FUSELAGE KIT 20 CENTER SECTION 21 MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS 23 SIDE SKINS 25 TAILCONE ATTACHMENT 27 RUDDER PEDALS & BRAKE SYSTEM

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1 VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. OPTIONAL KIT 39 AUTOPILOT SERVO BRACKETS OPTIONAL KIT 22 FWD LOWER FUSELAGE 24 ROLLOVER STRUCTURE & F-1207 BULKHEAD 26 SEAT BACKS 28 FUEL SYSTEM FUSELAGE KIT 20 CENTER SECTION FINISH KIT 21 MID FUSE RIBS & BOTTOM SKINS 23 SIDE SKINS 25 TAILCONE ATTACHMENT 27 RUDDER PEDALS & BRAKE SYSTEM 29 FWD UPPER FUSELAGE 10 TAILCONE EMPENNAGE / TAILCONE KIT 11 EMP ATTACHMENT 12 EMP FAIRINGS 1 INTRODUCTION 3 TOOLS AND WORKSPACE 5 CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS, PROCESSES & USEFUL INFORMATION GETTING STARTED 2 DESIGN PHILOSOPHY 4 PARTS INDEX 6 VERTICAL STABILIZER 7 RUDDER 8 ANTI-SERVO TAB 9 STABILATOR 40 LIGHTING OPTIONAL KIT 41 INTERIOR PANEL KIT 31 FUSELAGE WIRING HARNESS 33 MISCELLANEA 37 FUEL TANK 30 WING ATTACHMENT 32 FLIGHT CONTROLS 34 CANOPY 35 LANDING GEAR & ENGINE MOUNT 38 COWLING 15 WING RIBS 17 WING SKINS WING KIT 13 SPAR ASSEMBLY 14 REAR SPAR, STUB SPAR, HINGE BRACKETS 16 STALL WARNING 18 FLAPERON OPTIONAL KIT 43 DUAL DISPLAY OPTIONAL KIT 44 AP-74 & AUTOPILOT SERVOS 46 SPINNER & PROPELLER 48 COOLING SYSTEM 50 FIREWALL FORWARD WIRING HARNESS AVIONICS KIT 42 AVIONICS & AVIONICS WIRING HARNESS POWERPLANT KIT 45 ENGINE INSTALLATION 47 EXHAUST SYSTEM 49 ENGINE CONTROLS OPTIONAL KIT 36 GEAR LEG & WHEEL FAIRINGS DOCUMENTATION KIT 51 PLACARDS AND CERTIFICATION DOCUMENTS 02/26/09 1 RV-12 DATE: REVISION: PAGE 01-01

2 VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. SECTION 1: INTRODUCTION INTRODUCTION Welcome to the wonderful world of homebuilt aircraft. The project you are about to undertake (assuming that this is your first homebuilt airplane) will probably be the most frustrating, time-consuming, enjoyable, fulfilling, and rewarding that you have ever experienced. The ultimate success of this project is determined by many factors, the most important of which only you control. These include your skills, patience, willingness to learn, willingness to seek help when necessary, and a firm desire to create for yourself a very special personal airplane. The Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) allows us to build and fly experimental aircraft for the purpose of education and recreation. The education part is up to you. This instruction manual has been compiled to help you achieve your goal. Though we have made it as detailed and instructive as we feel is practical, it does not supply everything you need to know to complete an RV-12. These instructions tell you specifically how to build an RV-12, and presuppose that you already know (or will learn) the basics of aluminum aircraft construction. To assist your education, we have included a copy of the Standard Aircraft Handbook in your kit. Additionally, we have listed several other books and manuals that are helpful in this regard. Additional help during construction can be had by becoming a member of the Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA), reading their Sport Aviation and Sport Pilot magazines, and most of all, by being an active member of one of their 600+ chapters. Associating with other homebuilders, particularly RV builders, can be extremely helpful and can even make the difference between success and failure of your project. It can provide actual building assistance, technical knowledge, and moral support. In many places RV builders have formed their own organizations, often modeled on EAA chapters. They publish newsletters, hold regular meetings, and exchange techniques, information & tools. We have been highly impressed by the craftsmanship and camaraderie demonstrated by these Builders Groups and encourage any RV builder to join or form one whenever possible. (A list of Builders Groups and contact persons is available by contacting Van's Aircraft or by visiting Building an airplane is a big undertaking, and a builder should never be too proud or individualistic to take advantage of what others have to offer. It is a rare person who is so skilled that he/she cannot benefit from others. VAN'S BUILDER ASSISTANCE Van's offers builders assistance on the telephone between the hours of 7:00 am to 9:00 am and 3:30 pm to 4:30 pm Pacific Time. You can also us at support@vansaircraft.com. Please, for speedier answers when you call, have your builders manual with you and be ready with your 6-digit customer/builder number. When ing questions please be sure to say that you are building an RV-12 and to specify the manual page(s) you are referencing. A WORD ABOUT THE BUILDERS MANUAL When the kits are shipped, they have the latest revision of the builders manual. The builders manual matches the parts as shipped. Over time, we make changes, corrections and improvements to the builders manual. There is no need to request newer versions. New drawings may not match the parts that you have. Van's has decided that our website ( will be the mechanism for putting necessary revisions into the hands of builders, therfore it is essential that all RV-12 builders have access to a computer with an internet connection and an account. The cost to builders should be minimal, as public access computers in libraries may be used, with a free gmail or hotmail account. These are essential for downloading manual revisions and are the primary means (with the Van's website) for us to stay in contact with RV-12 builders. Paper manual revisions will not be mailed out in order to reduce costs and maintain kit affordability. Most builders will also want a computer/internet access to become part of the online RV community. Here's how our revision system works: Change Memos: note changes to the build process or insignificant spelling/wording changes that do not in any way alter the configuration of the finished aircraft. Memo changes will NOT show a revision level change in the title block but will show a change to the revision date. Change Notices: note dimensional changes, change of parts/hardware, or any additional instructions or changes to the build process which result in a change in the configuration of the finished aircraft. Notice changes WILL show a revision level change in the title block as well as a date change. As a builder, it is up to you to check our website frequently. When you find a builders manual page with a later date or higher revision number than the one you have... IF it shows a portion of construction you have not reached... THEN simply print-out the new page and destroy the old one. IF it shows a portion of construction you have already accomplished... THEN there is NO NEED to re-do any step of construction to conform with a revision. In any situation, there is NO NEED to keep track of exactly what changed. Service Bulletins: will be issued if, for some reason, an already accomplished step must be re-done. The service bulletin will detail the steps that must be re-done along with any parts or hardware necessary to accomplish the required change. If/when a service bulletin is issued, we will contact all affected builders as well as post the service bulletin on our website and publish it in the RVator (available as a free download at vansaircraft.com). Given the potential need for us to contact you, the builder, it is important to keep Van's Aircraft informed as to your current address and mailing address. The builders manual not only guides you through the assembly process but also defines the exact configuration of your particular aircraft. For this reason the builders manual is considered a part of the aircraft documentation package and should remain with the aircraft if/when ownership is changed. HELPFUL BOOKS AND MANUALS AIRCRAFT SHEET METAL CONSTRUCTION AND REPAIR SHEET METAL, Vol. #1 THE SPORTPLANE BUILDER FIREWALL FORWARD SPORTPLANE CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES THE AEROELECTRIC CONNECTION (A great source for wiring information) BUILDING THE METAL AIRPLANE LIGHT AIRPLANE CONSTRUCTION FAA ADVISORY CIRCULAR Sources for some or all of these include: Van's Aircraft, Inc. Robert L. Nuckolls III (The Aeroelectric Connection) 6936 Bainbridge Rd Wichita, KS Builder's Bookstore PO Box 270 Tabernash, CO Avery Enterprises 411 Aviator Drive Ft. Worth TX phone: fax: Experimental Aircraft Association PO Box 3086 Oshkosh WI PAGE RV-12 REVISION: 3 DATE: 02/22/10

3 VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. SECTION 2: DESIGN PHILOSOPHY INTRODUCTION Before getting into the construction details of your RV-12, let's take a look at the design philosophy and goals that are the basis for this airplane. The goal was to achieve the maximum overall performance, flying enjoyment, ease of construction, building and flying economy, ease of maintenance, and pleasing appearance possible for a two-place airplane. Understanding how this was achieved might help you better appreciate many features of the RV-12 as you encounter them during construction. The formula for achieving maximum overall performance is amazingly simple: Maximize thrust, minimize drag; maximize lift, minimize weight. The implementation of this formula is a bit more complex, however. Thrust, for a given HP engine, has been maximized through use of a good propeller, streamlining of the engine cowl, and directing the engine outlet rearward. Drag was minimized by keeping the aircraft frontal area to a minimum and shaping all airframe components to reduce aerodynamic drag. Lift was maximized through use of a wing with adequate area and good airfoil. Weight is minimized by careful structural design, by using the best airframe materials, and by installation of only essential instrumentation and equipment. Most of the literally hundreds of features which comprise the overall RV-12 package have been determined in the design stage and involve no choices for the builder unless he chooses to make major modifications. There is little that a builder is likely to do which will have much effect on either thrust or lift of his RV. However, construction techniques and additional installed equipment can have noticeable effects on both drag and weight - the archenemies of performance. A NEW AVIATION HORIZON In 2004, the FAA created sport pilot/light-sport aircraft (SP/LSA) regulations. The most significant change in FAA regulations in 50 years, it allows easier and lower-cost access for those wishing to participate in the joy of flight. With adoption of SP/LSA, flying has become less expensive and easier than ever before. You can become a sport pilot with as little as 20 hours of flight instruction. You can fly a one- or two-seat aircraft capable of speeds up to 138 mph. And in most cases, you can pass the medical requirements just by showing your driver's license. BASIC PARAMETERS OF LSA The FAA has defined light-sport aircraft as simple-to-operate, easy-to-fly aircraft that, since initial certification, has continued to meet the following performance definition: Maximum gross weight of 1,320 lb Maximum stall speed of 45 kt CAS Maximum speed in level flight with maximum continuous power of 120 kt CAS One or two person occupancy (pilot and one passenger) Fixed or ground adjustable propeller Fixed landing gear Single reciprocating engine Unpressurized cabin The FAA has allowed manufacturers to market an aircraft that complies with S-LSA design, production, maintenance, and continuing airworthiness consensus standards as a kit that requires only minor assembly. The assembly, however, must be done in accordance with a factory-supplied, assembly manual that complies with the appropriate ASTM consensus standard. Only manufacturers that have already received an S-LSA airworthiness certificate are eligible to offer an E-LSA Kit. The E-LSA kit offers some advantages over traditional Experimental - Amateur Built kits, primarily that there is no "major portion" requirement limiting the allowed level of completeness of E-LSA kits. Van's Aircraft, Inc.'s only option at this time (April 2008) is to license the RV-12 as an S-LSA. This will allow our customers to build an E-LSA from our kit when purchased. This limits aircraft "options" to those tested and approved by Van's Aircraft. We encourage builders to do this as it will minimize construction time and produce consistent airplanes. Builders may choose to build and certify their RV-12 aircraft under the Experimental - Amateur Built rules which allow greater latitude for deviation from the kit manufacturer's design standard. Van's anticipates that E-AB kit certification will be an option, but at this time (April 2008), E-AB certification will be on an individual basis and the sole responsibility of the builder. RV-12 DESIGN FEATURES The RV's "traditional" configuration - tractor engine, monoplane, stabilizer in the rear, is an exercise in logic and not simply a concession to convention. There are many good reasons why light planes have been built this way for decades, other than the often heard arguments of "entrenched design mentality" from those seeking "technological breakthroughs". The bottom line is that this configuration has proven to offer the best compromise resulting in the best all around airplane. The constant chord wing planform chosen for the RV-12 offers the ultimate in construction ease, stability, and lifting ability. The possible drag and aesthetic penalties for the rectangular wing are negligible in light of its advantages. The airfoil used is a modified NACA , an old wing section often maligned in "airfoil selection" articles and texts. However, this basic airfoil section has been used on some of the world's most successful airplanes ranging from the Taylorcraft and Helio Courier on one end of the scale, to the Turbo Commander and even the Cessna Citation on the other end. Others using it include the DC-3, all tapered wing Beechcrafts, and many of the Cessna twins. Given that low cost of ownership is a selling point for any Light Sport Aircraft and is a prime design goal of all RV designs, the RV-12 incorporates wings that are easily removable. Because the cost of hangar space is typically the single biggest aircraft ownership expense, removable wings mean that storage costs can be reduced (by sharing of 'on-airport' hangar space) or eliminated (by storage 'off-airport' at home). This design feature drove other features such as placement of fuel tank in the fuselage, selection of full-span drooping ailerons (flaperons) which automatically hook-up upon wing installation, and location of the pitot tube in the spinner. Because the RV-12 would possibly be trailered to and from the airport, the wings-removed width had to be sufficiently narrow to allow it to be legally trailered. This limited the span of the horizontal tail surface to 8 ft. The limited tail span requires that the RV-12 use a long fuselage placing the tail surfaces well aft for good control authority. Seating arrangements vary between the RV designs, depending on the primary mission envisioned. Side-by-side seating was chosen for the RV-12 because this arrangement is generally preferred for its primary mission: Sport Flying. Specific advantages of the side-by-side configuration include equal visibility for both occupants, more easily achieved dual control capability, lots of instrument panel space, minimized CG travel for various loading conditions, and a full cowling with room for engine accessories and plumbing. The RV-12 design places the occupants further forward than the other side-by-side RV designs. This seating position allows for excellent visibility even in the downward direction because the wing leading edge is far aft relative to the occupants' eyes. The potential down-side of this 'cab-forward' arrangement is a CG that is further forward than desired. The selection of the very light Rotax 912ULS engine enables the RV-12 to balance well even with two heavy occupants sitting forward of the wing spar. Designers often use the term "Mission Profile" which simply refers to the function an airplane is designed to perform. The RV-12's mission profile is rather broad -- it is intended to fill nearly all sport flying needs - excellent flying qualities, maximum speed allowed under LSA rules, low stall speed, good visibility, simple assembly for the home-bulider, economical to own and operate. Meeting all these needs required a design "balancing act''. Favoring one need often adversely affects others. An example would be emphasizing cross country cruise performance by installing extra radios, instruments, and upholstery. The weight added would adversely affect all other performance parameters. This is not a "maybe", it is a certainty. Whether the trade-off is worthwhile is a decision that can only be made by the builder. (continued on next page...) DATE: 02/22/10 REVISION: 1 RV-12 PAGE 02-01

4 VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. We feel that an RV-12 in its basic form with fixed-pitch prop, modest instrumentation & avionics, and Rotax 912ULS engine represents the best compromise. Obviously, we could go on and on, covering every design decision, compromise, or concession. However, it should be obvious by now that every feature of the RV-12, whether major or minor, was the end product of much deliberation. In almost all instances, these features are so inter-related that altering one will affect several others; meaning that a builder should not consider making changes unless he is willing and capable of analyzing the overall impact of the change. NOTE: Van's Aircraft Inc. kits are carefully designed and tested. They will demonstrate performance very close to quoted figures with the engines and propellers recommended. Van's Aircraft recommends that the kits only be assembled according to the supplied plans. If the builder chooses to deviate from the plans and install a non-standard engine or to modify the aircraft to a configuration other than what is called out in the plans, he or she is assuming responsibility for the airworthiness of that modification and any effect it may have on the airworthiness of the airframe and/or powerplant. Technical support may not be available for modifications that deviate from the plans nor for installations that are not specifically recommended by Van's Aircraft. Keep in mind that insurance companies may not be willing to write a policy on an aircraft that has been modified to a configuration other than that recommended by the manufacturer. Prior to modification, the builder should check with their insurance provider regarding this matter. If a kit is modified in any significant manner, it should not be considered an RV (type) for registration purposes. PAGE RV-12 REVISION: 1 DATE: 02/22/10

