Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Honda Super Hawk Motorcycle 1:8 Scale Revell Model Kit #H-1233 Review

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1 Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Honda Super Hawk Motorcycle 1:8 Scale Revell Model Kit #H-1233 Review The Honda CB77, or Super Hawk, was a 305 cc straight-twin motorcycle produced from 1961 until It is remembered today as Honda's first sport bike. It is a landmark model in Honda's advances in Western motorcycle markets of the 1960s, for its speed and power as well as its reliability, and is regarded as one of the bikes that set the standard for modern motorcycles. The CB77 had, at only 305cc, a relatively big engine in comparison to most other Japanese bikes of the period, although it had performance to rival much larger motorcycles from other countries. It quickly built a reputation for reliability, and was equipped with luxuries such as an electric starter. The CB77 was built on the experience Honda had gained in Grand Prix racing, and differed greatly from previous models. It had a steel-tube frame instead of the pressed frames of earlier Hondas, and a telescopic front fork. The parallel twin engine, the biggest then available in a Honda, was an integral element of the bike's structure, providing stiffness in a frame that had no downtube, and was capable of 9,000 rpm. It could propel the bike at over 100 mph; as fast as British parallel twins with higher displacements, and with great reliability. Cycle World tested its average two-way top speed at mph, and its 1 4 mile time in 16.8 seconds at 83 mph.

2 For the Modeler: This review covers the Revell ORIGINAL 1966 release of the Honda Super Hawk motorcycle in 1/8 scale. Although this kit has been discontinued you can still find them for sale at online auction sites. A similar kit was issued as well. The kit has over 125 parts molded in Red, Chrome, Clear and Clear Red with Rubber tires and Tubes for running lines and cables. The motor and exhaust are multiple parts and all chrome. The frame and front forks are multiple parts and build around the motor. There is not much detail to this kit being it is so old and not on par with the newer releases. But this is a nice kit to build. The only decals are the speedometer and tank logo. As this was an older opened kit I had no instructions. I found instructions for a similar kit online. Those are typical of the issues you can run into with a vintage kit but thanks to the internet and some great hobby products, like Alclad II Lacquer, that s no longer a show stopper. Overall finished dimensions are: Length: 10, Width: 3, Height: 2-1/4. NOTE: Being a Vintage kit this one has a few issues. The Chrome has faded and needs re-chroming. There are multiple options available from Electroplating and Spray Chemical coating where you send the parts away. Or, there are products on the market from Alclad II that will reproduce a realistic Chrome surface on the parts. This review will feature the use of Alclad II Chrome Lacquer. BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the model YOU want! Unless you are building a Factory Stock or a Replica model your choices of color and build options is completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no Wrong way to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly.

3 PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the Original 1966 version. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer s White Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel or Tamiya Acrylic bottle paints and different brands of Rattle can spray paints. The body is finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection. PIC 2 Here are the decals for this build. The quality is poor as these are damaged and need to be cleaned and coated with a clear decal fixative. I use Krylon Krystal Clear. This also means the decals will need to be cut close due to the solid carrier. Normally it is preferable to use a setting solution to help move the decals in place on your build and to allow extra time to place them. But due to their age I will not use one. PIC 3 PIC 4 Prior to any work the damaged Chrome needs to be stripped off of the parts. There are many products that can do this and with varying results. I use Bleach for small individual parts as I can do it in my office. But for major projects and INSTANT results I have gone to using Purple Power. This is a Cleaner and Degreaser that is caustic and needs to be used in open air with protective gloves. It is great for soaking and stripping paint but also will remove Chrome almost as it touches it. For full parts trees I use

