SOC-Meter Kit Building R9b

Transcription

1 Installation The SOC-Meter fits nicely on the shelf behind the cup holders. You can also place it above the Nav, or on the dash, secured with Velcro. Before driving, carefully route the OBD cable so that it is impossible for the cable to interfere with your feet or the accelerator and brake pedals. It is usually necessary to use a good USB-to- RS232 adapter with the logging port and CAN- Do, because of the high baud rate (115200). A poor adapter will often create garbage data. Features / Operation SOC-Meter Kit Building R9b The upper toggle switch is the Power switch. It has three positions: Up: Always-ON Center: OFF Down*: Auto-ON The lower toggle switch selects the CAN bus. Is has three positions: Up: Car-CAN bus Center: OFF (no CAN bus selected) Down*: EV-CAN bus * The normal operating position of the two toggle switches is Down, for Auto-ON Power and selecting the EV-CAN bus. The SOC-Meter s Always-ON power mode (power switch Up ) can be useful DURING Charging. But, remember to switch back OFF or to Auto-ON so that the LEAF s 12V battery will not become depleted. Normally (using Auto-ON), there should be no need to disconnect the OBD cable unless you take the LEAF in for service. Then, it might be best to remove the SOC-Meter from the car. After a CAN bus is selected with the toggle switch, the value displayed can be changed using the two pushbuttons. Related values are grouped together. See below for the groups and values available on each CAN bus. Tap (press briefly) the red (left) pushbutton to switch to the next mode (group of values). Tap (press briefly) the black (right) pushbutton to switch to the next value in the selected group. EV-CAN Bus Mode 1: SOC (State of Charge) Data Values: 1. SOC-Percent -- Shows the SOC value as a percent (for example 81.1 ). 2. SOC-Raw -- Shows the same SOC value in its raw form, roughly 0 to 281. Mode 2: Battery Pack Output Values: 1. Current -- Positive values are Amps output (for example, 27.3 ); negative values are Amps input, e.g. during charging or regenerative braking. 2. Voltage -- Values are typically between 300 and 400 volts (for example, ). 3. Power in kw -- Output is shown with a P prefix (for example, P24.3 ); input, e.g. from charging or regen, is shown with a C prefix (for example, C 8.3 ). Car-CAN Bus There are no values for the Car-CAN bus at this time (in firmware version F1.08). Page 1 of 10 2/13/12 12:4 PM

2 Build Instructions Caution: Do not attempt this assembly unless you are sufficiently skilled to do it safely. If there are any problems, please check the SOC-Meter Assembly/Test Problems thread on the MyNissanLeaf.com forum (in the Leaf CANBus subforum). Please post there to ask questions. Part Inventory Compare the parts in your kit against this list to make sure that you have everything and can identify each part. OBD cable (6-foot or 9-foot) Project box with lid, and 4 screws AVR-CAN board, flashed for SOC-Meter Display: 4-digit 7-segment LED Filter frame, with 2 screws Colored filter (matching display) Red-cap pushbutton Black-cap pushbutton Toggle switch, on-off-on, SPDT (single-pole, double-throw; 3 connections) (Power switch) Toggle switch, on-off-on, DPDT (double-pole, double-throw; 6 connections) (CAN Selector) 9-pin D connector, female, solder-style pins Zener diode, 4.7v, 5 Watt Cable tie (not in older Kits) Velcro squares (4 pairs) Electrical tape, black Glue, RTV Clear * Documents available as PDF files at: Tools Six wires with a crimped-on connector on one end, each about 3": Green, Red, Orange, Gray, and two Black Five plain wires (no crimp connector), about 3": Black, White, Gray, and two Red 3/32" diameter heat-shrink tubing, about 6" (13 x 3/8 ) 1/16" diameter heat-shrink tubing, about 4" (8 x 3/8 ) 1x6 crimp connector housing 2x4 crimp connector housing Hole-cutting template* Wiring diagram* These instructions* Optional logging port parts: 9-pin D connector, female, solder-style pins 3 plain wires (solid core): yellow, green, black Two 4-40 machine screws, two lock washers, two nuts Logging Port Installation diagram* The following is a list of tools that you may find useful when building your kit. Note that this list does not include the tools necessary to cut the enclosure box. Not all of these tools are required, but most are handy. Safety glasses Soldering iron (low wattage), and solder Wire cutters and wire strippers Needle-nose pliers Heat tool (or hair dryer) -- for heat-shrink tubing Cardboard -- for holding switches while soldering Prepare the Enclosure Box The instructions below describe the various cuts for the box. Ruler Scissors Small screwdrivers (Phillips and flat-blade) Small adjustable wrench X-acto knife or small files -- for touching up box cutouts The hole-cutting template included with the kit can be taped over the box. If you print a copy yourself, check that your printer is making the template the correct size (when printing, be sure page scaling is set to none, not shrink or fit to page ). Make sure that both of the printed rulers closely match a real ruler. Apply the Hole-Cutting Template 1. Cut out the template along the outer lines only, to form a cross. 