5 VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. SECTION 3: TOOLS AND WORKSPACE While building an RV requires some investment in special tools, most builders with home workshops already own many of the basics. In addition, there are a number of tools which are nice to have, but not essential. The RV-12 has been specifically designed to minimize the need for an extensive tool list. See the RV-12 Required Tool List for the tools specifically required for RV-12 construction on Page Tools marked with an "*" are on the required tool list. Unless you live in a major metropolitan area, you probably have to order specialized tools by mail or online. Several mail order tool houses offer excellent quality and service. Van's surveyed RV builders about the quality and service provided by the various mail order tool houses. The results generally agreed with the old adage: "you get what you pay for." Inexpensive tools often proved to be of inferior quality, resulting in frustration and poor results. We have supplied a list of tool suppliers in our printed and online catalogs. STATIONARY TOOLS Bench Grinder: a bench grinder with a Scotchbrite polishing wheel is extremely useful. While the edges of sheet metal parts can be deburred and/or sanded smooth, the grinder will save many hours. Grinders with totally enclosed motors will endure the abrasive dust better. Belt sander: many builders report that a benchtop 1'' belt sander is one of their most used tools. Most of the jobs it does could be accomplished with a file and sandpaper, so it is not essential, but it will save a lot of time. Air Compressor: Output and tank volume are not critical, but it should be capable of 75 psi. If you plan to use rotary air tools like air drills or die grinders, a larger tank (20 gallons or more) will keep the compressor from running continuously. Any 1 1/2 to 2 hp home shop compressor with enough volume to power a spray gun will be adequate. Band Saw: another non-essential but handy tool. Drill Press: One of the most useful auxiliary tools. Kit builders can manage without, but will find many uses if they have one. HAND TOOLS *Hand Held Drill Motor: A 1/4 or 3/8 electric hand drill will do. A variable speed reversible drill is better. Battery drills can be convenient, and some of the high power, high rpm models do an excellent job. A minimum of 1100 to 1200 rpm are necessary. Two or more electric drill motors is a good idea. For instance, you might have a drill bit in one, and a machine counter-sink in another. They are cheap enough to make this convenience affordable. Air drills are preferred by many builders because of their small size, high speed, and variable speed feature. They do use a lot of air, however, so plan on having a compressor with a larger tank. *Drill Bits: the basic tool of RV building. We have found that High Speed Steel bits work well for small holes. "Split point" drill bits, either the 118 deg or the 135 deg, work especially well, giving a clean start and a round hole. Split points almost eliminate the ugly "worm track" left when a bit does not start cleanly and spins off across the workpiece. Plexi or plastic drilling bits are designed to minimize the risk of chipping or cracking. *Unibits: Also known as stepdrills. Drilling holes larger than 1/4" in thin sheet metal with a twist drill often results in distorted holes or parts. The Unibit cuts these larger holes in sheet aluminum cleanly and quickly, and also work very well in plexiglass. They are stepped in 32nds and 16ths. *Deburring bits: several styles are available. A hand swiveling type is inexpensive and works well. Adapters that fit deburring bits to slow turning electric screwdrivers and hand drills have become popular for large jobs, such as deburring big skins. Three flute deburring cutters are widely available and generally work well, but they do have a tendency to chatter. Single flute deburring bits work beautifully. *Dimple Dies Many of the skins are too thin to machine away metal for the countersunk rivets and screws, and dimpling is required. Dimple dies, made from high quality tool steel, come in male/female pairs. Used in a squeezer, they form rivet shaped depressions in sheet metal. *Hand Seamer: Required for bending small tabs and flanges, and for straightening or re-aligning major flanges. *MicroStop Countersink: or "machine countersink cage". This tool holds a piloted cutter and has a micro-adjustable sliding sleeve to set the depth of cut. Only one is necessary, but two, set up with different cutters, are a nice convenience. *Cleco Fasteners: Cleco is a trade name which has come into common use to mean Temporary Sheet Metal Fastener. This is a little cylindrical shaped device about the size of a 45 caliber bullet. It has a spring loaded barbed pin in the end which fits into a drilled hole in two or more thicknesses of sheet and locks them together. More is better...many builders measure them by the quart. *Cleco Pliers: As the name implies, this is a pliers-like tool used for installing and removing temporary sheet metal fasteners. *C-Clamps: About 2'' size. *Other Clamps: You can never have too many spring clamps. They are a quick and inexpensive way of setting up and holding assemblies together. Do not trust them to hold parts in alignment when drilling -- the springs do not provide enough clamping pressure to resist power tools. There are many types of cam clamps, almost like mini-vice grips available from different manufacturers. They hold much better than spring clamps and are usually a worthwhile investment. *Metal Cutting Snips: Right hand and left hand offset snips are required. *Pop-Rivet Puller: Used extensively in RV-12 construction to set blind or pop-rivets. Most commonly available flush head Blind Rivets (often referred to as Pop-rivets, a trade name) have 120 deg. head angles rather than the 100 deg. for flush head AN rivets. Thus, special dimple die sets are needed for a perfect fit, although almost all builders we know use regular dimple dies and report acceptable results. We recommend using the "Pop" Riveter PRP-26A, USM Corp., not all rivet pullers will fit into the tighter spaces for RV-12 construction. Although not required, a pneumatic puller is highly recommended and can be run with a small air-compressor. Body File: Also known as a Vixen file or a SuperShear (Nicholson brand name.) Distinguished by the crescent shaped cutters across the width of the file. Not an absolutely essential tool, but is very useful for smoothing the edges of thicker gauges of aluminum. *Fluting Pliers: Used for crimping rib flanges, etc. to effectively shrink them and straighten the part. Several styles are available. We prefer pliers that leave a crisp indentation, and avoid the type with the large rubber tips. These make a wide shallow flute which gives less flat area for rivets. *Edge Deburring Tools: A selection of tools as listed in the required parts list. Deburring tools are used for rounding and smoothing the edges of sheet metal parts. *Hand Rivet Squeezer: Used for dimpling and setting rivets near material edges. There are cheap ones on the market, but they give poor results. Spend the money. Paint Spray Gun/Respirator : Priming of internal parts of an RV requires a spray gun. Almost any quality gun will do because primer finishes are not as critical as exterior painting. One of the biggest problems involved in priming is cleaning up. Often only a small amount of priming is needed. Small spray guns with disposable cup reservoirs are adequate for priming. Clean up of the spray nozzle is very simple, and the spray pattern quality is more than adequate for priming. Respiratory protection from primers and paints should not be taken lightly. Those warnings are on paint cans for a reason! A good respirator (not a dust mask) is essential. In the last year or two, "fresh air" spray systems, using an oil-less compressor to supply fresh air from a remote source to a respirator or spray helmet, have become affordable. *Files: A minimum of 3 or 4 will do. Small round, flat, and flat-face/round back. *Torque wrench: This is a must have tool. Get one calibrated in inch-pounds, a foot pound wrench will do you no good. Aircraft nuts and bolts have specific torque values (see the Standard Aircraft Handbook or the table reprinted in Section 5 of this manual) that can only be set accurately with this tool. It is very easy to over torque the small AN3 (10-32) bolts without one. DATE: 02/22/10 REVISION: 1 RV-12 PAGE 03-01

6 VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. RV-12 BUILDER'S TOOL REQUIREMENTS (CONTINUED) *Taps: Used to add internal threads to drilled holes. See required tool list for specific sizes. *Tubing bender: Although there are not a lot of aluminum tubes in the RVs, those that are there need to be bent properly. Fuel lines, pitot lines etc. need to be kink free. *Tubing Flaring Tool: Fuel lines need to have the proper 37 flare on the end in order to seal properly. Buy one or borrow one, but don't try to use an automotive 45 tool. *Heavy soft faced hammer: Select one between 12 and 24oz. All required equipment can be purchased from one of the suppliers listed in our accessories catalog. While other suppliers are available, these have catalogs available which make shopping easier. These catalogs are also useful as a general information source about sheet metal tools. Several of the larger general parts suppliers such as Aircraft Spruce and Wicks publish extensive catalogs which are very valuable not only introducing the builder to the wide variety of hardware, tools, and parts available, but also including useful charts and table of aircraft standards. Following is a list of tools compiled specifically for building the RV-12. While we feel that those tools we have listed are sufficient, some builders (or groups of builders) might have the resources and desire to have a super well equipped shop and should be aware that there is practically no limit to the variety of tools available. Within reason, money spent on good tools is seldom regretted. 1X 6" Bench Vise 10X Small (2") "C" clamps 4X Large (3") spring or "pony clamps 1X 3/32 rivet dimple die set (should include a reduced dia. female die) 1X 1/8 protuding head rivet set (tall, 1/2" thick) 1X 1/8 rivet dimple die set (100 ) 1X #8 screw dimple die set 2X Flush head rivet set (short, 1/8" thick) 1X Flush head rivet set (tall, 1/2" thick) 1X #3 drill bit 1X #11 drill bit 2X #12 drill bit 1X #16 drill bit 2X #19 drill bit 1X #27 drill bit 3X #30 drill bit 1X 12" extension drill #30 1X #36 drill bit 5X #40 drill bit 1X #52 drill bit 1X 1/4" drill bit 1X 5/16" drill bit 1X Q or 11/32nd drill bit 1X 3/8" drill bit 1X 1/4" to 3/4" X 1/16 step drill (Unibit) RV-12 BUILDER'S TOOL REQUIREMENTS 1X 1/4-28 tap 1X 5/16-24 tap 1X 3/8-16 tap 1X 3/8-24 tap 1X 6-32 tap 1X 8-32 tap 1X tap 1X T-handle for taps 350X #30 clecos 50X #40 clecos 1X Cleco pliers 1X Deburring countersink tool with flute cutter 1X Multi-burr deburring tool (Royal style) 1X Screwdriver with #2 phillips bit 1X Combination wrench set (1/4"-3/4" & 10mm-17mm) 1X Allen wrenches, assorted (inch & metric) 1X Feeler guages: in. 1X Fish scale (0-50lbs) 1X Files (assorted) 1X Fluting pliers 1X Hacksaw with fine tooth (32 teeth per inch) blade 1X 12' Tape measure 1X Needlenose pliers 1X Diagonal cutter 1X Olfa RTY-2/G 45mm Rotary Cutter (or equivalent) 1X Left hand offset metal cutting snips 1X Right hand offset metal cutting snips 1X Wire crimper/stripper 1X Multimeter (with continuity check capability) 1X Carburetor Synchronizing Tool Finish 3 yd 9oz/sq yd plain weave "E-glass" fabric Finish 1 yd Peel ply (optional) Finish 1 qt kit of epoxy resin & hardener Finish 1 qt Acetone (for clean-up) Finish 25 Mixing cups (Solo clear plastic cups recycle code #1 or #5) Finish 50 Craft sticks (a.k.a. popsicle sticks) Finish 1/4 lb flocked cotton fiber (a.k.a. "flox") Finish 1/4 lb glass spheres (a.k.a. "micro-balloons") All 1 roll Low-tack "painters" masking tape Finish 1 roll Mylar Packing Tape Finish 1 roll Duct tape 1X 1/4" drive socket set (with inch & metric sockets) 1X Socket and ratchet handle for 1 1/4" nut (big!) 1X Socket 19mm (3/4in) 1X Allen Sockets: 4mm, 5mm, 8mm 1X Aviation flaring tool (tube) 1X Tubing cutter 1X Tubing bender 1X Battery powered drill motor RV-12 BUILDER'S SUPPLIES REQUIREMENTS SUB-KIT QTY ITEM All 1 box Sharpie pen - fine point; blue or black All 1 box Sharpie pen - extra fine point; blue or black Emp 1 roll String Emp 1 tube Super glue Avionics 1 tube Boelube Fuse 1 can Pipe Thread Sealant Fuse 1 can Fuel Tank Sealant Fuse 1 tube Firewall Sealant All 1 tube RTV Sealant Pwr Plnt 1 tube Clear Silicone Pwr Plnt 10 ml Loctite 221 Wing 10 ml Loctite 243 Pwr Plnt 1 tube Loctite Heavy Duty Anti-Seize 1X Cable Tensiometer SUB-KIT QTY ITEM Finish 1X Balloon (Fuel tank test) Finish 1X 8 x 36 Protective paper Finish 1X 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of 60 grit sandpaper Finish 2X 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of 80 grit sandpaper Finish 2X 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of 100 grit sandpaper Finish 1X 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of 150 grit sandpaper Finish 2X 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of 220 grit sandpaper Emp 1X Rectangle sanding block Emp 1X Cylindrical sanding block; 1-1 1/4 Dia. Finish 3X 1" wide paint brush (cheap, natural bristle type) Finish 1X 2" wide paint brush (cheap, natural bristle type) Finish 1X 3" wide paint brush (cheap, natural bristle type) 1X 100 machine countersink cutter with #12 pil ot 1X 100 machine countersink cutter with #19 pil ot 1X 100 machine countersink cutter with #27 pil ot 1X 120 machine countersink cutter with #30 pil ot 1X 100 machine countersink cutter with #30 pil ot 1X 100 machine countersink cutter with #40 pil ot 1X Countersink cage 1X Hand blind rivet puller "POP" Riveter PRP-26A, USM Corp. 1X Hand solid rivet squeezer with 3" yoke 1X Hand Seamer 1X Heavy soft faced hammer 1X Torque wrench (inch pounds scale) PAGE RV-12 REVISION: 10 DATE: 02/17/11

7 PARTS DESIGNATION SYSTEM WORKSPACE REQUIRED VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. All parts in an RV structure (other than standard aircraft hardware items or common vendor items) have a part number assigned to them. Here is a typical part number, followed by an explanation of the numbering system: W-606A 1. The first letter designates the major portion of the airframe in which the part is used. In this instance, "W'' denotes "WING''. Other prefixes are: W - Wing, F - Fuselage, HS - Stabilator, VS - Vertical Stabilizer, R - Rudder, A - Flaperon, FF - Firewall Forward, T - Tank, U - Undercarriage, WD - Weldment, C - Canopy. 2. The first number, for example, "6", usually refers to the model, RV-6. Numbers have been allocated in blocks of 100 for our various models and future models. Thus, most 300 series numbers are for the RV-3, 400 series numbers for the RV-4, 1200 series numbers for the RV-12, etc. In some cases, however, you will find 400 or even 300 series part numbers in RV-6 plans. In these cases, the part is common to more than one aircraft and to avoid the confusion of having one part with two possible part numbers, we will use only one number. 3. The last number, or last two numbers, refer to the specific part in that airframe component. The example W-606 is the wing spar. 4. The suffix letter is used when a part, such as the wing spar in this instance, consists of two or more assembled parts. In this example, the "A" designates the spar web, to which are riveted W-606B, W-606C, etc., parts. We rarely encounter builders who feel that they have too much workspace; it's about like having too large a bank account -- there is no such thing! The derivation of the word "Homebuilt'' is obvious, and most of us have heard stories of airplanes being built in basements or attics where the walls had to be knocked down to get them out when finished. We expect that some RVs will also be built, or partially built, in some rather strained quarters. However, we suggest that the desired building space be about that of a two-car garage (about 20 x 20 ft). While this is more than enough for building individual airframe components, it will come in handy for storing completed components while others are being built, and for final assembly, etc. One of the tougher problems is finding a place to spray paint. Some builders choose to corrosion proof their airplanes, and the two part epoxy primers usually used can be toxic, or, at best, unpleasant. A well ventilated spray area, partitioned or in a separate building from the work area is necessary. A corner of the shop cordoned off with plastic sheet and equipped with an exhaust fan is a common solution. A firm table with a smooth, level surface of about 3' x 6' is needed for RV-12 construction. You will probably want a larger table or tables than this to hold tools, hardware, and other completed or semi-completed surfaces. Did you ever see anything even vaguely resembling a table top which wasn't immediately cluttered beyond the point of use? Like shop space, you never seem to have enough table space either. Raw materials use a different numbering system. AA Aluminum Angle AB Aluminum Bar AS Aluminum Sheet AT Aluminum Tube PS Plastic Sheet/Strip PT Plastic Tube SS Steel Sheet SSP Stainless Steel Pin ST Steel Tube The next number denotes the temper, condition or alloy: 0 Soft Aluminum 3 T-3 (aluminum) 6 T-6 (aluminum) 4130 Steel alloy The number following the dash shows the thickness of the material " " Next the size is specified: An example: AS3-032x15x20 shows a part of Aluminum Sheet, temper T-3, 0.032" thick, 15"x20" When referring to parts for re-ordering or technical assistance purposes, please use the full number so that confusion can be avoided. Standard aircraft hardware is listed by the most common designation, usually numbers with either AN, MS, or NAS prefixes. "AN" is for Army/Navy, "MS" is for Military Standard, and "NAS" is for National Aerospace Standard. The numbers and letter in an aircraft hardware designation all tell something about the part. For example, one of the most basic is that of aircraft bolts. One example would be an AN3-4A, which means that it is a 3/16'' diameter bolt (first number) which is 4/8 (1/2) inch long, has fine threads (std. for aircraft hardware), and has an undrilled shank (A suffix). It is not our purpose here to list information about all types of aircraft hardware used in an RV. We hope that one or more of the reference texts you purchase as construction aids will provide such listings. Catalogs from aircraft hardware suppliers listed in our accessories catalog usually have a wealth of general information of this nature, and are a valuable reference source even if they are old and prices are out of date. DATE: 02/22/10 REVISION: 2 RV-12 PAGE 03-03

8 REVISION: DATE: VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. Center Line: Used for the center line of holes, tubes, discs, and any other part which is symmetrical on each side of the center line. This is a series of long and short dashes. 1 1/2 3 MECHANICAL DRAWINGS AND MECHANICAL DRAWING READING Detail "X": Denotes that the portion of the drawing enclosed within the circle is shown elsewhere in greater detail. R1/8 While mechanical drawings are not a tool in the same sense of a hammer and saws, they indeed are tools in the contribution they make to completion of a homebuilt airplane. They are drawings which present a picture of parts and assemblies from one or more viewpoints. Like a written language, mechanical drawings are only useful if the viewer can read them. RV drawings have been prepared using a blend of accepted mechanical drawing practices and presentations which we feel can be most easily understood by the average homebuilder. The individual drawings of the respective views show what can be seen from that viewpoint plus all hidden lines and features. Looking at the front view shows the presence of hidden lines which can only be clarified by the addition of one or more views. The side view provides enough information to fully understand the shape of the part. The top view provides yet more clarification. Dimensions: Holes and radius parts are dimensioned from the center of the hole or from the center point of the arc describing the rounded surface. Thus, the overall height of the part is the base to radius center plus the arc radius. The overall height dimension is not usually given, but if it is, would be listed as a reference dimension because the other is primary. 1 1/8 Ø1 3/4 Ø1 1/8 Ø1/4 Since a mechanical drawing is composed mostly of lines of one form or another, we must define them. Following is a description of some symbols and lines used. FIGURE 4: DIMENSIONED PART Solid Line: Represents a surface or an edge which is visible to the viewer. Hidden Line: Is a uniform line of short dashes representing an edge or surface which cannot be seen by the viewer but is important to present in the drawing. Phantom Line: A line of interspaced long and short dashes shows the position that another part will occupy at another state of construction or assembly. It is used to make the builder aware of the relationship of other parts of the structure, without the clutter of an assembly drawing. Bend Line: Indicates the line about which a bend is to be made. Section Line: This is used to indicate a view of a part which could be seen if the part were cut in two and viewed from the direction of arrows at end of the line. The letters correspond to the view located elsewhere on the drawing. TOP SIDE SIDE TOP ISOMETRIC VIEW FRONT FRONT PLANS PAGE TEMPLATE SCALING Some plans pages contain templates that are printed at a scale of 1:1. Double check that a plans page is scaled correctly by measuring the border before using the template! A properly scaled border is shown in Figure /16 FIGURE 1: ORTHO VIEWS PAGE XX-XX RV /22/10 16 FIGURE 5: BORDER DIMENSIONS FIGURE 2: DRILLED HOLE (NOTE THE POINTED TIP) FIGURE 3: DRILLED AND THREADED HOLE (NOTE DOUBLE LINE SEGMENT INDICATING DEPTH OF THREAD) PAGE RV-12 REVISION: 2 DATE: 02/22/10

