Part One of Two - RoR Step-by-Step Review * K.S. Pittman Willys Drag Coupe Revell # :25 Scale Review Click Here to Buy This Kit

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1 Part One of Two - RoR Step-by-Step Review * K.S. Pittman Willys Drag Coupe Revell # :25 Scale Review Click Here to Buy This Kit 000 This review is of the reissued Revell 1941 Willys Drag Coupe in 1:25 scale this time with K.S. Pittman decals (kit # ). 000a On first opening of the box, I was happily surprised to see two sets of grilles, one in plastic chrome and the other a photo-etch.

2 If you are familiar with the history of the 60 s Gasser races, you will know that K.S. Pittman was one of the fiercest competitors out there. 020 At close inspection of the undercarriage, you will find that this kit has a copyright date of I was also impressed with the quality of the decal sheet. Nicely detailed and they went on smoothly. 002 As with all my builds, I always like to start by completing all the body work first. I prepped, sanded any of the imperfections of the body first and then applied primer. Then comes the very important question, how will I be I painting this body? I discovered a picture of KS Pittman s actual car (version 2 on the instruction sheet). With a little difference between the Revell instruction set and the 1:1 car. On the real car, KS Pittman s Willys didn t have one of the sponsors on the

3 fender that the instruction sheet shows. That s the only decal that I didn t use from the instruction sheet. 003 As for the color; after speaking with a few of my drag racing buddies, they told me that KS Pittman s 41 Willys was usually a Hemi or Hugger Orange, not red. The only time KS Pittman used red was when he was racing at the West Coast. With that being said, I decided to paint it HEMI Orange. 006 After the paint dried, I started applying the Bare Metal Foil.

4 008 & 009 I remember reading on a forum that someone when they applied the Bare Metal Foil, some of the paint came of when they pealed the extra Bare Metal Foil. Keeping this in mind, I used just enough Bare Metal Foil to do its job and removed the extra very slowly. Definitely take your time in this process. It s worth it. 026 & 027 Now comes the fun part, applying the decals. As I mentioned before they went on smoothly. After setting the decal in its place, I applied Solvaset to set the decals on the body. The Solvaset didn t damage the decals. When I applied the Solvaset I quickly removed any excess solution as to make sure it doesn t do any damage to the decals. End result, it came out looking great.

5 028 After a day to let the decals set, I applied Testor s Ultra Gloss Clear Coat to seal in the decals. 037 When the clear coat dried, I installed all the windows. I also applied Bare Metal Foil to the front windshield frame and the decal to the window. 010 & 011 Putting the body aside, I started with the engine. The engine was pretty straight forward. The instructions were simple to follow. First I glued the two halves of the engine block and transmission together and applied black primer. After the primer dried I painted the transmission aluminum and used Future floor polish to give the engine block that realistic look. The instruction sheet mentions to paint the engine block yellow, but looking at the actual 1941 Willys Drag coupe engines, they are mostly painted black and some painted in red. There s even some in bare metal. I also painted the oil pan aluminum and attached it to the block.

6 013 When applying the valve covers, you may want to first remove the injection pin flash underneath the valve covers. If not, they will not sit correctly on the engine. It s very simple to remove, just use your x-acto knife. 018 Next I attached the supercharger onto the engine and drilled the holes on the valve cover where I m going to feed some spark plug wires in. Continued on Part Two

7 Part Two of Two - RoR Step-by-Step Review * K.S. Pittman Willys Drag Coupe Revell # :25 Scale Review Click Here to Buy This Kit

8 015 Also I drilled holes on the valve covers where items #91 goes on. 016 Then I drilled the holes on item #91 and attached some copper pins to strengthen the bond and it also makes sure that they won t fall off easily.

9 018a Here s how the sub-assembly came out looking. 019 I continued by inserting the spark plug wires onto the engine and attached the exhaust headers and the blower scoop and decals. So the engine is complete.

10 021 To build the interior I applied black primer to it and attached the rear cabin wall. 022 & 023 Then install the steering column, the foot pedals, shifter, seat (to which I applied the seatbelt decals), and roll cage.

11 024b When I came to the dashboard, there s a misprint. When they mention to cut the decal #22 (for the dash gauges), it should have said #19 as that is the dash gauges not #22.

12 24 Attached the dash gauges decal to the dashboard with white glue. 25 While I waited for the decal to cure on the dashboard, I attached the door panels and then the dashboard itself.

13 030 While the interior was drying, I continued with the chassis. Here is where I got carried away with building it that I didn t take many pictures, but here s what I ve done: painted all the parts as instructed (the instructions where accurate). Paint the chassis and rear axle semi gloss black. The suspension, sway bar, shocks, and traction bars silver. Then attach the wheels. 031 & 032 I painted the wheels polished metal to match one of the KS Pittman car photos that I used as my reference.

14 033 After that was done I placed the engine into the chassis. Then was the time to attach the chassis to the body. Usually this is the when I cross my fingers and hope that the chassis and body line up to each other. I m pleased to say that they went together perfectly.

15 038 As photo-etch goes, they can be difficult to apply but not in this case. They went on smoothly as well. You may want to gently curve the grille a little to make sure that it goes on without much fuss. I used InstaCure+ Super Glue here. 035 It s time to finish off the build by attaching the headlights and grill. 045 Continue with the rear lights, door knobs, and parachute. They were simple to attach. 045a I could not help myself; I had to detail the parachute as well. Added, were the parachute line and the deploying line.

16 047 The finished chassis. 049 A few photos with the hood off to show that great engine compartment.

17 999 Here s the model kit finished.

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