Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Motorcraft T-Bird Pro-Stock 1:25 Scale Revell Model Kit # Review

Transcription

1 Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Motorcraft T-Bird Pro-Stock 1:25 Scale Revell Model Kit # Review Bob Glidden is an American drag racer who first retired from Pro Stock racing in 1997, returning in He retired with the most wins in National Hot Rod Association (NHRA) history at that time, and he is currently the third most successful drag racer of the professional class drivers. Glidden won 85 NHRA National Events and holds Ten Pro Stock Championships which include five in a row beginning in Among his numerous accomplishments, Glidden won nine straight NHRA national races in 1979 and was the No. 1 qualifier 23 times in a row, including the entire 1987 season. At one point, he won 50 eliminations rounds in a row. In 1987 Glidden won eight races including his 60th national win. He ended his season with five straight wins and his eighth Pro Stock championship. He reached the finals ten times that season, winning a record 42 rounds of competition. He qualified number one in all 14 events. His two season streak ended at the 1988 Gator Nationals with 22 straight top qualifiers. His 1988 season was similar to After struggling early in the season, he won five of the last seven races heading to his fourth straight title. He retired his Thunderbird after 19 national victories in favor of a Ford Probe at the Supernationals. For the Modeler: This review covers the Revell kit #4098 of the Motorcraft T-Bird Pro Stock driven by Bob Glidden in 1/25 scale. The kit is a direct Re-release (Re-Pop) of the original molding. The Copyright on the chassis reads This is a Skill Level 2 kit with 99 parts molded in White, Chrome, Clear and Clear Red with Vinyl tires and a new high quality decal sheet. This kit features a detailed BOSS 494 drag racing engine, complete roll cage, racing chassis and removable hood and body. Assembly is straight forward with typical motor, chassis interior then the body. The detail is nice on the motor and could be wired easily. The roll cage builds section by section with the interior installed prior to finishing the cage making paintwork a little more effort. The body can be assembled prior to painting and must be Two-Tone painted as decals do not have the White side stripe on them. Overall dimensions are: Length: 8-3/4", Width: 3-1/16", Height: 2".

2 BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. One of the best parts of model building is using your imagination to create the car YOU want! Unless you are building a Factory Stock or a Replica car your choices of color and build options is completely up to you. The instruction give recommendations but you are free to substitute whatever options you want. There is no Wrong way to build your kit! Have fun and enjoy your hobby. Review the instruction sheet thoroughly to get familiar with the assembly sequence. Decide your color scheme in advance and your custom options so you can build accordingly. PIC 1 This is the box art for this kit as released in the 2013 Motor Sports version. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer s White Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel or Acrylic bottle paints and Rattle can spray paints. The body is finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use simplified colors that most model builders should have on hand. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. Note to remember: Always follow the Manufacturer s Safety and Use Guidelines when using any of the products mentioned in the review for your own protection. PIC 2 PIC 3 Here is a scan of the re-release version decals. The quality is much nicer than the originals and there is almost no carrier. The decals float quickly and adhere just as fast. I recommend using setting solutions like Micro Set or Micro Sol to make the decals lay nicely and the larger ones more manageable. The decals include all the Sponsor and Contingency decals plus the window decals.

3 PIC 4 Start with the motor. Some assembly can be done before paint work. Assemble the block halves and add the heads. Paint this unit Aluminum with a Flat Black bell housing. The starter is Black. Paint the valley cover Steel, the intake Aluminum and the carbs Copper. The distributor cap is Black with a Steel shaft. The oil filter is Gold with Aluminum mount. The valve covers are painted with Transparent Red. The fan is Gold. The belts are Flat Black with Aluminum pulleys and accessories. The front mount is Steel with Aluminum water pump. PIC 5 Motor assembly: Add the valve covers to the heads. Add the Valley cover, intake and carbs to the motor top. Add the distributor. Add the oil filter in place. PIC 6 The motor front is mounted and the belts attached to it. The fan is added last.

4 PIC 7 NOTE: due to painting issues and a majority of the chassis being Black, I decided to do the paint work prior to any assembly. This review will have most of the parts already painted in the assembly section but I will call out the colors. PIC 8 For a Contest Quality kit remove the Injection Molding tabs on the chassis. The best way is with a razor shave the tab flush and sand it smooth.

