RoR Step-by-Step Review * 1967 Dodge Coronet R/T Foose Design Revell Review

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1 RoR Step-by-Step Review * 1967 Dodge Coronet R/T Foose Design Revell Review Having been a long time fan of Chip Foose I could hardly wait to get this kit and with it being a MoPar with a HEMI; I knew I had to build it! When I opened the kit I realized that this is indeed a variation of original 67 Coronet R/T kit [# ]. First; this kit is a 2N1 like the last release and builds as the stock version or Foose Design version. Next at one hundred and fifty one pieces this kit is very detailed. Finally we get some somewhat bad news. This kit depicts a FOOSE designed 67 Coronet R/T and not the 67 Coronet built on the TV series Overhaulin. That Coronet wasn t an R/T and had a new 5.7L Hemi, but you do get the bumble bee stripe, Foose wheels and a 426 Hemi. The kit is also relatively flash free and nicely rendered. For the Modeler: This is a great kit with a lot of optional pieces so there a number of possible builds. This review brings the model into a correct R/T version with the Foose Design graphics and authentic engine and interior appointments. In order to perfect your build you ll need to know about: period correct engine color selection and detailing; how to make foil script lettering; Tire/wheel selection; recreating the Foose suspension stance; chassis detailing and color choices; interior detailing, correct door panel choice; glass installation; modifying the instrument panel to place the gauges behind the dash openings; engine bay detailing; black wash for the chrome parts; turn signal color selection; suspension modification to accept the wide rear tires are all fully explained in this 8 page, full-color Step-by-Step review.

2 [fig 0a] The box art and parts layout. Fig 3a-3b As is almost always the case I started this build with the engine. As stated the 1967 Coronet R/T has the mighty 426 cubic inch HEMI and this kit features really good representation of it with 19 pieces. I decided to go with Plastikote Chrysler engine Red and followed the instruction sheet [which is correct] making assembly simple and accurate. First; glue [I use Testor s liquid cement] the block halves [#50&51] together then add the oil pan [#52] followed by both cylinder heads [#56 x2] and intake manifold [#60].

3 Once it is dry sand the seams on the transmission with a sanding stick and spray paint the whole thing. Once dry I painted the bell housing Testor s Aluminum and the rest of the transmission Testor s steel. The engine front [#57] is painted Duplicolor Satin Black and the oil filter is painted Testor s Chevy Engine Red to simulate a Fram filter. The starter [#62] and coil [#12] are painted Testor s Gloss Black and Steel. The distributor [#53] is painted Testor s Steel and Tan. Followed by the exhaust manifolds [#65 left #66 right] painted Testor s Steel. Now the fan [#32] and fan belt [#9] are painted Duplicolor Gloss Black then the belts are painted Testor s Flat black. Next the alternator [#97] and carburetors are installed after being black washed with thinned flat black paint [2 parts thinner/1 part paint]. Finally the air cleaner is glued in place and decal #8 is added. [Fig 4] I decided to tackle the body next. It is well done with only a couple of seams on the rear quarter panels by the roof. These remove simply with a sanding stick. I also removed the R/T scripts from the sides as they will be replaced by decals. I then primed it then painted it with Duplicolor Intense Blue Pearl and cleared it with Krylon Krystal Clear. For those who want the accurate color try Duplicolor Chrysler Forest Green Pearl BCC0423. Because of the 426 hemi in the kit and lack of decals for it I decided to foil the scripts molded on the body. For those who haven t done this it is a great way to be able to get a chromed script without trying to pick it out with a brush. After priming the body; apply the foil to the script or scripts [In this case I did the Dodge on the hood as well] and then press it down gently with a toothpick. Once that s done use your X-acto knife to carefully cut around the scripts. Then paint the body and once it is dry lightly sand the paint from the raised script using 1000 grit [anything 600 up will also work]. This will leave only the raised parts chrome and the rest body color. [fig 5] You get two sets of tires/rims in the kit, both the large diameter Foose wheels and stock versions. Both sets of tires are well done and are the new softer rubber, but they do lack any raised lettering. However Foose center cap decals are provided. The tire and rim combination for the Foose wheels makes little sense here. The rims would scale out around inch wheels, so the tires should be a low profile tire. The tire height [tread to inner opening] measures just over 3mm front and just over 4 mm rear. The stock tires only measure 4mm. This much extra rubber does cause the car to sit higher even after the suspension modifications. The tire backings [parts #151] are supposed to be chrome, but the ones in

4 the first run were not [according to Revell this will be fixed on the next run]. Revell would replace them, but since I didn t want to wait I just painted mine gloss black then chrome around the outer edge and steel in the center to simulate the disc brakes. [fig 6] As with the Foose Firebird the chassis goes together fairly well, but has to be modified to look correct after accepting the larger Foose wheels. This is the big issue with this kit. Revell put the large diameter Foose wheels in the kit, but they left the stock suspension in it as well as the bigger tires, so with no modifications the car will sit way too high. As with the Firebird the box art is misleading depicting the sketch Chip Foose made not the actual car that was redone. [fig 7] The front end is lowered simply by removing 2mm [3/32nd inch] from the front axle assembly[#28] points as well as shown shaded in the photo. I used a pair of nippers I got in the beading section of A.C Moore [these are great for removing parts from the trees as well]. This will allow the front tires to sit further

