GM 10-Cut Removal By A-1 Security Mfg. Fast ignition removal without the need for drilling or destroying the lock.

Transcription

1 TM The Official Publication of the NATIONAL LOCKSMITH AUTOMOBILE ASSOCIATION Publisher's Page...page 3 Director's Page...page 4 Starting Line...page 5 Fill It Up With Regular...page 11 Life In The Fast Lane Mercede...page 17 Joe s Garage...page 27 Dealing with Dealers...page 30 How The Heck?...page 31 Nuts & Bolts...page 33 From The On Ramp...page 36 Autoparts...page 38 Feature Articles: GM 10-Cut Removal By A-1 Security Mfg....page 1 Finishing Up The Scorpio...page 45 I GM 10-Cut Removal By A-1 Security Mfg. Fast ignition removal without the need for drilling or destroying the lock. t is not often a new product comes out that I say "WOW." In this case I'm talking about the GM 10-Cut Service Kit from A-1 Security Mfg. It is truly a service By Michael Hyde FEATURE ARTICLE kit. The kit is made to pick the new GM 10-Cut ignition locks. The kit works on the cars and trucks. Once you pick the (Continued on page 40) AUTUMN The GM 10-Cut Service Kit from A-1 Security Mfg. Not shown is the instruction manual.

2 FROM THE PUBLISHER Marc Goldberg I Am A Locksmith National Locksmith Automobile Association Publisher Marc Goldberg Director Tom Seroogy Printed in U.S.A. NLAA, a division of National Publishing Co. Publishers of THE NATIONAL LOCKSMITH 1533 Burgundy Parkway Streamwood, Illinois Phone Fax address: natllock@aol.com Unsolicited manuscripts are accepted, but must include SASE National Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved Autumn 1995 I am a Locksmith. All too often I see you after a traumatic burglary, when you are scared and upset. Many times you call me to improve your security when it is already too late. Your home is a shambles and your property is stolen. Your door locks were old, and the door frame was weak. Entering your house was an easy task for the criminal. But I cannot turn back the clock and prevent your misfortune. When your business is vandalized, I m quickly on the scene. I fix the locks which have been super-glued, or I install a new lock when the old one is broken. When you lose your door key, I come right over to pick the lock. I let you in your business and I make you a new key. I am a Locksmith. Sometimes you call me when your keys are locked in your car. You are frustrated by the inconvenience and expense of having to call me. But when you call, I will be right there with the tools and training to resolve your problem without damaging your car. I m there when you lose all your car keys and you didn t save the code tags. I pull down the steering column to remove the ignition. I read the code numbers on the lock and make you a new key to get you on your way. I am a Locksmith. I am available to cut you a new key when the one you got at the hardware store doesn t work. I ll install a new deadbolt for you when yours fails to work. You bought a cheap import at the home center, but you were angry when you realized no replacement parts were available. I am a Locksmith. But I must also be part psychologist. Often, when you call me, you have had some sort of trouble. Security is not usually on your mind unless you have had a problem. It is not easy to deal with people when they are upset. I have been trained to secure and protect your home, your business, your property... and yes, even your life. I know that many hardware stores sell locks cheaper than I can. I know that in some towns the police will open your locked car at no charge. But I will be there for you when the cheap imported lock breaks. And I will be there for you when the police damage your car with their free service. I am a Locksmith. I take my profession very seriously. In the best of all worlds, you d call me to repair your locks before someone took advantage of them. In my dreams, people realize that a locking door knob is not enough protection for them and their family. I d love you to call me for a deadbolt before someone rips off your doorknob with a pipe wrench. I am a businessman, a diplomat, a psychologist and a Locksmith. I spend my entire career trying to help you keep out the bad guys. Sickness is the enemy of the doctor. And the criminal is the enemy of the Locksmith. I will be there to help you after the break-in. But it will bother me to know that a little security would have prevented your loss. I will be there to help you protect what is yours. I offer products and services to help secure cars, homes, businesses and more. I read trade magazines and belong to associations so I can learn more about how to protect you. My whole profession is sworn to protect and secure the property and safety of the public. Of course you can call me after a loss. But I would rather be there first to help prevent that loss. Criminals offend me. Your security is a sacred trust to me. I am a Locksmith. Reprinted from April 1989, The National Locksmith Autumn

3 DIRECTOR S PAGE Tom Seroogy Well, here we are, completing our first year as the NLAA. And, has it been exciting. In this short time I've already learned more about many of the cars I haven't had opportunity to work on. Another plus has been the dramatic change in auto security this year. While the VATS system was introduced in 1986, 1995/96 is definitely the year of the electronic key. GM introduced their VTD/Passlock system. The trade name for this lock is MRD and it's manufactured by Strattec. Another, even larger move into this security hybrid is Ford's PATS system. The locks for this system are also manufactured by Strattec and include a technology referred to as transponders. (For an indepth review on the PATS operation, see From The On Ramp on page 36.) Needless to say, much of the high security we are seeing (and going to see) entering the US is influenced by our European neighbors. In short, the auto industry is highly regulated there, and the insurance companies basically control the standards by which the vehicles are gauged. Helping us keep an eye on the European winds of change is Steve Gallagher, a noted automotive locksmith from Ireland. Steve keeps us abreast of what's new over seas, and some of what we can expect to show up here. (He also makes some nice sets of high security depth keys that we'll review later for you!) An example is the high end 700, series BMW now entering Canada. At the moment, our friends to the north are now gearing up for the new BMW version of the transponder system. Unlike other transponder systems on the market, the BMW employs a rolling code technology, eliminating any possibility of key duplication. (We'll cover the BMW technology in a later issue! Despite locking the locksmith out of servicing this vehicle, it's still pretty interesting. Besides, it will be interesting to see how BMW services their customers.) Probably the biggest kick for me over the this last year, however, isn't the new information or the new technology, it's all the locksmiths that I've had opportunity to talk to and get to know. Man, you guys are great! From the beginner to the experienced, all of you have shared a lot. And it's your experiences that I share with the other NLAA members who are calling and looking for help or want to share something they've found. Without this type of participation, everyone in the association benefits! I want to encourage all of those NLAA members with computers to get on line. We know that getting technical support during the day is easy, but what about after hours? That's where we can help each other! At this time, any NLAA member that is on line can reach myself, Tom Mazzone, or Michael Hyde after hours. Others can join if they wish, we're here to help each other. My address is: AOL - Sabertec2; Internet - sabertec2@aol.com. Tom Mazzone can be reached at AOL - Sabertec; Internet - sabertec@aol.com. And Michael Hyde can be reached at AOL - Lock PHD; Internet - lockphd@aol.com. Finally, we are looking for a writer with motorcycle experience. Just give me a call at (708) ! 4 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

4 Removing Ford 5-pin ignitions without the aid of a key. By Tom Seroogy L ast issue we spent some time describing the Ford 5- pin ignition, including its removal with a key. To review the removal: Insert a working key and turn the ignition to the ON position. Use a probe to depress the lock retainer and remove the lock. Of course, for the locksmith, most ignition work is done without the aid of a key. So, what can be done? Well, today we ll cover three methods for removing the Ford ignition lock when a key is not available or not working. Two of these three methods involve destroying the lock. In these types of procedures it is also necessary to replace the lock. Therefore, be prepared. Check manufacturer catalogs for the correct replacement lock and bring a few with you. Remember, it s always better to be prepared for the worst. For our particular example, we are working on a 1987 Ford E150 conversion van. For replacement locks, we called All-Lock, who generously sent out three #1408 Ford replacement locks. These locks are already fit with keys, and do not come with a buzzer switch (typical of Ford truck and van application). Before beginning, let me list the three tools and methods we are going to show you, plus a couple of techniques and methods that are acceptable, but not covered in this article. The first method for removal involves the use of Rocker Picks. Rocker picks are specially designed picks that are inserted into the lock and rocked up and down while light turning pressure is applied to the lock. In the second method, we use a template to drill and remove the hardened disk that protects the shearline of the lock. Once the disk is removed, the lock is shimmed, turned to the ON position and removed. Finally, the third method involves using a tool that forcibly extracts the lock from the column. Acceptable methods not discussed include impressioning and the use of tryout keys. Impressioning is typically the method of choice among seasoned locksmiths. With some practice, these locks are quickly and easily impressioned, creating a working key without the need for removing or replacing the lock. Tryout keys are also a viable option, although more tedious, time consuming, and having less overall success. 1. Rocker picks are specially designed for quick easy picking. National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

