EF Falcon Dash Modifications:

Transcription

1 EF Falcon Dash Modifications: Little could we or anybody else judge the reaction we would receive to running an article on a certain EF Fairmont Ghia in our EF Visitors Cars section! Time and time again we received countless requests for information on how to complete the same 'neon' dash treatment. Fortunately for all who requested this information, Matthew isn't shy of sharing his technique around so with no further mucking around, I introduce 'EF Falcon Dash Modifications' (imagine a big booming voice and subsequent echos here)... WARNING: The following modification should only be attempted by persons of sufficient experience in automotive electrical modifications and soldering techniques. Neither Falcon/Fairlane/LTD ( or the author (Matthew) take any responsibility for any actions taken as a response to reading this document and strongly recommend gaining professional assistance if you feel this is at all beyond your capabilities. Suitability: Your first job, before even considering pulling the dash apart, is to figure out whether or not your dash will allow this modification. Suitability is dependant on how your dash produces it's current hue. All dashes lit using white light pass this first critical test - dashes using other colours will depend on how the

2 colour is produced. If your dash uses coloured or colour capped globes you can pass on to the next criteria - ones using coloured filters built into the dash are more difficult to convert and modifications may be restricted to a brighter shade of the current colour. If a filter is used, then the shade can still be changed slightly. I was able to do this with the orange instrumentation on the EF (I.E. the odometer, clock readout, and climate control temperature readout). Orange can be changed to yellow, or a dark red, using either a yellow or red LED. Please note: Falcons (EF, EL), Fairmonts, Fairlanes, LTDs, XR6s and XR8s manufactured from 1995 onwards are all similar and therefore suitable for this modification (EF Falcon, NF Fairlane, DF LTD onwards). This also includes the EF series 1 of 1994 but not the ED, EB, EA etc which contain orange plastic as their dash backing material (onto which the instrument markings are painted onto) making the dash board light up an orange colour. Determining the number of LED's required: To determine the number of LED's required, for EF/EL, DF/DL and NF/NL models, count the following options and add up the number of LEDs required. 1 - Ashtray lamp (Cannot use bulb holder) 1 - Trip Computer. 1 - Power Antennae switch (Cannot use bulb holder). 1 - Rear Window demister switch (Cannot use Bulb Holder). 1 - Power / economy switch for column mounted auto transmissions (Cannot use Bulb holder). 6 - Climate control system (mid, High Series) (Cannot use Bulb Holder). 6 - Standard Heater / aircon system (low series) (Cannot use bulb holder). 6 - All Instrument panels, (Low, Mid, High Series). Purchasing the required items: Next on the list of things to do is to get out there and actually purchase the required LED's, Resistors, Heat shrink tubing and Bulb Holders (if required). Note for each LED required, you will need about 5cm of heat shrink tubing, 1 resistor (see calculations below for correct rating) and depending on the device, one bulb holder. These may all be purchased from the following location - Jaycar Electronics - or at your local electronics store. The following prices and catalogue details were current as of August please check with your local supplier at the time of purchase: BLUE High Intensity LED 4000mcd, $7.80 cat ZD-1781 RED High Intensity LED 6500mcd, $2.10 cat ZD-1777

3 White High Intensity LED 6000mcd, $7.80 cat ZD-1780 Yellow High Intensity LED 5000mcd, $1.25 cat ZD-1788 Green High Intensity LED 6000mcd, $7.80 cat ZD-1779 Resistors 560 * Ohm 1% Tolerance (Pack of 8) $0.38 cat RR-0566 *Note: the above resistor rating will alter depending on the colour LED chosen and the it's specific power consumption details. Heat shrink Tubing 5mm dia, 1.2m long $1.95 cat WH-5533 In addition to these items you will need the following tools: 1 Soldering iron (Around 20 Watts) and solder. 1 Phillips Head screwdriver. Pliers. (For removing bulb holders). Wire Cutters. Resistor Calculations: As the specific power consumption ratings per LED will vary per manufacturer as well as for different colours, it is important you obtain the correct resistor to balance your LED's voltage requirement or you'll go from hero to zero in pop! And that's not to mention the potential damage to your dash either - so make sure you get it right or wear the consequences! The Original FoMoCo Bulbs used in the dash were of the following ratings: Instrument Panel Quantity: Volts: Power Rating: 6 12 V 0.5 Watt 40mA Climate Control 2 12 V 2.0 Watt 160mA Switches 1 12 V 0.5 Watt 40mA Trip Computer/Clock 1 12 V 0.5 Watt 40mA Amperage: Now for the LED information (as used in this particular conversion - please obtain the appropriate information regarding the LED's you have purchased at the time of buying): 3.6 Volts 20ma Watts This info is for the Blue (4000mcd), White (6000mcd), and Green (6000mcd) LEDs.

