Z32 Solid Rear Subframe Bushing Installation

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1 Z32 Solid Rear Subframe Bushing Installation Thank you for purchasing a set of Sonic Motorsport (NZ) designed and 300 Degree produced solid subframe bushings! Over time the OEM subframe bushings will fail. They are not a solid rubber bushing, but are silicon filled bushings which allow some lateral movement in the subframe. This movement is a part of the larger problem of rear wheel hop under extreme acceleration the Z32 suffers from with the OEM subframe bushings. This movement also allows for eventual failure in the form of leakage, similar to way the front tension rod bushings fail. The tension rod bushings and subframe bushings share a similar design. We highly recommend replacing the 12 rear suspension bushings (NISMO) and the 4 differential bushings (Energy Suspension) to make the maximum effort to stop wheel hop. Cars outfitted with all of these bushings experience almost no wheel hop and what little is left is not violent like you will experience with the full complement of OEM bushings. This installation is not for the average DIYer. We d have to rate its difficulty as harder then doing a clutch replacement. It is extremely time consuming considering the overall little work that actually gets accomplished. Also, these bushings are a precision fit. If the car has been in any kind of accident, there is a possibility the mount points will not line up again once the subframe has been dropped from the unibody. Everything has to be very close to perfect alignment to allow the subframe to mount back on the studs on the unibody Special tools needed: Two-arm pulley puller (TTs) Hacksaw (with a 32 or 24 teeth per inch blade for cutting hard metal) Dremel with carbide cutting tip Procedure: 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable (1 x 10 mm nut) Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels (10 x 21 mm lug nuts). 3. Pull the parking brake, lift the car far enough to remove the whole exhaust system from precats on TTs or exhaust manifolds on NAs all the way back (about 18 ). Observe all safety precautions, as always, working under a car is hazardous. If using jackstands, place the rear ones on the outside of the lift points on the rear just ahead of the rear tires. Make sure the car is level after it s lifted. 4. Remove the rear wheels (10 x 21 mm lug nuts) Remove the rear brake calipers (4 x 17 mm bolts). Don t disconnect the brake lines, just place something underneath the caliper so it s not dangling by the brake line alone. 6. Remove the undercarriage brace (4 x 12 mm bolts) under the exhausts. Remove the entire exhaust from the precats/manifolds to the mufflers. It s easiest to unbolt it at the mufflers (4 x 17 mm bolts/nuts) and the precats/manifolds (6 x 14 mm nuts). Take the entire center section down as one piece. Then remove each muffler 5.

2 from their rubber hangers (2 x 12 mm bolts and 6 rubber hangers). 7. Remove the metal exhaust heat shield covering the drive shaft (4 x 10 mm nuts & 2 x 10 mm bolts). 8. Make an alignment mark on the center flange of the drive shaft so when reinstalling it, the shaft halves get put back together the way they were before. Failure to do this risks center support bearing failure from driveline vibration. Disconnect the center support bearing from the unibody (2 x 17 mm bolts), be careful not to lose the spacers on the bolts. Unbolt the four bolts that hold the two halves of the drive shaft together (4 x 17 mm nuts). Remove the front half of the drive shaft from the transmission Disconnect the parking brake cable above the drive shaft. The ends of the two cables going to either rear wheel simply slide up and out of the metal bracket. Also unscrew the mounts connecting the cables to the underside of the body (2 x 12 mm bolts/nuts). 10a. For TTs: Separate the HICAS steering rack from the subframe (2 x 19 mm bolts). Using zip ties or rope, tie the HICAS steering rack to the rubber exhaust hangers or anywhere else connected to the body. Take out the cotter pins at the tie rod ends and remove the nut from the HICAS tie rod end (2 x 17 mm nuts) (10.). Using the two-armed pulley puller, pull the HICAS tie rod ends off from the knuckle assemblies. A two-armed puller is required. There s not enough room or proper angles for a three-armed puller. Don t disconnect the fluid lines going to the HICAS steering rack. By hanging it with the zip ties, it stays in place when dropping the subframe. 10b. For TTs: Disconnect the 5 electrical connections on the HICAS rack (Xs in 1.). The two identical small ones on the actuator motor are both grounds. Make sure the wiring harness is totally free of the rack, there are also some small clips holding it in place on the rack/actuator motor c. For all NAs: There is no HICAS to have to manage. 11. Disconnect the bottoms of the rear shocks from the hub assemblies (2 x 17 mm nuts & bolts) 12. Put the jack back under the differential with the jack s cup as far forward as possible (making contact with the front of the subframe while the cup is still on the differential) this is the basic balance point for the subframe. Although it can be done solo, we recommend getting some extra hands to manage the subframe while lowering it. It is NOT light and can cause serious damage to person or property if it s allowed to fall off the jack. Remove the two front subframe bracket bolts (4 x 14 mm). LOOSEN (do NOT remove) the four 17 mm nuts holding the subframe bushings in place. Once all four bushing nuts are loosened, the only thing keeping the subframe in place is the jack. 13. Remove all four bushing nuts with their spacers/brackets and slowly lower the whole subframe/differential/shock assembly about FOUR TO SIX INCHES. This allows enough room to disconnect the ABS sensor connector on the upper passenger side of the subframe (right X in 2.). Disconnect the differential breather hose from the upper fitting if the car is equipped with one (left X in 2.). CAREFULLY lower the subframe the rest of the way to the ground. Also be careful not to jostle the HICAS steering rack or brake calipers while lowering the subframe. Once lowered, roll the whole assembly out from under the car on the