2. Remove the cover (the lid ) from the box. 3. Carefully fold (a sharp crease) the template on the 8 lines where the template goes over the thin edge (rim) of the box, and gently (lightly) fold the template on the four lines around the Front. 4. Place the template over the box, with the ends of the cross wrapping into the box on the ends and sides of the box, getting the folded ends (tabs) of the cross inside the box. 5. Make sure that the lines on the template exactly match the edges of the box. 6. Tape the tabs inside the box to hold the template securely in place. Putting the lid on the box can help. Page 2 of 10 2/13/12 12:4 PM

3 Drilling and Cutting Holes Note: You might be tempted to center-punch (but very gently to avoid cracking the box!) to mark the hole centers, but using an awl is best. You might score (cut) centerlines at each hole, and score along the inner edges of the rectangular slot for the Display (if not pre-cut). Then, use these marks as guidelines (or centering dots) in case the paper template is ripped off while drilling. However, it is safer to remove the template before drilling. All the larger holes should be drilled initially with a small drill (like 1/8 inch or smaller) to provide a pilot hole, then drilled out with a 1/4 inch drill. Use these 1/4 inch holes for the two toggle switches on the left side. Use a 9/32 inch diameter drill for the pushbuttons (which go into the two holes on the top). I used a 9/32 inch hole for the OBD cable. Remember, too-small holes can usually be made larger, but it is hard to shrink too-large holes. Here, an exact fit for the pushbuttons and toggle switches is not critical, and an easy-insert size works best for them. The hole for the OBD cable should be snug. Holes that are very close to the desired size can be enlarged slightly with a file, but using the correct size drill is a lot easier. 1. Carefully drill 2 holes in the Top, as indicated. You might want to check for fit with the two pushbuttons. 2. Carefully drill 3 holes in the Left End, as indicated. Check for fit: The two holes near the front are 1/4 inch for the toggle switches. The hole near the edge of the box should be just barely large enough for the OBD cable s outer insulation (the black part of the OBD cable). Note that this should just be a simple hole for now. 3. Carefully cut (or finish the corners of) the slot to just fit the Display. Make trial fits as you go. At first, just cut the white space and leave the lines, because it is a lot easier to make the hole bigger than to make it smaller. If you have a coping saw available, you might drill two holes in diagonal corners (as shown), put the blade through a hole, and cut along the inner edges of the adjoining sides. If not, you might drill more holes, producing a very ragged hole. Scoring the box with a sharp hobby-type knife (like X-acto) is often useful. A pre-cut (milled) slot (with 1/8 radius corners) is offered as an option. 4. It is probable that you will need to fine-finish the slot (to just fit the Display) with a sharp hobby knife of some sort, or possibly a file. However, be very careful. No cutting fingers, hands, or other body parts, please. 5. Place the holes for mounting the Filter Frame: a. Place the display into the slot to help with visualization. Make sure it s right-side up (decimal points at the bottom). Hold it in place with tape if necessary. b. Center the Filter Frame around the Display slot. The vertical centering is not critical, but I center the frame vertically in the face of the box, just for cosmetics. The horizontal centering is critical. Center the frame horizontally so that the digit at either end of the display is equally visible. The frame is a tight fit horizontally. c. Without moving the frame, carefully mark the box s plastic at the center of each frame-mounting hole, using an awl or other sharp object. d. Remove the frame (and, optionally, remove the Display, if it is not already mounted). e. Carefully drill two 1/16 inch diameter holes, one centered at each awl mark. 6. If you will be installing the optional logging port, cut the D-shape slot in the right side of the box. Drill the 1/8- inch holes shown in the Hole Template, including the two mounting holes. Add as many extra holes as is necessary (usually the 9 shown) to aid in cutting out the D-Slot (to fit the larger solder side of the 9-pin D-sub Logging Port connector). 