Europe s Premier Clutch Brand. Licensed to Italy

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1 Europe s Premier Clutch Brand Licensed to Italy

2 UNSURPASSED QUALITY Rosso Forca is internationally known for its high quality in vehicle clutches, from accurate design, to high quality manufacture and unsurpassed durability with equaled customer support and after sales reliability. Rosso Forca has been dominating the European motor industry for decades and hence has become Europe s Premier Clutch brand being asked for by name. Rosso Forca identically produces almost all OEM clutches as fitted by motor vehicle manufacturer to the same levels of quality as the original in your motor vehicle. WARRANTY All Rosso Forca clutches are guaranteed for 13 months from date of purchase. Our warranty is limited for the replacement of the actual clutch only and does not cover any labour costs or incidental, accidental or consequential costs or damages. While all clutches undergo strict quality control, our warranty does not cover post despatch damage which may result from: Mishandling during shipping or transportation Incorrect purchases Incorrect fitment Other clutch related problems Incorrect driving Competitive use or abuse Rosso Forca will commission a manufacture & quality inspection before any claims are entertained. Unacceptable warranty claims result from incorrect fitment, driving and even vehicle defects and includes Driven Plate: Damaged hub splines Worn or damaged torsion damper springs Burnt out or broken facings Cover assembly: Worn or broken diaphragm fingers Burnt out pressure plate Bent or broken drive straps Release bearing: Worn or broken bearing In the event of a claim, please return to the spares shop purchased along with your original along with your original invoice in order to initiate claim within the 12 month period.

3 CITROEN CK333RF C2 / C3 / C4 CK325RF C4 / C5 1.6I 16V 2.0I (NEW) DAEWOO CK84RF CIELO 1.5 (NEW) CK85RF ESPERO / / KADETT 1.8 / 2.0 FIAT CK206RF UNO / SIENNA / CENTO 17.4MM 00- CK143RF UNO / SIENNA / PALIO 1.1 / 1.2 / 1.4 CK142RF UNO FIRE 1.1 FORD CK97RF BANTAM / MAZDA RUSTLER 1.4I / 1.6I CK37RF CORTINA / GRANADA / SIERRA CK179RF CORTINA / GRANADA / SIERRA V6 CK275RF COURIER / MAZDA B-SERIES 2.5D-22 SPLINE CK276RF COURIER / MAZDA B-SERIES 2.5D-23 SPLINE CK64RF COURIER / MAZDA B-SERIES CK131RF COURIER / MAZDA B-SERIES / MARATHON V CK33RF ESCORT 1.6 MK3 CK167RF LASER / MAZDA STING 1.3/ CK92RF LASER / METEOR / KIA SPORTAGE / MAZDA V CK100RF LASER / METEOR / MAZDA MM RB CK44RF LASER / METEOR / MAZDA MM RB CK290RF ROCAM 1.3/1.4/1.6 HONDA CK90RF BALLADE CK218RF BALLADE 150I ENCORE CK219RF BALLADE 160I / 160E LUXLINE 130 / V

4 HYUNDAI CK445RF H DT D4BF 2.6 D4BB CK233RF 2.5TD 2.6D CK239RF ACCENT 1.3 CK237RF ACCENT 1.5 / GETZ 1.3I / 1.4I CK357RF ATOZ 1.0 / 1.1 CK211RF ELANTRA 1.6 / 1.8 J1 SONATA CK238RF ELANTRA J2 / GETZ 1.6 CK232RF H DT / COLT 3.0 RODEO (NEW) ISUZU CK129RF KB CK147RF KB CK71RF KB C190 / C223 / G180Z / G200Z CK362RF KB250C 4JA1 CK263RF KB250DC 4JA1 / 4JA1-L CK164RF KB260 4ZE1 CK187RF KB280DT 4JB1 KIA CK356RF K2700D / PREGIO CK264RF SHUMA / RIO 2.3 4ZD1 2.5D 4JA1 MAZDA CK197RF ETUDE 160E / 180E MITSUBISHI CK449RF MITSUBISHI / COLT NISSAN CK3RF A12 / A14 CK295RF ALMERA V QG16DE CK284RF ALMERA 160 GA16DE / 180 QG18DE 2.8TD 4M40 (NEW)

