WORKSHOP MANUAL EDITION 1956

Transcription

1 WORKSHOP MANUAL EDITION 1956

2 IMPORTANT NOTE IMPORTANT NOTE Each time the vehicle is serviced or repaired, please carry out the following work: 1. Clean the filter und the air inlet pipes, und oil the air filter well. 2. Clean und grease the chain. Use only Univis KR 29 B" Special chain Grease for the chain. (Normal chain greases are not suitable, since they drip off at the temperatures attained). 3. Check the ignition. (See page 3 for scooters without a starter, und page 64 for scooters with a starter). Copyrights The Dürkopp Diana Workshop Manual is a reconstruction of the original edition from The Workshop Manual including all its illustrations is protected by copyright. Utilization beyond the limits of the copyright without consent of the Durkopp Diana Info Point ( is prohibited and liable to prosecution. This includes copies, translations, microfilms, its input and its edition in electronical systems. Dürkopp is registered trademark of the Dürkopp Fördertechnik GmbH and the Dürkopp-Adler AG. Other trademarks or productnames used in this document are trademarks of their respective owners. 2 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

3 BRIEF DETAILS BRIEF DETAILS (For DIANA scooter with Kickstarter only) (With electric starter see page 64) Tyre pressures: Front 0.8 to 1.0 atm (11 to 14 lb/sq in) Back, solo 1.5 to 2.0 atm (21 to 28 lb/sq in) Back, with pillion passenger (32 to 35 lb/sq in) 2.25 to 2.5 atm Gearbox oil capacity: 1 litre (1 ¾ pints) SAE oil Sparking plug: 14-mm. Heat range Ignition timing: mm (0.16 to 0.18 in) before TDC, with contact-breaker gap of 0.3 to 0.4 mm (0.012 to in) Carburetter: Main jet 105 Needle position 3 Needle jet 2.66 Pilot jet 45 Pilot air screw 1 ½ turns open Lighting system: Twin-filament bulb 25/25-watt, 6-volt Parking light 1.5-watt, 6-volt Rear light 1.5-watt, 6-volt Speedometer Illumination 0.6-watt, 6-volt Fuse: In charging circuit, 1-amp. Battery: 6-volt, 7-amp. hr., type 6 B 6, with funnel. Driving chain: Roller chain, 12.7 x 7.75 mm (78 links including spring link) Durkopp Diana Info Point,

4 BRIEF DETAILS 4 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

5 CONTENT CONTENT TECHNICAL DATA... 7 A TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION... 9 B ENGINE MAINTENANCE Adjusting the Clutch Sparking Plug and Timing the Ignition Cleaning the Jets and the Carburetter Cleaning the Air Filter Adjusting the Idling Speed Changing the Oil in the Gearbox Decarbonising the Combustion Chamber C FRAME MAINTENANCE Adjusting Brakes Tyre Pressures Greasing Electrical Equipment Adjusting the Headlamp Adjusting Steering-Head Bearings Adjusting Kickstarter Care of the Chain Adjusting the Chain Tension Springe, Shock Absorbers, und Bearings for Swinging Arms Saddle Paintwork D ENGINE REPAIRS NOT NECESSITATING REMOVAL OF ENGINE FROM FRAME Removing and Fitting Cylinder and Piston: Removing and Fitting the Flywheel Magneto and Generator Removing and Fitting Fan and Clutch Adjusting the Neutral-Gear Selection Mechanism E FRAME REPAIRS Removing and Fitting Rear Swinging Arm Removing and Fitting Rear-Wheel Bearing and Brake: Removing and Fitting Rear Suspension Unit Removing and Fitting Front Swinging Arm Removing and Fitting Handlebars und Steering Column Removing and Fitting a Handlebar Bend in the Handlebar Centre Unit Removing and Fitting Fuel Tank Removing and Fitting Rear Panelling Removing and Fitting Exhaust System Removing and Fitting Lower Frame Section Durkopp Diana Info Point,

6 CONTENT Removing and Fitting Control Cables und Speedometer Flexible Shaft Removing and Fitting Core of Speedometer Flexible Shaft F REMOVING ENGINE FROM FRAME G DISMANTLING THE ENGINE Removing Fan Removing Magneto and Generator Removing Cylinder and Piston Removing Clutch and Primary Chain Splitting the Crankcase Dismantling Gearbox Dismantling Foot-Change Mechanism H ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE Preparations for Fitting a New Crankshaft Fitting Foot-Change and Neutral-Selection Mechanism Assembling the Gearbox Fitting the Crankshaft Assembling Crankcase Sections Fitting Primary Chain and Clutch Fitting Piston and Cylinder Fitting the Magneto and Dynamo Fitting the Fan I FITTING THE ENGINE J SPECIAL TOOLS Special Assembly Stand for Engine Special Tools to be Made Locally K ATTACHING A SIDECAR Attachment I Attachment II Attachment III Fitting the Steering Damper Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

7 0 TECHNICAL DATA TECHNICAL DATA Length: 1835 mm (72 1 / 4 in) Height: 1015 mm (40 in) Width: 700 mm (27 1 / 4 in) Weight: 138 kg (304 Ib) Permissible total weight: 288 kg (635 Ib) Permissible total weight with sidecar: 340 kg (750 Ib) Wheelbase: 1290 mm (50 3 / 4 in) Ground clearance: 120 mm (4 3 / 4 in) Engine: Single-cylinder two-stroke throttled engine. Light-alloy cylinder with inserted liner. Stroke: 61 mm Bore: 64 mm Capacity: 194 cc Compression ratio: 6.5:1 Output: 9.5 h.p. at 5500 r.p.m. Lubrication: By petroil mixture. 25 Parts of petrol to 1 part of oil Carburetter: Bing double-lever carburetter with 26-mm dia. Throat and wet air filter. Main jet 105; needle jet 2.66; needle position 3; Pilot jet 45; Pilot air screw 1 ½ turns open Ignition: Noris ULZVS 25/30 L flywheel magneto and generator Ignition timing: mm (0.16 to 0.18 in) before TDC with contact breaker gap of 0.3 to 0.4 mm (0.012 to in) Sparking plug: 14 mm. Heat range 225 to 240 Cooling: By fan mounted on crankshaft Clutch: Multi-plate clutch running in oil bath Gearbox: Four-speed gearbox. Neutral engaged by kickstarter pedal. Gear ratios: Bottom gear = 2.94 : 1 3rd gear = 1.25 : 1 2nd gear = 1.72 : 1 Top gear = 1.00 : 1 Gear-change mechanism: Single-Pedal foot-change mechanism Power transmission: Primary drive, crankshaft - gearbox, by sheet-roller chain, 2.35 : 1 reduction; secondary drive, gearbox- rear wheel, by roller chain, 2.07 : 1 reduction Overall gear ratio, crankshaft - rear wheel: Top gear, 4.86 : 1 Starting: By kickstarter with neutral selector Frame: Frame consists of three main sections, which can be replaced individually if damaged. Rear of body fitted with pressed sheet-metal panelling. Springing: Swinging arm with hydraulic shock absorbers at front and rear. Steering: Rake 65 ; trail 70 mm (2 ¾ in); distance between steering head bearings 270 mm (10 5 / 8 in) Durkopp Diana Info Point,

8 0 TECHNICAL DATA Wheels: Divided 2.45 x 10 flat base rims; tyre size 3.50 x 10 Brakes: Internat expanding brakes. Diameter of brake drums 150 mm (6 in) Electrical Equipment: 110 mm (4 3 / 8 in) dia. headlamp. 25/25-watt twinfilament bulb. Parklog and rear light bulbs both 1.5 Watts. Speedometer Illumination 0.6 Watts. Removable ignition key. D.C. horn. 6-volt 7-amp. hr. battery. 8 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

9 A TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION A TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION Engine The Dürkopp R 201 engine is of the fan-cooled two-stroke type. The crankcase, together with the complete fan casing, the cylinder, and the cylinder head are of lightalloy construction. The crankshaft and the gearbox spindles are carried in the two halves of the crankcase. A sheet-metal cover plate is fitted on the left-hand side, while on the right-hand side is the fan casing. The fan casing provides an oil-tight compartment for the clutch and the primary chain. The flywheel magneto and dynamo is mounted on the left-hand side of the engine under the sheet-metal cover plate. In addition the driving sprocket, clutch-operating lever, kickstarter spindle, and gearchange spindle are fitted on the left-hand side of the engine. A special cast-iron liner with milled ports is shrunk into the light-alloy cylinder. The light-alloy piston has a flat crown. It is fitted with three piston rings which are pegged to prevent rotation; the uppermost of these rings is hard-chromed. To ensure that it is fitted correctly, the front of the piston is marked "Vorn". The big-end bearing is a caged roller bearing. The connecting rod is a drop-forged steel component, and the trank pin is pressed into the trank webs. The crankshaft is mounted in three ball bearings. A fan is fitted to the crankshaft for cooling the engine. Gearbox The gears are engaged by means of a selector drum and two selector forks. Operating the kickstarter pedal when the clutch is disengaged will cause the neutral-selector mechanism to engage the true neutral gear between bottom and second gears from any gear. Clutch The multi-plate clutch runs in an oil bath, which ensures that it engages smoothly and that wear is reduced to a minimum. The clutch is housed in the large chain sprocket on the gearbox mainshaft. Power is transmitted from the engine to the gearbox by means of a sheet-roller chain. The clutch can be adjusted by altering the position of the cam clamped to the clutchoperating lever. Lubrication The cylinder bore and the crankshaft bearings are lubricated by means of the oil added to the petrol in the proportions of 1 : 25. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