5 2. Lubricate the lock and insert the pick. Rocker Picks Now, let s begin with our first lock removal. In this method we are using the rocker picks designed by Lock Technologies of Naperville, Illinois. Many companies make rocker picks designed for various locks. As always, it is best to check with several locksmiths and automotive lock distributors before choosing your set. (See photograph 1.) Before using, lubricate the lock with a silicone spray. Once lubed, insert the pick, noting which side is being used. (See 3. Gently rock the pick. 4. Once the lock is picked, it can be removed and replaced, or disassembled and a key made for it. 5. Use a large screw driver to pry the facecap off. 6. Then remove the detent pins. 6 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

6 photograph 2.) Remember that the tumblers in this lock are on the bottom. Then, with slight turning pressure on the ears of the lock, rock the pick up and down in slow easy motions. If after a few repetitions, the lock is not picked, rapidly vibrate the pick. Again, if this fails, gently rake the tumblers. (See photograph 3.) If that edge of the pick fails, flip it over and try the other side using the same procedures. Then use the pick edges on the other end of the pick. Carefully move through each pick, making sure that no side is missed until the lock is picked. (See photograph 4.) The advantage to this method is obvious - the lock is removed without damage. It can be replaced, and keys made to it later when time is available. Facecap And Detent Pin Removal In the next two methods it is necessary to first remove the facecap or wings and the brass detent pins. To remove the facecap, use a large flat blade screw driver and simply pry the cap off. (See photograph 5) With the facecap removed, the two brass detent pins are visible and are easily removed. (See photograph 6.) Disc Out By Aable Tool The first tool we re going to show you is Aable Locksmiths Disc Out. (See photograph 7.) This method involves using a template and drill to remove the hardened disk that blocks the lock s shearline and then shim the lock from the front. To use, remove the facecap and detent pins as described 7. Aable Locksmiths Disc Out. 8. Align the template and start drilling. 9. With the drilling done, the disk can now be pried from the lock. National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

7 above and then place the template over the face of the lock. Two pins on the template are inserted into the holes of the now removed detent pins. Make sure that the template hole aligns with the bottom or 6 o clock position of the lock. With the template in place, use the hole saw, provided, to remove the soft metal surrounding the hardened disk in the lock. Start out slowly as the teeth on the hole saw can become snagged on a portion of the lock and break the teeth off the saw. The hole saw is designed with a stop to prevent drilling too deep and damaging both the lock and the hole saw. (See photograph 8.) When the saw has bottomed out and stopped cutting, remove the template. Use a large flat blade screw driver and pry the hardened disk out of the lock. (See photograph 9.) Be careful not to damage the edge of the column in the process. With the disk removed, the shearline is visible. (See photograph 10.) At this point, the shearline can either be drilled, or shimmed using a shim provided with the Disc Out kit. If using the shim, gently insert the shim at the shearline and use a pick to maneuver the tumblers to the shearline. Be careful not to bend or damage the shim. (See photograph 11.) Once shimmed, use a screw driver to turn the plug. (See photograph 12.) Then depress the lock retainer and remove the cylinder from the column. (See photograph 13.) SHEARLINE 10. The shearline is visible with the disk removed. 11. Shimming the lock. 12. Turning the shimmed plug. 13. Removing the lock cylinder. 8 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

8 14. Lock Technologies Ford extractor set up. 15. Fasten the faceplate disk to the lock. Lock Extractor This next technique should only be used as a last resort. While effective, it uses forcible extraction, a method where nothing is guaranteed. The tool we used for this procedure is part of the LT350A Lock Destructer kit manufactured by Lock Technologies. Through the use of various adapters, the extractor can be modified for pulling one of several types of ignitions, including domestic and import. (See photograph 14.) To use, first remove the facecap and detent pins as described above. Then fasten the small faceplate disk to the front of the lock by inserting two sheet metal screws through the disk and driving them into the holes left by the lock s detent pins. (See photograph 15.) Make sure that the screws are threaded in equal distant to one another, and that the disk is perfectly parallel to the face of the lock. If this piece is not parallel, the center pulling shaft may snap as a result of unequal pulling pressure. 16. Attach the pulling assembly to the disk. 17. Slowly and gently extract the lock. National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

9 Next, fasten the center pulling shaft and extractor tube to the disk. A small threaded shaft is used to attach the pulling shaft to the disk. Do not over thread this piece or it may break off during the extraction process. Instead, lightly thread the shaft into place until it just touches the face of the lock; then back off one whole turn. (See photograph 16.) Once the unit is assembled, hold the center pulling shaft so that it does not turn using the Allen wrench provided. Then use an open end wrench to start tightening the extraction nut. Use slow, even movements while applying pressure to this nut. Fast, jerky movements increase your chance of breaking the center pulling shaft. (See photograph 17.) Apply pressure by turning the nut until the lock breaks free from the column. In our case, the lock retaining pin simply broke out the back of the lock and the tailpiece stayed in tact. (See photograph 18.) This is because a secondary retaining plate had been previously removed. This plate holds the sector gear in the column. The tailpiece of the lock must be turned to the ON position in 18. Without the sector retaining plate, this lock was easily extracted. order to pass a hole in the plate and engage the sector gear. When not in the ON position, this plate as well as the retaining pin, hold the ignition in the column. In many instances, where the plate is present, the back of the tailpiece breaks off and remains in the column. It must later be removed using a needle nose pliers or similar tool. Once the lock has been removed, simply replace. Always check all ignition lock operations before turning the keys over to the customer. Thanks again to All-Lock for the #1408 Ford locks. For more information on All-Lock's line of automotive locks, contact an All- Lock distributor, or call All-Lock at (334) For more information on Aable Locksmiths' Disc Out call Aable at (718) For more information on Lock Technologies' LT350A extraction kit contact Lock Technologies at (708) Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

10 Standard Auto Service 1993 Subaru Impreza By Michael Hyde T his issue of the NLAA we take a look at the Impreza by Subaru. This model is a wagon, if you can call it that, or maybe a sub-compact wagon. As with most Subaru's, this model shares the Nissan keyways and tumblers, but not the ignition locks. The keying kit for this car is ASP A (See photograph 1.) Opening For this model we used an inverted slide linkage tool to grasp the linkage and pull up on the linkage rod. (See photograph 2.) Ignition Lock Servicing this ignition is actually pretty easy compared with other similar Nissan/Subaru ignition servicing. This model utilizes the active retainer to make life easier for me and you. First you must remove the four Phillips head screws that hold the plastic clam-shell cowl in place. Next gently unsnap the cowl 1. Front and rear view of the 1993 Subaru Impreza. 2. Use and inverted slide lock tool to grasp the lock rod and unlock the vehicle. National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

11 and push aside. (See photograph 3.) Remove the black plastic ring from around the ignition cylinder housing. Insert the working key and turn to the first accessory position. Depress the retainer and slide out the 3. The shroud is a two-piece clamshell type. Four screws found at the bottom must be removed before removal. RETAINER cylinder. (See photograph 4.) To service the ignition cylinder you need to remove a tension roll pin that blocks the ignition facecap from turning. I used a small pair of vise grips to grasp onto the pin and gingerly work it out. Once the pin is out you can rotate the i g n i t i o n c y l i n d e r facecap and remove it. (See photograph 5.) When you remove the facecap you will need to be careful not to lose the small ball bearing and spring located on the 4. After separating the column, turn the key to ACC and depress the retainer. top side of the cylinder. There is also a key buzzer arm with spring located on the bottom side of the housing. (See photograph 6.) Once the cylinder facecap has been removed and the other small parts secured then you can slide the cylinder plug out of the cylinder housing. Keep aware of the interlock arm and the two other small detents. The ignition cylinder contain all eight tumblers. (See photograph 7.) Door Lock The door lock cylinder is integrated into the door handle, sorta. (See photograph 8.) To remove the door lock cylinder you must remove the inside door panel. (See photograph 9.) First remove the hidden screw that is located in the door pull cavity. (See photograph 10.) Pop off the plastic trim clip on the centerforward section of the panel. (See photograph 11.) Next use a screwdriver to gently pop off the handle release trim piece. (See photograph 12.) Next pull outward on the bottom section of the panel to 5. In order to remove the facecap from this lock, a small roll pin must be removed, allowing the facecap to rotate. 12 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

12 6. Rotating the facecap releases a ball and spring from the top of the cylinder and a buzzer arm and spring from the bottom. 7.The facecap removed, slowly slide the plug from the front of the cylinder. Be careful not to lose the various components. 8. The door lock is part of the handle. 9. The Impreza door panel must be removed to take out the door lock. National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

