PYRTE. Building The Front Axle, Fork and Steering

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1 PYRTE Building The Front Axle, Fork and Steering The front axle on this traction engine is a very simple affair, in that it is a rectangular steel rod, sat on edge, with a pivot in the centre, which is mounted underneath the perch bracket by a fork arrangement. Materials needed: 1 10 inches of ½ inch x ⅞ inch mild steel flat (you may have to buy 1 inch to achieve the ⅞ size) the main axle. 4 3/4 inch dia x ¹/₁₆ wide with a ⅜ hole. 1 length of ½ inch x ½ inch dia phosphor bronze rod the pivot bearing. 1 length of 1 inch x 1 inch dia steel rod the steering rod end. 1 length of ½ inch x ½ inch dia steel rod the securing sleeve. 1 length of 3 inches x 1¼ dia steel rod the steering fork. 1 length of 1¾ inches x ½ dia steel rod the front axle pivot pin. 3 x ¹/₁₆ split pins. Obviously, many of these items can be located from your scrap-bin so this can make this particular part a very inexpensive item to produce. The time scale should be easily within one hour, providing everything is to hand. You will need your usual hand tools here, plus a little usage of a lathe and drilling machine. Basically, we start off making the axle with a rectangular steel rod, 10 inches long by ⅞ high x ½ inch wide. Square and mark and centre drill each end at ³ ₁₆ from the top and on the centre line of the longer dimension at the end. A pivot point now needs marking at 5 inches along and at ⁷/₁₆ inch from the top, with the tapered section achieved by marking the axle at ⅜ from the top and 1 inch in from the ends and scribing the lines towards where they meet up with the lower edge below the pivot point, and requires the use of a saw and file to remove the bottom surplus after all the marking out is done.

2 The pivot point now needs a hole bored through at ½ inch to accommodate the phosphor bronze bearing you are about to produce. The bearing is very simple in that it is a ½ inch phosphor bronze rod, bored out at ⅜ and is ½ inch long to match the width of the axle and is simply a tight push fit inside the axle. Turn the wheel centres (journals) down to ⅜ diameter in your 4 jaw (to a good fit for the wheel hub centres, without too much play the wheels must rotate easily, but not rattle loosely on the axle) for a length of 1 inch. The washer thickness can be adjusted to suit the securing pin hole bored in the end of the axle and the further washer sitting between the pin and the wheel hub, as the width between the front wheels is not a critical dimension. The washers can be made from a sheet of steel or similar (even commercial ones) to hand, being ¾ inch diameter by ¹/₁₆ wide (but this width can be adjusted to suit the hole position for the locking pins). There now needs to be 2 holes bored through the journals, one at each end, being ¹/₁₆ dia at ³/₃₂ from the ends, preferably from top to bottom. These are for ¹/₁₆ locking pins to go through the axle to hold the wheels in place. The front wheel hub caps will be covering these pins and we shall be dealing with these caps at around completion time. Remove the surplus metal from below the slanted bottom lines of the axle to form the shape of your axle and round the corners off. Now the axle is complete, other than a hole boring and tapping for the attachment of its steering connection, and for this you need to drill a hole at ⁷/₃₂ for a depth of ⅜ inch and tap it at ¼ inch x 40, set at 2 inches out from the pivot point on the left hand side (although this is not a factor yet unless you have already chosen a front and rear side of your axle) and sitting centrally underneath the axle. The steering rod end attaches to this joint which is produced from a small section of ½ inch diameter steel rod. If you turn one end of this rod down to ¼ inch diameter and run a thread on it at ¼ x 40 for a depth of ⅜ to match the thread in your axle. The length needs cutting off at ⅝ inches a er the thread and this part needs the front and rear face filing down to produce a flattened disc of ¼ inch wide. On one of these flattened faces, drill a hole at ⁷/₃₂ inch (this gives a bit of leeway for the ³/₁₆ steering rod) in the middle if anything, try to keep it a little below the middle for the height as you will need to add nuts to the steering rod and these will need to be locked tight against the faces of this steering rod end too close to the axle itself and this becomes a problem). Screw the steering rod end into your axle, not tight, as the screw thread needs to rotate a little as the axle rotates.