10 A TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION Carburetter The horizontal Bing type 2/26/39 double-lever carburetter is connected to the air inlet pipe by means of a rubber elbow piece. The air inlet pipe passes through the fuel tank, and the air filter is fitted on its upper end under the pillion seat. The fuel is atomised in the main and pilot jets and is mixed with air. At low loads and at low speeds the fuel-air mixture is supplied to the engine by means of the pilot jet and the pilot air screw. As the engine Speed and load increase, the main-jet system comes into Operation. This system comprises the main jet, the mixing chamber, the jet block, and the needle jet. The area of the passage through the needle jet can be varied by means of a tapered jet needle. This needle is attached to the throttle slide, and moves up and down with it. The deeper the needle penetrates into the needle jet, the smaller is the area of the passage through the jet. The height at which the needle is attached to the throttle slide can be adjusted, a number of grooves being provided in the shank of the needle for this purpose. If the needle is raised, the effective area of the jet is increased, and the mixture is richer. If the needle is lowered the mixture becomes weaker. The needle controls the amount of fuel passing through the carburetter only when the throttle is partly open. When the throttle is fully open, the size of the main jet determines the amount of fuel passed. The air slide, which is free to move in the throttle slide, enables the mixture to be made richer temporarily; this is required mainly when starting a Gold engine. The air slide is controlled by means of the air lever on the handlebars. The carburetter adjustments at the time of manufacture are as follows: Main jet 105 Needle jet 2.66 Needle position 3 Pilot jet 45 Pilot air screw 1½turns open Ignition The ignition current is provided by the ignition coil in the magneto and generator. Ignition should occur at 4 to 4.5 mm (0.16 to 0.18 in) before TDC when the gap between the contact-breaker points is 0.3 to 0.4 mm (0.012 to in). Depending on riding methods, the heat range of the sparking plug employed should be 225 or 240. The plug has a 14-mm thread and a reach of 1/2 in (1.25 mm). Silencer The twin silencers are mounted under the foot board. They are connected to the engine through the exhaust pipe, which forms part of the lower frame section, an adaptor pipe, and the exhaust flange on the engine. Frame The frame consists of: 1. The pressed-steel front panel and foot board. This is provided with a box-section stiffener, the front of which carries the steering-head bearings; 10 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

11 A TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION 2. the tubular frame, which consists of a pair of curved tubular members and their connections. lt is bolted to the pressed-steel frame. The tubular frame carries the two seats and the fuel tank; 3. the lower frame, which is connected to the remaining frame sections by rubber mountings. This section carries the engine, the silencer, and the bearings for the pivoted rear fork. Each frame section can be replaced separately. Seats The rider's and pillion passenger's saddies both consist of a foam rubber base with a hard rubber cover. Both seats can be hinged up, and they are held in place by the pillion passenger's hand grip, which is provided with a lock. Handlebars The headlamp is built into the central section of the handlebars. All the control cables are hidden from sight. Electrical Equipment The Noris ULZVS/25/30/L flywheel magneto and generator has an output of 30 Watts. The horn and the parking and tail lights draw current from a 6-volt 7-amp. hr battery. The battery is charged from the generator through a rectifier. A 1-amp. fuse is placed in the charging circuit. The current for the main headlamp bulb is supplied directly by the generator. Headlamp diameter 110 mm (41/2 in) Twin-filament headlamp bulb 25/25 Watt Parking light bulb 1.5 Watt Tail lamp bulb 1.5 Watt Speedometer Illumination bulb 0.6 Watt The removable ignition key, which is situated under the rider`s seat, also switches the headlamp and parking lights On and Off. The dippet switch and the horn button are on the left-hand handlebar. The fuse, rectifier and choke coil are located under the rider`s seat. Fuel Tank The fuel tank has a capacity of about 12 litres (2 5 / 8 gall), of which 1 ½ litres (2 ½ pints) form the reserve supply. When the main fuel supply has been exhausted, the reserve supply enables a further km (20 25 miles) to be covered. When the main supply is exhausted, there is sufficient room in the tank for 10 litres of petrol and 0.4 litres of oil (2 gallons of petrol and 2 / 3 pint of oil). The tank filier cap is placed under the driver's seat. The fuel tap and the carburetter tickler are controlled by the same external handle. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

12 A TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION Kickstarter The kickstarter is connected to the engine by a chain. The kickstarter is also used for engaging neutral gear. Power Transmission Power is transmitted from the gearbox to the rear wheel by means of a 12.7 x 7.75 mm toller chain, which runs in a fully-enclosed chaincase. Overall gear ratios: Bottom gear : 1 2nd gear 8.38 : 1 3rd gear 6.08 : 1 Top gear 4.86 : 1 Springs and Shock Absorbers Both wheels are mounted on single pivoted arms. The front swinging arm is mounted in a grease-lubricated needle bearing on the steering head. An internally-guided helical spring and a hydraulic shock absorber absorb the road shocks. The rear swinging arm also serves as the chaincase. lt is mounted in bronze-bushed bearings, which are of the self-oiling type, so that no maintenance is required. The rear suspension unit has a built-in hydraulic shock absorber. These components also require no maintenance, since the lugs on the suspension unit are mounted in rubber. Brakes Both internal-expanding brakes are equipped with steel brake drums having a diameter of 150 mm (6 in). The front brake linings are 20 mm (0.8 in) wide, and the rear linings 25 mm (1 in) wide. A light-alloy cooling ring is fitted round the rear brake drum to improve the cooling. Wheels The disc wheels consist of two halves held together by six nuts (14 mm across flats). The wheels are interchangeable. Centre Stand The strong centre stand, with rubber-covered feet, enables either front or rear wheel to be removed easily. Tools The tool kit is placed under the pillion passenger`s seat. The tools supplied include: 1 Sparking-plug spanner 1 Wheel spanner 1 Double-ended spanner, 8 and 10 mm 12 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

13 A TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION 1 Double-ended spanner, 9 and 11 mm 1 Double-ended spanner, 14 and 17 mm 1 Single-ended spanner, 19 mm 1 Screwdriver Equipment The following are among the items of special equipment which can be supplied for the Diana: Luggage carrier, covers for seats and spare wheel, windscreen, safety bars for front panel, etc. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

14 B ENGINE MAINTENANCE B ENGINE MAINTENANCE Adjusting the Clutch Clean all dirt away from the adjustable cam and its neighbourhood. Loosen the 8-mm nut clamping the cam in place, push the clutch lever to the left with a screwdriver, and turn the cam with the Spanner so that it bears against the clutch-operating rod with the Spanner so that it bears against the clutch-operating rod which protrudes from the engine casing; then tighten the 8-mm nut up again. When the clutch has been operated a few times, a small amount of play should be present at the hand lever. Apply plenty of grease to the bearing between the adjustable cam and the clutch-operating rod, and a few drops of oil to the clutch-lever bearings. Sparking Plug and Timing the Ignition (See Fig. 4) The gap at the sparking-plug electrodes should be 0.6 mm (0.024 in). In course of time the central electrode will burn away; the correct gap can then be obtained by bending the outer electrode. The flywheel magneto and generator is situated behind the left-hand sheet-metal cover. The armature is fitted on a taper on the crankshaft, and rotates with it. The contact-breaker points on the flywheel magneto should be checked every 5000 km (3000 miles). The gap between the points when they are fully open should be 0.3 to 0.4 mm (0.012 to in), and the points should have a smooth level surface. If necessary the surface can be smoothed with a magneto fite. 14 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

15 B ENGINE MAINTENANCE To adjust the contact-breaker points, turn the armsture anti-clockwise until the contact-breaker arm has been fully raised by the contact-breaker cam. Unscrew the cheese-head bolt holding the contact bracket, and turn the eccentric pin with a screwdriver until the required contact-breaker gap of 0.3 to 0.4 mm (0.012 to in) is obtained. Messure this gap with a feeler gauge. Tighten the cheese-head bolt up again. After the contact-breaker gap has been adjusted, it is essential that the ignition be retimed. Timing the ignition: Ignition should occur 4 to 4.5 mm (0.16 to 0.18 in) before TDC. The correct position of the crankshaft for ignition to take place is marked on the armsture and on the crankcase. After loosening the three bolts which pass through slotted holes to hold the base plate, turn this to right or left until the contact-breaker points are just about to open when the marks on the armsture and on the crankcase coincide. Then tighten up the three bolts to secure the base plate. lt is advisable to use a test lamp to detect the precise point at which the contactbreaker points open. The leads from a battery, in one of which the lamp is inserted, should be connected to the "earth", or engine block, and to terminal 2 on the terminal strip. At the moment when the points open, the lamp becomes dim. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

16 B ENGINE MAINTENANCE Cleaning the Jets and the Carburetter (See Fig. 5) The two main parts of the carburetter are the mixing chamber and the float chamber; they are connected by means of the jet block, at the upper end of which is mounted the main jet. The pilot jet is in the mixing chamber behind the screw. The throttle slide and the air slide are fitted in the upper part of the mixing chamber, which is closed by means of the top cap and locking ring. The float chamber cover, in which the tickler is fitted, screws on to the top of the float chamber. The carburetter will not work properly if the fuel contains dirt or water. lt may therefore be necessary to clean the filters and jets as well as the whole of the carburetter from time to time. All work on the carburetter must be carried out with great care, since the body of the carburetter and the Jets are made of soft material. The threads and the sealing washers must not be damaged. Care must be taken that the float chamber is always fitted vertically. The jets may be cleaned only by blowing them through or by means of a bristle. Neuer use a needle or wire for this purpose. 16 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