5 NISSAN CK51RF EXA / LANGLEY E13 / E15 CK304RF HARDBODY KA20DE / KA24DE CK79RF ONE TONNER / HI-RIDER / SANI Z24S (NEW) CK113RF PICK UP A14-08 CK353RF SANI / 1 TONNER / HARDBODY 3.0 VG30E CK153RF SANI / 1 TONNER / HARDBODY TD27 CK96RF SENTRA / SABRE E16 / GA16D CK148RF SENTRA 1.4 GA16D 16V CK95RF SENTRA E13 CK30RF SKYLINE / 720 L18 / H20 OPEL CK83RF ASTRA / CORSA / KADETT 130I / 140I CK119RF ASTRA 160I / 160IE CK183RF ASTRA 160IE / 160IS CK286RF CORSA 1.4I CK287RF CORSA 1.6I CK241RF CORSA 1.7D UTILITY RENAULT CK321RF CLIO 1.2I 16V / 1.4I 8V TOYOTA CK17RF COROLLA / CRESSIDA 1.8 3T CK196RF CAMRY 200I/220SI CK165RF CONQUEST / TAZZ V 2E CK162RF CONQUEST / TAZZ 4AFE / 7AFE CK105RF CONQUEST V -91 CK69RF CONQUEST V RSI -91 CK166RF CONQUEST V RSI 92-93

6 TOYOTA CK305RF COROLLA / RUNX 140I 4ZZ-FE CK308RF COROLLA / RUNX 4A-GE20 / 2ZZ-GE VVTI CK18RF CRESSIDA 18R / 21R / 5M-E CK62RF HI-ACE 3Y CK112RF HI-ACE 4Y / INYATHI CK367RF HILUX / QUANTUM 2.7 2TR-FE CK160RF HILUX / VENTURE / STALLION 2.4D 2L CK273RF HILUX 2.4D 2L CK279RF HILUX 2.7 3RZ-FE (NEW) CK274RF HILUX 2.8 3L / 3.0 5L CK217RF HILUX 2.8D 3L CK355RF HILUX 3.0 D4D 1KZ-TE/1KD CK111RF VENTURE 2Y -00 CK465RF YARIS 1.0 KR-FE CK419RF YARIS VOLKSWAGEN CK27RF GOLF / JETTA / FOX 1.3 / 1.5 CK80RF GOLF / JETTA / FOX 1.3 / 1.5 CK204RF GOLF / JETTA 1.8 CTI/GSX/CSX CK108RF GOLF / JETTA II 2.0 GTI / CSI CK203RF GOLF / POLO 1.4/ CK82RF GOLF /JETTA CK81RF GOLF/JETTA CK36RF KOMBI / CARAVELLE 1.9I / 2.1I

7 ?? 1. Worn diaphragm spring fingers 6. Gearbox snout worn Release bearing seized Faulty release bearing Incorrectly adjusted release system Incorrect grade of grease or no grease used Damaged release bearing 2. Damaged inner bore on release bearing Incorrect grade of grease or no grease used Damaged gearbox snout 7. Fouling marks on driven plate segment rivets (VW, Rover) Fitting fault Release clip incorrectly fitted Incorrect circlip 3. Damaged bearing lugs 8. Tangential strap broken Damaged release system Play in the drive train Worn drive line coupling (BMW) Incorrect driving practice Tow starting in 1 st or 2 nd gear Wrong clutch fitted Engine rotation incorrect (Renault) 4. Broken pressure plate 9. Tangential strap bent Overhead pressure plate as a result of prolonged clutch slip Clutch slips due to worn facings Damage or seized release system Faulty slave cylinder Facings oil contaminated (replace faulty seals) 5. Clutch cover damaged Play in the drive train Worn drive line coupling (BMW) Incorrect driving practice Tow starting in 1st or 2nd gear Incorrect gear selection Improper storage Dropping the clutch prior to fitting Clutch not bolted up evenly and sequentially 10. Damaged spline profile Fitting fault Not aligned to flywheel correctly Incorrect fitting Gearbox input shaft and hub splines not correctly aligned prior to fitting Driven plate not centered Incorrect driven plate

