Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Race Car Hauler Ford LN :25 Scale AMT Model Kit #758 Review

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1 Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Race Car Hauler Ford LN :25 Scale AMT Model Kit #758 Review The Ford L-Series trucks are a range of heavy-duty trucks that were built by Ford between 1970 and The first dedicated Class 8 truck produced by the company, the L-Series range replaced the N-Series short conventional (derived from the F-Series). The Louisville Line encompassed a wide range of models through the Class 7-8 GVWR ratings and for medium-duty, severe-service, and vocational applications; many were produced as semi tractors. They were also available as cab only with just the frame for custom use. The line would become one of the most popular series of trucks Ford ever produced. The Aeromax L9000 was one of the most aerodynamic trucks in North America upon its introduction in The L-Series was produced in the Kentucky Truck Plant near Louisville, Kentucky, which eventually gave rise to the nickname "Ford Louisville Line" trucks. As a result of the 1996 sale of the Ford heavy-truck line to Freightliner, the L-Series/Aeromax ended production under the Ford brand, living on as the Sterling line of trucks that were produced until For the Modeler: This review covers the 2013 Re-release (Re-Pop) of the AMT Race Car Hauler kit by Round2 in 1/25 Scale. The kit is number AMT758 in the current Round2 catalog. This would be considered a Skill Level 3 for modelers twelve and older. The kit has seen a multitude of releases and this is a very popular kit. It was once a highly contested (by Richard Petty) Petty Enterprises Hauler, the Tennessee Thunder Hauler and so many more different releases. It has had different versions with different cars in the kit, this time you get just the truck with no car to haul. What you do get is around 200 parts molded in White, Chrome, Clear and Clear Red. There are Rubber tires and a metal axle. The decals are Waterslide with a fold out sheet of directions. The build has a fully detailed motor and a chassis that has to be completely assembled. The interior is basic but complete. The wheels are Chrome and the tires well detailed. The cab is a single piece with the hood separate. The Race Ramp bed is multiple parts and must be assembled. It is simplistic without complete encasement for toolboxes to open the doors. The decals

2 only come in a very dark Blue which limits your color choices for body color. As this is a re-release and the molds are well used so the kit does have a bit of flash on it and the sprue connections tend to be a little thick. This kit will take a little extra work for clean-up but yields a great display when done. Finished dimensions are: Length: 14½, Width: 4, Height: 5¼. BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the build YOU want! Unless you are building a Factory Stock or a Replica your choices of color and build options are completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no Wrong way to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly. PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the 2013 Retro Deluxe version. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer s White Glue. Paints consist of Tamiya Acrylic bottle paints and different brands of Rattle can spray paints. Many parts are finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than a half an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection.

3 PIC 2 PIC 3 Here are the decals for this build. The quality is very high and color registry is good. There is a small carrier around each decal. These decals float easily and will set quickly. Normally it is preferable to use a setting solution to help move the decals in place on your build and to allow extra time to place them. I personally have found Microscale Industries products to be the most compatible with all the different manufacturers of decals. PIC 4 The motor is a lot of parts for assembly at one point. But you can do a majority of the work prior to painting. Assemble the block, oil pan, heads, valley pan, front cover, fuel filter, oil cooler and engine mounts. Assemble the intake and PCV valve. Assemble the power steering unit. Paint the block and intake Blue with an Aluminum transmission. The exhaust and manifolds are Steel. The belt and radiator hoses are Flat Black. The fan, power steering pump and starter are Black. The air compressor bracket is Aluminum. Oil filter are White.

4 PIC 5 PIC 6 On the block add the fuel injector and intake. Add the valve covers. Add the starter and oil filters. Add the air compressor bracket and air compressor. On the belt add the power steering unit and alternator then fan, add this to the block. Add the manifolds. Add the exhaust. Last add the radiator hoses.

5 PIC 7 PIC 8 The front tires and rims need to be just slid together and glued. The trim ring and rim needs to carefully have the Chrome removed from the attachment point for the glue to adhere. Cut the spider out of the center of the tire. Slide the rim in place and glue the trim ring in place. Normally I would rough up the tires to give a road used look but the tread on these is very thin and I left them as is. PIC 9 PIC 10 The rear tires are much as the same as the front tires. Remove the spider and slide a rim into the tire. Add the trim ring. There are two different rims, one set has LUGS one set does not, the lugs are the outer rims. Insert the hub into the inner rim glue the rims together with the hub through both rims. Add the rear drums. PIC 11 The chassis is assembled in multiple steps and then painted as a unit.

