POST-REBUILD PREPARATIONS AND START-UP PROCEDURE FOR INDIAN WARRIOR
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1 POST-REBUILD PREPARATIONS AND START-UP PROCEDURE FOR INDIAN WARRIOR This procedure assumes the engine and gearbox are assembled properly and with assembly lube, installed in the bike frame, the electrical system is 6v with magneto rather than coil, the generator/voltage regulator installed, clear fuel and oil lines are installed, and the bike is completely assembled, except for the fuel tank (a temporary fuel tank will be rigged instead.) It may be helpful to have these manuals and instructions at hand: Overhaul Manual - Arrow & Scout Rider s Instruction Book - Arrow, Scout, Warrior Hints and Tips for Amal Carburetor types 274, 275, 276, and 289 Supplies: Aviation gasoline: Avgas 100 LL (100 octane, low lead, non-ethanol), can be purchased at local airport Oil for engine and transmission: o 40w Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (2 quarts) for first 100 miles and below 60 degree weather o 50w Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (2 quarts) after 100 miles and above 60 degree weather Oil for primary case: o 30w Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (1 quart) Lubricant for rear chain: o Du Pont Chain-Saver Wax-based Chain Lube Grease for throttle grip slots and shaft: o Bel-Ray waterproof grease Spark plugs: o Champion J6C, check/adjust gap to 0.03 Multi-meter: o Craftsman Battery: o YUASA B38-6A, proper acid and charger Light bulbs: o Headlight model: APF Pre-Focus P15d30a /25W 6V o Tail light model: GE 1158 o Speedometer light model: GE 55 (3w G4.5) Clean 2-liter plastic bottle, fuel line, and fuel shut off valve, rigged as a temporary fuel tank to allow easy access to the carburetor during engine testing.
2 Check alignment: Bolts: Handlebars to front wheel Rear wheel to front wheel Rear wheel sprocket to primary sprocket Inspect and tighten all bolts: o Engine o Gearbox o Frame o Handlebars/risers o Front axle o Rear axle o Chain guard o Spark plugs Wheels: Inspect wheel weights, tighten spokes Check tire pressure Chains: Inspect and adjust rear chain tension Adjust primary chain tension Cables and levers: Inspect and adjust: o Front brake cable: at wheel o Clutch cable: at gearbox o Throttle cable: at carburetor o Choke cable: at carburetor o Rear brake foot lever mechanism: rod, spring, switch connections, and connection to rear wheel
3 Electrical: Inspect, replace bulbs: o Headlight o Tail light o Speedometer light Inspect, tighten connections: o Spark plug wires (at the head and at the regulator) o Voltage Regulator o Magneto o Generator o Ignition switch o Tail light switch o Hi-lo switch o Horn button o All inter-harness connections Battery: o Fill battery with the proper acid according to instructions. o Charge battery according to instructions. o Install battery and connect the electrical system wires to their proper positive and negative terminals of the battery. Conductivity tests: Use a multi-meter to check that you have proper electrical conductivity (and non-conductivity) between components at each of the positions of the onboard switches: o Ignition (OFF, I, L, P) o Tail light o Headlight Hi-lo o Horn Exhaust: Tighten exhaust nipples and install exhaust headers (preferred to minimize oil spray from the cylinders when test running the engine). Caps and fills: Inspect and tighten oil fill caps and oil drain plugs: o Primary case fill and drain plug o Gear box fill and drain plug o Crank case fill and drain plug Oils and Lubricants: Oil Filling Procedure: To put oil into the crank case, remove the breather line from the engine to oil tank and unscrew the fitting in the crank case. Fill a pump-type oil can with around 3-4 oz. of 40w engine oil, and pump the entire can into the crank case. Replace the fitting in the case and re-connect the breather line. Before start-up, fill the supply oil line
4 Fuel: (rear line) from the oil tank with oil from the oil can and reconnect the line to the tank. This removes air bubbles from the supply line from the tank. Fill the return oil line (front line) in order to prime the oil pump. Fill the oil tank to a maximum of half a tank (1 ½ quarts total). Fill the primary case with the 30w oil up to the lower edge of the level screw hole. Fill the transmission with the same 40w oil as the engine, up to the bottom of the Oil Level Plug. After 100 miles and weather temps below 60 degrees, replace the 40w oil in the engine and transmission. After 100 miles and weather temps above 60 degrees, replace the 40w oil in the engine and transmission with 50w oil. Lubricate rear chain Lubricate, lightly, the slots in the throttle grip shaft, and very lightly on the shaft itself. Preferably, use aviation gasoline (non-ethanol) which can be purchased from a local airport. Remove the fuel tank. This allows easy access to the carburetor. Assemble a temporary gas tank using an empty, clean, 2-liter soda bottle rigged higher than the carburetor. Attach a fuel line from the bottle to the carburetor separated by a fuel shut-off valve. The shut-off valve is good for controlling starting and stopping the gas flow; if the carb is leaking, or to stop the engine after fire-up. Preparations for Starting the Engine: 1) Carburetor: Install and adjust throttle and choke cable connections to the carburetor according to the instructions on page C-23 of the Repair and Overhaul Manual. 