4 2.0 Volts 20ma 0.04 Watts This info is for the Red(6500mcd) and Yellow(5000mcd) LEDs. The resistors used are rated at 0.5Watts (Metal Film Mini Size 1% tolerance). As you can see, LEDs have a much lower power usage than light globes, meaning they place less stress on the cars electrical system. They are also much more efficient in converting electrical energy to light than a light bulb. Because of the low wattage, there is no noticeable change in temperature with the resistors if specified correctly. The calculation for the resistors are as follows: R = (V-LEDVolts)*1000/I where R = The Resistor Value in Ohms V is the Supply Voltage (The Vehicles Operating Voltage) I is the Resistor Supply Current in Milliamps. So for the above LEDs (High Brightness Green, White & Blue versions), we use the following values: V = 15 Volts (I chose 15 just in case the vehicles voltage regulator dies). The vehicle voltage can get up to 16 Volts, if the regulator fails, and most auto equipment is designed to handle this voltage. I chose 15 Volts though, because LED's can handle a 10% Current/Voltage variation, meaning 10% x 15V = 16.5V. Well within our required limits. (Blowing a few LEDs would be the least of our worries if the cars Voltage was this high!!!) So the formula looks like this: R = (15-3.6)*1000/20 R = (11.4)*1000/20 R = 11.4 * 50 R = 570 Ohms In this example, because a 570 Resistor Value was not available, the value of 560 Ohms was selected because it was the closest value available. For the RED and Yellow LED's we use the following: R = (15-2.0)*1000/20 R = (13.0)*1000/20 R = 13.0 * 50 R = 650 Ohms

5 In this example, because a 650 Resistor Value was not available, the value was 620 was selected because it was the closest value available. Basically, the lower the resistor value, the brighter the LED will become, but the margin for poor voltage regulation becomes less. If the LEDs you purchase are at all different to those mentioned above in specification, you will need to go through these calculations yourself to ensure the correct resistor is used. Introduction to LED technology: As most of you will know, LED's are not a new invention by any means - however there continues to be new applications and variations on the theme almost every day. LEDs (stands for 'Light Emitting Diode') have many advantages over a standard light globe including a much lower power consumption (hence the need for a resistor to be used in this situation) and longer life due to the lack of a fragile filament. They are however, extremely directional in their light beam and only flow electricity in one direction - hence the need to get their polarity correct. One advantage that is seeing more and more LED's used in tail lights of vehicles across the world is in their much quicker response time to being switched on - barely perceptible to the naked eye but apparently enough of a difference to make the change worth while. None of which matters a brass razoo when it comes to applying this tech to your dash board! WARNING: In the following disassembly procedure, great care must be taken not to contact any exposed circuit boards other than the lighting circuit mentioned. These are extremely delicate and subject to damage via static electricity discharge - you've been warned! Dismantling EF/EL Dash: To gain access to the Instrument Panel, Climate Control and Clock/Trip Computer, you will need to dismantle the dashboard to reach the back lighting on these components. Make sure you bag and label each component as it comes off (make sure you include all screws - no matter how small) as assembly will be made all the more harder by not being able to find the correct parts at the correct time!

6 1. Remove the ashtray. 2. To the left of the ashtray, there is one screw - remove this screw. 3. The radio shroud should swing upwards from the top. Swing the shroud 45 degrees upwards and remove the cigarette lighter plug by squeezing the Figure 1 top clip and pulling on the socket. Also remove the cigarette lighter lamp by twisting the plug 90 degrees anticlockwise. 4. Remove the radio shroud by pulling it towards you. - See figure Remove the two Phillips head screws located above the Radio. 6. Remove the 3 Figure 2 Screws located above the instrument panel. 7. Remove the screw located beneath the Door Unlock Switch on the dash board. 8. Remove the screw located beneath the Fuel Flap Release switch. 9. Pull the main Dash Panel away from the Dash. There are 3 clips located Figure 3

