Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * 1966 Chevy Fleetside Pickup Truck 1:25 Scale Revell Model Kit # Review

Transcription

1 Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * 1966 Chevy Fleetside Pickup Truck 1:25 Scale Revell Model Kit # Review The first Chevrolet pickup truck came out in 1924, through in-house designs but did not appear until From 1957, trucks were available from the factory as 4-wheel drive, and the new class scheme would make this known. A C in front of the series number would indicate 2-wheel rear drive while a K would denote 4-wheel drive. Actual badging on trucks still carried the series name system from the previous generation. The 1960 model year introduced a new body style of light pick-up truck that featured many firsts. Most important of these were a drop-center ladder frame, allowing the cab to sit lower and independent front suspension, giving an almost car-like ride in a truck. Also new for 1960 was a new designation system for trucks made by GM. Gone was the 3100, 3200, and 3600 designations for short 1/2, long 1/2 and 3/4-ton models. Instead, a new scheme would assign a 10, 20, or 30 for 1/2, 3/4, and 1-ton models. The cab was changed for 1964, with elimination of the "wraparound" windshield and a new front grille design, along with various interior changes. Air conditioning and a 327 V8 came in A new base engine finished the model in 1966 with a 250 c.i.d Inline Six. For the Modeler: This review covers the Revell release of the 66 Fleetside Pickup in 1/25 scale. This is Kit # in the current catalog. The kit represents a 1966 version and is a New Release for Revell but the kit is a Re-package of the 1964 and 1965 kits. The Copyright on the parts is Under Revell s new Revell of Germany Skill Ratings on US kits this is a Skill Level 4. The kit has 112 parts and comes molded in White, Chrome, Clear and Clear Red with Vinyl tires. You get Waterslide decals and the typical book format instructions. This build has only the V8 engine option and it is quite detailed. The interior is multiple parts with dash decals and seat decals. The chassis is detailed and the suspension is all separate multiple parts. The body is multiple parts and must be partially assembled for painting. The tires are Tampo-print wide Whitewalls. This kit only has parts for a stock build without options for customization. Overall dimensions are: Length: 7-5/8, Width: 3, Height 2-1/2.

2 BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the build YOU want! Unless you are building a Factory Stock or a Replica your choices of color and build options are completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no Wrong way to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly. PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the Trucks version. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer s White Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel or Tamiya Acrylic bottle paints and different brands of Rattle can spray paints. Many parts are finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than a half an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion.

3 Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection. PIC 2 PIC 3 Here are the decals for this build. The quality is very high and color registry is good. There is a small carrier around each decal. These decals float easily and will set quickly. Normally it is preferable to use a setting solution to help move the decals in place on your build and to allow extra time to place them. I personally have found Microscale Industries products to be the most compatible with all the different manufacturers of decals. PIC 4 Assemble most of the motor prior to paint. The block, heads, valve covers, intake, oil filler tube, timing cover and oil pan are installed. The block is Orange with an Aluminum transmission. The starter is Black with a Copper solenoid. The oil filter is Blue. I used Slixx Decals Oil Filter decals for details on the oil filter. The fan is Black with Flat Black belt. The alternator is Aluminum. The carb is Copper. Install these parts.

4 PIC 5 Paint the manifolds Steel. I did not use the kit supplied distributor or coil. PIC 6 OPTIONAL: I wanted to do a little extra detail so I will wire this motor. I used a prewired distributor and coil for this add on. While there are many different brands I use home-made ones that I have. Using a distributor wiring diagram I will wire the motor. First drill out the hole for the shaft and install it with superglue. Drill out the locations on the heads. Cut a small part of the Black wire for boots and slide it on each wire. Match the wires up to the diagram and cut to fit. PIC 7 Slide each wire into place with the boot at the hole to make it look correct. Superglue all the wires in place. Add the coil to the center wire with it cut to fit sitting it on the motor.

5 PIC 8 PIC 9 Add the manifolds.

6 PIC 10 PIC 11 Start the interior. I painted mine Flat Tan. Paint the floor and underside of the floor pan Flat Black. Paint the door panels and detail the cranks and latches with Silver. The seat is Tan with DECAL 17 and 18. The pedals are Black. Install the seat, pedals and door panels. To get these seat cover decals to conform to the contours of the seat you ll need to use several coats of decal setting solution. There s a full explanation on usage in the section below that explains decal preparation and installation that applies here as well. PIC 12 Assemble the parts to build the dash and steering column. PIC 13 The dash and column are Tan. DECALS 8, 9 and 10 go on the dash and the rest is Silver highlights. The shifters are Silver and Black. The wheel is Silver and Black. Add the Clear instrument panel.