7. Add a small V-shape cut to the OBD hole, tapering in from the edge, as shown in the picture to the right. The opening where the bottom of the V joins to the larger hole just needs to be large enough to allow the small OBD wires to pass through; they can be directed into the large opening through this funnel, at which point the cable will be able to slide into the box through the hole. To form the V, carefully use the corner of a square (or rectangular) file, a knife, or wire cutters. Do not crack the box. 8. You can create labels for the pushbuttons and switches. The labels in the photos on the first page were created with a P-Touch label printer using a cartridge with white print on clear tape with extra-strength adhesive (TZe-S135). Page 3 of 10 2/13/12 12:4 PM

4 Soldering There are 23 solder connections to make. Refer to the Wiring Diagram while doing this soldering. Note: Use enough, but not too much heat, especially on the pushbuttons and toggle switches. Note: When stripping wires, be very careful to avoid nicking the wires, especially on the fine stranded wires. Display Board Display Wires with a crimp connector on one end: red, black, green Note: There appears to be a very thin plastic strip covering the face of the display. Its purpose is not yet known (by me), so best to leave it there for now. If necessary or desirable, it can be removed later. 1. On the plain end (no crimp connector) of each wire, strip off about 1/8 inch of insulation. 2. For each wire (I lightly tin each wire before soldering), insert the stripped end from the back of the display board toward the front (the side of the board with the display). Solder the wires from the front side. a. Solder the Red crimp-wire to VCC. b. Solder the Black crimp-wire to GND. c. Solder the Green crimp-wire to RX. Pushbuttons Both pushbuttons (black-cap and red-cap) Wires with a crimp connector on one end: black, gray, orange Plain wire: black Heat-shrink tubing, 3/32" diameter (four 3/8 long pieces) 1. If not already done, carefully bend the solder lugs of each pushbutton 90 degrees (at a right angle) out to the side, to increase clearance for the display board, which will be just below the bottoms of the pushbutton. 2. Strip about 3/16 inch of insulation from the plain end (no crimp connector) of each wire. (One end on each of the three crimp-wires, both ends on the black plain wire.) Gently twist the bundle of small strands of wire with your fingers to twist them together a bit. I usually tin each bundle lightly. 3. Use needlenose pliers to bend the exposed wire at the midpoint, forming an L shape. For each of the connections below, insert the specified wire through the eye in the lug and use needlenose pliers to bend the sides of the L together, forming a U shape around the lug. Do not wrap the wire any further than a U. You can hold the pushbutton in place while working by mounting it in a hole punched in a piece of cardboard. I use the bottom of an empty tissue box as my soldering platform, with a hole to hold each item while soldering. 4. Make two connections to the black-cap pushbutton: a. Solder the stripped end of the Gray crimp-wire to one solder lug. b. Solder the stripped end of the Black crimp-wire and one end of the black plain wire to the other solder lug. This is often easier if you twist the two ends of the wires together first. c. Slide one piece of heat-shrink tubing over each connection (gently feed both black wires through together). Position the tubing to cover as much of the lug and solder joint as possible, then heat to shrink the tubing in place, as shown in the picture above. 5. Make two connections to the red-cap pushbutton: a. Slide one piece of heat-shrink tubing over the free end of the Black plain wire. Move it as far away from the free end as possible (so it s not in the way when soldering). b. Solder the free end of the Black plain wire to one solder lug of the red-cap pushbutton. c. Solder the stripped end of the Orange crimp-wire to the other solder lug of the red-cap pushbutton. d. Slide the last piece of heat-shrink tubing over the orange wire. Position both pieces of tubing to cover the lugs and connections, then heat to shrink the tubing. Page 4 of 10 2/13/12 12:4 PM

