists of the first ten steps in the instructions sheet. Start with building parts of the blower and the block prior to painting. Assemble the snorkel. Assemble the blower. Assemble the block halves and add the heads and valve covers. Add the motor front and belt shield. Paint the motor, blower and snorkel Aluminum. The snorkel blanket is Flat Black and the headers are Steel. The belt is Rubber with Aluminum pulleys. The oil filler tubes are Flat Black. Fuel pump is Flat Black. Lower drive unit is Flat Black. Hydraulic gear pump is Aluminum as is the upper blower hydraulic unit. The pulley lock is Flat Black. The coil is Flat Black. The mount bar is Black.

4 PIC 6 Install the snorkel onto the blower and the blower to the block. Add the oil filler tubes. Add the lower drive unit, belt, both hydraulic units. Pulley lock and fuel pump and coil. Install the mount bar. PIC 7 OPTIONAL: I wanted to do a little extra detail so I will wire this motor. I used a prewired distributor and coil for this add on. PIC 8 While there are many different brands I use home-made ones that I have. First cut off the existing distributor and drill out the hole for the shaft and install it with superglue. Drill out the locations on the valve covers. Cut a small part of the Black wire for boots and slide it on each wire. Slide each wire into place with the boot at the hole to make it look correct. Superglue all the wires in place.

5 PIC 9 PIC 10 Press the wires down to make them form the look and shape of real wires and the motor can be set aside for now. PIC 11 The cockpit is completed now. PIC 12 Note the Copyright text that must be scraped off of the bottom of the interior plate prior to painting. Paint the plate Flat Black. The seat base, seat and controls are painted Flat Black and detailed with Aluminum controls and a Red knob. The pedals are Aluminum with a Black gas pedal. The fire extinguishers are Red and Aluminum with Black nozzles and mounts.

6 PIC 13 Install the three fire extinguishers. Add the pedals. Install the seat. PIC 14 PIC 15 The batteries, top and frame are Black. Paint one line Red and the battery connectors Steel. Attach the batteries to the frame and install the top. PIC 16 Paint the frame Black. The radio, dash, tach, steering column and wheel are also Flat Black.

7 PIC 17 PIC 18 Detail the instruments on the dash Aluminum with White and Black. The radio has a Silver dial, the tach is White with Black. PIC 19 Install the radio and dash. Add the tach. The wheel has Aluminum spokes and is installed on the steering column. The column is installed on the frame.

8 PIC 20 PIC 21 The frame rail has the pump installed on it and painted Black. The fan is Flat Black and the radiator Aluminum. Install the radiator and fan. PIC 22 Paint the frame Black and the gauges black. PIC 23 Install the frame on one side of the glass and the gauges on the other so the gauges are on the outside passenger side.

9 PIC 24 PIC 25 Start the main chassis assembly. NOTE: Pay close attention to the location of all of the pins and holes for the connections of all of the parts. Everything lines up and is proper if you take your time in the assembly now. Paint all of the parts Black. Add the front and rear lower bars and the front main X bar. Use the X bar with the radiator for the rear. Add the small pump to the frame. PIC 26 Assemble the fuel cell and paint it Aluminum with a Steel cap and Black mount bars.

10 PIC 27 The cross members are Black as is the frame. The electronics are Aluminum. Start at the front: add the fuel cell, cross member, motor, electronics, batteries and outer frame. PIC 28 This step requires two cross members painted black and will be added to the already assembled interior. PIC 29 Add the cross members place. Add the frame. Add the interior pan in place. Add the back wall in place. in

11 PIC 30 Continue with the assembly of the interior and drive train. PIC 31 Paint the interior panels Flat Black. The drivetrain is Aluminum. Assemble the transfer case and paint it Aluminum with a Black frame bar. The cross member and skid plate are Black. Install the floor plate and front plate. Install the driveshaft and transfer case. Add the cross member and skid plate.

12 PIC 32 Finish the chassis assembly. PIC 33 Assemble the side frame and outer frame and add the pump. Paint this and the cross members Black. Line up all of the attachments and cross members on the chassis and attach the frame to the already assembled unit. Add the front cross member installing that to the steering column. Add the rear cross member and coil. This completes the main assembly of the chassis frame.

13 PIC 34 PIC 35 The frame end is added. Paint both parts Black. Add the sway bar to the frame. Install the frame end onto the end of the frame. PIC 36 PIC 37 The body support is painted Black and installed. Add the lower frame to the chassis and the body support to the lower frame and radiator support. PIC 38 PIC 39 The front frame support is finished. Assemble and paint the support sides cross bar and top frame. The 2 suspension supports and frame support are Black and installed on the front of the frame.

14 PIC 40 Assemble and paint the front suspension. PIC 41 The axle halves and tie rod unit is assembled. Add the driveshaft and clutch brake. Add the torsion bars. Paint the unit Black and the cage Aluminum. Install the cage over the driveshaft onto the axle. Use Superglue and install the suspension onto the chassis in place attaching the driveshaft to the transfer case and the axle to the frame. The torsion bars go to the frame.

