Replace clutch and flywheel * (Volkswagen Sharan 2010-Present)

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Terence Melton
5 years ago
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Replace clutch and flywheel * (Volkswagen Sharan 2010-Present) *Caution! This instructions are created by random users and must be used as a reference only!

Administration will not accept any responsibility for damage to you or your vehicle after following these instructions bellow.

hooks and chain, hammer, breaker bar, pry bar, screwdrivers, clutch alignment tool, tube for clutch bleeding valve + jar/bottle, good to have pressure bleeder, also get a bottle of new

1 Replace clutch and flywheel * (Volkswagen Sharan 2010-Present) *Caution! This instructions are created by random users and must be used as a reference only! Please, take all safety precautions, and if you're not sure - don't act! Administration will not accept any responsibility for damage to you or your vehicle after following these instructions bellow. Tools we need: Jack + suitable stands, sets of sockets and bits (spline and torx), 9mm spline socket for clutch, torque wrench(es), jack adaptor for gearbox, engine support beam with 2 hooks and chain, hammer, breaker bar, pry bar, screwdrivers, clutch alignment tool, tube for clutch bleeding valve + jar/bottle, good to have pressure bleeder, also get a bottle of new brake fluid (DOT 4), WD-40, brake and clutch cleaner and copper grease. Get someone else to help you! Use glasses while working under car! Posted by: waway This is how we do it: 1. Jack up front of the car, remove left wheel and bottom undercover, T20 and T45 srews/bolts (See Image 1 below) - DO NOT use jack on it's own to support car, put stands under suspension mounts - Page 1 of 34 -

2 (Image 2) and any extra support is only better. Make sure that stands you use are capable to hold cars weight, they stand straight and on a hard surface. Apply handbrake and chock rear wheels. 2. Now we need to get access to gearbox from the top, so this is what we do: - open the bonnet/hood - pull off engine top cover - remove 2xT25 torx bolts (Image 3) and remove first bit of the front air intake from the grill (Image 3) - remove second bit of intake pipe by pressing clip in with the screwdriver (Image 3) - undo 5mm allen bolt that holds air filter box (Image 4), please note that you can't take it out completely - there's a catch so you don't lose it. - pull air filter box upwards out of rubber-plastic catches at the bottom - disconnect MAF connector (pull grey bit out and press it), breather pipe and loosen hose clamp (Image 4). *NOTE: When disconnecting air pipe after air filter, make sure that nothing gets in there, cover both ends with something (pull rubber gloves over them) - remove battery covers (Image 5) - remove 13mm bolt that holds battery bracket (Image 5) and unwrap the battery, if - Page 2 of 34 -

3 it's wrapped. - loosen 10mm nuts on battery terminals - Important! Disconnect negative lead first, then positive - remove the battery - remove battery tray (Image 6), 3x10mm bolts. There will be wire on the way, to remove it open fuse box and undo 10mm nut that holds the wire (Image 6) 3. Then we free up the gearbox from anything else that's attached to it: - disconnect gear selection cables (Image 7) and bracket that holds them (Image 7), then take them out of the way - can secure with wire or cable tie. - disconnect "earth" wire from the mount (Image 8) - clamp off hydraulic pipe for slave cylinder (Image 8) and disconnect it by pulling metal spring/clip up. *NOTE: it's not necessary to take that spring out completely - enough to pull it up as far as it goes. Preferably disconnect together with bleeding valve (less risk of damaging it, while removing the gearbox) - disconnect starter motor electrical connections (Image 9), remove 13mm nuts that hold plastic bracket (at the top and at the bottom) and move bracket away, take out 2x18mm long bolts that hold starter motor to the engine and remove starter motor - Page 3 of 34 -

4 - disconnect 2 more connectors on the gearbox (Image 9) - reversing gear sensor and neutral gear sensor (for cars with start-stop technology) - move wires and hydraulic pipe out of the way - secure with cable tie or wire - remove 2 top bolts (18mm) that hold gearbox to the engine (Image 10) 4. Remove driveshafts from the gearbox. Only left driveshaft needs to be removed completely, as for the one on the right - it's enough just to disconnect it from gearbox: - remove liner/dirt protection from under left wheel arch (Image 11) normally held by 11xT20 screws _ remove hub bolt (Image 11) - 24mm spline bolt (12 sided star, also known as triple square). It's a tight bolt, so ask your partner to press on brakes. *NOTE: Important! If you trying to loosen that bolt while wheel is on and car is on the ground DO NOT turn it for more that 90 degrees otherwise you're risking to damage wheel bearing! - clean up, lubricate with WD-40 and remove 3x16mm nuts that hold suspension arm to ball joint (Image 12) - clean up, lubricate with WD-40 and remove track rod end nut (18mm) (Image 12). If it's spinning together with ball joint, there's option to counterhold it from the bottom with T40 torx bit. When the nut is off, take a hammer and hit from the bottom to take track rod end out from the joint. - with 19mm socket on extension gently tap driveshaft end out of the hub - Page 4 of 34 -

