Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Fruehauf Flatbed Trailer 1:25 Scale AMT Model Kit #617 Review

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1 Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Fruehauf Flatbed Trailer 1:25 Scale AMT Model Kit #617 Review A semi-trailer is a trailer without a front axle. A large proportion of its weight is supported either by a tractor (Semi) or by a detachable front axle assembly known as a dolly. A semi-trailer is normally equipped with legs, called "landing gear", which can be lowered to support it when it is uncoupled. Semi-trailers vary considerably in design, ranging from open-topped haulers to refrigerated enclosures known as Reefers. Semi-trailers are more popular for transport than full trailers, which have both front and rear axles. Ease of backing is cited as one of the semi's chief advantages. For the Modeler: This review covers the Re-Release (Re-Pop) of the AMT Fruehauf Flatbed Trailer by Round2. This is Kit #AMT617 in the current catalog and was released in AMT has released this kit countless times and it has been a popular kit over the years. It was originally seen first in the 70 s during the boom of Big Rig models but has been a mainstay ever since. It is still as popular today as it was then. This is a 1:25 scale kit with a Skill Level 2 rating for Moderate Builders. It contains over 110 parts molded in White styrene with Vinyl tires. You get a vinyl hose and chain for the load and lines also. There is a highly accurate undercarriage featuring cross-members with angle-braced landing gear and a tandem axle configuration. The decals are quite detailed with rig decals and bonus items you will use on other builds. Overall built dimensions are: Length: 18-1/2, Width: 4, Height: 2-1/2. Plan on some extra shelf space when paired with the tractor of your choice as you will top TWO FEET in length! BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the car YOU want! Unless you are building a Factory Stock or a Replica car your choices of color and build options is completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no Wrong way to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly.

2 PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the Retro Deluxe 2009 version. Unless otherwise stated I use Model Master Liquid Cement for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer s White Glue. Paints consist of Tamiya Acrylic bottle paints and Rattle can spray paints. The body is finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection. PIC 2 Here are the decals for this build. The quality is very high and color register is good. There is a small carrier around each decal. These decals float easily and will set quickly. PIC 3 Normally it is preferable to use a setting solution to help move the decals in place on your build and to allow extra time to place them. I personally have found Microscale Industries products to be the most compatible with all the different manufacturers of decals.

3 PIC 4 OPTIONAL: License Plates: I decided to do custom license plates and personalize this kit a little. You can go to and create any custom plate you want for any State. Also, you can search photos online for designer license plates. You can save the photo and resize it to fit a model. Just print it on photo paper and you have a plate of your own. To print your plate for 1/25 or 1/24 scale kit, open your photo program and crop the plate so you just have the plate only. Re-size the image size to make the Width.5 inches and make sure CONSTRAIN PROPORTIONS is on. Use 300 DPI for a crisp print. Save that and Print it on White Photo paper printing on High Quality Print Setting. You now have a proper sized plate to glue on your car. PIC 5 Start with the rims and tires.

4 PIC 5 PIC 6 Start with the rims and tires. Glue a ring on the front and back of each rim and add a drum in the back of each rim. Paint the rims the color of your trailer. I chose to do a Titanium Steel Trailer (PPG Automotive paint). Using 220 grit sandpaper press and roll the tread of the tires on the paper to give the tires a worn road driven look. Press a tire over each side of the rims to make four sets of duals. PIC 7 Assemble the suspension in two parts. In Step 1, Install the front and center cross members into the inner suspension. Add the rear cross member. Add the outer suspension. Assemble the three air brake tanks with the air valves and install those.

5 PIC 8 In Step 2, assemble the axles and install those. Add the radius rods. Assemble all four air chambers and push rods and install those. PIC 9 Paint this unit the trailer color.

6 PIC 10 PIC 11 The frame and main bed is started. Note on the bottom of the frame there is a Copyright and a Part number that needs to be removed before any assembly can be done. PIC 12 PIC 13 Install the frame rails. Add the three center cross-bars and six outer support bars. Install the rear cap and the three bumper parts.