13 unsnap the push-in style plastic clips, and remove the panel. You must remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the outside handle assembly in place. (See photograph 13.) Slide the handle to the side to get to the cylinder. (See photograph 14.) The door lock cylinder does not sit in the handle but actually is held to the outside door panel by a horseshoe style retaining clip. (See photograph 15.) Remove the retaining clip and disconnect the linkage rod to 10. A hidden screw is found in the handle pull area. 11. A clip found at the front of the panel must be removed. 12. A screw driver is used to pop off the interior handle release trim. 13. Two 10mm bolts must be removed from the handle before it s removal. 14. Slide the handle to the side to remove. 15. Despite initial appearances the door lock is actually held to the door. 14 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

14 remove the lock cylinder. (See photograph 16.) The lock cylinder housing has a large drain hole area so it is possible to read the tumblers through that area. (See photograph 17.) The door cylinder contains all eight tumblers. You must remove the facecap to disassemble the cylinder. (See photograph 18.) The replacement cap part number is ASP P Rear Hatch Lock The rear hatch lock cylinder is similar to the door cylinder in many aspects. (See photograph 19.) To remove the cylinder it is necessary to remove the inside trim panel. The panel is held in place by five exterior clips and several interior push-in style clips. Remove the exterior clips first and then gently pull outward on the panel to unfasten it. (See photograph 20.) Once the panel is removed it is easy to reach in the hatch panel cavity and remove the horseshoe clip that retains the lock cylinder in place. (See photograph 21.) The lock contains all eight tumblers. A replacement facecap is ASP P (See photograph 22.) 16. A standard horseshoe style clip holds the lock to the door. 17. The tumblers can be read from the drain hole at the bottom of the lock. 18. To service, the facecap must be removed and replaced. 19. The rear hatch lock. 20. The hatch panel must be removed for lock removal. National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

15 21. With the panel gone, a horseshoe clip is removed to take the lock out. 22. The disassembled hatch lock. 23. Held in place by two Phillips head screws, the glove box lock is easily removed. Glove Box Lock The glove box lock assembly is held in the glove box door by two Phillips head screws. Remove the screws and remove the lock assembly. (See photograph 23.) To remove the cylinder plug it will be necessary to unsnap the plastic trim piece that encircles it. (See photograph 24.) Depress the plug retainer and slide out the plug. (See photograph 25.) The plug contains tumblers in positions 5 through 8. First Key Generation Method 1.). Check owners manual for code, written in by the dealer. Method 2.). Disassemble door cylinder or rear hatch cylinder and decode wafers to make master key. Average Time minutes. Specifications Code Series: Y & X Key Blank: Ilco X123/DA25, X210/DA31 Silca DAT12, NSN11 HPC Card: CF67 MACS: 2 Cut to Cut:.083 Shoulder to center of first cut:.118 Depths: , , @?he?3@ 24. Remove the plastic facecap from the lock. 25. Depress the plug retainer and slide it out the front. 16 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

16 High Security Auto Service Part 2 of our Mercedes overview, the 4-Track door locks. By Michael Hyde T his issue of the NLAA we continue with our overview series on Mercedes-Benz locking systems. This time we take a close look at the 4-Track door locks. The door locks are important when generating a first key to the car, so it is important to know what the door locks are all about. (See photograph 1.) Four-Track door locks were used on the following chassis: Chassis/ Body # Model SL E, 300CE, 300D, 300E, 300TD, 300TE SD, 300SDL, 300SE, 300SEL, 380SE, 380SEC, 380SEL, 420SEL, 500SEC, 500SEL, 560SEL, 560SEC 129 SL 300, SL 500 (1990 +) , 600, (1990 +) NOTE: There are many variations to Mercedes cars. Mercedes made for the North- American market are more predictable than cars made for others markets. Mercedes made for other markets have been given the slang name "GRAY- MARKET" or "EUROPEAN 1. Central to Mercedes key generation are the door locks. Displayed here are some of the 4-track door locks and handles used on today's Mercedes. 2. Left to right, master key with alarm, master key, valet key, wallet valet key. MODEL CARS." Before doing work on a Mercedes, it is best to determine the chassis number. This makes it easier to determine which locking system the car should be equipped with. This is done National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

17 3. Known for its high security keying system, both whole and split wafer tumblers are found in the door lock. 4. Mercedes four-track door lock tailpieces. Although the differences may be slight, they are important to know. 5. The Mercedes tailpiece assembly. 6. The key trap ward found on the front of the plug keeps the plug from being removed from the shell without a working key. by checking the first set of digits in the car's VIN number. The very first digits in the VIN should always be "WDB" this translates to "World-Damir- Benz." Also, we cannot guarantee that every appli-cation listed will always be the correct one. This situation is caused because of inconsistencies in the original equipment production line. We start out by showing you what some factory original Mercedes four-track keys look like. (See photograph 2.) The key furthest left is a master key and includes a red dot, indicating that the car is equipped with a factory alarm. The red dot is only cosmetic, it does not transmit anything or have any electronics in it. The key to the right of this key is also a master key. You can tell they are master keys by the squarish shape to the bow and the groove going up the center of blade of the key. The two keys to the right of the master keys are valet keys. You can tell this by the lack of a groove on the blade of the key and the roundish bow, except for the wallet valet key pictured furthest right. Next is an example of Mercedes four-track tumblers. Some solids and some split tumblers are used in the door locks. (See photograph 3.) The tailpiece of the Mercedes door lock interlocks with the locking/latching mechanism. And, although similar in appearance and identical in function, a variety of different tailpieces exist. (See photograph 4.) Held to the plug by a roll pin, the tailpiece assembly includes the tailpiece, a tailpiece/spring connector, return spring and a rubber bumper. (See photograph 5.) At the other end of the plug we find the key trap ward. (See photograph 6.) This ward locks the plug into the shell until the key is inserted and the plug turned. On the alarm models, a microswitch is attached to the outside of the shell and activated by the turning plug. (See photograph 7.) The center of this piece includes a very small toggle switch that 18 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

18 7. Alarmed models include this micro-switch attached to the shell of the door lock. 8. Door lock and handle for Mercedes 126 chassis. 107 PULL- FINGER ROLL PIN SET SCREW 126 PULL- FINGER 9. Slight variations exist from one chassis handle to the next. On the left is a handle from a 107 chassis. Notice the offset pull finger. On the right is the lock from a 126 chassis, using a central pull finger. 10. A roll pin and set screw must be removed to disassemble this lock and handle. is very delicate. 107/126 CHASSIS (except Aerodyne) The first door lock we start with is the chassis 126. (See photograph 8.) It is almost identical to the 107 chassis door lock except for the handle pull finger. (See photograph 9.) The one on the left is a 107 chassis with an offset pull finger. The photo on the right is the 126 chassis lock with a center pull finger. Both chassis may or may not have a factory alarm switch built into the lock cylinder. To remove the cylinder from the handle assembly you must remove the roll pins and/or set screw. The first two years of North-American models used a roll pin that went all the way through the lock and handle on one side. On the other side is a ROLL PINS 11. A more common type handle includes two roll pins, one of which a blind roll pin. National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

19 PULL FINGER ADJUSTMENT SCREW 12. With roll pins removed, the lock can be pulled away from the handle. 13. At times it is necessary to loosen the pull finger adjustment screw before the lock can be removed. Make sure to keep count of the total number of turns while loosening! REMOVED ROLL PIN 14. To remove the tailpiece, use a punch to remove the roll pin holding it to the plug. 15. Carefully remove the plug and its contents. 16. A couple of sleeves surround the plug as it is removed. If a brass plug is present in the second sleeve, the valet key operates the alarm switch. set screw. Push the roll pin out the other side with a pin punch. Take out the set screw. (See photograph 10.) BRASS PLUG The more common door lock/handle assembly has a roll pin that goes all the way through the lock and handle on one side. On the other side is commonly referred to as a "blind" roll pin, since it does not come out the other side. (See photograph 11.) Remove the first roll pin by using a pin punch to slide it out. To remove the other pin you must either drill next to the blind pin and pry out, or use a drill with a small bit that will grip the inside of the pin to spin it out. Another method is to use the tip of a round file to try and extract the pin. The file tip may break off in the pin if your not careful enough. Once the pins are removed 20 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