7 PIC 14 Install the wheel onto the column and the column to the dash. Install the dash into the interior. PIC 15 PIC 16 NOTE: the body needs to be assembled prior to painting. This is a multiple step process in the instructions. We will go back later and add the details and trim after paint. But to ease painting and benefit the final look, assemble the cab now and paint it as a unit. Add the over-roof. Add the firewall and cab back. Add the front header panel. The radiator will be painted and installed later.

8 PIC 17 PIC 18 Assemble the bed rear corners and glue the tail gate in place. PIC 19 PIC 20 Assemble the hood sides and front on to the top. NOTE: in PIC 20 the hood does not fit properly. This has been an issue with this kit for the lifespan of the kit in previous releases. To repair it you need to sand and fit the sides slowly and test fit the hood often until you get the proper fitment. For this build I left the hood as released by Revell. PIC 21 Wet sand all of the body parts with 800 grit paper and wash them thoroughly. When fully dried, use a high quality Primer and paint the inside and outside of the cab, hood, and bed with Primer.

9 PIC 22 PIC 23 This is a Two-tone paint job. The roof is White with the remainder of the body done in Green. Paint the White first on just the roof and pillars down to the tops of the doors. Using 3M Vinyl Fineline tape, mask off the paint line. Cover the remainder of the roof with a Low-tack masking tape. Sand the cab area again to smooth it out. PIC 24 PIC 25 For this paint job I will be using Gravity Colors Hobby Paint. Bullitt Highland Green is the color name and it is Item #GC-225. This is a MULTIPLE STAGE paint color meaning there is a Base color and then the Clear Coat. Gravity is an airbrush ready product that is automotive quality paints produced in model car sized pigments. The metal flakes and pearls are more correctly sized than using just automotive paint. Gravity sprays very smoothly from the airbrush and lays very nice. It is quite easy to get a perfect paintjob with their product. It does not orange peel like some of the other brands that dry too fast. But this is a fast dry product and can be worked with in a reasonable time. Their site is: PIC 26 Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you

10 have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it Floats loosely on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The purpose is to soften the decals to help them conform to the contours of the body and lay smooth. To apply Micro Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the part where you are going to apply the decal. Next apply the decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal. Blot the decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel so as not to move it and allow it to dry. For a tougher decals apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to the decal. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly work any creases or blemishes in the decal out with a Q-tip or damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to damage the decal. A second coat of Micro-Sol can be added if needed. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. Let the decals cure at least overnight before applying your clear coat. PIC 27 PIC 28 OPTIONAL: Bare Metal Foil Application is a little on the tricky side if not done slowly. Here is a method I use: It is VERY IMPORTANT that you use a BRAND NEW #11 blade in your hobby knife, and keep a few extras handy as all you are using is the very end of the tip point. From the foil sheet cut a strip twice the width and about ¼ inch longer than the detail you intend to cover using a sharp set of regular scissors. I then peel the foil off of the backer sheet and lightly lay it on the detail area. Using my finger I will slowly slide along the detail area smoothing the foil lightly, then a second time more firmly to press it into place. Using a Q-Tip I burnish the foil onto the detail area only. I then use a toothpick that has been tapped on the table to dull the tip and run that along the outside edge of the details I intend to cut the foil around. After the detail area is defined and the foil is smooth and burnished on I slowly cut around the edge with the hobby knife. If you feel the knife snag or grab the foil CHANGE THE BLADE, it will rip your foil very easily. Now you can strip all excess foil away. You can peel the excess loose leaving just your detailed part covered. I then burnish it again with a Q-Tip. You can do foil work in sections as it is thin enough that when burnished it will mold itself into looking like one piece. Most people Bare Metal Foil AFTER clear coating the car, I prefer to clear coat over the foil so it will never move as my cars tend to get handled. PIC 29 OPTIONAL: Prior to assembly I want to give the glass a thinner crisper look. I will dip the parts into Pledge Floor Care. When applied to both side of a piece of clear polystyrene, it will make glass appear thinner and clearer. It will help to hide minor scratches also. Simply pour some Pledge into a small container and dip your clear glass into it. It will self-level and make the part look clearer. Place the parts on a sheet of paper towel to cure, the paper towel will draw out the excess Pledge and Wick it off the parts so it does not accumulate at the edges leaving an unwanted build up. After you dip the part, be sure to place a cover over it to prevent dust from collecting on it.