4 a plastic tub and pour the Purple Power on the trees. Soak and RINSE very well with Dawn Dish soap. Let them air dry. One great side effect of removing kit chrome is the details are stronger. The chrome covers and hides detail and Alclad II is a thin paint that preserves details which are sometimes lost in the electroplated kit parts. PIC 5 ALCLAD II PREPARATION AND SPRAYING: For use on injection plastic kits a primer is necessary. ALCLAD is similar in strength to lacquer/cellulose car paints, so injected polystyrene plastics frequently have areas which ALCLAD can craze. High-Shine ALCLAD finishes require a glossy base coat, usually Black. The surfaces to be painted must be thoroughly clean and free from dust, grease, oil and finger marks. ALCLAD should be sprayed at 12-15psi. Spray from a distance of 2-3 inches from the surface being painted using a narrow to medium width spray fan. Use the airbrush like a paint brush-aim to cover the model in a methodical manner. Buffing is not necessary-tonal variation can be made by polishing selected panels with Micromesh. REGULAR ALCLAD can be masked over and painted. Decal solutions can be used with REGULAR ALCLAD, but are not recommended for HIGH SHINE ALCLAD. When completely dry, finish with 2-3 coats of WATER-BASED CLEAR. Products for this build are: ALC-107 CHROME FOR PLASTIC and ALC-600 AQUA GLOSS. PIC 6 PIC 7 The motor is assembled first and the front and rear plates added. Attach the two top plates. Assemble the carbs and install those. Add the exhaust ports. Paint this as a unit with Alclad Chrome.

5 PIC 8 PIC 9 The transmission housing is assembled and the LEFT side cover added. The top cover and cap are added. The gear housing front parts are assembled and installed. Paint the unit Alclad Chrome. Paint the RIGHT side cover at the same time. I tacked it in place to make the Chrome match perfect during paint and will just remove it and glue it in place later. PIC 10 Assemble the transmission and motor.

6 PIC 11 PIC 12 The frame is painted Red. You can go to your local Honda Cycle dealer and get a 1 ounce touch-up bottle of paint but I used Chrysler Flame Red. The cross member is Black, and the inner fork attachment is Aluminum. Assemble the frame with the fork attachment (it s in the neck) without Glue. Add the motor and the cross member in place. Use Superglue on the frame attachments for strength. PIC 13 PIC 14 The kickstand is Flat Black. The coil halves and backs are also Flat Black and the mount is Aluminum. The frame brace is Red. Install the frame brace on the top of the frame where the seat goes. The kickstand is installed WITHOUT GLUE. The coil sides are installed on each side of the tab on the frame and the back is attached.

7 PIC 15 PIC 16 This step is done in sub-assemblies and then assembled on the bike. ASSEMBLY A: Assemble the frame rail back side to the front. Install the rail on to the chain guard. Paint the chain Steel with Aluminum sprockets. The rail assembly is Red. ASSEMBLY B: Assemble both shocks and paint them Alclad. ASSEMBLY C: Assemble the rail and paint it Red. FINAL ASSEMBLY: On the bike, loosen the chain cover on the transmission. Install the chain and the guard unit with a shock to hold the rear of the rail in place. Glue the transmission cover in place. On the opposite side add the shock and rail in place. PIC 17 PIC 18 Assemble the battery and paint it Flat Black. The oil cooler is Aluminum. The brace is Red. Install the brace, battery and oil cooler into the bike. PIC 19 Paint the rims Alclad Chrome. PIC 20 ***NOTE*** the front and rear tires are different. When assembling them, be sure to use the proper parts.

8 PIC 21 Insert the proper rim into one side of both the front and rear tire. Add the proper opposite side to the tire. ***NOTE*** make sure to stagger the spokes and not line them up to give the rim a correct look. PIC 22 PIC 23 This is a multiple part assembly that will be finished as one unit. Assemble the front forks by installing the lower connector and adding the inner and outer forks to it. The speedometer unit is added to one side, the brake disc and controller is added to the other side. This unit is all Alclad in my build. The real bikes came with the fork covers either Body color or all Chrome as an option They were available both ways, so I did this one all chrome. Assemble the pod halves and add the switch in place. Assemble the fender with the mounts. Paint the pod Red and the fender, speedometer bezel and headlight bezel Alclad.

