University College Ghent

Transcription

1

2 University College Ghent

3 University College Ghent Largest University College of Belgium 1 School of Arts 2 Concert halls 3 Faculties 4 Academic Bachelor programs 8 Campuses 10 Restaurants 23 Prof. Bachelor programs 49 Auditoria 450 Researchers Staff members M² sports hall Students Calais conference - Joris Cools

4 University College Ghent Faculty of Science & Nature Research & services Department Research area infrastructure Digital technologies Atmospheric plasma Digital printing Laser technology Digital coating Antropometrics - bodyscanning Digital apparel assembly 3D prototyping Functionalization Pre-treatment Finishing Tailor-made applications 3D bodyscanners Digital textile printers Digital garment printer Laser 3D virtual prototyping CAD GRINP-unit AS Coating Star Industrial corona 3D corona Calais conference - Joris Cools

5 University College Ghent Faculty of Science & Nature Research & services Department Research area infrastructure Coating Textiles UV coating Nano technology Smart coatings Yarn technology Weaving technology Jacquard technology Knitting technology Carpet technology Binding techology Technical textiles Non wovens Direct, transfer, laminate Several coating possibilities Curing: hot air, IR, UV Fantasy yarn machine Leno Braiding CAD / CAM Calais conference - Joris Cools

6 University College Ghent Faculty of Science & Nature Research & services Department Research area infrastructure Apparel Biochemics and water treatment Clothing comfort Work- and protection cloting Assembly techniques Proces analysis Sizing Pattern technology Tenders specs Antibacterial and antimycotic treatments and testing Enzymatic processes Ultrasonic welding Taping Sample cutter Quick line Different sewing machines CAD / CAM Membrane bioreactor Reversed osmose Ozon treatment Wateranalysis Calais conference - Joris Cools

7 SMARTFIT The use of anthropometric data for morphotype analysis to improve fit and grading techniques.

8 Key triggers to purchase TRENDY + WELL-BEING = PURCHASE + COMFORT Calais conference - Joris Cools

9 Key triggers to purchase But what about the FIT? Calais conference - Joris Cools

10 Same size, different body shape Bust 90 cm Waist 72 cm Low hip 96 cm Calais conference - Joris Cools

11 Comfort Calais conference - Joris Cools

12 Comfort 1,000 0,900 0,800 0,700 Rct Statisch 0,600 0,500 0,400 0,300 0,200 0,100 0,000 R Upper Arm L Upper Arm R Forearm L Forearm Chest Shoulders Stomach Back R Hip Front R Hip Back L Hip Front L Hip Back area (m²) 0,084 0,084 0,065 0,065 0,121 0,101 0,119 0,094 0,049 0,027 0,049 0,027 SK03 0,375 0,359 0,281 0,278 0,373 0,503 0,646 0,581 0,648 0,906 0,806 0,689 SK07 mean ,401 0,385 0,300 0,294 0,450 0,559 0,553 0,570 0,544 0,829 0,783 0,641 SK08 mean ,363 0,378 0,297 0,279 0,442 0,554 0,613 0,612 0,692 0,775 0,704 0, Calais conference - Joris Cools

13 Calais conference - Joris Cools

14 Calais conference - Joris Cools

15 Calais conference - Joris Cools

16 Calais conference - Joris Cools

17 Is the hourglass figure still relevant? Source: Alvanon 17

18 Fit coverage (women) Calais conference - Joris Cools

19 The essence of fit Correct: relevant to target market Consistent: no fluctuations Clear: communicate to the market Choose the right fit model Develop correct grade rules Calais conference - Joris Cools

20 Current methods to create sizes and assess fit Based on the dimensions of the ideal customer, represented by a fit model Manikin A Fit model Customer: right size, wrong fit Manikin B 1st sample 2nd sample 3rd sample 4th sample Time/cost 20

21 Current methods to create sizes and assess fit Adapted to other sizes by adapting incremental or proportional grading rules Body characteristics are not correctly addressed 21

22 Current methods to create sizes and assess fit Visual and two-dimensional evaluation comparing linear clothing and body measurements 22

23 1D versus 3D 23

24 Scanning campaign and data analysis 0,05 % of the Belgian population 1 Telmat SYMCAD body scanner 2 TC² NX-32 body scanners Socio-demographic survey 5 age groups Choice of primary and secondary dimensions Choice of intervals Age groups

25 Study of morphotypes Principal component analysis Defining body shapes 1,1 1,1 1, Borst/Heup 1 0,9 0, ,8 0,8 0,7 0,95 1 1,05 1,1 1,15 1,2 1,25 1,3 1,35 1,4 1,45 1,5 Heup/Taille 25

26 Allometric grading technique Establish a relationship between body form and grading technique Assign cardinal points to landmarks Grade according to body characteristics, not proportional (e.g. sloped waist) 26

27 Processing scan results into avatars and models 27

28 Technological objectives Database with raw anthropometric data Improved size charts Determine the number of relevant body shapes in the population Better insight in potential of 2D and 3D CAD 28

29 Technological objectives Improved coverage of fit: differentiate, execute and communicate different body shapes in apparel lines (allometric grading) Fit acceptable excellent not acceptable 29

30 Economic value Higher conversion rates at retail and online Improved full-price sell-through Reduced catalog or e-commerce returns 30

31 Economic value Shorter product development timelines; fewer samples Shorter time-to-market Less expensive product development More ecologic product development 31

32 Economic value Enhanced customer retention and brand loyalty Style and colour are the number one reasons a shopper is attracted to a particular garment Fit is the number one reason to buy it, return it or go back to a specific brand. 85 % of consumers go back to a specific brand because of the way it fits 32

33 Social value Improved fit for specific target groups (e.g. ageing population) Improved performance in sport 33

34 Social value Performance, safety and well-being are increased Improved protection Better thermophysiological comfort Fit & sizing strongly influence wear comfort and ergonomics (50 %) 34

35 Other research in 3D

36 Fire fighters Calais conference - Joris Cools

37 COVER Calais conference - Joris Cools

38 Anthropometric based estimation of adiposity Calais conference - Joris Cools

39 Olympic Gold Calais conference - Joris Cools

40 Body Labs (US) Calais conference - Joris Cools

41 Acknowledgements We would like to thank the Flemish agency for innovation by Science and Technology for financial support 41

42 Thank you for your attention Joris Cools Department of Fashion, Textile and Wood Technology 42