9 SECTION 4: RV-12 PARTS INDEX PART NUMBER NOMENCLATURE SUB-KIT SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE: MAKE FROM MATERIAL: PART NUMBER NOMENCLATURE SUB-KIT SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE: MAKE FROM MATERIAL: 2A0R570EN-V COMPOSITE PROP-12 POWERPLANT 47 3 MANUFACTURED N/A A-1201A-L INBD NOSE SKIN FLAPERON 18 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1201A-R INBD NOSE SKIN FLAPERON 18 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1201B-L MIDDLE NOSE SKIN FLAPERON 18 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1201B-R MIDDLE NOSE SKIN FLAPERON 18 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1201C-L OUTBD NOSE SKIN FLAPERON 18 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1201C-R OUTBD NOSE SKIN FLAPERON 18 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1202A-L INBD FLAPERON SKIN FLAPERON 18 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1202A-R INBD FLAPERON SKIN FLAPERON 18 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1202B OUTBD FLAPERON SKIN FLAPERON 18 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1203 SPAR FLAPERON 18 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1204-L OUTBD NOSE RIB FLAPERON 18 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1204-R OUTBD NOSE RIB FLAPERON 18 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1205 MAIN RIB FLAPERON 18 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1206 PIVOT BRACKET FLAPERON 18 2 MATERIAL AEX TIE-DOWN A-1207-L ACTUATION BRACKET FLAPERON 18 2 MATERIAL.125X1 1/2X T6 EXTRUSION A-1207-R ACTUATION BRACKET FLAPERON 18 2 MATERIAL.125X1 1/2X T6 EXTRUSION A-1208 BRACKET FLAPERON 18 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1210-L INBD NOSE RIB FLAPERON 18 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1210-R INBD NOSE RIB FLAPERON 18 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET A-1211 PIVOT GUIDE FINISH 30 4 MANUFACTURED 1.00 DELRIN ROUND A-909 AILERON COUNTERBALANCE FLAPERON 18 3 MATERIAL.065X1 3/8 304 STAINLESS TUBE AN490HT11P-SDM ROD END FINISH 32 6 MANUFACTURED N/A AN737TWT-24 HOSE CLAMP 3/4 FUSE 28 6 MANUFACTURED N/A AV 127SNI135 (396, 496 ONLY) GROUND LOOP FILTER GARMIN X MANUFACTURED N/A AV AV-17 COM ANTENNA AVIONICS MANUFACTURED N/A AV AV-22 TRANSPONDER ANTENNA AVIONICS MANUFACTURED N/A AV FC PANEL MT ST INTERCOM RV-12 UNIQUE FLIGHTCOM MANUFACTURED N/A AV GARMIN 296, 396 OR 496 GPS GARMIN X MANUFACTURED N/A AV GARMIN GTX327 DIGITAL TRANSPONDER GARMIN COM-TX 42 6 MANUFACTURED N/A AV GARMIN GTX328 DIGITAL MODE S TRANSPONDER GTX MANUFACTURED N/A AV GARMIN SL-40 COM RADIO GARMIN COM-TX 42 9 MANUFACTURED N/A AV ME MHZ ELT AVIONICS MANUFACTURED N/A BRAKE MAST CYL LEFT-1 LEFT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER FUSE 27 2 MANUFACTURED N/A BRAKE MAST CYL RIGHT-1 RIGHT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER FUSE 27 2 MANUFACTURED N/A BUSHING AL.197 X.313 X.968 ALUMINUM BUSHING FINISH MANUFACTURED N/A BUSHING AL.197 X.313 X.968 (FIN) ALUMINUM BUSHING FINISH 32 2 MANUFACTURED.058X5/ T6 TUBE BUSHING AL.197 X.313 X.968 (PP) ALUMINUM BUSHING POWERPLANT 46 3 MANUFACTURED.058X5/ T6 TUBE BUSHING AL.197 X.313 X ALUMINUM BUSHING FUSE 21 9 MANUFACTURED.058X3/ T6 TUBE BUSHING AL.252X.3125X.125 ALUMINUM BUSHING FINISH 33 2 MANUFACTURED.058X5/ T6 TUBE BUSHING AL.252X.3125X.202 ALUMINUM BUSHING FINISH 33 3 MANUFACTURED.058X5/ T6 TUBE BUSHING AL.259 X.375 X.375 ALUMINUM BUSHING FINISH 34 3 MANUFACTURED.058X3/ T6 TUBE BUSHING AL.259 X.375 X 1.25 ALUMINUM BUSHING FUSE 21 4 MANUFACTURED.058X3/ T6 TUBE BUSHING AL.259 X.375 X ALUMINUM BUSHING FUSE 21 4 MANUFACTURED.058X3/ T6 TUBE BUSHING AL.376 X.528 X 1.9 ENGINE MOUNT BUSHING POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED 2024-T351 ALUMINUM BUSHING BS.245 X.375 X 2 BRASS BUSHING FINISH 32 5 MANUFACTURED.065X.375 BRASS TUBE C-1201 CANOPY FINISH 34 5 MANUFACTURED.150 ACRYLIC SHEET C-1202 CANOPY SKIRT FINISH 34 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET C-1203A CANOPY ATTACH ANGLE FINISH 34 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET C-1203B CANOPY ATTACH ANGLE FINISH 34 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET C-1204 GAS STRUT BUSHING FINISH 34 2 MANUFACTURED T3 OR 6061-T6 ROUND C-1205 LATCH BLOCK FINISH MANUFACTURED.750 UHMW SHEET C-1206 GUIDE PLATE FINISH 34 8 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET C-1207 GUIDE BLOCK FINISH 34 8 MANUFACTURED.750 UHMW SHEET C-1208 CANOPY FOAM FINISH MANUFACTURED POLYURETHANE FOAM 10 LB / FT^3 C-1210 LIFT HANDLE FINISH 34 9 MATERIAL.063X3/4X3/ T6 EXTRUSION C-1211 ALIGN BLOCK FINISH 34 3 MANUFACTURED WOOD C-1212 GUIDE BLOCK FINISH MATERIAL PS UHMW-750X1/2X2 C-1214 LATCH BLOCK FINISH MATERIAL PS UHMW-125X1/2X2 C-1215 LATCH HANDLE STOP FINISH 34 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET C-1216 GAS STRUT FINISH 34 2 MANUFACTURED N/A C-656 CANOPY HANDLE FINISH 34 7 MANUFACTURED 3/4 X 3/ T6 BAR C-671 PLASTIC WASHER FINISH MANUFACTURED N/A CA SEAT SET-12 SEAT BACK & BOTTOM CUSHIONS FINISH 33 4 MANUFACTURED N/A CAV-110 FUEL TANK QUICK DRAIN FUSE 28 5 MANUFACTURED N/A COWL 12 BOTTOM BOTTOM COWL FINISH 38 2 MANUFACTURED E-GLASS / EPOXY COWL 12 COOLING DUCT AIR DUCT POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED E-GLASS / EPOXY COWL 12 DUCT INTERFACE COWL DUCT INTERFACE POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED E-GLASS / EPOXY COWL 12 DUCT SEAL A COWL DUCT SEAL POWERPLANT MATERIAL RUBBER P SEAL COWL 12 DUCT SEAL B COWL DUCT SEAL POWERPLANT MATERIAL RUBEER P SEAL COWL 12 DUCT SEAL C COWL DUCT SEAL POWERPLANT MATERIAL RUBBER P SEAL COWL 12 GUIDE OIL COOLER GUIDE POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED DELRIN COWL 12 OIL DOOR OIL DOOR FINISH 38 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD COWL 12 TOP TOP COWL FINISH 38 2 MANUFACTURED E-GLASS / EPOXY COWL HINGE PIN-LEFT SIDE HINGE PIN FINISH 38 3 MANUFACTURED SSP-090X6';COWL COWL HINGE PIN-RIGHT SIDE HINGE PIN FINISH 38 3 MANUFACTURED SSP-090X6';COWL COWL HEAT SHIELD POWERPLANT MATERIAL EA EXHST/COWL SHIELD CT A-740 BLACK PUSH PULL CABLE POWERPLANT 49 7 MANUFACTURED N/A CT CHOKE CABLE-12 ROTAX CARB CHOKE CABLE POWERPLANT 50 2 MANUFACTURED N/A CT THROTTLE CABLE-12 ROTAX CARB THROTTLE CABLE POWERPLANT 50 2 MANUFACTURED N/A DOC MFGR'S LSA STATEMENT OF COMPLIANCE CERTIFICATION MANUFACTURED 8.5X11,3 HOLE PUNCH LFT SIDE DOC 12 FTS RV-12 FLIGHT TRAINING SUPPLEMENT CERTIFICATION MANUFACTURED 8.5X11,3 HOLE PUNCH LFT SIDE, DUPLEX, S DOC 12 MM RV-12 MAINTENANCE MANUAL CERTIFICATION MANUFACTURED 8.5X11,3 HOLE PUNCH LFT SIDE, DUPLEX, S DOC 12 PAP RV-12 PROD. ACCEPTANCE PROCEDURES CERTIFICATION MANUFACTURED 8.5X11,3 HOLE PUNCH LFT SIDE, DUPLEX, S DOC 12 POH RV-12 PILOT OPERATING HANDBOOK CERTIFICATION MANUFACTURED 8.5 X 11, TRIMMED TO X 7 & SIX HOLE DOOR HINGE HINGE X 6" FUSE 29 6 MATERIAL AN257-P3 EA BARRY ENGINE MOUNT ISOLATOR POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED N/A EA DYNON SENSOR KIT - R912 CARB DYNON ENGINE SENSOR KIT POWERPLANT 45 2 MANUFACTURED N/A Page 1 of 7 1/19/2011

10 PART NUMBER NOMENCLATURE SUB-KIT SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE: MAKE FROM MATERIAL: PART NUMBER NOMENCLATURE SUB-KIT SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE: MAKE FROM MATERIAL: EA EXH 12 EXHAUST SYSTEM POWERPLANT 48 2 MANUFACTURED N/A EA ROTAX 912 ULS 2 ROTAX ENGINE PACKAGE POWERPLANT 46 2 MANUFACTURED N/A EA RV-12 RADIATOR EGW HEAT EXCHANGER POWERPLANT 49 4 MANUFACTURED N/A ES PIN D-SUB FEMALE FINISH MANUFACTURED N/A ES MASTER RELAY POWERPLANT 45 2 MANUFACTURED N/A ES 25 PIN BSHELL 25 PIN D-SUB BACKSHELL FINISH 31 7 MANUFACTURED N/A ES 25 PIN BSHELL (AVIONICS) 25 PIN D-SUB BACKSHELL AV-D MANUFACTURED N/A ES 25 PIN BSHELL (POWERPLANT) 25 PIN D-SUB BACKSHELL POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED N/A ES AMP FUSE POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED N/A ES 37 PIN BSHELL 37 PIN D-SUB BACKSHELL FINISH MANUFACTURED N/A ES 37 PIN BSHELL (AVIONICS) 37 PIN D-SUB BACKSHELL AV-D MANUFACTURED N/A ES FUEL PUMP FUSE 28 2 MANUFACTURED N/A ES RIGHT ANGLE 50 OHM BNC JACK-PLUG GTX328 MANUFACTURED N/A ES 9 PIN BACKSHELL 2 9 PIN D-SUB BACKSHELL AV-D MANUFACTURED N/A ES 9 PIN BSHELL (AVIONICS) 9 PIN D-SUB BACKSHELL AV-D180 MANUFACTURED N/A ES AS212 12V POWER OUTLET FINISH MANUFACTURED N/A ES CPU FAN 12V 80X80X25 40CFM FINISH 31 4 MANUFACTURED N/A ES DIODE MASTER MASTER RELAY DIODE POWERPLANT 45 7 MANUFACTURED N/A ES E22-50K MICRO SWITCH WING 16 2 MANUFACTURED N/A ES HST 3/16 X 2" HEAT SHRINK FINISH MATERIAL HEAT SHRINK 3/16 ES HST-3/32X1' HEAT SHRINK AV-D MATERIAL HEAT SHRINK 3/32 ES MSTS-T3-7A-2 PITCH TRIM SERVO TAILCONE 11 6 MANUFACTURED N/A ES PC680 ODYSSEY BATTERY POWERPLANT 45 2 MANUFACTURED N/A ES RS PHONE CABLE FINISH 31 3 MANUFACTURED PHONE CABLE 12 FT ES ZC-210B IN-LINE FUSE HOLDER POWERPLANT 45 3 MANUFACTURED N/A F 1/4 PIPE PLUG ALLEN HD PIPE PLUG FUSE 28 5 MANUFACTURED N/A F 1/8 PIPE PLUG BRASS 1/8 BRASS PIPE PLUG FUSE 28 5 MANUFACTURED N/A F CABLE SPACER POWERPLANT 50 3 MATERIAL EA HOSE H151 F-1017C SEAT BELT ATTACH LUG FUSE 21 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1048F FACET PUMP BRACKET FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1086 VENT BRACKET FUSE 23 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1087 VENT SLIDE FUSE 23 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1092 VENT DOOR DOUBLER FUSE 23 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1093 VENT DOOR FUSE 23 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1096 VENT DOUBLER FUSE 23 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1200 INTERIOR LABEL SHEET CERTIFICATION 51 2 MANUFACTURED.003 ANODIZED ALUMINUM F-1200B BLACK FUEL PLACARD BLACK CERTIFICATION 51 6 MANUFACTURED VINYL F-1200B WHITE FUEL PLACARD WHITE CERTIFICATION 51 6 MANUFACTURED VINYL F-1201A FIREWALL UPPER FUSE 29 2 MANUFACTURED STAINLESS SHEET F-1201B FIREWALL SHELF FUSE 22 3 MANUFACTURED STAINLESS SHEET F-1201C FIREWALL BOTTOM FUSE 22 2 MANUFACTURED STAINLESS SHEET F-1201D BATTERY SPACER POWERPLANT 45 2 MATERIAL.058X5/ T6 TUBE F-1201E-L OIL TANK SIDE BRACKET FUSE 29 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1201E-R OIL TANK SIDE BRACKET FUSE 29 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1201F BATTERY MOUNT BRACE FUSE 29 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1201G OIL RESERVOIR BRACE FUSE 29 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1201H UPPER FWD FUSE DOUBLER FUSE 29 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1201J UPPER COWL HINGE FUSE 29 2 MATERIAL AN257-P3 F-1201K UPPER COWL HINGE FUSE 29 2 MATERIAL AN257-P3 F-1201L BRACKET FUSE 22 3 MATERIAL.063X3/4X3/ T6 EXTRUSION F-1201P FIREWALL SPACER FUSE 29 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1201Q BATTERY MOUNT ANGLE FUSE 29 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1201R ANTENNA SHELF FUSE 29 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1201S BATTERY CHANNEL POWERPLANT 45 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1201U FIREWALL SPACER FUSE 22 2 MATERIAL T3 ALCLAD SHEET 17/32X1 1/2 F-1201V COOLANT BOTTLE STRAP POWERPLANT 49 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD F-1201W FIREWALL SPACER FUSE 23 8 MATERIAL T3 ALCLAD SHEET 17/32 X 10 F-1201Z RETAINING PLATE AVIONICS MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202A-1 INSTRUMENT PANEL FUSE 29 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202B PANEL BASE FUSE 29 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202D PANEL ATTACH STRIP FUSE 29 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202E-L BULKHEAD SIDE CHANNEL FUSE 23 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202E-R BULKHEAD SIDE CHANNEL FUSE 23 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202F BULKHEAD FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202H-L CANOPY RIB FUSE 29 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202H-R CANOPY RIB FUSE 29 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202J INST STACK ANGLE FUSE 29 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202K INST STACK SUPPORT FUSE 29 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202L GUSSET FUSE 23 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202M CANOPY ATTACH DOUBLER FUSE 29 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202N-L FWD SKIN STIFFENER FUSE 29 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202N-R FWD SKIN STIFFENER FUSE 29 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202S GPS MOUNT BRACKET GARMIN X MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202T INST PANEL LEFT D-180 FUSE 29 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202U INST PANEL RIGHT MAPBOX FUSE 29 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1202Y STRUT ATTACH ANGLE FUSE 29 4 MATERIAL.125X1X T6 EXTRUSION F-1203A BULKHEAD FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1203B BULKHEAD FLANGE FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1203C STUB SPAR RECEPTACLE FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 BARE SHEET F-1203D STUB SPAR RECEPTACLE SUPPORT FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1203E BULKHEAD DOUBLER FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1203G-L BULKHEAD SIDE CHANNEL FUSE 23 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1203G-R BULKHEAD SIDE CHANNEL FUSE 23 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1203H ARM REST BRACKET FUSE 23 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1203J BULKHEAD DOUBLER FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1204 CENTER SECTION ASSEMBLY FUSE 20 2 MANUFACTURED 6061-T T3 BRONZE F-1204CL-L FWD BULKHEAD SIDE ASSEMBLY FUSE 21 9 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1204CL-R FWD BULKHEAD SIDE ASSEMBLY FUSE 20 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1204D CENTER SECTION AFT BULKHEAD FUSE 20 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1204F-L AFT SIDE BULKHEAD FUSE 20 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1204F-R AFT SIDE BULKHEAD FUSE 20 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1204H BULKHEAD CAP FUSE 21 9 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1204M ROLLER FUSE 21 9 MANUFACTURED DELRIN OR NYLON F-1204P SKIN ATTACH FLANGE FUSE 20 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1204R RETAINER BLOCK FUSE 20 2 MANUFACTURED.750 UHMW SHEET F-1204T SKIN STIFFENER FUSE 20 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1204Y WIRE RUN CONDUIT FINISH 31 3 MATERIAL DUCT NT5/8 F-1204Z BOTTOM STIFFENER FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1205A MID-FUSE BRACE FUSE 23 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1205B ROLL BAR ATTACH PLATE FUSE 23 3 MANUFACTURED T3 BARE SHEET F-1205C MID-FUSE BRACE CLOSE-OUT FUSE 23 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1205G ELT BRACKET AVIONICS MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD F-1206A BULKHEAD FUSE 21 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1206B REAR SPAR RECEPTACLE SUPPORT FUSE 21 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET Page 2 of 7 1/19/2011