17 B ENGINE MAINTENANCE Cleaning the Air Filter The air used by the engine is drawn through the air filter, where any dust is deposited on the oily surfaces. The life'of the engine and the fuel consumption depend on the condition of the air filter. If the filter is blocked the fuel consumption will increase, while if the filter is dry it will not retain the Just properly. This acts like an abrasive inside the engine, and so causes a considerable increase in the wear. Depending on the condition of the roads the air filter should be washed out in petrol every 500- to 1000 km (300 to 600 miles) and dipped in oil. Adjusting the Idling Speed (See Fig. 5) The idling Speed should be adjusted with the engine warm and with the throttle twistgrip fully closed. The engine must run smoothly at a slow speed. The idling speed is adjusted by altering the amount of mixture supplied by the carburetter. The amount of mixture is varied by turning the throttle stop screw. Turning this screw to the right increases the amount of mixture and so raises the engine speed, while turning it to the left decreases the amount. The throttle stop screw is held in the required position by means of a lock nut. The strength of the idling mixture can be adjusted by moving the pilot air screw relative to the pilot jet. Turning this screw clockwise will result in a richer mixture, while unscrewing it will weaker the mixture. The normal position of the idling screw is about 11/2 turns open from the fully screwed-in position. The position of the pilot air screw is also fixed by means of a lock nut. The lengths of the throttle and air-slide control cables are adjusted by means of adjusters on the mixingchamber cap. Changing the Oil in the Gearbox The oil should be changed for the first time at the end of the running-in period, i.e. after 1500 km (1000 miles) have been covered, and then every 5000 km (3000 miles). The oil should be changed when the engine is warm so that the old oil flows out easily. Unscrew the oil drain plug (the drain plug is the screw on the right-hand side under the crankcase looking forward), let all the old oil drain off, and then screw the drain plug in again tightly. Pour 1 litre (13/4 pints) of SAE oil in through the filler plug, which is on the right-hand side beside the fan, leaning the machine slightly over to the left. Keep a constant check on the oil level. When the scooter is raised up on its stand, oil should emerge when the filler plug is unscrewed. Decarbonising the Combustion Chamber The carbon deposits should be cleaned out of the combustion chamber and the exhaust ports (cylinder head and cylinder must be removed to enable this to be done) about every 5000 km (3000 miles). If necessary the piston rings should be freed at the same time. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

18 C FRAME MAINTENANCE C FRAME MAINTENANCE Adjusting Brakes (See Fig. 6) Front wheel: Unscrew the lock nut on the cable adjuster. Unscrew the cable adjuster until the wheel just spins freely, but the brake starts to act as soon as the hand lever is operated. Tighten the lock nut up again. Rear wheel: Screw the brake adjuster on the brake cam lever in until the wheel just spins freely, but the brake starts to act as soon as the pedal is depressed. Altering position of brake cam lever: When the brakes have been adjusted a number of times, there may prove to be insufficient movement available at the brake cam lever to operate them properly. In this Gase the brake cam levers should be moved back in relation to the spindle; levers and Gams are serrated so that the levers can be mounted in any position. The brakes will be most effective when the brake cable is roughly at right angles to the brake cam lever when the brakes are applied; when the brakes are released, this angle will of course be less than 90. Tyre Pressures The specified pressures should be measured when the tyres are cold, not when they have been warmed up by riding. Care must be taken that the tyre pressures are up to the values specified, especially when carrying a pillion passenger. 18 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

19 C FRAME MAINTENANCE Tyre pressures, solo: Front 0.8 to 1.0 atm. (11 to 14 lb/sq in). Rear 1.5 to 2 atm. (21 to 28 lb/sq in). Tyre pressures, with pillion passenger: Rear 2.25 to 2.5 atm (32 to 35 lb/sq in). Greasing The following bearings should be greased every 1500 km (1000 miles): 1. The bearings for the front swinging arm 2. The kickstarter bearing 3. The foot-change Pedal bearing The grease nipples for the two latter items are under the foot board. The bearings for the handlebar control levers, the foot-brake pedal, the stand, and the control cables should be given a few drops of oil at the same time. To lubricate the throttle twistgrip, push the rubber cover back from the outer edge and unscrew the screw which is then visible. The grip can then be taken off the handlebars, and the slider which is exposed should be greased. Electrical Equipment (See Fig. 7) Fuse: A 1-amp fuse is fitted in the fuse box under the driver's seat. This fuse is placed in the charging circuit, and protects the generator if the rectifier becomes faulty and permits a reverse current to flow. Under no circumstances may this fuse be replaced by one of higher capacity. If the fuse blows, there is either a short circuit in the charging circuit or the rectifier is defective. Battery: The acid level can be checked simply by lifting the battery. Only distilled water may be used for topping up the battery. Unscrew the vent plug, and check the acid specific gravity with a hydrometer and the state of charge with a voltmeter. The battery should be charged or topped up as necessary. The positive terminal is connected to the red lead from the switch and the negative terminal is earthed; grease the terminals with terminal grease. The tube attached to the battery lid is provided to dispose of any acid which might leak out of the battery. lt should be passed straight down and with no kinks between the tank and the rear panelling. Adjusting the Headlamp Loosen the two 4-mm bolts in the slotted holes on the headlamp rim, and tilt this up or down as required. Tighten the bolts up again. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

20 C FRAME MAINTENANCE Adjusting Steering-Head Bearings (See Fig. 8) If the steering-head bearings are not properly adjusted, the road-holding will be affected. The bearings must be neither too tight nor too loose. When they are properly adjusted the handlebars must turn absolutely freely. Remove the pinch bolt holding the handlebar assembly, and raise the handlebars slightly. Then loosen the lock nut and adjust the play by turning the upper bearing nut. Adjusting Kickstarter (See Fig. 6 and 9) The kickstarter pedal is mounted in an eccentric bush. The play in the chain connecting the pedal to the engine can be adjusted by turning this bush. This play is necessary to prevent the gears jumping out of engagement, and should be sufficient to enable the kickstarter pedal to be depressed about 20 mm ( 3 / 4 in) before the chain becomes taut. Before turning the eccentric bush, loosen the pinch bolt under the foot board, and tighten it up again when the adjustment has been completed. 20 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

21 C FRAME MAINTENANCE Care of the Chain The life of the chain and of the chain sprockets depends on the chain receiving the proper maintenance, as also does the full utilisation of the engine power. A red deposit on the chain is a sign that it has been running dry. The correct lubrication is shown, not by a layer of grease on the surface, but by the grease which has penetrated into the interior of the links. The "Univis KR 29 B" chain grease which we recommend is dissolved in a solvent and so is very thin and easy-flowing. After this grease has been rubbed into the chain, or after the chain has been removed and cleaned (see page 54), and then dipped in a bath of grease, the solvent evaporates, and the grease which has penetrated into the chain is left behind. lt is advisable not to use the scooter immediately after treating the chain in order to give the solvent time to evaporate. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

22 C FRAME MAINTENANCE Adjusting the Chain Tension (See Fig. 10) The chain tension depends on the position of the rear swinging and so does not remain constant. The chain is in its tautest position when the fork is in the centre of its path, i.e. when the two chain sprockets and the swinging arm spindle are in line. The White mark on the suspension unit will then just be level with the edge of the protective casing. The chain tension should be checked when the swinging arm is in this position. There should be sufficient slack in the chain to allow a total up and down movement of about 10 mm ( 3 / 8 in) in the centre of the chain. Remove both side cowlings. Loosen the nuts on the pinch bolts for the swinging arm bearings on both sides of the machine, and turn the hexagon head on the eccentric disc on the left-hand side by means of a 19-mm spanner until the chain tension is correct. Then tighten up both pinch-bolt nuts again. When removing the chain, it is advisable to attach a second chain to the first, and to pull this through and leave it on the chain sprockets. This greatly simplifies refitting the chain. When fitting the chain, the eccentric bearing of the swinging arm must be turned to the front as far as it will go, since otherwise it will prove impossible to connett the spring link. The spring link should be fitted in the following manner: Pass the upper section of the chain round the rear sprocket so that the first two or three links are clear of the sprocket and are leading towards the engine. Then insert the connecting link so that its prongs point outwards towards the person fitting the chain. Then pull the chain back on to the sprocket until the connecting link is close up to the sprocket. Then pull the other end of the chain towards the connecting link with a pair of pliers, and slide the end link over the prong. Springe, Shock Absorbers, und Bearings for Swinging Arms Apart from the regular greasing of the bearing for the front swinging arm, the springing system requires no maintenance. If the rear swinging arm has been removed, however, it will be necessary to renew the all in the bearing when the swinging arm has been replaced. To check the front shock absorber when it has been removed 22 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

23 C FRAME MAINTENANCE from the machine, it must be held vertical. In this position there should be only a very slight resistance encountered when compressing the shock absorber. When rapidly extending it, however, there should be a marked resistance which remains constant over the whole range of movement. Saddle Petrol must not be used for cleaning the seats. They should be washed down with soap and watet. Paintwork The Diana is painted with synthetic cellulose. Normal polishes and cleaners for synthetic celluloses can be used. If the paintwork becomes damaged, genuine cellulose for touching up should be obtained from the manufacturers. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

