JRSC + BBK Install on SVTF. Neil A. Shah medicnas on focaljet September 2006

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1 JRSC + BBK Install on SVTF Neil A. Shah medicnas on focaljet September 2006

2 ECU up here. When removing make sure the smaller bundles of wires don t get wrapped around the bottom edge and break - this almost happened to me. It s kind of a PITA to put back in place.

3 -Don t put the PS reservoir upside down mine leaked. -This tab takes some creative prying.

4 -5 as written

5 -6 as written

6 -7 as written (hose comes in bottom of airbox)

7 -8 as written (save for re-install)

8 -9 pull straight up hard

9 Unplug everything coming from this piece. I left the pass side wire that went under the intake connected but disconnected the one that went under the driver side of the intake (has a label on it). I also labeled some of the wires so I wouldn t mess up reinstalling them although that would take a special skill since the wires are just the right length.

10 -18, 19 as written. Don t lose the little clip that helps hold the throttle cable on!

11 -Install new MAF sensor if doing BBK kit, drop in K&N panel filter regardless.

12 -21 as written. It s the black hose on the underside of this. -22 this is the pulse damper, the vacuum tree attaches here. Follow this hose and detach as directed. SAVE for later.

13 Congrats, your car should now look this messed up.

14 23 insert your tool here. 24 this is the purge valve. Unplug these two big plugs 26 this is the hose in question. It slides onto a long plastic nipple on the purge valve 27 as written the hose is small.

15 28 as written 29 These are the coils. Maybe 6-8 inches below (toward the ground) this is the PCV connection. It s a rubber hose on a metal nipple you might need to cut the hose to get it off. Don t worry, you won t reuse this hose.

16 30 as written as written/shown 34 this is the steel loop bracket. It sucks. I wasn't able to get this loop bracket out until the alternator was out. It comes apart as 2 pieces and the piece that attaches the top to bottom of the bracket can only be accessed from underneath which isn't easy until the alt. is out.

17 35 39 as written. 40 Alternator power wire / wiring harness.

18 41 as written. 42 as shown. Idler pulley was removed will be reattached here

19 43 this stud has a nut 44 - So it turns out that you don't need to do this step to get the alternator in. If you seem my other posts you'll note that getting the freakin' oil filter in caused me some trouble, but as it turns out the newly reinstalled alternator had just rotated down - one push and it was out of my way and the oil filter went in well. I ended up rotating the oil cooler retainer nut only because I'd already bought the 27mm socket - but I'm pretty sure you don't need to do this to get the alt. to fit.

20 45 skip! Don't remove the starter! You can sneak all of the nuts into places as other have described by reaching one hand around the passenger side and lowering the nuts down with a magnet. 46 as written and illustrated. I d wait until you get the supercharger in so you understand which pipe to bend and how much. It will need to clear the pulley. 47 as written I used a 6" piece of heater hose (1/2 in ID). The 2" is just a bit too short. Mine is a bit longer, but it works just fine. (No picture on this page sorry)

21 47 51 as written 52 I left this attached, so I skipped this step. 53 This is the new alt. mount in place. The holes only match up correctly one way 54 bend this thing as close to straight down as possible. Once the SC is in you ll see it comes close to the pulley 55 as written 56 the lower alternator mount bolt goes through here. 57 consider connecting the power wire before bolting in the alt to the new mount because there isn t much give in the power wire

22 58 my hoses were blue. 59 these hoses were attached from the factory. All I had to do was lube here. I used Vaseline seemed to work fine. 60 as written. 61 the special studs will come from the SC and go here. They should slide down into the hole so that the gasket/sc are sitting right on the intake. The firewall may make this difficult just keep jiggling until the sc/bolts/gasket falls into place. 62 as written 63 the intake support bracket is a chunky two piece thing that comes with a bunch of bolts in it. I first bolted the bottom piece in, then bolted the top to the underside of the intake and finally tightened the remaining bolts. 64 I used my current oil filter and the car still started, go figure.

