MGB V8 Roadster restoration project Report 128

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Mervin Richardson
5 years ago
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20th March 2017. Sorry to keep you in suspenders between report 127 and report 128, with regards to the indicator stalk switch.

from the indicator stalk arm. Unfortunately, there was not enough wire left sticking out from the white plastic fixing to solder the wire back on.

Note the new one is on the left of the photo. See the hole in the middle that is the clamp that holds it on the steering column. The hole is too small to go over the column!

These are the parts that fall out when you take the indicator switch apart: 3 x springs, 4 x plastic insulators that fit in the springs, 1 x short copper plunger, 1 x ball bearing and 1 x

1 20th March Sorry to keep you in suspenders between report 127 and report 128, with regards to the indicator stalk switch. INDICATOR & HORN STALK SWITCH - continued After removing all the internal parts, so that I could get to the wire connections, I found that the black earth wire for the horn had broken away from the indicator stalk arm. Unfortunately, there was not enough wire left sticking out from the white plastic fixing to solder the wire back on. I tried removing the white plastic pivot from the stalk, but it would not budge without, probably, damaging it. I ordered a new switch for a 1976 on MGB and this turned up. Note the new one is on the left of the photo. See the hole in the middle that is the clamp that holds it on the steering column. The hole is too small to go over the column! I have ed the seller with photos of the problem. I will ring today and chase them up for an answer. These are the parts that fall out when you take the indicator switch apart: 3 x springs, 4 x plastic insulators that fit in the springs, 1 x short copper plunger, 1 x ball bearing and 1 x plastic bit. I suggest that as new switches are still available, it would be best to buy a new one rather than try to repair an old broken one. The wires across the front panel were loomed up and held in place with stainless rubber insulated clips bolted to the front lip of the bonnet shut panel with stainless bolts, lock nuts and washers. V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-128 1

A pair of white and white, with a black trace wires were added to the front loom for the ignition coil.

holes, with stainless steel clips with rubber inserts, to help stop any chaffing of the wiring loom.

loom takes a lot longer than you think, especially when you are changing from a 4-way fuse box to a

2 A pair of white and white, with a black trace wires were added to the front loom for the ignition coil. The loom to the front of the was fixed to the left hand inner wing through, mainly existing threaded holes, with stainless steel clips with rubber inserts, to help stop any chaffing of the wiring loom. The wires from the front of the MG to the bulkhead were loomed up, remembering to include the wires going to the MAF sensor. Sorting out the wires from the engine loom, fuel injection ECU, front loom, rear loom and main wiring loom takes a lot longer than you think, especially when you are changing from a 4-way fuse box to a 16-way fuse box. I actually find it quite therapeutic for a time, until you get bogged down with so many wires and circuits. V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-128 2

I needed a rest from wiring, so I got on with making the lump of metal to bolt to the earlier chrome bumper MGBGTV8

I found a round billet of scrap steel amongst my supply of useful things that may come in handy one day.

The cut off end was then machined and the centre bored out to fit over the inner steering column.

After turning it down to the correct diameters I used a cut off tool that bolts to the back of the lathe apron.

3 I needed a rest from wiring, so I got on with making the lump of metal to bolt to the earlier chrome bumper MGBGTV8 type steering wheel to cancel the indicators. I found a round billet of scrap steel amongst my supply of useful things that may come in handy one day. Sometimes it helps being a hoarder! The cut off end was then machined and the centre bored out to fit over the inner steering column. This end will bolt to the steering wheel. After turning it down to the correct diameters I used a cut off tool that bolts to the back of the lathe apron. The final cutting off was with a hacksaw. All that I need to do now is drill the two holes to bolt the indicator canceller to the steering wheel and machine the tube part in the milling machine to make the prongs. These prongs will operate the indicator cancelling mechanism on the indicator stalk switch. V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-128 3

Holes drilled and steering wheel holes threaded

Checking that I have machined enough metal away

to make the prongs that will operate the

4 Holes drilled and steering wheel holes threaded for bolts. Checking that I have machined enough metal away to fit the plastic part of the indicator stalk switch. Machining the metal away with a milling cutter to make the prongs that will operate the indicator cancelling mechanism. Ready to clean up and fit. V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-128 4

Making a bracket to mount the windscreen washer bottle.

a VW. Fitting Rivnuts to mount the plate that will hold

Rivnuts were also fitted to the inner wing to bolt the

Now to check the washer bottle will fit to the bracket.

Now, I have to take it off again for painting.

5 Making a bracket to mount the windscreen washer bottle. The washer bottle and pump is an aftermarket version for a VW. Fitting Rivnuts to mount the plate that will hold the washer bottle. Rivnuts were also fitted to the inner wing to bolt the bracket onto the inner wing. Now to check the washer bottle will fit to the bracket. It seems to fit OK. Now, I have to take it off again for painting. The 16 way fuse box and 4 way relay box are mounted on the bulkhead behind the washer bottle and pump. V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-128 5

This seems a good space to fit the radiator expansion tank.

