R.L.W. Magnification such as Optivisor or Edroy Opticaid Flat file - Nicholson 6" Mill Bastard

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Griffin Gray
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Bachmann Fn3 model of Little River Lumber Co. Heisler was reference for creating patterns for this kit. (Model loaned by Bruce Hunt.) Roaring Camp & Big Trees No.

3 (right) (Tuolumne photo courtesy Roaring Camp & Big Trees Railroad) HISTORY: The Heisler locomotive was the last of the geared steam locomotives to hit the market, patented by Charles Heisler in

truck, and the outside rods transmitting power to the inboard axle in each truck. The Heisler was the fastest of the geared steam locomotives, but still had low-speed hauling capability.

1 Bachmann Fn3 model of Little River Lumber Co. Heisler was reference for creating patterns for this kit. (Model loaned by Bruce Hunt.) Roaring Camp & Big Trees No. 2 Tuolomne (left), formerly West Side Lumber Co. No. 3 (right) (Tuolumne photo courtesy Roaring Camp & Big Trees Railroad) HISTORY: The Heisler locomotive was the last of the geared steam locomotives to hit the market, patented by Charles Heisler in The distinguishing features of this locomotive are the 90-degree V-twin steam cylinder arrangement driving a centrally located drive shaft running to a gearbox on the outboard axle on each truck, and the outside rods transmitting power to the inboard axle in each truck. The Heisler was the fastest of the geared steam locomotives, but still had low-speed hauling capability. Of the 625 Heislers built between 1894 and 1941, 35 still exist, of which eight are operational, including the ex-west Side Lumber Co. No. 3 running on the Roaring Camp and Big Trees tourist railroad near Santa Cruz, California. Acknowledgements: Thanks to: Roaring Camp & Big Trees Railroad; V. Bruce Hunt (for loan of Bachmann Little River Fn3 Heisler) References: West Side Pictorial Mallory Hope Ferrell GENERAL: This is a craftsman kit consisting of cast lead-free pewter metal parts, etched nickel-silver parts, 3D printed acrylic plastic parts, brass wire and rod, brass screws, nuts and washers, Fox Valley wheels, turned brass crank pins, Micro Trains Line couplers and springs, clear plastic glazing material, and paper templates. The kit requires a PowerMAX 6.5mm gauge power truck, not included (available at ) The front truck is not powered in the basic kit. (See Parts Identification for images of included parts): Some castings may contain minor flash or small bubble holes. Otherwise good castings will NOT be rejected for small flaws; it is assumed the modeler will have the skill to file off or fill these small flaws. The 3D printed parts are an acrylic plastic; while strong, these are not as strong nor as flexible as the engineering plastic or styrene you may be used to working with. This kit is not intended for use by novice modelers, or individuals under the age of 18 without the supervision of an adult. Additionally, the modeler assumes all liability regarding the proper use of this product or any product suggested. The user must become familiar with the kit instructions, and instructions on any product used to complete this kit. Please read and follow all safety procedures for all products used to finish this kit including on all paint, chemical blackener, and adhesive containers. WARNING: Pursuant to California Health and Safety Code section , the manufacturer and distributor of this product warns you that this product may contain substances known by the state of California to cause cancer, birth defects and/or reproductive toxicity. Tools & Materials: Small drills: #80, #76 Magnification such as Optivisor or Edroy Opticaid Flat file - Nicholson 6" Mill Bastard Paint brushes and air-brush Small files - Micro Mark #83180 Paints see detailed instructions Model building knife Xacto or equal, with #11 blades Birchwood Casey Brass Black Fingernail clippers or Xuron flush rail cutter JAX Pewter Black Small Phillips and straight screwdrivers Rustall ( ) Tweezers and smooth-jawed needle-nose pliers Glues CA & two-part epoxy Soldering iron & solder Razor saw Micro Mark # nut driver Small smooth-jawed vice Broaches Micro-Tool BRO Locktite 2018 Republic Locomotive Works 2190 pg. 1

Optional: Pre-wired SMLEDs - Evemodel T0402WM (Amazon.

com Front Truck Drive Republic Locomotive Works Suggestions & Recommendations: These will appear

Parts Identification Metal Castings: Closed Tender Deck Closed Tender Rear Wall Open Right Side Open Roof

West Side Oil Bunker Generic Oil Bunker Rear Pilot Beam Front Pilot Beam Closed Roof Closed Right Side