11 PIC 30 Paint the radiator Flat Black as well as the shroud. Assemble the shroud onto the radiator and insert that into the cab. Use a black marking pen around the window to replicate the rubber trim. PIC 31 Install the glass into the cab with White Glue. PIC 32 Paint the battery Black with Steel posts. The brake booster is Black with a Steel master cylinder. The overflow tank is White with a Black cap. The emblems are Red with Black.

12 PIC 33 Attach the door handles, emblems and gas cap with Superglue. Install the battery, assemble and install the brake booster and master cylinder and add the overflow tank. PIC 34 Install the interior into the cab. If this is a contest build just scrape off the copyright script with a blade and smooth it over with some sandpaper.

13 PIC 35 OPTIONAL: License Plates: I decided to do custom license plates and personalize this kit a little. You can go to and create any custom plate you want for any State. Also, you can search photos online for designer license plates. You can save the photo and resize it to fit a model. Just print it on photo paper and you have a plate of your own. To print your plate for 1/25 or 1/24 scale kit, open your photo program and crop the plate so you just have the plate only. Re-size the image size to make the Width.5 inches and make sure CONSTRAIN PROPORTIONS is on. Use 300 DPI for a crisp print. Save that and Print it on White Photo paper printing on High Quality Print Setting. You now have a proper sized plate to glue on your car. I used the kit supplied plate even though it says 1964 because it was the same color in 66. PIC 36 PIC 37 Paint the chains Flat Black with Steel hasps and the tag holder Flat Black. Install the tail and backup lights with Elmer s Glue. Add the hasps to the tailgate. Add the tag to the tag holder and glue that in place.

14 PIC 38 Paint the chassis parts Flat Black, the chassis, front and rear suspension, tire mount, tie rods and sway bar. Assemble and paint the rim Flat Black. The exhaust is Steel with an Aluminum muffler. The shocks are Red. PIC 39 Attach the tie rods to the front suspensions and install that to the chassis with the front shocks. Add the exhaust. Install the rear suspension and shocks and sway bar. Assemble the tire and rim onto the tire holder and attach that to the chassis. Attach the rear bumper in place. PIC 40 PIC 41 Paint the driveshaft Gunmetal and install that with the motor in place in the chassis.

15 PIC 42 PIC 43 To give the tires a used look press and roll the tread on a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper. This will rough up the tire removing the smooth glossy surface. Assemble the rim fronts and backs and paint them Black. Add the hubcap. The tires are non-directional so location is not important. Add the rims to the tires either White or Black wall out. PIC 44 PIC 45 Snap a tire on to each axle.

16 PIC 46 The rolling chassis is completed. PIC 47 Install the cab in place and add the bed to the chassis. The decal for the bed is really nice and looks great. Just remember to use some setting solution on it for good conformance. PIC 48 Paint the heater and air cleaner Black. The hood latch and hoses are Flat Black.

17 PIC 49 Install the lower and upper hoses from the radiator to the motor. Add the hood latch in place. DECAL 5 goes on the heater and it is installed. DECAL 6 goes on the air cleaner and it is installed. Add the wipers and mirrors with Superglue. PIC 50 The front end is completed by using a wash of 50/50 Flat Black and thinner in the grille and installing the headlights.

18 PIC 50 PIC 51 The front end is completed by using a wash of 50/50 Flat Black and thinner in the grille and installing the headlights. Add the grille and bumper to the front end and slide the hood in place. PIC 52 The rear is already completed.

19 OVERALL: This build overall has a good fit and finish and the details are nice. The motor looks good and with some aftermarket parts can be nicely detailed. The chassis is basic but looks good. The lines were straight and the fit was correct without any tweaking. The interior is basic but decals help the look of the dash greatly. Fit of the interior is not the best but it does go together in the truck good. The body is straight and aside from the poor hood design is nice. The hood has been a complaint with every release of this kit in all incarnations. Revell has done a good job with releasing this as a Stock build and it has nothing extra to customize it. We may see this later as a Street version with custom parts? Overall the build went together quite easily and there were no issues. Fit and finish was good and the built kit is a nice shelf sitter. With some basic work and detailing you can have a contest quality kit quite easily. On a scale of 1 to 10 I give this an 8.5.