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1 Tech Knowledgebase Category

2 Contents Engine Service Point Locations (2rz/3rz/5vz) 1 Fuel Filter Application Guide 1 Oil and Oil Filter Application Guide 2 Air Filter Application Guide 2 Replace Your Clutch Pedal Bushings 3 Replace Your Fuel Filter (3.4L V6) Fluid Capacity Charts 15 Replacement Light Bulb Designations ( ) L Supercharger Oil Change Kit Instructions 20 Supercharger Drive Assembly Replacement (3rd gen. 3.4L S/C) 20 Extended Frame Rust Coverage Information (95-00 Model Year Tacomas) 20

3 Engine Service Point Locations (2rz/3rz/5vz) Not sure where to add brake fluid or windshield washer fluid? Check out the drawings below to help you service your engine: 2.4L & 2.7L (2rz & 3rz) Engines: 3.4L (5vz) Engines: Fuel Filter Application Guide Below is a fuel filter application guide for Tacoma models, seperated by engine size: Manufacturer 2.4L/2.7L 4cyl. 3.4L V6 Purolator F45075 F44710 Fram - 16V G7629 G6680 Fram - 16V Universal G7196 Â NAPA - Gold FIL of 20

4 FIL 3319 Oil and Oil Filter Application Guide The Toyota service manual states that all model year Tacoma trucks should use 5W-30 oil.the 2.4L, 2.7L, and 3.4L engines all take the same oil filter. Below is a list of part numbers for popular brand name oil filters: Brand Part # Amsoil SDF57 Fram - Tough Gaurd TG3614 Fram - X2 Extended Guard XG3614 Fram - Extra Gaurd PH3614 K&N - Performance Gold HP1002 NAPA - Gold Filter FIL 1348 NAPA - Silver Filter SFI Purolator - Oil Filter L Purolator - Pure One PL Toyota Genuine YZZB1 Toyota TRD Air Filter Application Guide Below is an air filter application guide for Tacoma models, seperated by engine size: 2 of 20

5 Manufacturer 2.4L/2.7L 4cyl. 3.4L V6 Amsoil TS117 TS115 Purolator A24645 A34886 Fram CA6690 CA7626 NAPA - Gold FIL 6162 FIL 6109 NAPA - Silver SFI Â Toyota Genuine Toyota TRD Replace Your Clutch Pedal Bushings By: RevHard6 So, if you're like me, you wait until the squeal from your clutch pedal is driving you absolutely insane then you do something about it. Replacing the clutch pedal bushings is a fairly straight forward project. It also seems to be a near annual event for my truck. You will need the new bushings, a few tools, and an hour or so to complete the replacement. Toyota Part Numbers for Replacement Bushings: ea (Round for the sides of the spring) ea (U-shaped for the center of the spring/pedal groove) ea (Round for the center pivot tube of the clutch pedal) ea (fork plunger through pin bushing) ea (spring) Tools used: 3/8 ratchet 3 of 20

6 Various ratchet extensions 14mm, 12mm, 10mm sockets 14mm wrench Philips/Standard screwdriver Channel locks Grease Brute strength 1. Refer to the Dash Take-Apart Instructions, Steps 6, 7 & 8 to give your self some working room. 2. Remove the 12mm bolt from under the dash. This is where a long ratchet extension comes in handy. A universal ratchet joint may be used as well, but I found it to be more of a pain to try to get it to line up with the angle of the bolt. 4 of 20

7 3. Pop the hood to access the clutch master cylinder (CMC). There are two 12mm nuts that are on the body of the CMC that attach to studs that go through the firewall. These two studs are holding the clutch pedal assembly to firewall under the dash inside the cab. Once the two nuts are removed, GENTLY pull the CMC towards the front of the truck to free the studs from the CMC. WARNING - the CMC is plumbed with solid tubing. Be very careful in moving the CMC around to avoid kinking the lines! 4. The clutch pedal assembly is now free of the firewall. You must now get back under the dash to access the fork/plunger assembly that attaches the clutch pedal to the CMC. The fork/plunger is connected to the clutch pedal via a trough-pin that is held in place by two small tension washers and a cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin and push the through-pin out of the assembly. BE CAFEFUL to account for the two small tension washers that are on either side of the through-pin, they are easy to loose. Remove the two electrical connections on either side of the clutch pedal. The clutch pedal assembly should now be completely free and can be removed with a little creative wiggling. Again, be careful not to be to forceful with the fork/plunger connected to the CMC. 5 of 20

