Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Alpine Renault A110 (Monte-Carlo 1971) 1:24 Scale Tamiya Model Kit #24278 Review

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1 Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Alpine Renault A110 (Monte-Carlo 1971) 1:24 Scale Tamiya Model Kit #24278 Review Shortly after World War II most of the European car manufacturers were decimated, with France suffering the worst. Parts were in short supply as was funding, and few if any of the smaller car manufacturers had survived the conflict. A few were able to rebuild their businesses after the war although this was not helped by the taxation system of the country imposing penalties for cars with engine displacements larger than 2.8 liters. The cars that replaced the bigger pre-war vehicles also did not last long, leaving the sporting French drivers with little option but to purchase foreign cars or modify their existing Renaults, Simcas, Peugeots and Citroens. The Berlinette A110 was introduced in 1963 and was still in production some ten years later. It underwent a variety of engine capacities. The Alpine Renault A110 raced in rallies around the world from the late 1960's through to the early 1970's. The rear wheel drive A110 featured a lightweight FRP body and was powered by a rear mounted 4-cylinder engine. In the 1971 Monte Carlo Rally, this compact design and a powerful 1,600cc engine allowed quick, agile running on the icy mountain tracks, giving the A1110 1st, 2nd and 3rd place for a clean sweep of the podium. For the modeler: This build review covers the Tamiya Kit#24278 Alpine Renault A110. The car is a 1/24 scale and while Tamiya does not use Skill Levels it recommends 10 years old and over. The kit has 110 parts molded in Grey, Metallic Blue, Chrome and Clear with Rubber tires, Poly Caps, Cartograf decals and Photo etch along with a nice ten-page instruction sheet. It is a fairly standard Tamiya product, and being from Japan, English is included but a secondary language. My sample is dated 2005 but as with most Tamiya products this is still widely available online and in some hobby stores. This kit has been released in multiple box arts as both a race car and a street car, the first release was in 1997 so this version is a Re- Release (Re-Pop). Tamiya has a standard build procedure on this with the motor, chassis, interior and then body. Parts are well detailed and there is little to no flash or blemishes. The body is the correct color with a high gloss, you could decal it and display it without painting if you desired. This is a small car for 1/24 scale as overall dimensions are: Length: 6-1/4, Width: 2-1/2, Height: 1-3/4.

2 BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the car YOU want! Unless you are building a Factory Stock or a Replica car your choices of color and build options is completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no Wrong way to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly. PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the 71 Monte-Carlo Rally Car version. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer s White Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel bottle paints and Rattle can spray paints. The body is finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. ***Note**** Always follow the Manufacturer s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection. PIC 2 PIC 3 Here is the decal sheet and Photo etch sheet. You get the decals to create both the 22 and 28 Rally Teams. These are Cartograf decals so the color is crisp and the quality is top notch, there is next to no carrier. They float nicely and will lay smooth. I do recommend using a setting agent like MicroSet to help the decal placement. As for the Photo etch, Tamiya considers this a Rub-On but the script has no adhesive and the carrier backing sheet is overly sticky making removal from the sheet difficult. This is the Old Style of Photo etch with no runners, each itty bitty letter is individual on the sheet. To say these are difficult is an understatement. You must glue these in place or use something like Pledge Floor Care to hold them on. Take great care when attempting to attach these.

3 PIC 4 Here are the parts for the motor. Paint the block Blue. The transmission and oil pan are Aluminum. The timing cover and pan bottom are Aluminum. The belt is Flat Black with Black pulleys. The alternator unit is Aluminum. The valve cover is Silver with Black highlights. The starter and oil filter on the block are Black. PIC 5 PIC 6 Assemble the block halves and add the pan bottom and timing cover. Add the valve cover. Assemble the alternator parts and add the belt to that unit. Install that onto the motor. PIC 7 PIC 8 The drivetrain is started now. All the parts are painted Flat Black. Note on the springs, they are Flat Black with Steel dry brushed onto the spring itself.

4 PIC 9 Assemble the front A-arm unit to the drivetrain. On the back slide the rear A-arms into place and attach the springs. Install the motor. PIC 10 Install the rear brakes now. Paint the Spindles Black. The discs are Silver with Black calipers and hubs. The transaxles are Black with Flat Black boots and Aluminum CV joints. PIC 11 Insert the poly caps into the spindle and glue the brakes in place. Attach the transaxle to the transmission and then add the spindle to the transaxle and the A-arm.