2 Optional: Pre-wired SMLEDs - Evemodel T0402WM (Amazon.com) Zener diodes - Engineer & Fireman figures - LaBelle DCC Decoder ESU Lok Pilot Nano Standard SB4DCC.com Front Truck Drive Republic Locomotive Works Suggestions & Recommendations: These will appear throughout the instructions in red boxes. Parts Identification Metal Castings: Closed Tender Deck Closed Tender Rear Wall Open Right Side Open Roof Open Left Side Frame Boiler Rear Cover Plate Front Cover Plate Front Truck Rear Truck Bracket Open Tender West Side Oil Bunker Generic Oil Bunker Rear Pilot Beam Front Pilot Beam Closed Roof Closed Right Side Closed Left Side Two Cyl. Engine Smokebox front/ Headlight Stacks (2) Generator Bell Air Pump Number Plate Whistle Rear Headlight Duplex Steam Water Pump Air Tank Hose Reel West Side Roof Top Tool Boxes 2018 Republic Locomotive Works 2190 pg. 2

3D Printed Plastic Parts: Etched Parts: Rear Truck Wheel Centers Front Truck Wheel Centers Side Rods Steps Side Rods Handrail Stanchions Brake Rigging Other Also included are: 00-90 x 1/4 hex-head

3 3D Printed Plastic Parts: Etched Parts: Rear Truck Wheel Centers Front Truck Wheel Centers Side Rods Steps Side Rods Handrail Stanchions Brake Rigging Other Also included are: x 1/4 hex-head screw (1) x 1/4 flat head screws (4) washers (4) nut (1) 1-72 x 3/8 flat head screw (1) Crank pins (10) Insulating paper.040 hard brass wire (1 in.).019 hard brass wire (3 in.).012 brass wire (3 in.).010 brass wire (3 in.) Brass discs for back of headlights (3) Back-to-back wheel jig Fox Valley FVM 3301 wheel-sets (4) Micro Trains Line 902 couplers Working With Metal Castings All the metal parts should be handled with care as denting and breakage may occur if they are dropped. Take special care when removing parts from the sprus, cutting away from the part and filing back to the part. After you have completed the initial cleanup of parting lines, sprues and flash, wash all the castings in lacquer thinner, or denatured alcohol, and allow them to dry. Optionally, white metal (Pewter) castings can be chemically blackened using JAX Pewter Black, and brass wire can be chemically blackened with Birchwood Casey Brass Black. (Follow the manufacturers instructions.) Painting the metal castings can be accomplished with a brush or airbrush. It is suggested a base coat of MicroLux Engine Black be applied by airbrush. Working With 3d Printed Acrylic Plastic Parts West Side No. 3 Ladder Roof West Side Hatch No. Plate The 3D printed parts are an acrylic plastic. While strong, these are not as strong nor as flexible as the engineering plastic or styrene you may be used to working with. Carefully remove parts from attached sprues. Parts should be carefully washed with isopropyl alcohol before painting. Glue 3D printed parts together with CA adhesive. It is recommended that all the 3D parts be sprayed with an undercoat of flat black acrylic modeler s paint such as MicroLux Engine Black. These parts can have undercuts and recesses, so be sure the spray penetrates all areas Republic Locomotive Works 2190 pg. 3

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS After familiarizing yourself with the included parts, read through the

Assemble all the tools and materials you will require before starting.

Wheels Centers and Rods The front truck uses wheels from Fox Valley standard gauge wheel sets (four

Remove the insulated wheel from each wheel set and discard the noninsulated wheel and axle (or add to

040 (1mm) brass rod provided. Slightly chamfer the edges of the axle ends.

provided backto-back gauge between the wheels.

Cut away from the rim and file to the shape of the rim.

The ones with a hole in the center are used on the front truck.

Eye-ball the quartering at this time we ll fine tune it later.

File the back of the wheel where the drill exits smooth.