5 PIC 9 PIC 10 Start the chassis assembly with the shifter and pedals. The pedals are Black with Steel rods. The shift knobs are Black. Install the pedals on the floor. The shifters are placed in the hole on the transmission hump. Line up the shift rod to the shifter and install in the holes on the hump. PIC 11 I assembled the dash, tachometer on the dash, firewall and electric box on the firewall prior to painting the unit Black. PIC 12 The Steering wheel is Black with Steel and the column is Aluminum.

6 PIC 13 DECALS 10, 11 and 12 are instrument dials on the dash. PIC 14 Install the steering wheel in place on the dash and then the whole unit is installed on the chassis pan.

7 PIC 15 PIC 16 Start the roll cage. The cage is Black with Flat Black roll pads. The driver wall attaches to the chassis floor and the back brace to the side. PIC 17 PIC 18 The seats are installed next. Paint the center Red with a Flat Black seat. Install both seats in place.

8 PIC 19 PIC 20 Paint the cage parts Black. Install the passenger s wall and front brace the same as the driver s side. PIC 21 The trunk area is assembled now. Paint all the parts Black. On the battery paint the posts Steel with one Red wire. On the fuel cell the cover and pumps are Aluminum.

9 PIC 22 Install in this order: Add the batteries to each side. Add the fuel cell and rear tank. Add the X brace from the rear brace to the floor. Add the top brace from the rear brace to the fuel cell. Add the rear deck panel. PIC 23 PIC 24 Assemble the front frame. Paint all the parts Black. The tie rod boots are Flat Black. The springs are Flat Black with Steel and spindle tip is Aluminum. Install in this order: Add the tie rod in place on the frame. Install the spindles and the top frame rails. Add the steering linkage from the firewall to the tie rod. I used Superglue on the spindles and frame for strength as the weight of the tires rests on these parts as well as the overall front end weight. PIC 25 Note on the spindle and spring the spring coils are dry-brushed with Steel to highlight them.

10 PIC 26 PIC 27 Install the motor. The transmission mounts sit on the lower frame and the front mount sits in the side frames holding the motor in place. PIC 28 The radiator is installed now. The radiator, main shroud and fan shroud are all Black. The hose is Black with Transparent Red attachments. PIC 29 Assemble the radiator to the main shroud and the fan shroud to the main shroud. Attach this unit in place on the front frame. The hose glues to the heads and the radiator, there are no positive attachment points for this part.

11 PIC 30 PIC 31 Assemble and install the headers next. The headers are Flat Black. Install in place on the heads through the frame rails. PIC 32 Install the rear suspension next. Paint the Driveshaft Steel. The frame brace is Black. The wheelie bars are Aluminum with Black wheels. PIC 33 Assemble the differential and axle and paint it Gold. The springs are Aluminum. The wheelie bar supports are Steel. Insert the drive shaft into the transmission. Install the frame brace. Insert the axle into the wheelie bars and add the cross bar at the wheels. Add the panhard rod from each wheelie bar where they mount. Install the wheelie bar onto the chassis. Add the springs from the chassis to the wheelie bar.

12 PIC 34 PIC 35 Assemble the front wheels. The wheel need to be made to look used and more realistic. There is a film on these tires that needs to be scrubbed off also. Use 220 grit sandpaper and roll the tread while pressing it to the paper. Insert the wheel back and wheel front into the tire. PIC 36 PIC 37 Assemble the rear wheels. The wheel need to be made to look used and more realistic. There is a film on these tires that needs to be scrubbed off also. Use 220 grit sandpaper and roll the tread while pressing it to the paper. Paint the wheel backs Aluminum. Use Superglue and assemble the tire backside into the tire. Insert the wheel back and wheel front into the tire. PIC 38 PIC 39 To install the tires on to the axles push them carefully on and they will POP into place.

13 PIC 40 PIC 41 Here is the finished chassis, both top and bottom. PIC 42 Here is a completed shot of the rolling chassis. Set this aside for now as you are ready to move on to the body assembly.