24 D ENGINE REPAIRS (NO REMOVAL FROM FRAME) D ENGINE REPAIRS (NO REMOVAL FROM FRAME) Repairs to the cylinder, the piston, the generator, the fan, and the clutch, and, adjustment of the neutral-gear selection mechanism can be carried out without removing the engine from the frame. Removing and Fitting Cylinder and Piston: See also section on dismantling the engine. Removing the cylinder: Close the fuel tap and remove the sparking plug. Take off the carburetter and the horn. Unscrew the two 8-mm dia. x 35 mm bolts holding the exhaust pipe. Remove the air ducts and the fan cover. Unscrew the cylinder-head bolts. Take off the cylinder head and remove the cylinder. Removing the piston: Remove the two circlips securing the gudgeon pin, and force this out with the aid of the gudgeon-pin extractor lt is advisable to first warm the piston up to about 80 C (175 F). Fitting the piston: Make sure the piston is the right way round ("Vorne" and arrow stamped on front of piston crown). Fit one circlip. Warm the piston up to about 80 C (175 F), and push the gudgeon pin into the piston and through the connecting-rod little-end bearing. Fit the second circlip. Fitting the cylinder: Fit the cylinder gasket, and oil the piston and the cylinder bare. Hold the piston in place with a slotted wooden block. Compress the piston rings with a piston-ring clamp, fit the cylinder, and attach the cylinder-head gasket. Fit the cylinder head, and secure it by means of four 8-mm bolts and washers. The cooling ribs on the cylinder head must run across the machine, not parallel to the direction of motion. Attach the carburettor, and push the air-inlet elbow into the air-inlet pipe. Fit the gasket between the exhaust pipe and the exhaust flange. lt is essential that the flange on the exhaust pipe should be exactly parallel to the flange on the cylinder. The adaptor pipe between the exhaust flange and the exhaust pipe contains a stiff universal joint. Under no circumstances try to pull the exhaust pipe into the correct position by tightening up the two 8-mm dia x 35-mm bolts, since this could cause the flange on the cylinder to break off. Do not tighten the two bolts up until the two flanges are properly lined up and are mating firmly with the gasket between them. Fit and secure the fan cover and the air ducts. Attach the horn (spacer behind mounting lug). Screw in the sparking plug. 24 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

25 D ENGINE REPAIRS (NO REMOVAL FROM FRAME) Removing and Fitting the Flywheel Magneto and Generator (See Fig. 11) RemovaI: Take off the left-hand cover. Hold the armature by inserting a mm (½ in) dia. rod through the half-round groove milled on the armature rim and on to the crankcase, and unscrew the 12-mm hexagor nut. Withdraw the armature with the aid of the extractor , taking care not to lose the washer and the feather key. Remove the green and yellow leads and the terminal strip by undoing two 4-mm dia. x 15-mm cheese-head screws. Take off the plug on the ignition lead. After unscrewing the three 5-mm dia. x 15 mm cheese-head screws, withdraw the base plate. Carefully push the ignition lead out of the crankcase, and do not break it by pulling the base plate. Replacing the magneto and generator: The magneto and generator is replaced in the reverse order. The green lead is connected to terminal 2, and the yellow lead to terminal 51. The leads are pushed behind the base plate so that they do not come into contact with the armature. The ignition should then be timed as described in the section on engine maintenance on page 14. Removing and Fitting Fan and Clutch Removing fan: Take off the air ducts and the fan cover. Unscrew the 12-mm nut on the fan, holding the fan with the special key, and then withdraw the fan using the fan extractor (Take care when doing this, since the tension of the cup spring fitted behind the fan may easily force it off the crankshaft). Removing clutch: (See Fig. 12 and 13) Take off the left-hand cover plate. Remove the armature. Lift up the rubber foot mat and unscrew the bolt holding the large kickstarter sprocket, and then take off this Durkopp Diana Info Point,

26 D ENGINE REPAIRS (NO REMOVAL FROM FRAME) sprocket. Unscrew the eight 6-mm dia. x 110 mm cheese-head bolts and take off the fan casing, having a container ready to collect the gearbox oil (two bolts are accessible through holes in the intermediate plate of the chaincase). Take the cup spring off the crankshaft. Place the locking fixture between the chain sprockets for the primary drive, unscrew the clutch cap with the box spanner , and take out the clutch thrust pin. Unscrew the 12-mm hexagon nut with a box spanner, and take out the clutch cover plate, the spring, the spring cup, and the clutch plates. Fitting clutch and fan: The clutch and the fan are replaced in the reverse order. The following points must be noted: 1. When screwing on the 12-mm nut, compress the clutch spring with clamp Before fitting the fan casing, place the cup spring on the crankshaft. This must not be forgotten. When these items have been replaced, the gearbox is filled with 1 litre (1 3 / 4 pints) of SAE engine oil. Lean the scooter slightly over to the left when filling up with oil. 26 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

27 D ENGINE REPAIRS (NO REMOVAL FROM FRAME) Adjusting the Neutral-Gear Selection Mechanism The neutral-gear selection mechanism will require adlustment only if adjusting the tension of the kickstarter chain (as described on page 20) has not affected a cure. The following work is then necessary. Dismantling: (See Fig. 12) Take off the left-hand cover, the air ducts, and the fan cover. Lift up the rubber foot mat, unscrew the bolt holding the large kickstarter chain sprocket, and take off this sprocket. Unscrew the eight 6-mm dia. x 110 mm cheese-head bolts and take off the fan casing, having a container ready to collect the gearbox oil (two bolts are accessible through holes in the intermediate plate of the chaincase). Adjusting the neutral-gear selection mechanism: (See Fig. 14) Disconnect the kickstarter chain, and remove the sprocket and spring from the kickstarter spindle. Replace the sprocket on the spindle without the spring. Engage neutral gear between bottom and 2nd gears. The lugs on the toothed segment should then be equidistant from the bearing surfaces of the neutral-engagement lever. Turn the kickstarter spindle anti-clockwise until it hits the stop. Push the neutralengagement lever upwards, and slowly turn the kickstarter spindle clockwise. After the spindle has been turned a little way, the cam on the kick-starter spindle will push over the rocker arm and hence pull down the neutral-engagement lever. The eccentric pin (connecting the rocker arm and the neutral-engagement lever) should then be adjusted until the surfaces on the neutral-engagement lever and the lugs on the toothed segment are in contact and a resistance can just be felt when the kickstarter spindle is turned beyond this point. When adjusting the eccentric pin remember that the throw of the eccentric should point towards the crankshaft. Then hold the pin still and tighten up the 8-mm nut. Two 14-mm spanners will be required, one of which is a little slimmer than normal. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

28 D ENGINE REPAIRS (NO REMOVAL FROM FRAME) Assembly: When fitting the sprocket and spring on the kickstarter spindle, twist the spring about 1 turn so that it provides the necessary tension, and make Bure that the sprocket is fitted in the marked position. The remaining parts are replaced in the reverse order. When the work has been completed, 1 litre (13/4 pints) of SAE engine all will have to be filled into the gearbox. Lean the scooter slightly over to the left when doing this. 28 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

29 E FRAME REPAIRS E FRAME REPAIRS Removing and Fitting Rear Swinging Arm (See Fig. 15) Removal: Take out the rear wheel. Unscrew the brake adjusting screw. Disconnect the brake cable. Unscrew the 12-mm nut and the 10-mm bolt from the suspension unit. Remove the suspension unit (see also instructions for removing the suspension unit). Disconnect the spring link on the rear chain. Unscrew the dirt guard. Unscrew the nut on the right-hand end of the swinging arm spindle and remove the washers. Unscrew the two eccentric pinch bolts. Unscrew the swinging arm spindle by means of the 19- mm hexagon on its left-hand end. Remove the right-hand eccentric disc and its key. Remove the swinging arm spindle, taking care not to lose the two rubber sealing rings. Fitting Rear Swinging Arm: (Fig. 16) Place the swinging arm in the frame. Insert the rear chain, and make sure the intermediate plate of the chain case is fitting properly. Oil the swinging arm spindle. Place one rubber sealing ring on the spindle, and then pass it from the left-hand side through the bearing and through the swinging arm; screw it home. If the tread does not engage properly in the thread in the eccentric, the slot in the lug must be prised open a little with a screwdriver. Pull the chain fairly tight so that it cannot get caught up. Place the second rubber sealing ring in the bearing tube on the right-hand side, and then push in the eccentric disc until it hits the stop. Turn the swinging arm spindle until the keyways line up and insert the key. Fit the washers and tighten up the nut. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

30 E FRAME REPAIRS Unscrew the two slotted screws on the swinging arm bearing tube, and pour thin SAE oil slowly into one of them until oil starts to come out of the other. Replace the two screws. Turn the eccentric to the front. Fit the spring link in the rear chain as described in the section on care of the chain, page 22. Raise the swinging arm to its central position, and turn the eccentrics until the chain tension is correct, i.e. until when the chain is at its tautest there is still a slight play. Tighten the 8-mm nuts to hold the eccentrics. Fit the suspension unit, tighten up the upper 12-mm nut, and insert and tighten up the lower 10-mm bolt. Screw on the dirt guard. Connect the brake cable. Screw in and adjust the brake adjusting screw. Fit the rear wheel. 30 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

31 E FRAME REPAIRS Removing and Fitting Rear-Wheel Bearing and Brake: (See Fig. 17 and 18) Remove the rear wheel. Take off the chaincase cover. Unscrew the chain sprocket nut, applying the brake to hold the sprocket still. Knock the axle pin out from the left by tapping it lightly. Remove the chain sprocket, taking care not to lose the shaft seal. If the position of the brake cam lever is to be altered, the cam lever nut should be unscrewed. lf the ball-bearings are replaced, note that the marked side of the lefthand bearing must point inwards. Reassemble in the reverse order. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

