These instructions were written for a MkVI VW GTI, but other models (Audi A3, VW Beetle, VW Jetta) are similar.

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Gordon Blair
6 years ago
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3 Notes: These instructions were written for a MkVI VW GTI, but other models (Audi A3, VW Beetle, VW Jetta) are similar. When disassembling the car, be sure to keep all fasteners so they can be reused. It is recommend that you get some kind of compartmented tray to organize the fastners, such as a fi shing tackle box or several large ice cube trays. Fasteners that are not reused for reinstallation are noted in the instructions. These instructions assume that you have basic mechanical skills and several varieties of the tools listed in order to install the kit. If you have any questions about the install, feel free to contact your APR representative.

4 1) Support the car on jack stands or a lift. Open the hood and disconnect the two 10mm battery terminals. Remove the 13mm battery hold down bolt and remove the battery from the car. Remove the three 10mm battery bolts from the battery tray and remove the tray from the car.

5 2) Remove the belly pan on the car with a T25 Torx. Also remove the eight T25 screws connecting the lower part of the bumper to the core support.

6 3) Remove the two T25 screws that connect the intake ducting to the radiator support. Then remove any intake plumbing from the left side of the engine that might get in the way of the APR OPS install.

7 4) Remove the front radiator grill by removing the four upper T25 Torx screws. The grill can then be pulled forward and removed from the car.

8 5) Remove the six T25 screws from the front of both left and right fender liners. The lower front section of the fender liner can now be removed.

9 6) Remove the two T25 Torx Screws on the top of the bumper that were revealed when the radiator grill was removed.

10 7) Carefully pull the sides of the bumper away from the car, and then slide the bumper forward.

11 8) Disconnect the foglight electrical connector and sidemarker connector from each side of the bumper. Disconnect the metal clip connecting the wiring harness to the bumper.

12 9) With a partner, slide the bumper cover forward several inches. Clamp the headlight washer line before the T with a suitable tool to prevent washer fl uid loss. Remove the washer lines from the clips at each washer, and separate the line from the clips in the bumper.

13 10) Remove the bumper and carefully set aside as not to scratch the paint.

14 11) Remove the three T30 screws from the front of the headlight assembly.

15 12) Remove the three T30 screws holding the top side of the headlight to the vehicle.

16 13) Remove the two T25 screws that connect the plastic headlight frame to the fender of the car.

17 14) Release the retaining tab on the inside front of the headlight frame, and remove the headlight assembly from the car.

18 15) Using your preferred tool, cut the two tabs for the factory airbox off of the battery tray. Also, notch the sides of the middle bolt hole so that the APR bracket can be attached to that bolt hole.

19 16) On GTI s, trim a small crescent shape from the bottom rear of the headlight frame.

20 17) On top of the frame rail, loosen the 13mm nut to the chassis ground. Rotate the upper ground cable 180 and retighten the nut. Also, remove the power cable from the plastic guide and push it back and to the left to keep it out of the way.

21 18) Reroute the secondary air hose to under the frame rail. The intake hose that normally goes to the airbox can also be removed, and whatever fi lter that was being used can be installed directly on the secondary air pump.

22 19) Remove the two T30 screws that mount the heater core tubing to the side and front of the intake manifold.

23 20) On DSG cars, slide back the protective boot on the starter. Loosen the 13mm nut on the power lead to the starter. Rotate the lead counterclockwise until the lead is facing the front of the car. Tighten the bolt and then reinstall the boot on the starter.

24 21) On a clean work area, loosely assemble the brackets and clamps onto the OPS. The clamps must be installed at the very ends of the tube. Lightly tighten all of the hardware, so that the brackets and clamps can still be adjusted once in the car.

25 22) Reinstall the battery tray in the vehicle. Install the OPS assembly in the vehicle and loosely install the three mounting bolts on the battery tray and the socket head screw for the bracket.

26 23) For DSG cars, add spacers between the bracket and the mounting post. Space the unit enough just to allow the bottom of the assembly to clear the starter.

27 24) Using a pair of pliers wrapped with a rag, remove the metal threaded insert from the old oil fi lter. The rag is used to prevent damage to the threads of the insert. Clean any old thread sealant off this insert with a wire brush.

28 25) Prepare to assemble the oil fi lter adapter by applying a few drops of Loctite to the small threads on the oil fi lter insert.

