MATCHLESS SPINNING WHEEL

Size: px

Start display at page:

Download "MATCHLESS SPINNING WHEEL"

Cody Bridges
5 years ago
Views:

com Schacht Spindle Company 6101 Ben Place Boulder, CO 80301

1 MATCHLESS SPINNING WHEEL Single Treadle to Double Treadle Conversion Instructions Find out more at schachtspindle.com Schacht Spindle Company 6101 Ben Place Boulder, CO p f Schacht Spindle Company, Inc

2 MATCHLESS SPINNING WHEEL Single Treadle to Double Treadle Conversion PARTS LIST 2 5mm hex wrench 1 4mm hex wrench Rear bearing adjuster Adjuster bolt, short Adjuster bolt, long (w/lock nut & ) Double treadle crank Double treadle assembly 2 Footman assemblies (w/s & e-clips) Front leg bolt & Matchless aluminum, keyway Hollow axle pin TOOLS Phillips screwdriver Flat screwdriver Hand drill 1/8 drill bit External ring clip pliers Hammer or mallet Long nail or punch Scrap wood or books to prop wheel extra whorl whorl bobbin flyer 1. Remove the flyer assembly (flyer, whorl, bobbin), drive cord, and the whorl stored on the back of the wheel as shown in the instructions that came with your wheel. Please visit the product support page of our website (schachtspindle.com/productsupport/) for more information. 2

3 2. Remove the cotter pin holding the footman to the treadle yoke. 3. Remove the e-clip holding the footman assembly to the crank and axle. 4. Remove the black Phillips head screws located between the bolts on the rear legs. Note: Very old wheels may not have these screws. 5. Slightly loosen the mother-of-all (MOA) bolt, but do not remove it. Remove the two upper rear leg bolts. 6. Remove the upper front leg bolt from the top of the MOA. 7. Lay the wheel on its back, using books or blocks of wood to prop the rear legs so that the wheel is not resting on the crank and treadle. 8. Remove the lower front leg bolt from underneath the front edge of the treadles. Remove the front leg and the treadle support bar with attached treadle. 9. Lift out the drive wheel and the rear bearing support that holds the crank between the rear legs. Be careful not to catch the crank on the rear legs when removing. treadle yoke clevis pin treadle mother-of-all (MOA) bolt black footman upper front leg bolt cotter pin black crank front leg treadle black Phillips head screws upper rear leg bolts crank footman assembly mother-of-all (MOA) rear bearing support (between rear legs) lower front leg bolt treadle support bar 3

4 10. Locate the hollow pin in the grooved circumference of the drive wheel hub. Using a long nail or punch, drive the pin all of the way out of the wheel hub. Remove the pin from the wheel hub and crank, then carefully work the crank out of the wheel hub by hand. 11. Remove the crank from the rear bearing support and adjuster. Remove the rear bearing adjuster from the rear bearing support and replace it with the new bearing adjuster. Using the new short adjuster bolt, fasten through the rear bearing support and into the adjuster at the top. The head of the bolt will be visible on the rear bearing support. 12. Slide the assembled rear bearing support and adjuster onto the new crank. Slide the crank into the screw side of the drive wheel hub. 13. There are two holes in the double treadle crank, The Matchless uses the non-threaded hole closest to the crank arm. Line up the hole in the drive wheel hub with the proper hole in the crank. Position the crank with the bend to the left side as you face the wheel. The crank will extend beyond the front of the hub about 1/2". You may want to insert a small diameter finish nail, knitting needle, or skewer to help match up the holes. Drive the hollow axle pin through the hub and into the crank. 14. Replace the rear bearing support between the rear legs. With the bolts in your left hand and the caps in your right, slide the bolts into the left rear leg, through the rear bearing support, out the right rear leg and into the caps. Hand tighten. double treadle crank rear bearing support short adjuster bolt rear bearing adjuster hollow pin drive wheel hub Use this hole for Matchless Wheel spokes 4

