RapidLED NanoCube 24 Aurora Array Retrofit

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Beverley Melton
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1 1 RapidLED NanoCube 24 Aurora Array Retrofit Contents Overview... 1 Hood Preparation... 2 Hood Power Wiring Preparation... 3 Fan and AC Adapter Wiring... 5 Heatsink Installation Aurora LED Array Specifications Wiring the Aurora Puck Wiring the Aurora LED Array to Drivers Wiring the Driver to AC Power RapidLED Nano Drivers with Potentiometer (Skip if you have any other driver): Mean Well LDD Drivers (Skip if you have any other driver): Wiring Power Cord to Power Supply Wiring LDD Drivers to Power Supply Connecting LDD Drivers to LED Strings Finishing Up Overview As with any type of lighting retrofit, there are many dangers, difficulties, and pitfalls that may occur. The Nano Cube 24 retrofit should be attempted by people familiar with AC power and wiring, electronics, LEDs, LED Drivers, series circuits, and be comfortable with the fact that this retrofit will require complete disassembly and removal of all contents of the original hood. If you are uncomfortable with or inexperienced at any of the prerequisites required for this retrofit, you should not attempt this retrofit. NOTE: These instructions are for installing the Aurora array in your hood. If you are using the kit with individual LEDs, refer to the instructions located here: JBJ Nanocube 24 Instructions

We will keep the original fans and the two large wires coming out

2 2 Hood Preparation Any and all power wires must be unplugged and disconnected before beginning. We will keep the original fans and the two large wires coming out of the rear of the hood. Everything else will be removed. Start: Reflectors Removed: Switch Removal:

Finish: Hood Power Wiring Preparation We will be utilizing one of the original (two rear) power wires in the hood.

3 3 To remove the switch, press in with a flat blade screwdriver at the edges as indicated by the arrows and gently wiggle it out of the socket. You will have to remove the red wiring to get it out of the hood. Finish: Hood Power Wiring Preparation We will be utilizing one of the original (two rear) power wires in the hood. Remove the other power cable, the hole will be used to run the driver jumpers from the array to the drivers. First step is to strip off about inches of the outermost jacket material from the end of the wire do not strip the ends off of any of the individual wires yet. Be sure you do not damage or cut the protective jacket of

You can cut off the brown, blue and green wires, they will not be used in this

4 the inner wires when stripping off the black power wire jacket that encompasses the 5 inner wires. You can cut off the brown, blue and green wires, they will not be used in this installation (hood shown below has two cables, your hood will have one): 4 Next, we do the same for the opposite end of the power wire: First, cut the end off of the power wire:

Next, strip off the outermost jacket that encompasses the 5 inner wires, being careful to not damage or cut any of the inner 5 wires (hood shown below has two cables, your hood will have one).

5 Next, strip off the outermost jacket that encompasses the 5 inner wires, being careful to not damage or cut any of the inner 5 wires (hood shown below has two cables, your hood will have one). You can cut off the blue, green and brown wires: 5 Fan and AC Adapter Wiring In this step we will install the fans. We will use the original fans and add one additional fan for cross-flow ventilation. For wiring, we will wire the included AC adapter to one of the original power wires and then wire the fans to the same wire. The final result has an AC adapter attached to one end and 3 fans attached to the other. Step 1: Cut off the original fan connectors and strip each fan wire. Do this for both original fans.

6 Step 2: The Vantec fan includes an adapter.

Step 3: Cut the end off of the AC adapter.

6 6 Step 2: The Vantec fan includes an adapter. Cut the end off of it and strip a little bit of wire off of each end. The red wire is positive (+), the black wire is negative (-). Step 3: Cut the end off of the AC adapter. Step 4: Strip a little bit of wire off of the end of the AC adapter wire. Note which wire is positive on the AC adapter and which wire is negative.

7 No dashes indicate negative ( ) AC adapter wire White dashes indicate positive (+) AC adapter wire

We chose the right cable bundle (with the back of the hood facing our body).

Once you decide which wires you will use, strip off both ends of each wire.

Take one of the included wire nuts and wire the four positive (+) wires together.

7 7 No dashes indicate negative ( ) AC adapter wire White dashes indicate positive (+) AC adapter wire Step 5: In this step, use the original power cable bundle to wire the fans. We chose the right cable bundle (with the back of the hood facing our body). Within the right cable, we used the white wire as + and the black wire as -. Once you decide which wires you will use, strip off both ends of each wire. Step 6: Now we wire the fan cables together. Take one of the included wire nuts and wire the four positive (+) wires together. The wires are: 1) white wire from the power cable, 2) red wire from the 1 st original fan, 3) red wire from the 2 nd original fan, 4) red wire from the Vantec fan adapter. After we wire the reds, we do the same for all black fan wires, connecting them to the black power wire with a wire nut.