5 Crimp-Pin Housings Carefully plug the 6 crimp-wire pins into the two crimp-pin housings. Double-check (see the wiring diagram) to be careful to get the correct wire into the correct hole. If necessary, the crimp-pin (female) is easy to remove by lifting the black plastic tab that keeps it locked (inserted). If the pin is oriented correctly, it slides in easily, and the tab clicklocks it into position. The diagrams are drawn showing the side where the wires enter (see picture at the right). Housing 1x6 gets three crimp-pin wires: (none) (none) Orange Gray (none) Green Housing 2x4 gets three crimp-pin wires: Black from pushbutton (none) (none) (none) Black from display Red (none) (none) OBD Cable OBD Cable Warning: The wire colors listed below are from the cable part number (or ) spec sheet (from The colors are likely to be different if you are using a different cable (refer to the wiring diagram for pin-number mapping). 1. If desired or necessary for your application, cut the OBD cable shorter (not recommended). Usually, any extra cable can be hidden up inside the driver s foot-space, perhaps over the steering column, so it is not necessary to shorten even the 9-foot cable. 2. Only 8 of the 16 wires coming out of the OBD cable will be used. Identify the used wires, and keep them separate for later use: Black, Brown, Red, Green, Gray, White, White/Black, and Green/Black are used. 3. Identify the unused wires, and cut off the exposed bare wire ends (not the entire wire, just the bare portion): Purple, Pink, Orange, Yellow, Yellow/Black, Blue, Light Blue, and Blue/Black are unused. 4. Cut the Brown and Black bare-wire end, if necessary, to approximately 3/16 inch of exposed wire. 5. Using the wiring diagram and/or picture on the right, gently separate the wires into three groups based on where they will connect (two toggle switches and one D connector). It s best not to braid them; move wires around to minimize overlapping. 6. Bend the 8 unused wires back against the cable to keep them out of the way for now. 9-pin D connector 9-pin D connector, female, solder-style pins OBD cable: (we will solder the Black and Brown wires) Three plain wires: Gray, White, and Red (one of the two Red plain wires) Heat-shrink tubing, 1/16" diameter, 5 pieces, each 3/8" long 1. Strip the insulation from both ends of all three plain wires; about 3/16 inch on each end. Page 5 of 10 2/13/12 12:4 PM

6 2. Put a piece of the 1/16 heat-shrink tubing over the Black wire and one over the Brown wire. Then, make the following connections: Tip: Work from left to right along one row, then flip the connector around and work left to right along the other row, e.g. pins 6, 7, 9, then 3, 2. (If soldering left-handed, work right to left.) pin wire 2 Gray plain wire 3 Brown from OBD cable 6 Black from OBD cable 7 White plain wire 9 Red plain wire 3. Slide three more of the 1/16 tubing pieces over the Gray, White, and Red wires, heating and shrinking all 5 pieces over the just-soldered D pins and the attached wires. Slide the tubing as close as possible to the D connector, and be careful to avoid burning yourself. 4. The photo on the previous page has a larger piece of shrink-tubing covering all five wires, but since we have the smaller shrink-tubing on all five of the wires, the larger tubing is not really necessary. SPDT Power Toggle Switch SPDT Toggle Switch (3 connections) OBD cable: (we will solder the Green and Red wires) Plain wire: Red Heat-shrink tubing, 3/32" diameter (three pieces, each about 3/8" long) Note: Refer to the pushbutton section above for specific directions on how to solder wires to lugs. 1. Locate the Green and Red wires from the OBD cable and slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing over each of them. 2. Strip about 3/16 of insulation from both ends of the plain Red wire. 3. Solder the OBD cable s Green wire to the switch s top lug. Too much heat will MELT the switch. Orientation is arbitrary; pick one of the outer lugs and call it the top, but then put an X on the right side of the switch as shown in the wiring diagram. 4. Solder the Red plain wire to the switch s center lug. 5. Solder the OBD cable s Red wire to the switch s bottom lug. 6. Slide the tubing on the Red and Green OBD wires over the lugs. Insert the remaining tubing piece over the Red plain wire and slide it to cover the center lug. Make sure all three pieces of tubing are positioned to cover the lugs and connections, then heat to shrink the tubing. DPDT CAN-Select Toggle Switch DPDT Toggle Switch (6 connections) OBD cable: (we will solder the White, Gray, White/Black, and Green/Black wires) Plain wires: White, Gray -- one end of each of these is already soldered to D connector Heat-shrink tubing, 3/32" diameter (six pieces, each about 3/8" long) 1. Locate the four wires on the OBD cable and slide a piece of heat-shrink tubing over each of them. 2. Slide the remaining two pieces of heat-shrink tubing over the loose ends of the White and Gray wires that are soldered to the D connector. 3. Make the following solder connections, as viewed from the solder lug side. Too much heat will MELT the switch. It works well to work from top to bottom on one side, then do the other side (top to bottom). Which side to do first depends on right- vs. left-handedness and how you re holding the switch. Put an X on the right side of the switch (as seen from the solder-lug side). White wire from OBD cable Gray wire from OBD cable White wire from D connector Gray wire from D connector White/Black wire from OBD cable Green/Black wire from OBD cable Page 6 of 10 2/13/12 12:4 PM