8 ?? 11. Splines are damaged on one side and worn to a taper, torsion damper damaged Spigot (pilot) bearing defective Misalignment between engine and gearbox 16. Excessive driven plate runout (distorted driven plate) Driven plate not checked before fitting Driven plate bent during fitting (maximum permissible runout 0.5mm) 12. Damaged idle damper 17. Bearing and casing damaged Incorrect fitting Incorrect driven plate Overheating of the release bearing due to incorrect clearance causing loss of grease and resulting in the bearing breaking up 13. Driven plate segments sheared 18. Bearing carrier damaged Worn or missing spigot (pilot) bearing Misalignment condition between engine and gearbox Gearbox hung while fitting the clutch Release bearing seized on gearbox snout Damaged gearbox snout Worn or damaged release arm bushes 14. Burst facing Driven plate speed exceeded the burst speed of facing material. The clutch has been disengaged while traveling at a speed above the maximum speed for the gear selected. The damage is caused independently of engine speed, the critical factor is the speed of the gearbox input shaft 15. Facing burnt Oil contaminated facings Faulty oil seals Release system seized or faulty If the flywheel has been refaced the pot depth was not considered or the bolting surface not machined by the same amount 19. Overheating of pressure plate Oil on the facings (reduced coefficient of friction) Faulty oil seals Insufficient release bearing clearance Damaged release system (cable or hydraulic) Incorrect driving practice Allowing the clutch to slip for too long 20. Deep grooves and trace of over heating on the pressure plate Facings badly worn Incorrect release bearing clearance Faulty release system Clutch operating in a partially disengaged condition

9 ?? 21. Facing carbonised 25. Facing scored on the flywheel side Facing oil contaminated Defective oil seal Clutch allowed to slip for too long Flywheel not replaced Contct surface on the flywheel not re-machined 22. Facing oil contaminated 26. Diaphragm spring fingers bent Engine or gearbox oil seals defective Fitting fault Diaphragm fingers bent during fitting 23. Facing contaminated by grease 27. Flywheel scored Splines over greased Surplus grease was not removed Grease has been thrown out on to the facing material Flywheel not re-machined/ renewed 24. Facing material worn down to rivets Facing worn Vehicle being driven despite slippling clutch Bad driving practice Allowing the clutch to slip for too long Incorrect clutch assembly Faulty release mechanism 28. Torsion damper broken Incorrect driving practice Driving the vehicle in to high gear at low revs Grease/oil contaminated facing