5 up in the body. Because of the width of the tires the axle assembly will have to be narrowed as well for it to fit correctly. This is easily done by nipping off 1mm from each side of the wheel connection tabs. This will leave just enough of the tabs to hold on to the tires. Finally remove the ring around the mounting hole on back of two of the tire backings [#151]. The rear stance looks fine to me as is, but can be lowered similar to the front by taking 2mm [3/32nd inch] off of the height of the front mounts of the rear axle assembly [#31]. The areas to be modified are shaded in fig 7 [fig 8] Once the modifications were done I assembled the chassis. The chassis [#20], driveshaft [#6], front stabilizer bar [#27], differential [#30] and differential cover [#29] are sprayed Duplicolor Gloss Black. Next the front and rear axle assemblies [#28&#31] are sprayed Duplicolor flat black. I assembled the rear end [#29, #30 and #31] then added the rear shocks [#38&#39]. Next I assembled the front end by gluing the front shocks [#40 x 2] to the front axle assembly and then adding the front stabilizer bar [#27]. Those all were set it aside to harden while I worked on the chassis itself. The exhaust [#4] is painted as follows. First I painted the exhaust pipe openings with Testor s Flat black, then painted the pipes Testor s Steel and finally the mufflers Testor s Aluminum. Now the Gas tank is painted Testor s Steel and the exhaust was put in place, next add on the front and rear assemblies, driveshaft and put the tires on. While those hardened I took the time to attach the steering gearbox [#59] to the chassis rail then the lower radiator hose [#43] to the motor and cemented the motor in place. I painted the firewall Testor s Flat Black [but to be correct it should be body color] then added the pedals [#25 painted flat black] to the back side then finishing by adding the wiper motor[#88 black washed] and master cylinder [#11 Steel/Flat Black] to the front side. This was then cemented into the body. [fig 11a] I followed this by putting in the windows [the visors on the windshield are detail painted Satin Black]. I only use Elmer s Glue-All for this as it dries clear and holds nicely. Finally the rearview mirror [#91] and dome light [#127] is added. Before installing the dome light I foiled it and painted the center Testor s Flat White. I also chose to omit the rear side windows from my build.

6 [fig 9a interior] For the dash I chose to remove the molded in dash gauges and glue the dash decals in behind the dash. This is done by drilling out the gauge faces with a 1/16 drill bit then using a #11 X-acto blade to finish hollowing and squaring the gauges. I then cut the dash decals from the sheet [as one piece] and covered them with Scotch 3M packing tape. This will protect them from the glue and give them the look of a gauge with a plastic cover over it Once done I simply cut the decals apart and used Elmer s Glue-All to attach them one by one to the back of the open holes. I use this technique a lot when photo reducing dash pictures to make dash gauge decals. [fig 9b] The interior again replicates the R/T stock four speed version of the car and consists of 15 pieces. It is the platform type interior and assembles very well. Included are six decals and with some detail painting and Bare Metal Foil it looks very good. It should be noted that there is an extra incorrect set of interior door panels in the kit. The ones you want are the flat ones not the curved ones.

7 [fig 13a] Next I did the radiator subassembly by attaching the radiator wall [#13 painted body color], Radiator [#44 gloss black], fan shroud [#45 gloss black] and the horn[#10 gloss black]. Then put in the interior and installed the chassis. When installing the completed chassis I found it easier to put the back in first and then work the front in. With a little maneuvering the chassis sits in place nicely and then I added in the completed radiator subassembly. Finally I added the remaining battery [#67 gloss black with red caps and steel terminals], hoses [#26&68 flat black] and washer bottle [#124 flat white] [fig 12] Final assembly on this kit is easy, but let me walk you through a few things. Do not forget to attach the hood molding [#84] to the front of the hood I had to sand the molding down a little at each side to get a good fit. For the grille I started by black washing it and putting in the headlights and turn signals [with Elmer s Glue All]. Next I attached the striker plate [#61 satin black] to top rear of the grille. Finally I attached the Foose plate decal [backing and all] with Elmer s Glue-All and cemented the whole thing in place. I found 1:1 pictures of the turn signals being all amber, all white and white with an amber bulb. I decided to replicate the last one by just painting an amber dot in the middle and leaving the rest clear.

8 [fig 11] The taillights [#106] on the R/T are only red on the edges, so those were done red. The part that would be on the trunk is black and was black washed [see fig 11]. Once painted; I attached it and moved on to the bumper. I painted the recesses for the back up lenses [#128] flat white and glued them in then attached the rear plate decal [with backing attached] all with Elmer s Glue All. The bumper is attached and then I added the bumble bee stripe, the rear Dodge and the R/T decals [if desired]. Last but not least attach the wipers [#92 x2 blades flat black], side mirror [#89] and door handles [#93 left & #94 right]. Use extreme caution cutting away the door handles as they can break easily. I used the nippers to cut them free, but leaving about 1/8 sprue attached. I then used an X-acto knife to trim it down. Work slowly and there should be no breaks. Final Impression This kit builds well despite the problems listed above and is looks nice on the shelf. It should be suitable for most builders. I would give this kit 8 out of 10 stars if it were not for the too large tires, but will still give it 7.5 out of 10 stars. I will definitely build this kit again using the stock parts.