14 43 PIC 44 The body can be assembled prior to paint work. Attach the front and rear fenders to the body. Assemble the snorkel and attach that to the hood. Attach the spoiler tot the trunk. There are some mold lines and glue lines to be cleaned up before paintwork. PIC 45 PIC 46 There is a parting line on the hood snorkel to fill and smooth, and there are two very light mold lines to sand off on each side of the windows. PIC 47 PIC 48 Wet sand the parts with 800 grit sandpaper and clean the parts with soapy water. Rinse well and let them air dry completely. Use a good quality Primer and coat the interior and exterior of the body and all parts. Wet sand the Primer with 800 grit paper and rinse clean. Once dry paint White on the rear half of the body so you can tape off the stripe.

15 PIC 49 PIC 50 I use a Blue Fineline tape made out of vinyl for the main paint sections. This gives me the crisp lines needed for a stripe. I then fill in the main areas with painters Low Tack tape. Once the tape is in place I can paint the second color. Always start Light to dark. Darker colors cover over lighter colors easier. For the painting I used GM White and GM Victory Red colors. The red is a close match to the decal color. PIC 51 Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on the car you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it Floats loosely on the carrier paper. Microscale Industries has a product set called Micro-Set and Micro-Sol. The purpose is to soften the decals to help them conform to the contours of the body and lay smooth. To apply Micro Set, use a soft brush and apply Micro Set to the part where you are going to apply the decal. Next apply the decal as normal. Use a small pointed tip synthetic bristle brush and carefully position the decal. Blot the decal carefully with a Q-tip or paper towel so as not to move it and allow it to dry. For a tougher decals apply Micro-Sol with a small flat brush on to the decal. Apply with as few strokes as possible so as not to disturb the decal. As the decal dries slowly work any creases or blemishes in the decal out with a Q-tip or damp paper towel. Work slowly as not to damage the decal. A second coat of Micro-Sol can be added if needed. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. Let the decals cure at least overnight before applying your clear coat.

16 PIC 52 PIC 53 Install the DECALS on to windows now. Note placement guide on back of Instructions sheet. Prior to assembly I want to give the glass a thinner crisper look. I will dip the parts into Pledge Floor Care. When applied to both side of a piece of clear polystyrene, it will make glass appear thinner and clearer. It will help to hide minor scratches also. Simply pour some Pledge into a small container and dip your clear glass into it. It's a kind of magic; it will self-level and make the part clearer! After you dip the part, be sure to place a cover over it to prevent dust from collecting on it. Place the parts on a sheet of paper towel to cure, the paper towel will draw out the excess Pledge and Wick it off the parts so it does not accumulate at the edges leaving an unwanted build up. Once the glass is cured install all the glass from the outside with Elmer s Glue. PIC 54 PIC 55 The front lights ate installed now. The corner lens is painted Turn Signal Yellow. Use Elmer s Glue and attach the lenses. To the bezels. This assembly is installed inside the bumper. PIC 56 The rear end is finished now. The backup lights are Silver on the inside and installed into the tail light. Install this in place in the rear bumper. The chute mount is Red. The chute is Black.

17 PIC 57 Add the chute to the mount and install on the rear end. There are four hydraulic shocks to be mounted on the spoiler to the bumper. The spoiler has notches but the bumper has no mount points. PIC 59 Install the oil filler caps on the motor now. PIC 60 PIC 61 The final step is to slide the body on to the chassis. It will stay without glue. Just carefully spread the sides of the car and slide them over the chassis and firewall. The car is now complete. Here is the front and rear of the finished build.

18 PIC 62 There are some extra decals of the lockdowns and a grille that goes to another version of this kit. Toss the excess parts into your parts bin for later use. PIC 999 OVERALL IMPRESSIONS: This car has been around a few years, 27 to be exact, and it is still a great kit. The parts fit and finish is good. My sample had almost no flash and the parts were clean and molding was crisp. The motor assembles easily and with very little work with aftermarket wiring it would be an excellent looking motor. The roll cage fits neatly together and there were no issues with warped parts. The overall chassis assembled easily and was fairly simple but looks good finished. The body was clean and no molding lines worth worrying about were found. The decals fit nicely and were simple to layout. Take your time and do one side and let that cure before moving on. Once complete the overall look is sharp. I had no issues building this one and it went together quite nicely. On a scale of 1 to 10 I rate this as a 9.