20 17. The Aerodyne handle assembly found on the mid SEC and 560SEC costs roughly $500. you can slide the lock cylinder away from the handle assembly. (See photograph 12.) It may be necessary to loosen the pull finger assembly to allow enough room for the lock cylinder to slide past it. You should count how many times you loosen the screw, in order to restore the screw to its original position for reinstallation into the car door cavity. (See photograph 13.) The lock cylinder shown here is an alarm model. On the end of the cylinder housing is an alarm contact switch that is activated when the cylinder plug is rotated. To disassemble the lock you must first remove the tailpiece. Slide the roll pin out with a pin punch. (See photograph 14.) Next separate the plug and its components from the housing. (See photograph 15.) Be very careful of how all the parts are positioned as you take the plug out. This model has the later alarm sleeves in it. The earlier models have ball bearings and springs, we will get to that later. Be sure to mark all the pieces as you disassemble. The second alarm sleeve has a brass plug in NON-ALARMED it. Take note of that. In models with the brass plug, the valet key operates the alarm switch. (See photograph 16.) The plug contains one solid tumbler, three sets of splits tumblers (the six-pack) and four solid tumblers. 126 CHASSIS - AERODYNE The next door lock/handle assembly we take a look at is called the "Aerodyne." It is usually only found on the 500SEC and 560SEC, mid- 1980's. The lock handle gets its ALARMED 18. The handles come in both alarmed and non-alarmed versions. The lock removal is identical to the 126 chassis. name from its unique shape. Be extra careful working on these plastic handles as their estimated replacement cost is $500. (See photograph 17.) The lock/handle assemblies come in both alarm or nonalarm versions, and the lock cylinders are held to the handle assembly just like the other 126 chassis locks. (See photograph 18.) The same procedures should be followed when removing the cylinders from the handles. (See photograph 19.) It also may be necessary to loosen the handle finger pull to National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

21 ROLL PIN SET SCREW ROLL PIN ROLL PIN 19. Like the 126 chassis the Aerodyne handle requires that either a roll pin and a set screw, or two roll pins be removed for separating the lock from the handle. PULL FINGER ADJUSTMENT SCREW ROLL PIN 20. Don't forget to count the number of turns when loosening the pull finger adjustment screw. 21. Remove the roll pin that holds the tailpiece to the plug. SLEEVE #2 SLEEVE #1 22. Gently remove the plug and its components. For the purpose of this article, we will number the alarm sleeves. slide the cylinder away from the handle assembly. You should count how many times you loosen the screw, in order to restore the screw to its original position for re-installation into the car door cavity. (See photograph 20.) The cylinder we are going to take a look at is an alarm model. These can be the most tricky. Once the cylinder is removed from the handle, you need to remove the tailpiece by sliding out the roll pin that holds it in 22 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

22 SLEEVE #1 BALL BEARINGS SLEEVE #1 BALL BEARING SLEEVE #2 BALL BEARING 23. The sleeves on this unit include ball bearings. Sleeve one contains two spring loaded ball bearings, sleeve two contains one large ball bearing. 24. The plug with both split and whole tumblers. 25. The entire disassembled plug assembly. place, with a pin punch. (See photograph 21.) Now gently slide out the cylinder plug and its alarm components. Two sleeves will be found on this plug. For the purposes of this article we will call the alarm sleeve closest to the cylinder plug dust shutter assembly alarm sleeve one and the other alarm sleeve we will call alarm sleeve two. (See photograph 22.) Alarm sleeve one has two springs and two ball bearings. Alarm sleeve two has a single, and somewhat larger, ball bearing with no spring. (See photograph 23.) Before Mercedes saw the light, they used this configuration so the valet key would not operate the alarm when used in the door lock. Their reasoning did not make sense. If you had let the "valet" park your car wouldn't you think it be important to make sure your car is protected by the alarm? The cylinder plug contains one solid, three split and four solid tumblers. (See photograph 24.) The disassembled cylinder with alarm components is pictured with cylinder plug, alarm sleeve one and two, ball bearings and associated springs, cylinder plug alarm activator and the associated spring. (See photograph 25.) 124 CHASSIS The 124 chassis locks are of the newer and more modular design. They have separated the actual handle assembly away from the lock cylinder. When it's in the car, the lock sits right up against the handle, giving it a one piece appearance. (See photograph 26.) To disassemble the cylinder, you must first separate the rear National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

23 26. The newer version Mercedes locks are modular in design and separate from the handle. This version is from an alarmed 124 chassis. 27. Drill and pry to remove the roll pins holding this lock together. Do not drill too deep. 28. Carefully separating this lock, you notice that alarm sleeve one is now incorporated into the front cylinder housing. BALL BEARINGS AND SPRINGS 29. To turn the plug for removal, insert a precut key attach to a vise. Use a tool to shim the tumblers to the shearline and turn the lock. 30. The front cylinder housing contains the two ball bearings and springs found in alarm sleeve one. 24 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

24 31. The plug contains both split and whole tumblers. 32. The components of the 124 chassis alarmed door lock. section of the lock housing from the front section. To do this you must remove the two blind tension roll-pins. One pin located on each side of the forward section of the lock housing. You can drill next to the pin and then pry it out or try to use an extractor to remove the pin. If you drill next to the pin be sure not to drill too deep. (See photograph 27.) Next remove the tension rollpin that holds the tailpiece on. Once you have removed the retaining pins you can now separate the cylinder housings. Take special attention of the pieces as you do the separation. On this model, alarm sleeve one is now integrated into the front cylinder housing. (See photograph 28.) To remove the cylinder plug from the housing, without a working key, you must rotate the cylinder plug, for removal from the housing, because of a ward built into those components. Insert a key cut to all number five depths into the lock. I put the prepped key head in a vise to hold the key and cylinder. Then, from the back of the lock, I use a tension tool to 33. The 124 chassis non-alarm door lock cylinder. Notice that there is no opening for shimming the tumblers from the back of the lock. bring the remaining tumblers to the shear-line, while maintaining gentle turning pressure on the housing. (See photograph 29.) Even though alarm sleeve one is integrated into the housing, you still must be mindful of the two small ball bearings and National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

25 their associated springs. (See photograph 30.) The cylinder plug contains one solid, three split and four solid tumblers. (See photograph 31.) The disassembled cylinder with alarm components is pictured with cylinder plug, alarm sleeve two, ball bearings and associated springs, cylinder plug alarm activator and the associated spring. (See photograph 32.) In the non-alarm model door cylinder, if you did not have a working key to rotate the cylinder plug past the ward, you cannot remove the plug. (See photograph 33.) Unlike the alarm version, you cannot use a tool to shim this lock from the back. The only option for disassembling this cylinder is to mill or drill a channel in the tumbler ward on each side of the cylinder housing. Then you can push the tumblers to the shear-line, to rotate the plug. If you have a working key, remove the tension roll-pin in the tailpiece and then insert the key and rotate the plug past the ward and pull the plug out. The plug contains three solid and three split tumblers. (See photograph 34.) The lock cylinder disassembled is pictured. It consists of the cylinder housing, cylinder plug, tailpiece, tailpiece roll-pin and tailpiece rubber bumper. The rubber bumper sits inside the tailpiece housing. (See photograph 35.) Nest issue we continue our coverage of the Mercedes 4-Track door locks, looking at the 129 and 140 chassis versions. 34. Removing the lock using a key. Like the other door locks, the plug contains both split and whole wafers. 35. The disassembled 124 chassis, non-alarm door lock. 26 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

26 Common GM Column Problems By Tom Mazzone M y key is stuck, and my lock won't turn! What do you think it is?" Sound like a familiar phone call? Doctors aren't the only professionals that the public expects ready and true diagnosing via the phone. Most services and trades, including locksmiths are expected to give answers on demand - and then attach a price for fixing them, site unseen. This issue, Tom Mazzone covers just such a problem - the GM ignition that won't turn. "The key won't turn," or, "the key turns and nothing happens" are problems common to GM ignitions and often heard by the locksmith. Yet, due to the integration of many systems and components, the fact that a GM ignition key does not turn or the car does not start is not necessarily caused by a faulty lock. (See photograph 1.) In fact, of the six conditions common to domestic GM columns and locks, only two are related to an ignition lock problem. The other four problems are mechanical failures of other column components, and are not readily repaired by the locksmith. This issue I list and briefly discuss each of these problems POPPED RETAINER 1. The popped retainer is a common problem of GM ignition locks. Unfortunately, just because the key doesn't turn doesn't mean it's a lock failure. At least six service problems affect the operation of the lock and key, only two related to the lock. and how they affect the lock. In future issues, I will cover each problem in greater detail, giving the locksmith a more thorough insight into the problems and ways to diagnose them. It should be remembered that this information is not designed to show the locksmith how to properly service these varying problems. It is given to aid him in the diagnosis of a problem that often masquerades as a lock problem. Following are the problems: Broken Rack Binding Lock Bolt Spring Shift Cable Bind Ignition Switch Adjustment Popped Retainer Missing Sector Gear Column Components Saginaw introduced the incolumn ignition in Up to this time, the ignition lock and ignition switch were an integrated unit mounted in the instrument panel. When the lock was moved to the column, however, the lock and switch National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