11 PART NUMBER NOMENCLATURE SUB-KIT SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE: MAKE FROM MATERIAL: PART NUMBER NOMENCLATURE SUB-KIT SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE: MAKE FROM MATERIAL: F-1206C REAR SPAR RECEPTACLE FUSE 21 2 MANUFACTURED T3 BARE OR ALCLAD SHEET F-1206D BEARING BRACKET FUSE 21 2 MANUFACTURED T3 BARE SHEET F-1206E BAGGAGE COVER FINISH 33 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1206F BEARING BRACKET BRACE FUSE 21 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1206G-L BAGGAGE RIB FUSE 21 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1206G-R BAGGAGE RIB FUSE 21 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1206H-L BAGGAGE RIB FUSE 21 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1206H-R BAGGAGE RIB FUSE 21 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1207A BAGGAGE BULKHEAD FUSE 24 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1207B BAGGAGE BULKHEAD FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1207C BAGGAGE BULKHEAD FUSE 24 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1207D-L BAGGAGE BULKHEAD CHANNEL FUSE 24 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1207D-R BAGGAGE BULKHEAD CHANNEL FUSE 24 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1207E SHOULDER STRAP LUG FUSE 25 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1207F BAGGAGE BULKHEAD CORRUGATION FINISH 33 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1207J ATTACH ANGLE FUSE 24 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1207K BRACE ANGLE FUSE 24 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1208A WEAR PLATE TAILCONE 10 2 MANUFACTURED.125 UHMW SHEET F-1208B-L MAG BRACKET AV-D MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1208B-R MAG BRACKET AV-D MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1208-L FUSELAGE FRAME TAILCONE 10 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1208-R FUSELAGE FRAME TAILCONE 10 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1209-L FUSELAGE FRAME TAILCONE 10 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1209-R FUSELAGE FRAME TAILCONE 10 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F V-STAB SKIN RIB TAILCONE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1210A-L FUSELAGE FRAME TAILCONE 10 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1210A-R FUSELAGE FRAME TAILCONE 10 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1210B PLATE TAILCONE 10 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1210C ANGLE TAILCONE 10 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F CABLE-SHOULDER HARNESS FINISH 33 3 MANUFACTURED 5/32" 7 X 19 GALVANIZED CABLE F SIDE HINGE FINISH 38 3 MATERIAL AN257-P3 F MID COWL HINGE FUSE 29 2 MATERIAL AN257-P3 F LWR COWL HINGE FUSE 23 8 MATERIAL AN257-P3 F COWL ATTACH PLATE FUSE 22 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F TREAD KIT FINISH 33 4 MANUFACTURED N/A F-1211A AFT BULKHEAD TAILCONE 10 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1211B DOUBLER TAILCONE 10 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1211C HINGE BRACKET TAILCONE 10 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1211D ATTACH BRACKET TAILCONE 10 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1211G TAIL SKID BRACKET TAILCONE 10 3 MANUFACTURED AEX TIE DOWN 6061-T6 F-1211G-DT DRILL TEMPLATE TAILCONE 10 3 MANUFACTURED.020 MIN T3 OR 6061-T6 F STANDOFF GARMIN X MATERIAL.058X5/ T6 TUBE F ELT BRACKET FINISH MANUFACTURED N/A F-12123A FUSE HOLDER AVIONICS 42 3 MANUFACTURED WHITE DELRIN F-12123B DOUBLE SIDED VELCRO TAPE AVIONICS 42 3 MATERIAL VELCRO TAPE 3/4" OR 1" WIDE F-12123C FUSE HOLDER LABEL AV-D MANUFACTURED N/A F OVER RUDDER WIREWAY FINISH MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-12125B WIREWAY FOAM STRIPS FINISH MATERIAL FOAM 1/16 X 1/4 V1110 F-12125C WIREWAY BRACKET FINISH MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1212-L STEP RIB FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1212-R STEP RIB FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1213-L STEP FLOOR FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1213-R STEP FLOOR FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1214 STEP FLOOR COVER FINISH 33 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1215-L SEAT RIB FUSE 21 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1215-R SEAT RIB FUSE 21 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1216 SEAT BELT ATTACH LUG SUPPORT FUSE 21 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1217A-L TUNNEL RIB FUSE 22 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1217A-R TUNNEL RIB FUSE 22 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1217B RUDDER PEDAL ACCESS COVER FINISH 33 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1218 FLAPERON MIXER BRACKET FUSE 21 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1219 FLAPERON MIXER ARM FUSE 21 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1220A FORWARD INTERCOSTAL FUSE 21 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1220B AFT INTERCOSTAL FUSE 21 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1221-L BAGGAGE RIB FUSE 21 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1221-R BAGGAGE RIB FUSE 21 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1222-L BAGGAGE RIB FUSE 21 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1222-R BAGGAGE RIB FUSE 21 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1223-L BAGGAGE RIB FUSE 21 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1223-R BAGGAGE RIB FUSE 21 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1224-L BAGGAGE FLOOR FUSE 21 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1224-R BAGGAGE FLOOR FUSE 21 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1225-L SEAT FLOOR FUSE 21 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1225-R SEAT FLOOR FUSE 21 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1226-L SEAT RAMP FLOOR FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1226-R SEAT RAMP FLOOR FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1227 SEAT RAMP COVER FINISH 33 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1228 SEAT FLOOR COVER FINISH 33 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1229 BAGGAGE FLOOR COVER FINISH 33 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1230 TUNNEL COVER FINISH 33 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1231A-AL ROLL BAR FRAME FUSE 24 2 MANUFACTURED T6 SHEET F-1231A-AR ROLL BAR FRAME FUSE 24 2 MANUFACTURED T6 SHEET F-1231A-FL ROLL BAR FRAME FUSE 24 2 MANUFACTURED T6 SHEET F-1231A-FR ROLL BAR FRAME FUSE 24 2 MANUFACTURED T6 SHEET F-1231B OUTBOARD ROLL BAR STRAP FUSE 24 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1231C INBOARD ROLL BAR STRAP FUSE 24 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1231D ROLL BAR BASE FUSE 24 2 MANUFACTURED 6061-T6 EXTRUSION F-1231E ROLL BAR SPLICE PLATE FUSE 24 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1231F LATCH PLATE FUSE 24 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F L BRACKET GTX MANUFACTURED T3 ALCAD F R BRACKET GTX MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD F-1232A ROLL BAR BRACE FUSE 24 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1232B ROLL BAR BRACE BRACKET FUSE 24 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1233A CONTROL COLUMN MOUNT SPACER FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1233B-L CONTROL COLUMN MOUNT BRACKET FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1233B-R CONTROL COLUMN MOUNT BRACKET FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1234-L CANOPY DECK FUSE 23 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1234-R CANOPY DECK FUSE 23 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1235A INBD RUDDER PEDAL BLOCK FUSE 27 2 MANUFACTURED.750 UHMW SHEET F-1235B OUTBD RUDDER PEDAL BLOCK FUSE 27 2 MANUFACTURED.750 UHMW SHEET F-1236 STEP ATTACHMENT ANGLE FUSE MANUFACTURED.125 X1X T6 EXTRUSION F-1237A SEATBACK FUSE 26 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1237BD SEATBACK ANGLE FUSE 26 2 MANUFACTURED T6 SHEET F-1237C-L SEATBACK ANGLE FUSE 26 2 MANUFACTURED T6 SHEET Page 3 of 7 1/19/2011

12 PART NUMBER NOMENCLATURE SUB-KIT SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE: MAKE FROM MATERIAL: PART NUMBER NOMENCLATURE SUB-KIT SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE: MAKE FROM MATERIAL: F-1237C-R SEATBACK ANGLE FUSE 26 2 MANUFACTURED T6 SHEET F-1237E SEATBACK HINGE FUSE 21 6 MATERIAL AN257-P3 F-1237F SEATBACK BRACE HINGE FUSE 26 2 MATERIAL AN257-P2 F-1237G SEATBACK BRACE FUSE 26 2 MANUFACTURED T6 SHEET F-1237H SEATBACK HINGE FUSE 26 2 MATERIAL AN257-P3 F-1238 SNAP BUSHING BRACKET TAILCONE 10 9 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1239 RUDDER CABLE FINISH MANUFACTURED 1/8 7X19 GALVANIZED CABLE F-1240 UPPER FORWARD FUSELAGE SKIN FUSE 29 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1240B COVER PLATE FUSE 29 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1240C CLIP FUSE 29 5 MATERIAL T3 ALCLAD SHEET.500X1.685 F-1247A FWD STABILATOR CABLE FINISH MANUFACTURED 1/8 7X19 GALVANIZED CABLE F-1247B AFT STABILATOR CABLE FINISH MANUFACTURED 1/8 7X19 GALVANIZED CABLE F-1248B FUSELAGE PIN LATCH FUSE 23 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1248-L ARM REST FUSE 23 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1248-R ARM REST FUSE 23 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1250 PULLEY BRACKET FUSE 21 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1251 NUTPLATE BRACKET FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1252 FLAPERON STOP FUSE 21 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1253 SEAT FLOOR SUPPORT FUSE 21 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1254-L SUPPORT FRAME FUSE 24 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1254-R SUPPORT FRAME FUSE 24 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1255-L LONGERON FUSE 23 2 MATERIAL.125X3/4X3/ T6 EXTRUSION F-1255-R LONGERON FUSE 23 2 MATERIAL.125X3/4X3/ T6 EXTRUSION F-1256 SKIN STIFFENER FUSE 23 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1257 RUDDER PEDAL SUPPORT CHANNEL FUSE 22 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1257B BATTERY ANTI-CHAFE STRIPS POWERPLANT 45 2 MATERIAL MS N F-1258 RUDDER CABLE LINK FINISH MANUFACTURED STEEL SHEET F-1259A FUEL VALVE BRACKET FUSE 28 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1259B FUEL VALVE BRACKET CLIP FUSE 28 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1259C FUEL LINE FLOSCAN - FWALL FUSE 28 5 MATERIAL.035X3/ TUBE F-1259D FUEL LINE VALVE-FLOSCAN FUSE 28 5 MATERIAL.035X3/ TUBE F-1259E FUEL LINE PUMP - VALVE FUSE 28 4 MATERIAL.035X3/ TUBE F-1259F FUEL LINE TANK - PUMP FUSE 28 3 MATERIAL.035X3/ TUBE F-1259G FUEL VALVE BRACKET HANDLE FUSE 28 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1259H FUEL RETURN LINE AFT FUSE 28 6 MATERIAL.032X1/ TUBE F-1259K PADS FUSE 28 6 MATERIAL EA HOSE H175 F-1259M FUEL RETURN LINE FWD FUSE 28 6 MATERIAL.032X1/ TUBE F-1260A FLAP HANDLE TUBE FINISH 32 7 MATERIAL.035X7/ T6 TUBE F-1260B FLAP HANDLE FORK FINISH 32 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1260C FLAP HANDLE SPACER FINISH 32 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1261 SPACER (Includes 4 parts) FINISH 32 8 MANUFACTURED UHMW F-1262 FLAP HANDLE BLOCK FINISH 32 4 MANUFACTURED.750 UHMW SHEET F-1263 FLAPERON MIXER BELLCRANK FINISH 32 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1264 CONTROL STICK PUSHROD FINISH 32 4 MATERIAL.058X5/ T6 TUBE F-1265 FLAPERON PUSHROD FINISH 32 6 MATERIAL.058X3/ T6 TUBE F-1266AD FLAP DETENT BRACKET/ STOP FINISH 32 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1266B FLAP DETENT BRACKET PLATE FINISH 32 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1266C FLAP DETENT BRACKET ANGLE FINISH 32 7 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1267A CROTCH STRAP BRACKET FUSE 21 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1267B CROTCH STRAP BRACKET FUSE 21 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1268 DOUBLER FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1270 FUSELAGE SIDE SKIN FUSE 23 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1270B FUSELAGE SIDE COVER FINISH 31 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1270C TERMINAL BLOCK FINISH 31 2 MATERIAL PS UHMW SHEET.125X2X2 1/4 F-1271-L FWD FUSE CORNER SKIN FUSE 22 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1271-R FWD FUSE CORNER SKIN FUSE 22 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1272 FWD FUSE FLOOR SKIN FUSE 22 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1273-L BAGGAGE CORNER SKIN FUSE 25 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1273-R BAGGAGE CORNER SKIN FUSE 25 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1274-L FUSELAGE CORNER SKIN FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1274-R FUSELAGE CORNER SKIN FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1275A FUSELAGE CORNER SKIN FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1275B FUSELAGE CORNER SKIN FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1275C FUSELAGE CORNER SKIN FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1275D FUSELAGE CORNER SKIN FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1275E FUSELAGE CORNER SKIN FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1275F FUSELAGE CORNER SKIN FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1275G COVER PLATE FINISH 35 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1276 BOTTOM SKIN FUSE MANUFACTURED T3 ALCALD SHEET F-1276B COVER PLATE FINISH 35 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1276C SYSTEMS BLOCK FUSE 28 4 MANUFACTURED.250 UHMW SHEET F-1277A AFT WINDOW FUSE 25 5 MANUFACTURED.125 LEXAN MARGUARD MR5000 SHEET F-1277-L FWD TURTLE DECK SKIN FUSE 25 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1277-R FWD TURTLE DECK SKIN FUSE 25 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1278 TOP SKIN TAILCONE 10 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1279-L UPPER LEFT SKIN TAILCONE 10 9 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1279-R UPPER RIGHT SKIN TAILCONE 10 9 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1280-L LEFT SIDE SKIN TAILCONE 10 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1280-R RIGHT SIDE SKIN TAILCONE 10 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1281-L LOWER LEFT SKIN TAILCONE 10 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1281-R LOWER RIGHT SKIN TAILCONE 10 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1282-L BOTTOM LEFT SKIN TAILCONE 10 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1282-R BOTTOM RIGHT SKIN TAILCONE 10 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1283 J-STIFFENER TAILCONE 10 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1284 SHEAR CLIP TAILCONE 10 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1285 COWL BOTTOM CLOSE-OUT FINISH 38 9 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1285B-1 COWL CLOSE-OUT BRACKET FINISH 38 9 MANUFACTURED GA STAINLESS SHEET F-1287A SERVO TRAY TAILCONE 11 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1287B DOUBLER TAILCONE 11 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1287C LINK TAILCONE 11 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1287D CLEVIS BRACKET TAILCONE 11 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1287E PUSHROD TAILCONE 11 7 MANUFACTURED.035X T6 TUBE F-1287F THREADED INSERT TAILCONE 11 7 MANUFACTURED T6 ALUMINUM ROD F-1287G SPACER TAILCONE 11 5 MATERIAL.058X5/ T6 TUBE F-1287H SPACER TAILCONE 11 5 MATERIAL.058X5/ T6 TUBE F-1288 COOLER STIFFENER FUSE 22 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET F-1289A-L RESERVOIR BRAKE LINE FUSE 27 5 MATERIAL.062X1/4 PLASTIC TUBE F-1289A-R RESERVOIR BRAKE LINE FUSE 27 5 MATERIAL.062X1/4 PLASTIC TUBE F-1289B-L CROSS-OVER BRAKE LINE FUSE 27 4 MATERIAL.062X1/4 PLASTIC TUBE F-1289B-R CROSS-OVER BRAKE LINE FUSE 27 4 MATERIAL.062X1/4 PLASTIC TUBE F-1289C-L MAIN BRAKE LINE FUSE 27 4 MATERIAL.062X1/4 PLASTIC TUBE F-1289C-R MAIN BRAKE LINE FUSE 27 4 MATERIAL.062X1/4 PLASTIC TUBE F-1289D-L CALIPER BRAKE LINE FINISH 35 4 MATERIAL.032X1/ TUBE F-1289D-R CALIPER BRAKE LINE FINISH 35 4 MATERIAL.032X1/ TUBE Page 4 of 7 1/19/2011

13 PART NUMBER NOMENCLATURE SUB-KIT SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE: MAKE FROM MATERIAL: PART NUMBER NOMENCLATURE SUB-KIT SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE: MAKE FROM MATERIAL: F-1290 PEDAL BLOCK FUSE 27 3 MANUFACTURED UHMW F-1294A UPPER TAILCONE FAIRING FINISH 12 6 MANUFACTURED FIBERGLASS-EPOXY F-1294B LOWER TAILCONE FAIRING FINISH 12 6 MANUFACTURED FIBERGLASS-EPOXY F-1294C TABS TAILCONE 12 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET FF FRICTION COMB POWERPLANT 49 9 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET FF-1201 PITOT BLOCK POWERPLANT 47 2 MANUFACTURED.500 UHMW SHEET FF-1202 PITOT TUBE POWERPLANT 47 2 MANUFACTURED.058X5/ T6 TUBE FF-1204A COOLER BOX FACE POWERPLANT 49 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET FF-1204B UPPER COOLER BOX RIB POWERPLANT 49 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET FF-1204C LOWER COOLER BOX RIB POWERPLANT 49 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET FF-1205 COOLER BOX DOOR POWERPLANT 49 3 MANUFACTURED STAINLESS SHEET FF-1205B COOLER BOX BRACKET POWERPLANT 49 3 MANUFACTURED STAINLESS SHEET FF-1206 COOLER BOX HINGE POWERPLANT 49 2 MATERIAL MS20257C4-4 STAINLESS STEEL HINGE FF-1206C HINGE PIN POWERPLANT 49 2 MATERIAL SSP-120 FF-1207 COOLING SHROUD POWERPLANT 46 5 MANUFACTURED E-GLASS / EPOXY FF-1207B SHROUD HOSE POWERPLANT MATERIAL 2.5 INCH SCAT HOSE FF-1208A RADIATOR HOSE - INPUT POWERPLANT 49 2 MATERIAL EA HOSE H151 FF-1208B RADIATOR HOSE - OUTPUT POWERPLANT 49 2 MATERIAL EA HOSE H151 FF-1208C EXPANSION SPRING POWERPLANT 49 2 MANUFACTURED STAINLESS STEEL.120 WIRE DIA.750 PITCH FF-1209 SEAL FACE POWERPLANT 49 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET FF-1210 CABLE END POWERPLANT 49 8 MANUFACTURED.049X5/16 304WD SS OR 316 SS TUBE FF-1212 OIL COOLER FRAME POWERPLANT 49 9 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD FF-1213 OIL COOLER FRAME BOTTOM POWERPLANT 49 9 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD FF-1214 OIL COOLER FACEPLATE POWERPLANT 49 9 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD FF-1215 OIL COOLER SPACER POWERPLANT 49 9 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD FF-1216 PITOT LINE POWERPLANT 45 4 MATERIAL.030X1/ TUBE FF-1217 PITOT INTERCONNECT POWERPLANT 47 2 MATERIAL.062X3/ TUBE FF-1218 OIL TANK VENT TUBE POWERPLANT 49 5 MATERIAL.062X3/ TUBE FF-1219 OIL VENT INTERCONNECT POWERPLANT 49 5 MATERIAL EA H177 HOSE FF-1220 OVERFLOW BOTTLE HOSE POWERPLANT 49 5 MATERIAL EA HOSE H460 FF-1221 HOSE BRACKET POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED STEEL FF-1222 MANIFOLD PRESSURE HOSE POWERPLANT MATERIAL EA HOSE H460 FLO-SCAN OR FT-60 FUEL FLOW TRANSDUCER FUSE 28 5 MANUFACTURED N/A FUEL TANK TEST KIT FUEL TANK TEST KIT FINISH 33 7 MANUFACTURED N/A FUEL VALVE FUEL VALVE FUSE 28 2 MANUFACTURED N/A GAS-5 GASCOLATOR FUSE 28 5 MANUFACTURED N/A HS-1201 MAIN SKIN STABILATOR 9 8 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1202 FWD SPAR STABILATOR 9 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1203 AFT SPAR STABILATOR 9 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1204 FWD INBD RIB STABILATOR 9 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1205 FWD OUTBD RIB STABILATOR 9 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1206 INBD MAIN RIB STABILATOR 9 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1207 OUTBD MAIN RIB STABILATOR 9 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1208 AFT RIB STABILATOR 9 9 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1209 SPAR CAP SPACER STABILATOR 9 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1210 HINGE STOP STABILATOR 9 5 MATERIAL.058X5/ T6 TUBE HS-1211 SPAR CAP STABILATOR 9 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1212 INSPAR RIB STABILATOR 9 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1213 HINGE BRACKET STABILATOR 9 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1214 RIB CLIP STABILATOR 9 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1215 SKIN SPLICE PLATE STABILATOR 9 9 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1216 AFT MAIN RIB STABILATOR 9 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1217 AFT SKIN STABILATOR 9 9 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1218A AFT HINGE STABILATOR 9 7 MATERIAL AN257-P3 HS-1218B AST HINGE STABILATOR 8 3 MATERIAL AN257-P3 HS-1219-L AST SPAR STABILATOR 8 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1219-R AST SPAR STABILATOR 8 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1220 AST CONTROL HORNS STABILATOR 8 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1221-L LEFT AST SKIN STABILATOR 8 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1221-R RIGHT AST SKIN STABILATOR 8 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1222 AST RIB STABILATOR 8 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1223 DRILL GUIDE STABILATOR 8 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET HS-1224 DOUBLER STABILATOR 9 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET IE F-385B FUEL SENDING UNIT TANK 37 4 MANUFACTURED N/A IF DYNON DEK DYNON EFIS/EMS AV-D MANUFACTURED N/A MAP BOX DOOR ALUM SHEET FUSE 29 6 MATERIAL T3 ALCLAD SHEET 4.032X6.31 MAPBOX MAP BOX HALF FUSE 29 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET MS21251-B5S BARREL FINISH MANUFACTURED N/A MS N NYLON GROMMET FINISH 32 9 MANUFACTURED N/A MS B PULLEY FINISH MANUFACTURED N/A PLA ELSA DATA PLATE STAINLESS DATA PLATE CERTIFICATION 51 5 MANUFACTURED N/A PLA EXPERIMENTAL 2" 2" DECAL 'EXPERMENTAL' CERTIFICATION 51 3 MANUFACTURED N/A PLA NO PUSH BLACK NO PUSH PLACARD BLACK CERTIFICATION 51 5 MANUFACTURED N/A PLA NO PUSH WHITE NO PUSH PLACARD WHITE CERTIFICATION 51 5 MANUFACTURED N/A PLA OPEN (RIGHT) CANOPY OPEN DECAL CW CERTIFICATION 51 6 MANUFACTURED N/A PT 1/2ODX2 CLEAR PLASTIC TUBE FINISH 35 5 MATERIAL 3/8X1/2X2" CLEAR TUBE R-1014 COUNTERBALANCE WEIGHT STABILATOR 9 10 MANUFACTURED LEAD R-1201 MAIN SKIN RUDDER 7 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET R-1202 SPAR RUDDER 7 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET R-1203 MAIN RIB RUDDER 7 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET R-1204 SPAR CAP RUDDER 7 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET R-1205 HINGE BRACKET RUDDER 7 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET R-1206 RUDDER TIP FAIRING RUDDER 12 2 MANUFACTURED FIBERGLASS-POLYESTER RV-12 DWG 1 3-VIEW DRAWING V STAB MANUFACTURED 24 X 36 WHITE PAPER RV-12 DWG 2 CUT-AWAY DRAWING V STAB MANUFACTURED 24 X 36 WHITE PAPER RV-12 MANUAL SECTION 42 AVIONICS KIT ASSY INSTRUCTIONS AV-D180 MANUFACTURED 11 X 17, 3 HOLE PUNCHED LEFT SIDE, DUPL RV-12 MANUAL SECTION 51 DOCUMENTATION KIT ASSY INSTRUCT. CERTIFICATION MANUFACTURED 11 X 17, 3 HOLE PUNCHED LEFT SIDE, DUPL RV-12 MANUAL SECTIONS 1-5 GETTING STARTED INSTRUCTIONS V STAB MANUFACTURED 11 X 17, 3 HOLE PUNCHED LEFT SIDE, DUPL RV-12 MANUAL SECTIONS WING KIT ASSY INSTRUCTIONS WING MANUFACTURED 11 X 17, 3 HOLE PUNCHED LEFT SIDE, DUPL RV-12 MANUAL SECTIONS FUSE KIT ASSY INSTRUCTIONS FUSE MANUFACTURED 11 X 17, 3 HOLE PUNCHED LEFT SIDE, DUPL RV-12 MANUAL SECTIONS 30-35, FINISH KIT ASSY INSTRUCTIONS WING MANUFACTURED 11 X 17, 3 HOLE PUNCHED LEFT SIDE, DUPL RV-12 MANUAL SECTIONS POWERPLANT KIT ASSY INSTRUCTIONS POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED 11 X 17, 3 HOLE PUNCHED LEFT SIDE, DUPL RV-12 MANUAL SECTIONS 6-12 EMP/TAILCONE KIT ASSY INSTRUCTIONS V STAB MANUFACTURED 11 X 17, 3 HOLE PUNCHED LEFT SIDE, DUPL RV-12 PG 34-PLY TEMPLATE PLY TEMPLATE DRAWING FINISH MANUFACTURED 24 X 36 WHITE PAPER S-1201 SPINNER POWERPLANT 47 3 MANUFACTURED E-GLASS / EPOXY S-1202 SPINNER PLATE POWERPLANT 47 3 MANUFACTURED T0 (NO HEAT TREAT) S-1202B BACK PLATE POWERPLANT 47 6 MATERIAL T3 ALCLAD SHEET 1 1/4 x 7 S-1203 FRONT SPINNER BULKHEAD POWERPLANT 47 3 MANUFACTURED T0 (NO HEAT TREAT) S-1207 BUSHING POWERPLANT 47 3 MANUFACTURED RULON S-1208 SPACER POWERPLANT 47 3 MANUFACTURED T6 ROD SBH-6X LAP/SHOULDER/CROTCH BELT SET FINISH 33 2 MANUFACTURED N/A STATIC-KIT STATIC KIT FOR ALL MODELS TAILCONE 10 8 MANUFACTURED N/A T-1201 MAIN TANK SKIN TANK 37 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET T-1202 FWD TANK BULKHEAD TANK 37 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET Page 5 of 7 1/19/2011