29 26) Assemble the thread adapters to the fi lter plate as ahown. Apply clean engine oil to the o-ring gasket as you would for a regular oil fi lter change.

30 27) Loosely install the oil fi lter adapter onto the oil fi lter housing but do not tighten the main nut holding it in place. Make sure the o-ring gasket does not fall off or become pinched during installation. Orient the oil fi lter adapter such that the hose fi tting points towards the right front corner of the car.

31 28) Loosely install the hose on the oil fi lter adapter. After confi rming the hose has suffi cent clearance between the frame rail and engine, torque the oil fi lter adapter bolt to 15 lb-ft. Then fully tighten the hose on the adapter to 30 lb-ft. Install a new oil fi lter, and then reinstall the two T30 bolts holding the heater hose to the intake manifold.

32 29) Remove the four 16mm bolts and two T30 screws from both sides of the crash beam.

33 30) Loosen but do not completely remove the two screws holding the center of the crash beam. This will allow the beam to hang loosely from the two center screws.

34 31) Route the hose from the oil fi lter underneath the frame rail and core support, over the horn, and into the backside of the crash beam. On cars that have crash beams that are not open on the back side, route the hose underneath the crash beam.

35 32) The hose sits inside the crash beam and exits on the left side of the beam.

36 33) Remove the four philips screws from the solenoid valve, but do not open the valve. Assemble the solenoid valve to the bracket as shown; depending on the vehicle you are working on. The bolt spacing is different on some frame rails. Install the four screws holding the bracket to the valve and torque to 26 lb-in.

37 34) Connect all the hoses hand tight, on both sides of the solenoid and to the OPS. The elbow end of the short hose goes to the OPS.

35) Reinstall the crash beam bolts, installing the solenoid bracket on top of the crash beam. Use the guide holes to align the bumper and radiator support.

38 35) Reinstall the crash beam bolts, installing the solenoid bracket on top of the crash beam. Use the guide holes to align the bumper and radiator support. The supplied washers may be needed for spacing on some vehicles. Tighten the eight crash beam bolts to 44 lb-ft and the four T30 screws to 72 lb-in. Also tighten the two T30 center screws on the crash beam to 72 lb-in. Tighten the remaining three AN fi ttings to 30 lb-ft. Torque the battery tray to 15 lb-ft. After making sure the OPS is positioned correctly (with the clamps on the extreme ends of the tube), tighten the clamp nuts to 72 lb-in. Tighten the clamp to bracket bolts to 120 lb-in.

39 36) Connect the fused wire from the solenoid valve to the approriate location on the underhood fuse panel. Use the diagrams on the next three pages as a reference. For GTI s, connect the wire to SA7. There are two different styles of fuse panels in GTI s, and one might require an included M5 nut.

40 37) Connect the fused wire from the solenoid valve to the approriate location on the underhood fuse panel. For Jetta s, connect the wire to SA4.

41 38) Connect the fused wire from the solenoid valve to the approriate location on the underhood fuse panel. For Beetle s, connect the wire to SA4.

42 39) Connect the remaining black wire from the solenoid to either terminal on the pressure switch.

43 40) Install the APR CAN controller mounting bracket to the battery tray as shown with the two supplied 10mm bolts and washers.

44 41) Install the APR CAN controller to the mounting bracket with the two 5mm allen screws and washers.

45 42) Connect the APR wiring harness to the CAN controller, and secure with the attached 1/4 screw.

46 43) Connect the black wire from the CAN controller to either of the chassis grounds shown. Trim the black wire CAN controller to length, and then install the supplied ring terminal to the wire and connect to the chassis ground. Some vehicle ground points will be on the side of the frame rail.

47 44) Connect the white wire from the APR CAN controller to the other terminal on the pressure switch. Trim the wire to length, install the supplied spade terminal, and connect to the pressure switch.

48 45) Crimp the red wire from the APR CAN controller to the butt connector that comes preattached to the previously installed fuse holder. Once crimped, evenly heat all three connectors (ring, spade, and butt) on the APR harness with a small butane torch or other adequate heat source to seal the shrink wrap.

49 46) Disconnect the six pin connector that is located on the top of the frame rail. The connectors from the APR CAN controller splice into this connector. Simply plug the harness from the CAN Controller into either side of the factory connector.

