2008 Toyota Tundra 4WD Brake Job: A Quick Job and Even Quicker Write-Up.

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Harry Lester
6 years ago
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FRONT BRAKES: 2008 Toyota Tundra 4WD Brake Job: A Quick Job and Even Quicker Write-Up. 1.

I had to replace all 4 rotors at 60K miles, so I just used a screwdriver to spread the pads apart and seat the

Didn't even remove the brake fluid reservoir cap.

1 FRONT BRAKES: 2008 Toyota Tundra 4WD Brake Job: A Quick Job and Even Quicker Write-Up. 1. Remove this bolt holding brake line bracket to the suspension. 2. I had to replace all 4 rotors at 60K miles, so I just used a screwdriver to spread the pads apart and seat the pistons back into their bores. Simple. No cracking open bleeders or any such nonsense. Didn't even remove the brake fluid reservoir cap. I'll have Toyota replace the brake fluid at their recommended service interval. Standard AutoZone replacement rotors with their DuraMax Gold Cmax ceramic pads were used here all the way 'round. 3. Remove the clip on the inner side of the caliper, that retains the guide rods.

4. Now remove those cheap rusted-in guide rods. Of course, I live in Wisconsin, so road salt does much damage here.

Spray them down with penetrating fluid, tap and twist until you make some progress.

Note how the anti-rattle spring is positioned before removing it. 5. Yank those old nasty pads out.

2 4. Now remove those cheap rusted-in guide rods. Of course, I live in Wisconsin, so road salt does much damage here. Some I had to pound out with a punch that was slightly smaller in diameter than the pin. Spray them down with penetrating fluid, tap and twist until you make some progress. Or cut them in half and pound them out from both directions if they are frozen in place beyond all hope. Note how the anti-rattle spring is positioned before removing it. 5. Yank those old nasty pads out. You can clean and reuse those nice stainless steel and rubber coated anti-squeal shims. Your new pads may also come with their own shims. The AutoZone DuraMax Gold Cmax ceramic's had a glued on rubber type anti-squeal pads, but I also re-used the factory shims. My factory pads containing the brake wear indicator squealer were located on the inner sides of the calipers, just as an FYI.

6. Remove the (2) 17mm bolts that attach the caliper to the suspension. 7.

Use a 5 gallon bucket to rest the caliper on, as well as small parts, tools

Use the old pads and a large C clamp if you need to seat them further than

3 6. Remove the (2) 17mm bolts that attach the caliper to the suspension. 7. Pull the caliper off the rotor. Use a 5 gallon bucket to rest the caliper on, as well as small parts, tools and a light. Now is the time to insure that all 4 pistons are fully retracted. Use the old pads and a large C clamp if you need to seat them further than the old screwdriver method shown earlier. They have a mind of their own, and each piston will move independently of the others.

8. Take your cleaning rod and old brush from your.

right?!), and clean the rust out of the 4 guide holes. 9. Try to remove the rotor.

Spray all the stud holes and other available holes in the rotor with penetrating fluid and let

There are also two 8mm threaded holes that you can screw two bolts into to evenly pry the rotors

very light film of grease to the mounting surface, so next time you won't have to curse as much.

4 8. Take your cleaning rod and old brush from your.22 caliber pistol cleaning kit (hey, you own a truck, so I just figure you got the guns too, am I right?!), and clean the rust out of the 4 guide holes. 9. Try to remove the rotor... yeah, that's right... it's rusted solid to the hub. Spray all the stud holes and other available holes in the rotor with penetrating fluid and let them sit. A rubber mallet can be put to good use here. There are also two 8mm threaded holes that you can screw two bolts into to evenly pry the rotors free. Now clean the rust off the wheel mounting flange of the hub and apply some anti-seize or very light film of grease to the mounting surface, so next time you won't have to curse as much. (location of the two 8mm threaded holes for bolts to press old rotor away from rusted hub.) 10. Put the new rotor on, and reverse the steps back until you get something that looks like this. **REMEMBER TO RE-INSTALL THAT BRAKE LINE BRACKET FROM STEP #1**.