5 - remove 6xM10 spline bolts from driveshaft to the gearbox connection (Image 13) and take driveshaft out. Insert hub bolt back into driveshaft to prevent spill of lubrication. - remove 2x16mm bolts that hold heat protection for right driveshaft (Image 13) and remove heat shield. - remove 6xM10 spline bolts from right driveshaft to the gearbox connection (Image 13) and move driveshaft aside - disconnect oil level and temperature sensor (Image 13) - remove 3 bolts that hold pendulum support and take pendulum support out (Image 13) - remove intercooler air pipe (Image 13a) 5. Now we need to support the engine and the gearbox and remove mount. There are few ways to do so. In this video engine was supported by bar, also known as support beam. Support the engine just by one hook (Image 14), because the other one is best to use to support the gearbox. We will support the gearbox from the top after we remove mount. Make sure that the hook is nice and tight, so we know that engine is supported: - remove 2 bottom bolts that hold the gearbox to the engine (Image 15) - support the gearbox from the bottom with jack and gearbox adaptor (Image 14) - remove 3x18mm bolts from the mount (Image 16). If you can get them loose - that - Page 5 of 34 -

6 means that engine with gearbox are supported. - lower the engine and gearbox, remove 3x18mm bolts from the bracket and remove the bracket (Image 16) *NOTE: Important! Any time you lower or raise the engine, keep checking if there's anything on a way (wires pipes etc.), so you don't damage anything. - insert 2 opposite bolts that held mount bracket through opposite ends of the chain (that comes with engine support beam)(image 14a), make sure that heads of those bolts can't go through links of the chain and you don't have unpleasant situation of dropping the gearbox on yourself... Hang the chain over a second hook. Not through the link, but over the hook so you can manoeuvre the gearbox later. Tighten bolts as far as they go. Also make sure that both hooks are nice and tight, so we know that engine and gearbox are supported. - remove remaining 2 side bolts that hold gearbox to the engine (Image 15) 6. Now is the exciting bit - remove the gearbox: - with the gearbox supported, lower the engine and gearbox (keep checking where it goes) and using pry bar carefully move gearbox away from the engine - next steps you need to do, this manual can't explain you so precisely, because it all depends what kind of gearbox support you're using. The challenge is - gearbox can't go down in it's natural horizontal position, so - Page 6 of 34 -

7 differential side, the side where driveshafts were connected needs to go up, to go around subframe. There are special VW gearbox support adaptors that can turn gearbox in all dimensions. I didn't have one - I had support beam with a chain and universal jack adaptor from the bottom. First, I attached chain to both sides of gearbox (Image 14), then pulled gearbox by differential side, lowered it, then supported with the jack from the bottom, then disconnected one end of the chain to get more length and hooked it up to support beam hook and lowered to the ground. Whichever way you wiggle the gearbox to bring it down please remember few important points: - always make sure that you work with supported gearbox - it's heavy! Help from a partner is essential. - while wiggling gearbox, make sure you don't damage sensors sticking out from it or anything else 7. Replace concentric slave cylinder: - clean up inside gearbox bell with metal brush - replace concentric slave cylinder held by 3x9mm bolts, tighten them up to 15Nm (Image 17) 8. Replace clutch and flywheel: - Page 7 of 34 -

8 *NOTE: There are two major brands for clutch - LUK and SACHS. In case if you decide to keep old flywheel and replace only clutch, please remember, that brands of clutch and flywheel have to match. - remove 6x9mm spline bolts and remove pressure plate (Image 18) and friction disc - remove 6x12mm inner spline bolts and remove flywheel (image 18), use alen key for counterhold - check and straighten up if necessary gasket between engine and gearbox (do not straighten middle bit that clips in) - attach new flywheel, preferably renew bolts, and tighten them up to 60Nm + 90Â in a star pattern (gradually). Note, that position of bolts is asymmetric, so there's only one way you can fit the flywheel. - clean flywheel with brake and clutch cleaner liquid and clean tissue - clean pressure plate with brake and clutch cleaner liquid and clean tissue, check for any possible visible damage - before you press friction disc with pressure plate against flywheel, friction disc needs to be aligned, to be straight in the middle, to be able to fit gearbox spline through it. I've used alignment tool (Image 19). There are few types of alignment tools, whichever you use follow instructions that come with it. I had to apply few layers of solitape on the end of my tool for tighter fit. Note, "Getriebeseite" sign on the friction disc means - gearbox side. - with friction disc aligned attach pressure plate and gradually in a star pattern tighten bolts up to 20Nm, - Page 8 of 34 -