50 47) Reinstall and reconnect the battery in the vehicle. Torque the battery 13mm battery hold down bolt to 26 lb-ft.

48) Bleed the pressure out of the OPS before its first use. To do this, simply relieve pressure from the schrader valve next to the gauge. The pressure should drop to around 7-10psi.

51 48) Bleed the pressure out of the OPS before its first use. To do this, simply relieve pressure from the schrader valve next to the gauge. The pressure should drop to around 7-10psi. Follow the procedures at the end of this manual for OPS Oil Fill Procedure. While the engine is running for the fi rst time with the OPS, be sure to check for oil leaks in any part of the system.

52 49) Reinstall the headlight in the vehicle being sure to push it in far enough to catch the retaining tab on the front inside of the headlight. Reinstall the three T30 screws in the top of the headlight.

53 50) Reinstall the three T30 screws from the bottom front of the headlight assembly.

54 51) Reinstall the two T25 screws that connect the plastic headlight frame to the fender of the car.

55 52) Loosely test fi t the intake on the car, noting where the intake may contact the OPS. Then install the supplied foam tape in the best location on the OPS so the intake does not rub against it. Reinstall the two T25 screws that connect the intake ducting to the radiator support and reinstall the rest of the intake system.

56 53) With a partner, get the bumper cover and place it close to its original position on the car. Reinstall the headlight washer hose in the original clips in the bumper, and reconnect the headlight washers. Release the clamp on the headlight washer hose and check for leaks.

57 54) Reconnect the foglights and sidemarker electrical connections on both sides of the bumper.

58 55) Slide the bumper back into its original position on the car. The sides of the bumper cover snap back in place. Reinstall the two T25 Torx screws that normally sit hidden behind the radiator grill to keep the bumper cover in place.

59 56) Reinstall all of the T25 Torx screws that connect the bumper to the wheel well liners, including the two T25 Torx screws that connect the bumper to the fenders.

60 57) Reinstall all of the T25 screws that run along the bottom of the front bumper. Also reinstall the belly pan on the car with the T25 Torx screws.

61 58) Place the radiator grill into its original location, and install the four T25 screws.

62 OPS Oil Change Procedure Follow these additional steps when performing any oil change with the OPS. 1) Dump the oil contents of the OPS before removing the old oil fi lter. To do this, with the ignition off, simply press the pushbutton on the APR CAN Controller until the gauge on the OPS reads around 7-10psi (a pre-charged level). This might take up to 30 seconds to fully dump the contents of the OPS. 2) After removing the old oil fi lter, check the torque on the oil fi lter adapter. It should be 15 lb-ft. 3) Follow the OPS Oil Fill Procedure when filling the engine with oil. OPS Oil Fill Procedure 1) Fill the engine with oil as normal, but add one extra quart. 2) Crank the engine and rev gently to 2000rpm for a few seconds to build oil pressure in the OPS. 3) Turn the engine off and confi rm that OPS has at least 40 psi of pressure after the engine is off. 4) Top off engine oil as needed. OPS Maintenance Routinely check the following items: - Check the pre-charge pressure with the unit totally empty of oil to make sure air has not leaked out of the unit. - Manually discharge the unit with the engine off, and ensure that it automatically refi lls after the engine is restarted.