27 START/ON position. SECTAR GEAR STEERING WHEEL LOCK BOLT SWITCH ROD RACK LOCK BOLT SPRING 2. There are several components that effect the movement of the ignition switch and the starting of the vehicle. Above is the operation of the typical GM rack assembly. If any one of these components fail, the car will not start. were separated. This necessitated, of course, the addition of several components or a linkage system to coordinate the turning of the lock and the activation of the switch. These components include the switch rod, rack, sector gear and lock bolt spring. Now, instead of one integrated lock/switch, there are actually three separate systems at work - the lock, the switch, and the linkage that connects the two. Let's look at how these parts work together. Starting at the top of the column, we find the ignition lock cylinder. Directly behind the lock is the sector gear. The lock is connected to the sector gear via tailpiece or shaft. Engaging the sector gear is the rack, and at the back of the rack is the switch rod. The switch rod travels from the back of the rack to the ignition switch found over or to the side of the column shaft, or mast jacket, under the instrument panel. Turning the ignition lock turns the sector gear. The sector gear slides the rack forward or backward depending on column style. As the rack moves, the rod pulls or pushes to activate the ignition switch under the instrument panel. Also included as part of the rack and sector gear is a lock bolt spring. While not part of the starting system, this spring, along with the sector gear, controls the position of the steering wheel lock bolt. (See illustration 2.) Thus far we have established three separate systems - the lock, the switch, and the linkage - and described their joint operation. It's natural to assume that the six service problems listed above affect one of these systems. Linkage System Broken Rack - Common with the Saginaw Round Tilt Columns, with reported instances on the Square Column. Once broken, the switch rod cannot be activated by the turning of the lock and sector gear. The key and lock freely turn but do not activate the ignition switch. Binding Lock Bolt Spring - The lock bolt spring becomes entangled with and meshes with the sector gear and rack, preventing free rack and sector gear movement. Turning the lock is difficult and spongy. Ignition Switch Shift Cable Bind - Incorporated into the ignition switch is a key/shifter interlock 28 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

28 mechanism. This mechanism is activated by a cable attached to the shift lever. The incorrect position of the cable's white collar causes this mechanism to fail, holding the lock in the ON position and preventing it from being turned to OFF. Two conditions can cause this failure - a mis-adjusted shifter cable, or the white collar sticks inside the mechanism housing. This failure is most common among floor shift models. Ignition Switch Adjustment - Although rarely occurring, a mis-adjusted ignition switch may prevent the vehicle from starting. The switch is fastened to the mast jacket via two bolts. Should the bolts become loose, allowing the switch to slide forward or backward, the switch and the lock can become desynchronized. Lock Popped Retainer - Probably the most common of the failures, the popped retainer occurs when the tumbler retainer becomes loose and drops into the sidebar broaching of the lock as it is being turned. In most instances, the lock is stuck in the ON position and cannot be turned in either direction. Missing Sector Gear - This occurs in the Saginaw Square Column vehicles only. The sector gears on these models are part of the ignition lock, staked to back of the plug. In some cases, the staking fails and the sector gear falls off the lock and into the column. This results in free rotation of the plug. Conclusion The problems listed above are the most common faced by the locksmith, although others exist. Only two, the popped retainer and missing sector gear, should be serviced by the locksmith, and the rest left for a qualified mechanic or one trained in column repair. In coming issues I will take you through each of these conditions or problems. Thoroughly understanding the nature of these service problems will help you diagnose problems before you spend time and effort on repairs you cannot make. See page 136 of the November 1995 The National Locksmith for information on our new "Steering Column Service" course by Tom Mazzone and Tom Seroogy. Over 250 pages of in-depth, step-bystep procedures for servicing domestic GM columns. Includes Standard Round and Tilt, Tilt/Telescopic, Tilt/non-Tilt Square Columns, MATS, VATS, AlphaTec, Airbag, 94 and 95 Modular 10-Cut Systems; plus Tools, Dangers, and Hornpad and Steering Wheel removal. National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

29 Price, expediency and relationships. The three weapons needed to hunt down and bag yourself a dealer. By Tom Seroogy "...the other two pieces of weaponry - expedience and relationships!" For those that received the Summer 95 issue of the Automotive Edge, that was the finishing line of the Dealing With Dealers column. Sorry for the error. For new members who have not received that issue, we're learning about the three weapons necessary for hunting dealer work. The first weapon, discussed in full, last issue, is price. To summarize, dealer work is deal oriented. Dealers place a great deal of weight on the price they pay for services - especially when they are looking for them. On the other hand, locksmiths need to charge appropriately, making sure to include those "freebies" when creating a price structure. Also, despite opinions to the contraire, I firmly believe that, on a per job basis, an experienced locksmith should be charging less not more than an inexperienced locksmith. With that said, let's look at the other two weapons - expedience and relationship. Expedience or expediency is just that! When a dealer requires your services, they typically want them now! "A customer is waiting. "The car is sold. "It's being delivered. "It's going to auction." All are infamous echoes of dealer service calls. Time is another part of expediency. Dealers apparently don't have watches or can't tell time, because they always want you at the worst possible time. But face it locksmith, if we choose dealer work, we must be ready NOW, all the TIME. One dealer I serviced is notorious for 4 p.m. service calls, just as I'm trying to wrap up my work day. And, as always, they need it done now. Now, I know that these cars have had keys missing or lock problems for weeks. Still, in typical dealer anarchy, they wait until the night before delivery to make that call. When I confront them with the situation, their position was clear: If I didn't want their work, they'd use someone else. So, what do you do, locksmith? This account brings in a steady income of nearly $800 a month. Do you throw them away for an early dinner? That you'll have to decide, but it is a very real part of this type of service. So far, I've only touched on the negative approach to expediency. Now, let's look at a more positive, proactive approach. Having worked with most of my dealers for many years, you get to know their routine. You know what time of the month cars are dropped off and others are shipped to auctions. So, I use this information to not only make some more money, but to create good will with my customer. I make it a habit of calling the dealer the day and night before auctions and special events, when a large number of cars are going to be moved or shipped. I ask if they have anything on hold waiting for lock service. Not only does this create an (See page 32) 30 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

30 Before answering any questions, I just want to list the part numbers for the new GM VTD/Passlock ignition. Manufactured by Strattec, the trade name for this lock is the MRD or Magnetic Rotating Device ignition. Part number for the J Body, which includes the Cavalier and Pontiac Sunfire, is # The part number for the N Body, which includes the Achieva, Sky Lark and Grand Am, is # This lock is available through authorized Strattec distributors. QUESTION: Dear Tom: I'm sure there has to be an easier way to handle the following problem than I have found. This is on 10-cut Fords where the tumbler retaining cap pops up and prevents the cylinder from turning in order to depress the lock retainer button and replace the lock. How do you removed the defective cylinder? I currently break off the facecap and spend 30 to 45 minutes drilling a channel that allows me to remove the tumbler retaining cap. I recently purchased a SureShot bypass tool, designed to shear the sidebar. I figure if it can apply enough pressure to break a sidebar, it surely should be able to turn a cylinder with a defective cap. What do you think? Melanie Long NLAA #0094 ANSWER: Melanie: I won't say the description of the problem you're having isn't accurate; however, after examining just about every type of Ford 10-Cut ignition lock made (furnished by All-Lock), it just doesn't seem probable. In order for this problem to occur, the tumbler cap or retainer needs to fall into and become trapped by a broaching within the shell as it is being turned. In the locks that I studied, this is not possible until the lock has already turned past the point where the retainer can be depressed. In other words, if a loose cap is the problem, the ignition can only be caught in the ON or START position. At this point, the lock needs to be turned towards the OFF position in order to depress the lock retainer and remove the lock. So, what are some of the possibilities for your problem? More than likely one or more of the tumbler springs have popped off their tumblers. This is quite common in the 84-1/2 version of the Ford 10-Cut ignition lock. Without the spring, there is no downward pressure on the tumbler as the key is inserted into the lock. The pressure from the sidebar holds the tumbler up, out of position, keeping the sidebar from falling into place, and the lock from turning. Solving this problem can be accomplished one of two ways: One, after the key is inserted, rap on the head of the key while applying on-again-off-again turning presser on the lock. This may vibrate the loose tumblers into position. Or, two, use a very small hook pick to remove all the springs, and then gently rap on the face of the lock while applying the onagain-off-again pressure. The pressure from the sidebar should maneuver the tumblers into position for the sidebar to drop in. Turn, depress the retainer and replace the lock. Other methods include the SureShot (by Aable Locksmiths at (718) ) or drilling for the sidebar (watch out for the hardened disc). QUESTION: One commonly asked question and its answer: I pulled the passenger door handle off of a Volkswagen and got the code, but I can't find them anywhere in the code books. Can you help? ANSWER: In almost all instances, the code for any model Volkswagen can be found on either the passenger door handle or on the ignition in the form of a four digit number. These numbers appear in the range of 0001 to 9282, and have been used by VW and sister companies Audi and Porsche from about Problems occur, however, in that the code from the door handle often does not include the two letter prefix that is assigned to the number code. Without this prefix, an unsuspecting locksmith, unless he does some research, is left at wits end to find the proper key and the bitting. The letter prefix is important for two reasons: First, without the prefix, or knowing that a prefix is needed, your code cannot be located. Second, the letter prefix indicates what blank that particular model is supposed to use. Don't National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