I marked the plate up where the holes needed to be drilled.

before you bend the plate, as it is easier to drill holes into a flat plate.

6 This seems a good space to fit the radiator expansion tank. A bracing plate was made up to strengthen the area between the mounting bolts on the clamp for the expansion tank. A bracket needs to be made up to mount it the expansion tank at an angle on the bulkhead. I marked the plate up where the holes needed to be drilled. It may seem obvious to some, but it is always best to drill all the holes you need before you bend the plate, as it is easier to drill holes into a flat plate. After bending the bracket roughly to the correct angle it was clamped to the bench to adjust the angle so that the cap was more or less horizontal. V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-128 6

To hold the plate at the correct angle, and to stop it bending in use, a brace was

The bracket was then removed, blasted in the cabinet, etch primed and painted.

7 To hold the plate at the correct angle, and to stop it bending in use, a brace was cut out of sheet metal to weld in. The bracket was then removed, blasted in the cabinet, etch primed and painted. I added some rubber U channel to help hold the radiator expansion tank mounting band in place. REWIRING THE DASHBOARD One mounting hole was marked and a Rivnut fitted to the flat part of the bulkhead. The bracket was then mounted in place and the other mounting holes marked with a scriber, drilled and fitted with Rivnuts. I am not that impressed with the wiring loom that fits at the back of the dashboard. V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-128 7

To me the wiring loom looks a bit tatty, with cables joined together and some of the wires far too long.

First of all, I tackled the instrument panel light bulbs which I had changed to LED bulbs.

After I separated the wires I checked with a battery that all the bulbs in the instrument lights and warning

I made a new part of the loom for the live and earth wires for the switch illumination.

8 To me the wiring loom looks a bit tatty, with cables joined together and some of the wires far too long. The first job to do was to cut the old loom sleeving away to enable me to get to the wires. First of all, I tackled the instrument panel light bulbs which I had changed to LED bulbs. I shortened and joined wires with solder and covered the joins with heat shrink. After I separated the wires I checked with a battery that all the bulbs in the instrument lights and warning lights worked before I started puzzling how to make the wiring look a bit more professional looking. I made a new part of the loom for the live and earth wires for the switch illumination. At the end of the live (red) wire I fitted a bullet connector as I am considering fitting a lamp for the inside of the glove box. V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-128 8

Starting to look slightly less like a muddle. What a muddle!

The hole for the new power socket, which is replacing the original cigar lighter,

the old type rheostat dimmer switches will not work with LED bulbs.

9 Starting to look slightly less like a muddle. What a muddle! I think I know what I m doing. The hole for the new power socket, which is replacing the original cigar lighter, needed the hole opening up with a taper drill, to fit the slightly larger diameter power socket. After buying a new dimmer switch for the dashboard instrument lights I twigged that the old type rheostat dimmer switches will not work with LED bulbs. Instead of the dimmer switch I decided to use one of the new rocker switches as an ON or OFF switch for the instrument bulbs. Here I am about to solder on a terminal to connect to the switch. V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report-128 9

Getting there slowly. I think this wiring looks more of a mess now than when I started tidying it up.

As I am fitting a lot more fuses than the original 1978 MGB I may have to still alter some of the dashboard wiring.

kept moving or popping out as I fixed the wires in place.

Checking that the new ECU warning light works, before I fit it to the dashboard.

At this point, I was still waiting for Pete to solder the wire for the tachometer, hence the hole in the dashboard between the temp

10 Getting there slowly. I think this wiring looks more of a mess now than when I started tidying it up. I won t loom the wires up until I am sure I don t need to modify some of the circuits. As I am fitting a lot more fuses than the original 1978 MGB I may have to still alter some of the dashboard wiring. The blue stuff on the back of the dashboard is Blu Tack, I have used this to hold some of the clamps and switches in place, as they kept moving or popping out as I fixed the wires in place. Once finished with the dashboard wiring I may remove the Blu Tack or, I may leave it in place, decisions, and even more decisions. Checking that the new ECU warning light works, before I fit it to the dashboard. I fitted the ECU warning lamp where the instrument light dimmer used to fit. At this point, I was still waiting for Pete to solder the wire for the tachometer, hence the hole in the dashboard between the temp and fuel gauges. The wiring loom to the front of the car firmly fixed in place, away from the heat of the engine and held in place with the stainless steel P clips with rubber inserts to protect the wiring loom. You can me at: mikemacartney@btconnect.com with any hints or tips you have, which may help me, or other V8 register members. 24th March V8 Register MG Car Club V8-restoration-Mike-Macartney-Report

MGB V8 Roadster restoration project Report 130

MGB V8 Roadster restoration project Report 130 1 st April 2017. I promise I won t add in any April Fool jokes into this report. But of course anything is possible! Yesterday, I only managed an hour on the MG, as I helped Jaymic with their stock take.