8 5. Once the pedal assembly is removed you can inspect the bushings for replacement. If one is shot, chances are the others are as well. Considering you have the entire pedal out of the truck, you may as well replace all the bushings while you have easy access to the assembly. The center spring bushing is the main culprit of the squeaking that you hear when depressing the pedal. It eventually gets eaten away allowing for that great metal-on-metal squeal. 6 of 20

9 6. Removing the spring is a bit of a pain. I accomplished this by securing the pedal assembly in a vice and squeezing each coil on the spring with the channel locks. I then pried the end of the spring out with a screwdriver. Don't worry about messing up the bushing as it's going to get replaced. Once one side was out it was easy to wrangle the other side out. The old bushings were then cut out of the assembly or simply fell out due to wear. 7. Remove the pedal from the assembly using the 14mm socket and wrench. When the nut is removed the bolt will slide through the assembly and the pedal can be removed. When the pedal is free of the assembly pivot tube and bushings can be removed. 7 of 20

10 8. Old vs. New From left to right: Center pivot tube bushings, U-shaped spring bushing, round side spring bushings. 9. Clean and re-grease the pivot tube and bushing. Re-install the pivot tube and bushings into the pedal and then install the pedal into the assembly. 8 of 20

11 10. Install and grease the three remaining bushings. Tip: For the side bushings, I used the channel locks to squeeze them into place then tapped them in the rest of the way with the screwdriver. 11. Re-install the spring. Here's where the brute force tool comes in handy. The spring is a little reluctant to get back into its perch. I placed one end of the spring into the side bushing and the center of the spring into the U- shaped bushing and pedal. **Make sure you have the spring facing the right way before you get too far! I then used a large screwdriver placed through the spring and levered on it. The spring then compressed enough to where I could muscle it back into place. This step is what took the longest and caused me to curse the most. 9 of 20

12 12. Installation is the reverse of removal. Keep in mind not to move the CMC too much. If it all possible, have an extra set of hands hold the pedal assembly to the firewall while you re-bolt the CMC. When reattaching the fork/plunger of the CMC to the clutch pedal (See step 4) make sure you re-install the two little tension washers on the through-pin. A word of advice; although the replacement of the bushings is not terribly difficult, if your truck is still under warranty when you get the clutch pedal squeal, take it to the dealer. Replace Your Fuel Filter (3.4L V6) By: Jeff Toyota recommends that you replace your fuel filter every 30,000 miles or 24 months. The operation is simple and should take no more than 30 minutes. The part should cost no more than about $15 at your local auto parts store. Tools Needed: - Fuel Filter (Which part # do I need?) - Sockets: 10mm (deep-well recommended) - Wrenches: 19mm and 14mm - Shop rags and glass jar (to collect leaking fuel) Depressurize Fuel System It is VERY important that you depressurize the fuel system before you replace your fuel filter. Failure to do so may result in injury from gasoline under pressure. Follow these steps: 1. Remove gas cap from filler neck. This will relieve the pressure in the tank. 10 of 20

13 2. Remove the fuel pump circuit relay to disable the fuel pump. This relay is located under the dash on the drivers side near the fuse block. Simply pull it out and leave on the floor until you are done. Alternatively, you may disconnect the fuel pump harness on the gas tank. However, removing the circuit relay is usually much easier. Under the dash Looking up from floorboard 11 of 20

