MARDER II ENGINE COMPARTMENT
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- Denis Watkins
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1 TWS MARDER II ENGINE COMPARTMENT Congratulations on purchasing one of the finer aftermarket resin conversion sets available. This kit was Mastered by Tom Kondziolka. This kit is intended to be used in Dragon s Marder II kit (#6262) THE PARTS 1. Eng. cmpt. Floor 2. Right side wall 3. Eng cmpt vent 4. Left side wall 5. Front wall 6. Mid wall 7. Radiator assy. 8. Fan assy. 9. Rear air deflector 10. Wall support 11. Brake air cooling hose (2ea) 12. Upper radiator hose 13. Lower radiator hose 14. Coolant reservoir 15. Rear vent wall 15A,B,C. Baffles 15D Exhaust Pipe 16. Engine 17. Fan Belt w/ Pulleys 20. Carburetor w/ hose 23. Radiator Vent Closed 18. Generator Belt w/ Pulleys 21. Manifold to muffler pipe 24. Radiator Vent Open 19. Water Pump Belt w/ Pulleys 22. Internal Wall Replacement Please look over these instructions, Dragon s instructions, and the parts before beginning assembly. The part numbers are clearly marked on the casting blocks. We recommend using a warm soapy water solution or commercially available mold release cleaner to clean the parts of any residual mold release agent. Failure to do this may cause problems gluing and/or painting the resin parts. When beginning the assembly please check the fit of the parts BEFORE gluing them together as some sanding or trimming may be needed for a clean fit. You may also want to assemble this kit in subassemblies to facilitate ease of painting. Now lets get that superglue out and get started. WATCH THOSE FINGERS! Assembly 1. The first step will be getting the Dragon parts ready to accept the engine compartment floor and sidewalls. Referencing figures 1 and 2 on the next page you will need to remove the last two wall supports and locating tabs from Dragon part Z (lower hull tub) There s a total of 4 to be removed. 2. Next referencing figures 3 and 4 we ll modify Dragon part A14 by removing the aft portion.
2 REMOVE REMOVE Fig. 1 Part Z before Fig. 2 Part Z after Fig. 3 Part A14 before Fig. 4 Part A14 after 3. Next, depending on your style of building, we recommend assembling the kit per Dragon instructions from steps 1 through 4. DO NOT completely attach the lower compartment floor (Part A14) until you have test fitted the floor assembly with TWS Parts 1,2 and 4 dry fitted. Once you are satisfied everything will sit flat and flush then go ahead and secure Dragon part A14. See figure 5. 2
3 4. Now we will begin to install the engine compartment. First install TWS part 1 engine compartment floor. Once you have glued this in place install left side wall 4. See figure 6. NOTE: Part 4 will be slightly above the lower hull. DO NOT!! trim flush with the lower hull. Once the upper hull is installed this raised portion sits flush against the upper hull and completes the compartment. You may need to sand a little to make sure the upper hull sits flush with the lower hull A14 Fig. 5 Fig Now we will need to modify Dragon part A23. The outside of the engine compartment needs to be opened up for a vent. Using the measurements in figure 7 carefully cut the opening. I recommend that you cut this opening a little small. Once you are satisfied with the initial opening, check the fit of part 3 to the inside of part A23. There should be no gaps around the vent box. The top of the box opens towards the top of the compartment so you will see a gap there. If there are some small gaps they are easily filled with putty or gap filling superglue. If you are satisfied with the fit of part 3 tack it to part A23 with a little superglue in the lower corners. See figures 8 and 9 on next page. Now take TWS part 2 (right sidewall) and see how it fits to the bottom of part 3. You may have to do a little sanding to get this to fit snug. It should fit snug enough that you will be able to slide the assembly onto the lower hull and be able to see how the entire assembly fits. If you are satisfied that everything fits, remove part 2 and glue it to the lower hull, and run a small bead of super glue along the bottom of part 3 to completely secure it to part A23. See figures 10 and 11 on the next page. WHEW!! Now that was a lot of fun. Go get yourself a drink and take a little break. The next step will complete the compartment vent installation. 3
4 1/8 FWD 3/32 1/8 Fig.7 1 1/8 1/16 NOTE: The upper taper will taper down to 1/16 at the aft end. You should have a.030 height at the aft end A23 Fig. 8 3 Fig. 9 Part 3 installed 3 2 Fig. 10 Part 3 Installed Fig. 11 Checking fit of part 2 to part 3. Part 2 may need to be sanded to allow upper hull to fit flush against lower hull 4
5 6. Next we need to fabricate the guards that went over the vent opening. Using.010 rod you will need to cut 2 pieces 11/16 long, 1 piece 9/16 long and one piece 3/16 long. Now the grate bars were flattened on the ends and welded to the hull. So using the tool of your choice flatten the ends so they taper from round to flat. Once that is done you will first glue the 3/16 piece in front of the second vent divider on part 3, next glue the 11/16 pieces from the mid divider forwards and then the 9/16 from the mid divider aft. See figure 12 to see how the assembly should look. 9/16 11/16 3/16 Fig. 12 For a little extra detail once the assembly is dry use a little putty to make weld beads around the flattened ends. 7. Next install part 10 hull support to the left end of part A14. Now install parts 11 brake cooling hoses at the two lightening holes in part 10 and they will both go over the wheel axle. See figure 13. Next install part 9 air deflector between the weld beads on the aft wall and left side wall. See figure 14 on the next page Fig. 13 5