14 PART NUMBER NOMENCLATURE SUB-KIT SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE: MAKE FROM MATERIAL: PART NUMBER NOMENCLATURE SUB-KIT SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE: MAKE FROM MATERIAL: T-1203 AFT TANK BULKHEAD TANK 37 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET T-1204A TOP TANK SKIN TANK 37 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET T-1204B FLANGE TANK 37 5 MANUFACTURED.055X O TUBE T-1205 FWD TANK BRKT TANK 37 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET T-1207 FWD BAFFLE TANK 37 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET T-1208 BAFFLE TANK 37 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET T-1209 RES SENDER PLATE TANK 37 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET T-1210 FUEL WINDOW TANK 37 5 MANUFACTURED.100 RADEL R SHEET T-1211 FUEL NECK TANK 37 5 MANUFACTURED T-1211A AND T-406B T-1212 FUEL NECK COLLAR TANK 37 5 MATERIAL RUBBER FUEL HOSE 1.75 I.D. T BACKING PLATE TANK 37 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET T-1214 ATTACH ANGLE TANK 37 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET T-1215 TANK FUEL RETURN LINE TANK 37 6 MATERIAL.032X1/ TUBE T-407 RING TANK 37 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET TOOL ICM INSERT/EXTRACT D-SUB TOOL FINISH 31 7 MANUFACTURED N/A U 5.00 X 5 TIRE TIRE FINISH 35 2 MANUFACTURED N/A U 5:00X5-6IT INNER TUBE FINISH 35 2 MANUFACTURED N/A U-1202 OUTBD MAIN GEAR ATTACH BRKT FINISH 35 3 MANUFACTURED COLD ROLLED STEEL BAR U-1202B OUTBD WEAR PLATE FINISH 35 3 MANUFACTURED STEEL SHEET U-1203 INBD MAIN GEAR ATTCH BRKT FINISH 35 3 MANUFACTURED COLD ROLLED STEEL BAR U-1203B INBOARD WEAR PLATE FINISH 35 3 MANUFACTURED STEEL SHEET U-1203C DOUBLER PLATE FINISH 35 3 MANUFACTURED 1 1/4 X 5/ T3511 BAR U-1210A AXLE FINISH 35 6 MANUFACTURED T3 or 6061-T6 ROUND U-1210B SPACER FINISH 35 6 MANUFACTURED T3 or 6061-T6 ROUND U-1210C ANTI-ROTATION PLATE FINISH 35 6 MANUFACTURED T3 OR 6061-T6 SHEET U-1220-L GEAR LEG FINISH 35 3 MANUFACTURED T6 ALUMINUM PLATE U-1220-R GEAR LEG FINISH 35 3 MANUFACTURED T6 ALUMINUM PLATE U-611 WASHER FINISH 35 6 MANUFACTURED N/A U-MHMHE51B 5" WHEEL & BRAKE, E SERIES 1.25 FINISH 35 2 MANUFACTURED N/A U-WHLAXLE3A AXLE ASSEMBLY, A3A FINISH 35 3 MANUFACTURED N/A U-WHLNW51CC.625 NOSEWHEEL, 5".625 BEARING FINISH 35 2 MANUFACTURED N/A VA KNOB RED KIT FUSE 28 2 MANUFACTURED N/A VA-107 BRAKE RESERVOIR FINISH 32 2 MANUFACTURED N/A VA-110 FLAP KNOB FINISH 32 7 MANUFACTURED T3 OR 6061-T6 ROD VA-114 COMPRESSION SPRING FINISH 32 7 MANUFACTURED N/A VA-188 FLO-SCAN MOUNT BRACKET FUSE 28 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VA-188B STANDOFF FINISH 31 3 MATERIAL.058X5/ T6 TUBE VA-195A MOUNT PLATE WING 16 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VA-195B KEEPER PLATE WING 16 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VA-195H ACCESS HATCH WING 17 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VA-196 STALL WARNING VANE WING 16 2 MANUFACTURED STAINLESS VA-204 SEAL STRIP FINISH 33 4 MANUFACTURED K VA-205 DRIP PAN POWERPLANT 46 8 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VA-210 FUEL FLANGE TANK 37 2 MANUFACTURED ALUMINUM VA-213 OIL SUPPLY HOSE POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED N/A VA-214 OIL COOLER HOSE POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED N/A VA-215 OIL RETURN HOSE POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED N/A VA-216 FUEL RETURN ASY POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED N/A VA-219 RV-12 CONTROL CABLE BOLT POWERPLANT 50 4 MANUFACTURED N/A VA X 6 VINYL ENVELOPE W/FLAP CERTIFICATION 51 4 MANUFACTURED N/A VA-261 FUEL STRAINER TANK 37 2 MANUFACTURED N/A VA-262 TERMINAL TAB FINISH 31 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VA-263 OIL DOOR HINGE FINISH 38 8 MANUFACTURED T6 SHEET VA-263C OIL DOOR HINGE DOUBLER FINISH 38 8 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VELCRO X 5 DOUBLE SIDED VELCRO TAPE CERTIFICATION 51 4 MATERIAL VELCRO TAPE 3/4" OR 1" WIDE VS-1201 MAIN SKIN V STAB 6 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VS-1202 FRONT SPAR V STAB 6 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VS-1203 REAR SPAR V STAB 6 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VS-1204 FWD SKIN V STAB 6 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VS-1205 TIP RIB V STAB 6 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VS-1206 MID RIB V STAB 6 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VS-1207 UPR MAIN RIB V STAB 6 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VS-1208 LWR MAIN RIB V STAB 6 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VS-1210 HINGE BRACKET V STAB 6 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VS-1211 HINGE SPACER V STAB 6 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VS-1212-L SPAR CAP V STAB 6 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VS-1212-R SPAR CAP V STAB 6 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET VS-1213 V-STAB TIP FAIRING V STAB 12 2 MANUFACTURED FIBERGLASS-POLYESTER W-1201B-L INBD UPR WING SKIN WING 17 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1201B-R INBD UPR WING SKIN WING 17 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1201C-L WING WALK DOUBLER WING 17 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1201C-R WING WALK DOUBLER WING 17 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1201-L INBD WING SKIN WING 17 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1201-R INBD WING SKIN WING 17 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1202B MID UPR WING SKIN WING 17 4 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1202-L MID WING SKIN WING 17 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1202-R MID WING SKIN WING 17 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1203B-L OUTBD UPR WING SKIN WING 17 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1203B-R OUTBD UPR WING SKIN WING 17 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1203-L OUTBD WING SKIN WING 17 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1203-R OUTBD WING SKIN WING 17 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1204A-L WING TIP FWD SKIN WING 17 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1204A-R WING TIP FWD SKIN WING 17 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1204B WING TIP AFT SKIN WING 17 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1204C WING TIP BOTTOM SKIN WING 17 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1204D WING TIP CLOSE-OUT WING 17 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1204E-L FWD WING TIP RIB WING 17 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1204E-R FWD WING TIP RIB WING 17 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1204F-L AFT WING TIP RIB WING 17 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1204F-R AFT WING TIP RIB WING 17 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1204G-L HAND HOLD WING 17 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1204G-R HAND HOLD WING 17 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1204H-L WING TIP TRAILING EDGE WING 17 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1204H-R WING TIP TRAILING EDGE WING 17 6 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1205B TERMINAL BLOCK WING 16 2 MATERIAL.125 UHMW SHEET 2X2 1/4 W-1205B/F-1270C GUIDE UHMW DRILL TEMPLATE WING 16 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1205-L TERMINAL BRACKET WING 16 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1205-R TERMINAL BRACKET WING 16 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1206-L SPAR ASSEMBLY WING 13 2 MANUFACTURED 2024-T3 ALUMINUM W-1206-R SPAR ASSEMBLY WING 13 2 MANUFACTURED 2024-T3 ALUMINUM W-1206T ATTACH ANGLE WING 13 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1206V ATTACH ANGLE WING 13 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1206Y MAIN SPAR BUSHING GAUGE PIN CERTIFICATION MANUFACTURED 6061-T6 BAR W-1207A-L REAR SPAR WEB WING 14 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET Page 6 of 7 1/19/2011

15 PART NUMBER NOMENCLATURE SUB-KIT SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE: MAKE FROM MATERIAL: PART NUMBER NOMENCLATURE SUB-KIT SECT# PAGE# PART TYPE: MAKE FROM MATERIAL: W-1207A-R REAR SPAR WEB WING 14 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1207B REAR SPAR DOUBLER PLATE WING 14 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1207C TIP ATTACH ANGLE WING 14 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1208B STUB SPAR DOUBLER WING 14 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1208C-L STUB SPAR CHANNEL WING 14 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1208C-R STUB SPAR CHANNEL WING 14 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1208-L NOSE RIB WING 15 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1208-R NOSE RIB WING 15 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1210B RIB DOUBLER WING 13 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1210-L MAIN RIB WING 15 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1210-R MAIN RIB WING 15 3 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1212A FLAPERON HINGE PLATE WING 14 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1212B-L FLAPERON HINGE WING 14 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1212B-R FLAPERON HINGE WING 14 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1213-L TIP RIB WING 17 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1213-R TIP RIB WING 17 5 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1216B HINGE RIB WING 15 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1216-L FLAPERON HINGE BRACKET WING 14 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET W-1216-R FLAPERON HINGE BRACKET WING 14 2 MANUFACTURED T3 ALCLAD SHEET WD-1201 NOSE GEAR ASSY FINISH 35 6 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1204 ENGINE MOUNT BRACKET FUSE 22 2 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1205 RUDDER HORN RUDDER 7 2 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1206 RUDDER PEDAL FUSE 27 2 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1207 STABILATOR UPPER HORN STABILATOR 9 3 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1208 STABILATOR LOWER HORN STABILATOR 9 3 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1209 BRAKE PEDAL FUSE 27 2 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1210 CONTROL COLUMN FUSE MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1211-L BRAKE PEDAL TORQUE TUBE FUSE 27 2 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1211-R BRAKE PEDAL TORQUE TUBE FUSE 27 2 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1212 CONTROL STICK FINISH 32 5 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1213 FLAP HANDLE FINISH 32 3 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1214-L FLAPERON TORQUE TUBE FINISH 32 8 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1214-R FLAPERON TORQUE TUBE FINISH 32 8 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1215-L FLAPERON TORQUE ARM FINISH 32 6 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1215-R FLAPERON TORQUE ARM FINISH 32 6 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1216 FLAP HANDLE PUSHROD FINISH 32 3 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WH-B170 AUTOPILOT WIRE FINISH 31 9 MATERIAL WIRE AUTOPILOT SERVO WH-B179 (FINISH) COCKPIT LIGHT POWER WIRE FINISH 40 9 MATERIAL WIRE #22 (WHT) WH-B180 (FINISH) COCKPIT LIGHT POWER WIRE FINISH 40 9 MATERIAL WIRE #22 (WHT) WH-B183 WING GROUND WIRE FINISH 31 9 MATERIAL WIRE #18 (WHT) WH-B184 NAV-STROBE POWER WIRE FINISH 31 9 MATERIAL WIRE #20 OR #18 (WHT) WH-B216 TERMINAL GROUND WIRE WING 16 4 MATERIAL WIRE #18 (WHT) WH-B217 GROUND WIRE WING 16 3 MATERIAL WIRE #18 (WHT) WH-B218 TERMINAL WIRE WING 16 3 MATERIAL WIRE #18 (WHT) WH-B220 ELT GROUND WIRE AVIONICS MATERIAL WIRE #22 (WHT) WH-B54 POWER OUTLET GND FINISH MATERIAL WIRE #18 (WHT) WH-P149 BATTERY GROUND CABLE POWERPLANT 45 3 MANUFACTURED WIRE #8 WH-P150 BATTERY POWER CABLE POWERPLANT 45 3 MANUFACTURED WIRE #8 WH-P151 ENGINE GROUND CABLE POWERPLANT 45 3 MANUFACTURED WIRE #8 WH-P154 STARTER TO MASTER RELAY CABLE POWERPLANT 45 7 MANUFACTURED WIRE #8 WH-P155 STARTER POWER CABLE POWERPLANT 45 7 MANUFACTURED WIRE #8 WH-P30 TRIM WIRES TAILCONE 10 8 MANUFACTURED 5 CONDUCTOR 24 AWG WIRE WH-RV GPS WIRING HARNESS GARMIN X MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-APDC AUTOPILOT DISCONNECT FINISH 31 7 MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-DYNON DYNON D-180 HARNESS AV-D MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-EGT EXHAUST GAS TEMP WIRING HARNESS POWERPLANT 45 4 MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-FLTCOM403 INTERCOM WIRE HARNESS FLIGHTCOM MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-GTX327 TRANSPONDER WIRING HARNESS GARMIN COM-TX 42 6 MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-GTX328 TRANSPONDER WIRING HARNESS GTX MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-HEADSET HEADSET WIRING HARNESS FINISH MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-IGNITION IGNITION HARNESS POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-MUSIC MUSIC WIRING HARNESS FINISH MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-OAT OAT WIRING HARNESS FINISH 31 8 MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-OPTIONAL OPTIONAL WIRING HARNESS FINISH 31 7 MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-POWER POWER WIRING HARNESS POWERPLANT 45 4 MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-PTT-CP COPILOT PUSH TO TALK HARNESS FINISH MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-PTT-P PILOT PUSH TO TALK HARNESS FINISH MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-ROTAX FWALL FWD WIRING HARNESS POWERPLANT 45 4 MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-SL40 COM WIRING HARNESS GARMIN COM-TX 42 9 MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-SL-ANT COM ANTENNA CABLE FINISH 31 3 MANUFACTURED COAX WH-RV12-TUNNEL TUNNEL WIRING HARNESS FINISH 31 4 MANUFACTURED N/A WH-RV12-TX-ANT TRANSPONDER ANTENNA CABLE FINISH 31 3 MANUFACTURED COAX WD-1217 FUSELAGE PIN FINISH 30 2 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1217C FUSELAGE PIN STOPPER FINISH 30 2 MANUFACTURED T6 ROD WD-1218 CANOPY LATCH FINISH 34 7 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1219 CANOPY FRAME FINISH 34 2 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1220 ENGINE MOUNT RING POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1221 ENGINE MOUNT STANDOFF FINISH 35 2 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1221C-PC WASHER POWERPLANT MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1222 COUNTERBALANCE BRACKET STABILATOR 9 3 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1223 COUNTERBALANCE ARM STABILATOR 9 3 MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1230 NOSE FORK FINISH 35 6 MANUFACTURED 6061-T6 BRONZE WD-1233-L STEP FUSE MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WD-1233-R STEP FUSE MANUFACTURED 4130 STEEL WEDGE TOOL RIVETING TOOL V STAB 6 2 MATERIAL AEX WEDGE 11.9 WH SOFT START WIRING HARNESS POWERPLANT 45 7 MANUFACTURED N/A WH-B148 POWER OUTLET +V FINISH MATERIAL WIRE #18 (WHT) WH-B167 SPAR PIN INTERCONNECT WIRE FINISH 31 6 MATERIAL WIRE #22 (WHT) Page 7 of 7 1/19/2011