14 Closeup of relay 3. Start the truck and wait for the engine to stall. Once it has stalled, the fuel pressure has been relieved. It is safe to continue. Replace the Filter Location: On the 3.4L V6 engine, the fuel filter is located under the truck about midway back on the drivers side - almost directly under the driver's seat. It will look similar to the photo to the right: 1. Use the 19mm and 14mm wrenches to loosen the banjo bolt on either end of the fuel filter. Have shop rags and/or jar ready as gas will begin to leak out immediately. 12 of 20

15 2. Remove the two 10mm nuts that hold the fuel filter bracket to the body of the truck. Once the bracket is loose, you should be able to manuever the filter and bracket loose from the truck. 3. Loosen the 10mm filter clamp bolt and remove the old filter, and install the new filter in the bracket. While doing this, take note of the direction that the filter is installed. The new filter should have a Flow >> indicator on it. Make sure that the new filter is installed the correct direction. Loosely tighten the 10mm filter clamp bolt, leaving some room for play. 13 of 20

16 4. Manuever the bracket and new filter into place and tighten the banjo bolts. Tighten the 10mm nuts that attach the bracket to the body. Tighten the 10mm filter clamp bolt. 14 of 20

17 5. Re-install the fuel pump circuit relay (or the fuel pump harness) and start the truck. The first crank-over of the truck may result in some stuttering due to the loss in fuel pressure. 6. Check fuel filter fittings for leaks. You're done! Fluid Capacity Charts Below are charts containing fluid capacity information, divided by engine type and drivetrain type. Information was collected from Toyota service manuals and owner's manuals. This information only to be used as a guide. Be sure to always check your owner's manual for fluid capacity specifics. Â Engine Oil 2wd 2.4L: Drained with filter 5.8 Qts. (5.5L) 2.4L: Drained, w/out filter 5.0Qts. (4.8L) 3.4L: Drained with filter 5.7Qts. (5.4L) 3.4L: Drained w/out filter 5.4Qts. (5.1L) 15 of 20

18 4wd 2.7L: Drained with filter 5.7Qts. (5.4L) 2.7L: Drained w/out filter 5.0Qts. (4.7L) 3.4L: Drained with filter 5.5Qts. (5.2L) 3.4L: Drained w/out filter 5.2Qts. (4.9L) Recommended oil viscosity: SAE 5W-30 Â Engine Coolant 2wd 2.4L (M/T) (95-97) 5.8Qts. (5.5L) 2.4L (M/T (98-00) 8.5Qts (8.0L) 2.4L (A/T) (95-97) 5.1Qts. (4.8L) 2.4L (A/T) (98-00) 8.2Qts. (7.8L) 3.4L (M/T) (95-97) 5.5Qts. (5.2L) 3.4L (M/T) (98-00) 10.3Qts. (9.7L) 3.4L (A/T) (95-97) 5.2Qts. (4.9L) 3.4L (A/T) (98-00) 10.0Qts. (9.5L) 4wd 2.7L (M/T) 8.8Qts. (8.3L) 2.7L (A/T) 8.7Qts. (8.2L) 16 of 20

19 3.4L (M/T) 10.7Qts. (10.1L) 3.4L (A/T) 10.5Qts. (10.0L) Â Transfer Case Oil Drained 1.1Qts. (1.0L) Oil type: Gear oil API GL-4 or GL-5 Recommended oil viscosity: SAE 75W-90 Â Automatic Transmission Fluid 2.4L: Drained Up to 2.5Qts.(2.4L) 3.4L (2wd): Drained Up to 1.7Qts. (1.6L) 4WD models: Drained Up to 2.1Qts. (2.0L) Fluid type: 2rz - Toyota Genuine ATF D-II or DEXRON III(DEXRON II) 3rz and 5vz - Toyota Genuine ATF Type T-IV Â Manual Transmission Fluid 2.4L: Drained 2.7Qts. (2.6L) 2.7L: Drained 2.6Qts. (2.5L) 3.4L(2wd): Drained 2.7Qts. (2.6L) 3.4L(4wd): Drained 2.3 Qts. (2.2L) Oil type: Gear oil API GL-4 or GL5 Recommended oil viscosity: SAE 75W of 20