7 4. Slide the 6 pieces of heat-shrink tubing over the six lugs. Make sure all six pieces of tubing are positioned to cover the lugs and connections, then heat to shrink them in place. Zener Diode Zener diode large ceramic 4.7v 5 watt (not the tiny glass Zener diode which was included in older Kits) Red wire connected to the D connector Red wire connected to the SPDT toggle switch Note: We are not using heat-shrink tubing here because the Zener needs good air flow in order to remain cool. 1. Trim (shorten) the leads on each side of the Zener diode, leaving about 1/2 inch of lead on each side. 2. Bend each Zener lead at its midpoint, forming an L shape, or even a little further to make a V. 3. Bend the stripped (and lightly tinned) end of each Red wire into a similar L shape. 4. Make the following connections by interlocking the appropriate wire and Zener lead, then bending the lead and wire into U shapes with needlenose pliers. When soldering, try to keep the Red wires at around 90 degrees to the lead of the Zener for ease in assembling into the box later. See the picture above. a. IMPORTANT: Solder the end of the Zener with the band to the Red wire connected to the toggle switch. b. IMPORTANT: Solder the end of the Zener without the band to the Red wire coming from the D connector. Logging Port (an optional extra, not included in all Kits) 9-pin D connector, female, solder-style pins Plain wires (solid core): yellow, green, black -- each about 3 inches long Heat-shrink tubing, 1/16" diameter, three pieces, each about 3/8" long Hardware: two machine screws, two lock washers, and two nuts 1. Strip the 3 wires about 3/16 inch on one end (to be soldered to the logging port D connector), and about 1/2 inch on the other end (to be pushed into the hole of the existing female connector on the AVR-CAN board). 2. Solder the three wires (3/16-inch ends) to the logging port connector: pin wire 2 yellow 3 green 5 black 3. Slide a piece of the small shrink tubing over each wire, and heat it in place over the D-pin and the connected wire. 4. Carefully bend the wires as shown in the Logging Port Installation page. Plug Together to Make a Working Meter Circuit At this point, you might want to carefully test your SOC-Meter before mounting it into the project box. 1. Make AVR-CAN board connections a. Plug the 1x6 and 2x4 crimp-pin housings into the AVR-CAN board s EXT2 (not EXT1) header. Please see the Wiring Diagram for exact location. Getting these housings plugged in correctly is critical. b. Carefully plug the 9-pin (female) D connector (not the Log Port) into the male AVR-CAN D connector. 2. Check all the connections a. Especially check the power-in connections and wires! b. Make sure that there are no unintended connections (shorts) anywhere. 3. Test your circuit: Follow the steps in the SOC-Meter Test Procedure section below. 4. Unplug the two crimp-pin housings and D connector from the AVR-CAN board to prepare for assembly into the box. Note that you should grip the D connector housing -- not the wires -- when unplugging. Page 7 of 10 2/13/12 12:4 PM

8 SOC-Meter Test Procedure Perform these steps to ensure that your SOC-Meter is working correctly. If you do this test before installing into the box, repeat these steps after assembly is complete. If a trial fails, stop and fix it. Tip: For each trial, read the step fully to know what to expect, then perform the indicated action. 1. Turn the LEAF completely OFF. 2. Set both of the SOC-Meter s toggle switches in the center position (Power OFF, no CAN selected). 3. Trial: Plug OBD cable into LEAF, being prepared to unplug quickly. Watching the SOC-Meter Display, nothing should happen. 4. Trial: Observing the Display, turn the SOC-Meter s Power ON (move the switch Up to Always-ON) for one second and then back OFF (center position). You should have seen 0000 on the Display. 5. Trial (set display baud rate): Holding down the two pushbuttons (Red and Black), turn the SOC-Meter on again, releasing the pushbuttons after 4 seconds. Watch for the Firmware Version (like F1.08 ) to display. Possibly strange characters will appear this one time on the display as the display s baud rate gets set. The display should end with ---- showing. 