8 8

In our example the white power wire and the dashed wire from the AC adapter are positive

9 Step 7: Now that the inside wiring is done, we will wire the AC adapter to the outside wires. Simply wire nut the positive and negative wires together. In our example the white power wire and the dashed wire from the AC adapter are positive (+) and should be wired together. The negative (-) wires are the black power wire and the AC adapter non-dashed wire. 9

10 Your fans are now completely wired. If you want, try them out and make sure they work! Heatsink Installation The heatsink attaches to the plastic posts already in the hood via 4 screws.

10 10 Your fans are now completely wired. If you want, try them out and make sure they work! Heatsink Installation The heatsink attaches to the plastic posts already in the hood via 4 screws. The screws are the large screws included with the kit. Tighten gently until heatsink is snug. Tightening them more than this may strip out the plastic screw bosses in the hood at which point you will have fill the stripped bosses with a hard glue or epoxy and drill them back out so the screw will grip again or find some other solution. Over tightening may also snap the screw bosses from the hood, in which case, you will have to attempt repair with super glue.

11 11

the driver jumpers and terminal plugs to the array.

12 12 Aurora LED Array Specifications The Array has 4 channels: o Blue (1000mA max) - 4 XT-E Royal Blue + 3 XP-E Blue o Color (700mA max) - 2 XP-E Green + 1 XP-E Blue + 2 XP-E Red + 1 XP-E Red-Orange o White (1500mA max) - 4 XP-G Cool White o UV (700mA max) 4 SemiLEDs Violet UV Wiring the Aurora Puck In this step, we will connect the driver jumpers and terminal plugs to the array. First, insert 4 terminal plugs into the 2-pin sockets on the edge labeled Connect to second array or Plug before Applying Power. They will snap in and be difficult to remove if fully inserted. Give them a little tug (monkey tug, not gorilla tug) to ensure they do not fall out.

13 Attaching Aurora LED Array to Heatsink To attach the Aurora LED Array to the heatsink, we will use the backside of the array and mix Parts A and B of the thermal adhesive directly on it.

13 Next, on the opposite end, insert one driver jumper into each of the 2-pin sockets on the edge labeled with the colors Blue, Color, White, and UV. As with the terminal plugs, these should snap in and not fall out. Give them a gentle tug (monkey tug, not gorilla tug) and ensure they do not fall out. 13 Attaching Aurora LED Array to Heatsink To attach the Aurora LED Array to the heatsink, we will use the backside of the array and mix Parts A and B of the thermal adhesive directly on it. Note that the thermal adhesive, once mixed, has a working time of approximately 5 minutes. If the thermal adhesive hardens before you adhere it to the heatsink, you will need to sand the backside of your Aurora LED array with fine grit sandpaper (600 to 1000) to remove the adhesive and start over. We have found using a double cross works well. To begin, apply Part A of the thermal adhesive to the back of the array in a cross pattern as shown:

14 Apply Part B next to Part A on the back of the array in a similar pattern: Using a paddle, mix the 2 parts together to make a thin, even

You do need to cover the parts underneath all LEDs to ensure proper cooling of the LEDs in the array.

After you have mixed the adhesive on the underside, flip the array over, place it on the heatsink in its final location, and press down firmly

14 14 Apply Part B next to Part A on the back of the array in a similar pattern: Using a paddle, mix the 2 parts together to make a thin, even layer. You do not need to spread the thermal adhesive across the entire underside of the array. You do need to cover the parts underneath all LEDs to ensure proper cooling of the LEDs in the array. Once again, after mixing both Parts A and B together working time before hardening is approximately 5 minutes. After you have mixed the adhesive on the underside, flip the array over, place it on the heatsink in its final location, and press down firmly on the mounting holes. Do not press down on the LEDs themselves (the LEDs should not be touched, but will not die if you do touch them.) Allow the adhesive to set for approximately 1 hour before attempting to move the array. If the adhesive is not set properly your

15 15 array may slip and you will have to redo the thermal adhesive to ensure proper thermal conductivity between the array and the heatsink. The array will look like this on the heatsink: Wiring the Aurora LED Array to Drivers The Aurora LED Array is compatible with many driver choices. Contact RapidLED with any questions not covered by this document. Included below are instructions for using Mean Well LPC, LDD, and RapidLED Nano drivers. We do not recommend using any type of switches/quick connects on the DC (LED) portion of the set-up. ***DO NOT APPLY POWER TO ANY COMPONENTS BEFORE ALL CONNECTIONS AND WIRING ARE COMPLETE OR YOU RISK BURNING OUT THE LEDs IN YOUR ARRAY(S).*** You will be using the hole where the power cable was removed to run the driver jumpers to the drivers. Mean Well LPC Drivers (Skip if you have any other driver): For LPC drivers, use wire nuts to connect the V+ from a driver to the first red wire of the driver jumper for the first channel. Then connect the V- from the same driver to corresponding black wire on that driver jumper. Repeat for the other 3 drivers and driver jumpers.