4 ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS After familiarizing yourself with the included parts, read through the instructions from start to finish before beginning to assemble the kit. Assemble all the tools and materials you will require before starting. Have the reference photos of your prototype handy. Wheels Centers and Rods The front truck uses wheels from Fox Valley standard gauge wheel sets (four included). Remove the insulated wheel from each wheel set and discard the noninsulated wheel and axle (or add to you stash of leftover parts you may use someday.) Cut two.340 front axles from the.040 (1mm) brass rod provided. Slightly chamfer the edges of the axle ends. Press the wheels on the axle using uniform pressure between the faces of a model-making vice with the provided backto-back gauge between the wheels. Carefully cut the spru attachment to remove the driver center from the main spru. Cut away from the rim and file to the shape of the rim. CAUTION: THE 3D PRINT IS FRAGILE; ONLY ONE EXTRA FRONT AND ONE EXTRA REAR CENTER IS PROVIDED. The ones with a hole in the center are used on the front truck. Glue a center in each wheel with a small drop of CA adhesive. Eye-ball the quartering at this time we ll fine tune it later. Using the back-to-back jig as a support, drill through each wheel with a #76 drill. File the back of the wheel where the drill exits smooth. Cut the provided quartering jig from the laser-cut fret with a sharp modeling knife. Assemble as shown; you may glue the joints if desired. Slip a short length of.020 brass wire in both holes on a wheel set and sit it in the quartering jig. Remove and twist one wheel as required until both brass wires rest against the edges of the jig. Repeat for the other wheel set. WARNING: PowerMAX axles are not knurled and wheels may rotate on axle; if wheel turns too easily, set with adhesive or Locktite. Paint the wheel centers before installing rods; suggest base coat of MicroLux Engine Black followed by dry-brushing with Weathered Black or Vallejo NATO Black Republic Locomotive Works 2190 pg. 4

While still supporting the wheelset in the back-to-back jig, put a crank pin in one end of one of the F side rods, hold it over the hole in the wheel, and lightly press it in the hole.

) Remove the jig and complete the installation by squeezing the wheel and crank pin between the jaws of a set of smooth-jawed pliers.

Remove the wheel-sets from the PowerMAX truck (Note: removal of the cover plate and wheel-sets may void the manufacturer s warranty.

If this happens, remove the wheel, lightly knurl with the edge of a file, and replace the wheel, or glue the wheel to the axle. Front Truck Assembly Tap the holes indicated with an 00-90 tap.

Trial fit the wheel-sets into the front truck castings and check for clearance at the brake shoes; file if necessary.

Assemble the front truck as shown using 00-90 x 3/16 screws, capturing the coupler and spring in the process. Trim the screws using a flush cutter or straight fingernail clippers.

5 While still supporting the wheelset in the back-to-back jig, put a crank pin in one end of one of the F side rods, hold it over the hole in the wheel, and lightly press it in the hole. (Check fit of crank pin first; LIGHTLY ream hole if necessary for snug but operable fit.) Remove the jig and complete the installation by squeezing the wheel and crank pin between the jaws of a set of smooth-jawed pliers. DO NOT SQUEEZE TOO MUCH; the rod should be a loose fit on the crank pin. Do the same for the second wheel-set. Remove the wheel-sets from the PowerMAX truck (Note: removal of the cover plate and wheel-sets may void the manufacturer s warranty.) Repeat the steps above using the R side rods, but without the use of the back-to-back jig. Note: PowerMAX axle ends are not knurled, and wheel can potentially rotate on the axle. If this happens, remove the wheel, lightly knurl with the edge of a file, and replace the wheel, or glue the wheel to the axle. Front Truck Assembly Tap the holes indicated with an tap. It is suggested the rods and crank pins be chemically blackened with Birchwood Casey Brass Black, then rubbed with fingertips; this results in a burned steel finish. Trial fit the wheel-sets into the front truck castings and check for clearance at the brake shoes; file if necessary. Remove the wheel-sets and glue insulating paper on each side of the truck castings with CA glue where the backs of the wheels may contact it in corners. Assemble the front truck as shown using x 3/16 screws, capturing the coupler and spring in the process. Trim the screws using a flush cutter or straight fingernail clippers. If the axles bind in the axle slots when the cover plate screws are tightened, disassemble and LIGHTLY file the slot with a small round file. Oil and reassemble and place the truck on a track and run back and forth to assure it runs smoothly. If the rods bind, slight twist one wheel to adjust quartering until truck will roll on its own when the track is held at a slope. Trim over-long screws with a flush cut nipper or finger nail clippers and file end smooth and flush with casting Even with a smooth-running truck, small track irregularities can cause the wheels of the front truck to stop rolling, resulting in the rear truck pushing the front truck along like a sled. To prevent this (or reduce the possibility of it happening) it is suggested you add a THIN layer of a nonslip liquid coating such as Bullfrog Snot. If you do so, DO NOT APPLY TO THE WHEEL FLANGE as this will induce derailments. Bullfrog Snot 2018 Republic Locomotive Works 2190 pg. 5

PowerMAX Truck Assembly The 00-90 hex-head screw fits into the Z-bracket which will be mounted to the PowerMAX using the two screws that come with the PowerMAX.