15 PIC 42 Assemble and paint the rear suspension. PIC 43 The axle halves and tie rod unit is assembled. Add the driveshaft and clutch brake. Add the torsion bars. Paint the unit Black and the cage Aluminum. Install the cage over the driveshaft onto the axle. Use Superglue and install the suspension onto the chassis in place attaching the driveshaft to the transfer case and the axle to the frame. The torsion bars go to the frame. Paint the cross member and add that to the frame by the transfer case.

16 PIC 44 PIC 45 Paint the shock towers Chrome with Black. The long towers are Rear and the short one are in front. Install the shocks into place. PIC 46 PIC 47 The splash guards need to have the sponsor logo decals applied and then coated with Pledge Floor Care. Install the splash guards on to the frame.

17 PIC 48 PIC 49 The tires are assembled now. NOTE the tires are DIRECTIONAL. Paint the rims Red. The outer rings are Yellow with Red inner area. The hubs are Chrome. Install a rim in each tire note the direction so you have two going in each direction. Add the outer rings to each side of the rims. Add the hubs inside the rim. PIC 50 Snap the tires onto the axles so the tire treads go forward. PIC 51 The rolling chassis is now completed.

18 PIC 52 Install the rear bumper on to the body. Wet sand the body with 800 grit paper and take note of any mold lines or blemishes and repair them at this time. My body was not in need of anything more than sanding and a few spots with minor lines. Wash the body and let it dry. PIC 53 Using a good quality Primer coat the inside and outside of the body completely. After it dries, wet sand the body again with 1000 grit paper to remove any blemishes and smooth out the surface. Wash and let dry. PIC 54 This body was painted with a custom mix of Red PPG paint that I had on hand. You could use any similar shade of red to replicate the original. Paint the inside and outside of the body completely as the inside will show when finished.

19 PIC 55 Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it Floats loosely on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The purpose is to soften the decals to help them conform to the contours of the body and lay smooth. To apply Micro Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the part where you are going to apply the decal. Next apply the decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal. Blot the decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel so as not to move it and allow it to dry. For a tougher decals apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to the decal. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly work any creases or blemishes in the decal out with a Q-tip or damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to damage the decal. A second coat of Micro-Sol can be added if needed. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. Let the decals cure at least overnight before applying your clear coat.

20 PIC 56 PIC 57 OPTIONAL: Prior to assembly I want to give the glass a thinner crisper look. I will dip the parts into Pledge Floor Care. When applied to both side of a piece of clear polystyrene, it will make glass appear thinner and clearer. It will help to hide minor scratches also. Simply pour some Pledge into a small container and dip your clear glass into it. It will self-level and make the part look clearer. Place the parts on a sheet of paper towel to cure, the paper towel will draw out the excess Pledge and Wick it off the parts so it does not accumulate at the edges leaving an unwanted build up. After you dip the part, be sure to place a cover over it to prevent dust from collecting on it.

21 PIC 58 PIC 59 Install the windshield from the outside with Elmer s Glue. Install the Headlights also. The tail lights are painted Clear Red on the inside and installed on the back with Elmer s Glue. PIC 60 PIC 61 Paint the grille Flat Black with the raised area of the grille dry-brushed Aluminum. Install that from the inside. PIC 62 Slide the body onto the chassis without glue. It sets in place and will line up on pins.

22 PIC 63 PIC 64 A completed shot of the front and rear of the truck.

23 OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: Lindberg kits have been around for years and with earlier kits being of average quality. The newer releases break that mold! For the monster truck builders there are not many choices, mostly AMT Re-pops based on the old, Bigfoot or USA 1 kits. It is great to see an all new mold, and one with this quality is even better. The motor is not high on the parts count or details but looks good in the truck. Some aftermarket wiring and hydraulic hoses would do wonders here with little effort. The cockpit is typical of the monster trucks today. This is very simplistic and does not include seat belts or much safety equipment. Again some aftermarket touches brings this to Contest Quality fast. Where this build shines is the chassis. The frame is a multiple part unit that is very complex but builds quite easily. Unlike the competition most of the chassis is done in individual parts and must be assembled in stages. Fit was good and there were no major issues to be found with the overall building of the chassis. Although painting is a pain as you have to paint each part prior to assembly and this does leave room for errors. The body is one piece aside from the rear bumper which can be attached before painting. The decals were difficult to adhere as they were a tad thick and did require some extra work and time with Micro Sol setting solution. While not an issue for an advanced builder, a novice may have problems with the full sheet decals and getting them to lay down without wrinkles. The build is not a simple throw together monster truck like most of the competition s kits. Lindberg did a great job putting out a quality product. I would have liked to have seen thinner decals and more details on the cockpit and motor but otherwise it was a top notch build. Based on the finished build I give this an 8.5 on a scale of 1 to 10.