X-Type w/ non-premium sound amplifier installation instructions

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1 X-Type w/ non-premium sound amplifier installation instructions 1. Pull radio from dash (see Radio Removal Instructions ) 2. Disconnect wiring harness from back of radio by pushing in tab on plug and pulling (be patient). 3. Peel back 6 or more of the black cloth wrapped around the harness. 4. Create wiring harness- cut 4 lengths of 18 gauge speaker wire (speaker wire will have two wires connected together for +/-) to run from the radio to the amp s speaker level input & cut 4 lengths of 14 gauge wire (or whatever was included in your amp install kit which you should purchase) to run from the amp back to the wires that go to the speakers. Add a single additional wire (usually supplied with kit- but use just about any gauge wire you like- I used a 16 gauge green wire to keep it separated from the speaker wires). Most amps need some sort of signal to tell them to turn on. You ll use the extra wire for this purpose. If you are installing the amp under the passenger seat, the length of each set needs to be about 5. Use plastic ties to group the harness together every foot or so along its length. IMPORTANT- use masking tape to label each end of the wires. For example, I used RF Amp for right front to amp to label both ends of the thinner wires that go from the radio harness to the amp, and LR Sp for left rear to speaker for the thicker wires that would be going from the amp to the speakers 5a. Run the main power supply line- This is the thick red cord provided in your amp install kit. If yours is like mine, there is a cylindrical fuse holder about a foot away from a circular washer connector. There is an extremely convenient bolt to which this can be attached right near the battery (see picture). Remove the battery cover (to give you space to maneuver). Then, pop the fuse from its housing, use a socket to take the bolt out, and secure the fuse holder using the bolt. IMPORTANT- do NOT connect the power supply line at this point (I put the washer connector around the battery hold down post just to ensure it wouldn t accidentally touch the positive terminal before I was ready).

2 5b. Run the main power supply line- Feed the loose end of the power cord as inconspicuously as possible along the driver s side fenderwall (I ran mine under a lot of other harnesses and such to the point where you can hardly tell its there). When you arrive at the firewall, take the loose end and double it over. Take a stiff wire (like a coat hanger) and double it over as well. Interconnect the two and use electrical (or duct) tape to securely fasten them together. 5c. Run the main power supply line- Now take a long Phillip s head screwdriver and gently punch a hole in the rubber harness surround located in the firewall right in front of the driver (see picture)- just be careful when punching through the rubber not to chew into the existing wiring harness (but you do have to push fairly hard to punch through- just try to keep to the bottom right of the harness and you won t damage it- using the Phillip s head makes it less likely you ll cut into the harness). Once you ve created a hole with the screwdriver, take the loose end of your stiff wire and push it through the hole- push it about a foot if you can. Now, go inside the car and look up under the dash. You should be able to see that wire somewhere (the stiff wire should be about 3 long- you re going to use it later as well). Gently pull on the wire until you feel resistance- this occurs when the large knob formed by the doubled over red wire hits the rubber plug. Now, get a good grip and gradually increase the pull with a consistent force (don t yank at it). Just about the time you re ready to swear, you ll feel the wire pop through the rubber. Pull the rest of the wire and the red cord through the hole, and go have a drink. 5d. Run the main power supply line- Now use plastic ties to connect the red cord under the driver s side of the dash and then work the loose end up into the radio cavity. I connected my line to a harness that sits right near where the line runs through the firewall, and then connected it alongside the back of what seems to be heater vents. IMPORTANT- Run the power line on TOP of your pedals to avoid interfering with clutch, accelator, or the brake 6. Combine the power supply line with the harness- Take the harness you ve created and use plastic ties to attach it to the red supply line at the point where it exits the hole left by the radio (you should have at least 5 of red power supply line left at this point, so just connect the red line to the speaker lines using plastic ties every foot or so).

3 7a. Run the speaker harness- Take the same stiff wire you used to pull the main power supply and connect it in a similar fashion to your harness. Feed the stiff wire down alongside the driveshaft hump on the passenger side (straight down for now). First, you ll want to remove the Phillip s head screw that holds the cloth panel to the driveshaft hump on the passenger side (located just in front of the seat). OPTIONAL- Just to give myself room, I removed the passenger front seat from its mountings. It takes 5 minutes tops and does give you a lot of extra room to work. Put the seat back until you can get to the front bolts. Then use a 10mm socket to remove the two bolts that secure the front of the tracks. Then, use a Phillips head to remove the black plastic covers that cover the rear bolts (there are two on each side- all are 10mm). Then, just lift the entire seat and move it towards the back (there is a harness that will remain connected- it will stay out of the way, however). The other advantage of removing the seat is it gives you access to a handy grounding point at the end of the project. 7b. Run the speaker harness- When you remove the Phillip s head screw from the side of the driveshaft hump, you can feel a square bracket underneath where the screw mounts. Use the stiff wire to pull the harness through that bracket and conceal the wires up under the carpeted cover. Then pull the harness down from under the cover. 8. Connect the power on lead- The amp draws quite a bit of juice, so you only want it operating when the car is running (IMHO). It has always irritated me that the lighter power supply is only active when the car is running- but now we ll use that to our advantage. Locate the two little plugs that were disconnected from the lighter. One of the plugs has two wires (orange and black). Use your voltmeter to make sure that orange line only receives power when the key is in the run position (ground the black lead of your meter and shove the red lead into the receptacle for the orange line- it should read 0.00 when the key is off and 13 or so volts when the key is in the run position). Strip away a little insulation from this wire and connect the single line in your harness (in my case, the green line). Then, connect the other end of the harness to the power on input on the amp. You ve just connected the first wire in your harness (time for another drink).