7 at the top of this panel and 1 clip located near the door unlock switch. It is normal for this part to require some force but be careful still. 10. Once the clips have disengaged, lift the panel upwards so as the two tabs located near the Shift console are disengaged. 11. Unplug the clock by squeezing the connectors tab, and pulling it away from the clock (If applicable). 12. Unplug the switches (Antennae Height Adjust, Rear Window Demister, Door Lock/Unlock, Boot Release, Fuel Flap Release) Please note: with the exception of the Fuel Flap release and Boot release switches, all the plugs are keyed so as to make it impossible to connect the wrong plugs to the wrong switches. 13. Remove the Main Panel as per figure Remove the Climate Control / Heater Control Assembly. (4

8 Screws, 2 electrical connectors, Vacuum lines and Temperature rod). Note: make sure you mark which vacuum hose goes where! 15. Remove the Instrument Panel (4 Screws, 2 connectors) as per Figure 3. Heater / Air conditioner / Climate Control: This device requires 6 LEDs to complete. 1. Cut the longer leg of the LED about 5mm from the top of the LED. 2. Cut one side of a resistor approximately 5mm from the resistor body. Keep the cut portion of the Resistor for later use. 3. Solder the cut leg of the resistor to the cut leg of the LED. Use pliers, or a paper clip to assist you whilst completing this step - see figure 4 for details. 4. Solder the discarded leg of the resistor to the short leg of the LED (that is, the leg you didn't cut) - see figure 5. for further details. 5. Cut approximately 4cm of heat shrink tubing, and apply to the resistor leg of the LED. 6. Complete the above procedure for 5 more Figure 4 Figure 5

9 LEDs. 7. Solder the ends of 3 LEDs together, connecting the resistor legs together, and then the non-resistor legs creating 2 sets of 3 LEDs. 8. Insert the 2 legs in to the white bulb holders and test the LED assembly by turning on the car's parking lights (it's a damn sight easier to fix a dud set now than after you've installed the dash back in position!) If the LED's do not light, then swap the legs and try again. 9. If the LED's light, then solder the legs in to place. Instrument panel: The instrument panel requires 6 LEDs, 6 resistors, 12cm of Heat shrink tubing and 6 bulb holders all up.

10 1. Cut the longer leg of the LED about 5mm from the top of the LED. 2. Cut one side of the resistor approximately 5mm from the resistor body. 3. Solder the Cut Leg of the Resistor to the Cut Leg of the LED. Use pliers, or a paper clip to hold the LED and Resistor together whilst completing this step. 4. Cut 1cm of heat shrink tubing and cover the resistor leg of the LED, from the LED to the end of the resistor. 5. Bend the legs of the resistor upward, so as the legs can be soldered to the bulb holder tabs, near the LED body. 6. Press the LED inside the Bulb holder, so as the resistor sits inside the bulb holder, with the LED sitting flush with the top of the bulb holder. 7. Examine the LED, look for the cup side of the LED. Mark the Bulb Holder with a black marker on the Cup side of the LED. (The Cup side of the LED must be connected to ground, or the Negative side of bulb holder). 8. Complete the above procedure for 5 more LED's. 9. Replace the Existing 6 bulb

11 holders on the Instrument Panel with the newly created LED bulb holders. (These are the white bulb holders in the picture opposite). Align the black mark you put on on the new bulb holders earlier with the following positions: o the 2 Bulb Holders near top of the Instrument Panel, with the black marker pointing upwards. o the 2 Bulb holders at left and right extremes of the Dash, with the black marker facing outwards. o the 2 Bulb holders near bottom of the Instrument Panel, with the black marker pointing upwards. Clock and Trip Computer The combined clock / trip computer (where fitted) requires 1 LED, 1 resistor, 2cm of heat shrink tubing and 1 bulb holder. The method is very similar to the Instrument Panel specified above. 1. Cut the longer leg of the LED about 5mm from the top of the LED. 2. Cut one side of a resistor approximately 5mm from the resistor body. 3. Solder the cut leg of the resistor to the cut leg of the LED. Use pliers or a paper clip to hold the LED and resistor together whilst completing this step. 4. Cut 1cm of heat shrink tubing and cover the resistor leg of the LED, from the LED body to the end of the resistor. 5. Bend the legs of the resistor as shown in figure x. 6. Press the LED into the bulb holder, so as the resistor sits inside the Bulb Holder and the LED sits flush with the Bulb Holder - see figure x for more details. 7. Examining the LED, identify the cup side of the LED. Mark the Bulb Holder with a black marker on the cup side of the LED. (The cup side of the LED must be connected to ground or the Negative side of the bulb holder). 8. Replace the existing bulb holder with the newly created LED bulb holder. Align the black mark on the bulb holder so as the black mark is facing towards the outside of the Clock / Trip computer.