10 GUIDELINES: INSTALLING YOUR NEW CLUTCH 1. Getting it right the first time. It is vital to diagnose the cause of clutch malfunction before clutch replacement in order to verify that your vehicle s clutch is the source of your problems: i.e. check hydraulic system - bearing free travel - clutch cable, oil leaks and check for any signs of red dust when old clutch is being removed. Any or all of these problems must be corrected before installing a new clutch. 2. Ensure clutch purchased is correct for the application. 3. Flywheel must be replaced or machined as shown below or warranty will be void and check spigot bearing or the pilot bush and replace if necessary. Please note pilot bush noises are more apparent when the engine and transmission systems are cold (i.e. in the mornings). 4. Before fitting, check the clutch for any shipping damage. Next clean the gear box main drive shaft splines, and then check that clutch disc slides freely on the shaft. Lightly grease the shaft splines with high melting point grease. Always ensure bell housing is degreased and is free of any dust and that fibres from the worn clutch are removed. If the clutch is a large size pull type clutch check the ID of the bearing head for correct spline size before installation. Lack of lubrication/dry splines will cause failure to disengage gears and also cause clutch drag. Never over lubricate/grease the spline of your clutch disc as grease will splatter during rotation of the engine and clutch. Contamination - grease/oil on the clutch disc friction material will cause the clutch to slip. 5. Check clutch release fork for cracks, check the clutch cable for stretch signs and check the release bearing guide tube for any wear. check the bearing on clutch release fork after installing the bearing on it. Move the fork forwards, and backwards i.e. in both directions to ensure bearing is secure and does not fall on any part (clutch fork or bell housing) before refitting gear box. 6. Place the clutch cover pressure plate assembly over the clutch disc, after checking that the disc is the right way around and the hub section of the disc does not fall on the casting of the clutch over assembly or the flywheel. A suitable clutch aligning tool will ensure correct alignment, assist in ease of installation and avoid spline damage. (Burrs on splines are a major cause of difficult gear disengagement). Ensure pressure plate dowels are aligned to the cover. Tighten bolts in a diagonal pattern and never use air tools to install a clutch cover assembly. Torquing down bolts in an uneven pattern in some instances could cause the lever strut to dislodge itself from the pressure plate casting. 7. When the pressure plate has been torqued down securely to the flywheel, ensure that the diaphragm tips (in the case of a lever type cover assembly, the release lever tips) are in a paralled or slightly upward position and do not go over centre of the parallel position. 8. Refit gear box, taking care not to bend the clutch disc. Never hang the gear box off the clutch disc or use any force to align gear box shaft. 9. Check all bell housing dowels are in correct position and tighten bell housing bolts. Ensure there is no dirt or foreign material between the mating surfaces of the engine and the bell housing. 10. Perform any clutch adjustments to vehicle manufacturer s specifications and always reset the clutch master cylinder push rod to cabin comfortable pedal release position (clutch taking up as close as possible to the floor prevent clutch shudder and in most cases preferred by vehicle drivers). Keep in mind that the diaphragm tip position has changed with the installation of the new clutch. 11. Always check the clutch cable if you are unable to obtain disengagement when a new clutch is fitted. Start off your checking process by replacing the cable. If it is a hydraulic clutch start by checking the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder, ensuring there is no air in the system. INSTALLATION GUIDELINES Remove the Old Clutch 1. Unhook the positive battery cable, the clutch cable or hydraulic slave cylinder to get the transaxle ready for easy removal. Eliminate anything that may hinder your efforts, including exhaust pipes and the speedometer. 2. Secure your car in a safe position before jacking up the front end. 3. Stabilise the engine with a jack below the oil pan. Remove the transaxle by undoing at least one engine mount. 4. Separate the engine from the transaxle by removing the bolts that surround the flywheel bell housing. 5. Push the transaxle away from the engine until the input shift clears the pressure plate. 6. Disengage the bolts surrounding the pressure plate and take it and the clutch disc out. Check to see if the flywheel s friction surface is scored, checked or has hot spots. Remove, machine and reinstall the flywheel, if needed. 7. Examine the pilot bearing (bushing) located at the flywheel s centre to be sure the needle bearings are lubricated and that there s no galling. Also look for any oil leaking around the rear main engine seal.

11 Replace the Clutch 8. Follow the instructions for replacing your car s clutch carefully to avoid having to remove the transaxle. 9. Check that the transaxle s input shaft isn t leaking; replace if needed. 10. Take out the flywheel and the old seal and install a new seal. Install a New Clutch 11. Clean the crankshaft flange before putting in the flywheel. With the flywheel on top of the flange, secure the bolts in a star formation to the specified torque for your vehicle. 12. Install the clutch disc and pressure plate. Prior to putting in the transaxle, attach the new release bearing to the release fork. The fork should move freely. 13. Hoist the transaxle into position and move it forward until the input shaft glides into the clutch disc s spindled hole. Do not apply force. 14. Reinstall any bolts or mounts that were removed to replace the car s clutch. Grab the transaxle, release the jack and lower your vehicle. 15. Investigate replacing your car s clutch cable. If you don t replace the cable at least adjust it for the right amount of free-play. 16. Confirm that your clutch s self-adjusting action is performing correctly by depressing the slave cylinder s piston into it bore. 17. Drive your car to be sure your clutch is working properly. POINTS TO DOUBLE CHECK No oil on flywheel surface (grind surface if needed) Check pilot bearing Check for Engine oil leakage Grease forks and quil correctly Release bearing must slide correctly Clean clutch housing Installation pins of engine and gear box must be in good condition Tighten the mounting bolts gradually and evenly by diagonal section to avoid distorting the cover Beware of flywheel slide Check Spline fit Use a centering tool Check strap condition Check clutch cable

12 Abu Dhabi F1 23 November 2014

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