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17 VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. SECTION 5: CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS, PROCESSES AND USEFUL INFORMATION This section is not intended to be a complete manual on aircraft construction. We are only hitting the high points here. You should supplement this information with some of the publications listed in Section 1. 5A ALUMINUM & PRIMING & PAINTING All non-alclad aluminum parts such as 6061-T6 must be primed. Tubing must be primed both inside and out. WARNING: When installing threaded fittings/rod ends into primed tube be sure that the primer has cured fully. Failure to do so could result in seized bearings. The aluminum skins used on RV aircraft are all 2024-T3 alloy. They are "alclad", meaning that both sides of the sheet are coated at the mill with pure aluminum. This forms aluminum oxide, a corrosion resistant material which need not be primed or painted for adequate service as an airframe material. However, if the airplane is to be kept in a salt-air environment, or if a greater margin of corrosion protection is desired, priming the entire inside of the airframe is a good idea. Remember that priming will add cost, weight and time to your project. The majority of the parts in the kit have been coated in our plant with vinyl to protect them during manufacturing. We suggest that you remove the vinyl as soon as practical after inventorying your kit. (See 5M) The pre-assembled spars are anodized and need no additional protection. All aluminum bar, angle, and tube used in the RV-12 is not alclad and must be primed to assure corrosion resistance. The traditional primer used on aircraft aluminum has been Zinc Chromate. With proper surface cleaning, this is still a good primer. However, there are many newer primers available which are superior. Most of these are two part, catalytic curing primers. DUPONT VERI-PRIME (PRIMER #615 and CONVERTER #616S) DITZLER DP-40/50 EPOXY PRIMER CAUTION: When spray painting ANY primer, work in a well ventilated area and wear, at the very least, a UL approved respirator with carbon filters. Systems providing fresh filtered air have become more affordable in the last few years and provide the operator a superior level of comfort and safety. As the name "Metal Etching Primer'' implies, the catalyst component contains an acid which can be dangerous if breathed. Similar precautions must be taken for spraying any of the two -part primers and paints. Check with the paint supplier for exact precautions required. Primers like P60G2, Vari-Prime and others are relatively inexpensive, light and easy to apply. These characteristics make them appeal to many builders. They do need to be sprayed with a gun, which is awkward for some, but the pain can be minimized if you prepare large batches of parts to reduce set up and clean up time. Some aerosol primers are useful for small parts when you don't want to set up to spray a whole batch. Usually there won't be a problem with mixing and matching the type of primers used, but we don't know for sure. They are impractical for painting the whole airplane or large skins. Generally (not everyone will agree) it is accepted that two part epoxy primers provide the best corrosion resistance. However, they are expensive, toxic, heavy and dry slowly all of which makes them problematic for the home builder. If you can tolerate those issues and want your RV to be in good shape when your grandchildren inherit it, they may be "best" for you. Van's Aircraft does not have an "approved" primer. We use Sherwin Williams P60 G2. This is used on the QBs and prototypes made here. The QBs primer has no pigment so it just makes the interior surfaces slightly darker and less shiny. In the US, this primer has a green tint, so the two will not match exactly. We use this primer because It is inexpensive, dries fast, and is easy to apply. Sherwin Williams will tell you that the primer needs a top coat. True, for optimum corrosion resistance, but Vans feels that this is not necessary for the way in which most owners will maintain their RVs. Whatever you use, prepare the surface as per the manufacturers instructions. This can be as simple as washing with water, or as complex as acid etching and alodining. We have nothing to add to whatever they may advise. Historically, not many manufacturers primed the interior of their products, but there are still many flying 50 year old airplanes without corrosion problems. One favorite analogy round here is the car paint parable. Two cars leave the factory as identically primed and painted as is humanly possible. Five years later one looks the same as the day it left the showroom, the other, looks like it is fit for the wrecking yard. Same primer/paint, different result. How do you intend to look after your airplane? How you treat it has a much greater effect than the primer you choose. TEMPO brand Chromate in a spray can PRATT & LAMBERT Vinyl Zinc Chromate, EX-ER-7 and T-ER-4 Reducer SHERWIN WILLIAMS WASH PRIMER #P60G2 and Catalyst Reducer #R7K44 MARHYDE self etching primer, available in a spray can as well as quarts DATE: 02/22/10 REVISION: 1 RV-12 PAGE 05-01

18 VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. PAINTING An entire book could be written on the subject of aircraft painting and still leave many questions unanswered. There are many surface preparations, primers, and paints available, and more coming on the market every day. Paints range anywhere from the older enamels and acrylic lacquers up through the newer acrylic enamels, urethanes, and epoxy finishes. Which one is best probably depends on the end result desired by the individual builder. However, the urethanes seem to be favored by most builders now because of their relative ease of application and shiny, maintenance free finish. The purpose of this section is only to present some general ideas, not to provide the ''best way'' of applying the ''best'' paint. COLOR SCHEME Before getting serious about the type of paint to be used and the method and technique of application, most builders spend many months (or years?) while building trying to decide their paint scheme. Toward this end, little can be offered other than the suggestion that conservative colors and paint scheme will always look good on the basically good lines of an RV. More daring combinations of colors and patterns may result in a ''fabulous'' paint scheme, or could result in an eyesore which is too ''busy'' or gaudy to be appealing. Unless you have a very good eye for colors and patterns, it may not be worth the gamble. We have provided a three-view drawing for you to practice on. Just run off a few dozen copies of these drawings on your office copier (when the boss isn't looking), buy a box of colored pencils and start sketching out your dream scheme. Aside from the aesthetic aspects of color scheme selection, you might also give serious thought to recognition; i.e.; how well will your combination of colors stand out from the background when in flight. How visible will it be to pilots of other aircraft in flight? With the dense air traffic and haze of air pollution encountered around many airports, see-and-be-seen should be a major safety concern to all pilots. Light colors are generally considered to be the most visible against typical backgrounds found while flying in the USA. Yellow is probably the most universally visible, and can also be trimmed to provide very attractive paint schemes. The question of whether a painted or bare aluminum airplane goes faster is often raised. Experience with the prototype RVs has not provided a definitive answer, so it would appear that there is little difference in skin friction drag from a typical painted surface to a typical bare aluminum surface. PAINTING HEALTH HAZARDS Spray painting can present a health hazard, particularly with most of the newer two-part paints. Chemicals used in the hardeners of urethane, acrylic enamel, and epoxy paints cause them to be potentially very hazardous if breathed, and can be harmful even through excessive exposure to the skin. For this reason, the painting area must be well ventilated and a UL approved respirator must be used. A simple particle filter is just not good enough. Also, full coverage clothing should be used to prevent skin exposure. Builders sometimes disregard warnings on the likes of paint cans because they become indifferent after daily exposure to warnings on all sorts of relatively benign household items. But where modern paints products are concerned, the warning should be taken very seriously. Painting an airplane obviously adds to its weight. The amount of weight depends on the type and amount of paint, primer and surface filler used. The ''No-primer'' Imron process described above will weigh about 15 lbs; about minimum for a complete paint job. A really elaborate paint job with all the extras could add two or three times this weight. In addition, heavy paint jobs will tend to shift the Center of gravity rearward because of the paint weight on the empennage. Control surface balance on the RVs has not been found to be critical. A normal (light) paint application on the ailerons and elevator will not upset their balance to a noticeable degree. However, a heavy paint job will require that these surfaces be re-balanced and additional counter balance weight added if necessary. MASKING Application of masking tape for color separation and pin-striping is perhaps the most time consuming part of painting. Masking a straight line is tough enough, but getting just the right curve or ''sweep'' to a line is an art. Common hardware store masking tape usually gives poor results for distinct line separation because it permits too much ''bleed under''. Plastic ''decorator'' tape yields a nice crisp edge, but is rather expensive. Plastic electricians tape works fairly well and is relatively cheap. ''Scotch'' tape also works well, but is hard to remove after painting. There is no doubt that a smooth, wave free surface offers less aerodynamic drag than an imperfect one, but it is not known how much effect this will have on the speed of an RV. Probably not much unless the entire airframe is filled and smoothed before painting, and then the paint is rubbed-out perfectly smooth. This would entail much work, would add weight, and would probably not be advisable unless the builder wanted a 100 % perfect airplane rather than a 98% perfect one. The price for that last 2% would be high in terms of added work required. For the typical paint job, the builder obviously should try to work in a dust free environment so the paint surface will be as smooth as possible without the need for rub-out. Spanwise trim stripes should be avoided very near the wing leading edge. Much is being written about the effects of spanwise surface irregularities on the boundary layer control on airfoils, particularly those on canard configuration airplanes. The concern is that any surface irregularity near the wing leading edge, particularly spanwise ones, can disrupt the boundary layer airflow, upset laminar flow, and cause an increase in drag and a decrease in lift. On canard airplanes this can seriously affect not only performance, but also stability and control. On an RV, with its conventional configuration and non-laminar flow airfoil, the effects of surface irregularities are relatively minor. However, a rough paint trim line within the first few inches of the wing leading edge would probably cause a measurable effect on stall and top speeds. Trim lines more than 8-9 inches from the leading edge have a minimal effect, but even then should be rubbed out as smoothly as possible. WARNING: PLEASE TAKE PAINT CAN TOXIC WARNINGS SERIOUSLY!!! PAINTING (ONE EXAMPLE) While we are not presenting this to be the proven ''most ideal'' paint and procedure, it was used on the prototype RV-4 under ''home'' conditions and by amateur painters. It consists simply of preparing the bare ''alclad'' aluminum surface with an acid wash (DuPont 255S cleaner, Martin Senour 6879 Twin Etch, etc.), followed by an application of Alodine, and then directly by DuPont Imron Polyurethane paint. While a primer or primer/surfacer could be used between the Alodine and the Imron, it was left off as a weight saving measure. Only the minimum thickness of Imron was used to get the desired flow-out for a slick surface. After the Alodine application, the skins were completely dried to remove any moisture which might later contribute to filiform skins corrosion. This was done with an air nozzle and repeated passes over all metal seams and rivets. The RV-6 prototype was painted with a similar ''Minimum weight'' approach, but in this instance Ditzler Durethane paint was used. PAGE RV-12 REVISION: 1 DATE: 02/22/10

19

20 VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. 5B EDGE FINISHING, HOLE DEBURRING, AND SCRATCH REMOVAL 2024-T3 aluminum sheet is a relatively hard, brittle aluminum. Maintaining the high strength of this material in use requires that care be taken in its cutting, bending, and finishing. Because it is a hard material, it is scratch and notch sensitive. This means that sharp or rough edges, corners, and scratches can cause stress concentrations which will greatly increase the possibility of local failure, usually in the form of a small crack. The problem with small cracks is that they soon become large cracks, one piece of aluminum becomes two pieces, etc. Obviously, we do not want this happening in our airframe, particularly when separated from solid earth by a lot of very thin air. SHEARED ALUMINUM SHEET BURR SHARP EDGE TEAR MARKS FROM SHEAR FIGURE 1: EDGES OR THICKER FINISHED EDGES All aluminum edges and corners must be smoothed and radiused to prevent this stress concentration from occurring. Any sheared edge, whether sheared by hand or by machine, has sharp corners and has a burr on one edge as shown in Figure 1. This burr must be removed and the sharp edges rounded off. This can be done a number of ways; with a file, a Scotchbrite polishing wheel, sandpaper, or a burnishing (de-burring) tool. In most instances, the burnishing tool, followed by a pass or two over a Scotchbrite wheel mounted in a bench grinder, is the best and quickest method. A good test for the edge finish of aluminum sheet is to run your finger over it. If you can't feel any roughness and there is no chance of drawing blood, the finish is OK. You should not be able to see the original cutting marks on the material. In other words, if the sheet had been sawed (bandsaw or hacksaw), the saw marks should be removed in the process of smoothing. Scratches in the surface of aluminum can have the same weakening effects as rough edges, corners and holes. The alclad sheet being used is very easily scratched because of the thin layer of very soft aluminum used on the surface. Scratches within this surface layer will have little effect on strength, but deeper scratches will. The greatest difficulty is deciding how deep a scratch can be before it is a potential problem. The best solution to this is to take extra care to prevent scratches, and then to sand or buff out all scratches, no matter how small. Very light scratches can be removed with #600 wet sandpaper. Deeper ones will require #400 (or perhaps more coarse) sandpaper, followed by #600 for finishing. One thing to remember when removing scratches is that you also remove the alclad surface of the aluminum and thus the corrosion protection. Any area that has been sanded for scratch removal must be primed. 5C MARKING PARTS WARNING: NEVER use a scribe to make layout lines or other marks on aircraft parts. The lines can cause failure of the part along the lines with the vibration of the engine. The use of an ordinary lead pencil will cause corrosion of the aluminum. We recommend that you use only an extra fine point "Sharpie" pen. For some unexplained reason the blue ones seem to last longer than other colors. The sharpie ink will bleed through primer, so you can still see the ID marks after priming the parts. 5D RIVETING Two types of rivets are used in the construction of an RV; "AN" rivets, and "blind" rivets. Blind rivets are often referred to as Pop Rivets (although "Pop'' is actually a brand name). See the blind rivet identifier on page The RV-12 utilizes blind rivets to simplify and speed the construction process, and they are set using a pneumatic or hand-operated puller. See Figure 3 Page Two styles of AN rivets are used; universal head (AN470) and 100 countersunk head (AN426). Three diameter rivets are used; AD3 (3/32),AD 4 (1/8), and AD6 (3/16). While all the numbers and letters may be confusing at first, they convey useful information, as shown in the sketches at the end of this section. AN rivets are set with either a rivet gun and a bucking bar, or a rivet squeezer. Driving universal head rivets requires a rivet set of a size corresponding to the rivet head size. 3/16'' rivets are used in the main wing spar construction, and require a very high setting pressure, necessitating a heavy-duty rivet gun or a fairly large rivet squeezer. The RV kits have pre assembled spars so builders don't have to set 3/16" rivets. Rivets must be the correct length. If they are too long they tend to bend over like a nail, or "cleat". If they are too short, there is not enough material to form a full shop head. While the plans usually call out the rivet length required, there will still be places where the builder will need to know the correct method of determining rivet length. The rule of thumb is that the length of the rivet shank should equal the thickness of the material being riveted, plus 1.5 times the rivet diameter. For example, if we were to rivet an.016 skin to an.032 rib, the material thickness would equal.048. If we are using a #3 rivet (3/32" diameter), 1.5 times the rivet diameter would be 9/64". Checking a decimal equivalent chart we find that 9/64= By adding to 0.048, we arrive at a rivet length of Rivets come in increments of 1/16", so the nearest rivet would be an AD3-3; 3/16 or ". This formula works well for rivet lengths up to about 1/2" For thicker material, such as the wing spar, a greater rivet length allowance is required. Corners, particularly inside corners, must be cut with a radius to prevent cracking. See Figure 2.This radius can vary from 1/16'' for.016 thick aluminum to 1/8'' for.040 aluminum. The radius edge then must be smoothed just as the straight edges discussed above. A small round file works well for this. This is especially important where a bend line is intersecting the inside corner in question. Cracks are likely to occur at the sheet edge even if the bend radius is great enough. FLAT PATTERN A properly set rivet will have a shop head diameter of 1.5 times the shank diameter and a height of 1/2 the shank diameter. See Figure 3. A simple gauge is available from tool suppliers. As you gain experience, you will find that your eye is very accurate, and the gauge is needed only to "recalibrate" it. 1 1/2 RIVET DIA. MIN All drilled holes should also be de-burred. This is an easy but time-consuming chore, and can be done with an oversize drill bit, either held between your fingers and twisted, or in a variable speed drill running very slow. Special swivel deburring tools are also available from tool supply houses. These work better and are much quicker. Burrs around holes are a problem mainly in riveting and dimple countersinking. The burr can prevent a rivet head from seating properly and can make dimple countersinking difficult and inaccurate. Be very careful deburring holes in.020 or thinner sheet. By the time you have deburred both sides, the hole could be enlarged. BEND LINES BEND RELIEF AFTER BENDING NOTE: There are times when the correct rivet length is not available. Depending on the application a shorter rivet can be used or a longer rivet cut to the proper length. Using a longer rivet, as is, can result in the shank being bent over like a nail. We have chosen to use a rivet that may seem too short in some places, but will do the job adequately. 1/2 RIVET DIA. MIN The finishing procedures just described will constitute a sizable portion of the total building time. However, they are important for structural reasons as well as cosmetic. Most of these holes, edges, etc. will be inside the airframe and out of sight when the airplane is finished. This is no reason to consider them unimportant. The need for good edge finishing is most difficult to impress on new builders not accustomed to aircraft standards. FIGURE 2: BENDING Page illustrates the riveting process, rivet nomenclature, and some of the problems builders may encounter. Artist Tony Bingelis has managed to include a great deal of information in a small space. Those new to riveting will benefit from careful study of these drawings. See also Page Figure 3. FIGURE 3: FORMED RIVET DIMENSIONS PAGE RV-12 REVISION: 1 DATE: 02/22/10