3 The next thing on our agenda is the steering fork, but before you go onto this you need to assemble the wheels on the front axle (no need to pin everything together just yet) I simply used some 1 inch nails as the securing pins temporarily as these were about the right diameter for the holes, as well as popping the ¾ inch axle through the rear axle bushes attached to the tender and assembling the rear wheels on this rod. This is so that the rear end of your traction engine is sitting on the rear wheels at its correct height, so that with the boiler barrel sitting horizontal, a measurement can be taken from the bottom of the bush in the perch bracket to the centre of the pivot point on the axle to provide the height of your steering fork. The steering fork now needs to be made to the correct length to suit your build so far. This is the only possible variation you may have so far if you have not been able to acquire the right sized materials as per the description and drawings (mainly meaning the rear wheel size). My dimension was 1¼ inches, and for this reason I shall explain the process I went through. A bearing surface (the waist of the fork unit) sits directly underneath the bush (phosphor bronze bearing) in the perch bracket, being the same diameter as that bush, (1¼ inches) and has a ⅜ diameter stub stick upwards through that bush for a further 1¼ inches. It also has two large packing washers and a sleeve sitting outside the stub with a 4 ba bolt securing it in place at the top inside the perch bracket. At the base of this fork unit is a slot wide enough to allow the axle to sit in position with a pin going through at right angles to the axle, allowing the axle to deviate from the horizontal, that way allowing wheel movement in all directions. Starting with the main body, insert a 3 inch length of 1¼ inch diameter steel rod in your 3 jaw chuck with a little more than 1½ inches sticking out. Square the end and skim the first 1½ inches until a complete cut is taken along this length. Turn the metal about face and after facing the end, turn the diameter down to ⅜ for a length of 1¼. This is the upper end of the steering fork where it sits under the perch bracket. Moving on to the lower end, you now need a line marking down one side, with a further one at 90 to it (use the paper method, just like you did with the boiler barrel.

4 One of these lines is for the pivot hole (at the end where the bottom bolt is shown in this early picture below) and the other is the centre line of the slot where the axle will sit. The easiest option here is to centre punch a point along one of those lines at ⅜ up from the bottom to provide a central point for the drill. If you now drill through the fork for the pivot hole (at ⅜ inch), that now gives you a front and rear point of the pivot. Now using the other line you need to remove a width of ½ inch (plus a little extra to allow free movement of the axle in the slot) for a height of 1 inch from the base, that way the axle will sit at right angles to the pivot and have clearance to rock up and down (as it goes over uneven ground). The shape of the bottom end can be machined (if you have the facilities) or worked with a file to produce the bottom stub at ¾ inches across. For the top end of the fork, you now need to produce a sleeve to sit at the top to secure the fork in place against the bush. This is very simply a ½ inch steel rod at ½ an inch long, bored out to ⅜, drilled at half its height with a 3.5mm drill on one side only for now, so that it slips over the top of the stub. You need to insert the fork stub upwards into the phosphor bronze bush on the perch bracket and place one or two packing washers and then the sleeve so that you can drill through the fork stub and the other side of the sleeve, using the hole as a guide for height and bolt it up with a ¾ inch long 4ba nut and bolt. You may find a slightly thicker washer is needed to take up some of the slack in the stub. With the top end secured, simply take a ½ inch phosphor bronze rod and bore it out at ⅜ and ½ inch long to match the width of the axle and insert it in the main pivot hole in the axle. You need to produce a ⅜ pivot pin (with a slightly larger head ½ inch), with a tail sticking out by ¼ inch and drilled to allow a ¹/₁₆ th securing split pin to keep it in place, but I must admit mine still has the original ⅜ nut and bolt in place that was supposed to be a temporary measure, and yes, I like to spray my bench as well. And that, my friend, with the front wheels installed, is the front axle ready for action apart from the steering. Taking shape? Easy, wasn t it? Now we move on to the Steering