6. Trial: Power OFF, and then ON again. There should be no strange characters this time, the F1.08 should show for a second, and then the display should show Trial (pushbutton test): Press the Black (right) pushbutton and the right - should jump up. Press the Red (left) pushbutton and the left - should jump up. Turn the SOC-Meter power switch OFF. 8. Trial (Auto-Power): Move the SOC-Meter s power switch down to the Auto-ON position. Nothing should happen. 9. Trial: With your foot off the LEAF s brake, and fob nearby, press the LEAF s Power button once to enter ACC1 mode. The Nav screen should light up, but the SOC-Meter should do nothing. 10. Trial: Press the LEAF s Power button a second time to enter ACC2 mode. The SOC Meter should come ON automatically, ending with ---- displayed. This means that the SOC Meter is waiting to detect an active CAN bus. 11. Trial (select a CAN bus): Switch the SOC Meter s CAN-Select toggle switch Up to connect the Car-CAN bus to the Meter s input. The ---- should disappear quickly, within a second, and 0.0 should be displayed because the Car-CAN bus does not have any SOC-messages to detect and display (in firmware F1.08). 12. Trial: Switch the CAN-Select down to select the EV-CAN bus. You should continue to see 0.0 until the first soc -message is detected (up to about 6 or 10 seconds), then the LEAF s SOC (shown as a percentage, something like 80.7 ) should appear, the actual value depending upon your LEAF s State Of Charge. 13. Trial: Tap the Black pushbutton and the Display should change format to show the raw SOC-message data (like 282 at percent or 0 at 0.0 percent). 14. Trial: Tap the Black pushbutton again to flip back to the percentage-soc format. 15. Trial: Tap the Red pushbutton to switch from SOC Mode to Battery Pack Output Mode. Use the black pushbutton to cycle through displaying values for amperage, voltage, and power. 16. Trial: Turn the LEAF OFF, and the SOC Meter should go OFF. Before driving, carefully route the OBD cable so that it is impossible for the cable to interfere with your feet or the accelerator and brake pedals. Page 8 of 10 2/13/12 12:4 PM

9 Physical Assembly into the Project Box 1. Place the box face-down on the table, so that the inside of the box is accessible. Orient it so that the two holes for the pushbuttons are at the top. 2. Install the two pushbuttons through holes in the top of the meter box. Looking at the box from the back, the black-cap pushbutton is on the left, and the red-cap pushbutton is on the right. Fasten each button with just the hex nut outside and no other hardware inside (the box is thick here, so do not use the lock washers). 3. Install the Display: a. Place the display in the slot that you have prepared for it. The wires should be at the top. Make sure that the front of the Display is flush with the front of the box (both of which are resting on the table s surface). If it is not a tight fit, adjust the placement as desired (before gluing in the next step). b. Use some of the RTV glue to hold (after curing) the display in the position you want: Squeeze a bead of glue along the left and right edges of the display, touching the ends of the display and the inside of the box. Use a toothpick to spread it around the four corners, trying to get it to cover a larger area of the box (for better adhesion) and a bit more of the display (just around the corners), and create a not-too-thick layer so that it will cure faster. Note: It takes about 24 hours for this RTV rubber to cure. Also, after opening the tube, the remaining contents might not last very long, possibly only a few days, depending upon how well it is capped, and the local humidity. Yes, the water vapor in the air cures this rubber glue. It is not strong glue. 4. If you are installing the optional logging port, mount it now: a. If not already done, bend the 3 wires into an S shape as shown in the Logging Port Installation diagram. b. With the logging connector on the outside of the box, feed the three wires through the D-Slot into the box. c. Attach the logging connector to the outside of the box, inserting the two machine screws from the outside of the box and putting the lock washers and hex nuts on the inside of the box. 5. Insert the OBD cable: Hold the OBD cable so that the switches and wires are on the left, and the black portion extends to the right. Feed the small wires through the V-notch funnel into the hole for the cable (on the right side of the box as it sits face-down on the table). Slide the cable through the round hole so that the black insulation extends into the box. 6. Install the two toggle switches in the holes in the right side of the box (as currently oriented). For each switch, leave one hex nut (screwed snugly down) on the inside, and put a lock-washer and hex nut outside (do not use