MAZDA 3 MPS FRONT MOUNTING INTERCOOLER INSTALLATION

Transcription

1 MAZDA 3 MPS FRONT MOUNTING INTERCOOLER INSTALLATION Tools needed: 7mm Hose clamp driver 10mm,12mm sockets and suitable ratchet with extensions Flat bladed screwdriver Pliers Phillips screwdriver

2 KIT CONTENTS 1x Forge Intercooler 2x Forge intercooler hardpipes 2x 90 degree 60mm silicon hoses 1x 90 degree silicon reducer hose 1x straight silicon reducer hose 5x M6 penny washers 5x M6x12 bolts 4x M6 nyloc nuts 3x aluminium brackets (2x intercooler, 1x horn) 1x 45-60mm hose clip 6x 50-70mm hose clip 1x 60-80mm hose clip

3 1. Jack the front of the car up in the air and support on axle stands or ramps so you can safely work underneath it. Open the bonnet and remove the two 10mm bolts holding the cover on to the stock intercooler. 2. Using a 10mm socket, loosen the jubilee clip holding the intercooler outlet hose to the intercooler.

4 3. Remove the vacuum hose from the top of the dump valve, and the 25mm return hose from the side of the dump valve, by using pliers to compress the clips, then remove both 12mm bolts and take the dump valve off the intercooler. 4. With the dump valve removed, the inlet hose is accessible loosen the jubilee clip with a 10mm socket.

5 5. Undo the two 12mm nuts at the front holding the intercooler to the mounting bracket and the one 12mm nut at the back, then lift the intercooler up off the bracket, pulling it out of the inlet and outlet hoses as you do. The inlet and outlet hoses can now be removed from the car. KEEP the rubber anti-vibration grommets under each nut for later use. 6. Working under the car remove the seven 10mm bolts holding the engine undertray on, and remove it from the car.

6 7. Undo the three 10mm bolts on each side holding the front edge of the wheel arch liners to the underside of the bumper. and the five bolts along the front underside of the bumper to remove the secondary undertray.

7 8. In the wheel arches, undo the centre phillips head screws from their plastic retainers, then when unscrewed, pull the retainers from the holes. Repeat for both sides. 9. Pull the corner of the arch liner away where the wing joins the bumper to reveal a 10mm bolt remove both sides, and pull the bumper outwards away from the wing. With the arch liner pulled back, also remove the foglight wiring (if fitted)

8 10. Back in the engine bay, remove the four plastic phillips head screws and their retainers, then remove the two phillips head screws at either end of the grille.

9 11. With all screws removed, reach down from above (or up from below) and remove the air temp sensor from behind the lower grille, and pull out the clip holding the wiring to the bumper. 12. Reach down behind the top grille either side of the bonnet latch, and you should see two black clips holding the bumper to the crash bar. Unclip these, and the bumper will be free to be removed from the car. Locating lug Clip

10 13. Remove the plastic panel in the passenger side (on a RHD car) arch, by removing the two 10mm bolts and the push clip which will have to be levered out. 14. Undo the 10mm bolt holding the horn to the chassis (next to the plastic shielding removed above), and remove its mounting bracket. Use the shortest of the brackets supplied and mount the horn to the chassis as shown below using a supplied M6x12 bolt and washer.

11 15. Undo the bolt holding the power steering cooler pipe to its bracket, then position the pipe BEHIND the bracket and bolt it up from the other side (this has the effect of pushing the power steering pipework closer to the radiator). 16. On the crash bar, note the location of the two existing square cutouts in recesses on the crash bar, and drill two 7mm holes in the centre of those recesses, 13mm up from the bottom of the bar. Get an assistant (or a jack) to hold the intercooler, whilst you use two M6x12 bolts, and two penny washers push the bolts though the holes and into the brackets on the intercooler, then tighten with two M6 nyloc nuts held with a spanner or pliers. Also take this opportunity to clip the air temp sensor on to the holes provided in the lower air guide of the Forge intercooler. Holes in line with square cutouts, 13mm up from the bottom of the bar Air temp sensor

12 17. Use the two supplied brackets of matching length to temporarily secure the bottom of the intercooler, by using another of the M6x12 bolts, penny washer and nyloc nut on each side of the intercooler, and one of the stock Mazda bolts on the chassis. Push the intercooler as close to the power steering cooler pipe as possible, then tighten the bolts. 18. Fit the reducing elbow to the turbo outlet with one of the supplied 45-60mm clips this is a tight fit and will require some lubrication. We find silicone spray (dashboard cleaner) works best. Angle the outlet about 45 degrees across the engine, don t tighten the clip yet.

13 19. Attach the two 90 degree silicon bends to the outlets on the intercooler with two 50-70mm clips. Leave the clips loose at the moment. Lubricate the open ends, and position 50-70mm clips on the open ends. 20. Remove one of the anti-vibration grommets you kept on the stock intercooler in step 5, and place it in the triangular bracket on the longer of the two Forge pipes. Thread the pipe down through the engine bay and into the UPPER of the two 90 degree bends, and then locate the grommet onto the stud on the top of the engine block, and into the bend in step 18. Place grommet from step 5 in here

14 21. Place the short straight reducer onto the throttle body and secure with one 50-70mm clip and one 60-80mm clip, then feed the other hard pipe into the engine bay (lift the radiator hoses slightly to help), and into the LOWER of the two 90 degree bends on the intercooler. The hardpipes should not touch at any point. When you are ahppy with the fit, tighten ALL jubilee clips with a hose clamp driver and tighten the nut on the anti-vibration grommet.

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16 22. Reinstall the dump valve removed in step 3 (we refitted a Forge valve in place of the original) and shorten the vaccum hose as shown to fit back between the valve and the inlet manifold. 23. Replace the bumper on the front of the car noting that the Forge intercooler has a lower air guide that sits inside the grille opening and may catch on the bumper as its reinstalled. Reinstall the engine undertrays noting that two of the undertray bolts now hold the intercooler lower brackets in place (pic in step 17). Enjoy your new found performance! ENGINEERED FOR PERFORMANCE