16 Wiring the Driver to AC Power The AC Line and Neutral, or ACL and ACN wires, which are brown and blue, connect to the power cord included in our kits.

Order is not important because AC current alternates. Obviously, this step is dangerous because you are working with 120AC current.

16 16 Wiring the Driver to AC Power The AC Line and Neutral, or ACL and ACN wires, which are brown and blue, connect to the power cord included in our kits. Strip the white and black wires of the power cord (green is ground and unused) and attach them to the blue and brown wires on the driver with the included moisture resistant wire nuts. Order is not important because AC current alternates. Obviously, this step is dangerous because you are working with 120AC current. Make sure nothing is plugged in and have a licensed electrician assist you with this step. RapidLED Nano Drivers with Potentiometer (Skip if you have any other driver): Using a screwdriver, remove the cover screws from the right side of the Nano driver (the side with the potentiometer) and take off the cover exposing the green screw terminals.

Insert the red driver jumper wire into the V+ jack and tighten the terminal screw until the wire the terminal when lightly tugged on.

17 17 Next, we will insert the red driver jumper wire and black driver jumper into the V+ and V- screw terminals on the Nano driver. To do this, unscrew the V+ and V- terminals and remove any pre-existing wires in those terminals. Make sure not to unscrew the terminal screws too much or the screws will come out. Insert the red driver jumper wire into the V+ jack and tighten the terminal screw until the wire the terminal when lightly tugged on. Repeat with the black driver jumper wire and the V- terminal screw. If you are using an 0-10V analog controller (ie. Apex) instead of the potentiometer, you will repeat these steps for the D+ and D- terminal to remove the potentiometer and to insert the positive and negative dimming wires from the controller. Consult the controller s documentation to identify these wires. With all of the wires attached securely in the terminals, replace the cover on the Nano driver. Repeat these steps for the remaining Nano drivers.

18 Mean Well LDD Drivers (Skip if you have any other driver): Wiring Power Cord to Power Supply Make sure all 3 wires from the power cord are stripped.

18 18 Mean Well LDD Drivers (Skip if you have any other driver): Wiring Power Cord to Power Supply Make sure all 3 wires from the power cord are stripped. Loosen the screw terminals on the right side of the SE power supply, insert the wires into the proper screw terminals and tighten the screws. The green wire must go to ground as pictured below. The white wire should go to N and the black to L. NOTE: If you are using AC power other than VAC, there is a switch on the side of the power supply that must be flipped or you will damage the power supply.

Wiring LDD Drivers to Power Supply Next,

19 Wiring LDD Drivers to Power Supply Next, loosen a screw on the +V and V areas of the power supply. The red Vin + wire goes to a +V screw on the power supply and the black Vin wire goes to a V screw on the power supply. Insert wires and tighten the screws. 19

20 Repeat with the remaining LDD drivers as pictured below. Connecting LDD Drivers to LED Strings Finally, connect the Vout + and wires from one LDD driver to one driver jumper per the diagram below.

The LDD-1000HW drivers will connect to the Blue and White channels ONLY, and the LDD-700HW drivers will be used on the UV and Color channels due to the current limitations of each channel.

20 20 Repeat with the remaining LDD drivers as pictured below. Connecting LDD Drivers to LED Strings Finally, connect the Vout + and wires from one LDD driver to one driver jumper per the diagram below. Repeat this for all 3 remaining LDD drivers and driver jumpers. The LDD-1000HW drivers will connect to the Blue and White channels ONLY, and the LDD-700HW drivers will be used on the UV and Color channels due to the current limitations of each channel. If you are using a PWM controller, connect your controller to the white Dim wire. Other connections might be necessary, so consult your controller s instructions on this wiring. The LDD drivers are only compatible with a controller that outputs a 0-5V PWM dimming signal such as the Storm controller: Finishing Up After all of your wiring is complete, re-attach the plastic cover, power it up and enjoy!

RapidLED Oceanic BioCube 8 Retrofit Contents

RapidLED Oceanic BioCube 8 Retrofit Contents Foreword... 2 Outline... 2 Hood Preparation... 2 Attaching LEDs to Heatsink and Wiring LEDs Together... 6 Thermal Grease... 6 Soldering Notes... 7 Tinning Wire