Instructions Texas & Pacific 10' 6" and Wabash 10' 4" Steel Rebuilds

Transcription

1 Ii... Instructions Texas & Pacific 10' 6" and Wabash 10' 4" Steel Rebuilds Snap off any protruding bubbles. If you find a warped piece, heat an oven to 150 degrees, turn it off and place piece on a tray inside oven for 10 minutes. The purpose of Sunshine Models is to provide you with a means of building distinctive cars without having to scratch build m. Tallthose cars of 10' 4" IH or higherrebuilds of USRA double shead wood boxcars and clones were owned by only a small number of railroads. The Santa Fe, Texas & Pacific, Wabash and Kansas City Sourn were principal roads with se cars. Of se, T&P and Wabash cars were unique in that ir origin was not in USRA cars, but USRA clones. WARNING The cast parts are best attached with ACC. It is a strong adhesive and dries quickly. However, it can easily attach a part where it is not supposed to be, including your fingers. Be careful. Place a few drops of ACC on a plate of glass and use a wire to transfer small amounts to areas to be joined. Wear safetv qlasses. The Texas & Pacific series was built from 1950 to 1959 at Marshall, Texas Shops, perhaps last rebuilding program. The cars came from road's series 40 ton USRA clones with cast steel side frame trucks. The rebuilders retained characteristic fish belly underframe but increased height by adding three ribs to 7/8 Murphy ends. The cars used 10 section steel sides with trapezoidal side sill brackets, postwar ribbed doors and Murphy paneled roofs. They had 10' 6" IH, 40 ton capacity and 3898 cu ft. interiors. 1. Wash castings in warm water and soap. Clean flash from edges.and. notches. Creation of a "square" boxis a critical step in a top quality model. Sight and "squareup" box as you proceed. A notch has been provided in end casting to assure proper depth. The alignment at top of car is most critical. Dry fit sides and ends to assure this alignment. The T &P shopped se cars with black ends and underframes, characteristic of road's paint schemes in those years. The cars got traditional T&P sanserif lettering, a style not seen on or roads. Flow ACC into notch of one end and add a side. Continue around boundry of car until you have created a box. The Wabash carssimilar to T&Pwere rebuilds of two series of double door clones with 7/8 Murphy ends. The Wabash rebuilds differed from T&P cars in application of prewar ribbed doors. The Wabash shops also used full width ends, unique on double shead rebuilds. The distinctive Vulcan trucks were retained from old cars, something that sets all Wabash rebuilds apart from or roads' rebuilds. These tall rebuilds were slotted in , , and series. All cars were rebuilt in 1940 except for 1947 rebuilding of series. The cars were 10' 4"IH and 3834 cu. ft. They were mainstay of Wabash steel boxcar fleet until late 1940s. They went into company service in fit floor. Sand length to fit. If you need increased width, shim with styprene strip. Develop a fit. Do not attach until later. 3. Cut and sand piece of.040 styrene sheet until it fits snungly into top of car. Cut cast ridge pole to inside length of car. Dry fit subroof and ridge pole. When satisfied that parts create a support for roof and assure straight sides, attach with ACC beginning at each end. Sight down ridge pole to assure no sag or bulge. Now secure subroof in center of car. ASSEMBLY The cars need about 2 ounces of weight if using plastic trucks and 1 oz if using metal trucks. The construction of T&P and Wabash tall rebuilds is a relatively simple process and within capabilities of most modelers. Casting occasionally produces air bubbles. Fill any cavities with putty and sand. 4. Slide floor into place, aligning coupler pad with bottom of ends. Attach with ACC. 1

2 i 5. The roof is cast in one piece to assure matching ribs and it must be divided. Using a sharp Xacto knife, score roof down center line. Bend roof to conform to roof line of ends. Recheck fit and make any modifications necessary. The roof will be recessed from sides by about 2". Attach with ACC, starting at one end and moving along car on each side. o 6. Drill and mount trucks. Measure a point on body bolster equidistant be'e e sides; do not guess. e z e a= _o=e :=...e c:;:::= _::qe 7.:::ee all p2::: os: a.? = ::2e &_ ca= 0 _, se a g fro t.l e extra _a der to extend height of side ladders to 8 rungs. For Wabash car, cut end ladder to 6 rungs. b. Apply 6 tabs of.010 x.040 styrene 6" long to back of side ladders at top, middle and bottom. c. Apply two 6" tabs of 2 x 2 styrene to back left side of end ladders. d. Mount side ladder with ACC, n end ladder. On T&P car, match end ladder rungs to those of side ladder from top downward. On Wabash car match end rungs to side ladder beginning at bottom. e. On Wabash car only, add drop grab irons below each side ladder. Also, add drop grabs in second rib from top above each end ladder. o 8. Apply drop grab irons: a. add 4" of.010 x.040 styrene to right side of each end, just outside of third rib from bottom. b. add two drop grabs on right of side, one foot in styrene and or in rib. c. add two grabs in end sill of each end, eir side of couplers. d. add two drop grabs on left end of each side. The grabs are parallel with third and sixth end ribs from bottom. The left seat for grabs is rivet strip at end of sides. e. Drill and insert two eyebolts on each end for a top mounted cut lever. o 9. Add trapezoidal side sill brackets under each junction of side sections. a. Cut sixteen 6" lengths of.010 x.040 styrene. Trim one corner at a 30 degree angle. b. On Wabash car only, extend bottom door guide with 8' of 2x2 styrene. 2 c. On Wabash car only, extend bolster. Cut four l' pieces of.010 x x.040. Place se on bottom edge of side sill parallel with sides and adjacent to body bolsters. They should extend 2" outward from side sill. o 10. Add type A stirrups. Drill.020 holes in bottom edge of side casting. Bend stirrups outward by 30 degrees before mounting. The T&P and Wabash cars used AB brake s stems. The T&P used Ajax power hand brakes and e abash used Miner power hand brakes. C;p View from below L ] : r. } r r ; CIL Z 'iiiiii' clf "B" Er o 11. Remove trucks and finish underbody brake system: a. Add three major AB brake parts according to diagram. b. Add three 4" strips of 2x2 to side of center sill to accept brake levers. c. Cut brake levers to 6" stubs and add above 2x2s with solvent. d. Use.010 plastic rod for air lines. e. Use.015 brass wire for rods. f. Add couplers and air hoses. g. Replace trucks. d "J

