MORRIS MOTORS LTD. SERVICE INFORMATION No. T/7 MODEL: MORRIS TEN No. OF SHEETS 1 I SHEET No. 1 To Replace Rear Axle Drive Pinion Felt Oil Retainer 1.

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1 MORRIS MOTORS LTD. SERVICE INFORMATION No: T/6 MODEL: MORRIS TEN NO. OF SHEETS 1 SHEET No. 1 Removing and Replacing Rear Axle Differential Assembly 1. Remove spare wheel, seats, cadets, and any other loose interior fittings. 2. Using suitable tackle, raise the rear end of car sufficiently to introduce a standard axle stand under the centre of the axle casing. Lower car so that axle` is supported on stand. 3. Remove the rear wheels, exposing the countersunk slotted screws for the brake-drums. Withdraw these slotted screws and the brake-drums. 4. Insert two of the counu U.rsunk screws into the two special tapped holes in the axle flange, and, doing up the screws evenly a few turns at a time, extract axle shafts with flanges. 5. Remove rear seat hoards to give access to the axle from above. LEFT. Showing how the axle shaft is released by using two of the countersunk brake-drum screws as extractors. RIGHT. This illustration clearly shows the way in which the propeller shaft rear end is moved to one side to allow the differential assembly to be withdrawn. 6. Disconnect the fabric disc coupling bolts attaching the rear fork to the disc, taking care not to lose the series of spacing washers on either side of the centring spider. Move the propeller shaft to one side until the fabric disc is clear of the fork. If difficulty is experienced in obtaining the necessar y clearance, partly raising the chassis with the lifting tackle will give just sufficient clearance to enable the differential carrier to be withdrawn. 7. Remove the series of nuts attaching the differential carrier to the rear axle casing and withdraw the 'fferential carrier assembly. 8. Reassemble in exactly the reverse order, care being taken to see that an oil-tight joint exists between rential cover and axle casing. If necessary, a new-gasket should be employed.

2 MORRIS MOTORS LTD. SERVICE INFORMATION No. T/7 MODEL: MORRIS TEN No. OF SHEETS 1 I SHEET No. 1 To Replace Rear Axle Drive Pinion Felt Oil Retainer 1. Remove front seats, rear seat cushion, carpets and any other loose interior fittings. 2. Remove rear seat board to give access to the axle from above. 3. Disconnect fabric disc coupling bolts attaching the disc to the rear fork, taking care not to mislay the series of spacing washers on each side of the centring spider. Move the propeller shaft to one side to clear the rear axle drive pinion fork. 4. Release the drive pinion nut lock washer by bending over the tab and undo the nut. Remove the fork from the splines of the drive pinion. 5. After extracting the adjusting sleeve nut dowel and locking wire, undo the large nut by means of a special spanner. This will give access to the drive pinion felt oil retaining washer and metal sealing washer, which can be replaced as necessary. Originally the inside diameter of the metal sealing washer measured 1 ^^ in., but this has been reduced to 18 in. with a view to eliminating oil leakage. 6. Reassembly takes place in exactly the reverse order. If a replacement sealing washer has been fitted, care should be taken to see that the fork when replaced does not ride on the edge of the washer but goes right home against the inner race of the pinion front hearing. In addition the dowel holes in the adjusting sleeve and nut may not register, in which case a fresh hole can be drilled in the nut or at some other point through the sleeve and nut, whichever is the more convenient. 7. It should be noted that a modification has been introduced to the adjusting sleeve nut in order to prevent oil leakage at the drive pinion. The modification consists of a spiral oil return groove which has been cut on the inside diameter of the nut. This modified nut can be obtained on application to our Service Parts Department.