the flat washers). Rotate the cable if necessary. Position the switches with the X marks visible. a. The SPDT power switch goes in the upper hole, oriented with the green wire at the top. b. The DPDT CAN-selector switch goes in the lower hole, oriented with the white and gray wires at the top. 7. Using the electrical tape, tape the ends of the 8 unused wired into two groups of 4, with the ends separated from each other and insulated from anything outside the tape. Tuck these two groups of taped wires into the box. 8. Fasten the cable tie around the black portion of the OBD cable, very near its edge (where the wires are). Pull the cable tie tight so that it won t slide along the cable. This will provide strain relief for the cable. Slide the cable back out until the cable tie rests against the inside of the box. See the picture on the next page. 9. Position the 9-pin D connector in the box near where it will connect with the AVR-CAN board. 10. Adjust the Zener diode s Red wires so that one of them wraps around the lower right lid mounting post in the box and the diode rests along the bottom. This will hold the warm Zener away from the switches and the D connector. The picture on the right shows a close-up of this; photographs on the next page show it in context. 11. Check all visible connections and wires for possible shorts, especially the display, pushbuttons, and the power-in connections. Page 9 of 10 2/13/12 12:4 PM

10 12. Make connections to the EXT2 header on the AVR-CAN board: a. Locate the EXT2 (not EXT1) header on the AVR-CAN board. Orient the board so that it matches the Wiring Diagram, with EXT2 along the bottom. Note that there is a black plastic shroud around the header pins. b. Mark the shroud next to the leftmost 6 pins on the top row and the rightmost 4 pins on both rows, as illustrated in the photo on the right. Verify that the marked pins correspond to the connections shown on the Wiring Diagram. If you do not mark the pins in this step, be extra careful to verify the pin alignment when you connect the crimp-pin housings below. c. Rotate the AVR-CAN board so that the EXT2 header is at the top and hold it near the bottom of the box, as shown in the second photo. d. Plug the 2x4 and 1x6 crimp-pin housings into the EXT2 header, using the markings as a guide. Refer to the Wiring Diagram for orientation and placement of the housings. Getting these correct is critical. Be aware that in this configuration, the board is rotated 180 degrees relative to the drawing! e. Check to make sure that the housings are aligned with the marks on the shroud. Note that there is a significant gap between the board s pins and the side of the shroud. The crimp-pin housings should not be up against the short side of the shroud. 13. Flip the AVR-CAN board up and onto the box, leaving it sitting loosely on top, so that the EXT1 and EXT2 headers are under the board, with EXT2 at the bottom. 14. If you are installing the optional logging port, insert its three wires into the appropriate holes of the connector on the AVR-CAN board, as indicated on the Logging Port Installation diagram. Some additional bending of the logging port wires will likely be necessary at this stage to get the left end of the board down, barely into the box. 15. Carefully plug the 9-pin (female) D connector into the mating AVR-CAN male connector. 16. Press the Controller Board (lightly) into its final position, as shown in the picture below. Ensure that the Zener remains in position, along the bottom of the box and away from other components. The Zener may get a little warm during operation of the SOC- Meter, so it should be surrounded only by air. 17. Double-check all visible connections, especially the power-in connections and wires! 18. Put the cover (the back of the SOC-Meter) on the enclosure, fastening with the four provided screws. Do not OVER tighten the screws. 19. Flip the box over so the display is face up and the pushbuttons are at the top. 20. Cut the thin plastic filter material (red or blue to match your display s digits) to just slide into the frame s recess. Better to cut too little off than too much. 21. Place the frame on the box, oriented so that the slot is at the top. Mount the frame with the two included screws, one into each of the two 1/16" diameter holes. Do not press too heavily on the box while screwing in the screws. With the correct size screwdriver, only modest pressure will be necessary. 22. Slide the filter into the slot at the top edge of the frame. If you have cut well, the filter will not fall out, but you will be able to slide the thin filter out if needed. After completing assembly, be sure to test the SOC-Meter (even if you tested it before assembly). Page 10 of 10 2/13/12 12:4 PM