Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Diamond Reo Tractor 1:25 Scale AMT Model Kit #719 Review

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1 Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Diamond Reo Tractor 1:25 Scale AMT Model Kit #719 Review Diamond Reo Trucks was an American truck manufacturer from 1967 until Diamond T and Reo Trucks were combined to form the Diamond Reo Trucks Division of the White Motor Corporation. Reo dated back to 1904 when Ransom E. Olds, founder of Oldsmobile, began building motor cars, and Diamond T dated back to 1905 when C.A. Tilt began building vehicles. In 1971, Francis L. Cappaert of Birmingham, Alabama, bought Diamond Reo from White. And, at about the same time the Diamond Reo C- 116 series was introduced. Despite new model introductions and excellent reputation Diamond Reo was forced into bankruptcy on December 6, One year later Loyal Osterlund and partner Ray Houseal bought the rights to Diamond Reo Trucks and made room to continue production in their Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, facility, originally a dealership and maintenance facility. The single model C-116 Giant was continued in production with the Cummins NTC-290 diesel engine as standard power. Production for 1978 was 131 units. By 1985, the Harrisburg plant was expanded to be able to produce 10 trucks per day, although output continued at about two per day. The company continued to build about 150 Class 8 trucks annually through 1995 all as Diamond Vehicle Solutions LLC. In the early 2000s Diamond Vehicle Solutions marketed the T-Line series described as "a blend of vintage Diamond T heritage and modern engineering. These trucks were manufactured until 2010 with parts manufacturing lasting until Diamond Reo Trucks is now defunct.

2 For the modeler: This review covers the re-release (Re-Pop) of the AMT Diamond Reo Tractor released by Round2. This is a recent re-release from late 2011 and is still available in hobby shops and online. From the Website: AMT's Diamond Reo Returns in Original Packaging! By popular demand, AMT's vintage Diamond Reo tractor is being reissued in the Retro Deluxe format, featuring original packaging and an expanded decal sheet that is sure to delight model truck enthusiasts. It even includes a miniature kit box that can be displayed with the completed model! This super-detailed kit was scaled from official factory blueprints and will make an outstanding additional to your collection of AMT large trucks and trailers! This is a Skill Level 3 kit for advanced builders and is in 1/25 scale. The kit contains over 250 parts molded in white, clear, transparent red and amber with chrome parts, vinyl tires and metal axles. Overall the build is straight forward with sub-assembly style construction. The parts fit is good and there are little flash or mold marks. The directions are done in 12 steps but assembly needs to be stretched out into more steps as this review will show. Take your time and this will result in a nice shelf model and possibly a show model with a little extra effort. Overall Dimensions: Length: 10-1/2, Width: 4, Height: 5. BUILDING CAVEATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the build YOU want! Unless you are building a Factory Stock or a Replica your choices of color and build options are completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no Wrong way to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly. PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the 2011 Retro Deluxe version. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer s White Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel or Tamiya Acrylic bottle paints and different brands of Rattle can spray paints. Many parts are finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than a half an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion.

3 Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection. PIC 2 PIC 3 Here are the decals for this build. The quality is very high and color registry is good. There is a small carrier around each decal. These decals float easily and will set quickly. Normally it is preferable to use a setting solution to help move the decals in place on your build and to allow extra time to place them. I personally have found Microscale Industries products to be the most compatible with all the different manufacturers of decals. PIC 4 PIC 5 Start by assembling the motor prior to painting. It will be built in subsections, painted and then assembled. Assemble the block. Add the following parts in place: rocker arm covers, breather, oil filler cap, water neck, filter, front cover, oil pan, oil line, after cooler, intake pipe, dipstick. Paint that unit Tan. Assemble the transmission and both air cleaners and paint Steel. Assemble the exhaust manifold and the turbo parts and paint Steel as well as the water manifold. Assemble the upper oil cooler and add the oil cooler, paint this unit Black. The alternator is Aluminum. The starter, belts, fan, fuel pump and line, fuel filters and Freon compressor are all Flat Black.