3 MORRIS MOTORS LTD. SERVICE INFORMATION No. T 8 MODEL: MORRIS TEN No. OF SHEETS 1 I SHEET No. 1 Date of issue. March, 193:3 Removing Gearbox Unit 1. Disconnect rear propeller shaft coupling by removing the nuts attaching the rear universal fork to the fabric disc, taking care not to lose the series of spacing washers between the fork arms and the centring spider, and between the centring spider and the fabric disc. 2. Disconnect the front propeller shaft coupling by removing the nuts attaching the propeller shaft universal fork to the fabric disc. This will enable the rear end of the propeller shaft to drop clear of the rear axle fork, and the propeller shaft to be drawn rearwards sufficiently to give the necessary clearance for gearbox removal. 3. Remove the positive cable from the batter}' terminal and insulate its end to prevent the possibility of short circuits. t. Remove the starter cable from the starter terminals and remove the three starter fixing bolts. This will permit the starter to be withdrawn from its housing. 5. Remove the gearbox cover and gear lever. Cover the top of the gearbox with a temporary sheet metal cjv er. A sheet metal cover should be made to place over the gearbox when the gear lever and turret is removed. 6. Remove the two nuts attaching the hand brake quadrant to the gearbox and withdraw the quadrant. Disconnect the brake lever from the pull rod by removing the clevis pin passing through the fork, and remove the spl:t pin passing through the hand lever stud, thus enabling the hand brake lever to be withdrawn. 7. Detach the speedometer cable from the gearbox. &. Remove the split pin locating the clutch pedal on the clutch pedal stud and withdraw the clutch pedal and connecting link from their respective studs. U. Withdraw the bolts attaching the clutch housing to the flywheel housing, not forgetting the bolt on the forward face of the flywheel housing which screws into the starter housing Withdraw the gearbox and clutch housing rearwards, rotating the clutch withdrawal lever in an anticlockwise direction to enable it to clear the thrust race. 1]. When replaci the gearbox care must be taken to see that the clutch withdrawal lever is pushed. well down so as to clear the thrust a' s,(_ engage the thrust face when allowed to rise with the clutch housing osition.

4 MORRIS MOTORS LTD. SERVICE INFORMATION No. T/9 MODEL : MORRIS TEN No. OF SHEETS 2 SHEET No. 2!%.,1(1- Completely Dismantling the Gearbox continued 10. With the selector bars removed, no difficulty is experienced in withdraing the three selectors from their respective gears. 11. Using extractor, Part No , extract the mainshaft from the gearbox and lift out the sliding gears. 12. Before the primary drive shaft can he withdrawn it is necessar y to drop the layshaft into the base of the gearbox in order to disengage the teeth of the double helical gears. To - do this it is necessary to remove the clutch housing from the forward end of the gearbox by unscrewing the ten bolts which attach the clutch housing to the gearbox. 1:3. Remove the layshaft spindle locking screw situated beneath the rear end of the box and withdraw the layshaft spindle from whichever end is most convenient (usually the forward end, as the plain rear end is more suited to the use of a drift). This releases the la y shaft gears, which will drop to the bottom of the box, freeing the double helical gears stisti, Withdrawing the layshaft spindle. H. Now that the helical teeth are no longer in engagement you may tap out the primary drive shaft from the forward face of the gearbox, together with the roller spigot hearing for the forward end of the mainshaft, which should not be lost. 15. The layshaft gear assembly may now be lifted out together with its two roller bearings and central spacing sleeve, all three of which are easily withdrawn. A' 16. The reverse idler gears may be removed after removing the idler shaft locking bolt in the side o tile gearbox, which will permit the idler shaft to be withdrawn, thus releasing the reverse gears. NOTES ON REASSEMBLY Reassembly is carried out in the reverse manner, but care should he taken to see that the primary shaft and its ball race are well home in the forward face of the gearbox before attempting to insert the layshaft spindle, or the constant mesh gears may be incorrectly meshed with only half the tooth width in engagement. Similarly, when meshing the two sliding double helical gears care should be taken to see that their teeth n full engagement and that the gears are not staggered. When replacing the sliding shaft do not forget first of all to replace the roller hearing in the centre of the primary shaft if this has been removed. Also make quite sure that the mainshaft splines engage with the correct splines in the sliding gears. One spline of the mainshaft is marked with a stone mark and engages with the similarly marked splines in the sliding gears. It is essential to make sure that the sliding shaft and sliding gears are correctly replaced. The correct position for the three selectors before replacement of the selector bars can be seen from the accompanying illustration, and it must be remembered that the centre selector bar must be replaced first and the centre gate member locked to it before inserting the two outer selector bars. The correct position of the seiectors is here show n and care should be taken to see that they are In this position before introducing the selector bars.

I MORRIS MOTORS LTD. SERVICE INFORMATION No. T,9 MODEL: MORRIS TEN I No. OF SHEETS 2 SHEET NO. 1 Date of issue : 1larch, 1933 Completely Dismantling the Gearbox 1.