21 5D (continued) DRILLING OUT RIVETS One of the common calls we get is "I had to drill out a bad rivet and now the hole is oversize. What do I do?". Sometimes this is done multiple times in the same hole and now the hole is so large that the builder has to use a bolt and nut instead of a rivet. See below. EXCERPT from Alcoa Aluminum Rivet Book, dated "The standards to which driven rivets should conform are frequently uncertain. In addition to dimensions and perfection of shape, inspection is concerned with whether the drive head is coaxial with the shank (not "clinched") and whether there is excessive cracking of the heads. It has been determined that even badly cracked heads are satisfactory from the standpoint of static strength, fatigue strength and resistance to corrosion. (Poorly set and cracked) rivet heads were tested in tension to determine how well formed a head has to be in order to develop full strength. The tensile strengths of all the rivets were within five percent of the strongest. The test indicated that minor deviations from the theoretically desired shape of head are not cause for concern or replacement. The second rivet that is driven in any one hole [is] likely to be more defective than the first because the hole is enlarged and [the] rivet will be more likely to buckle and form an imperfect head. Tests have shown that very small rivet heads are sufficient to develop the strength of the rivet shank, even when the rivets are subject to a straight tensile pull...where a large head is not needed for appearance, smaller sizes of drive head should be used to decrease the required driving pressures." AD3 RIVETS This recommendation is meant as a guideline, not an absolute rule. There may be instances where countersinking in 0.032" stock makes the job easier, and certainly can be used. One example is when a sheet is sandwiched between two other thicknesses. See Figure 2. In this case, the sheet receiving the factory countersunk head is dimpled, the sheet underneath is machine countersunk to receive the dimple, and the third sheet is left full thickness. When countersinking the second sheet you must go slightly deeper than you would for a rivet. Use the appropriate rivet or screw as a gage when you machine countersink. When the rivet/screw is flush, you are done. If there is going to be a dimpled skin riveted onto the machine countersunk surface, adjust the machine countersink tool a few "clicks" deeper than flush. This will make the rivet/screw sit about.005" below flush when dropped into the hole. FIGURE 3: SETTING BLIND RIVETS BELOW: HOW TO SET A BLIND RIVET IN A DIFFICULT LOCATION. USE PIECE OF VINYL CLAD SCRAP MATERIAL TO PROTECT FINISHED SURFACE. SEE SECT OF THE RV-12 BUILDER'S MANUAL FOR WEDGE TOOL. STEP 1: ALIGNING RIVET & PARTS FOLLOWING ILLUSTRATIONS SHOW PROPERLY SET BLIND RIVETS, AS WELL AS SOME POORLY SET RIVETS. VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. 90 CORRECT LP4-X SET CORRECTLY 3/32 1. TOP SHEET TOO THIN. COUNTERSINK ENLARGES HOLE. 5E COUNTERSINKING AND DIMPLING 3/32 2. MINIMUM ACCEPTABLE THICKNESS OF TOP SHEET. FIGURE 1: RIVETS AND SHEET THICKNESS 3/32 3. MORE THAN ADEQUATE THICKNESS OF TOP SHEET. SCRAP SHEET RIVET PULLER WEDGE TOOL 90 CORRECT CS4-X SET CORRECTLY SURFACE PART DEFORMED AND PARTS UNDERNEATH SEPARATE, APPLY ONLY ENOUGH FORCE TO HOLD MFG HEAD FLAT ON PART Flush riveting requires that a flat or "mushroom'' set be used and that the skin around the rivet hole be countersunk either by dimpling or machining. Be sure to remove any vinyl coating before machine countersinking or dimple countersinking the parts. DIMPLED SKIN STEP 2: RIVET PROPERLY SEATED Machine countersinking actually removes metal and is done with a stop countersink tool and a drill motor. Machine countersinking can only be used in areas where the skin thickness is sufficient. Caution: Check the machine countersink depth frequently, depths vary depending on part shape, hand pressure and tool sharpness. When countersinking for AD3 rivets,.032 is the minimum allowable skin thickness, and for AD4 rivets,.050 is the minimum thickness. Metal thicker than this is difficult to dimple, so it is common practice to machine countersink for AD4 rivets. Notice in Figure 1, example 1 where the skin thickness is insufficient, the countersunk hole for the rivet head enlarges the original rivet hole and no longer supports the shaft of the rivet. Only a portion of the rivet head is now contacting the skin, so it cannot achieve its design strength which is based on full head contact. In Figure 1, example 2, skin of minimum acceptable thickness is used. Note here that the full rivet head is supported and the original hole is not enlarged. Figure 1, example 3 shows not only the fully supported rivet head, but also contact with the rivet shank. Dimple countersinking, or simply "dimpling", is done with dimple die sets such as those shown on page The dimple dies are installed in a standard hand rivet squeezer and has enough reach for all the holes in the RV-12 kit which require dimpling. While it is acceptable practice to machine countersink metal as thin as 0.032" for an AN426AD3 (3/32") rivet, we recommend dimpling in metal and thinner. There are a couple of reasons. First, although RVs are designed so that a countersunk joint is acceptable, the interlocking nature of a dimpled rivet line is stronger. Second, dimpling leaves a thicker edge for the shop head of the rivet to form against, meaning that the metal deforms less and there is less chance of "working" rivets later EDGE OF MACHINE CTSK HOLE GIVES POOR EDGE SUPPORT FOR RIVET HEAD AND BODY MACHINE CTSK OK WHEN HELD BETWEEN SHEETS - GOOD SUPPORT OF RIVET SHOP HEAD FIGURE 2: DIMPLING STEP 3: RIVET PROPERLY SET MFG HEAD NOT FLAT ON PART, SET RIVET AT A 90 ANGLE TO PART MFG HEAD NOT IN CONTACT WITH PART, HOLD MFG HEAD FLAT ON PART WHILE SETTING RIVET DATE: 02/22/10 TO REPAIR GRIND EXCESS SHAFT FLUSH WITH MFG HEAD RIVT SWELLS BETWEEN PARTS, HOLD PARTS TIGHT AGAINST MFG HEAD REVISION: 1 RV-12 PAGE 05-05

22 VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. PAGE RV-12 REVISION: 0 DATE: 04/02/08

23 ROD-END BEARING REFERENCE CHART PART NO. STUD BEARING HOLE LENGTH THICKNESS MW-3M FEMALE 3/16 13/ BLIND RIVET IDENTIFICATION SEE VAN'S CATALOG FOR COMPLETE DESCRIPTIONS SCALE 1-1 AACQ-4-3 F3414M 1/411 3/16 13/4 7/16 FEMALE F3514M 5/16" 3/16 13/4 7/16 O o FEMALE MM-3 1/8" MALE 3/16 11/4 5/16 CM-4M 1/4" MALE 1/ /8 M3414M 1/4" MALE 3/ /16 O MD3616M 3/8" MALE 3/16 21/4 1/2 AACQ-4-4 AACQ-4-6 AD-41 -ABS AD-41 H AD-42H AD-62-BS AK-42H CCR-246SS-3-2 CR CR CR ^ =1=^ MD3614M 3/8" MALE 3/16 1 3/4 7/16 CR CR MD3616M 3/8" MALE 3/16 21/4 1/2 M GMM-4M-675 3/8" MALE 1/4 2 3/4 EMM LP4-3 CS4-4 MK-319-BS MSP-42 0=^=^ 0=^=^ SD-42-BSLF CM-4S 1/4" MALE 1/4 STUD 1.94 M QIC N BSPQ-5-4

24 5G FOLDED TRAILING EDGES The RV-12 trailing edges come pre-bent. If necessary, finish or adjust the bend by hand. Use your fingers to squeeze along the length of the bend until the skin lies flush against the underlying structure without "pillowing" between ribs. 5H RIVETED TRAILING EDGES (This section is not applicable to the RV-12 Construction) 5J ROLLED LEADING EDGES The RV-12 leading edges come pre-bent. If necessary, adjust the bend by hand until the skin lies flush against the underlying structure. 5K LAP JOINTS When riveting a lap joint, the expansion of the aluminum caused by the setting pressure and the expansion of the rivet causes the overhanging edge of the sheet to bend upwards slightly. This obviously makes the lap joint appear wider than it is, makes painting more difficult, etc. One easy method of minimizing this effect is by pre-bending the last 1/4 inch or so of the skin downward just a few degrees before it is clecoed and riveted. When the rivets are driven, the skin will be flattened and the pre-set in the skin edge will tend to hold it flush. There are several methods of making this slight edge bend. You can use a hand seamer, moving progressively down the sheet, making a very light bend to avoid bend marks between succeeding grips with the seamer. On long thin pieces you can put the sheet on an even-edged table with about 1/4'' overhang and draw a block of hardwood or plastic along the edge with just enough downward pressure to cause the slight bend as it moves. Some tool suppliers sell tools for the purpose, usually two small rollers mounted on an aluminum disc. The edge of the aluminum sheet is placed between the outboard set of bearings and a bending pressure is held as the tool is drawn down the edge. Use these with caution as they may tend to stretch a long edge and make it wavy. Avoid overbending the edge and causing a worse visual effect than before. Experiment with scrap material first. 5L FORMING ALUMINUM PARTS FROM SHEET (This section is not applicable to the RV-12 Construction) 5M VINYL COATING Many of the alclad parts are supplied with a thin (usually blue) vinyl coating to prevent scratching during the manufacturing of the parts. The vinyl may be left on during drilling but should be removed for dimpling, priming and final installation. It is possible to remove strips of vinyl along rivet lines with a soldering iron. Carefully round and smooth the tip of the iron so it won't scratch the aluminum. The adhesive on the vinyl strengthens with age, so if the coating is left on for more than a few weeks, it may become very difficult to remove. Corrosion has been found under the vinyl in some instances. If vinyl covered parts must be stored for long periods, remove the vinyl first. 5N FLUTING VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. 5F BACK RIVETING (This section is not applicable to the RV-12 Construction) The process used to manufacture the ribs may leave them slightly bowed. Before they are installed they must be straightened. This is done by "fluting", that is, putting small creases or "flutes" along the edge of the flange with special pliers. The flutes effectively shorten the flange and pull the rib into line. Fluting diagrams are shown on the plans where required. Otherwise the flutes are simply centered between the pre-punched holes in the flanges. Straighten the ribs/bulkheads with fluting pliers and check for straightness by sighting down the web or by laying the part on a flat table top. Approach the fluting cautiously. Flute just a little at a time until the desired flatness is reached. Make sure that the flanges are perpendicular to the web, so that they will mate correctly with the skins Adjust with hand seamers as necessary. If you have overdone the flutes and curved the rib/bulkhead the other way, you can gently squeeze the flutes with the seamer to straighten the ribs. 5P ALUMINUM TUBING In RVs we use 3003 soft aluminum tubing in the fuel lines inside the cockpit and the brake lines. These lines must be bent with a tube bender to avoid kinking and get a professional looking installation. The flared ends of these lines are 37 and not the 45 that are found on automotive lines. A good quality flaring tool is a necessary tool to do the proper job. Properly installed, aluminum lines will last for many years. Here's a few tips on the "properly" part: Preparing the tube: Soft aluminum tube should be cut with a tubing cutter - not a hacksaw. The resulting end will be square. After making the cut, polish the end of the tube with fine crocus cloth, emery paper, or a Scotchbrite wheel. Mounting it in the flaring tool: First, put the AN-818 nut and AN-819 collar on the tube and push them out of the way. There's a little tongue on the rotary flaring tool that serves a stop. Make sure you've selected the right diameter (RV-12 uses 3/8 tubing for fuel lines, 1/4" tubing for brake lines), insert the tube from the far side of the tool until it hits the stop, then tighten the clamp. Making the flare: Swing the stop out of the way. Put a drop of light oil on the cone of the flaring tool. Spin the cone down into the tube and watch it make the flare. Inspect the flare: Take a good look at the stretched aluminum around the circumference of the flare. You will probably see some tiny stretch marks, but there should be no cracks or splits. Install the tube on the flare fitting: Use light oil or Fuelube to lubricate the faces of the flare and fitting prior to assembly. Mate the flared end of the tube with the conical end of the AN fitting. Slide the AN-819 collar down the tube until it rests on the back of the flare. It must be square to the fitting. Any slight angle will make it difficult to start the nut, and if you do get it started, runs the risk of splitting the aluminum flare. Slide the AN818 nut over the far end of the tube and engage the threads on the AN fitting. Tighten to the specified torque. You should have a Standard Aircraft Handbook with the torque tables for these things. (assuming aluminum fittings, for 1/4" tubing it's inch-pounds, for 3/8" tubing it's inch-pounds.) Later, you can leak test the system. 5Q STEEL Most of the steel used in RVs is all 4130 grade, mostly in the form of thin plate and thin wall seamless tubing is a high strength, high carbon steel used extensively in the aircraft industry because of its high strength and relatively good workability. Most steel parts supplied in RV kits are powder coated at the factory, meaning that there is little for the builder to do except install it. On a few parts, where the sequence of welding or forming operations makes powder coating at the factory impractical, the builder may paint the part. The best method of cleaning is bead-blasting, but some work with a stiff brush and solvent will do the job. There are some conventions when referring to parts of parts. Terms like "flange" and "web" have specific connotations and using them correctly makes the job of Van's Builders Support personnel much easier. An example is shown on Figure 1. PAGE RV-12 REVISION: 1 DATE: 02/22/10 FLANGE WEB SPAR RIB FIGURE 1: BASIC TERMINOLOGY Steel parts should be primed and painted immediately after cleaning to prevent rust. 5R INSTALLING NUTPLATES Nutplates are almost always installed with flush rivets. When the structure is too thin to machine countersink, dimple the structure and dimple the nut plate. In order to dimple the nutplate you may need to modify the dimple die so it will clear the threaded portion of the nutplate. Simply grind away that portion of one side of the die that is in the way. If you do this carefully the die will still give good service in dimpling other parts. Of course you only have to modify the female half of the die.

25 5S FUEL TANK SEALANT VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. The recommended sealant, MC-236-B2, (often called ProSeal) is available through VAN'S ACCESSORIES CATALOG. Although the sealant used to seal the tanks is not particularly noxious, only use it and the solvents used in tank construction with adequate ventilation. Use a respirator, gloves (which also keep oil from your skin off the surfaces to be sealed) and protective cream when sealing the tanks. Why expose your skin and lungs if you can prevent it? Working with tank sealant can be a messy proposition but it doesn't have to be. By taking care and thinking things through it can be painless. Handy things to have on hand: disposable surgical gloves, a box of Popsicle sticks, a supply of clean rags, paper towels, butcher paper (not newspaper) to cover the bench surface. Roughen all mating surfaces using a scotchbrite pad. Don't be bashful; score the aluminum well, so the sealing compound will have more surface to grip. Then thoroughly clean all the parts (including rivets) with naphtha or MEK or an etching acid like Alum Prep or Twin Etch. After cleaning, do not pollute the areas to be sealed. Don't even touch them. The oils from your skin will affect the bond of the sealant. The tank sealant should be mixed as accurately as possible. This can be done by using a homemade balance scale, a hand loaders scale or postal scale. Follow the instructions supplied with the sealant. When mixing sealant, do not mix too much at one time. A batch the size of four or five golf balls is usually enough for one work session. The sealant provides 45 to 90 minutes of working time (less in warmer temperatures). To use the sealant as soon a possible, have all the work well planned and tools all laid out. Have a container of acetone, MEK, or lacquer thinner nearby for the frequent tool cleanings necessary during riveting. You can peel away overflow on areas you want to keep clean by strategically applying plastic tape before spreading the sealant. Following are two methods for making applying sealant easier. Use plastic freezer bags. A small amount of sealant can be put in one, the corner of the bag cut off, and the bag squeezed like a cake decorator's pastry bag to apply sealant to parts. Purchase some plastic disposable syringes from a farm supply store. A 35cc Monoject syringe will cost very little. Drill the end out a little larger for better flow of the thick sealant. After using a Popsicle stick to fill the syringe and squeezing out the air, you now have a miniature caulking gun. Mixed, unused sealant may be kept in the freezer up to 4 days. 5T FIBERGLASS Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP), or "Fiberglass" as it is more commonly known, is used in numerous places in RVs for non-structural parts. On RV-12 these include the cowl, spinner, and other fairings. The typical part consists of several thicknesses of bi-directional fiberglass cloth and resin. Fiberglass parts supplied with RVs come in two types, polyester and epoxy. The polyester parts can easily be identified by their white gel-coat surface. The epoxy parts are translucent green. Polyester resin is not compatible with epoxy and can only be used on polyester parts. However epoxy resin is OK to use on either epoxy or polyester parts. Many builders have had good results with the West Systems epoxy resin. Molded fiberglass can be cut, filed, and drilled with any tools used for metal working. Though it is softer than steel or aluminum, glass fiber is very abrasive and it will dull tools quickly. Use sanding blocks and sandpaper rather than files. Like welding, fiberglass molding is a specialty skill. Fiberglass parts lend themselves more to production methods than do most other parts. Thus, VAN'S AIRCRAFT offers most fiberglass parts pre-molded. To make the parts that are not supplied in the kit any fiberglass cloth of medium weight will do. Get some flocked cotton fiber and micro balloons to mix with the resin for building up and filling. Using Peel Ply will result in a very smooth finish that is also ready for glass to glass bonding without sanding. Most supplies can be obtained from a local marine/boat store or from one of the mail order supply houses like Aircraft Spruce. PREPPING THE COWLING FOR PAINT Van's recommends use of a Poly Fiber product called Smooth Prime. We follow the manufacturers instructions EXCEPT that we apply the first coat straight-out-of-the-can and un-reduced, using a bondo squeegee rather than roller or spray gun. Using a squeegee to apply the first coat forces the filler into the surface voids. 5U PLEXIGLASS, ACRYLIC CANOPY, AND LEXAN WINDOW HINTS Definitions Plexiglas or Poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA) is a transparent thermoplastic often used as a light or shatter-resistant alternative to glass. This material is specifically used for canopies and windows contained in RV Finish Kits. Lexan or polycarbonate resin thermoplastic is the brand name for polycarbonate sheet and resin in a wide range of grades. This material is used specifically for the RV-12 aft window. The Plexiglas canopy bubble and Lexan window are a couple of the most expensive and fragile components in the kit. Mis-handling, scratching, and/or cracking them is one of the most disappointing and gumption-robbing experiences a homebuilder can have. Below are a few general Do's and Don'ts. Safety Most of us understand the importance of Shop Safety. Eye, ear, and respiratory protection are essential when fabricating Plexiglas and Lexan. Die grinders will cut fingers without a second thought, turn at very high rpm, and can throw chips and dust at un-dodgable velocities. Two hands are recommended to guide this tool. Drill bits can also break and become flying hazards so eye protection is a must. Remember to support your work well and use gloves when it makes sense. Handling The canopy is the most vulnerable to cracks when it is moved or flexed when there are un-deburred or finished edges or holes. Be especially cautious when the canopy is in this state. Plexiglas and Lexan are dramatically less brittle when warm. Do not try to work on these materials in a cold shop. Cutting or drilling the acrylic transparencies in temperatures under 60º F is asking for trouble. Heat the shop to 75-80º -- it may be uncomfortable to you, but your canopy loves it. Many builders will put a small space heater under the canopy when trimming, just as insurance. Take care not to overheat the canopy. Too hot is when any part of the canopy is hotter than "warm to the touch". More than one builder has melted a canopy in an attempt to make sure it is "warm enough". Localized heat is as bad as no heat and can deform the canopy. Be cautious when fitting your canopy over small protrusions and/or transitions in canopy frame tubing diameters. You might elect to shim the tubing surfaces so that the acrylic isn't pinched or bridged over a given area. Cutting Do NOT try to use a saw of any kind. You might get away with it once or twice, but eventually you will crack the bubble. Cutting discs, supplied with the kit, do an excellent job when used in a high-speed die grinder. They will also cut fingers without a second thought, so support your work well and use two hands to guide the grinder. Die grinders turn at very high rpm and can throw chips and dust at un-dodgable velocities. Eye, ear, and respiratory protection is essential! If a die grinder is not available an electric drill will work but you will have to make several passes going a little deeper each time until you break through. Practice on the flanges of the canopy for both the cutting and drilling operations. Drilling Special Plexiglas/Lexan drills are available from tool suppliers. Diamond Dust drills and Unibits are a couple of such recommended tools. Clamping a piece of wood to the acrylic material and drilling through into the wood can eliminate chipping on the backside of drilled holes. Start drilling the warmed acrylic with slow speeds and light pressure. Increase speeds and pressures as you progress. As the drill bit starts to go through the canopy, reduce the speed and pressure so that the drill bit penetrates through slowly. It is important to deburr both sides of the holes lightly with a machine countersink. No hole should have a sharp corner. Fit the cowling to the fuselage, with all the hinges, retaining screw holes, and nut plates installed. DATE: 12/14/10 REVISION: 2 RV-12 PAGE 05-09