6 PIC 12 For strength, build the complete chassis and all the suspension and then paint it. Start with the frame. Assemble the cross members on one rail and then add the other rail in place. PIC 13 The rear suspension is assembled. PIC 14 Install one leaf spring in place. Assemble the axle and insert it in place in the leaf spring. Slide the other leaf spring over the axle into place on the other side. Add the brake cylinders to the backing plates and slide those in place on the axles. Add the midship bearing to the frame. The driveshaft will be added later.

7 PIC 15 The front suspension can be assembled now. PIC 16 Install the leaf springs. Add the power steering box and pitman arm. Install the tie rod into the axle and install the axle on the leaf spring. Add the steering link in place. Insert the axle pins and brake cylinders into the backing plates and install those on the axle. PIC 17 Gather the pieces to assemble the radiator.

8 PIC 18 Add the fuel tank mounts to the frame. Assemble the battery box and install that. Add the cab mounts to the frame. At this point the frame assembly is completed and needs to be painted the color of your choice. Most often it is Flat Black I did mine a Structural Steel. The radiator is Flat Black. PIC 19 Paint the driveshafts Steel.

9 PIC 20 Using the metal axle install the rear wheels into the rear axle. Install the front wheels. Assemble the Luber-finer and install it under the battery box. Assemble the tank halves, add the ends. Install the steps and cap. Install onto the mounts. Install the rear (short) driveshaft from the axle to the midship bearing. Install the motor with the long driveshaft to the midship bearing. Add the radiator in place.

10 PIC 21 PIC 22 The front and rear suspension is completed with the tires installed. PIC 23 The overall rolling chassis is completed at this time and you can move to the interior.

11 PIC 24 PIC 25 Pick the interior color of your choice. I used a Blue. Add the air tanks to the underside of the tub. Paint the outside of the tub and firewall Flat Black. The interior is your interior color, Blue. Assemble the driver seat spring and paint it Black. The seats are Blue. The console is Blue. The floor is Flat Black as is the inside of the firewall. Add the spring to the driver seat and install that. Install the passenger seat. Add the shift lever to the console and glue that between the seats. Add the firewall to the tub front. Paint the door handles and window cranks Silver. PIC 26 PIC 27 The dash, column and wheel are Blue. Paint the instrument panel wood tone or Flat Black. The instruments are White with Black and Silver bezels. The spokes on the wheel are Aluminum. Install the instrument panel in the dash and add the wheel to the small column. PIC 28 Install the column and wheel to the dash underside. Install the dash into the tub.

12 PIC 29 Line up the tub onto the frame and attach it in place. Attach the chrome steering column from the steering box to the column under the dash. PIC 30 PIC 31 Start the body now. Install the hood vent. Add the AC unit to the roof. Open all the holes in the roof for the running lights, mirrors, grab bars, mirrors and all add-ons as needed, plus in the hood for the turn signals.

13 PIC 32 NOTE: on the body look for MOLD LINES and blemishes and remove them all before painting. There is a strong set right across the front by the grille. PIC 33 PIC 34 The car hauler body can be assembled and painted at the same time.

14 PIC 35 Once the sides are glued into place, the front and back panels can be attached and the top secured to make the box in the front. There will be two ramps and the rear bumper that will be left off the truck to be painted by themselves. PIC 36 Wet sand all of the parts with 800 grit paper and clean the parts thoroughly. Use a good quality Primer and coat the inside and outside of all the parts and let that completely cure. PIC 37 Once the Primer has cured wet sand with 800 grit again and clean the parts. Paint the base color. For this build I used a personal mix I created with PPG automotive paints mixing different shades of Blues and Silvers to get a nice shade of Blue I liked. Once I got the color I painted it with an airbrush and let it sit and cure.

15 PIC 38 Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it Floats loosely on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The purpose is to soften the decals to help them conform to the contours of the body and lay smooth. To apply Micro Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the part where you are going to apply the decal. Next apply the decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal. Blot the decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel so as not to move it and allow it to dry. For a tougher decals apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to the decal. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly work any creases or blemishes in the decal out with a Q-tip or damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to damage the decal. A second coat of Micro-Sol can be added if needed. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. Let the decals cure at least overnight before applying your clear coat.