32 E FRAME REPAIRS Removing and Fitting Rear Suspension Unit Unscrew the 12-mm nut at the top and the 10-mm bolt at the bottom. Push down the swinging arm, and hinge the suspension unit to the rear until there is the maximum clearance between the suspension unit and the frame, and then push it outwards as far as possible. Push a 12-mm pin through the hole in the upper lug of the suspension unit to clear it from the bolt despite the angle at which the suspension unit is held. Replace in the reverse order. Removing and Fitting Front Swinging Arm (See Fig. 19) Remove the front wheel. Disconnect the brake cable. Unscrew the upper 8-mm bolt and the lower 8-mm nut from the shock absorber; take the spring bearing. Unscrew the 10-mm nut and screw out the swinging arm pin. Remove the swinging arm. Unscrew the lower 10-mm bolt for the shock absorber off the lower bolt. Re-assemble in the reverse order. Grease the spring bearing bolt before replacing it. Do not screw up the swinging arm pin too tightly; the swinging arm must pivot freely, but be free from play. 32 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

33 E FRAME REPAIRS Removing and Fitting Handlebars und Steering Column (See Fig. 20, 21, 22, 23) Remove the headlamp unit and disconnect the cables leading downwards. Remove the steering-head cowling. Disconnect all the control cables with the exception of the hand-brake cable, and pull them out of the steering column. Unscrew the cap nut on the speedometer drive shaft, and unscrew the threaded sleeve from the flexible shaft; remove the flexible shaft. Unscrew the pinch bolt holding the handlebar unit, and Lake off the handlebars. Remove the front wheel. Unscrew the lock nut, the locking plate, and the bearing nut (see also "Adjusting the steering head bearings", page 20). Unscrew the stop. Cover the opening in the pressed steel frame to ensure that none of the balls fall in, and remove the steering column. When the steering column has been removed, the mudguard can be taken off. When re-assembling, make certain that the control cables are replaced in the saure position. The headlamp unit has slotted holes to enable lt to be adjusted. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

34 E FRAME REPAIRS Removing and Fitting a Handlebar Bend in the Handlebar Centre Unit (See Fig. 23a and 23b) Unscrew and remove the headlamp unit. Disconnect and remove the control cables. Take off the throttle twistgrip or the fixed grip on the clutch side and unscrew the 6- mm dia. x 12-mm slotted screw. Now knock the tapered tube inwards by means of a rod inserted in the handlebar tube. The handlebar tube can then be removed. 34 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

35 E FRAME REPAIRS When fitting a new handlebar tube the hole for the 6-mm screw will -have to be drilled and tapped when the tube is in its proper position and is firmly wedged in place. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

36 E FRAME REPAIRS Removing and Fitting Fuel Tank (See Fig. 25) Take of the spare wheel. Remove the carburetter and the air filter. Lift the battery of the Container. Take out the split pin in the tickler linkage and remove the tickler. Unscrew the dirt guard on the right hand side, and remove the right-hand brate on the tubular frame after unscrewing two 8-mm bolts on the frame and two 8-mm nuts under the foot board. Unscrew the four 8-mm nuts holding the fuel tank, and remove it. When replacing the tank, make certain that the tickler and the tickler tube move freely in the tube in which they are located. There must be a gap of 3 mm (0.12 in) between the plate on the tickler rod and the knob on the float chamber cover (see Fig. 5, page 14). The acid drain tube from the battery is passed downwards and to the rear between the fuel tank and the rear panelling. 36 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

37 E FRAME REPAIRS Removing and Fitting Rear Panelling (See Fig. 24) Remove the fuel tank (See above). Unscrew the 8-mm nuts on the pillionpassenger`s handle and on the lugs for the luggage carrier. Unscrew the main switch. Unscrew the terminals on the main switch and the tail lamp and remove the leads. Disconnect the Barthing lead for the battery from the frame. Remove the rear cowling. Replace in the reverse order. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

38 E FRAME REPAIRS Removing and Fitting Exhaust System (See Fig. 26) Unscrew the three 8-mm brass nuts on the front flange, disconnect the tail-pipe lugs, push the exhaust system forward, and remove it in a downward direction. Replace in the reverse order. Removing and Fitting Lower Frame Section (See Fig. 27) Remove the engine, the rear swinging arm, and the right-hand foot board. Support the rear of the machine on a tubular frame. Unscrew the 10-mm bolts on the three rubber mountings, and remove the lower frame section, moving the central stand to and fro as necessary to get it clear. Then remove the exhaust system from the lower frame. Re-assemble in the reverse order. 38 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

39 E FRAME REPAIRS Removing and Fitting Control Cables und Speedometer Flexible Shaft Carry out such of the preliminary work described in "Removing and fitting handlebars and steering column" (see page 33) as is necessary. Disconnect both ends of the faulty cable. If the cable passes through the handlebars, pull its upper section clear. Join the new cable to the lower end of the faulty cable with a piece of wire, and pull the faulty cable up until the new one comes out of the steering column. Then push the upper end of the new cable through to the point where it is to be connected. Connect up both ends of the new cable, and adjust its length as necessary. To replace the speedometer shaft, attach a piece of wire to its upper end, and pull the shaft out downwards. Use the wire to pull the new shaft back up into place. Removing and Fitting Core of Speedometer Flexible Shaft If it is only the core which is at fault, there is no need to take out the whole of the speedometer shaft. Open the headlamp, and unscrew the shaft cap nut. Unscrew the nut holding the speedometer and lift up the speedometer. Bend the shaft forwards and pull out the core. Push the locking spring on the engine to one side, and pull the lower end of the speedometershaft clear to remove the other part of the broken core; then reconnect the shaft to the engine. Feed the new speedometer core into the shaft to the engine. Feed the new speedometer core into the casing from the top, turning it all the time. Refit the speedometer shaft in the headlamp. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

40 F REMOVING ENGINE FROM FRAME F REMOVING ENGINE FROM FRAME (See Fig. 28 and 29) Close the fuel tap and unscrew the sparking plug. Take off the lefthand cover. Disconnect both leads from the terminal strip and pull them out of the crankcase. Remove the kickstarter chain and the kickstarter sprocket from the starter spindle, and take off the dirt guard. Take off the chaincase cover and remove the rear chain. After unscrewing the 8-mm nut on the clutch lever disconnect the clutch cable. Pull out the Split pin for the clutch lever and take the lever off. After unscrewing the 6-mm nuts take off the cover for the gearbox chain sprocket. Remove the carburetter, the air inlet elbow, and the fuel pipe. Unscrew the 10-mm nut on the engine and remove the gear selector arm. Remove the horn. Unscrew the two 8-mm dia. x 35-mm bolts on the exhaust flange on the cylinder. Push back the locking spring holding the speedometer flexible shaft in place on the engine, and withdraw the speedometer flexible shaft. Loosen the nuts on the pinch bolts or the eccentrics, and turn the swinging arm with the eccentrics as far to the rear as possible. Unscrew the nuts and remove the two 10-mm dia. x 85-mm engine bolts. Raise the engine slightly, turn it to the left, and then take it out of the frame to the right. The generator extractor can be screwed onto the generator to provide a handle by means of which the engine can be lifted. 40 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

41 F REMOVING ENGINE FROM FRAME Durkopp Diana Info Point,

42 G DISMANTLING THE ENGINE G DISMANTLING THE ENGINE When the engine has been removed from the frame it is advisable to mount it in an engine stand (See Fig. 48). Removing Fan (See Fig. 30) Take off the air duct and the fan cover. Unscrew the 12-mm nut holding the fan, and pull off the fan by means of the generator extractor (Care is necessary here, since the cup- spring fitted behind the fan may easily force it off the shaft). Removing Magneto and Generator (See Fig. 31) Hold the armature still, and unscrew the 12-mm hexagon nut. Remove the armature by means of the extractor , taking care not to lose the washer and key. Unscrew two 4-mm dia. x 15 mm cheese head screws, and remove the green and yellow leads and the terminal strip. Take the ignition plug off the ignition lead. Unscrew three 5-mm x 15-mm cheese-head screws and take off the base plate. Carefully push the ignition lead through the crankcase, and da not try to pull it out by pulling the base plate, since it might break. 42 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

43 G DISMANTLING THE ENGINE Removing Cylinder and Piston (See Fig. 32) Unscrew the four cylinder-head bolts, and remove the cylinder head, the gasket, and the cylinder. Remove the cylinder gasket, and take the two circlips for holding the gudgeon pin out of the piston. Take out the gudgeon pin with the aid of gudgeon pin extractor lt is advisable first to warm the piston up to about 800 C (175 F). If the piston is not to be removed, it is advisable to protect it by placing a slotted wood block between the piston and the top of the crankcase. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

44 G DISMANTLING THE ENGINE Removing Clutch and Primary Chain (See Fig. 33 and 34) Unscrew the drain plug and drain off the gearbox oil. Unscrew the eight slotted bolts, and remove the fan casing. Fitt the locking fixture between the two chain sprockets for the primary chain, unscrew the clutch cap with the box spanner , and take out the thrust pin. Unscrew the 12-mm nut with a box spanner, and take out the clutch cover plate, the spring, the spring cup, and the clutch plates. (See Fig. 13, page 25). Force off the clutch body by evenly screwing in two 6-mm dia. x 110-mm bolts. Take off both chain sprockets together with the primary chain. Remove the bush, the thrust washer, and the long and short clutch pins. Take the key out of the crankshaft. 44 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