It does not need to fit flush - place the bracket upside down on a flat hard surface with a hole or gap in it (such as on top of a slightly open vice) and press the screw down

Electrical Modifications: It is recommended any anticipated modifications to the PowerMAX to accommodate lighting or DCC be initiated before proceeding with the assembly of the

For DC with LED headlights, the electrical circuit below is recommended. The diodes should be installed as shown below, which is within the cab space.

) Install the Z-bracket using the two Phillips head screws provided with the PowerMAX.

6 PowerMAX Truck Assembly The hex-head screw fits into the Z-bracket which will be mounted to the PowerMAX using the two screws that come with the PowerMAX. It may be necessary to clean out the hexagonal hole on the bottom of the bracket for a snug fit of the screw head. It does not need to fit flush - place the bracket upside down on a flat hard surface with a hole or gap in it (such as on top of a slightly open vice) and press the screw down snugly into the hex-shaped hole. Add CA adhesive, and when fully cured, file the head of the screw flush with the pewter bracket. Electrical Modifications: It is recommended any anticipated modifications to the PowerMAX to accommodate lighting or DCC be initiated before proceeding with the assembly of the rear truck. For DCC, unsolder the pick-up wires at the back of the motor and follow the DCC manufacturer s instructions for installing the decoder. For DC with LED headlights, the electrical circuit below is recommended. The diodes should be installed as shown below, which is within the cab space. PMAX screws Z-bracket MTL coupler and spring Remove the cover plate from the PowerMAX. (Note: This may void the PowerMAX manufacturer s warranty.) Install the Z-bracket using the two Phillips head screws provided with the PowerMAX. Install the drivers taking care not to displace the wheel wipers in their slot on the chassis. Install the Heisler cover plate checking for interference between wheel flanges and the brake shoes. Correct if found, then attach using the two Phillips head screws provided with the PowerMAX. Insert the MTL coupler and spring securing with a x 1/8 flat head screw. Test run the assembly. Assembled driver set PMAX screws Heisler cover plate Republic Locomotive Works 2190 pg. 6

Superstructure Assembly Optional: Chemically blacken the pewter parts with JAX Pewter Black:

com/shop/jax-pewter-black/ These instructions will cover the assembly of a closed cab version of the

significantly weaker, and the basic instructions will indicate where the locomotive frame must be

Begin with the assembly of the cab as shown at the right; this can be done by soldering or with CA

(The cast steps are fragile; if broken, etched nickel silver steps are included which can be used in

Attach the cab to the frame using CA Gluing the rear pilot beam (the one with the sand pipes) to

necessary, as seen in the construction photos. OPTIONAL: If modeling West Side No.

dental burr in a motor tool; polish smooth. Cut a notch in the cab side as shown.

Also use a dental burr in a motor tool to remove the water hatch.

frame rails. Note that valve rods face forward.

For modeling an open-cab Heisler, glue or solder the one-piece fuel and water tender to the frame,

7 Superstructure Assembly Optional: Chemically blacken the pewter parts with JAX Pewter Black: These instructions will cover the assembly of a closed cab version of the Heisler; parts are included for an open cab version as well, but the structure of that version is significantly weaker, and the basic instructions will indicate where the locomotive frame must be reinforced. Begin with the assembly of the cab as shown at the right; this can be done by soldering or with CA adhesive. (The cast steps are fragile; if broken, etched nickel silver steps are included which can be used in their place.) Test fit the frame inside the cab and file to fit as necessary. Attach the cab to the frame using CA adhesive. Gluing the rear pilot beam (the one with the sand pipes) to the rear of the frame before attaching the cab will make attaching the cab easier, but is not necessary, as seen in the construction photos. OPTIONAL: If modeling West Side No. 3, remove the ladder rungs on each side of the cab with a chisel blade modeling knife, file, or dental burr in a motor tool; polish smooth. Cut a notch in the cab side as shown. Scribe a vertical line from the notch down to the bottom of the side as shown. Also use a dental burr in a motor tool to remove the water hatch. scribe Test fit the twocylinder engine to the frame filing as necessary so engine sits down between frame rails. Note that valve rods face forward. Glue in place with CA adhesive. Tap the hole in the front saddle for a 1-72 screw. For modeling an open-cab Heisler, glue or solder the one-piece fuel and water tender to the frame, followed by adding the twocylinder engine and the boiler. Then glue or solder the two cab sides and roof in place. (Note: You may want to leave the roof off for now if fitting DCC.) Note: If you operate on tight radius track, you may need to provide more clearance for the front of the PowerMAX by grinding or filing away some of the inside of the Heisler frame. This can weaken the open-cab version. Add strip brass or Code 40 rail reinforcing to the outside of the frame from the rear pilot beam to the front of the cab Republic Locomotive Works 2190 pg. 7