5 I MORRIS MOTORS LTD. SERVICE INFORMATION No. T,9 MODEL: MORRIS TEN I No. OF SHEETS 2 SHEET NO. 1 Date of issue : 1larch, 1933 Completely Dismantling the Gearbox 1. Remove the gearbox from the chassis in the manner detailed in Service Information T Remove the locking split pin from the gearbox driving fork nut and unscrew the nut. 3. The front fork is splined on to the tail end of the gearbox mainshaft and can easily be withdrawn. 4. Remove the nuts attaching the rear cover-plate to the gearbox and withdraw it from its studs. 5. The speedometer drive gear may be released from the joint fork when required, by removing the spring circlip which engages in the groove on the end of the fork joint. The speedometer gear is then only located on the fork by a driving key and can be gently tapped off with a lead hammer. 6. Remove the locking wires from the selector and gate member locking screws, and withdraw the locking screws. 7. Withdraw. Ihe selector shafts for first and second gear and the reverse gear from the rear of the box, taking care not to lose the selector bar locking balls housed in the rear wall of the gearbox. NOTE : There are five of these balls altogether--one underneath each selector bar and one between each pair of selector bars. This sectional illustration clearly shows the disposition of the five selector interlocking balls and the interlocking llunger. 8. Having removed the two outer selector bars, rotate the centre selector bar through so as to bring the centre gate member locking screw to the top of the box, where its locking wire can be removed and the locking screw withdrawn. 9. Having released the centre gate member, the centre selector bar can be withdrawn rearwards in the same way as the other two, again taking care not to lose the locking balls or the small plunger which operates the interlocking balls and which passes through the rear end of the centre selector bar. Here is shown the centre selector bar rotated 180 to bring the centre gate member locking screw into a position in which it can be removed.

6 MORRIS MOTORS LTD. SERVICE INFORMATION No. T/10 MODEL : MORRIS TEN No. OF SHEETS '2 SHEET No. 2 Removing the Engine Unit Complete continued 22. Remove engine bearer bolt nuts. 23. Raise the engine with the tackle sufficiently to release the bearer arms from the frame support brackets, and then continue raising, taking care to see that the engine unit does not foul any other point as it comes out. The front end of the unit should he allowed to rise until it assumes an angle of approximately 45 0, when no difficulty should he encountered in clearing the steering gearbox and column if the engine is moved slightly to the near-side of the chassis and partly rotated in a clockwise direction. ABOVE.--The first step in removing the engine. It should be raised slightly and moved to the near-side so as to clear the steering gear. RIGHT. The first stage in the process of engine removal. The engine is raised with its forward end tilted upwards until R is clear of the lamps and lamp bar. 24. When replacing the engine an assistant should he situated inside the car to guide the universal joint centre on to the end of the propeller shaft, while the other operator lowers the engine into position on the engine bearers. 25. When the engine has been properly located on its bearers and the propeller shaft connected, the engine bearer bolts should have their mat replaced, and the remainder of the dismantled parts should be reassembled in the reverse order to their removal.