5 15. Put the on the front leg bolt and insert the bolt through the treadle support bar. Screw the bolt into the aluminum keyway so that the bolt extends through the about 1/ Insert the front leg into the bottom of the MOA and at the same time, fit it onto the crank. Place the double treadle assembly (treadles attached to the treadle support bar) on the front leg, then fit the front leg onto the cross brace. Move the treadle support bar into place on the front leg. Fasten the front leg bolt hand tight. 17. Stand the wheel up on a flat and level surface with the front leg facing you. Check the level of the front of the treadles. To adjust the feet, loosen the lock nut and screw the foot up or down as needed, then re-tighten the lock nut. treadle support bar (part of double treadle assembly) front leg bolt aluminum keyway front leg cross brace front leg bolt lock nut foot 5

6 18. Turn wheel around so the back faces you. Tighten the lower rear leg bolts at the back brace, just to be certain they are tight. 19. Make sure that the end of the MOA only protrudes 1/8 from the rear legs. Tighten the front leg bolt on the top of the MOA. 20. Now push the rear bearing support at the point shown, moving the drive wheel forward until the space between the wheel hub and front leg is paper thin (A). The length of the rear bearing support should be parallel to the back side of the rear legs, and about 1/8 to the inside. Tighten the rear leg bolts a little, making it difficult but not impossible to move the bearing support. 21. Measure the distance between the drive wheel and the front side of each rear leg (B) on both sides of the wheel. Take the measurement at the point where the rear legs start to bend, about 9 off the floor. These measurements must be the same. To adjust, press forward or pull back on either side of the drive wheel. You can also adjust the drive wheel by moving the rear bearing adjuster from one side to the other side. Once the measurements are the same, clamp the adjuster to the rear bearing support at the bottom. Try not to let the crank interfere too much with the clamp. 22. Check to see that the space between the hub and front leg is still paper thin. If not, push the rear bearing support forward. mother-of-all (MOA) bolt upper rear leg bolts A B lower rear leg bolt rear bearing support and adjuster (adjuster attached underneath) B lower rear leg bolt push here rear center brace bolt front leg bolt mother-of-all (MOA) upper rear leg bolts B 6

7 23. Look at the wheel from the side. The distance between the drive wheel and the rear legs at the top and bottom of the drive wheel must be even. Choose a point on the wheel (for example, one of the glued joints or make a light pencil mark or use a sticky note). Measure the distance between that point and the rear leg at the top near the MOA (C). Rotate the wheel point downward until the joint reaches the curve of the rear leg (D, where the measurement was taken previously for the side to side measurement), and measure again. These two measurements (C & D) must match; if not, gently manipulate the drive wheel by moving the top or bottom of the wheel, push forward, or pull back, depending on the measurement until each is the same. Note: this measurement may vary a little from the side to side measurement. (Example: Top to bottom measurement may be 25/32", side to side may be 24/32"). 24. Tighten the bolts in rear legs and MOA. 25. Using a drill and 1/8" drill bit, drill through the bottom hole in the support bearing and adjuster. Secure the support bearing and adjuster with a screw, and lock nut. Remove the clamp. Re-check the side to side measurements (B) and make adjustments as necessary. Tighten the rear leg bolts. C D long adjuster bolt locknut 7

8 26. Set the wheel on the floor with the back facing you. Look down between the wheel and rear legs and between the wheel and the treadle. The spaces on each side should be parallel or even across. If the space between the rear legs and wheel are uneven, re-measure and adjust according to Step # Slide both footmen assemblies onto the crank with a black nylon on either side, and with the wood part of the footman facing away from the back of the wheel. Slide the first footman into the middle of the bend in the crank and secure with an e-clip on either side. Slide the second footman about 3/4" onto the crank and secure with an e-clip on either side. 28. Connect the footmen to the treadles. Insert the end of the footman into the treadle yoke. Put a black nylon on the clevis pin, insert the clevis pin through the yoke and footman, put another on the clevis pin, and secure with the cotter pin. Install the clevis pins with the cotter pins facing as shown. 29. Check out how the wheel works. Treadle a couple of times to insure smoothness. 30. If everything is satisfactory to this point, replace the two black Phillips head screws you removed in instruction 4. (Note: Very old wheels may not have these screws). 31. Lubricate and adjust your wheel as indicated by the original assembly instructions, you may download a copy from our website: schachtspindle.com/item/matchlessspinning-wheel/ footman footman clevis pin crank cotter pin

Final Assembly Instructions: Bikes with Threadless Headsets

Final Assembly Instructions: Bikes with Threadless Headsets Thank you for buying your new bicycle from L.L.Bean. Read these instructions carefully before beginning the final assembly. Prior to shipping,