Fit the boiler casting to the frame and cab, filing as

side walls, and the front of the boiler sits down tight in the

file.) Attach both front and rear pilot beams (if not already

012 brass wire and glue to the front of the boiler castings

casting HEADLIGHT WIRING (Optional): Coat a pre-wired 0402

headlight opening on the smokebox casting.

headlight with CA adhesive then test the assembly to assure the

Glue the smokebox front in place routing the wires back into

Truss Rods: Bend.019 brass wire to form the two truss rods.

8 Fit the boiler casting to the frame and cab, filing as required; assure the front wall of the cab aligns with the cab side walls, and the front of the boiler sits down tight in the saddle (file the top of the engine if necessary with a round file.) Attach both front and rear pilot beams (if not already installed.) Bend a 3/4 length of.012 brass wire and glue to the front of the boiler castings with the ends in the holes in the pilot deck. casting HEADLIGHT WIRING (Optional): Coat a pre-wired 0402 SMLED with CA adhesive and after dry install the LED in the headlight opening on the smokebox casting. Glue one of the punched brass discs on the back of the headlight with CA adhesive then test the assembly to assure the light works. Glue the smokebox front in place routing the wires back into the cab as shown. See previous wiring diagram for connections. Truss Rods: Bend.019 brass wire to form the two truss rods., and glue in place in the sockets (front), slot in the queen post (middle) and the notch in the frame (rear). Note that the truss rod needs to be splayed out to clear the PowerMAX 2018 Republic Locomotive Works 2190 pg. 8

Basic Heisler Assembly Attach front truck with the 1-72 screw you previously trimmed to length. Place 00-90 washer over threaded stud on PowerMAX and insert up through hole in top of tender.

When loco is level, add a 00-90 washer and 00-90 nut to the stud to secure the PowerMAX.

You will add some Locktite later, but for now leave it finger-tight until testing is done.

counterweights. Fit the short rod ends into the dimples in each end of the brake cylinder, and fix with adhesive. The front brake rod should run up to but not touch the front truck.

9 Basic Heisler Assembly Attach front truck with the 1-72 screw you previously trimmed to length. Place washer over threaded stud on PowerMAX and insert up through hole in top of tender. Place loco on track and check to assure it is level. You may need to remove the washer to get the loco level since the white metal Z-bracket can sometimes bend during construction. When loco is level, add a washer and nut to the stud to secure the PowerMAX. Run the nut up just tight enough to take the slop out of the mounting, but not enough to restrict sideto-side motion. Trim to length with a flush-cut nipper or fingernail clipper. You will add some Locktite later, but for now leave it finger-tight until testing is done nut flat washer Superstructure flat washer PowerMAX Front truck 1-72 screw Brake Rigging: Slightly bend the etch for the brake rigging into an arc that will clear the crankshaft counterweights. Fit the short rod ends into the dimples in each end of the brake cylinder, and fix with adhesive. The front brake rod should run up to but not touch the front truck. Trim the rear rod part of the etching off flush with the lever and solder on a short length of.012 brass wire long enough to just almost touch the PowerMAX gear. Appliances and Details Test-fit.012 brass wire to the handrail stanchions and ream the holes if necessary for a proper fit. Drill No. 80 holes for grabs and handrails at locations appropriate to the locomotive you are modeling. (See handrail comments in Heisler Examples next page.) It is suggested you chemically blacken the brass wire used for these details and piping prior to installing on the locomotive. Note there are two different styles of fuel oil bunkers included. The kit includes a variety of typical appliances (equipment and hardware attached to the locomotive for various functions.) Review photographs and drawings of the specific Heisler you are modeling to select and locate these. Drawings are included in HEISLER EXAMPLES on following page for three of many configurations which can be produced with the included parts. Holes are provided for the generator and bell, but these can be filled and these items located elsewhere if appropriate. Rather than just gluing surface-applied details in place, it is recommended you supplement adhesive with a mechanical fastening such as pinning parts to the locomotive with small bits of brass wire. This greatly improves the chance parts will not be dislodged during regular use of the model. air tank hose reel (No.2) water pump (No.2) diamond stack straight stack generator tool boxes (No.3) bell air pump number plate whistle rear headlight 2018 Republic Locomotive Works 2190 pg. 9

