Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Thames Panel Truck Gasser 1:25 Scale Revell Model Kit # Review

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1 Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Thames Panel Truck Gasser 1:25 Scale Revell Model Kit # Review Review and Photos by Alan Mann London has long been one of the most busy and populous cities in the world. Its streets are a hodgepodge of modern highways and narrow, ancient roads between buildings centuries old. In 1951, the first Thames Panel Trucks were released on the streets of London where their compact bodies and short wheelbases made them ideal for delivering cargo. Later, the popular vehicles arrived on the drag racing scene with new V-8 engines and improved suspensions. For the Modeler: This review is based in the Revell # Thames Panel Truck (Revell SSP version). This kit is Skill level 2 for intermediate builder and contains 120 parts. The kit is molded in White, Chrome and Clear and has Vinyl Tires. This kit has seen only a few box-arts over the years and is a 100% Reissue (Re-Pop). The original kit was released in 1971, a reissue in 1995 and now as a Selected Subjects Program Original Kit Parts release in The parts are stamped 1995 on this release so this is still the old tooling. You get a nicely detailed V8 with lots of Chrome. The chassis is simple and clean as a 51 Gasser would be. The original decals are reproduced for this kit also. As a Special Subjects Program kit this version is the same as what you would get if you opened the 1971 version. Overall dimensions of the finished build are: Length: 5-3/4", Width: 2-5/16", Height: 2-3/8".

2 Construction: BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. ****NOTE**** Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. Pic 1 shows the parts as they come from the box. Pic 2 (right) shows the box art for this kit as released in the Revell SSP Thames Panel Truck version. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer s Clear School Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel bottle paints unless noted and Rattle can spray paints. The body is finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. **Note: Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use colors that most model builders should have on hand and compliment my build design. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. Pic 3 is the decal sheet that comes with this kit version. These are typical Revell decals and float easy with a nice smooth transfer. I do not use setting solution on my builds and have no need with these decals. These are newly printed and dated 2014 but are replicas of the originals. Pic 4 shows the motor parts needed to assemble the motor and transmission.

3 Pic 5 is the left side of the motor. Painting: Paint the following parts motor color, the directions say Black but I used Flat OD Green: Block bottom, block top halves, timing chain cover and heads. On the block top halves paint the bell housing Silver. Paint the intake Silver. Paint the Belt Flat Black with Black pulleys. Paint the front of the bell housing Steel. Paint the injector rails Silver. Paint the transmission Silver. All other parts are chromed. Pic 6 is the right side of the motor. Assembly: Attach the oil pan to the block bottom and the top block halves to the top of the block bottom. Attach the intake to the valley area. Attach the cover to the manifold and the oil filler tube and magneto to the cover. Attach the bell housing bottom and front to the motor. Attach the timing chain cover to the motor and the belt to it. Attach the fuel pump to the back side of the small belt. Insert the injector tubes into the injector rails. Attach the rails to the manifold. Attach the heads to the motor and valve covers to the heads. Assemble the transmission and shifter and attach that to the bell housing front. Attach the collectors to the exhaust and the exhaust to the motor. Contest Notes: This assembly shows its age. There are parting lines on the motor and transmission that need to be worked out. The fit of parts is loose and there are gaps especially in the transmission, these would need filled to correct the issues. The chrome would need to be stripped and refinished as the sprue connections are in poor locations that leave damage on the parts that will show.

4 Pic 7 shows the chassis and rear suspension assembly. Painting: Assemble the rear differential pieces and insert the axle. Add the ladder bars to each side of the differential. Paint that unit Black. Install the brake and leaf spring units to the finished differential. Note Pic 8A and 8B and then paint the chassis pan. Paint the frame rails Black, the inner floor area, underneath and rear panel Body Color. Paint the wood floor area Brown. You will need to Clearcoat the rear panel only. Paint the driveshaft Steel. Pics 8A and 8B show the underside of the chassis. You must remove the text and injection pins prior to finishing the chassis. I used a razor blade and sandpaper to remove it.

5 Pic 9 is the finished assembly. On the chassis attach the rear suspension unit to the frame tabs. Attach the shocks to the ladder bars and then to the frame. Insert the driveshaft into the differential and install the motor assembly into the frame. Pic 10 is a shot of the parts for the rear tire assembly and transmission mount. To create a more realistic look on the tires use 220 grit sandpaper and press the tire as you roll it on the sandpaper. This will scuff the tire giving it a worn used look. Painting: paint the hubs and mount Black. Assembly: slide the rim fronts into the tire, flip and slide the rim rears into the tire. Glue the hubs into the rim from the back side. See Pic 11 for finished rims. Attach the tire assembly to the rear axle. Attach the transmission mount into the frame slots. Contest note: as seen in Pic 11 there are severe sprue connection tabs that must be removed and the rims cleaned and repaired. You may need to repair and rechrome these parts.

6 Pic 12 is the rear suspension in place and finished. Pic 13 shows the front suspension assembly parts.

7 Pic 14 is a completed shot of the front suspension assembly. Painting: paint all spindle and tie rod parts not chromed Black. Assembly: As with the rear tires snap the rim fronts into the tires and glue the rim backs in from the back. Attach the tie rod connectors to the brakes. Slide the brakes on to the axle. Install the spindle pins into the spindles and attach those to the brakes. Attach the tire assembly onto the pins. Glue the tie rod into place on the connectors. Attach the completed unit on to the frame. The pin in the center of the spring mounts to the cross member. I used Super Glue to hold it tight. Attach the radius rods to the frame and axle. Attach the shocks to the frame and axle. ***Note: These parts are very unsteady during assembly and the whole unit is not stable until the glue is dried. I used Super Glue on this whole assembly to strengthen it. Pic 15 shows all the parts that will be painted BODY COLOR.