16 PIC 39 Once the decals were finished I detail painted the trim and handles with Aluminum and Black before Clear coat. PIC 40 PIC 41 OPTIONAL: Prior to assembly I want to give the glass a thinner crisper look. I will dip the parts into Pledge Floor Care. When applied to both side of a piece of clear polystyrene, it will make glass appear thinner and clearer. It will help to hide minor scratches also. Simply pour some Pledge into a small container and dip your clear glass into it. It will self-level and make the part look clearer. Place the parts on a sheet of paper towel to cure, the paper towel will draw out the excess Pledge and Wick it off the parts so it does not accumulate at the edges leaving an unwanted build up. After you dip the part, be sure to place a cover over it to prevent dust from collecting on it.

17 PIC 42 Use White Glue and install all the glass. PIC 43 PIC 44 Paint the radio Flat Black and install that on the interior roof. Paint the running lights Transparent Yellow and install them on the bezels. Add the running lights, horns and AC vent on top of the roof. Install the grab handles to the sides. Build the mirrors on the truck. Use Superglue for strength on those. Start with the top bar then insert the bottom bar gluing the mirror support, and finally the bottom bracket. Once that cures add the mirror. Paint the reflector on the mirror back Transparent Yellow.

18 PIC 45 Slide the cab body over the interior and glue it into place.

19 PIC 46 PIC 46a The hood is assembled and installed. It just sits in place. On the hood, add the grille and blinkers. Paint the blinkers Transparent Yellow. Add the headlight bezels and lenses. PIC 47 Assemble the air filter and air tube, paint it Flat Black and install it on the motor and to the firewall. Add the bumper to the frame and cut the license to fit and glue it on. Glue the stacks on the rear of the cab to the exhaust.

20 PIC 48 PIC 49 NOTE: There is a major fit issue with the hood. With the radiator in place the hood would not fit at all. There was a gap and no way to repair it without major changes. Unfortunately this is not something you can notice until you are too far in the build as the body assembly is done well after the motor and interior is installed. I double-checked all mounts and alignments and found no build errors. The work-around I decided was a simple fix of removal of the fan blade and radiator, I attached the radiator to the inside of the hood behind the grill and then added a little scrap styrene to the frame to lift the mounts enough to line up the hood. This was all done by rough eye and no specific measurement. PIC 50 Once the repair is done the hood fits flush and in place. The hood has no hinges or mounts it only sits in place.

21 PIC 51 Here is the completed side view of the truck. PIC 52 PIC 53 Finish the rear of the truck now. Install the rear tail lights into the bumper and cut the tag and glue it on. Install the bumper. Install the body onto the frame. Add the slicks into the tire holder. The rear is finished. PIC 54 The ramps just set in place on the body in the slots to allow loading of a car.

22 OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: This kit had been around for a while and has seen many different lives. But it is still a great build. Other than a few issues that always plague older re-pops this kit is a good one. Flash and mold lines are bad. It needs some extra clean-up time. Fit and finish and not perfect and not all the parts have positive attachment points. Plus the Sprue attachments are thick leaving damage where you removed the part, especially on a chrome part. But this is not a kit molded in 2016 either. It is 40 years old! And it is showing its age although it is holding up pretty well. The motor detail was good and it fit together nicely without issue. There is not a great abundance of chrome but enough to look good. The frame was straight and assembled good. The fact that it was multiple part and without issue was a nice thing. Most frames of this length have some warpage and this had none. The interior was sparse. It is very basic and detail was muddy even on the dash. This would have been a great place for dash decals. The body had some strong mold lines, especially the hood. But overall it was straight and good. The detail molding was not very crisp and you can tell the molds have seen some serious use. The bed was absolutely straight. None of the panels were warped. It went together without issue. Other than the poor hood fit I had no assembly problems at all. Overall fit and finish was not too bad. You can see where the age is getting to the crispness of the details and the molds are old but they still produce a great subject kit. I would not give this to a beginner but a builder with a few kits under their belt and some experience with Re-pops could easily make a nice build out of this. I do have to ding it for the hood fit but overall I was very happy and think it is a good kit. I give this one an 8 out of 10.