45 G DISMANTLING THE ENGINE Splitting the Crankcase (See Fig. 35) Unscrew seven 6-mm dia. x 45-mm cheese-head bolts, and take off the left-hand half of the crankcase. If necessary lightly top the kickstarter shaft and the crankshaft with a rubber hammer. The sleeve gear remains in the left-hand half of the crankcase. Use no force, since all the bearings are only push fits. Then remove the crankcase gasket, and take out the crankshaft. If necessary tap the end of the crankshaft a few times with a rubber hammer to free it. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

46 G DISMANTLING THE ENGINE Dismantling Gearbox (See Fig. 36) Disconnect the pawl spring. Take out the layshaft, the main shaft, and the gearselector mechanism. Turn the kickstarter spindle clockwise and remove it together with the kickstarter ratchet (take care not to lose the kickstarter pawl spring). 46 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

47 G DISMANTLING THE ENGINE Dismantling Foot-Change Mechanism (See Fig. 37 and 38) The foot-change mechanism need be dismantled only if it is defective. After taking the circlip off the gear- change spindle, remove the cover plate and unscrew the stop and the pivot pin. Take out the gear-change mechanism. If parts of the mechanism require replacement, dismantle it. Remove the pawl, the kickstarter stop, the speedometer drive shaft, and the sleeve gear only if they are faulty. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

48 H ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE H ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE Preparations for Fitting a New Crankshaft (See Fig. 39, 40 and 41) When fitting a new crankshaft it is also advisable to fit new crankshaft bearings and radial sealing rings. To assist in fitting and removing the crankshaft the crankcase sections should be warmed up to a temperature of about 120 to 130 C (250 to 265 F). Before fitting the crankshaft determine the play in the bearings, and fit washers to allow for it. The following work is necessary: If necessary take the two inner rings of the crankshaft bearings off the shaft and lay them in the outer rings in the crankcase sections. Then measure the distance of the inner bearing ring from the crankcase flange with a depth gauge (remove the gasket first). Add together the two figures obtained, and from their sum subtract the dimension stamped on one of the webs of the new crankshaft. The result will give the bearing play. This must be completely compensated by fitting washers of the appropriate thickness on the crankshaft. These washers should so far as possible be equally distributed on either side. Then push the inner bearing rings firmly on to the crankshaft, placing a block between the crank webs to support them. The slight plag required in the bearings is provided by the thickness of the gasket. lt is necessary to check the adjustments by bolting together the crankcase sections with the crankshaft in place. Fitting the Cylinder: Fit the cylinder gasket, and oil the piston and the cylinder bore. Compress the piston rings with a piston-ring clamp, and support the piston with a slotted wooden block. Fit the cylinder and attach the cylinderhead gasket. Fit the cylinder head and secure it by means of four 8-mm bolts and washers. The cooling ribs on the cylinder head must run across the machine, not parallel to the direction of motion. 48 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

49 H ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE Fitting the Magneto and Generator: Pass the ignition lead through the hole. Fit the base plate and attach it by means of three 5-mm dia. x 15-mm bolts with washers and star washers. Attach and secure the ignition-lead plug. Fix the terminal strip with two 4-mm dia. x 15-mm bolts. Place the key on the crankshaft, and fit the armsture; secure it by means of a 12-mm and washer. Then time the ignition as described in the section on engine maintenance on page 14. Fitting the Fan: Place a gasket soaked in oil on the right-hand crankcase flange. Do not forget the cup spring on the crankshaft before fitting the chain sprocket. Pass the eight cheeshead 6-mm dia x 110-mm bolts through from the left-hand side, fit the fan casing, and screw up the eight bolts to hold it. Fit the fan, and secure it by means of a 12-mm hexagon nut, holding the fan still with the special key. Attach the fan cover and the air ducts. Fill the gearbox with 1 litre (1 3 / 4 pints) of SAE engine oil, leaning the engine slightly over to the left. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

50 H ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE 50 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

51 H ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE Fitting Foot-Change and Neutral-Selection Mechanism (See Fig. 42) Hold the right-hand half of the crankcase in the assembly stand. Place the gearchange mechanism and the gear-change spindle in the crankcase, and secure it with a 12-mm (A 12x1) circlip (see Fig. 37, page 46). Attach the cover plate and secure with two 6-mm heagon nuts and shake-proof washers. Check the hairpin spring. When the gear-change spindle is turned, the ends of the spring must not move laterally, so that they spring back into the groove on the gear-change pawl pivot bolt. When in the central position the gear-change pawls must be equidistant from the teeth on the gear-change segement and parallel to it. This can be adjusted by moving the cover plate on its bolts. Screw the 5-mm stop screw into the gearcase; fit the rocker arm and its pivot bolt; tonnett the rocker arm to the neutral-engagement lever by means of the eccentric pin and screw on the 8-mm nut. Assembling the Gearbox (See Fig. 43) Fit the kickstarter ratchet, insert the kickstarter shaft, and turn it anti-clockwise until it hits the stop taking care not to lose the kickstarter pawl spring. Check that the pinion on the mainshaft turns easily and does not move sideways. Insert the main shaft. Turn the toothed segement downwards until it hits the forks. Hold the selector mechanism in the left hand, with the forks pointing to the right and the pinion for the gear-change shaft downwards. Place the (larger) main-shaft pinion on the upper selector fork in such a way that the teeth project above the fork. Turn the gear-change spindle until the lower selector fork is in its lowest position, i. e. in the bottom gear position, and simultaneously place the pinion on the main shaft and the selectormechanism spindle in its bearing. The first tooth on the segment must be in engagement with the pinion on the gear-change spindle. Fit the pawl spring. Fit the layshaft together with its loose pinion and its sliding pinion so that the fork engages with the sliding pinion. Attach the foot-change pedal, and make sure that the gearbox is working properly; it must be possible to engage all four gears. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

52 H ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE Fitting the Crankshaft (See Fig. 44) If a new crankshaft is to be fitted, see the instructions on the preparations to be made on page 48. Insert the crankshaft in the right-hand section of the crankcase with the aid of the guide sleeve, and place a gasked soaked in oil on the left-hand flange. 52 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

53 H ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE Assembling Crankcase Sections (See Fig. 45) Fit the two halves of the crankcase together, and turn the sleeve gear as necessary so that the dogs engage. Use no force! Join the crankcase halves together by means of the seven 6-mm dia. x 45-mm cheese-head bolts. Make sure that the crankshaft, the gearbox main shaft, and the sleeve gear turn freely in all gears. Engage neutral gear between bottom and 2nd gears. In this position the lugs on the toothed segment are equidistant from the surfaces on the neutral-engagement lever. Turn the kickstarter spindle anticlockwise until it meets the stop and push the neutral-engagement lever upwards. Fit the chain sprocket, and turn the kickstarter spindle slowly clockwise. When the kickstarter spindle has been turned a short distance, the cam on the kickstarter spindle will push over the rocker arm and hence pull down the neutralengagement lever. The eccentric pin connecting the rocker arm and the neutralengagement lever should then be adjusted until the bearing surfaces on the neutralengagement lever and the lugs on the segment are in contact and a slight resistance is felt as the kickstarter spindle is turned beyond this point (as on page 20). Finally the eccentric pin is is turned beyond this point (as on page 25). Finally the eccentric pin is held while the 8-mm nut is tightened up. Fitting Primary Chain and Clutch (See Fig. 46) Place the thrust washer on the gearbox main shaft. Fit the key for the chain sprocket in the crankshaft. Place the primary chain round the clutch sprocket and the ci ankshaft sprocket, fit both sprockets on their spindles, and then insert the bush in the chain-sprocket hub. Fit the clutch body, and insert the four plain clutch plates and the four friction plates alternately, starting with a friction plate. Fit the cup spring, the spring, and the clutch cover plate. Place the locking fixture between the sprockets, compress the spring with the clamp , and screw on the 12- mm nut and tighten it up. Insert the thrust pin, and screw on the clutch cap with the box spanner Durkopp Diana Info Point,

54 H ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE Fitting Piston and Cylinder Fitting piston: Turn the piston to the correct position ("Vorne" and arrow stamped on front of crown). Insert one gudgeon-pin circlip. Warm the piston up to a temperature of about 80 C (175 F) and push the gudgeon pin through the piston bosses and the connecting-rod little end. Fit the second circlip. Fitting cylinder: Fit the cylinder gasket, and oil the piston and the cylinder bore. Compress the piston rings with a piston-ring clamp, and support the piston with a slotted wooden block. Fit the cylinder and attach the cylinder-head gasked. Fit the cylinder head, and secure it by means of four 8-mm dia. bolts and washers. The cooling ribs on the cylinder head must run across the machine, not parallel to the direction of motion. Fitting the Magneto and Dynamo Pass the ignition lead through the hole. Fit the base plate and attach it by means of three 5-mm dia. x 15-mm bolts with washers and shakeproof washers. Attach and secure the ignition-lead plug. Fix the terminal strip with two 4-mm dia. x 15-mm bolts. Place the key in the crankshaft and fit the armature; secure it by means of a 12-mm nut and washer. Then time the ignition as described in the section on engine maintenance on page Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

55 H ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE Fitting the Fan Place a gasked soaked in oil on the right-hand crankcase flange. Do not forget to place the cup spring on the crankshaft before fitting the chain sprocket. Pass the eight cheese-head 6-mm dia. x 110-mm bolts through from the left-hand side. Fit the fan casing, and screw up the eight bolts to hold it. Fit the fan and secure it by means of a 12-mm hexagon nut, holding the fan still with the special key. Attach the fan cover and the air ducts. Fill the gearbox with 1 litre (1 3 / 4 pints) of SAE engine oil, leaning the engine over slightly to the left. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