7 PIC 14 Paint the whole unit the color of your choice, again I used Titanium Steel. Also note that there are numerous ejector pin marks to fill and finish on the underside if you re considering a contest build. PIC 15 The bed is a WOOD surface and needs to be taped off to be painted a wood tone. PIC 16 PIC 17 I started with a Flat Tan base (upper photo). I then used different shades of Brown washes and blends to create a dirty wood floor look for the trailer bed. This is not an exact science as each trailer would have its own look depending on age, care and use. Use your discretion and do some research online or drive through a local truck stop.

8 PIC 18 Paint the lock bar Steel install that in place to hold the suspension in place in one of the sets of holes. Paint the mud flaps Flat Black. PIC 19 Install the suspension to the frame. Add the tires now also. I added the Fruehauf decals to the flaps. Install the flaps to the rear of the suspension. Cut some of the rubber hose and attach it to the two pins on the floor and onto the pins on the suspension.

9 PIC 20 PIC 21 The kingpin can be attached to the coupler plate and painted with the bulkhead and front cap. They are Trailer color. There are two marker lights that should be painted Turn Signal Yellow on the front cap and the air line connections are Aluminum. Install the coupler plate to the underside. The front cap is installed and the bulkhead added to that.

10 PIC 22 CHOOSE between Skid Feet and Wheels for the landing gear. Also, decide if you are going to have the trailer on a rig or as a standalone display posing the legs UP or DOWN. As I am going to use this with a rig and want wheels I will use the WHEELS UP choice. PIC 23 Assemble the landing gear you chosen, including the crank and handle, and paint it trailer color. Install the legs in place and add the support bar in the middle.

11 PIC 24 The kit comes with DOT stripe decals. But I prefer to use an aftermarket product by LINE-O-TAPE that is made specifically for 1/25 scale big rig builders. This is a DOT Reflective Red and White tape strip that comes in a roll ready to apply. The roll will do an average of three small or two large trailer projects. PIC 25 The self-adhesive tape stays where you put it with just a little pressure. It is much more realistic than decals as it is actually reflective like the real stripes. It can be found online and at local hobby shops. PIC 26 Clean the flash from the rub rails, paint them trailer color and add them to the trailer s side. PIC 27 ***NOTE*** glue won t stick to paint so sand/scrape off the glue contact points prior to assembly. PIC 28 The back end is finished by cutting the plate to fit and gluing it in place. The tail lights are painted Flat Black around the trim and Red for the lenses.

12 PIC 29 The load for the trailer is optional and can be added if you wish. Assemble the ends to the steel rolls. Paint the rolls Aluminum or Chrome. The chocks are painted Wood tone. Use the length of chain and cut shorter lengths to give six tie downs. PIC 30 Line up the rolls and glue the chocks to the bed. Run two lengths of chain through the roll and attach to each side of the rub rail to create a tied down load. PIC 31 The only parts remaining are the extra landing gear choices and all of the decals other than the mud flap ones I used.

13 PIC 32 A full view from the right flank. PIC 33 A view of the left rear quarter.

14 OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: These kits are not overly difficult and can be assembled in a weekend. I highly enjoy building big rigs and trailers are a necessity for the finished look to me. Round2 has done a good job over the past few years in re-releasing some of the older rigs and trailers that were getting expensive in the secondary market and making them more affordable for builders. This is a GOOD thing. As for this kit, it has always had a few small issues, the tires and rims are a poor fit. But once together they are OK. There is not much detail and building is simplistic. Remember, this is a kit of the 70 s that was the way it was back then. Here is a secret to making your build more realistic. Use a DREMEL tool to route out the molded-in wood bed and replace it with Balsa or Bass wood. Stain it and make a real wood bed! Now you are talking CONTEST WINNER. The load is simple to fix. Take a box and make a tarp to cover it. Make pallets. Load crushed cars on it. Be creative! The build is quick and easy. OK, back to the review. The fit and finish was good. The frame was straight and I had no issues beyond flash. All the parts went in straight and fit as intended. The bed is a solid part and fairly thick, mine had no warpage and was flat. Overall the build went smooth. I did the trailer in one day at my leisure. And probably could have done the whole kit if I had attempted it. I finished the load the next morning and had the kit completed. So in reality I would consider this a One Day Build for an experienced builder with the time on their hands. Overall I enjoyed the kit and think the finished build looks good. On a scale of 1 to 10 based on the fact this is an oldie but goodie 70 s kit I give it a 9.