31 assume because it's a VW that it uses the X9 blank. In many models the X9 serves as the valet key, while X203 (X139) serves as the master. Following is a list of the letter prefixes and their corresponding blanks. Remember that the actual code includes the prefix plus a number from 0001 to Prefix Blank VB X9 NV X9 HV X88 N X110 AH X139, X203 AN X9 When looking up codes for a VW, Audi or Porsche, remember that all of these codes come from the same code or bitting list. In other words, except for the prefix, the codes and bittings for this series code is identical. The prefix determines the proper key blank only. For example, a 1992 Fox with code HV7692 and a 1976 Rabbit with code VB7692 have identical cuts, but different blanks. QUESTION: Dear Tom: I had a customer who needed a duplicate key for a 1962 Mercedes and found that I could not find the proper key. What key blank does it use? Gene Smith NLAA #0692 ANSWER: Gene: Thanks to your drawing of the key, I think I've found what you're looking for, although I can see why you had difficulty finding it. Apparently Borkey is the only aftermarket manufacturer of this blank. It uses the Borkey This same key may fit many of the Mercedes trucks here in the States as well. Dealing With Dealers (From page 30) image of concern on my part, it also allows me the chance to schedule my next day - before they call me! The final weapon is relationships. This is very important. Building good relationships with the right people is like free advertising in the auto business. The dealer world is very transient. Salesmen and managers almost seem to have no home - an almost nomadic lifestyle. The advantage for the locksmith is obvious - a manager your doing work for at Toyota today, may call you to Honda tomorrow. In fact, of the 33+ dealers that I have served over the last 10 years, approximately 2/3 of them were from managers moving from one store to the next. Now, there's more to these weapons than just knowing or having them. To be effective they need to be employed not only in the correct amounts but at the correct times. These weapons - price, expedience and relationships - are actually part of a process where all three are interdependent, with each having a varying degree of importance, based on what part of the process you're at. For instance, when you first solicit a customer, relationship and expediency are the weakest of the two weapons. Price, at this point, may be the best weapon. As you begin to work with this dealer, however, you need to prove that your company is dependable. Therefore, while pricing is still important, expediency may take a front seat. Relationships at this time are just beginning to grow, and still takes the back seat. Finally, as time rolls on, your expediency and fairness in pricing have proven your company a good ally in the dealer's eyes. The importance of the relationship now moves to the foreground; expediency and pricing take back seats. This is an especially important transition. Because the dealer feels comfortable with your service, and trusts your work and your ethics, the expediency and pricing factors become less of an issue. At this time the dealer is more willing to discuss price and price changes; They are more willing to wait until the next day for you to service a vehicle. In essence, you have developed a good business ally. 32 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

32 Key generation without codes or lock disassembly can be accomplished using the EEZ Reader by H.E. Mitchell Co. By Michael Hyde I magine generating a first key for a vehicle without having a code or disassembling a lock. Sounds like something only the Great Creskin can do? Well, Michael Hyde reviews for us, the EEZ Reader wafer reading tools by the H.E. Mitchell Company. With a little practice, this tool allows the locksmith to accurately determine the key bitting for a lock in a very short period of time, and, in almost all cases, without the need for progressioning or impressioning. The EEZ-Reader is a great little tool. It s one of those tools you wish you invented. By using this tool I have saved myself a lot of work. The different models of this tool has made me more money than any other tool I own, including my key machines. The EEZ-Reader is designed in two parts. One is the key-tool made from a particular key blank. The other is a slide-tool made from a flat spring steel. The key tool is milled to fit with the slide tool. The tip of the key tool has a slot in it to trap each wafer individually. On the side of the blade of the key tool are index marks that indicate the space of the wafer being trapped. On the bow of the key tool a second set of index marks are used in conjunction with slide tool to determine the depth of the trapped wafer. The slot at the tip end is wider than the wafer, and proper space calibration is made from the bow side of the slot. Therefore, when determining which space is being read, inward pressure on the key tool must be applied to hold the SLIDE TOOL KEY TOOL DEPTH INDEX 1. Using the EEZ-Reader to read this Ford wafer lock. wafer snug to that side of the slot. Also, inward pressure helps hold the wafer in place while using the slide tool to determine the depth of that particular wafer. The slide tool is cut with a slope on one end and has an index mark on the other side. The slope is used to raise the wafer up out of the slot of the key-tool, to adjust to another wafer, and to insert and remove the tool from the lock. The slope is also used to gauge the depth SPACE INDEX DEPTH INDICATOR National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

33 and up Chrysler EEZ-Reader. 3. Ford 10- Cut Reader. 4. Reader for the Escort, Tracer, Quest and Villager. 5. Mitsubishi Reader. of the wafer that is trapped. To read the depth of a wafer, the wafer is trapped in the slot of the key-tool and inward pressure is applied. Then the slide tool is slid in with very light pressure until the slope touches the wafer. In this position the index mark on the slide tool aligns with one of the depth marks on the key tool. That is the depth reading of the trapped wafer. To use, put the slide onto the key so the slot is covered and then insert the key and slide all the way into the lock. Ease the slide out to allow the wafer to settle in the slot of the key tool. You may want to move the key tool around a little bit to insure that the wafer is in the slot completely. Once a wafer is trapped, apply and hold moderate inward pressure on the key tool. Hold the slide tool with your fingertips lightly and slide the slide tool in until it just touches the wafer. You will feel a distinct stop, but if you press too hard, you can raise the wafer. Read and record the depth mark on the head of the key tool that aligns with the index mark on the slide tool. Release the 34 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

34 inward pressure on the key tool. Slide the slide tool in and raise the wafer out of the slot in the key tool. Slide the tool outward slightly to trap the next wafer and record its depth. Continue this for all the tumblers in the lock. (See photograph 1.) Following is a list of the available EEZ Reader tools and their application: 1990 and up Chrysler products using the Y154, Y155, Y157 & Y159 keyways. (See photograph 2.) Ford products using the standard 10- cut design, H54, H60 & H67 keyways. (See photograph 3.) Ford Escort, Mercury Tracer, but also works well on the Mercury Villager & Nissan Quest, using the H62, H66, DA32 keyways. (See photograph 4.) Mitsubishi and Chrysler imports using the DC1 & DC3 keyways. (See photograph 5.) Hondas & Acuras using the HD90 & HD92 keyways. (See photograph 6.) The notorious General Motors Alpha- Tec ignitions. Using the B68 & B84 keyways. (See photograph 7.) Saturn product line. (See photograph 8.) In conclusion, this is a wonderful time saving tool. If you re not using an EEZ-Reader now, you are wasting your time and money. For more information on the 6. Honda Reader. 7. Alpha Tec ignition reader. 8. Saturn reader. EEZ Reader, contact H.E. Mithell at 118 SE 8th Ave. Portland, OR 97214,. Phone (503) , fax (503) National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

35 F ROM T HE O N R AMP PATS Won't Lock Out Locksmiths. Follow the simple service procedures for generating new keys and adding duplicates. New PATS ignition won't cut out locksmiths No matter what you might have heard, the new Ford PATS ignition lock does not have to be serviced by car dealers. On the contrary! PATS is serviceable by automotive locksmiths without headaches or expensive new equipment. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) appears for the first time on the 1996 Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable, and is an RFID (radio frequency identification) system being manufactured by Strattec Security Corp. (formerly Briggs & Stratton Technologies). On the most common types of calls received by locksmiths, PATS is among the easiest ignition locks to service. The system even includes self-diagnostics to help pinpoint particular problems. KEY/TRANSPONDER ASSEMBLY IGNITION SWITCH ANTENNA DASHBOARD INDICATOR RF TRANSCEIVER MODULE PATS CONTROL MODULE FUEL PUMP ENGINE MANAGEMENT ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT 1. A transponder, the heart of the PATS system and sealed inside the bow of the key, communicates with a security system onboard the vehicle to enable and disable the car. 36 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