4 PIC 6 PIC 7 Assemble the motor. Add the transmission. LEFT SIDE: Add the starter, water manifold and then the exhaust unit. Add the oil cooler. RIGHT SIDE: Add the fuel pump, filters, and line. FRONT: Add the three belts, alternator, fan, and Freon compressor. PIC 8 The tires need to be prepared for assembly. To give the tread a road worn look use 220 grit sandpaper to press and roll the tread on. All the tires are the same so location is not an issue. PIC 9 PIC 10 The front and rear rims are different. Make sure to use the proper parts in assembly. The wheel inner spokes are either Body Color or an alternate accent color. The inner and outer wheel flanges are Aluminum or Steel or can be solid color to match the spokes. I did a custom Blue Steel Monotone rim combination. The rear brake drums are Chassis Color or Flat Black. Assemble the front rims by attaching a wheel flange front and back to the spoke. Assemble the rear rims by attaching a front and rear wheel flange to the spoke. Add the brake drum and hub cover.

5 Note: The instructions recommend full assembly of the chassis and suspension prior to painting. This will involve multiple steps from 3 to 7 in the instructions. Assemble all of the chassis that is painted in these next steps. Then paint the finished chassis and finally add the remaining parts. PIC 11 Assemble the main chassis rails. PIC 12 Start on one frame rail and add the engine mount, rear tranny support and cross member, assemble and add the intermediate cross member, add the rear cross member. Add the other frame rail. Install the front and rear cab mounts and the leaf springs. PIC 13 The rear suspension is next.

6 PIC 14 Assemble the axles, add the backing plates and six air chambers with two brake chambers on the rear. Add the gearbox. Assemble the springs and cross tube to the frame. Add the axles with the drive shaft and track bar. Add the anti-skid controls into the frame and add the license frame and tail light bezels. PIC 15 The front suspension is added.

7 PIC 16 Attach the tie rod to the axle. Insert the axle pin into the pin retainer and glue that to the cap, attach that unit to the axle. Install the axle. Add the steering box, pitman arm and power steering cylinder. Add the idler arm and shocks. PIC 17 Add the fuel tank supports.

8 PIC 18 Assemble and add the battery boxes and air tanks. Add the slide plate and carriage. This can now be painted the color choice of your chassis as a whole unit. PIC 19 PIC 20 Add the rear tires with the metal axle. Add the front tires by sliding them on the pins. Glue the tail lights and tag light in place. Add the motor and drive shaft in place. PIC 21 PIC 22 The final chassis parts are painted and installed. The following parts are Flat Black: 5th wheel, flaps, hoses and the assembled radiator. The fuel tanks and fenders and hose tenna are body color. Assemble the radiator and install it on the frame, add the lower and upper hose to the motor. Add the mud flaps and 5th wheel to the rear of the frame. The straps on the fuel tank are Bare Metal Foiled or painted Silver and the tanks installed. Add the steps and filler caps to the tanks. Add the steps to the battery boxes. Install the fenders and the hose tenna.

9 PIC 23 PIC 24 The chassis is completed at this point. PIC 25 PIC 26 The rear and front suspension is completed and installed at this point.

10 PIC 27 Start the dash next. PIC 28 The instrument panel is a separate unit that makes detailing easy. But there are no decals in the kit for this build. I just used my own. I use a home-made decal of wood paneling and paint the dash tan. I then added decals for instruments I had also made. From the internet you can download photos and size them to fit. Paint the dash, wheel and column Tan. The indicator stalks are Black. Attach the wheel to the column and the column will be attached to the dash. PIC 29 PIC 30 The interior is assembled next. Paint the tub Flat Black on the outside. The door panel and back side is Tan with a Flat Black floor. Details are done in Silver. Add the heater to the inside of the firewall and paint that Flat Black with the outside Body Color. Assemble the passenger and driver seats and paint them Flat Black. The pedals are Black. The shifter knob is Black with a Flat Black boot. Install the pedals and shifter. Add the seats and firewall. Add the dash.

11 PIC 31 PIC 32 Start the body assembly. Add the lower body panels to the cab and assemble then add the AC unit to the roof. PIC 33 PIC 34 Assemble the fenders to the hood. PIC 35 PIC 36 If you use the sleeper, assemble the sides with the back and front onto the bottom. Add the cab mounts. Add the crawl-through. Leave the roof off for later assembly.