26 VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. 5V NUT AND BOLT TORQUES Practice drilling holes in scrap pieces until you are familiar and confident with the process. It is important to remember that heat from the machining and drilling processes may change the acrylic characteristics some to allow some of the approved products to affect the material. This is an important reason to cut slowly and avoid overheating the acrylic material. Use of a step-drill (Unibit) or reamer is recommended for hole enlargement. CAUTION: Do not use a regular twist drill as they have tips that tend to fracture the acrylic. Using a regular twist or plexi drill to enlarge a pre-drilled hole is not recommended and will almost guarantee to crack a canopy. Fiberglass Bonding, Cracks, Etc. Be certain to use ONLY epoxy resins. Do not use the more common polyester or vinyl ester resins. They are not compatible with Plexiglas and cause crazing that will ruin the canopy. We have had excellent luck with West Systems Epoxy products, available from boat yards and mail order houses. Cracks Seriously avoid jeopardizing or cracking the canopy at all costs. If the worst does occur and you develop a crack, they may sometimes be fixed using a solvent adhesive such as Plasti-Fix or Weld-On 3. Stop-drilling the crack is typically required to keep it from running. CAUTION: Do not use Polyester resin of any type, as it will cause crazing. Cleaning And Use Of Liquids For general cleaning use dishwashing liquid and water followed by a clear water rinse. To prevent water spots, blow dry with compressed air or wipe dry with soft cotton flannel. Plexus, Sprayaway #848 Industrial Plastic Cleaner, or All Clear can also be used for day to day cleaning. Grease, oil, tape residue, etc. may best be removed with mineral spirits, refined kerosene, white gasoline, naphtha, or isopropyl alcohol. Wash approved solvents off of canopy with dishwashing liquid and water. It is best to avoid using products that are not specifically formulated for acrylics on your canopy such as Rain-X or furniture polish. CAUTION: Do not use Loctite, aromatic solvents, acetone, benzene, ethyl acetate, carbon tetrachloride, lighter fluid, lacquer thinners, gasoline, toluene, window sprays, concentrated alcohols, keytones, scouring compounds, or ammonia products on or around acrylic or Lexan canopy materials. CAUTION: Do not allow electrical tape or auto fuel to come into contact with Lexan as it will also cause crazing. This is a particular issue to beware of when refueling the RV-12. Scratch Removal Small scratches can be buffed out with Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #17. For deep scratch removal, use Scratch Off, Micro Mesh, or 3M Window Repair kits. Avoid removing scratches in critical areas where clear visibility is important, as the process will usually result in some degree of optical distortion. Canopy Protection and Ventilation If the aircraft is tied down outdoors and subject to weather elements for any length of time, then the use of an aircraft canopy cover is highly recommended. The cover will protect canopies and windows from abrasive dust, dirt, and sand kicked up by wind or prop wash. Before purchasing, verify that the canopy cover is NOT waterproof as the trapped moisture and heat from the sun can be deleterious. Acrylic subjected to this treatment over a period of time may turn slightly milky and eventually crazes. The importance of correct torque application cannot be overemphasized. Undertorque can result in unnecessary wear of nuts and bolts, as well as the parts they secure. Overtorque can cause failure of a bolt or nut from over - stressing the threaded areas. Uneven or additional loads that are applied to the assembly may result in wear or premature failure. The following are a few simple, but important procedures, that should be followed to ensure that correct torque is applied. Be sure that the torque applied is for the size of the bolt shank not the wrench size. Use a calibrated torque wrench. Be sure the bolt and nut threads are clean and dry. Apply a smooth even pull when applying torque pressure. Whenever possible torque the nut, not the bolt. When applying torque to a bolt be sure to have a washer under the bolt head and lubricate the bolt shank. The chart below is for most of the fasteners used on RV's. Note that on the smaller bolts the torque is quite low and is in inch pounds. Do not try and use a foot pound torque wrench on these bolts. Get one calibrated in inch pounds. The propeller manufacturer and the engine manufacturer have specific torque requirements for their equipment. Consult the appropriate manual for that information. AN Bolt Size AN3 AN4 AN5 AN6 AN7 AN8 AN9 AN10 Bolt Size- Threads Per Inch # /4-28 5/ /8-24 7/ /2-20 9/ /8-18 Standard Nuts AN310, AN315, AN365 INCH POUNDS FOOT POUNDS Keep your canopy ventilated or covered when your aircraft is parked in the hot sun. Cabin temperatures can easily reach degrees F even on a mild day. The acrylic can generally take these temperature conditions multiple times without any apparent adverse effect. It is the cumulative affect that will cause shortened service life of your canopy. The use of a Van's Aircraft Canopy Cover will significantly reduce the internal temperatures inside your aircraft to just a few degrees above outside ambient temperatures. Additionally it will also protect your expensive avionics from heat and your upholstery/seat belt harnesses from harmful UV rays. In winter conditions, ensure that the cabin and canopy is warmed adequately prior to flight if possible. A heat lamp or small, low output ceramic space heater can raise the cabin temperature to warm the acrylic, keeping it free from ice or snow. It will also be less prone to cracking. PAGE RV-12 REVISION: 2 DATE: 12/14/10

27 5W ELECTRICAL WIRING NOTES ELECTRICITY There are three primary units of measure or terms we must know to successfully wire our plane: voltage, current and power. The battery we will be dealing with is known as a 12V battery. Batteries in good charge will have a terminal voltage between 12 and 13 volts. When a battery is installed in an airframe and the alternator or generator is operating, the system voltage will be 13.5 to 14.5 volts. The second term is current which is measured in units of amps (A). Current is a value representing the flow of electrons through a wire. An analogy would be a measurement of the flow of fuel to the engine in gallons/hour. The amount of current (amps) flowing in a circuit will determine the size of the circuit breaker (or fuse), the type of switch to use and the size of wire to use. The last term we must understand is Watt (W), which is a measure of power being consumed by a circuit. Items such as lights are typically rated in watts. WIRING Stranded wire is preferred over a solid conductor. Solid conductor wire (a single strand of wire) is more susceptible to breakage from the normal vibrations of an aircraft. Automotive type wire can be used in most applications. The only exception would be where shielded wire is desired. Wire should be supported such that it does not sag or swing freely. When passing through a bulkhead, use a grommet or support the wire in the center of the hole with clamps to prevent chaffing which could result in an in-flight electrical short. Bundling wires together is acceptable, except when a noisy wire is included with a sensitive circuit. an example would be including the transponder antenna lead or a strobe power lead in the same bundle with the mike wire or headset leads. The impulses created by either the transponder or the strobe could be picked up by the audio wiring. Repairing D-Sub Pins: If the proper crimping tool is unavailable, machined d-sub pins and sockets may be soldered on. If unfamiliar with soldering it may be prudent to practice this procedure on a sample wire before repairing the flight article wire. Step 1: Strip wire back per the dimension in Figure 2. Step 2: Tin the end of the stripped wire by heating up the wire as it exits the insulation while holding solder against the tip of the wire. When the solder wicks into the strands of the stripped wire remove the heat and solder. It is very important to not let the solder wick beyond the end of the exposed wire under the insulation. This will make the wire brittle, fatigue and break where it exits the back of the pin. Step 3: Slide the tinned portion of the wire fully into the pin or socket. Use a soldering iron to heat the barrel of the pin or socket while inserting solder wire into the witness hole (This will require a solder wire of a small diameter). Melt solder into the witness hole, then remove the heat and solder. Be careful not to get excess solder on the barrel of the pin or socket Step 4: Check that the wire is properly soldered to the pin by gently pulling on the pin or socket and the wire. VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. 5/32 WIRE INSULATION STRIPPED WIRE BARREL WITNESS HOLE WARNING: Antennas must be hooked up before turning on the transponder or radio. Refer to the transponder, radio, and antenna manual/installation instructions for more information. Wire Colors: Wire colors are called out in the building plans as needed. Wire call outs are followed by their color in brackets (WIRE COLOR/STRIPE COLOR). Colors are abbreviated as follows: BLK = BLACK, BLU = BLU, BRN = BROWN, GRN = GREEN, GRY = GRAY, ORN = ORANGE, PRP = PURPLE OR VIOLET, RED = RED, WHT = WHITE, YEL = YELLOW. Harnesses are supplied with multi-colored wire or white wire with a label. ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS NOTE: Terminals should be crimped, but not necessarily soldered. If a termination is soldered, the wire should be supported near the solder joint to ensure there is no movement of the wire at the solder joint. The point where the wire goes into the solder joint is subject to breakage if the wire is allowed to move freely (i.e. normal vibrations and flexing). PLUG-IN SIDE PIN INSERTION SIDE JACK- SCREW HOLE TOP HALF D-SUB STRAIN RELIEF D-SUB SIDE LATCH CLAMSHELL STYLE BACKSHELL POSTS SNAP TO CLOSE BACKSHELL D-SUB CONNECTORS Inserting D-Sub Pins: STRAIN RELIEF In the manual, a view will be given to inform the builder where to insert d-sub pins. This view will always be from the pin insertion side of the d-sub connector! See Figure 1. PIN 1 FEMALE D-SUB 15 PIN D-SUB CONNECTOR PIN 1 MALE D-SUB SHOULDER SADDLE WASHER JACK SCREW, 2 PLACES WIRE BUNDLE RECESS BOTTOM HALF JACK SCREW, 2 PLACES WIRE BUNDLE LOWER STRAIN RELIEF PIN INSERTION SIDE TWO PIECE BACKSHELL CLAMSHELL BACKSHELL FIGURE 1: INSERTING D-SUB PINS DATE: 07/12/11 REVISION: 5 RV-12 PAGE 05-11

28 VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. 5W (CONTINUED) ELECTRICAL WIRING NOTES Backshell Assembly: There are a number of connections in the RV-12 which make use of d-sub assemblies sheathed with a backshell. There are a variety of backshell styles, two of which are discussed here and illustrated on Page 05-11, Figure 3. For both styles of backshell, ensure that the wires are properly installed and heat shrink tubing is installed to to secure the wire bundle. The two piece backshell contains two metal strain reliefs. These are secured around the wire bundle with two screws. One screw is installed from the top, and one from the bottom as shown on Page 05-11, Figure 3. Position the strain reliefs so that they will fit the recess in the backshell halves. Install the d-sub assembly in the bottom half of the backshell. Loosely attach the top and bottom halves of the backshell with the hardware as shown on Page 05-11, Figure 3. Note that one screw is installed from above, and one is installed from below. Pry the backshell halves apart to insert the jack screws through the aft side of the assembled backshell halves. The jack screw shoulder will be captured by the top and bottom backshell halves and extend through the corresponding hole in the d-sub assembly. With the jack screws and saddle washers captured, tighten the top and bottom screws to complete the assembly. See Page 05, Figure 3. The clamshell style backshell has a plastic strain relief that nests in the bottom half of the clamshell and the wire bundle is secured with a metal strain relief on the top as shown on Page 05-11, Figure 3. Jack screws snap into molded receptacles in the bottom half of the clamshell and extend through the holes in the d-sub assembly. To complete assembly the top half of the clamshell is closed and snapped into place with the molded posts and integrated side latch. Shielded Wires: CLOSED BARREL CONNECTORS Closed Barrel Terminals include Ring Terminals, Spade Terminals, and Butt Splices as shown in Figure 2. While the exposed ends may be of a different configuration, the common feature of a closed barrel terminal is a precision-formed metal wire barrel and a copper sleeve encased in insulating material made of nylon, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyvinyl flouride (PVF ²). The insulation is color coded to correspond with a specific wire size or wire size range. These terminals are crimped in two places: first where the wire is stripped and second where the wire insulation fits inside the terminal. The first crimp retains the wire and provides a good electrical connection between the wire conductors and the terminal. The second crimp supports the end of the insulation thus protecting the wire conductors at the end of the insulation where they would otherwise be likely to break. Strip the wire according to the table on Page and use the crimp tool called-out in the table on Page Install closed barrel terminals as shown in Figure 3. WIRE BARREL RING TERMINAL INSULATION COPPER SLEEVE SPADE TERMINAL SPADE TERMINAL FIGURE 2: TYPES OF CLOSED BARREL TERMINALS BUTT SPLICE Some wires included in the kit are shielded with braided wire surrounding the main conductor wire(s). Unless otherwise stated all shields are connected to ground at the d-sub connector that the wire is coming from. The shield on the device end of the wire should not be connected to ground. When stripping the inner conductor wire(s) remove and discard the shield as shown in Figure 1. Cover the exposed shield with heat shrink. This will ensure that when the conductor wire is crimped to a connector there will be no possible electrical connection between the connector and the shield or between the shield and the fuselage structure. CONDUCTOR WIRE TOO LOOSE CRIMP AT WIRE END OF TERMINAL CORRECT CRIMP AT WIRE END OF TERMINAL TERMINAL INSULATION WIRE INSULATION METAL SLEEVE SMALL AMOUNT OF SPACE BETWEEN WIRE CONDUCTORS AND WIRE BARREL 1 MIN. BRAIDED SHIELD HEAT SHRINK CONDUCTOR WIRE INSULATION LENGTH AS REQ'D TOO TIGHT CRIMP AT WIRE END OF TERMINAL WIRE FLUSH TO END OF WIRE BARREL OR BOTTOMED ON STOP INSIDE CENTER OF SPLICE OVERSTRESS MARKS NOT APPARENT ON INSULATION WIRE INSULATION INSIDE METAL SLEEVE BUT NOT INSIDE WIRE BARREL NO REAR BELLMOUTH WIRE CONDUCTORS VISIBLE WITHIN THIS AREA FRONT BELLMOUTH EVIDENT NO FLASH IN THIS AREA OUTSIDE INSULATION FIGURE 3: CRIMPING OF CLOSED BARREL TERMINALS PAGE RV-12 REVISION: 4 DATE: 07/12/11

29 5W (CONTINUED) ELECTRICAL WIRING NOTES OPEN BARREL CONNECTORS The following text has been reproduced from "The AeroElectric Connection" website. Go to: Special thanks to Bob Nuckolls for allowing us to reproduce this information. VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. Pins supplied in strips are intended for application by automatic machine. The pins come in reels of perhaps 10,000 and feed into the side of an application machine like a chain of cartridges into a machine gun. For our use, we need to cut individual pins apart similar to what you see here. Note that part of the material that joins adjacent pins is left in place. It's too long in this view and will be snipped off again later. Closeup of the business end of our Open Barrel Terminal Crimp Tool. Note that pockets "C", "D" and "E" have "butt-cheeks" formed into the upper surface. These pockets cause the end of wire grip wings to curl over and dive into the approximate center of the wire strands. Pockets "A" and "B" have a smooth, circular shape used to shape the terminal's insulation-grips into a "bear hug"... Here's a typical nylon connector housing and a strip of open barrel pins... This particular connector is a Waldom/Molex product purchased in a blisterpak from Radio Shack. The techniques described here are typical for all connectors of this genre... If you wish to mount the connector in a hole, the wings visible at the rear of the connector housing can be folded flat against the side of the connector. Barbs molded into the wings will slip through the appropriate sized rectangular hole and hold the housing captive in the hole. Check the original manufacturer's data for recommended hole dimensions. If left in as-supplied shape, the wire-grip and insulation-grip wings tend to rotate the pin in the tool's dies as they close. This can result in a poorly shaped crimp or even broken wings. Use a pair of pliers to bend the wings into a "U" shape with sides parallel or even tilted inward toward each other slightly. Strip the wire about 3/32". Note that I've shortened the insulation grip wings on this pin. These connectors are designed for automotive applications where wiring insulation is MUCH larger in diameter than for the same AWG size in aircraft wire. Left full length as supplied, it's difficult if not impossible to get a proper "bear hug" on the wire's insulation. Now comes the fun part. Grip the pin loosely in pocket "D" with the ends of the wire grip wings pointing toward the pocket's "butt cheeks". Insert the stripped end of the wire so that exposed strands are inside the crimp area. Close the tool while being watchful of dreaded "pin-spin". If things go as they should, ends of wire grip wings will do a 180 degree turn and dive back into the center of the strands from both sides. You'll want to squeeze the tool with as much force as you can with one hand. When you've got a nice LOOKING crimp, put a 5-8 pound pull on the wire to make sure it doesn't pull out easily from under the wire grip. If it does, you need to squeeze harder next time. Use tool pocket "A" to form the insulation-grip wings down onto the wire's insulation. You'll have to rotate the pin in the tool so that ends of the wings are pushed into the circular bottom of the pocket. As the ends of insulation-grip wings collide in the bottom of the pocket - don't compress the tool any further. Take the pin out and use the end pincers of the tool to deflect the end of one insulation grip down against the insulation. Return the pin to pocket "A" and rotate the pin in the pocket as you form the insulation-grip wings down smoothly around the wire. The goal here is very different from the electrical connection. The conductor strands need to be held very tightly while the insulation gets a only snug "bear-hug" as shown here. If you look at similar pins installed on PVC insulated automotive wire, the fabricator may have turned the insulation-grip wings into the insulation not unlike the wire-grip. I DO NOT RECOMMEND this on the aircraft wire - the insulation is too thin. For airplanes we want a simple, snug support of the wire behind the wire-grip without penetrating the insulation. Note also in this view how short the stop tabs are. Trim with caution as you learn how to deal with each style and size of pin. Cut it off too short and the pin will not be properly retained when you install it. If it's too long, it will simply resist insertion into the back of the connector housing. DATE: 07/12/11 REVISION: 1 RV-12 PAGE 05-13

30 VAN'S AIRCRAFT, INC. 5W (CONTINUED) ELECTRICAL WIRING NOTES OPEN BARREL TERMINALS (continued) Now you can install the pin into the connector's housing. In this view, you can see the barbs that snap out to keep the pin from being pulled backwards through the hole. The stop tabs will bottom out in the hole from behind to keep the pin from coming on through. The technique I've just described is typical of the AMP Mate-n-Lock and the larger (.093" pins) sized Waldom/Molex connectors. The smaller Waldom/Molex connectors (.063") pins use pockets "E" for wire grip and "B" for insulation grip. Wires of up to 14AWG and carrying up to 10 Amps may be routed through this style of connector. The wire I illustrated here is 20AWG. Use pocket "C" to crimp 16 and 14AWG wire. 22AWG wire is somewhat dicey in.093" pins. Waldom/Molex connectors also come in a smaller size having a nominal pin diameter of.063". Use pockets "E" and "B" to install the smaller pins like D-subminiature pins found on many instruments and avionics products. Some connectors may be supplied with loose pins. In this case, you will not have to trim the stop tabs - they will be the proper length as supplied. You may still have to shorten either wire grip or insulation grip wings to work well with your wire of choice. It's always a good idea to experiment with extra pins on scraps of wire to see what it takes to achieve the smooth and tight crimp/grip shown in Figure 5. Each manufacturer of these connectors offers an extraction tool that will let you remove a pin without damage for re-use in the same or a different location on the connector. Female pins are installed the same way. TERMINAL INSTALLATION TABLE PART WIRE STRIP RECOMMENDED NUMBER NOMENCLATURE LENGTH CRIMPING TOOL TOOL USE NOTES ES MOLEX PIN BCT-1 ES MOLEX SOCKET BCT-1 ES MOLEX PIN BCT-1 ES MOLEX SOCKET BCT-1 ES MOLEX PIN BCT-1 ES MOLEX SOCKET BCT-1 ES MOLEX MICRO-FIT SOCKET BCT-1 FOR 26 AWG WIRE DOUBLE STRIP LENGTH & FOLD OVER ES MOLEX MICRO-FIT PIN BCT-1 FOR 26 AWG WIRE DOUBLE STRIP LENGTH & FOLD OVER ES FLOATING CONNECTOR PIN.150 BCT-1 ES FLOATING CONNECTOR PIN.150 BCT-1 ES RING TERMINAL, # TH-450 ES RING TERMINAL, 1/ TH-450 ES BUTT SPLICE TH-450 ES BUTT SPLICE TH-450 ES RING TERMINAL, # TH-450 ES RING TERMINAL, 1/ TH-450 ES RING TERMINAL, # TH-450 ES RING TERMINAL, 1/ TH-450 ES RING TERMINAL, # TH-450 ES RING TERMINAL, # TH-450 ES RING TERMINAL, 5/ TH-450 ES RING TERMINAL, 1/ TH-450 ES RING TERMINAL, # TH-450 ES RING TERMINAL, # TH-450 ES SPADE TERMINAL TH-450 ES SPADE TERMINAL TH-450 ES SPADE TERMINAL TH-450 ES DV M SPADE TERMINAL TH-450 PAGE RV-12 REVISION: 1 DATE: 07/12/11