6 9 Weld Beads Fig Now we ll begin to assemble the compartment front and mid walls. Using parts 5 & 6 you will glue part 6 at a 90deg angle to part 5 where the opening on part six matches the indentation on part 5. See figures 15 & 16. Once you have these parts glued together you can now install them to the floor section. Part 5 will slide up to the floor angle and the tab on the right sidewall. See figure 16. Fig Engine drive shaft engagement point Fig. 15 Floor Angles 9. Now it s time to get the engine (16) ready to install. First after carefully removing parts 18 & 19 you will first glue part 19 to the engine. Next glue part 18 between the lower pulley and the generator to the right side of the engine. See figures 17 & 18. After this is complete, install the engine onto the four mounting points and engage the drive shaft connection at the front wall. See figure Fig. 17 Fig
7 10. Next install the radiator assembly (7) at the angled floor support and tab on the right wall. See figure 19. The angled bracket on the radiator assembly is on the bottom facing into the engine area. Now install the coolant reservoir (14) on the tab on the forward compartment wall. Next install the lower radiator hose (13) from the side of the engine to the lower part of the radiator. See figure 20. The flattened end of the hose goes into the tabs on the radiator. Temporarily tack the upper radiator hose (14) from the coolant tank to the top of the radiator. Once again the flattened end of the hose goes to the tab on top of the radiator. 14 Fig Upper radiator hose goes between these two points 13 7 Fig Wall Tab 12. Next we will need to assemble the baffle plate parts 15, 15A,B,C and D. You will note the weld beads for the three baffle plates and the exhaust pipe on part 15. Reference figure 21 for assembly. You will also need to drill out the exhaust pipe on part 15 with a #53 drill bit. Once the baffle plate is assembled then dry fit into place checking the fit of part 21 to the engine exhaust manifold. It should sit flush. The pin may need to be trimmed to allow for a flush fit. Now with part 21 inserted into part 15 (DO NOT GLUE PART 21) Carefully glue the assembly to the sloped floor and right sidewall. There are weld beads for this location. When installed the beads will be on the forward side of part 15. Now carefully slide part 21 into the exhaust manifold and glue. See figure 22 for completed assembly Fig. 21 Floor Angle Once you have the upper hose temporarily installed check the clearance of Dragon part A23 (upper hull). You may need to adjust the position of the hose and/or trim part A23. Once you are satisfied with the fit install the upper hose. 11. Next install the fan assembly (8) to the radiator. There is a small tab on the floor. The Fan assembly should locate to this tab. Now install the fan drive belt/pulley assembly (17) There is lead foil provided to make a more realistic belt. Use the pulleys with the cast belt for a template. Next install the carburetor and intake tube assembly (20) between the engine and front wall. See figure 20 to reference above parts locations. 15D 15A C 15B 7
8 Final Assembly 13. The final assembly consists of installing parts 22 and 23 or 24. You will want to decide if you want the radiator vent door open or closed. Parts 23 and 24 replace Dragon part B53. See figures 23 and 24 for the placement of parts 23 and Finally we install part 22 which replaces Dragon part A10. Before gluing this part take Dragon part A9 and slide in in front of part 5. It will fit a little snug but that s good. Now take part 22 and put it on part 6 (DO NOT GLUE). Now put the upper hull on and check that Dragon part A9 and TWS part 22 fit smoothly to the upper hull. You may need to trim the right side wall to allow the upper hull to move aft. Just keep checking the fit. Once you are satisfied that the two walls fit good then attach both of them to each other and their respective inner walls. This will effectively replace a portion of step 6 in the Dragon instructions. Part 21 slid forward and attached to the engine Fig. 22 A9 Drill this end for part 21 Note weld bead 15D 15B 15A 15C Fig. 23 Shows radiator vent closed Continue building the kit as per the Dragon instructions and your build style. FINAL NOTE: I hope you enjoyed assembling this kit. If you have any questions or comments feel free to contact me at the below information or visit us on the web at Fig. 24 Shows radiator vent open Painting This is a suggestion of colors to be used to paint the compartment and engine. This is by no means 100% accurate. It s comprised of colors used in various German AFV compartments. The interior of the compartment could be either primer red or cream color and some may have even been the original German grey. The engine would be black with the various accessories and radiator a semi gloss black. The exterior walls would be the same color as the fighting compartment. Always check your references. 345 Wynbrook Dr. McDonough, GA PHONE: tankworkshop@charter.net 8
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