8 Pic 16 and Pic 17 show some mold marking lines that need to be removed prior to paint work. Sand these areas smooth and finish the body as normal. The mold lines are on the front fenders (left) and along the roof line (right photo). Prepare the body and all parts that go Body color for Primer. Water sand the parts with 1000 grit sand paper and let them dry fully. Prime all parts inside and out. After the Primer dries water sand again and then paint the parts your choice of Body Color, Decal as you choose then Clear Coat.

9 Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on the car you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it Floats loosely on the carrier paper. Put a little water on the spot of the car you want to transfer the decal on to and carefully float the decal off the carrier paper onto the car. Using tweezers and a Q-tip position the decal in to place where it will be located when finished. Now with a small part of paper towel carefully extract the water from the area by lightly dabbing around the decal and then on top of the decal. Using a moist paper towel and or moist Q-tip you can smooth out and air bubbles and wrinkles from the center of the decal out to the edges. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. Pic 18 shows the Acetate sheet that you get for the windows. Pic 19 is the directions sheet templates for the windows. Cut out the templates and attach the templates to the acetate with some scotch tape. You can cut the windows from the acetate and trim to fit once you install them. Use Elmer s School Glue to hold them in the car. ***NOTE: If you desire you can replace the clear supplied acetate with any colored sheet you wish to customize your build. Just do the above directions on your sheet of acetate. It was typical of the time to use a colored plastic that accented the body color on the real cars.

10 Pic 20 shows the parts to install the doors and front glass. Pic 21 is a shot of the finished assembly. Painting: Paint the door panels Flat Black with Silver handles. Assembly: using the cut acetate glue the windshield in with Elmer s Glue. Attach the brake pedal to the inside firewall and attach the firewall into the body. Use Elmer s Glue to attach the door glass. The doors hang by hooks on the tabs on the firewall. Glue the inner door panels in place; the hooks on the panels will complete the hinge on the doors holding them on the body. Pic 22 shows the interior and radiator parts that install on the completed chassis assembly. Painting: Paint the radiator and hoses Flat Black with a Gold radiator cap. Paint the seats and roll bar parts Black. Assembly: Attach the radiator to the frame. Install the three hoses to the radiator and motor. Install the gas pedal, install the roll bar and supports to the floor and wheel well spots. Install the seats in place.

11 Pic 23 is a completed shot of the rolling chassis assembly at this point. PIC 24 NOTE INSTRUCTIONS ERROR: Assembly 11 of the instructions has you installing the steering column now. BUT you must first attach the body to the chassis prior to this step. Step 12 should be completed FIRST. Install the body to the chassis then install the steering column. See Pic 24 for body placement.

12 Pic 25 shows the parts for the steering column and gas tank. Painting: Paint all of the column parts Black. Paint the Steering rod and the tank mounts Silver. Assembly: Slide the steering column into the hole in the firewall and mount it to the frame. Attach the steering rod to the column and to the tie rod on the opposite side. Assemble the gas tank and attach that to the mounts. The mounts attach to the front cross member on the frame. Note there is no positive attachment point for the tank so line it up centered and glue it in place. Pic 26 is the finished assembly.

13 ***Note*** for contest builders the tank has mold lines and sprue attachment points that ruin the chrome. You will need to repair and re-chrome this part to correct it. Pic 27 shows the parts for final assembly of the front end. As this is final parts assembly I detoured from the instructions a little and finished all the parts in the front in one step. I then will finish the rear in a separate assembly. The instructions have you bounce back and forth a little but this process is faster. Assembly: Mount the grille shafts into the hood. Insert the hood on to the pins on the body. Insert the headlight into the mount and attach both to the fenders. Attach the steering wheel to the column. Attach the door handles to the doors. Pic 28 (right) is a finished shot of the front end. As seen in Pic 29 and Pic 30 there is a severe warp in my body and hood line up. I tried different methods of straightening this with no luck. Minor heat to warm and re-position parts, pressure and gluing nor bending the parts slightly worked. I chose to cut the pins and just let the hood sit on the fenders.

14 Pic 31 shows the completed assembly of the engine bay area. Pic 32 shows the parts for the rear end assembly. Painting: Assemble the battery bottoms and tops and paint them Black with Silver top plugs and covers. Paint the hinges Black. Paint the inner door panels Black. Paint the rear brake light Red. Assembly: Glue the batteries on to the floor in the back. Trim the acetate windows to fit and glue in with Elmer s Glue. On the doors install the door handle and rear light in place. Hang the doors on to the body hinges and glue the inner hinge in place to hold the door. Attach the Key to the slot on the rear body panel.

15 Pic 33 for rear end final assembly. PIC 34 Depending on HOW you did your assembly compared to the review is what remaining parts you will have. This is a shot of what I have left for parts.

16 Overall Impressions: This kit shows its age! Assembly is loose and part fit is sometimes not that good. The directions do not always give the clearest points of attachment nor are they completely accurate. This builds into a cool finished kit but takes time and patience to get there, this is not for a beginner. From the start, the motor assembly is rough looking and has a piecemeal look. The chrome work on the kit suffers from Poor Attachment Point Syndrome Or the fact that the attachment points on the sprue are in bad spots that leave the parts damaged when removed and ruins the chrome finish. I had warping issues with my kit also. Revell brings back one of the more popular kits of the past, and it is a blast for many older builders, but the newer builders that are accustomed to today s much higher kit quality might be turned off by this bit of nostalgia! Overall on a scale of 1 to 10 I give this one a 5. Sorry Revell but the nostalgia was missing because of the aggravation of building.