4 8. Make connections at the radio- The harness that hooks up to the radio contains about 16 wires or so. The speaker wires stand out because you ll notice they are twisted into pairs of two a few inches from the plug. In my car, all of the speaker positives were white (front left +) or white with a stripe and all the negatives were yellow (front left +) or yellow with a stripe. Cut one set of speaker wires at a time, starting with the solid yellow and white wires that are twisted together (there are other solid yellow wires that are not speaker wires, but these should be the wires to the front left speaker). Once you ve made the cut, you can be SURE you have the right wires by taking a 9 volt battery and touching the ends that run to the speaker to the battery (yellow wire to the negative battery terminal and the white wire to the positive). You should hear a crackling interference noise coming from the right front speaker. Now, connect the wires you labeled Left Front- to amp to the wires that are coming out of the radio plug. These should be the thinner wires, and will probably have an aluminum colored side and a copper colored side- use the aluminum colored side for the positive connection and the copper colored side for the minus connection (follow this pattern for all speakers). Then, connect the thicker wires you labeled Left Front- to sp to wires that disappear into the cloth wrapped harness. In my amp hookup kit, the supplied wires had a light grey and dark grey side- use the lighter side for positive connections and the darker side for negative connections (follow this pattern throughout). Solder the connections and wrap with electrical tape (or use shrink wrap). Repeat for the other three speakers, testing each set with the 9v battery to ensure which speaker you are working with- remember, the speaker wires are twisted into sets of two and just cut one speaker at a time. 9. Re-install radio (follow the process in the Radio Removal Instructions in reverse). 10. Make connections at the amp- We re almost home! I used an Alpine 4 channel amp for my set-up, and it fit very nicely in the space under the passenger front seat. First, I took the entire harness (including the red main power line) and snipped it to leave about 1.5 of play (so I can slide the amp out from under the seat to the rear when I want to make adjustments). First, I hooked up the main power supply. Then, hook up all the thinner lines which are the speaker inputs (which should be labeled to amp ). Usually, channel 1 is your left front, channel 2 is your right front, channel 3 is your left rear, and channel 4 is your right rear- but your amp instructions will tell you for sure. Just make the connections- making sure to pay attention to polarity (the aluminum colored wires go to positive- the copper to negative). Next, connect the thicker lines to the out side of the amp (these should be labeled to speakers ). Just because I m paranoid, I double checked my labels (and the integrity of the connections) by repeating the 9v battery test).

5 11. Connect Ground and re-install seat- Next, connect the ground. I chose to attach the ground to the left front bolt that attaches the seat frame. IMPORTANT- You need to lightly sand away the paint around the bolt hole to ensure you get a good ground. Just feed the bolt through the seat frame and put the washer connector around the bolt- then bolt it loosely into place. Be careful with the way the harness goes around the front of the seat rack. Just feed it around the front (you could go through, but if you ever remove the seat you ll need to unhook the amp). When you install the seat, you won t even see the wiring at all. Leave the amp sitting on the rear passenger floorboard until you ve made your adjustments. Also, I took a piece of plastic (actually the backing from my amp install kit) and formed a shield to direct the flow of air from the heater vents (I assume that s what they are) up and over the amp instead of directly on it- no sense in heating the amp, plus it will keep the wire that adjusts the seat position from scraping the amp. If you adjusted the seat at all after removing it, you ll notice the tracks do not line up on the left and rightjust readjust the seat till they do. Put all the bolts back in the seat, attach the plastic covers, and you re almost home! 12. Connect the main power- Go back under the hood, and connect the main power line to the little bolt behind the main battery hook up (about 1 behind the main positive terminal). If your kit is like mine, you can just get the battery cover back on. There was a small spark when I connected mine and I thought great, I just fried something. However, apparently that s just a capacitor filling up or something. 13. With the radio off, start the car- Before tinkering around with the levels, just go ahead and start the car. I made the mistake of turning the key to the on position and enjoying the new sound for about 30 minutes. Then, when I asked the wife to come out and go for a drive, I was a bit embarrassed when the car wouldn t start! All that time opening and closing the doors has made your interior lights fire for a whileand if you just sit there with the car in run and your amp drawing power- well, just let the car run a while! If you hooked everything up correctly, you should be able to follow the instructions with the amp to get some amazing sound (especially if you swapped speakers- but that will have to be another installment). Hope this goes as easy for you as it did for me- the improvement in sound was incredible. Good luck, Pete

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