56 I FITTING THE ENGINE I FITTING THE ENGINE Place the intermediate plate of the chaincase in the swinging arm and turn it upwards. Turn the eccentrics on the swinging arm to the rear. Insert the engine from the right-hand side, taking care not to catch it on the intermediate plate. Insert the rear 10-mm dia. x 80-mm engine holding down bolt from the left-hand side, and fit the lock washer and nut. If necessary tap the exhaust pipe lightly to make it mate properly with the flange on the cylinder, making sure that the front of the engine is in the correct Position. Then raise the front of the engine slightly, and insert the exhaust gasket; pass two 8-mm dia. x 35-mm bolts through the holes in the flange, and attach the washers and nuts. Insert the front 10-mm dia. x 85-mm engine holding-down bolt, and fit the lock washer and nut. Tighten the engine holding-down bolts. Make sure that the exhaust pipe mates properly with the flange again tapping it lightly and if necessary levering with a strip of metal passed through the holes in the cowling; then tighten up these nuts. Fit the chain, which should have been cleaned and greased with "Univis KR 29B". Turn the swinging arm with the eccentrics to the front, and fit the spring link into the lower section of the chain immediately in front of the rear chain sprocket, and inserting it in the right-hand link first. Adjust the chain tension by turning the fork bearing pin by means of the hexagon formed on its left-hand end. When adjusting the chain, the rear wheel must be loaded sufficiently for the chain sprockets to be in line with the fork bearing pin. When the rear wheel is in this position, the white mark on the suspension unit will just be in line with the edge of the protective casing. The chain must have sufficent slack when the wheel is in this position to allow an up-und-down movement of about 10 mm ( 3 / 8 in). If there is not sufficient slack in the chain it will wear rapidly. Tighten the 8-mm nuts which hold the eccentrics, and attach and secure the speedometer drive shaft, turning the rear wheel by hand to make certain that the square end of the shaft is properly engaged in the driving mechanism. Attach the carburetter and the air-inlet elbow. The float chamber must be upright. There must be a gap of 3 mm ( 1 / 8 in) between the plate on the tickler rod as necessary to obtain this. The air-inlet elbow must fit snugly inside the tube which passes through the tank (check from above). Fit the horn and tonnett fit up (spacer bush befind fixing bracket). Fit the foot-change pedal; fit should be urpright when in the centre of the slic in the rubber cap. The position of the foot pedal can be adjusted by altering the length of the linkage or the position of the gear-change lever on the engine. Connect up the dynamo leads with the yellow lead for the lighting current attached to terminal 51 and the green short-circuiting lead to terminal 2. The leads must be fitted behind the dynamo base plate so that they cannot come into contact with the armsture. Fit the cover for the gearbox sprocket and the left-hand crankcase cover, and secure both by means of one 5-mm dis. x 10-mm screw and three 6-mm nuts. Fit the bracket to hold the intermediate plate of the chaincase. Insert the clutch lever from underneath into its lugs and the cam, and secure fit by means of a split pin at the top. Attach the clutch cable and adjust fit so that fit is taut. Push the roller on the cam against the clutch rod, and tighten up the pinch bolt holding the cam. When the clutch has been operated e few times, there must be a slight amount of play present at the hand lever. Grease the clutch cam well. Fit the return spring to the kickstarter pedal, and insert the end of the spring in the hole provided in the crankcase. Fit the sprocket to the starter spindle in the marked position with the spring tensioned by one turn and secure fit with the slotted screw. Place the kickstarter chain on the sprocket and fit the connecting link. lt must be possible to depress the kickstarter pedal mm ( 3 / 4 in) before the chain becomes taut. If necessary loosen the pinch 56 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

57 I FITTING THE ENGINE bolt and rotate the eccentric bush for the pedal until this play is obtained. If there is insufficient adjustment available with the eccentric bush, alter the position of the chain sprocket on the serrated spindle. Screw in the sparking plug and fit the high tension lead. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

58 J SPECIAL TOOLS J SPECIAL TOOLS Fig. No. Order No. Description Bolt for inserting connecting-rod little-end bush Clamp for clutch Gudgeon pin extractor Key for clutch cap Piston ring clamp Bush for sleeve gear Bush for crankshaft Locking fixture for driving and clutch sprockets Obtainable from DURKOPPWERKE AG BIELEFELD 58 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

59 J SPECIAL TOOLS Special Assembly Stand for Engine Obtainable from: Messrs. Brinkmann, Pivitsheide/Lippe Durkopp Diana Info Point,

60 J SPECIAL TOOLS Special Tools to be Made Locally 60 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

61 K ATTACHING A SIDECAR K ATTACHING A SIDECAR The sidecar is connected to the Diana Motor Scooter at three points. All the parts necessary for attaching the sidecar are supplied with it. Attachment I Three 8.5-mm dia. holes have to be drilled through the flange of the stiffener and the foot board to enable the bracket with the ball connector to be fitted. The first hole should be marked off and drilled 34-mm in front of the centre of the bearing for the foot-brake pedal and 9-mm in from the edge of the stiffener flange. Then bolt on the backing plate, and drill through the other two holes. The bracket is held by means of three 8-mm dia. x 20 mm bolts to DIN G. Attachment II A hole 30-mm dia. is drilled in the front of the rear panelling. The best way of marking the distance of 37-mm between the frame Cross tube and the centre of this hole is by means of a strip of metal of the required width. Then take off the front section of panelling, and drill the hole exactly in the centre. Then bolt on the bracket in such a way that when the panelling is replaced, the lug with the 16-mm tapped hole projects about 3 mm ( 1 / 8 in) beyond the panelling. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

62 K ATTACHING A SIDECAR Attachment III Remove the right-hand bracing for the tubular frame, and open up the inner diameter of the bottom tube with a 20-mm dia. reamer for a length of 85 mm (33f8 in), so that the shaft of the ball connector is a tiqht fit inside it. Arc weld the bottom of he tube to the shaft. Fitting the Steering Damper To fit the steering damper the steering column must be removed. To remove the steering column, take off the front wheel; unscrew the headlamp and disconnect all the leads; take off the front cowling; disconnect all the Bowden cables and, with the exception of the hand-brake cable, pull them out of the steering column. Unscrew the speedometer drive shaft and unscrew the nippte from the core; after removing the pinch bolt take off the handlebars; unscrew the lock nut, the locking plate, and the bearing nut (cover the lower ball bearing to prevent balls dropping into the frame). Take out the steering column. Drill a hole 13.5 mm dia. in the stiffener (as shown in sketch D) 7.5 mm above the steering-lock stop bracket, and ream it out to 14 mm dia. so that the steering damper is a tight fit in it. When replacing the steering column, make sure that the Bowden cables are replaced in their former positions. The headlamp is provided with slotted holes to enable it to be adjusted. 62 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

63 K ATTACHING A SIDECAR Durkopp Diana Info Point,

64 Supplement to Workshop Manual for DIANA equipped with electric starter The main differences between the Diana Motor Scooter equipped with an electric starter and the Scooter without a starter are in: 1. The lighting and starting equipment 2. The carburetter 3. The foot brake This supplement therefore covers only those points, the maintenance or assembly of which differs from that of the scooter without a starter. 64 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

65 BRIEF DETAILS BRIEF DETAILS Tyre pressures: Front 0.8 to 1.0 atm (11 to 14 lb/sq in) Back, solo 1.5 to 2.0 atm (21 to 28 lb/sq in) Back, with pillion passenger (32 to 35 lb/sq in) 2.25 to 2.5 atm Gearbox oil capacity: 1 litre (1 ¾ pints) SAE oil Sparking plug: 14-mm. Heat range Ignition timing: mm (0.16 to 0.18 in) before TDC, with contact-breaker gap of 0.3 to 0.4 mm (0.012 to in) Carburetter: Main jet 120 Needle position 2 3 Needle jet 1508 Pilot jet 35 Starter jet 70 Pilot air screw ½ to 2 turns open Lighting system: Twin-filament bulb 35/35-watt, 12-volt Parking light 1.5-watt, 12-volt Rear light 1.5-watt, 12-volt Stop light 15-watt, 12-volt Speedometer Illumination 1.2-watt, 12-volt Ignition warning light 1.2-watt, 12-volt Battery: 12-volt, 13-amp. hr. unit, comprising two 6-volt, 13-amp. hr. starter batteries Driving chain: Roller chain, 12.7 x 7.75 mm (78 links including spring link) Durkopp Diana Info Point,

66 CONTENT CONTENT A TECHNICAL DATA B TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION Carburetter Electrical Equipment C ENGINE MAINTENANCE Sparking Plug and Timing the Ignition D FRAME MAINTENANCE Electrical Equipment Removing and Fitting the Flywheel Dynamo and Starter Removal Wiring Diagram for Diana E Equipped with Electric Starter Fitting E REMOVING THE ENGINE FROM THE FRAME Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