5 PIC 12 The lower frame is painted Flat Black and the exhaust is assembled and painted Flat White. PIC 13 Install the frame to the chassis and attach the spindles into the A-arms. Install the exhaust on the motor. PIC 14 PIC 15 Move to the front suspension and install it. The spindles and tie rod are Black. The brakes are Silver with Black hubs and calipers. The sway bar is Black. The A-arms are Black. Note in the close up the springs are Flat Black with the actual spring Dry Brushed Steel.

6 PIC 16 To install the suspension snap the tie rod to the spindles and insert the spindles into the A-arms on the frame, DO NOT GLUE. Slide the Poly Cap into the brakes and install those on the spindles. Insert the springs into the frame. Add the sway bar in place. Install the A-arms on the frame but do not glue to the spindle, just insert the spindle into the A-arm. ***NOTE*** The instructions have you install the drivetrain to the chassis pan now and install the tires. I have separated this step combining Step 7 and Step 8 in a new order. I will install the drivetrain and under trays first and the tires last. PIC 17 PIC 18 The chassis pan is next to assemble. Paint the whole unit Flat Black. Note the under trays are CLEAR, you can either leave them that way so when installed they show the details or paint them Flat Black. Paint the exhaust Flat White. Insert the drivetrain into the chassis pan. Add the under trays in place. Install the exhaust. PIC 19 PIC 20 The tires are a simple rim and tire assembly with a decal (#48) on the rim hub. To give the tires a more realistic look press and roll them on 220 grit sandpaper roughing the tread. Paint the rims Silver and slide into the tires with the tire logos to the outside. These tires are non-directional so placement is not important beyond the logos to the outside.

7 PIC 21 Install the tires on to the chassis. Simply slide the pin on the rims into the holes in the brakes. Here is the rolling chassis finished. PIC 22 PIC 23 Finish the motor by painting the carbs Gold with Silver stacks and install in place. Paint the radiator Aluminum and install. Paint the rear cover Semi-Gloss Black and install. PIC 24 PIC 25 Install the interior. On the center hump is a small panel by the shifter, paint that Aluminum. The seats are Semi-Gloss Black. The pedals are Black with an Aluminum gas pedal. The shifter is Black as is the E-brake. The E-brake handle is Aluminum. Install the pedals, shifter and E-brake in place. Install the seats.

8 PIC 26 Move to the dash assembly. The column is Semi-Gloss Black. The dash overall is Semi-Gloss Black, note the close up photo for decal locations and trim paint. The wheel is Black with Silver spokes. Install the wheel on the column and the column to the dash. PIC 27 DECALS are the instrument panel and DECAL 28 is the horn button. PIC 28 PIC 29 Finish the interior by painting and installing the roll bar and door panels. You will install the dash too now. Note the following step for the details on the door panels. The roll bar is Semi-Gloss Black. Paint and install the door panels, add the dash in place and the roll bar in place. PIC 30 PIC 31 I used Blue Painters tape and masked the door panel. I cut the area that stays Metallic Blue and painted the remaining area Semi-Gloss Black. The window crank and door handle goes Silver. Set this aside for now to finish the body.

9 PIC 32 PIC 33 The body is ready to paint and finish for the next step. Being this car is Metallic Blue in real life and the body is molded in the correct color you can decide to just detail paint and decal the car or re-finish it with your paint. I decided for this review to paint the body. First I will wet sand the whole body and parts with 800 grit paper. All the parts will be primed fully inside and out and wet sanded again with 800 grit paper. PIC 34 PIC 35 Once the car is in the base Metallic Blue. I will Bare Metal Foil the car prior to installing the decals. I used a custom paint mix that was mixed to be a deeper Blue than factory color Ford Maui Blue. As this was scrap paint I have on hand I do not have the mix code or color ratios. Bare Metal Foil Application is a little on the tricky side if not done slowly. Here is a method I use: It is VERY IMPORTANT that you use a BRAND NEW #11 blade in your hobby knife, and keep a few extras handy as all you are using is the very end of the tip point. From the foil sheet cut a strip twice the width and about ¼ inch longer than the detail you intend to cover using a sharp set of regular scissors. I then peel the foil off of the backer sheet and lightly lay it on the detail area. Using my finger I will slowly slide along the detail area smoothing the foil lightly, then a second time more firmly to press it into place. Using a Q-Tip I burnish the foil onto the detail area only. I then use a toothpick that has been tapped on the table to dull the tip and run that along the outside edge of the details I intend to cut the foil around. After the detail area is defined and the foil is smooth and burnished on I slowly cut around the edge with the hobby knife. If you feel the knife snag or grab the foil CHANGE THE BLADE, it will rip your foil very easily. Now you can strip all excess foil away. You can peel the excess loose leaving just your detailed part covered. I then burnish it again with a Q-Tip. You can do foil work in sections as it is thin enough that when burnished it will mold itself into looking like one piece. Most people Bare Metal Foil AFTER clear coating the car, I prefer to clear coat over the foil so it will never move as my cars tend to get handled.