9 PIC 24 Final assembly of the forks has you add the fender in place on the forks. In the pod add the headlight bezel. The lens is attached with Elmer s Glue. The speedometer bezel is added and the decal for the speedometer applied. Install the pod WITHOUT GLUE. Using the kit supplied tubing, cut a portion long enough to go from the speedometer unit to the headlight bezel. PIC 25 PIC 26 The pedals and right air cleaner are installed next. Paint the peg stand, brake and all linkages Aluminum. The air cover is Alclad. The rear brake disc, linkage and arm are Alclad. The filter is Yellow and Flat Black with a Flat Black tube. The pedals and pegs are Flat Black. Assemble the pegs on to the linkage bars and the linkage to the mount. Add the brake unit and pedals. Install that as a unit on to the bike. Add the kick start. Assemble the air filter and tube and install that. Add the cover and lock screw. Assemble the rear brake and install that.

10 PIC 27 PIC 28 The left side is assembled next. Paint the peg mount, clutch and all linkages Aluminum. The pegs are Flat Black. The air cover is Alclad. The rear fender is Alclad. The brake light unit Red and the mud flap Black. The filter is Yellow and Flat Black with a Flat Black tube. The pedals and pegs are Flat Black. Assemble the pegs on to the linkage bars and the linkage to the mount. Add the clutch unit and pedals. Install that as a unit onto the bike. Assemble the air filter and tube and install that. Add the cover and lock screw. Install the brake light and attach that unit to the fender. Add the mud flap and install the fender onto the frame. PIC 29 Assemble the exhaust tubes and mufflers, paint those units Alclad.

11 PIC 30 Attach the mufflers in place and add the tubes to the mufflers and the exhaust ports to line the mufflers up correctly. PIC 31 PIC 32 Assemble the gas tank. At this time I will also run some of the lines. Paint the tank sides Alclad with Black inserts and the tank bodies Red. Insert the clear glass into the tank sides and glue the logo in from the inside. Attach the sides to the tank bodies. Paint the cap Aluminum and attach that. Paint the spark plugs Aluminum and install. The fuel regulator is assembled and painted Aluminum and installed on the left tank bottom. Assemble the tank halves to the bike. Run a tube from the rear brake to the brake pedal. Run a tube from each carb bottom to the fuel regulator. Run a tube from the regulator to the tank opposite side. Run a tube to the coil and then the plug on each side. PIC 33 PIC 34 Install the rear tire. Paint the seat Flat Black with Silver trim. Install the seat

12 PIC 35 PIC 36 Install the front tire onto the forks. Assemble the handlebars and top cap then paint the unit Alclad with Flat Black hand grips. The top cap lock is Black. Assemble and paint the horn Aluminum. On the front frame attach the horn. The forks are installed WITHOUT GLUE to the bottom of the frame horn. The completed handlebar assembly is installed on the top of the frame horn WITHOUT GLUE, only glue the top of the forks to the assembly. Add the top cap lock to the frame horn. Attach the tube to the clutch handle. Install a tube from the front brakes to the brake handle. This completes your build with no left over parts.

13 PIC 999 OVERALL IMPRESSION: For a 1966 kit this assembled fairly easy. BUT, I must also say I am not a motorcycle builder and this is one of few I have built. So, for it to fit together and look good for an inexperienced motorcycle builder I would thing a builder with average model skills will be able to create a nice shelf model. This kit is nowhere near as detailed as ones you will find created today so for a casual builder this was a nice entry point. The fit and finish is not perfect but this is a 1966 kit and I cannot attribute storage conditions to the equation as I do not know how it was treated. The chrome was ruined, which seems to be a common issue on this vintage kit. There is not much to building the motor and assembly was easy. The frame was straight and went together without issue, use clamps during gluing to keep it tight though. The tank has a parting line right down the middle. The only way to correct it is assemble the halves and fill the seam. This would not hinder overall assembly too much and would make the build contest worthy. The wheel assembly was simple and even after 50 years the rubber tires were useable. The forks do assemble with a sturdy feel and do not flop when finished. I was surprised at how easily the tubing attached. This is normally a difficult area of the build but I had no issues. Overall the motorcycle built nicely. There are a few touchy areas where care needs taken for assembly. Good fit and finish permits good looking bike. Overall on a scale of 1 to 10 I rate this as an 8 for buildability.