12 Other Q & A's: Static Electricity: - I have heard that with many of these late model vehicles, great care must be taken to ensure insulation and correct grounding of static electricity occurs or low voltage intricate circuits can be fried. Do any such restrictions or considerations apply to the above proces No - basically because light bulbs are considered to be user serviceable parts and because we are soldering the LEDs on to the bulb holders, away from the static sensitive devices. There is minimal risk of damaging anything in terms of static electricity. There is the possibility if you are physically dealing with the circuit boards directly. (This could be the case if the Trip computer on the EF/EL is removed from its shroud, an easy thing to do since the shroud is only a snap on arrangement) In terms of the Climate Control, the Bulb Holders are not electrically connected to the Climate Control Module, so again there is no risk of damaging the Climate Control Module when soldering the LEDs on to the Bulb Holder(s). - What do you mean by 'cup side of the LED'? The cup side of the LED is the Cathode side. (The side that connects to the Negative/Ground side of Power). The cathode side of the LED can be determined by one of the following methods: 1. Visibly Looking at inside the LED. There is a Cup connected to one leg, and on the other leg a small wire that leads into the Cup. The Cup is the Negative side. 2. Look for the Notch on side of the LED. The LED should be round, but normally next to one of the Legs, the plastic edge of the LED is visibly flattened. This is the Cathode side of the LED (Positive power). 3. Finally the longer leg of the LED is the Cathode side of the LED.

13 I have given all three descriptions because sometimes the LED legs can be cut to equal lengths, the shaved edge may be hard to find or it may be difficult to see the Cup inside the LED. Any advice on using heat shrink - i.e - in not getting the LED too hot? The safest way is to use a hairdryer, or if not that by briefly rubbing the heat shrink for a period of three seconds with a soldering iron then waiting 10 seconds for the Heat shrink to cool. If using the soldering iron, it will be necessary to evenly heat all area's of the heat shrink, as the soldering iron will concentrate it heat in 1 very small area. A hairdryer does not have this problem, but will take much more time to completely shrink the tubing around the resistor. How do the dash bulb holders come out of the instrument panel? (pull, twist or combination?) The Bulb holders are removed by twisting them 90* anticlockwise, then by pulling them out. On the globe holder, which side is the negative terminal? Basically, the LED can be soldered in to the bulb holder in any direction. It is only when the bulb holder is inserted into the Instrument Panel with the LED in place, that the correct orientation becomes important. It needs to be inserted so as the negative side of the LED contacts the Negative power from the Dash. The best way to ensure this is to place a black dot on the side of the bulb holder, where the cup side of the LED is soldered. This black dot should line up with the positions that I described earlier in the document. If the LED is inserted

14 in the wrong direction, the worst thing than can happen is that that LED will not light up. The quick fix of course is to rotate the bulb holder 180 degrees, virtually swapping the Positive and Negative connectors on the LED. For this reason test the LED's in the instrument panel before bolting the Panel back together. (I.E. plug the Instrument Cluster in to the car's wiring loom, and switch the lights on.) I know this sounds like a stupid thing to do, but you would be surprised how many I times I got caught out with this one - having bolted the dash back together before realising that I had forgotten to complete one step along the way! How well do the LEDs work in with the normally in-built dimming devices included in low series Falcons (GLi, Forte, Futura, XR) and high series (Fairmont, Ghia, Fairlane, LTD)? The LED's work with the Dash dimming circuit, on both the low series in line resistor base (Bright/Dim) and the High series BEM - Variable Dimming. The amount of dimming is the same as with light bulbs, with the exception that the LED's are brighter than the standard Bulbs. (Roughly about 20% Brighter). On the Fairmont, with the dimmer all the way down, you could only just see the standard light seeping through the dash, if the outside was completely dark. With the LED's, it almost looks about twice as bright than the standard bulbs, with the dimmer all the way down. Info By Matthew I Jones, editing by Doug Bevan Converted to PDF Form by Pertheseries.com