5 The steering is a little unconventional with this model as the intention was to omit the need for fancy bevel gears or worm and wheel concoctions and to basically make the construction as simple as possible. What came about initially was a very crude rod operated system, but this proved to be not rigid enough and the traction engine simply followed any ruts in the ground it was on. So here is the second system, a modified version, still in use today, although again made a little stronger after a slight mishap demonstrating it was needed, (you can read it here) employing some of the already proven methods, along with a few easy adaptations. You, as the driver, have a conventional steering wheel to turn as a control for direction. This is attached to a shaft running down the left hand side of the fire-box, which in turn acts via a screw thread upon an arm attached to the outside of the fire-box. This arm converts the rod s rotational direction of movement to an almost horizontal one, pushing or pulling another rod connected directly to the front axle. First of all, as the steering lug has already been covered in the front axle section we come to the steering (control) arm. This is basically a single piece of bright mild steel ³/₁₆ plate, shaped as the drawing, pivoted on a phosphor bronze bush and attached to the left hand side of the fire-box. The upper arm sits at 45 degrees from the upright position for marking out purposes, while the lower arm is upright. This upper angle is produced by the rake of your steering column and may be better seen by drawing with a pencil where you wish your steering column to sit at the side of your fire-box. I found the steering wheel and rod looked really comfortable on PYRTE at anywhere between the 40 to 50 degree angle as can be seen in the not too clear picture above.

6 The starting point is a piece of ³/₁₆ plate at 1½ x 3¾ inches, and with the ends squared a line needs scribing at 1 inch in along one of the edges. This is your centre line for the long lower section. From the top, with the line sitting on your right, mark 1 inch down (the main pivot point) and a further mark at 3¼ inches down for the lower centre. From the upper one an arc needs marking at ¾ inch and mark a line to cross this arc at 45 (heading up towards the top left hand corner). A ⅜ hole needs boring through at the main pivot point with a ³/₁₆ hole at the lower point (although this will be opened up slightly to allow a ³/₁₆ rod a bit of movement) and 2.9mm hole at the upper point for a 6ba clearance size (this can be enlarged if needs be to suit the bolt you will be using in your linkage, and yes, they are a little exaggerated in the drawing). The bearing comes next, and this is made from a length of ¾ diameter phosphor bronze rod, as is the washer. Install the rod in your 3 jaw and square the end. Centre drill with a ¼ drill for a depth of a little over ⅜ and skim a complete cut around the outside for this same ⅜ dimension. Cut the first ³/₁₆ at ⅜ diameter and then part off at ¼ inches along to give a flange at ¹/₁₆ wide. This allows the bearing to sit inside the main pivot point with a bolt sitting inside the bearing. To keep the steering arm away from the body a ¹/₁₆ phosphor bronze washer can be made to the same outer dimensions (¾ diameter x ¹/₁₆ wide) with a ¼ inch diameter hole bored through to sit between the narrower part of the bearing and the firebox body. For the support of the steering arm, a ¼ inch hole is bored through the firebox side and it is held in place by a ¼ nut and bolt, although the position of the hole will be decided upon by the rake angle of your steering column upon the final assembly of the steering. The steering column itself is simply a bright ³/₁₆ rod, and it is best to start off with this a little longer than the 10½ inches needed. On the original I used a ³/₁₆ x 40 thread at the base of the column, only to find the steering wheel had to be turned endlessly to achieve any change in direction. What was happening with this thread was that I needed to turn the wheel through 40 revolutions to get nearly from lock to lock. Normal traction engine fashion tends to work on a 14 to 16 revolutions to do the same, and the nearest we can get to that is a ⅜ whitworth at 16 tpi, but this means the steering column looks a little odd, so as I did not have those taps and dies to hand it was a case of using the ³/₁₆ x 40 thread. It is not such a problem, just needs a lot of turning, but on the good side, the steering is very easy to turn it s just a bit of a compromise really.