9 (Tightening torque is 20Nm for M7 bolts and 13Nm for M6 bolts) 9. Fit the gearbox back: - apply a little bit of copper grease on gearbox spline - with a combination of jack, adaptor, support bar and chain fit gearbox back. Start lifting by differential side, once you get it over subframe put it straight and fit it in. Make sure that gearbox is always supported, so you don't drop it! - once it's in tighten 6 bolts - 16mm up to 40Nm, 18mm up to 80Nm - attach mount bracket and tighten 3x18mm bolts up to 60Nm + 90Â - attach mount bracket to the mount, if holes are misaligned help gearbox with the jack from the bottom, tighten 3x18mm bolts up to 60Nm + 90Â 10. Final touches + bleeding hydraulic clutch system: Put everything back together in reverse sequence, start any bolts by hand to make sure that you don't brake the thread Some more tightening torques: - driveshaft to the gearbox - 10Nm around and then up to final torque of 70Nm - driveshaft hub bolt: if it has ribbed surface on inside 70Nm + 90Â, if it's flat 200Nm + 180Â - Page 9 of 34 -

10 *NOTE: driveshaft spline didn't want to go inside hub so easy, so I had to use help of a friend - I held it from inside, and my friend applied some brutal force (Image 20), BUT! We also have: *** Important update! Following comment from "Bee ShopCS", while putting left driveshaft into place, instead of hitting on a brake disc, if you are struggling to insert spline into wheel bearing - insert outer joint first (because it's easier to align splines while the other end is loose), and then connect inner joint, but make sure that it's all sits straight and you don't break the thread. *** - 3x16mm nuts for ball joint (Image 12), if suspension arm is made of aluminium 100Nm, if iron cast - 60Nm - track rod end nut (Image 12) - first tighten up to 100Nm, then turn back 180Â, then re-tighten up to 100Nm. If it's spinning together with ball joint, there's option to counterhold it from the bottom with T40 torx bit. - pendulum support 18mm bolt - 100Nm + 90Â, and 2x16mm - 60Nm + 90Â (Image 13) - starter motor bolts - 80Nm - they also have function of holding gearbox to the engine. Clean up starter motor positive wire from rust. Now we need to bleed clutch hydraulic system. Remove rubber cup off the nipple (Image 21), attach tube/hose to that and put the other end of it into jar or bottle. If your hose doesn't have valve, make sure that the other end is emerged into brake fluid, so it doesn't suck any air back. There are 2 ways of bleeding clutch: - Page 10 of 34 -

11 1) Ask your partner to press clutch pedal few times, then press and keep holding it, then open valve with 13mm spanner let all bubbles to come out, close valve. Repeat procedure few times, till you can see that only clean brake fluid is coming out. 2) My preferred, more professional way - use pressure bleeder (Image 21), fill it with brake fluid, attach it to brake fluid reservoir, pump it up to 2 bar, then open bleeding valve. Also can be used with combination of pressing clutch pedal few times. - anything else goes back in reverse sequence - connect battery's positive lead first, then negative - make sure there's no grease left on the brakes! Easy! Here's YouTube video link: - Page 11 of 34 -

12 Image 1 - Bottom undercover - Page 12 of 34 -

13 Image 2 - Front of the car supported by stands, and bottle jack for extra security - Page 13 of 34 -

14 Image 3 - Air filter intake pipes - Page 14 of 34 -

15 Image 4 - Air filter housing with connections - Page 15 of 34 -

16 Image 5 - Battery covers and bracket - Page 16 of 34 -

17 Image 6 - Battery tray - Page 17 of 34 -

18 Image 7 - Gear selection cables - Page 18 of 34 -

19 Image 8 - Hidraulic pipe for clutch slave cylinder and earth wire - Page 19 of 34 -

20 Image 9 - Starter motor and gearbox sensors - Page 20 of 34 -

21 Image 10-2 top bolts that hold gearbox to the engine - Page 21 of 34 -

22 Image 11 - Under wheel arch dirt protection and hub bolt - Page 22 of 34 -

23 Image 12 - Nuts for ball joint and track rod end - Page 23 of 34 -

24 Image 13 - Driveshafts to the gearbox connections, oil sensor and pendulum support - Page 24 of 34 -

25 Image 13a - Intercooler pipe - Page 25 of 34 -

26 Image 14 - Supporting the engine and the gearbox - Page 26 of 34 -

27 Image 14a - Bolts that held mount bracket now hooked up on a chain to support beam - Page 27 of 34 -

28 Image 15-4 more bolts that hold gearbox to the engine - Page 28 of 34 -

29 Image 16 - Gearbox mount - Page 29 of 34 -

30 Image 17 - Concentric slave cylinder - Page 30 of 34 -

31 Image 18 - Pressure plate and flywheel - Page 31 of 34 -

32 Image 19 - Clutch alignment tool - Page 32 of 34 -

33 Image 20 - Places where to apply your brutal force to guide driveshaft into hub - Page 33 of 34 -

34 Image 21 - Clutch bleeding valve and pressure bleeder - Page 34 of 34 -

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