63 Symptom APR OPS not filling or fi lling too slowly. APR OPS Hardware Troubleshooting Possible Cause When fi lling from the pre-charge capacity, the unit may take several seconds to completely pressurize. The electric valve may be installed backwards. It should be mounted so the arrow on the valve points away from the APR OPS tank. If the valve is mounted backwards oil will not enter the tank during normal operating conditions. The pre-charge is set too high and is not allowing oil to enter the tank. Reset the pre-charge according to the instructions. The tank is bent, distorted or mounted incorrectly. Ensure all clamps and brackets are installed straight and not in a bind. APR OPS not discharging correctly. The electric valve is installed incorrectly. The arrow on the valve should point away from the APR OPS tank. The electric valve has become contaminated with some foreign substance and is therefore not able to function correctly. A rebuild will be necessary in this case. Contact APR for further instruction. Electric power is not reaching the solenoid valve. Check all electrical connections and perform test on the controller (Refer to APR OPS Controller Testing) The pre-charge is set too high and no oil has had a chance to enter the APR OPS tank. The pre-charge has been lost or is too low. APR OPS not holding a pre-charge. APR OPS is leaking. Indication of a leak in the air side of the tank. See causes for leaks below. To locate the source of a leak check all lines, fittings, and gauges. Leaks on the oil side of the unit are likely to produce an oil drip. Leaks on the air side of the unit can be found by pressurizing the unit to 60 psi then applying soapy water to each area and checking for bubbles. Inspect and tighten any leaking fittings or gauges. To verify your unit is leak free we recommend pressurizing the unit to 60 psi then waiting overnight to confirm the unit has retained the pressure. Note: A temperature change will affect pressure. If a pipe thread is leaking, it will need to be resealed. Remove the fitting. Apply Teflon tape to the fitting and reinstall. Other forms of pipe sealing such as pipe dope, silicone, and liquid Teflon are not recommended. All fittings that thread directly into the APR OPS tank, brass solenoid valve, and oil filter adapter are pipe threads. If one of the AN style fittings leaks, it might be damaged. Disconnect the fitting and check for nicks or deep scratches on the angled sealing surface. Leaks at the end caps of the APR OPS are very rare, unless the unit has been damaged. If the end caps are leaking, the unit should be returned to APR for inspection and possible rebuild.

64 Symptom A leak at the Safety Relief Valve can be caused by several issues. Air gauge not reading correctly Possible Cause If the safety relief valve (brass fitting on oil side of tank) is leaking, it is very likely the OPS has been set up incorrectly. Check your installation instructions and reset the pre-charge. Under no circumstance shall the safety valve be replaced with a plug. Pre-charge is set incorrectly. Review procedure for setting pre-charge. An air leak is allowing the system to become hydraulically locked. The APR OPS tank is bent or otherwise damaged and is preventing the internal piston from moving. Blow-off valve needs tightening or teflon tape to seal. Contamination is caught in the safety valve from previous purging casuing a small leak Defective safety valve. Contact APR for warranty claim (if eligible). The air gauge is a commercial gauge to be used as a relative reference and not as a precise measure of pressure. Over the years there have been slight variations in readings between the different types and different manufacturers of gauges. Your gauge should be able to give a good indication of the pressure in the air side of the unit. The gauge can be checked by reading the pressure in the air fill valve with a known accurate tire gauge. APR CAN Controller Operation OPS LPFP Ignition OFF, Engine OFF If the Button on the APR CAN controller is pressed and held down, the LED should illuminate solidly and the OPS solenoid will fi re to dump the contents of the OPS tank. No Indication Ignition ON, Engine OFF No Indication If the Button on the APR CAN controller is pressed and held down, the LED should illuminate solidly and the APR LPFP will run continuously. Ignition ON, Engine ON If the engine RPM is above 1500, the LED on the CAN controller should fl ash twice per second, unless the LPFP is activated. If the engine RPM is below 1500, the LED on the CAN controller should flash once every three seconds, unless the LPFP is activated. If the engine RPM is above 1500 AND engine load is high, the LED will illuminate solid indicating the LPFP is activated.

65 APR OPS Warranty Terms All hardware included in the system, except for the APR CAN Controller, is covered by a 90 Day manufacturer warranty. This covers any manufacturing or item quality defects during this 90 day term. The term begins on the APR invoice date from which the unit is purchased, after this term has completed there are no longer any warranty coverages on the included hardware items. The APR CAN Controller is covered by a 12 Month, 12,000 Mile warranty (Whichever occurs fi rst) from date of purchase and installation. This warranty covers any manufacturing defects or quality issues during this time. Once the warranty terms have ended there is no additional warranty coverage on the APR CAN Controller. This warranty does not cover any installation errors or improper use or installation on a vehicle the unit is not designed to fi t. The warranty also does not cover labor charges for removal and reinstallation, or vehicle down time. All warranties expressed or implied outside of these documented terms will not be honored.

APR, LLC

APR, LLC + 1. 3 3 4. 5 0 2. 5 1 8 1 4 8 0 0 U S H W Y 2 8 0 W e s t, O p e l i k a, A l a b a m a 3 6 8 0 1 4 8 0 0 U S H W Y 2 8 0 W e s t, O p e l i k a, A l a b a m a 3 6 8 0 1 + 1. 3 3 4. 5 0 2. 5 1 8 1 NOTES: