The 1995 Chrysler LeBaron Some significant changes to thwart thieves, but not NLAA locksmiths.

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1 TM The Official Publication of the NATIONAL LOCKSMITH AUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATION Publisher's Page...page 3 Director's Page...page 4 Starting Line...page 5 Fill It Up With Regular...page 8 Life In The Fast Lane Mercede...page 13 Joe s Garage...page 22 Dealing with Dealers...page 24 How The Heck?...page 25 Nuts & Bolts...page 27 Feature Articles: The 1995 Chrysler LeBaron...page 1 The Z-Tool Story...page 40 The Not-So-Amazing Ford Contour...page 44 Auto Parts...page 48 T The 1995 Chrysler LeBaron Some significant changes to thwart thieves, but not NLAA locksmiths. he 1995 Chrysler LeBaron has some changes for the automotive locksmith. Chrysler has made some changes to the ignition because of car thefts. This model is popular with rental car fleets as well as car thieves. (See photograph 1.) By Michael Hyde FEATURE ARTICLE Opening This is an easy car to open, it has vertical linkage that is not shielded. I used the Z-Tool from Slide Lock Tool Co. to open the door. Use wedges and a light, if necessary. (See photograph 2.) (Continued on page 31) SUMMER The 1995 Chrysler LeBaron.

2 FROM THE PUBLISHER Marc Goldberg It's hard to believe that it is time to write another Publisher's Page for the AUTOMOTIVE EDGE, your NLAA newsletter! By now you can see that the NLAA is doing good work to keep you at the forefront of the wild, wooly world of automotive locksmithing. There are a few notes to be aware of. Keep your eyes glued to The National Locksmith magazine, for word of the new 1995 update for the AutoSmart manual. This will be a massive update, including a ton of information for the 1995 model year. So if you have an AutoSmart, you will want this update. And if you don't yet have an AutoSmart, what are you waiting for?? National Locksmith Automobile Association Publisher Marc Goldberg Director Tom Seroogy Printed in U.S.A. NLAA, a division of National Publishing Co. Publishers of THE NATIONAL LOCKSMITH 1533 Burgundy Parkway Streamwood, Illinois Phone Fax address: natllock@aol.com If you have an electronic mail address, be sure to send me an E Mail and give it to me. My E Mail address is natllock@aol.com. When I receive your mail, I will put you on the list to receive information and timely bulletins. You won't believe how much good information you can get quicker if you register with us. Not long ago I wrote in The National Locksmith about a locksmith who had made illegal photo copies of the AutoSmart and had sold them out of his car trunk. We did put a quick stop to that guy, under threat of severe legal action. Moreover, I filed a grievance with ALOA against this Maine based "gentleman," and he quickly resigned from ALOA rather than defend himself. Oh, want to hear the corker? This guy was also a member of the NLAA! Isn't that just MURPHY's law? Notice that I said he was a member of the NLAA. Believe me, he won't be reading this copy of your association's newsletter. I think his copy got lost in the mail. Unsolicited manuscripts are accepted, but must include SASE National Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved Summer 1995 Summer

3 DIRECTOR S PAGE Tom Seroogy We're off and running and things are looking pretty good. In fact, at the end of this letter I have some pretty exciting news for all of our members. In the meantime, I know many of you have questions regarding the NLAA. So, let me take this column to answer a few of the most common. Q: Why do we have to wait until after 1 p.m. to call for technical assistance? A: Quite simply, each issue of the NLAA Bulletins and NLAA Automotive Edge magazine demands a large amount of time to research and put together. The morning hours are when this is accomplished. While only a couple of our members have really made this an issue, please realize that the time I spend on the phone during those morning hours is taking away from the organization as a whole. It should also be stated that being able to field questions not only all day, but during the evening and on weekends is a goal we are working towards. Thanks for your patience now! Q: Can you give me a code by the VIN of the car? A: No. Not at this time. The code/technical hotline is used when you do not have the information for a known code, or you have questions regarding a code. With many codes available through Roadside Assistance Programs, trying to offer a code-by-vin service is redundant and unnecessary. Q: How come you don't know anything about the...? A: As stated in the previous newsletters: NLAA isn't us knowing it all, it's all of us knowing. I try to keep track of the majority of vehicles out on the road. Unfortunately, having both information and first hand experience on all vehicles is impossible. It's for this reason I rely on some of the best in the industry. Direct contacts with All-Lock, Strattec, Auto-Security Products, as well as other major manufacturers of automotive products and services are just a few of the sources. But then there's you. In fact, the first question in our "What The Heck" column is asking for information on the Maserati BiTurbo. This car has been in the States for some time, yet very little is known about specific service procedures. So, I pose this question to our association members. Fill us in on this vehicle, so all members have access to this information. (By the way, this information is for members only!) Plus, if you have questions that haven't been answered, let's give our membership a try. Q: Does the NLAA cover motorcycles? A: Yes, actually, we're going to try. The problem, however, is that there doesn't seem to be much motorcycle information available, especially on the newer most recent bikes. In fact, the NLAA and The National Locksmith are looking for a writer who knows motorcycles, semi-trucks, and/or antique autos. If you do either or both, give me a call immediately! And now for the news. Technical Writers Tom Mazzone, Michael Hyde and myself are now on America Online and ready to converse with our NLAA members about their vehicular exploits and experiences. That's right, now all NLAA members are invited to contact any one or all three of us, personally, at home, via AOL. While we may not be able to respond immediately, we will accept your technical queries, code questions, etc. and answer them as time permits. Addresses are as follows: Tom Seroogy AOL-SABERTEC2 Internet sabertec2@aol.com Tom Mazzone AOL-SABERTEC Internet sabertec@aol.com Michael Hyde AOL-LOCK PHD @?he?3@ 4 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

4 Beginning The Ford 5-Pin Here's your first lesson in the standard Ford 5-Pin system, used since the late 1960s. By Tom Seroogy F or the beginner, the Ford 5- Pin lock is probably one of the easiest locks on which to work. This lock system started in the late 1960s (approximately 1967) and has enjoyed a long and successful employment into virtually every American Ford automobile until the mid- 1980s, when their 10-Cut system was introduced. All locks, except the glove box, have remained pin tumbler, using five spaces and a double sided courtesy key. (A true double sided key has cuts on each side of the key that are used in a lock. A courtesy key is cut the same on both sides, but only one side of the key is used in the lock.) With the Mustang as an exception, the Ignition and Door Locks used the same key, and the glove box and the trunk used the same key until about After that time, the ignition used the primary key by itself, while the doors, glove box and trunk were put onto the secondary key. When picking or servicing these units, the pin tumblers for the ignition come up from the bottom, while the rest of the locks have the tumblers coming down from the top. This is especially important when impressioning. Code series and keys for these locks are as follows: Primary - FA 0 to 1863 using the Curtis H51 or Ilco 1167FD key blank. Secondary - FB 0 to 1863 using the Curtis H50 or Ilco S1167FD key blank. Bitting for the FA and FB series codes are identical and only indicate whether it applies to the primary or secondary key for that vehicle. Generally, up until the late 1970 s the secondary code could be found on the glove box lock casing. LOCK RETAINER 1. While in many Ford columns it is necessary to tear down the column or remove the column shroud to gain access to the retaining pin, many trucks and vans allow easy access outside the column. National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

5 Primary codes were not found on any lock on the vehicle. Common service problems for these locks include corroded lock tumblers and compressed springs in the door. Common to the Ford 5 pin ignitions is having the buzzer activator switch break and fall inside the keyway. The buzzer switch is attached to the side of the lock, located at the top of the keyway and contacts the key when the key is inserted. After repeated key insertions, the contact area of the switch wears, breaks and falls into the lock's keyway. When the owner inserts a key, the broken piece is pushed back and jammed into the lock. This prevents the key from fully seating, thus preventing the lock from turning. If caught early enough, this piece can often be extracted and the lock continued to be used, although the buzzer activator is no longer operable. Up until about 1980 or 1981, the door panels had to be removed in order to remove the horseshoe clips that held the door lock in place. On later versions of the car line, the door clip was accessible from the outside edge of the car door, making removal and replacement a real dream. The ignition lock is held into the housing by a pin retainer. To depress the pin, the lock must be in the ON position. Because the retainer is not spring loaded, it will stay depressed until the ignition is turned passed the ON position or to the OFF position. Key Generation The Ford 5-pin lock is fairly simple to impression. For most locksmiths, this is probably the first method to attempt. If impressioning does not work, or is not your strong point, try these alternate methods: For models where the ignition and door are on the primary key, remove and disassemble the door lock. The secondary key can be made by picking, removing and disassembling the trunk lock. On later model Fords, where only the ignition is on the primary key, the lock will have to be picked for disassembly or drilled and replaced. If picking, remember that the tumblers are located at the bottom of the keyway. Both tryout keys and rocker picks have 2. Use a key or pick the lock to the ON position and depress the retaining pin. NO BUZZER SWITCH 3. Pull the lock out of the column. You will notice that this lock does not have the customary buzzer switch attached to its top. While this occurs on some trucks, in most instances it means that the lock has been previously removed. 6 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

6 shown themselves effective for turning this lock. Because care must be taken when drilling, we will cover ignition removal without a key in our next issue. To produce a door key in later model Fords, either remove the glove box lock to retrieve three of the five cuts, then progression or impression the two remaining cuts. If impressioning, generally the trunk lock yields better marks. If a glove box is not available or it is not feasible to work on, remove and disassemble the @?he?3@ 4. Further inspection of the column reveals that someone has been here before. Seen is the sector gear that drives the ignition rack and switch rod. A cover plate and snap ring that prevent this piece from being removed is missing. Should this piece come out and the rack moved, it is necessary to re-time the gear and the rack. RETAINER TUMBLER AND SPRING CAP Do you have an address? Send it to us! AOL: NATL LOCK Internet: natllock@aol.com 5. The removed lock with the retaining button extended. Also visible is the tumbler and spring cap. National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

7 Standard Auto Service GM's Non-Tilt Square Column Lack of exposure and hands-on experience continues to make this column a problem. By Tom Mazzone D espite having been around since 1988, I constantly receive requests for service procedures on GM Square Column vehicles. These include the 1988 to 1993 L and W body vehicles; Chevrolet Corisica, Lumina and Beretta, Oldsmobile Cutlass, Pontiac Grand Prix, and Buick Regal. I believe this is because, that despite the number of years this column has been out, very few locksmiths have had reason to service it. Of course, this lack of exposure and hands-on experience continues to make this column somewhat of a problem. Two styles of the Square column exist, tilt and non-tilt, and both have separate and very distinct service procedures. In this article we will cover the non-tilt version, more commonly found on the Chevrolet Corsica. (See photograph 1.) Unlike the typical GM Saginaw Round style columns, the steering shaft lock plate has been eliminated and the steering shaft lock function is performed deeper inside the upper bowl, beyond the 1. The GM non-tilt Square Column from a Chevrolet Corsica. 2. Looks can be deceiving. At this point it seems ignition lock removal is a few steps away. However, there s more to this column than meets the eye. 8 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

8 3. Pull the horn tower/canceling cam of the steering shaft and place in a safe place. locksmith s normal area of service. Despite all the 5. Remove the hazard switch button, the final obstacle to upper shroud removal. differences, with some experience, this column is actually much faster and easier to service than the round style columns. To start, the steering wheel must be removed and is identical to other GM steering wheel removals: R e m o v e hornpad, remove shaft nut retaining ring, remove steering shaft nut, index steering shaft and steering wheel, use a wheel puller to remove steering wheel. After the steering wheel is 4. Use a T20 Torx driver to remove the shroud/turn signal assembly mounting screw. Placing the turn signal switch to the right turn position, makes access to this screw a little easier. removed, the horn tower/ canceling cam and turn signal switch are immediately visible. (See photograph 2.) This is rather deceptive at this point. All appearances indicate that we can simply remove the turn signal switch assembly and remove the ignition lock. Not so. Before further disassembly can continue, the upper shroud must be removed. At first glance, there is little to indicate how this piece is held in place. Begin by removing the horn tower/canceling cam. (See photograph 3.) Then, using a T20 Torx driver, remove the upper shroud/turn signal switch assembly mounting screw, found at the upper right hand portion of the turn signal switch assembly. (See photograph 4.) Now, if you ve read this carefully, you ll notice that this screw was referred to as the upper shroud mounting screw. Once the screw is removed, visible is a mounting tab used by the National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

9 6. Gently pry the upper shroud off and around the steering shaft and turn signal lever. 7. Remove the turn signal/dimmer switch lever by using a T20 Torx driver to remove its mounting screw. 8. Now the turn signal switch can be removed. Use a T20 Torx driver to remove the last two screws holding it in place. shroud to fasten and secure it to the column. Outside of the steering wheel and the hazard switch, the screw is the only piece preventing the removal of the upper shroud. To remove the final obstacle for shroud removal, use a #1 Phillips screw driver to remove the hazard switch button, found on the lower, right hand side of the column. (See photograph 5.) With the button removed, gently pull up on the upper shroud. While it may seem that there are other fasteners holding this unit in place, it is simply just very snug. If necessary, use a small straight blade screw driver to pry the piece up and loosen it from the rest of the column. Be careful to prevent marring the 9. This is where I get most of my calls; The locksmith gets to this point, doesn t see any way to access and remove the ignition retaining screw and then wonders - Now what?! shroud and column. Then lift the shroud out and over the steering shaft and slide it off over the turn signal lever. (See 10 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

10 11. Remove the three T30 Torx bolts that hold the cover on. 10. Compress the upper bearing spring using the Stramer tool. Use a seal pick, screw driver or probe to pick up and remove the retaining ring. photograph 6.) Now use the T20 Torx driver to remove the turn signal/ headlight dimmer switch lever mounting screw. (See photograph 7.) The end of this lever is a small ball that fits onto a corresponding socket a little deeper inside the upper housing. When replacing this piece, make sure that the ball end is correctly positioned or the light dimmer will not operate. At this point the turn signal switch assembly can be removed. Use the T20 Torx driver to remove the final two screws holding this piece on the column. (See photograph 8.) It is usually here that most locksmiths begin to wane, and wonder what to do next. All that is seen is a large black cover. The only access to the ignition lock s retaining screw is from the bottom access area used by the turn signal switch assembly wiring harness. Even then, the only thing that can be seen is the buzzer activator switch. The 12. Slide the cover off the column and let it rest, hanging on the turn signal switch assembly. solution to this dilemma is to remove the upper housing cover. (See photograph 9.) To remove the cover, the National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

11 13. The buzzer activator switch is much different than the typical GM switch and great care must be taken in its removal. 14. Remove the ignition lock retaining screw and Your done! upper bearing preload spring must be removed first. (Do not try to remove the bearing and race at this time. They are a part BUZZER SWITCH of the cover and will be removed when the cover is removed.) While other tools and methods may work, I ve found the Stramer tool from Kent Moore works quite well with a little patience and practice. Screw the tool down over the shaft to compress the spring. Keep turning until the retaining ring can be seen through the side access hole of the tool. Then use a seal pick, small screw driver or similar tool to pick up on the retaining ring. (See photograph 10.) With the retaining ring out of its seat, s l o w l y unscrew the Stramer tool, making sure that the retaining ring is following the tool. If it is not, use your probe to help move it up the shaft as the tool is unscrewed. Remove the retaining ring, spring and Stramer tool from the shaft. Next, remove the three T30 Torx bolts that hold the cover on. (See photograph 11.) Gently pull up on the cover, rocking a little if necessary, to loosen it from the steering shaft. Once free, let the cover slide down and over the turn signal switch wire harness and hang from the turn signal switch assembly. (See photograph 12.) There! We now have access to the buzzer activator switch and ignition lock retaining screw. Unlike the Standard Round Column, the buzzer activator switch in the Square Column is connected to a wire loom that goes down into the column, and cannot be removed from the column. To remove the switch, gently grab with a hemostat or needle nose pliers and pull straight out. Grab the plastic portion of the switch and not the wiring! Make sure that a key or blank is not in the ignition lock, as this will lock the buzzer switch in place. Once removed, let it hang. (See photograph 13.) Using a T20 Torx driver the ignition lock retaining screw can now be removed. (See photograph 14.) And the ignition removed. (See photograph 15.) Reverse procedure @?he?3@ 12 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

12 High Security Auto Service Mercedes Overview: Chassis 201 and 202 Michael Hyde begins our journey into the world of Mercedes. By Michael Hyde T his issue of the NLAA we start a series of Mercedes- Benz articles that will be an overview of the Mercedes locking systems that you may run across at one time or another. Mercedes dealers will usually describe the cars by chassis numbers instead of the exact model. Later in the series we will give you a chart to help you determine the model you have by the chassis number and locking system it should be using. Because of variations in Mercedes locking systems it can be difficult at times to be exact on every model and chassis. MERCEDES 201 CHASSIS One of the terms Mercedes dealers use is "workshop edition." This means that the lock is not coded to the particular car your working on, but to a randomly coded key. We start out with the Mercedes model 190E, Chassis 201. Chassis 201 Ignition Locks This Mercedes uses two different types of ignitions, depending on the year of the car. The one pictured in photograph one is for a 1990 to 1993 model. It uses a Two-Track High Security Keyway. If the car has a factory alarm the key will have 13 cuts on each track. If it does not, the key will have 10 cuts on it. Either way the ignition will accept both types of keys, since the ignition has cuts 1 through 10 in it. To remove the key cylinder 1. Ignition typical of the 1990 to Chassis Mercedes. MERCEDES CHASSIS 201 Key Blanks: Alarm Version - Silca HU55P, Ilco S34YSP Non-Alarm Version - Silca HU41P, Ilco S59HFP MACS: 2 Tumbler Positions For Alarm Version X X X X X X X X X X Ignition, Trunk X X X X X X X X X X X X Doors Spacing (Bow To Tip) Tumbler Positions For NonAlarm Version X X X X X X X X X X Ignition, Doors, Trunk Spacing (Bow To Tip) National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

13 2. Inserting the wire for removing the bezel and ignition cylinder. 3. The ignition cylinder removed from the housing. 4. The older ignition housing is on the right. The newer version on the left has been beefed up to increase its security. 5. There is also a difference in the bezels. The newer one is on the left. 6. The hardened face cap is held to the plug by a roll pin. Instead of trying to remove the pin and plug, simply place a workshop cylinder in the vehicle and order the keyed version from the dealer. 7. If the face cap is removed, the plug comes out from the back of the cylinder. from the ignition housing you must have a working key. Insert the working key and rotate it to the first position or the ACCESSORY position. Insert a double ended wire through the face of the lock and down into the housing where it will depress the cylinder retainer spring and the locking lugs in the housing.(see photograph 2.) It may be necessary to wiggle it around a little to make sure it fully engages the locking lugs. It will also help to file the tips of the wire inward to better engage the locking lugs. Pull outward on the key, the 14 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

14 8. The ignition contains tumblers for positions 1 through The lever on the left is the buzzer switch lever. When the key is inserted into the lock, the lever rotates slightly, activating the buzzer. 10. The alarm version door lock. Knock out the two roll pins to begin disassembly. 11. Separate the front from the back portion of the lock. Remember to insert a key to keep the wafer tumblers from flying out of the plug. cylinder and steel bezel should release. (See photograph 3.) In photograph four the 1984 to 1989 version of the ignition housing is pictured on the right, next to the newer version, on the left. You can see that the newer version has been beefed up with more metal to enhance its anti-theft capabilities. There is also a difference in the steel bezels that secure the cylinders. (See photograph 5.) The ignition cylinder face cap secures the plug into the housing. There is a tension pin that goes through the face cap and into the plug. It is almost impossible to remove the tension pin from the face cap. The problem is that when you try and take it apart, the plug will usually shear. The plug is made of pot metal and the face cap is made of hardened steel. Something has to give way. It is best to use a workshop edition to temporally replace the cylinder and replace the workshop edition with a coded one for the car, from the dealer. Standard turn around time is two weeks. (See photograph 6.) With the face cap removed, the plug comes out the rear of the cylinder as seen in photograph seven. The plug contains 10 tumblers, in positions 1 through 10. (See photograph 8.) The cylinder also has a key buzzer lever, that when the key is inserted, the lever will rotate slightly to activate the buzzer. (See photograph 9.) Chassis 201 Door Locks The door locks are secured to the car by a 4mm Allen head set screw on the edge of the door. To remove the lock from the car, first remove the set screw and, if equipped, disconnect the National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

15 alarm contacts found behind a large plastic cap right above the set screw. To remove the cylinder, insert the working key and rotate the key and gently remove the cylinder. This will take a little pulling, back and forth as the cylinder is held tightly in place with the handle assembly. Remember to take your time and be gentle with the removal of the cylinder. The tailpiece of the door cylinder has a wing tip on it that fits into a plastic cam that works with the latching assembly. Because of the opening in the cam, the wing tip of the tailpiece is interlocked into the cam. That is why it is necessary to rotate the cylinder with the key in order to remove the door cylinder. There are two types of door locks. One with alarm and one without. The first is the alarm 12. In order to remove the plug from the shell, the plug must be turned. To do this without a working key, shim the lock from the back. type. (See photograph 10.) To disassemble it you will need to remove the two large tension pins. Use a pin punch to knock them through. Separate the forward section of the housing from the rear section. Insert the working key and rotate the plug until it lines up with the ward in housing, allowing the plug to slide out the front. If you do not have a working key, then you will need a key with 13 cuts on it and all the cuts made to be number 5 depths. Use Silca key blank number HU55P for or Ilco S34YS. Insert the prepped key. Separate the forward section of the housing from the rear section. (See photograph 11.) While the prepped key is in the lock, you will need to bring the rest of the wafers to the shear line in order to rotate the plug to line up with the ward in the housing, to allow the plug to slide out the front of the lock. I use lock pick tension tools to slide down the tumbler 13. The alarm model door lock contains tumblers in positions 2 through The door locks to the non-alarmed model. 16 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

16 17. The disassembled non-alarm door lock. chambers and depress the tumblers to the shear line. There is a technique to doing this. It will take patience and practice to become efficient. (See photograph 12.) The alarm model door plug contains 12 tumblers, in positions 2 through 13. (See 15. After marking all the parts for position, knock out the roll pin that holds the tailpiece to the plug. 16. The door lock plug of the non-alarmed model contains all 10 cuts for the key. photograph 13.) The other door lock is the non-alarm model, as seen in photograph 14. Remove the tension pin in the tailpiece by knocking it out with a pin punch. Remove the tailpiece and don't forget to mark the piece, for re-assembly purposes. There is also a small rubber piece that sits on the end of the tailpiece. (See photograph 15.) Insert a working key and rotate the plug until it lines up with the ward in the housing and then slide the plug out. The door cylinder plug contains all 10 tumblers for a complete key on a non-alarm chassis 201. (See photograph 16.) If you do not have a working key, the only way to get the plug out is to mill or Dremel an area on each side of the cylinder housing, where the tumbler chambers are, so as to manipulate the tumblers to the shear line. I do not recommend this as there is no way to restore the cylinder to its original condition. The cylinder can be purchased from Auto Security Products, Part # D (left side), and D (right side). Average selling price is $ The cylinder disassembled is shown in photograph 17. Chassis 201 Trunk Lock The trunk lock is secured to the car by two 8mm bolts. Mercedes uses two different types of trunk locks on this chassis. This chassis trunk lock is a combination of the lock cylinder and the latch all in one unit. The only difference is in the way the tailpiece connects to the lock unit. The first one, the tailpiece is attach by a screw directly into the cam on the back of the lock. The second one, the metal part of the tailpiece end is widened so it cannot be removed without breaking the cam on the lock. You need to remove it at the cam or disconnect the tailpiece National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

17 where it connects with the car's vacuum locking system. (See photograph 18.) To disassemble the lock cylinder from the latch part of the unit, remove the 'E' clip on the back of the lock and remove the cam unit. Be sure to mark all the pieces for re-assembly purposes. Next, unsnap the front trim piece that encircles the front of the cylinder. The unit is under spring pressure, so be careful. (See photograph 19.) Now that you have removed 18. The trunk lock on this chassis serves as both lock and latch. Here you can see both sides of our lock. UNSNAP 19. After removing the snap ring, carefully pull off the front trim piece of the lock. It is spring loaded, careful! BALL BEARING 20. Insert a working key and turn the plug to remove. Be careful as a detent ball bearing and spring are armed and dangerous. 21. The trunk lock contains tumblers in positions 1 through 10 for both the alarmed and non-alarmed model. 18 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

18 22. The totally disassembled trunk lock. 23. The new Mercedes C-Class, 202 Chassis with a completely revamped ignition design. 24. Use a working key to turn the plug to ACCESSORY, turn the bezel counter-clockwise 90 degrees and pull the lock out. 25. The detent in the housing can be seen here. the cylinder, insert a working key and rotate the plug to remove it. Watch out for the detent ball bearing and spring that could fly out of the cylinder. (See photograph 20.) The trunk cylinder plug contains 10 tumblers in positions 1 through 10, whether the car is equipped with a factory alarm or not. (See photograph 21.) The lock completely disassembled is pictured in photograph 22. The lock cannot be taken apart without a working key, because of the ward in the lock cylinder housing. The tumbler kit for this car is ASP #A CHASSIS 202 NEW MERCEDES C-CLASS, 1994 AND UP The car uses a Two-Track High Security 10 Cut Key. MERCEDES CHASSIS 202 Chassis 202 Ignition Lock This is a whole new locking system for Mercedes. It incorporates new features never used before. The ignition cylinder does not have a secondary housing, meaning that the cylinder plug goes directly into the ignition lock Key Blank: Silca HU64P MACS: 2 Tumbler Positions X X X X X X X X X X Ignition, Doors, Trunk Spacing (Bow To Tip) National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

19 housing itself. The ignition lock assembly is pictured in photograph 23. To remove the cylinder, insert the working key and rotate the plug to the first position (or ACCESSORY position) and then rotate the black steel bezel counterclockwise about 90 degrees until it slides out of its detent. Gently pull outward on the key and the cylinder plug along with the steel bezel will slide off the ignition housing unit. (See photograph 24.) Photograph 25 shows the detent in the housing. The cylinder plug contains 10 tumblers. These tumblers are a new type and are different than the tumblers in the doors and trunk. The tumblers have a notch in them to lock them into the plug, because there is no secondary housing for them. The plug and tumblers are pictured in photograph 26. The tumbler kits are not currently available. Chassis 202 Door Lock The door cylinder does not have an alarm switch on it because the alarm function is now controlled through the latch assembly. It is secured to the car door by utilizing a 4mm Allen head bolt through the weather-stripping cavity on the edge of the door to the lock housing itself. (See photograph 27.) To remove the cylinder plug from the housing, remove the tension pin that secures the tailpiece and then insert the working key and rotate it until the plug slides out. (See photograph 28.) The door cylinder plug contains all ten tumblers needed for a complete key. (See photograph 29.) If you do not have a working 26. The ignition plug contains 10 new style tumblers. key, the only way to get the plug out is to mill or Dremel an area on each side of the cylinder housing, where the tumbler chambers are, so as to manipulate the tumblers to the shear line. I do not recommend this as there is no way to restore the cylinder to its original condition. The cylinder can be purchased only from the dealer, average cost is $45. The tumbler kits are not currently available. Chassis 202 Trunk Lock The trunk lock housing contains the key cylinder, alarm 27. The new lock is secured to the car door by a 4mm Allen head bolt that is accessed through the weather-strip cavity. 28. To remove the plug, start by removing the roll pin that holds the tailpiece to the plug. 20 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

20 29. The door lock contains all 10 tumblers needed for a complete key. 30. The trunk lock of the 202 Chassis. 31. Plug removal starts with the back of the lock and removal of the snap ring. micro-switches and the vacuum locking systems switches. The assembly is pictured in photograph 30. Before you start, remember you to mark all the pieces you take apart for reassembly purposes. To remove the key cylinder plug, remove the E-clip on the back of the lock. Next remove the two plastic cam pieces. Remove the keeper ring that holds the metal cam assembly in place. Remove the metal cam assembly. (See photograph 31.) Insert the working key and rotate until the cylinder plug slides out the front of the unit. (See photograph 32.) The trunk plug also contains all ten tumblers. The same tumblers used in the doors are used in the trunk cylinder. The lock cannot be taken apart without a working key, because 32. Turn the key and the plug will come out. of the ward in the lock cylinder housing. The tumbler kits are not currently available. National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

21 Those Shameless Shearhead Bolts Designed for security, these little guys can pose the locksmith some real problems. By Tom Seroogy S ince the arrival of our first foreign vehicle, locksmiths have been plagued with trying to remove the shearhead bolt. Designed as a security feature, the shearhead bolt is just that, a bolt whose head shears or breaks off at a specified torque. Without a head to turn the bolt, would-be thieves cannot easily remove and bypass the ignition lock. Of course, this also means that the locksmith and mechanic cannot easily remove and service the lock either. So, following, we will spend a little time discussing some of the methods used to remove these bolts. (See photograph 1.) Before proceeding, it should be stated that in many cases, the bolts are very hard to get to, often lying just beneath the instrument panel. It should be accepted that in these cases the column will have to be dropped to gain access to the bolts. Method 1 - Tap And Reverse Probably the fastest and most commonly used method is tapping and reversing the bolt out using a scratch awl or punch. This is especially effective on bolts that are not countersunk or shielded deeply within the top clamp. (See photograph 2.) To remove the bolts, take a scratch awl or pointed punch and tap a deep index mark as close to the outside edge of the 1. The shearhead bolt is used to make vehicle theft by ignition removal a little tougher. Here is a shot of two bolts before and after shearing. 2. Using a scratch awl to tap and reverse the bolt out. 22 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

22 bolt head as possible. This creates a good seat for the punch, allowing it to adequately grab the bolt for turning. With the bolt marked, place the tip of the punch in the index mark and lean it back as far as possible, in a line not quite tangent to the circumference of the bolt head. Gently start to tap in the direction the bolt unscrews. Make sure the direction of the punch follows the index mark as the bolt turns. If the index mark rotates to a position where a good striking angle is not possible, make another index mark on the head of the bolt and continue striking and turning the bolt from there. When the bolt is loose enough, simply placing the punch tip in an index mark and turning will remove the bolt. Remove the other bolt(s) using the same method. In some instances you will find that one bolt removes quite easily, while the other(s) won't budge. To help remove it, try tightening all other screws first. This will alleviate any excess pressure on the stubborn bolt and make removal a bit easier. Method 2 - Slot And Reverse This method only works well on those bolts that are not guarded deep inside the upper clamp, or hidden by other parts of the column. In other words, it works well on exposed bolts. The first part of removing the bolt requires either a Dremel tool with cutting blade (the preferred tool) or a hacksaw blade. Use the tool to cut a slot across the top of the bolt, wide enough to accept a straight blade screw driver. Then use a large screw driver to remove. Method 3 - Easy Outs Commonly called Easy Outs or Reverse Outs, these tools are similar to reverse fluted drill bits. To use, simple drill a hole down the center of the bolt being extracted, per the size of the Easy Out being used. Once the hole is drilled, screw the tool into the hole, applying constant, steady turning pressure. The reverse threading of the tool will bite into the bolt until the bolt eventually 3. Using Easy Outs to reverse the bolt out. breaks free. Great care must be taken not to over exert the bolt. Repeat for the rest of the tool or to turn it quickly or the bolts. sharply. This will cause the tool To make this drilling easier, I to snap off in the bolt, making recommend using the Bullet removal even harder. (See Point bits by Black & Decker. photograph 3.) The small pilot point keeps the A variation of this method is drill centered and avoids as follows: Once the hole is slipping off of the head of the drilled into the bolt, pound a bolt. The larger, flat cutting area Torx driver or other style driver helps cut the head away from bit down into the hole. Then the rest of the bolt without unscrew the bolt. While this damaging the upper clamp. method is not recommended Once the lock has been (use the right tool for the right removed, the rest of the bolt can job, fellas) it often works in a be removed from the lock body pinch. using a pliers or vice grip. Method 4 - Drill Bolt Replacement In most cases, drilling the bolt In all instances except drilling, heads off is the manufacturers save the bolts for reinstallation. method for removing these To reinstall, use a Dremel tool types of ignitions. with cutter or a hacksaw to cut To drill, choose a bit that is a slot in the top of the bolt. Use larger in diameter than the bolt. a large straight blade screw Center and drill straight down driver to replace @?he?3@ on top of the head of the bolt until it is free from the rest of National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

23 Weapons And Ammo - Part 1 We've identified the beast, we know its habits and environment, now we need weapons and ammo! By Tom Seroogy T hus far, in our pursuit for the gold, we ve identified the Dealer as our quarry. As the hunter, we ve discussed the nature and environment of our prey: How they operate, what aspects of their business makes them vulnerable to our pursuit, etc. But before we head out on the hunt, let s talk weapons and ammunition. Needless to say it would be foolish for any hunter to chase down big game without having the equipment or tools (or weapon, as it may be) necessary to take home the trophy. Again, we want their head on our wall. If we aren t prepared we may become the trophy. In general, there are three pieces of weaponry that are going to help us bag our game: Price, expediency and building relationships. In this issue we ll cover pricing. As we found earlier, the Dealer world is very deal conscious. Yet your pricing is going to have to reflect more than just the cost of making keys for cars. While there are those that will argue, my dealers were on a totally different price structure than standard or retail work. The difference in pricing was justified by the volume. In any given month I knew approximately how many dealer calls I would receive. Based on this quantity, the local competition, and my cost for doing dealer business, I established a fair dealer discount that was offered to all dealers, big and small. Granted, some dealers used me frequently, and others not so frequently. However, the pricing was based on amortizing the cost of all the dealer work I performed. The lower price, of course, helped me land more dealer accounts. The more dealer accounts I had, the easier it was to justify lower the price. When establishing a price, included must be provisions for the free work that s done once in a while: i.e. car openings while you re on the lot, duplicating a few keys, etc. How much free work you can offer is going to be dependent on your business, but it does need to be factored in. It s just simply a matter of how (or if) you can justify the cost. For example, the free work I offered was recouped through one of two ways - volume calls by that dealer (five or more cars per month), or, simply, a higher cost on ancillary services that I provided. One of the major misconceptions that locksmiths have when determining price is that of competency-versus-price. We tend to view competency and price as a direct relationship - the higher the competency, the higher the price I warrant; the lower the competency, the lower the price. Many use this as an excuse for not lowering their price when competition solicits their customers. Unfortunately, working on this basis is self defeating. The logical conclusion in this type of reasoning is that the competent will price themselves right out of work. I believe that competency should actually hold an inverse relationship to price. The higher the competence, the lower the cost; and, the lower the competency, the higher the cost. Here s the reasoning. (See page 26) 24 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

24 QUESTION: Where are the codes on a 1993 Ford Tracer? How do you make keys for it? Travis Alford, Weatherford Locksmith Service, Texas, #0769. ANSWER: Sorry to say, Travis, that the 1993 Ford Tracer does not have codes placed anywhere on the vehicle. Identical to the 1993 Escort, this car uses a variation of the Ford 10-Cut system. None of the locks have tumblers in the first three spaces or cuts of the key (bow to tip). From the door and/or trunk lock you can retrieve cuts 4 through 8. The ignition uses cuts 5 through 10. After cutting a key to fit the door, progression cuts 9 and 10 in the ignition. QUESTION: While not a common vehicle, I received two separate calls for information on the Maserati BiTurbo. (Probably two different shops bidding on the same car?!) At this point, information is hard to come by, so I'll let you have what I've got. ANSWER: The latest production date that I show for this vehicle is around The ignition uses the X157 key blank and RO1001 to 2000 series codes. Contradictory information on ignition code location exists, one source states the code is not stamped or located anywhere, another source states the code is located on or around the ignition lock. The ignition lock has wafer tumblers and is identical to that which is used by the Rover during the early and mid-1980s. The rather unique structure of this lock requires that the whole assembly be removed from the bottom of the lock housing. Four staked areas at the bottom of the housing, hold the lock contents in place. Once the staked areas have been removed, the components can be lowered for service. The door and trunk lock use the X64, X78, and X79 key blank; and code series 1100 to 1759, 3100 to 3759 and 5100 to The recommended method for key generation is impressioning. If any of our NLAA members have more or different information to offer on this vehicle, please send it in. A relatively thorough coverage of the ignition lock disassembly can be found in the Lynn Hawkins "European Auto Lock Service Manual," available through The National Locksmith. QUESTION: Another unusual car that more than one member had questions on is procedures for removing the ignition on 85 Merkur XR4Ti. ANSWER: Much easier than the BiTurbo mentioned above, the ignition lock on the XR4Ti is very similar to the older Capri ignitions and the newer Ford Contour ignition. Because this vehicle is a one key car using the FC7, X86 key blank and TX1 to 1859 codes, a key can be made for the whole car through the door lock. In the case of one member, however, the ignition had apparently been replaced and used a separate key. If this is the case, try the following: The most expedient method for making a key to this ignition is through impressioning. If that does not work the cylinder may have to be removed. There are two retaining methods on this lock cylinder: A spring steel retainer, similar to the VW lock, and a large snap ring on the back of the plug that is keyed into the lock housing. Pick the lock to the ON or RUN position and depress the spring retainer. The snap ring should be lined up with a broaching, allowing lock removal. If picking doesn't work, then drilling is the only other alternative. From our NLAA Covert Operations Team we have these reports: The 1996 Ford Taurus will be using a new electronic key system. Initial reports on this system have called it PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System), and has been in testing in the U.K. on the Ford Europe vehicles for several years now. The system is an integration of highly sophisticated electronic encoding and RF technology, developed by Texas Instruments (you know, the calculator people), and a standard mechanical lock. We'll reveal a little more on this technology and its application on the Taurus as more is available. Keeping up with Ford is GM. Many of you may have seen the new VTD/Passlock system article in the June 1995 issue of The National Locksmith. This system is being introduced on the 1996 Cavalier Z24 and Sunfire GT. Simpler than the previous VATS system, the new lock will integrate a magnet as part of the plug and a Hall-Affect sensor as National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

25 part of the shell or housing. When turned, the instrument cluster (Smart Cluster) looks for a proper resistance value, "signature" and timing to determine if the correct key is being used. If incorrect the fuel injection system is shut down, and the vehicle is not allowed to start. Initial release of this unit shows it should have only minor effects on the locksmith's ability to generate keys or replace ignition locks. We'll give the close and up front encounter as soon as these cars are released! A common problem on the GM Saginaw Round and Tilt style columns is broken and/or missing turn signal switch return springs. These springs help the switch return to the neutral or off position once a turn has been complete. And, unfortunately, after tearing a column down, we often find that one or both of these springs is broken or missing. Generally, customers already realize that a problem exists with the turn signal not returning. However, there are a few who insist that it was your fault that the turn signal does not now turn off after a turn. Well, we have the fix for you. Having been available for years, these little springs can be purchased from many GM dealer parts counters! Unfortunately, because even many dealers don't know they are available, you may have to convince the parts guy that they really do exist. Here are the numbers: Left - # , Right - # Finally, a bulletin to all Isuzu dealers informs us of the following theft problem. The new $35,000 Isuzu Montero truck comes with a full set of tumblers in all the locks, including the gas cover lock. Apparently this is well known to auto theft rings who make their rounds on dealer lots, exchange the working gas cover lock with a replacement, and take the original lock to a locksmith to have keys made for the vehicle. Needless to say the truck is long gone before the dealer has suspected anything. As a note: The dealer offering us this information toured his lot right after he received the bulletin and found three of his Monteros with changed locks. Any locksmith experiencing such activity should try and verify identification and vehicle ownership. If suspect, call @?he?3@ Dealing With Dealers (From page 24) Pricing should reflect your established hourly rate plus parts. (The hourly rate should be a reflection of what it costs to do business, including nonchargeable time, plus your desired profit.) Locksmiths with store locations and employees will typically have a higher hourly rate to cover the overhead that they have established. Oneman operations operating from the home typically have lower overhead and can offer a lower hourly rate. Competency pays off in two ways. First, the competent can generally produce more than the less competent. For example, I was able to offer dealer pricing based on the time it took me to do the average car. This average included all vehicles, from GMs, to Fords, to Mazdas, to etc. The average time for me to generate keys for a car was 20 minutes (longer for some, shorter for others), or roughly three cars per hour. If my hourly rate is $30, the average cost per car is only $10. Now, a less competent locksmith will not be able to generate keys for cars at that rate. Even at 1-1/2 cars per hour and an hourly rate of $30, each car will cost that locksmith approximately $20. In fact, in order to meet a $10 per vehicle cost, the less competent locksmith must drop his per hour rate by half, to $15. The second way competency pays off is by the type of work a locksmith can handle. The more types of cars, locking and keying systems a locksmith knows, the more he can offer his dealer! Remember, a dealer does not have time to be bothered with finding somebody new every time he needs service for a vehicle. If his current locksmith cannot handle the newer or high security lock systems, he ll more than likely go with one that can. In fact, after starting high security auto work (work that locksmiths in my area could not offer), my dealer accounts jumped by 10 percent in the first year. This translated into an additional 25 percent in that year s dealer income. I guess if I had to explain the correct relationship between competency and what to charge the customer, it should be this: Your customer should pay for the service your render. Competency will pay you for how well you render that service. Next time we ll cover the other two pieces of weaponry - expedience @?he?3@ 26 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

26 Those Amazing Force Tools While we hate the idea, sometimes force is the best way to accomplish a job. By Tom Seroogy F orce tools. Most locksmiths hate the words, hate the concept. However, in as much as I don't like the idea of breaking or forcing a lock, neither do I like spending more time on a job than it's worth. So, in this portion of Nuts & Bolts we'll take a closer look at some of the bypass and force tools available. Now I like to make a distinction between bypass tools and force tools. Bypass tools, typically drills, eliminate or remove the locking mechanism in a controlled manner. Force tools, on the other hand, crush, shear or otherwise destroy the locking mechanism, and are harder to control. Before we cover the tools, however, let's first consider the locks we may want to use them on. In recent history, a great many tools have been made for force turning or removing the GM column lock. While extracting a GM lock was useful and helpful for the locksmith, force turning the lock to start the car is pretty much useless. Today, after the introduction of the bolt retained GM lock, even 1. The HPC ITF-14 drill guide for the Ford 10-Cut ignition. extraction to a greater degree has been eliminated. While tools to both force turn and extract GM ignitions are still made, they are typically made for the benefit of the repossessor and not the locksmith. Therefore, we will cover those tools that will further or speed up the work a locksmith needs to accomplish. Take the Ford ignition lock, for example. Force turning and/or extraction can be beneficial because a new lock can be easily replaced. Therefore, we will cover tools that allow us to accomplish either of these tasks. We will cover bypass tools first. Amazingly enough, all the bypass tools I have are made for the Ford ignition, so, let's take a look. Among the players are HPC's ITF-14 Ford 10-Cut drill guide, Aable Locksmiths' Drill Block Ford 10-Cut drill guide, Lock National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

27 2. Aable Locksmiths' Drill Block template for the Ford 10-Cut ignition. 3. This guide by Lock Technologies is made for both the winged and round facecap used by the Ford 10-Cut. Technology's #76 Ford 10-Cut drill guide and Aable Locksmiths' Ford Disc-Out Kit. To set up HPC's guide, take an existing key and place it in the guide, making sure that the set screw is tight. (See photograph 1.) As there is no need to remove the facecap, simply place the key and guide into the ignition. Then, using a 1/4" drill, drill out the sidebar of the lock. The guide has a hardened steel bushing to protect itself from the drill bit. With the sidebar removed, turn the ignition, depress the retaining button and remove the lock. Aable's Drill Block is similar 4. Aable Locksmiths' Disc-Out for removing the Ford 5-Pin ignition. in approach except that the guide has its own key, does not include a hardened steel bushing and requires the removal of the lock's facecap before using the tool. (See photograph 2.) The drill guide by Lock Technology operates on both the standard winged 10-Cut Ford ignitions, as well as the domed or round facecap ignitions found on the Taurus and Sable. (See photograph 3.) Also, roll pins instead of key blanks are used to align the tool on the face of the lock. The guide does not have a hardened bushing. Like the other units, attach the template, drill the sidebar and remove the lock. Aable's Disc-Out is for removal of the Ford 5-Cut pin tumbler ignition. (See photograph 4.) Most locksmiths familiar with this ignition know that the shearline is protected by a hardened disc. The Disc-Out allows you to remove the disc and then shim the lock from the 28 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

28 5. Aable's The Persuader allows the locksmith to force turn the GM trunk lock. 6. The G-Pull by A-1 actually extracts the plug of the GM trunk lock. front. After shimming, turn the lock, depress the retaining button and remove the lock. Now let's look at the force tools. In our lineup we have Aable's The Persuader and Quick-On, A-1 Security Mfg.'s #GP1 G-Pull, Lock Technology's #350A lock extractor kit and #78 Ford Sure-Shot. Because they attack the same problem and the same lock, let's look at Aable's The Persuader and A-1's G-Pull first. Both of these tools are used to open the trunk of GM that is experiencing trouble with a popped retainer. As such, we know that the lock is already inoperable, and that forced entry, provided it does not harm the vehicle or locking components, is feasible. Aable's The Persuader is a force tool designed to shear the popped tumbler cap and/or the sidebar of the GM trunk lock. (See photograph 5.) After removing the facecap and dust cover, insert a correct key with the bow removed into the lock, place The Persuader over the key blade and seat on the lock plug. Use a wrench to turn the lock until the trunk opens. Replace the lock. Unlike The Persuader, the G- Pull is an extractor. (See photograph 6.) After removing the facecap and dust cover, screw the G-Pull into the lock plug. Seat the unit over the lock and turn the large wing nut to extract the plug. Once removed, use a screw driver to open the trunk and replace the lock. The rest of the tools are used, yes, again, on the Ford. With slightly different designs, Aable's Quick-On and Lock Technology's Sure-Shot are 7. Aable's Quick-On (left) and Lock Technology's Sure-Shot. National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

29 used to force turn the Ford 10- Cut ignition. To use, simply remove the lock's facecap. Then squarely and firmly pound either tool over the face of the lock. If using Aable's Quick-On, make sure that the two turning tabs have pierced the face of the lock. Once properly seated, use a 1/2" drive ratchet to turn the ignition. (See photograph 7.) Much caution should be taken when using this tool. In fact, it is recommended that the battery be disconnected before use. Because the sidebar is being sheared or forced back into the center of the plug, it is very hard to turn back towards the OFF position. Should it become stuck in the START position, the starter can become damaged. Lock Technology's #350 extractor is actually built to extract a number of different ignitions and locks. (See photograph 8.) The one I find most useful is for the Ford 5- Cut. To use, remove the wings from the face of the lock. Remove the detent pins from the lock and attach the #350's 8. Lock Technology's #350 extractor works well on the Ford 5-Pin ignition as well as many foreign ignition locks. Ford ignition plate using the sheet metal screws. Attach the rest of the extractor and use a wrench to remove the lock. Replace with a new lock. The #350 can also be used for fast removal of foreign ignitions. Simply extract the plug of the lock and then depress the lock retaining button on the shell to remove and replace the lock. For the HPC ITF-14 contact an HPC distributor or call (708) For Aable Locksmiths call (718) For A-1 Security Mfg. contact an A-1 distributor or call (804) For Lock Technology, call (800) , or inside Illinois @?hf@ 30 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

30 FEATURE ARTICLE 1995 Chrysler LeBaron (Continued from Front Cover) Ignition To remove the ignition, you do not have to remove the steering wheel or airbag.(see photograph 3.) It is necessary, however, to first disconnect the battery. Next remove the three T15 Torx screws that hold the column plastic clam shell shroud together, then unsnap the shroud halves and remove. To remove the ignition cylinder on this car you will have to remove the ignition/electrical switch assembly as one unit. The reason you have to remove both is because of Chrysler's new anti-theft security plate. Chrysler has replaced the active 2. Opening is a snap. Simply grab the exposed vertical linkage and you re in. 3. It is unnecessary to remove the airbag to work on this ignition. 4. It is necessary to remove this security plate in order to remove the ignition. It is held in place by these three security Torx screws. National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

31 5. The security Torx includes a post at the center of the screw head. 6. After removing the screws, the security plate will fall out of place. tension pin with a security Torx and steel plate. To remove the assembly you will have to remove the three T15 security Torx screws that hold it to the column. (See photograph 4.) The difference between a security Torx and a regular Torx is that on a security Torx there is a post in the middle of the head of the screw, preventing a regular Torx driver from entering. (See photograph 5.) (NOTE: Do not have the working key in the ignition cylinder until it has been completely removed from the car.) After you remove the screws the security plate will fall away from the column. (See photograph 6.) Next unplug the wiring connectors to remove the assembly from the car. (See photograph 7.) Once the unit is removed from the car, remove the black security Torx screw that secures the cylinder to the electrical switch unit. (See photograph 8.) Insert the working key while maintaining slight pulling pressure, rotate the cylinder 7. Unplug the electrical connectors to remove the unit from the car. 8. Now remove the security Torx that holds the ignition cylinder. 32 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

32 9. Use the key to remove the cylinder. 10. The original factory lock is press fit together. Disassembly is not recommended. plug to the ON position and then rotate it back to the OFF position. Remove the key and the cylinder should slide right out, behind the key. (See photograph 9.) The ignition lock cylinder is pictured in photograph 10. It is much easier to use a new lock service package instead of rekeying the original ignition lock. The factory lock has a tailpiece that is pressed on, and is difficult to service properly. The service package is Strattec # and costs about $12. (See photograph 11.) The ignition cylinder plug contains all seven tumblers used in the car. (See photograph 12.) There is a small metal buzzer part that must go in the rear section of the plug. It is somewhat difficult to figure which position it goes in. Make sure you insert the part so the slope on the top of it points toward the rear of the plug. (See photograph 13.) Before you assemble the unit don't forget to put in the spring and guide pin on the front of 11. Instead use the service package # from Strattec. 12. The ignition uses all seven positions. National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

33 13. Insert the buzzer activator part in the correct direction. 14. A roll pin holds the tailpiece to the plug. 15. The door panel must be removed to service this door lock. 16. Remove one Phillips head screw to remove the door release trim. the housing, use a little grease to ease its operation. When assembling the plug into the housing, the plug may get trapped by the buzzer activator in the cylinder housing. If this happens, use a small flat bladed screwdriver to lift the buzzer activator out of the way. A roll pin holds the tailpiece to the back of the plug. (See photograph 14.) To reinstall the ignition cylinder, slide the cylinder in while maintaining light pushing pressure, then insert the key and rotate to the ON position and then rotate back to the OFF position. Now reinstall the security Torx, to secure the cylinder from coming out. Before you reinstall the unit into the car, remove the key from the lock. The ignition/electrical switch assembly has two guide posts to help line it back up to the column. Take your time lining it up, as it may take a couple of minutes to place it in same position it came off. Remember not to have the key in it while lining it up. Doors The door panel needs to be removed to service the door lock. (See photograph 15.) First remove the inside door release trim piece by removing the one Phillips head screw. (See photograph 16.) Push the trim piece forward and then disconnect the wiring connector. (See photograph 17.) Remove the cloth trim piece in the armrest cavity and then unscrew and remove the single Phillips head screw. (See photograph 18.) Next, unsnap the speaker cover and remove. The cover is located on the forward lower section of the door. There is one Phillips head screw located 34 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

34 17. Move the trim piece forward and disconnect the electrical connectors. 18. Remove the arm rest screw. 19. Unsnap the speaker cover and remove the one screw found beneath it. under the speaker cover that needs to be removed. (See photograph 19.) You can now remove the door panel. Peel back the plastic protective film to access the inner door area. (See photograph 20.) To service the door lock cylinder it is easiest to remove the whole handle/lock assembly. The handle is held in place by a support plate. Remove the 20. The panel can now be removed. National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

35 21. The door handle is held in place by a support plate. Remove a single 10mm nut to remove the plate. 22. The handle removed. single 10mm nut and then the plate. (See photograph 21.) Next, disconnect the outside handle release linkage rod where it meets the latch mechanism. Disconnect the lock cylinder linkage rod at the latch also. They are held in place to the latch with the standard type plastic clips. Now the handle assembly can be easily removed from the car. (See photograph 22.) The lock is held to the handle by two Phillips head screws. Remove the screws, then pull the spacing block off the lock. (See photograph 23.) 23. Remove the two Phillips head screws holding the lock in the door. 36 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

36 24. Remove the E-clip that holds the pawl in place. 25. Remove the face cap. 26. The plug will now come out of the lock shell. 27. The disassembled door lock. The tailpiece needs to be removed to disassemble the lock, it is held in place by an E clip.(see photograph 24.) Remove the face cap and discard. Replacement cap is Strattec # Remember there are two small springs that sit under the shutter assembly. (See photograph 25.) Now slide the plug out of the cylinder housing. (See photograph 26.) The door cylinder plug has five tumblers in it, in positions 3 through 7. (See photograph 27.) Trunk Lock The trunk lock sits under the taillight assembly which needs to be removed to service the trunk lock. (See photograph 28.) There are ten 10mm nuts that hold the light assembly in place. Remove the bolts, disconnect the two taillight lamps, and remove the assembly. (See photograph 29.) The lock is held to the trunk lid by three 11mm nuts, remove them and take off the lock. The lock cylinder is mounted in a metal housing. There is a large tension pin that holds the cylinder to the housing. The roll National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

37 28. The trunk lock is part of the trunk lid and requires removal of the tail light assembly for service. 29. The tail light assembly removed. DRILL HERE. 30. After removing the lock from the trunk lid, drill a 1/8 hole above the roll pin that retains the lock in the housing. 31. The disassembled trunk lock. 32. The squeeze type glove box lock. pin is inserted in a one way hole. What I did was to drill a 1/8" hole above the pin and use a pin punch to force the pin out the other end of the hole. (See photograph 30.) Next, remove the tailpiece and spring, but remember how it goes back together. Remove the face cap and discard. Replacement cap is Strattec # Remember there are two small springs that sit under the shutter assembly. (See photograph 31.) 38 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

38 33. Hold back the two plastic tabs to release the plug out the front of the lock. The trunk cylinder plug contains five tumblers, in positions 3 through 7. Glove Box The glove box lock is held in place by a plastic horseshoe clip, similar to the squeeze type used in GM products. (See photograph 32.) The plug is held in place by two small plastic tabs on the rear of the lock. I use a small screwdriver to work the tabs out a little to slide the plug out the front. (See photograph 33.) The glove box cylinder plug has three tumblers in it, in positions 5, 6, and 7. Making First Key Method One: Use H. E. Mitchell s EEZ Reader in the door to obtain cuts in positions 3 through 7 and then use reader in ignition to get the two remaining cuts in positions 1 and 2 for a complete key. Method Two: Disassemble door or trunk lock to obtain cuts in positions 3 through 7 and then progression remaining cuts 1 and 2 for a complete key. NOTE: I do not recommend impressioning these locks as the tumblers are prone to breaking when forced. Code Series: L Key Blank: Ilco Y157, Silca CY22 HPC 1200CM: CX60 MACS: 2 First Cut:.297 FRAMON: Use Ford 5 pin clip and set for first Cut to Cut:.092 Depths: , , @?he?3@ National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

39 FEATURE ARTICLE The Z-Tool Story Dale takes a look at another set of opening tools. By Dale Libby I just received my update notice and Official Newsletter from The Slide Lock Took Company. A lot of things have changed since Slide Lock first offered the original Z-Tool set. These changes offer a lot of new innovations that help the locksmith successfully open any vehicle that he or she encounters. The new full program that contains all the new tools and fresh innovations is called the Grand Master Z-Tool System. The set contains nine tools and nine accessories, or has only 18 items total. A hard plastic carrying case which measures 30 (L) x 9 (W) x 5 (D), and easily carries all tools, reference book, and probe lights is available. It is especially long to carry the special across the car tools. There is plenty of room to grow for new additional tools. Photograph one shows three of the components in the kit. A short discussion of each is in order. First, and most important, is the multi-color system manual which is pocket sized and completely illustrated. The illustrations are the best in the industry. First, the car is looked up in the easy 78 page alphabetized 1. The System Manual, Hold Harmless Authorization Forms, and a squeeze bottle of weatherstripping lubricant. index in the front of the manual. Next, the manual refers the specific tool to use and to an opening procedure by number with any special or additional instructions. The referenced diagram shows in two color how to open and unlock queried vehicle. The manual covers over 800 lockout situations for vehicles from 1950 to the present and is 160 pages long. Included are foreign and domestic autos, trucks, and vans. This manual lays flat or can be suction cupped to the window of the car for hands free step-by-step review. Even the position and motion of the hands are illustrated for extra visual clarity. With the kit comes Authorization & Hold Harmless Release Forms. Do the forms work? Yes, and No. They cannot guarantee that you will not be sued by a customer, either right 40 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

40 or wrong. The courts decide that. And, yet, the object of filling out the form is to try and cover your services if they are ever questioned by a court of law or by the police department. The form wants you to list the Date, Authorizing Party, Driver's License number, Vehicle VIN#, and the person opening the vehicle. There is an additional checklist with an important line about the history of the opening. It will remind you to ask the lock-outee if someone has "Previously Attempted to open this vehicle." Both the customer and the service person gets a copy of this agreement. Another included item is the Lube Tube. This is a small plastic squeeze bottle that is filled with liquid dish washing soap and wind shield washer solvent. This is used to lubricate window frame gaskets and weatherstripping. When opening vent windows, this is especially important. Photograph two shows the Lube Tube and the new and improved Flex-A-Wedges. The new red wedge is made with a small hump which prevents the thin wedge from falling down into the door cavity of older, looser fitting windows. The hump also helps in inserting the wedge into tight newer fitting windows. The wedge is just wide enough to let all the Z- Tools work without the danger of window breakage that could possibly happen with wide and fat wedges. The backbone of the Z-Tool set is the Slide Lock tool. Photograph three shows the end 2. The New and Improved Flex-a-Wedges and the lubricant bottle. of the original Z-Tool and the new Inverted Z-Tool. The new tool is used on models with the lock linkages located below the door handle linkage. A small sample of cars that use this configuration include models of Toyota, Mazda, G e n e r a l Motors, and several other manufacturers. One of the hidden benefits of these tools is the notch that fits over the control rods, either with the 3. The Standard and the Inverted Z-Tools. Workhorses of the Master Z-Tool set. National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

41 4. Z-Tools with Serpentine Button tool in bottom of 30 plastic foam bottom carrying case. regular Z-or Inverted Z-Tool. These are not just stamped out, but also milled. The configuration will more easily grip the rod you are trying to move with the Mini-Box-Hooks. Both of these tools are made of high strength stainless steel which will hold their shape for years. A nice touch on both of these Z-Tools are the embossed depth guides on the edge of the tools. The directions tell you which depth guide mark to lower the tool to, in order to more easily find and contact the point you are looking for in the car. Photograph four shows the Z- Tools in the bottom of the padded case. Included is the New Serpent(ine) Tool. This is the button for both narrow and wide applications. Putting both these configurations on the same tool makes it very convenient. Photograph five displays more of the Z-Tool system. Shown is the Porsche 928 tool and the Japanese window button tool. In the center of the picture is the newly configured AutoBuster III tool. It has a new rounded top for easier insertion and a 9-1/2 reach. The longer reach and configuration of the tool make it easier to move the slide lock buttons and to also move the rocker type manual lock buttons that are making an appearance on newer cars. Other tools that are new to the system bedsides the Serpent Tool, the Mercedes Strip (similar to the Lemon Pop, Sully Strip) tool, and the Wing Window Tool. This last tool makes opening vans and other vehicles with vent windows a snap. It is also a good idea to use the lube tube lubricant with this tool. An addition to the 1994 Z- Tool set is the Frameless Window Tool made of stainless steel. This tool is used on high security doors which do not have a frame around the window. This tool is a two part extension implement which is screwed together to create an extended reach probe for door lock buttons and power lock rocker buttons. A wedge is inserted in the upper part of the window and the assembled tool is inserted. There is also a plastic tube on the outer end of the tool to keep the edge of the rod from rubbing directly against the window glass. Nice Touch. One of the more versatile features of the Z-Tool system is shown in Photograph six This is the bending chart that must be used on a few models. With this chart, you bend the basic Z-Tool to a sharper angle to extend the tool's normal reach. Another nice feature of the regular and inverted Z-Tools is that one tool is not the other with reverse hooks. The distance to the Mini-Box-Hooks is different on both tools, making the reach much more versatile. The Grand Master Z-Tool set includes a head lamp for night openings. The only other instrument that you might want to buy in addition is the Big "D" cell Door Cavity Probe Light that uses a broad spectrum replaceable bulb. This is a professional aviation probe light perfect for door cavity 42 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

42 5. Auto-Buster III tool, Porsche Tool, and Japanese Button tool. 6. Z-Tool Bending chart at rear of book. viewing. The standard AA type battery probe light will lose most of its brightness in under 35 minutes, usually. If you missed updating your Z-Tool set in the past, do not worry. All the tools are available for purchase separately, or for special prices if ordered with other tools or updates. Better yet, it may be simply better to start over and order the entire 18 piece Grand Master Set. This way you avoid having to buy additional tools to update older sets of the Z- Tools. Also it is a good idea to have a fresh or back-up Z-Tool around. I have personally used the Z- Tool system for seven years and have found the books and tools the best. As with anything, practice makes perfect. Other locksmiths have their special systems and tools, but now with the new hard double walled carrying case (which fits behind the seat of a full sized pick-up truck)the Z-Tool is my first choice when I am not in my service vehicle. Anyway, we have Scott Selby and his crew to thank for this updated and easy to use tool system. OPEN CARS and PROSPER. For further information and to order tools you can contact Slide Lock Tool Co. at 1166 Topside Road, Louisville, TN 37777,(800) , FAX @?he?3@ National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

43 FEATURE ARTICLE The Not-So-Amazing Ford Contour The differences in this vehicle have been overrated, and are actually variations of older systems. By Tom Seroogy A lot has already been said about the new Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique except that, after all is said and done, what is there to be nervous about? The keying is the same standard 10-Cut system that Ford has been using since /2. The ignition is highly reminiscent of the older Capri and later Merkur XR4Ti cylinders yet, as we will explain, is easier to remove when a key is not available. (See photograph 1.) In fact, about the only truly enlightening difference we noticed is the use of cables instead of rod linkage for the door lock and latch release. And it should be noted that the Honda Del Sol has used cable on their latch release as well. Now, these aren't insouciant remarks. While there are new lines, a new price tag and some new features to the locking system on this vehicle, it is, in fact, still a Ford. The above remarks are simply made to settle the cloud of fear that has been raised over this particular vehicle. Those more familiar with European and foreign auto work won't see the changes as changes, just variations of old systems. Besides, service to new as well as well known systems should be approached with the same appropriate degree of caution. And with this said, you can be sure that service to this vehicle is in the realm of any locksmith currently experienced at auto work. Now, let's start with the basics. As mentioned earlier, 1. Lockset from the new Ford Contour. this vehicle uses the standard Ford 10-Cut keying system. Starting from the bow, the door locks are wafer locks using spaces 1 through 6. The ignition is a sidebar lock using spaces 5 through 10. Well known is the sharing of spaces 5 and 6. [Note: Ford actually starts their spacing from the tip of the key. Space or cut one starts at the tip and cut 10 ends at the bow. Understanding the spacing from this perspective 44 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

44 PUSH BUTTON RETAINER 2. This lock uses a push button retainer and a snap ring that's keyed into the housing. make keying the locks and cutting keys on this system much easier to understand and follow. And, in fact, I recommend this approach. However, to accommodate the locksmith and most locksmith manufacturers who produce Ford aftermarket products, this article will follow the trade established bow-to-tip sequence.] The trunk and the glove box use the standard Ford 5-Cut secondary key. The glove box uses wafer tumblers in spaces 2, 3 and 4. The trunk uses tumblers in all five spaces and are wafer tumblers not pin. After removing the trunk lock, the wafers can be easily read through a drain hole on the bottom of the lock. Key Generation Primary Key: Method 1 - Use H.E. Mitchell's #H54 Eez Reader, sight read, impression, or use try-out keys to determine the cuts of the tumblers in the door lock. Then either use try-out keys or progression the cuts in the ignition. (A Ford 10-Cut progression chart is available PLASTIC TAB 3. The door locks use a plastic facecap. Be careful removing and replacing. Replacements are not yet available. National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer

45 TUMBLERS VISIBLE from H.E. Mitchell upon request.) Method 2 - Remove the door lock and read the tumbler depths through the drain hole on the bottom of the cylinder. Then either use try-out keys or progression the cuts in the ignition. Secondary Key: Method 1 - Sight read or impression the trunk lock. Method 2 - Sight read glove box lock. Then progression or impression trunk. Method 3 - Remove trunk lock and read tumblers through 4. The trunk lock in its sleeve. 5. The wafers for the trunk lock are easily visible through the bottom drain hole. drain hole in the bottom of the lock. Ignition Removal As stated earlier, the ignition cylinder is almost identical to the older Capri and later Merkur XR4Ti ignitions. The main difference is that instead of a spring steel retainer similar to the VW ignition lock, this unit uses a push button retainer. Besides the push button retainer, a keyed snap ring on the back of the lock plug holds the lock in the housing. (See photograph 2.) In order to remove this lock, the plug must be turned to the ON position to allow depression of the button retainer as well as align the snap ring with a ward or broaching in the lock housing. Method 1 - Remove plastic shroud. Use working key or pick ignition to the ON position. Depress the lock cylinder retainer found at about between the 12 and 1 o'clock position. Remove cylinder. Method 2 - If working key is not available, the lock does not pick or is malfunctioning, from the face of the lock drill and remove the sidebar and turn to the ON position. Depress the lock cylinder retainer and remove the lock. Note: The sidebar is located to the left-center of the keyway. While there is no hardened material covering the sidebar itself, there is a hardened ring insert in the cylinder that can easily damage or break the drill bit. Be careful. Door Lock The only variation from the norm on the door locks is the two piece plastic facecap. The facecap consists of the outer, trim portion, and an inner piece. The inner piece is actually a clear optical lens for the illuminated entry models. On models where there is not illuminated entry, this piece is black. The facecap uses heat staked plastic tabs hold it to the cylinder. As no replacements are currently available, remove them gently. I used a soldering gun to melt the tabs back in place. (See photograph 3.) Trunk Lock The trunk lock is held into the car and a large sleeve by a clip. 46 Summer 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

46 (See photograph 4.) While using a secondary key, this lock uses wafer tumblers instead of pin tumbler. They can be easily read through the bottom drain hole. (See photograph 5.) Like the door lock, the facecap is plastic and heat staked in place. If necessary, use a Dremel tool to cut away only the overlapping portion of the stake. Use a soldering gun to restake. (See photograph 6.) Glove Box If working on the glove box, the plug is held into the lock by three small tabs on the back of the plug. Use a small hollow tube to compress the tabs (I used a tailpiece from a Kwikset deadbolt) and release the lock cam or pawl and return spring. Then rake the tumblers to push the plug out the front of the lock. (See photograph 7.) To reassemble, simply press all the components back together. And there you have it, an easy lesson in the Contour/Mystique mystery lock system. Stay tuned to our future issues when technical writer Michael Hyde runs us through the full service lock procedure on this now familiar vehicle. For more information on the Eez Reader and progression chart, contact H.E. Mitchell at P.O. Box 14009, Portland, OR, Phone @?he?3@ PLASTIC TAB 6. This lock also has a plastic facecap and heat staked retaining tabs. LOCKING TABS 7. Three small locking tabs hold the glove box lock together. Using a small diameter tube to compress the tabs will release the plug out the front of the lock. National Locksmith Automobile Association Summer