36 We won't get into all of the service details here, but an overview of the system shows why the automotive locksmith has nothing to fear from PATS. PATS features a key with an enlarged head and eight cuts using four different depths. Sealed inside the head is a transponder, an electricallycoded device that resembles an automotive fuse. The transponder emits a signal when automatically energized by a power source inside the steering column. An antenna mounted around the lock cylinder behind the shroud receives the signal. The antenna relays the signal to the car's onboard computer; the car is allowed to start if the signal is recognized. If the signal is not the one the computer is programmed to recognize, the car is disabled. Strattec engineers note that the system can produce more than a trillion (yes, trillion) different codes. That means every key is, for all practical purposes, one of a kind. Yes, it's high-tech and very secure. But it's also easy to service. So what do you do when you get that call, and you will, from someone who lost his key and wants you to start his new PATS-equipped car? Service is simple Just grab a PATS key blank and mechanically cut it the way you would any other. Then put the key in the ignition and turn it to RUN. A theft indicator light on the dash begins flashing and continues to do so for 15 minutes. Within five minutes after the light goes off, turn the key to OFF and back to RUN. Again, the theft flashes for 15 minutes. Repeat the sequence a third time. That's all there is to it! Fortyfive minutes after you first put the newly-cut key in the ignition, the onboard computer has been reprogrammed. The memory of all previous keys has been erased, and the key you just made is the only one that starts the car. To make additional ignition keys, use the first key to cycle the lock from RUN to OFF. Within 15 seconds, put a new key in the ignition and turn it to RUN. The computer then recognizes the second key. This can be done for as many as 16 keys. Diagnostics built in If there are problems other than a lost or malfunctioning key, the theft light glows or flashes in a particular pattern to indicate where to find the malfunction. More information on service procedures will be presented in the future. For now, you can rest assured that the PATS from Ford and Strattec will not harm your automotive locksmithing business. So where did the rumors start? Europe, probably. The Passive Anti-Theft System is a bit different there. The computer cannot be reprogrammed to accept keys with codes different from the original. To make a new key, a master key with the original code is required. The masters are kept by the car owners, who must take the master to someone, usually a dealer, equipped with a special machine that copies the codes from the original key onto the new keys. That's not true in the good, old U.S.A., but a lot of bad information seems to have made its way to locksmiths. In fact, the master key-copying machine is being marketed to car dealers here. The machine does work, but it is expensive and not necessary for servicing the domestic Ford PATS. To obtain PATS key blanks ( for the Taurus and for the Sable), just contact your Strattec distributor. Yes, you can service the new PATS ignition lock. Strattec is counting on its partners in the locksmithing industry, as always, to keep drivers on the road. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise. This information provided by STRATTEC SECURITY CORP., developer of the PATS system. National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

37 AUTO PARTS Inside Industry News By Michael Hyde I n this issue of the NLAA newsletter we continue with our news about the auto industry. Ford Contour/ Mercury Mystique The ignition lock has no wings on it and can be somewhat more difficult for tryout keys to work. The design of this lock is little bit tighter on the tolerances. Remember to properly lubricate the cylinder before using try-out keys on it. The cuts that contact the key are on the down side of the cylinder. There is a hardened steel insert in the cylinder housing to prevent drilling the sidebar. If you are making a key to the trunk, the tumblers that contact the key are on the bottom/down side of the keyway. The tumblers are of wafer design, not pin tumbler. They impression very well. Mitsubishi X176/MIT1 Tired of removing the door panel to get to the code on the passenger door cylinder? Next time try removing the glove box lock and decoding it. The glove box cylinder contains the first 4 tumblers (in most cases). After you have the first four then you can use a computer program called "Fill the Combination" by Blackhawk Products. This enables you to determine the correct remaining cuts. Or you can impression the remaining cuts, since it is easier to impression the last four cuts than it is to impression all eight cuts. Japanese Car - First Key Which is faster; Impressioning the door lock, Getting the code off of the passenger door cylinder, or Removing the trunk cylinder and sight reading the tumblers through the drain hole area or even disassembling the trunk cylinder? You should always check the car to see if it has a lever operated trunk release. In many cases it is faster to remove the trunk lock and either sight read the tumblers through the drain hole area or disassemble the lock to make a first key to the car. In almost all cases the trunk lock on a Japanese car contains all the necessary tumblers to make a master key. Remember time is money. Did You Know... Did you know that BMW owns Land Rover. Did you know that Ford owns Jaguar and has a large interest in Mazda. Range Rover 4.0SE Update Speaking of Land Rover, even more precisely the new Range Rover 4.0SE. This redesigned model, as we have told you, has a new High Security lock system, and guess what? It utilizes the BMW keyway and tumblers. The only correct key out there for this sport utility vehicle is the Silca HU59. The blank is slightly shorter than the standard BMW 4-Track blank and has a longer cut-out for the shoulder/key trap area. Volkswagen High Security Yes, as with most other European car manufactures Volkswagen is going to a High Security locking system. The key will be of the 4-track internal type design with a twist. The right track will be a guide track and the left track will be the track with the cuts on it. The tracks are very narrow in design. Not expected to hit the American market till at least the 1997 model year. Security Systems vs. Airbags Americans right now love airbags, the car you are buying better have at least one airbag or even better yet why not dual airbags. Some new Volvos have 4 airbags. In Europe the craze is 38 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

38 factory ignition immobilizers, deadlocks, deadbolting, alarms, and most importantly transponders in the keys. Will "Card Access" cars be around the corner? Why the big deal with security in Europe? The answer is simple. The insurance companies in Europe are well organized and are tight-knit about getting manufactures to build cars with more and more anti-theft devices. The more devices to deter car theft the lower the insurance premium for the owner of the car. In Europe the insurance companies go after suspicious car thefts, meaning if the insurance company believes you stole your own car for the insurance money or maybe because you wanted new seats and a new paint job they, will hire an investigator to check it out. Lexus LX450 or LS600 Well the name may still be uncertain but the vehicle isn't. The new Lexus coming to a showroom near you will be a redesigned Toyota Landcruiser. Lexus has decided, as many other Luxury car manufactures have, that there is money in those so-called "sport utility" vehicles. If you can wait till spring of 1996 and have $50K laying around, you will be able to own one of these new babies. Mercedes Update Mercedes expects to release the newly redesigned E-class cars, in will be the year that Mercedes starts selling the all new sport utility vehicle built at their new Alabama plant. The plant is still under construction. Mercedes calls this new vehicle an "All Activity Vehicle." Toyota MR2 Toyota has decided to stop selling the MR2 model sales were far below expectations at 958 units. MR2 stands for "mid-engine, rear drive, two seater." Just in case you were wondering. National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

39 FEATURE ARTICLE GM 10-Cut Removal By A-1 Security Mfg. (Continued from Front Cover) 2. The 1995 GMC Jimmy with new style GM 10-Cut ignition. ignition cylinder you then remove it and decode the plug. The kit comes with a quality instruction manual. (See photograph 1.) We will guide you through using this service kit on a brand new 1995 GMC Jimmy Truck, ignition lock. (See photograph 2.) The ignition locks on 1995 and up GM trucks are of the new 10- Cut design, except that on the trucks there is no secondary housing. This means that the lock cylinder housing is an integral part of the steering column. The lock cylinder plug is inserted directly into that housing. When these columns are built, they are assembled with the shroud, ignition housing, steering wheel and so on. The ignition lock plug is inserted after the column 3. Remove the Torx screws and tilt lever arm from the lower shroud area. 40 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