2) Secure the bike: The bike should be resting on its center stand when starting the engine. Ask a friend to keep weight on the front end of the bike to lessen the chance of the bike taking off if the rear tire touches the ground. Starting the Engine for the FIRST TIME AFTER A REBUILD: 1) Open the shut-off valve at the bottom of the fuel tank. Check the gear shift for neutral position, and leave the clutch engaged. 2) Set the ignition switch to OFF. 3) Push the choke lever to the closed position. 4) Open the carburetor throttle about one-third and kick-through on the kick-start pedal, 4 to 5 times, to draw gasoline into the cylinder. 5) Open the choke half-way, turn the ignition switch to I and kick-through on the kick-start pedal until the engine starts. 6) Open the throttle just far enough to keep the engine running while warming up. Open the choke gradually. Do not race the engine. Allow the engine to warm up before operating at high speeds or under heavy loads. Starting a warm engine does not require that the carburetor be choked.
5 Tests with Engine STOPPED: Electrical spark from magneto: Pull a spark plug with plug wire attached, and place the spark plug tip against the heads or any good place on the engine to ground the spark plug. Kick the motor over. You should see a blue-colored spark. A weak yellow or very slight spark indicates a problem. Battery stored power: Use a multi-meter, set to voltage, in order to measure the stored power in a battery in the resting condition. A voltage reading of 6.0v to 6.5v (max) is good. You should wait 2 hours before testing the battery if the battery was just on a charger. Tests with Engine RUNNING: Oil flow: Check the clear oil lines to see if oil is flowing to the crank case and returning to the oil tank. Throttle and carburetor: Check for smooth operation of the throttle grip and carburetor. Make fine tuning adjustments to the carburetor for proper idle speed and full throttle. See Overhaul Manual and Amal Carburetor Hints and Tips for detailed instructions. Electrical power generation: Use a multi-meter, set to amps, to check the generators power output. 10 amps is the maximum that can be expected from the Indian Factory-supplied generator. With engine running at a very fast idle, switch the multi-meter to volts, check the generator. It should show a reading of 6 volts or greater (6.4v to 6.7v is normal).
6 Springtime maintenance (or every 1,000 miles): Change oil in engine, transmission, and primary case Inspect and tighten oil fill caps and oil drain plugs Inspect and adjust all cables as necessary Inspect and lubricate, lightly, the slots in the throttle grip shaft, and very lightly on the shaft itself. Replace rear chain, adjust tension, and lubricate Adjust primary chain tension Replace spark plugs, gap to 0.03 Replace fuel filter Inspect, tighten all bolts Inspect wheel weights, spokes, wheel alignment Inspect, clean, and secure all electrical wires and connections as necessary. Inspect/replace all light bulbs as necessary: o Headlight, Hi-low operation o Tail light, brake light operation o Speedometer light Starting a COLD, Broken-In Engine: 1) Open the shut-off valve at the bottom of the fuel tank. Check the gear shift for neutral position, and leave the clutch engaged. 2) Set the ignition switch to OFF. 3) Push the choke lever to the closed position. 4) Open the carburetor throttle about half-way and kick-through on the kick-start pedal, 3 to 4 times, to draw gasoline into the cylinder. Or, press the tickler button on the carburetor for 5 to 10 seconds, followed by 2 to 3 kicks of the pedal. 5) Open the choke half-way, turn the ignition switch to I and kick-through on the kick-start pedal until the engine starts. 6) Open the throttle just far enough to keep the engine running while warming up. Open the choke gradually. Do not race the engine. Allow the engine to warm up before operating at high speeds or under heavy loads. Starting a warm engine does not require that the carburetor be choked. Starting a HOT, Broken-In Engine: 1) Open the shut-off valve at the bottom of the fuel tank. Check the gear shift for neutral position, and leave the clutch engaged. 2) Set the ignition switch to I. 3) Open the carburetor throttle about half-way and kick-through on the kick-start pedal until the engine starts usually 1 or 2 kicks. Or, if the engine is only slightly warm, press the tickler button on the carburetor for 10 to 15 seconds, then kick 1 or 2 times.
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