7 The steering column is fixed at the top by a small brass bracket attached to the top of the fire box and needs a flange soldering on to allow the steering column to push the steering arm without rising up the body without turning the steering. The steering (rod) column itself is ³/₁₆ steel (it was originally made of bright mild steel as can be seen in this picture, but this proved to be too soft, so I recommend you use silver steel or stainless for this purpose) and is 10½ inches long. From the bottom a length of 2¼ inches is threaded ³/₁₆ x 40 (my sizes). The next job is to turn a small steel tube (the flange) with a length of ½ an inch at ⁵/₁₆ outside diameter with a ³/₁₆ hole through the middle. This is soldered in place on the column at 7½ inches up from the base. (Nothing hard and fast here as there needs to be spacers installed and these can be measured to suit your build). The copper looking tube in this picture is exactly that, soldered onto a brass strip which is bolted with 4ba s to the tender side and with the nuts sitting just to the rear of the backplate, that way allowing the bolts to be tightened into their nuts, with a ⁵/₁₆ o/d brass spacer sitting above and below on the steering column, with the wheel at the top and the fixed flange showing down at the bottom. The positioning of the bolts and brass strip was initially a little awkward to accomplish as my strip and tube were heated a few times to melt the silver solder to get the alignment right. The wheel has a 1¼ diameter brass rim starting at ½ an inch thick with the first part turned down to ¼ inch diameter for a length of ¼ inch. A taper needs turning now from the end of the ¼ mark to the outside edge at ⅜ along, that way leaving ⅛ for the wheel rim itself. If you part it off a little over the ½ inch mark and turn it end to end in your chuck, a dish effect can be turned and the centre boring through at 2.4mm before tapping ⅛ x 40 to allow the steering wheel to be screwed onto the steering column. Alternatively you could thread it 4ba and use a 4ba nut to lock the steering wheel in place rather than having to reduce the last little bit and thread it for the 8ba nut, just to make your life easier. Before the spacers are made, the bottom screwed end needs sorting to get the positions right.

8 First off, a ¼ inch hole needs drilling through the left hand firebox side panel for the mounting point of your steering control arm at 2½ inches from the front of the firebox and 1½ inches up from the bottom. In this position the nut on the inside just sits below the insulation lining inside the fire box when the arm and its bearing is bolted in place. The part that runs up and down on the rods thread is a ⁵/₁₆ diameter x 1 inch length of phosphor bronze, bored and tapped to match the rods threads. This is silver soldered to a piece of metal that is like a saddle and has two holes bored through at ½ an inch below and at 90 to the centre of the steering column. The hole size is drilled to match a 6ba clearance at 2.9mm as I used a shortened 6ba bolt and nut to hold this part to the top of the steering arm. The bright mild steel rod between the steering arm and the front axle is again ³/₁₆ diameter and mine is almost 10 inches long, but as my boiler is a little short, you will be best to use a 1 foot length and trim the length once it is assembled. At the point of contact with the steering arm, the rod is bent at 90 at the ¼ inch mark and then the opposite way at the ½ inch mark, that way the tip is pointing in the same direction as the main shaft. With a fine file, open up the hole in the bottom of the steering arm so that the bends go through the hole and the tip is sitting on the inside of the arm with the main shaft in line with the arm. With the longer part of the steering arm sitting straight down and the front axle straight across, then you should now see how far the rod has to be threaded to go into the lug. Allow two ³/₁₆ nuts locked together on both sides of the lug, with just a nadgers of clearance between the lug face and the nuts as that will give some flexibility in the steering arrangement. All that s needed now is to assemble it all together and to trim the surplus from the front of the rod and screw the steering column in place so that there is an equal amount of thread showing above and below the phosphor bronze screw sitting at the top of the steering arm before measuring the gaps for the brass filler pieces on the steering column. These are ⁵/₁₆ o/d with a ³/₁₆ hole through the middle and need to be a sliding fit on the shaft. Next we move on to the front and rear wheels.

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