23 65 I d like to underscore the importance of matching up the curved bracket to the SC hole first this ensures that your alt will be correctly positioned and not hanging down like it was when I got to this part (and wasted a bunch of time subsequently) 66 as written, or you can do it in 56

24 67 These are the BBK injectors. Again note use of Vaseline to lube injectors. Make sure you have a circlip remover. This might be an odd tool for somebody to have. If you don't have one you might be able to get away with needle-nose pliers if the tips are small enough.

25 67 Pressure Damper. Fuel Pressure Sender. The new rail is ready to rock n roll.

26 68 as written. I had better luck putting the injectors into the intake and then putting the rail on top of them. There should be a satisfying clunk when the injector o-ring slips into place Spacers. Fuel inlet fitting" is the silver nipple on the driver side. If you put a socket/wrench on the 14? mm bolt on the end of the device it should give you enough leverage to break the fuel inlet fitting free. Just be careful if you're doing this with the FIs installed. I did it out of the car so I didn't break anything.

27 70 it clicks in just like you d imagine "throttle cable bracket" is in a bag marked "throttle cable bracket." it has one square and one circular hole (like the stock bracket). You'd think this is obvious, but I'm kind of dumb. As has been mentioned Illustration 15 is wrong. The printing is on the wrong side of the gasket in real life. Just make sure you line it up first. As a check open the TB when it's installed with the spacer and gasket and make sure you have a good clear opening with even margins.

28 72 as written 73 Here s the hose coming from the PCV fitting and going to the TB and purge valve 74 as written

29 75/76 - You might need to switch the 6, 8 and 11" pieces to make this work. The only thing that matters is getting the 90 degree bend on the vacuum tree that's different from the other 'softer' bends onto the inlet casting. The other 'softer' bends are too lose on the inlet nipple This is the boost take-off. I ended up taping mine over and kinking it. I'm not sure if I'll end up putting a boost gauge in, but if you're doing the BBK it won't get installed to the now-extraneous Power Card - make sure it's somehow plugged or it will be open to the atmosphere. 78 This was done from the factory.

30 79 Remember that clip? Find it to reinstall the throttle cable. Also, cover the throttle cable with the silicone hose that has a slit in in (not shown in this pic place hose so it covers this part). 80 as shown in manual. Don t attach it to the passenger fender yet.

31 81 Bracket to be oriented so it ends up like this. From the fender in towards the engine the order is: fender, new bracket, coolant reservoir. This is all screwed to the fender using the new, longer screw provided.

32 82 - I handled the P/S fluid like this: turned the reservoir over, removed clamps and tubing from bottom of reservoir, emptied reservoir into receptacle, dumped contents of hoses as best I could into receptacle, routed hoses down (this will lead to some spillage) and emptied them into the receptacle. If you get P/S fluid on the exhaust heat shield, for example, it will smoke when you start up the car - don't panic! As far as cutting the PS hoses, I cut both. The only thing I did differently was never disconnected the hose from the P/S pump. I left the hose in situ and did surgery on it there. The best thing I could suggest is to mount the empty reservoir and leave only as much hose as you need to get to it. I think that cutting the small hose is a good idea as you'd be left with a ton of it otherwise.

33 83 as written 84 - Oh man, this took like 2 hours. If you have an assistant then that would be great. What I ended up doing was routing the hose to everywhere but the belt idler pulley. Since this pulley has no side-wall it was easier to slide the belt onto it. To get slack in the system I used a clamp to hold a 15mm wrench that was connected to the belt tensioner. This was like a "second hand" and without something to hold the tensioner "in" the install wouldn't be possible. Alternatively I think you could use a steel pipe over the wrench and wedge something to keep it in place. 85 as written skipped if doing BBK

34 88 as written. Reinstall the ECU now if you did the BBK kit (otherwise turning the key will be anticlimactic). 89 as written. Note that you might hear a weird sound when you turn the ignition one click this is fuel repressurizing the line. Turn the car on. The car cranked maybe 6-8 times before it fired up. Congrats. Your car should now look like this:

35

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