3 jack. Plug the differential breather hose. 14. Put the rear wheels back on the axle. Snug them down by hand (10 x 12 mm lug nuts) (3.). 15. Remove the 4 OEM subframe bushings. It s easier to dismantle the bushings if the internal structure is known (see attached diagram). The center metal sleeve is suspended (e) to the outer metal shell (a) by the rubber (b) on the top and bottom. Halfway down the center metal bushing (e) is a star of metal extending close to the outer metal shells. The rubber on the top and bottom is ~1/2 thick and is connected directly to the center sleeve (e), then is connected to metal bands (c) on the top or bottom side depending, and that is pressed into the metal outer shell (d). The outer shell consists of two layers of metal (a & d), one of which (a) has the inner lip on the bottom. The inner area is filled with liquid silicon, and the center metal sleeve floats in it. When the bushing is totally removed, all that will be left is the black steel loop seen plainly from the outside (8.). Cover the floor under the bushing to be removed with cardboard, or some other disposable covering. The bushings have to be cut out (and/or burned) and since they are silicon filled, the fluid will end up on the ground. We recommend the following technique for removal of the subframe bushings: Use a 2 1/8 hole saw (Blue Mole Aggressor, deep cup). Cut through the rubber on the top and bottom. The deep cup style hole saw will have enough reach to penetrate the rubber s depth. With the wheels on the subframe, it should be simple to flip the whole assembly by pivoting it on the axles to access the bottoms of the bushings, etc. Pound the center sleeve out with a mallet (4.). It will require quite a bit of abuse to force it through the upper or lower metal capturing band. Be careful not to bend the outer loop of the subframe (unlikely at this point, but possible). After the center sleeve and the silicon filling is removed and drained, use a wire brush to clean a vertical strip on the inside of the outer shells (5.). Preferably at a point in the subframe where the subframe is backing the bushing s loop. Use a Dremel tool with a carbide tip or some other instrument of subtle destruction to cut through the upper and lower bands (6.). When they are cut, use a cold chisel and get between the band and the outer shells, bend the band in and pull it out of the outer shells. Cut 2 slots in the top lip of the outer shells so when chiseling them away from the subframe they will bend easier. Carefully use the same technique on the two outer shells (7.). Keep in mind they are riveted together when chiseling the first one out. Just be extremely careful when removing the outermost shell to not cut through or deeply into the subframe itself (making the cuts with the subframe backing the loop makes this less dangerous to the integrity of the subframe bushing loops). Picture 9. shows the metal bands after being removed Inspect the bushing loops for roundness, a ball peen hammer can be used to gently reshape the loops. They have to be almost perfectly round, or the solid bushings will not fit. Carefully place the solid bushings in each loop. Use a deadblow plastic faced mallet and pound the bushings into place until the lips on the solid bushings are against the subframe bushing loops, fully seated (11.). They are precision fit, if it requires a lot of force and the edges of the bushing is peeling back, the loop is not round, or the bushing is not going straight down into the loop. On 1994 and newer models, refer to step 10a to remove the HICAS tie rod ends from the rear hubs to get access to the lower rear solid subframe bushings. 17. Remove the wheels again (10 x 21 mm lug nuts). 18. Move the subframe back into position under the car, use the jack to lift it back into place on the four large studs on the unibody. Reconnect the rear shocks (2 x 17 mm nuts & bolts) as the subframe is being lifted. Make sure not to catch the ABS