Painting and Finishing First, either remove the PowerMAX and front truck, or carefully mask the wheels on both trucks.

10 TIP: Drill a #80 hole all the way through the air pump at two locations, then insert wire pipe completely through. Attach pump to locomotive, bend wire as appropriate and attach at cab end, then bend and route pipe forward as appropriate to locomotive being modeled. Painting and Finishing First, either remove the PowerMAX and front truck, or carefully mask the wheels on both trucks. Masking may be accomplished by slitting and inserting paper shields over the trucks. Also, be sure and mask the headlights with a dot of masking tape. It is suggested painting be done by airbrush, with the first coat being Microlux Engine Black. After the basic black is dry (leave overnight) mix Vallejo flat Aluminum with Vallejo NATO Black to create a graphite hot surface paint, and brush paint the smokebox and firebox. Add decals at this time, applying a coat of gloss finish to areas to receive decals and letting the finish dry before applying the decals. Follow this with a coast of Testor s Dullcote. After this dries, airbrush a weathered black (dark gray) very lightly from above, highlighting the tops of all features. If additional highlighting is desired, use a dry brush technique. It is suggested a drop or two of Rustall be applied to the smokebox and firebox to simulate the inevitable rust that shows on these hot surfaces even on wellmaintained locomotives. Additional weathering may be added using Bragdon chalks. Cut and add glazing in the cab and headlights. Also, add crew figures at this time, then glue the cab roof in place. (Alternative: You can drill and countersink a hole in the cab roof hatch area and then drill and tap an hole in the top of the boiler inside the cab for a removable cab roof and cover the screw with the etched roof hatch.) Heisler Examples As noted above, numerous castings are provided allowing the modeler to replicate the features of a specific prototype, or customize their Heisler to suit their own pike s needs. Below are three examples, not necessarily accurately reproducing a particular prototype, but incorporating specific defining features creating a reasonable facsimile. NOTE: Locations of stanchions and handrails often varied over the life of a locomotive; review photos of the loco you are modeling. whistle bell straight generator stack handrail stanchion standard fuel bunker optional air tank Generic Heisler based on Bachmann Fn3 model, oil fired; use diamond stack and wood load in lieu of oil bunker for wood-fired loco and fabricate railing around tender from provided etched ladder stock. whistle bell straight generator stack air pump rooftop peaked top handrail (left side only) tool boxes fuel bunker air pump (on other side in some photos) ladder West Side Lumber Co. No. 3 (Note: Locomotive frame in this kit is not accurate for No. 3) 2018 Republic Locomotive Works 2190 pg. 10

3 plus hose reel and water pump as seen on Roaring Camp & Big Trees No.

11 whistle bell straight stack handrail handrail peaked top fuel bunker hose reel steam water pump Roaring Camp & Big Trees Railroad No. 2 Tuolomne (Note: Locomotive frame in this kit is not accurate for No. 2) air pump generator ladder Freelance Model combining features of West Side No. 3 plus hose reel and water pump as seen on Roaring Camp & Big Trees No. 2 (bottom, after weathering with Rustall & Bragdon chalks) For assistance in assembly or interpretation of instructions, contact: info@trknappmodelengineering.com For all other enquiries: Republic Locomotive Works 16 Little Cape Horn, Cathlamet, WA rev Republic Locomotive Works 2190 pg. 11

INSTRUCTIONS FOR NYC K-11 PACIFIC KIT #100200

INSTRUCTIONS FOR NYC K-11 PACIFIC 4-6-2 KIT #100200 These instructions provide photographs of completed model, exploded-view drawings, diagrams, step-by-step instructions and an itemized parts list. If