7 MORRIS MOTORS LTD. MODEL: MORRIS TEN SERVICE INFORMATION No. ' T/ lo NO. OF SHEETS 2 I SHEET NO. 1 Removing the Engine Unit Complete 1. Drain the radiator and remove carpets, front seats, forward propeller shaft tunnel, pedal toeboards and floorboards with lower toeboards which are fastened to them. 2. Remove split pin and washer locating the hand brake lever on to its bearing stud on the gearbox. 3. Remove the two bolts attaching the brake quadrant to the gearbox and withdraw the quadrant. Disconnect the brake lever from the pull rod b y removing the clevis pin passing through the fork. `: This will enable the hand brake lever to be withdrawn. 4. Disconnect the positive terminal from the battery and insulate the end of the cable to avoid the possibility of short circuits. Disconnect the starter cable from its terminal at the starter and withdraw the staiter from its housing after withdrawing its attachment bolts. 5. Remove the gearbox dipstick and the six bolts holding the gearbox cover in position. Withdraw the gearbox cover and in order to prevent loose parts from dropping into the gearbox, cover the top with a temporary cover. 6. Rerpove the three bolts attaching the propeller shaft front universal fork to the fabric universal disc. 7. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the gearbox. 8. Remove the clutch pedal assembly from the clutch pedal studs b y withdrawing the split pin passing through the clutch pedal hearing stud. 9. Remove bonnet by releasing the rear bonnet hinge bracket from the scuttle frame. 10. Remove Neater hose clips and free the hose pipes from the radiator inlet and outlet pipes. 11. Remove radiator stays and undo the nuts with rubber and steel washers which attach the radiator to the frame front cross member. This will enable the radiator to be withdrawn vertically. 12. Disconnect the petrol pipe from the Petrolift, not forgetting to hold the union body hexagon with one spanner while undoing the union nut with another, so as to relieve the Petrolift outlet member of strain. Now disconnect the petrol pipe from its attachment to the float-chamber and completely remove the pipe. 13. Remove the air cleaner head by withdrawing the bolt attaching the curved suction pipe to the carburetter and the two hand nuts on the top of the cover. 14. Disconnect the throttle and jet controls at their attachment to the carburetter. The jet control is best disconnected by removing the split pin, and withdrawing the clevis pin. Disconnect and remove the throttle lever return spring. 15. Disconnect the oil gauge pipe from the union just above the oil pump. 16. Release the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold. 17. Disconnect the low-tension wire from the distributor and also disconnect the high-tension wire leading from the coil to distributor. It is advisable at this stage to remove the coil from the dash to avoid the possibility of damage to the terminals while the engine is removed. 18. Disconnect the leads from the fusebox on the dynamo, making a note of their position for replacement. 19. Disconnect the distributor control by slackening off the clamp screw and springing the end of the control off the ball. 20. Remove the engine trays. These are held in position by bolts on the crankcase flange, which need only be loosened. The tra y s can be removed by extracting the spring clips locating them to the chassis frame. 21. Remove Nos. 2 and 4 sparking plugs and insert the bolts of a standard lifting eye to the openings, taking care to see that the lifting plate does not hear against the air cleaner head studs. _^ S

8 .MORRIS MOTORS LTD. SERVICE INFORMATION No. Till MODEL: MORRIS TEN No. OF SHEETS 1 Date of issue : March, 1 S)33 Removing Pistons and Connecting Rods T is first necessary to remove the sump. This consists of a steel pressing, and is secured to the cylinder block at sixteen points by bolts screwed into the sump flange. All of the bolts should be loosened and finally I removed, with the exception of two one at either side. These will serve to prevent the sump from falling suddenly away when the sump joint is broken. With the sump separated from the face of the c y linder block, it is an eas y matter, with the help of an assistant, to remove the two remaining bolts simultaneously and withdraw the sump completely. It is always advisable whenever the sump is removed, whatever the reason, to take advantage of the opportunity thus afforded of thoroughly washing it and the gauze filter tra y with paraffin. Needless to sa-,, loose paraffin should not he left in the sump on reassembly, neither should it he dried off b y using rags of a fluff y nature. The engine may now he turned until the connecting rod and piston under consideration are at the lowest point of their stroke. The split pins and bearing cap retaining nuts may then be removed and the big-end cap withdrawn from the connecting rod. Now gently push the connecting rod upwards until it just clears the crank pin. If the connecting rod is then rocked to the off-side of the engine, it can be withdrawn clear of the crankshaft together with its attached piston. Considerable care must be exercised in order to make quite sure that no damage is done to the piston. The pistons and connecting rods are replaced in exactly the reverse order to their removal, i.e. from the off-side, but special care should he taken that the piston ring gaps are not all on the same side of the piston, but that the gaps of adjacent rings are positioned on opposite sides of the piston ; also that the oil scraper ring in the piston skirt is in proper engagement with its snug. The pistons and rings should he well oiled before their reinsertion, and we would emphasise the necessity for screwing up the bearing bolt nuts (lead tight before inserting their split pins. The previously washed sump may now he replaced in the reverse order to its removal, and the engine refilled with fresh clean oil. The use of jointing compounds when re-making the sump joint is not advised. The provision of generous cork jointing washers enables an oiltight joint to he achieved without difficulty and without the use of any special compound. I This illustration shows the manner in which the piston and connecting rod assembly is withdrawn.

SERVICE SHEET No. 515

SERVICE SHEET No. 515 MODEL D7 DISMANTLING AND REASSEMBLY OF HUBS AND BRAKES Both wheels are fitted with ball journal bearings which do not require adjustment. The bearings are packed with grease during