REAR BRAKES: The rears are pretty self explanatory once you get in there. Plan on having a LARGE 1/2" breaker bar and tough 17mm socket for the bracket to suspension bolts.

Then remove the 2 caliper slide bolts, and remove the caliper off the rotor, rest it on the axle. 12.

It was just as fun as I thought it would be! 13. Ok, here is where you will notice the pictures stopped for some reason. So it's story time now.

5 REAR BRAKES: The rears are pretty self explanatory once you get in there. Plan on having a LARGE 1/2" breaker bar and tough 17mm socket for the bracket to suspension bolts. The caliper sliding bolts were not so bad. 11. Again use the old trusty screwdriver pry method to get the piston back into it's bore, before taking the caliper off. Then remove the 2 caliper slide bolts, and remove the caliper off the rotor, rest it on the axle. 12. I used this brake piston tool and an old pad to get the piston back in it's bore a little further. I just bought the tool, so I wanted to make use of it! It was just as fun as I thought it would be! 13. Ok, here is where you will notice the pictures stopped for some reason. So it's story time now. And it's also time to get that huge breaker bar and get those 2 bolts off that hold the caliper bracket to the suspension. Take the bracket over to the bench and replace all 4 stainless steel clips that the pad ears rest in. Do only one at a time and pay attention to how they are oriented. Remove any loose rust and apply a little lube where the pads ride against the bracket.

14. Spray and pray to get the rear rotors off as described in the front section. Don't wear yourself out with that rubber mallet, you are almost done! 15.

6 14. Spray and pray to get the rear rotors off as described in the front section. Don't wear yourself out with that rubber mallet, you are almost done! 15. Install new rotors, and reverse the procedure until you end up here. I was able to get the new rotors over the emergency brake shoes with little problem. Theoretically, you should have to adjust them in a little for the new rotor, but I hardly use my e-brake, so the adjustment was not an issue. Notes and Tips: As you may have guessed by now, I'm not a mechanic. I have rebuilt a few cars, but I'm not a certified wrench turner by any means. I wanted to do this brake job myself, and looked online for a write up to see if there was any weirdo new Toyota stuff that I could not do. I could not find any videos or good write-ups for a 2008, so I made this. There was no weirdo space age George Jetson mysterious Toyota stuff involved in this job, so go for it! I use PB Blaster to break through rust, it works well. Get a disc hardware kit for the front and rear, which will have new guide pins for the fronts, and new rubber boots and anti-rattle springs for the rears. The rear pads should come with new stainless antirattle clips that go into the caliper bracket, and so will the hardware kit, so you'll have spares in case you bent the sh*t out of a few trying to get them back into the caliper mounting bracket. Turn the front wheels all the way to the opposite side of the brake you are working on. The calipers are located towards the bottom rear of the rotor, so you'll have more room to work on them when they are swung out like this. Pay close attention to cleaning the surfaces where your pads slide against the caliper and/or caliper mounting brackets. Use a Scotch-Brite pad to remove rust, and lube lightly with disc brake lube to slow down rust and aid in free pad movement. Same goes for the new guide pins on the front calipers, and the cleaned-up slide pin/bolts in the rear calipers. Use a few hand tightened lug nuts to temporarily hold the new rotor flush against the hub while installing the caliper and new pads. Makes life easier, as most of us only have the two hands. Test rotate all 4 rotors after re-assembly, to insure there is no unusual drag, like from the emergency brake shoes, etc. Do only one wheel at a time, and get in the truck and slowly pump the brake after each wheel is completed, until you feel full pedal pressure again. Benefits: you always have one unmolested side for reference when putting the assembly back together, and the chance of running the truck through the garage back wall after the job is done will be minimized by keeping up with the pumping between corners. Do not over-torque the lug nuts and set yourself up for warped rotors so soon. I used 97ft/lbs.

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