3 Wabash End p:[, ' ".I 11 T&PEnd r Add roof and corner walks: a. Create a corner grab from.015 wire Drill and insert in and eyebolts. corner walk. Trim and smooth underside. b. Smooth roof walk supports. c. Attach roof walk with ACC. d. Run two pieces of.010 x.030 styrene to support corner walk from under roof walk to sides. Leave enough length to bend over edges of roof. e. Mount corner walk on styrene and secure to tabs on roof. d. Soften styrene strip with solvent and bend over edge of roof. Attach to edge of roof with ACC. J= La. I" o) \.J '\ \ [J 14. Add diagonal supports under end of roof walk on Wabash car. Cut and hold until after painting for T&P car o;p::::: I=; LL PAINTING AND DECALING J: r"w' r"\ brake [J 13. n brake wheel. end tack boards. diagonal braces under.010 x.030 styrene. top mounted cut levers..:./ '\ g. Add h. Add i. Add step using j. Add The Wabash car and trucks were all boxcar red or oxide. The Wabash red seems to have been a lighter and more orange oxide color. The T&P car had a black underbody, trucks and ends with boxcar red roof and sides. I [J oj \.J [J 12. Detail ends: a. Add power hand brake between first and second rib from top. b. Add brake ventto right for T&P and left for Wabashof power hand brake in top rib. c. Add T&P brake step between fifth and sixth rib from top and Wabash step on fifth rib from top. d. Add bellcrank in bottom edge of end casting, directly under power hand brake. e. Run.010 plastic rod from brake vent to under end next to coupler. f. Run brass wire from end of power hand brake chain to bellcrank. PARTS Urethane castings of sides,underframe, brake step,tackboards, ends, roof ridge pole, roof and corner walk CalScale AB brake set, air hoses, bracket Decals for specific car Miner power hand brake (Wabash) 15. Paint car. Wash car thoroughly with liquid detergent and a toothbrush. Allow to dry. Also, paint both sides of a strip of.010 x.030 styrene red for T&P car to be used as diagonal supports for roof walk.af t e r painting ends black. We suggest painting T&P car red first, masking and n painting ends and underbody black. [J 16. Add decals for your car. Refer to discussion of cars on page one and photos on page four. We thank George Drake, Chet French Collias for ir help on this kit. and Joe LIST Evergreen.040 styrene subroof Evergreen.010 x.040,.010 x.030, 2x2 2 washers; 6 eyebolts; ladders specific grab irons for your car 4 Type A stirrups.015 brass wire and.010 plastic rod 3 i

4 Wabash and Texas & Pacific Rebuilds

5 Addendum to Instructions We've made a change to kit technology to improve car appearance. In step #5, ins tead of scoring roof from top and bending roof casting to car line, score it from below. Mark a line equidistant from sides and score first with sharp side of a hobby knife. Then enlarge line with back side of blade. By way, roof walk saddles have already been angled for proper position after bending roof x36: Super Chief Chief El Capitan Super Chief Chief (incomplete) The slogans that appear on ATSF freight cars on opposite side from map vary by car number. You may be interested to know assignment of ATSF slogans by car number when cars were new: Of course, most precise information for lettering your model is a photo of car during your period of interest. That's how we selected slogans for each kit. Numbers Bx32: Bx33: Slogans El Capitan For this and or information on Santa Fe lettering see Santa Fe Railway Painting and Lettering Guide, Vol 1, Rolling Stock, compiled by Richard H. Hendrickson. It is available through Santa Fe Modelers Organization, Inc. Look for a future release of an ATSF Bx36 with "Buy War Bonds" decals!