12 PIC 37 Use a wet scrub pad to break the gloss surface on the parts. Sanding the parts will cause a loss of detail on the molded in details. Carefully scrub the parts and rinse clean. When completely dry use a good quality primer and completely prime the inside and outside of all of the parts. PIC 38 Once the primer is cured, wet scrub the parts again and rinse clean. Paint the interior of the cab Tan and the interior of the sleeper Tan. The exteriors are all Body Color on the parts. PIC 39 Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay

13 them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it Floats loosely on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The purpose is to soften the decals to help them conform to the contours of the body and lay smooth. To apply Micro Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the part where you are going to apply the decal. Next apply the decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal. Blot the decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel so as not to move it and allow it to dry. For a tougher decals apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to the decal. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly work any creases or blemishes in the decal out with a Q-tip or damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to damage the decal. A second coat of Micro-Sol can be added if needed. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. Let the decals cure at least overnight before applying your clear coat. PIC 40 PIC 41 OPTIONAL: Prior to assembly I want to give the glass a thinner, crisper look. I will dip the parts into Pledge Floor Care. When applied to both side of a piece of clear polystyrene, it will make glass appear thinner and clearer. It will help to hide minor scratches also. Simply pour some Pledge into a small container and dip your clear glass into it. It will self-level and make the part look clearer. Place the parts on a sheet of paper towel to dry, the paper towel will draw out the excess Pledge and Wick it off the parts so it does not accumulate at the edges leaving an unwanted build up. After you dip the part, be sure to place a cover over it to prevent dust from collecting on it.

14 PIC 42 PIC 43 Install the glass, paint the upper console tan and install it. Next, install the interior tub. PIC 44 PIC 45 Add the horns and related parts to the cab.

15 Add the running lights and lenses. Add the door handles to the doors. Assemble the mirrors and add the mirrors. Add the screen to the AC. Assemble the air filter Black and install it. Paint the luberfinder bracket silver and assemble the luberfinder adding it and the bracket to the cab. Paint the air tube Flat Black and exhaust tube Aluminum. Assemble the stack and standoff brackets and paint with Alclad Chrome. Install the exhaust tube in place, add the cab in place, install the stack and add the air tube. Paint the steering linkage Flat Black and install. PIC 46 The motor is fully completed at this time.

16 PIC 47 PIC 48 Final front assembly: Blackwash the grille with a 50/50 wash of Flat Black and water. Paint the emblem Red on all three emblems. The blinkers are Stoplight Red on the back and Turn Signal Yellow on the front. The fender flaps and hood hinges are Flat Black. On the grille, add the hood hinges and install the grille into the hood. Add the fender flares. Add the blinkers and emblems. Add the fender flaps. Using Elmer s White Glue install the headlights and add those to the hood. Install the hood to the frame. Install the bumper and add the plate. PIC 49 PIC 50 Final assembly: Add the glass to the inside of the sleeper and glue the roof in place. Install the sleeper onto the frame. PIC 51 All you should have left are decals and unused Red and Yellow parts. I did not use the batteries since you glue the battery boxes around them? Once you assemble and glue the boxes in place the batteries are inside and will never be seen so why bother including them. The boxes themselves are used, just not the batteries inside the boxes.

17 PIC 999 OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: AMT has had the molds for this kit since the 70 s and it has seen multiple releases. Round2 has done a good job of sending out a clean copy of this kit with limited flash and mold lines. You will need to clean up the parts some as expected and the overall details are not as crisp as you would see on kits released in today s NEW RELEASE MOLD versions but these still build up to be nice shelf models and with a little work are seen at many contests still today. The chassis was very straight and I had no issues with build up or fitting of parts at all, location points were easy to find and the overall assembly quite simple. The motor built very easily also and fit together nicely. Fitting it in the chassis was a little tricky but not beyond normal ability if you take your time. The interior is very simplistic and is almost nonexistent with very little details and the sleeper has absolutely no interior details. The cab is a one part unit as is the hood, when fitting the parts on the truck in final assembly it is not a perfect fit and will never be. But this is quite the norm for old AMT kits and not much of a surprise. The overall assembly is easy for a builder with experience and I would not have a young builder jump into one of these kits. The chrome work is typical of the time where damage happens when removing from the sprue and the sprue tabs are a tad thick. Round2 has continued to re-release some great old kits from the past and this is another one that the big rig fans were happy to see. Based on the buildability, finished looks and overall assembly process I rate this one as an 8 on a scale of 1 to 10. It s not the greatest but it s far from a bad kit. Get one while you can!