20  Differential Oil 2.4L(2wd): Drained 1.4Qts. (1.35L) 3.4L(2wd): Drained 2.7Qts. (2.5L) 4wd Models (w/ ADD)(Front) 1.2Qts. (1.15L) 4wd Models (w/out ADD)(Front) 1.2Qts. (1.1L) 4wd Models w/ Short Wheel Base1 2.8Qts. (2.65L) 4wd Models w/ Short Wheel Base2 2.7Qts. (2.55L) 4wd w/ X-tra Long Wheel Base1 3.1Qts. (2.95L) 4wd w/ X-tra Long Wheel Base2 2.6Qts. (2.45L) Oil type: Gear oil API GL-5 Recommended oil viscosity: SAE 75W With rear differential lock system 2- Without rear differential lock system  Fuel Tank 2wd: Capacity (95-00) 15.1 Gals. (57.0L) 2wd: Capacity (01-up) 16.0 Gals (60L) 4wd: Capacity (95-00) 18.0 Gals. (68.0L) 4wd: Capacity (01-up) 18.5 Gals. (70L) Replacement Light Bulb Designations ( ) 18 of 20

21 This is a summary listing of the numerical light bulb designations for replacement applications on Tacomas. The data was compiled from information obtained from Osram / Sylvania's Lamp Replacement Guide: The Osram / Sylvania product numbers are widely used as the common designators for the different bulb types. If anything changed during the period , the listing below breaks out the subperiods during which a designation was applicable. If no specific years are listed, that means the Sylvania guide indicated the bulb designation applies for the entire period Headlight (Sealed Beams) = H (Replaceable Halogen Capsules) = 9003 Parking Light = = 4157 (optionally) Front Turn Signal = = 4157 Rear Turn Signal = 1156 Tail Light = 1157 Stop Light / Brake Light = 1157 High Mount Stop Light (3rd Brake Light) = = 168 License Plate = = 194 Back Up Light = = 921 Front Sidemarker = 168 Glove box = 74 Dome Light = DE3175 Step/Courtesy light = DE3021 / DE3022 Trunk/Cargo area = DE3022 ( only) Instrument - General = of 20

22 3.4L Supercharger Oil Change Kit Instructions Here are the instructions for the TRD oil change kit for supercharged 3.4L V6 engines (5VZ-FE). View PDF file >> Supercharger Drive Assembly Replacement (3rd gen. 3.4L S/C) Here are the instructions for replacing the drive assembly in the 3rd generation (grey) TRD superchargers for the 3.4L V6 engine (5VZ-FE). View the PDF file >> Extended Frame Rust Coverage Information (95-00 Model Year Tacomas) Toyota has received isolated reports regarding a small number of 1995 through 2000 model year Tacoma vehicles exhibiting excessive rust corrosion to the frame causing perforation of the metal. Toyota has investigated these reports and determined that the vehicle frames in some vehicles may not have adequate corrosion-resistant protection. This combined with prolonged exposure to road salts and other environmental factors may contribute to the development of excessive rust corrosion in the frames of some vehicles. This is unrelated to and separate from normal surface rust which is commonly found on metallic surfaces after some years of usage and/or exposure to the environment. Although the vehicleâ s frame is covered by Toyotaâ s New Vehicle Limited Warranty for 3 years or 36,000 miles (whichever comes first), we at Toyota care about the customerâ s overall experience and confidence in their vehicle. To assure our customers that we stand behind the product, we are providing an extension of the warranty coverage on certain 1995 through 2000 model year Tacoma vehicles for perforation of the vehicleâ s frame caused by rust corrosion. This warranty extension will be offered for a period of 15 years with no mileage limitation from the vehicleâ s in-service date, for this specific condition. The owner notification will commence in mid-march Below are the vehicle inspection and warranty policy files Toyota has been distributing to their dealers: -Â Vehicle Inspection Procedures -Â Warranty Policy Information Ongoing owner discussion about this issue is taking place in the CustomTacos.com Forum in this thread: 20 of 20

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