67 A TECHNICAL DATA A TECHNICAL DATA Length: 1835 mm (72 1 / 4 in) Height: 1015 mm (40 in) Width: 700 mm (27 1 / 4 in) Weight: 144 kg (317 Ib) Permissible total weight: 288 kg (635 Ib) Permissible total weight with sidecar: 340 kg (750 Ib) Wheelbase: 1290 mm (50 3 / 4 in) Ground clearance: 120 mm (4 3 / 4 in) Engine: Single-cylinder two-stroke throttled engine. Light-alloy cylinder with inserted liner. Stroke: 61 mm Bore: 64 mm Capacity: 194 cc Compression ratio: 6.5:1 Output: 9.5 h.p. at 5500 r.p.m. Lubrication: By petroil mixture. 25 Parts of petrol to 1 part of oil Carburetter: Bing inclined-jet carburetter with starting device Main jet 120 Needle jet 1508 Needle position 2-3 Pilot jet 35 Starter jet 70 Pilot air screw ½ - 2 turns open Ignition: NORIS 12-volt, 100-watt flywheel magneto starter, and dynamo Ignition timing: mm (0.16 to 0.18 in) before TDC with contact breaker gap of 0.3 to 0.4 mm (0.012 to in) Sparking plug: 14 mm. Heat range 225 to 240 Cooling: By fan mounted on crankshaft Clutch: Multi-plate clutch running in oil bath Gearbox: Four-speed gearbox. Neutral engaged by kickstarter pedal. Gear ratios: Bottom gear = 2.94 : 1 3rd gear = 1.25 : 1 2nd gear = 1.72 : 1 Top gear = 1.00 : 1 Gear-change mechanism: Single-Pedal foot-change mechanism Power transmission: Primary drive, crankshaft - gearbox, by sheet-roller chain, 2.35 : 1 reduction; secondary drive, gearbox- rear wheel, by roller chain, 2.07 : 1 reduction Overall gear ratio, crankshaft - rear wheel: Top gear, 4.86 : 1 Starting: Electric starter; kickstarter with neutral selector Durkopp Diana Info Point,

68 A TECHNICAL DATA Frame: Frame consists of three main sections, which can be replaced individually if damaged. Rear of body fitted with pressed sheet-metal panelling. Springing: Swinging arm with hydraulic shock absorbers at front and rear. Steering: Rake 65 ; trail 70 mm (2 ¾ in); distance between steering head bearings 270 mm (10 5 / 8 in) Wheels: Divided 2.45 x 10 flat base rims; tyre size 3.50 x 10 Brakes: Internat expanding brakes. Diameter of brake drums 150 mm (6 in) Electrical Equipment: Light-alloy combined headlamp and handlebar centre section. 110-mm (4 3 / 8 in) dia. Headlamp. 35/35-watt twin-filament bulb. 1.5-watt parking light. Removable ignition key situated under rider's seat, also serves as switch for driving and parking lights. Dipper switch and horn knob on left-hand handlebar. Stop light, rear light with reflector and number-plate illumination. Illuminated speedometer. Ignition warning light. D.C. horn. 12-volt 13-amp. hr. battery unit comprising two 6-volt 13-amp hr. starter batteries. 68 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

69 B TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION B TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION Carburetter The Bing type 1/26/41 inclined-jet carburetter, which is fitted with a starting device, is connected to the air inlet pipe by means of a rubber elbow piece. The air inlet pipe passes through the fuel tank, and the air filter is fitted on its upper end under the pillion seat. The fuel is atomised in the main and pilot Jets and is mixed with air. At low loads and at low speeds the fuel-air mixture is supplied to the engine by means of the pilot jet and the pilot air screw. As the engine speed and load increase, the main-jet System comes into Operation. This system comprises the main jet, the mixing chamber, the jet block, and the needle jet. The area of the passage through the needle jet can be varied by means of a tapered jet needle. This needle is attached to the throttle slide, and moves up and down with it. The deeper the needle penetrates into the needle jet, the smaller is the area of the passage through the jet. The height at which the needle is attached to the throttle slide can be adjusted, a number of grooves being provided in the shank of the needle for this purpose. If the needle is raised, the effective area of the jet is increased, and the mixture is richer. If the needie is lowered the mixture becomes weaker. The needle controls the amount of fuel passing through the carburetter only when the throttle is partly open. When the throttle is fully open, the size of the main jet determines the amount of fuel passed. The needle controls the amount of fuel passing through the carburetter only when the throttle is partly open. When the throttle is fully open, the size of the main jet determines the amount of fuel passed. This carburetter is not fitted with a conventional tickler and air slide. The starter plunger fitted in the carburetter enables the quantity of fuel supplied to be increased, with the result that the mixture is temporarily enriched; this is mainly required when starting a cold engine. The starter device is controlled by means of a lever on the handlebars. The carburetter adjustments at the time of manufacture are as follows: Main jet 120 Needle jet 1508 Needle position 2-3 Pilot jet 35 Starter jet 70 Pilot air screw ½ -2 turns open Electrical Equipment The Noris LA 12/100/2 L dynamo, which also serves as the starter motor, has a rating of 100 Watts at 12 volts. It supplies the ignition current through the ignition coil fitted on the right-hand side, and the current for the headlamp as well as the battery charging current through the cut-out switch. The battery unit has a capacity of 13- amp. hr. at 12 volts. The starting, lighting, and ignition switch is fitted under the rider's seat. Pressing the ignition key right in operates the dynamo as a starter. The ignition key also switches on the headlamp and the parking light. The dipper switch and horn knob are on the left-hand handlebar. Headlamp dia. 110 mm (41/2 in) Durkopp Diana Info Point,

70 B TECHNICAL DESCRIPTION Twin-filament headlamp bulb 12-volt 35/35-Watt Parking light bulb 12-volt 1.5-Watt Stop light bulb 12-volt 15-Watt Rear light bulb 12-volt 3-Watt Speedometer Illumination bulb 12-volt 1.2-Watt Ignition warning bulb 12-volt 1.2-Watt 70 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

71 C ENGINE MAINTENANCE C ENGINE MAINTENANCE Sparking Plug and Timing the Ignition The gap at the sparking plug electrodes should be 0.6 to 0.7 mm (0.024 to in). In course of time the central electrode will burn away; the correct gap can then be obtained by bending the outer electrode. The flywheel dynamo and starter is situated behind the lefthand sheet-metal cover. The armature, the contact-breaker cam, and the automatic advance-and-retard mechanism rotate with the crankshaft. The contact-breaker points should be checked every 2000 km (1250 miles). The gap between the points when they are fully Epen should be 0.3 to 0.4 mm (0.012 to in), and the points should have a smooth surface. If necessary the surface of the points should have a smooth surface. If necessary the furaces of the points can be smoothed with a magneto fite. To adjust the contact-breaker points: Turn the armature anti-clockwise by means of a Spanner applied to the bolt by which it is held until the contact-breaker points are fully opened. Unscrew the cheese-head bolt holding the contact bracket, and turn the eccentric pin with a screwdriver until the required contact-breaker gap of 0.3 to 0.4 mm (0.012 to in) is obtained. Measure this gap with a feeler gauge. Tighten the cheese-head bolt up again. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

72 C ENGINE MAINTENANCE After the contact-breaker gap has been adjusted, it is essential that the ignition be retimed. Timing the ignition: Ignition should occur mm (0.16 to 0.18 in) before TDC. The correct position of the crankshaft is determined with the aid of a gauge screwed into the sparking-plug hole. Then loosen the two bolts holding the contact-breaker base' plate. Pull out the lever on the advance und retard mechanism in order to advance it fully, and move the contact-breaker base plate to and fro in its slotted holes until the exact point at which the contact breaker opens is found. Then re-tighten the two bolts holding the base plate. To detect the precise point at which the contact breaker opens it is advisable to use a 12-volt test lump connected to terminal 1 on the ignition coil or to the contact-breaker arm und to earth, und to switch the ignition on while moving the base plate to und from. The lamp will light up as the contact breaker opens. 72 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007

73 D FRAME MAINTENANCE D FRAME MAINTENANCE Electrical Equipment All the leads in the electrical System carry 12 volts. If a short circuit were to occur, they would smoulder and might easily cause a fire. Any defective leads or leads with worn insulation should therefore be replaced in good time. When fitting a new lead, wire having a conductor with a smaller cross-section than that of the original lead must on no account be used. lf a fault develops in the starter, have it attended to by a Noris dealer. lt is also advisable to have any repairs or renewals to the Cut-out, ignition coil, or condenser carried out by a specialist repairer. The following rules should be observed to maintain the batteries in good condition: 1. Keep a constant check on the acid level. A white mark shows the correct height of the acid. Top up only with distilled water. Have the state of charge checked every 2000 km (1250 miles), and have the battery charged up if necessary (this work should be entrusted to a specialist). 2. The terminals must be kept clean, and should be greased with a special acid-free battery grease to prevent corrosion. 3. Do not allow the battery casing to come into contact with oil, grease, petrol or paraffin. Use only water to clean it. 4. If the vehicle is to be laid up for any length of time, remove the batteries, and have them charged up about every six weeks. Durkopp Diana Info Point,

74 D FRAME MAINTENANCE Removing and Fitting the Flywheel Dynamo and Starter Removal To avoid any risk of a short circuit, frist disconnect the main lead from the battery. Then disconnect all the leads which run to the flywheel dynamo and starter from the main switch (unscrew the front seat carrier to obtain access to this item), the cut-out, and the ignition coil. Take off the cover, unscrew the hexagon bolt holding the armature, and take off the automatic advance-and-retard mechanism together with the contact-breaker cam. Push back the four carbon brushes so that the springs bear against their sides. Unscrew the three 6-mm nuts holding the dynamo and remove the casing together with all the leads. Then pull off the armature with the aid of the special armature-extracting bolt. 74 Durkopp Diana Info Point, 2007