4 or HICAS wiring on top of the subframe as it s going back up. Hand tighten the nuts holding the subframe to the unibody (4 x 17 mm nuts). Use the provided washers on the rear solid mounts (instead of using the OEM spacers pictured in 12.). Replace the front subframe brackets (4 x 14 mm) (13.). Do not fully tighten the 4 subframe nuts or bracket bolts or torque them yet. Torque the shock bottom bolts to ft-lbs (2 x 17 mm nuts and bolts). 19. Reconnect the ABS electronics. If equipped, unplug the differential breather tube and reconnect it to the outlet on the unibody. 20. On TTs, reconnect the HICAS; electrically on 1994 and newer, or physically on Torque the rack mounting bolts (2 x 19 mm bolts) to ft-lbs. Do not connect the rod ends yet. 21. Reconnect the parking brake cables to the underside of the body (2 x 12 mm bolts/nuts). Reconnect the two parking brake cables above where the drive shaft would be to the parking brake handle cable/bracket. 22. Replace the front half of the drive shaft into the transmission. Reconnect the drive shaft halves, using the alignment mark to get everything back as it was before (4 x 17 mm nuts & bolts). Torque the drive shaft bolts to ft-lbs for the NA drive shaft and ft-lbs for the TT drive shaft using the parking brake to hold the drive shaft still. Bolt the center support bearing back in place (2 x 17 mm bolts). Don't forget the spacers that go in-between the center support bearing and the body mounts. Torque the center support bearing bolts to ft-lbs. 23. Replace the exhaust heat shield (4 x 10 mm nuts & 2 x 10 mm bolts). 24. Re-hang the mufflers from the rubber mounts and bolts (2 x 12 mm bolts & 6 rubber hangers). 25. Replace the entire center exhaust assembly (6 x 14 & 4 x 17 mm) using new gaskets, reusable metal gaskets or Permatex Copper Ultra Seal silicon. Torque the front nuts to ft-lbs, the rear nuts to ft-lbs. Replace the undercarriage brace (4 x 12 mm bolts). 26. Replace the rear brake calipers (4 x 17 mm bolts). Torque to ft-lbs. Replace the rear wheels again. Hand tighten the lugs (10 x 21 mm lug nuts). 27. Lower the car back to the ground, reconnect the negative terminal of the battery. 28. Torque the subframe bushing nuts (4 x 17 mm) to ft-lbs. Torque the front subframe bracket bolts to ft-lbs. Torque the lug nuts (10 x 21 mm) to 78 ft-lbs in a skip 1 pattern. 29. On TTs, torque the HICAS tie rod ends (2 x 17 mm nuts) to ft-lbs and replace the cotter pins (10.). Hammer the rod ends on with a mallet onto the interference taper to allow the 17mm nuts to tighten properly. If required, lift the rear of the car up slightly to pivot the rear hubs. Originally published Degree-all rights reserved 2001 All merchandise manufactured by 300 Degree is warranted against defects in workmanship and materials. If an item is suspected of being defective, return it within thirty days from the shipping date on your package to 300 Degree for inspection after obtaining a proper Return Material Authorization. If an item is determined to be defective, we will repair or replace it at our discretion. Items damaged by improper installation will not be covered by any warranty. This product is designed for off-road use. It is considered a racing part and carries no warranty, either expressed or implied, as we have no control over how they are installed or used. On warranty items, repair / replacements will be limited to parts manufactured by 300 Degree and will not include claims for labor, inconvenience or any other claim. Damage claims caused by the use of any 300 Degree products are expressly denied. This warranty is expressly made in lieu of any and all other warranties expressed or implied, including the warranties of merchantability and fitness.

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