40 arrives from the column manufacturer. Since the wings of the lock cylinder plug are larger than the opening in the shroud you cannot remove the upper section of the shroud. But with this service kit that is not a problem for the locksmith. First step, you MUST disconnect the battery to remove the ignition cylinder plug. If the truck you are working on has a GM Delco Anti-Theft radio it is very important that you have the security code to reset the radio once the battery is re-connected. Insert a T15 Torx driver and remove the two screws that hold the bottom half of the shroud to the column. Adjust the column to its mid-height position. Now remove the tiltcolumn lever. The lever pulls right out.(see photograph 3.) The next step is to gently, and I mean gently, unsnap the forward section of the shroud. The rear section of the shroud is hinged and does not unsnap. The lower section of the shroud is removed by pushing it towards the front of the truck, to release it from the molded plastic hooks. Or you can push the shroud out of your way. (See photograph 4.) There are two External Torx screws that hold the upper shroud to the column that need to be loosened. The first one is located on the right side of the column, forward of the lock housing. Loosen this screw but do not remove it. Use an E5 driver for this procedure.(see photograph 5.) The other screw to be loosened is on the left side of the column. The screw goes 4. Tilt down the front of the lower shroud and push it towards the front of the truck to remove the lower shroud. 5. Loosen the right upper shroud screw. through a plate to a post that is connected to the upper shroud. It is important to hold the post and not allow it to turn as you loosen the screw. (See photograph 6.) The next step is insert the side-bar pressure tool. This can be a tricky at first. Insert a small screwdriver between the cylinder plug and the cylinder housing to make sure the plug is out as far as it will go in the locked position. You will need to angle the tool to fit it between the shroud and the wings of the cylinder. There is an exposed area to insert the tool. It may take a few minutes to locate it National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

41 6. Loosen the left upper shroud screw. the first time. Once you have done it, this procedure becomes much easier. When the tool is in the correct position, it is about 5/8" from the groove in the wings. (See photograph 7.) Next insert one of the supplied rocker picks. It is intended for you to rock the pick back and forth and apply slight pressure to the side bar pressure tool, until the side bar depresses. You can tell when the cylinder is picked by trying to rotate the cylinder every few seconds while using the rocker picks in between these intervals. The service kit supplies you with four styles of the rocker picks, and they perform well. (See photograph 8.) Once you have the cylinder picked, the cylinder turns just a little bit, when this happens insert the specially cut brass key. The special key is needed because as the cylinder plug rotates it needs to clear the buzzer switch that sits down in the cylinder housing. The special key is supplied. This 7. Insert the sidebar depression tool over the sidebar. Above shows what the inserted tool looks like without the column shroud. The lower photograph shows the tool inserted as it actually appears in a truck. 42 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

42 switch is made of plastic and can easily be broken if you force the cylinder plug. The average replacement cost for this switch is $142. (See photograph 9.) Now that you have the cylinder picked, you need to maneuver the plug release tool into the right position. The reason the battery needs to be disconnected is because the cylinder plug only releases with the ignition in the START position. Turn the plug to the START position and pull down on the plug release tool. The plug release tool is supplied with the service kit. (See photograph 10.) Once you have pushed in on the retainer, the cylinder plug will pop-out. Remember to remove the plug release tool and the side-bar pressure tool. (See photograph 11.) The code is usually stamped on the rear section of the plug in a dot-matrix pattern. The code is not always there, though. For just this problem, A-1 has supplied you with a 8. Use the supplied rocker picks to pick the lock. STANDARD KEY PLUG REMOVAL KEY 9. Once picked insert this specially cut key. It is used to prevent damage to the $142 buzzer switch. Youch! National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

43 10. Turn the plug to the START position and depress the plug retainer. The left photo shows the location of the retainer access hole. The right photo shows the tool as it actually appears being used in the vehicle. 11. The plug removed. tumbler reader. Apply light pressure on the side-bar and pick the plug, insert the reader into the tumbler chamber to read the depth of each tumbler. (See photograph 12.) This service kit includes a very complete set of tools to do the job. I have used this service kit several times myself, and have found it a valuable addition to my tools and equipment. For more information on the PS2 GM 10-Cut Pick, contact an authorized A-1 distributor. Or, call A-1 at (804) Reading the lock using A-1 s GM tumbler reader. 44 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

44 FEATURE ARTICLE Finishing Up The Scorpio We talked about it before, now pick or generate keys for this vehicle quickly and easily. By Tom Seroogy I n the Spring '95 edition of the Automotive Edge, we covered the locksets on the Scorpio. Needless to say, we were soon swamped with both questions and suggestions on easier ways of making keys for this vehicle; and, why we were even wasting time covering a car that is so limited in number. Let me answer the latter questions first. Granted the Scorpio is limited in number. But that doesn't mean they don't and won't need keys to operate. Also, there's money to be made in making Scorpio Tibbe and Jaguar Tibbe keys, both from duplication and from generating first keys. If most locksmiths want to pass that business back to the dealer, that option is always available. Then, again, while not applicable for every locksmith, if you're the only locksmith in town who can service this lock system, both dealers and locksmiths are bound to throw service your way. And, of course, let's give "WOR," or the "Winds Of Rumor," the benefit of the doubt. Auto manufacturers have been busy for some time now, scurrying to create an 1. The Tibbe pick is comprised of two simple pieces - the pick and the template. National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn

45 There are four tumbler shapes that make up the bitting of the key and lock. "international" vehicle. The reason is simple, by producing a car model that uses the same components world-wide, costs are driven down. Ford has been especially aggressive in this arena. And, with the Ford European vehicles being tied so closely to the Tibbe system, chances are we'll see a few more entries of this lock system into the States before too long. With that stated, let's continue onto the real reason for this article - finding a fast and easy alternative for making a key to this vehicle. One of the amazing things about the Tibbe lock is its simplicity. A few discs are rotated to a position for a sidebar to drop in. In fact, the only factor maintaining the "high security" status of this lock, is its scarcity here in the States. If these locks were as common as even the Mercedes or Lexus, locksmiths would find them little more than a nuisance to pick and generate keys for. 3. After degreasing, place the template over the lock and insert the pick. One of the tools making this possible is the Tibbe Lock Pick from Souber Tools. Now, there's no magic about this tool. It does pick Ford (not Jaguar) Tibbe locks and can even be used to generate new Tibbe keys without dismantling the lock. But, it takes practice. If you don't want to spend the time practicing - don't spend your money. On the other hand, anyone with a locksmith's touch can learn to use this tool effectively, and use it to make money the easy way. Before starting, however, take time to review the Scorpio article on page 11 of the Spring '95 Automotive Edge newsletter. Tool Description Aside from the instructions, there are really only two working components to the Tibbe Pick - the pick and the template. The pick is little more than a Tibbe key, modified so that only one tumbler at a time can be moved. Small hash or index marks are present on the upper part of the key blade to keep track of the spacing. Because the index marks are referenced for the ignition lock, adjustments need to be made it reading a door lock. The template references the tumbler 46 Autumn 1995 National Locksmith Automobile Association

46 bitting, position and angle, and is used with the pick to check and position each of the six tumblers. (See photograph 1.) Lock Information Before beginning, let's take a quick look at the characteristics of the Tibbe lock. There are six discs in each lock. Each disc can be one of four shapes or angles. Each of these shapes coincides with an angle of the cut key. A round cutout at the edge of the tumbler is for the side roller bar. When the correct key is inserted and turned, it picks up the tumblers, aligning the roller bar spaces to create a cavity in which the roller bar can seat. As the key continues to turn, the roller bar falls into the cavity and allows the key to continue turning, unlocking the vehicle. The angle at which each shape tumbler picks up and aligns for the side roller bar is seen on the template. Tumbler 4 is 10, tumbler 3 is 20, tumbler 2 is 30 and tumbler 1 is 40. (See illustration 2.) Like GM there are a few rules, that if learned and followed, can be used to help pick or generate a key for this lock. Rule 1 - The number 4 disc is the disc that turns the barrel. Therefore, at least one of the six tumblers has to be a number 4. Rule 2 - There are never more than two adjacent number 1 discs in a lock. This means that there can never be a combination or bitting where exists. If there are two adjacent number 1 discs, a 2, 3 or 4 disc must be on one side or the other of this combination. With these two rules in hand, picking and/or finding the key bitting is just a matter of a process of elimination. Picking/Reading The Lock 1. These locks are normally very greasy. This grease must be removed as much as possible. Not removing the grease can cause adjacent tumblers to stick and turn as a tumbler is being manipulated. A good electrical contact cleaner works very well for this, although make sure that 4. All number 4 discs stop at the 10 mark. Take note which discs are number 4's and continue. 5. With the 4 discs noted, set all discs to the 25 or "A" mark. it cannot damage the cars paint. 2. Place the template over the lock, making sure that the centerline of the lock face and the 0 line of the template are perfectly aligned. (See photograph 3.) 3. Insert and remove the pick into the lock to reset all the tumblers. 4. For this step we are looking for the number 4 disc. Starting National Locksmith Automobile Association Autumn