10 PIC 36 PIC 37 Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on the car you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it Floats loosely on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The purpose is to soften the decals to help them conform to the contours of the body and lay smooth. To apply Micro Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the part where you are going to apply the decal. Next apply the decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal. Blot the decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel so as not to move it and allow it to dry. For a tougher decal like the roof panel apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to the decal. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly work any creases or blemishes in the decal out with a Q-tip or damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to damage the decal. A second coat of Micro-Sol can be added if needed. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. Let the decals cure at least overnight before applying your clear coat. PIC 38 Installing the Photoetch is a real issue on this car. The script is very tiny and the backing paper overly tacky. What I found to be the easiest way to do it is use a new #11 blade in my hobby knife and Pledge Floor Care. With a Q-tip put a small dab of the Pledge where you want to apply the script. With the #11 blade peel the script VERY CAREFULLY off of the backer sheet. Apply the script face up on the part in place and with the tip of the blade maneuver the script to where you want it. Let this dry thoroughly before handling it. The script is very, very, tiny so take your time to do this.

11 PIC 39 Prior to assembly I want to give the glass a thinner crisper look. I will dip the parts into Pledge Floor Care. When applied to both side of a piece of clear polystyrene, it will make glass appear thinner and clearer. It will help to hide minor scratches also. Simply pour some Pledge into a small container and dip your clear glass into it. It's a kind of magic; it will self-level and make the part clearer! After you dip the part, be sure to place a cover over it to prevent dust from collecting on it. Place the parts on a sheet of paper towel to cure, the paper towel will draw out the excess Pledge and Wick it off the parts so it does not accumulate at the edges leaving an unwanted build up. PIC 40 PIC 41 Once the Body is cured and the glass is cured resume assembly on the inside of the car. The side glass and rear view mirror are installed. Also paint the grille Aluminum and install it. PIC 42 PIC 43 The bumpers are Silver and installed on the rear. Paint the tag mount White and attach the tag to it with Elmer s Glue. Attach that to the body. Now carefully start at the rear and shoehorn the chassis into place in the body. This is a tight fit and no glue is needed. PIC 44 Once the body and chassis are in place you can see the motor through the opening where the deck lid goes.

12 PIC 45 PIC 46 Final rear assembly starts now. I used a Silver Sharpie to highlight the window molding on the rear glass. The Lights have Silver Sharpie used for the housings and the brake lights are painted Stop Light Red with the blinkers and the accessory light painted Turn Signal Orange. Attach the door handles in place. Install the rear window. Install the rear vents and shrouds. Install the tail lights, accessory light and tag light to the rear. PIC 47 PIC 48 Finish the front end now. The windshield has a molding that is painted with a Silver Sharpie before installing. Install the wipers and drivers mirror. Paint the bumpers Silver and install. The bumperettes are Silver with Black pads and are installed. The tag mount is Black and the tag is glued on with Elmer s glue and installed. The blinkers are Turn Signal Orange and installed. The inner fog light bezel and headlight bezel are Black outside with a yellow dot in the center. Add the lenses and install. The headlights have an outer clear cover that is installed and then DECALS 18, 19, 20 and 21 are used. Finally the external fog lights are painted Black and assembled. Install those in place on the car. Note: I used Elmer s Glue on all clear parts. The car is now completed and the only remaining parts are noted in the instructions as not used, parts B11 and B12 and any Decals for the alternate race number 22.

13 999 OVERALL IMPRESSIONS:I gotta say this was a neat build. Assembly was simple and quite solid. The motor fit together well and set in place with no issues. The suspension is solid and simple. The interior is very basic but decals are used heavily on the dash which is a plus to me. The chassis was straight and fit correctly into the body with no complaints. The body was a one piece unit with the deck lid separate so it paints easily. Decals are always a bear on race cars but the quality of Cartograf decals makes it a breeze. The finished car is TINY for 1/24 scale, but so is the real car. I like this build and feel Tamiya did a good job with the kit. On a scale of 1 to 10 I d give it a 9.