RS04 RS16 RS19 RS18 PHOTOETCHED: CAST: DECALS: SCREWS: OTHER: - RS02 RS03 RS04 RS05 RS08 RS09 RS16 RS18 RS19 M23. 8x T03

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1 PART 2 chapter 3 building steps 2 A1 Engine/gearbox casing Cyanacrylate () sand paper RS19 RS04 RS16 RS02 RS09 RS08 RS05 RS03 Stick together the crankshaft casing as gap-free as possible from the designated parts. Therefore carefully grind exactly plain all the adhesive surfaces! Deburr all parts carefully before sticking and try dry for fitment! RS18 - RS02 RS03 RS04 RS05 RS08 RS09 RS16 RS18 RS A2 Cylinder heads Drillbit Ø1,5 Sand paper bore Ø 1,5 mm 0 bore Ø 1,5 mm (l s + r s) M23 M23 bore 4x Ø 1,5 mm Use the sleeves T03 mm for exact assembly of the cylinder heads. Use the head seals 0 as a drilling template for cylinder heads and crankshaft housings. Bore the mating holes of the cylinders and the two holes for the oil filler necks in the oil pan with Ø 1.5 mm. Use at least three dowel pins per cylinder bank. 0 8x T03 0 M23 2x x T03 12

2 2 B1 Timing casing M54 Use a brass profile Ø 1,5 mm for centering RS17 2x 9 M60 Put the timing housing RS17 in such a way to the engine casing, that the top side stands concisely and centrically to the cylinder banks (see arrows)! M27 RS15 4x 9 RS15 RS17 W0 M60 M57 M58 RS12 RS22 M59 Then stick all attachments to the timing casing. Use a piece of brass profile (Ø 1.5 mm) for centering the 9 parts! RS12 4x 9 2x M54 M27 RS17 RS M57 M58 RS12 W0 M59 M60 RS15 2 B2 Engine casing attachments Einlöten Solder der in Stehbolz a vice! en im Schraubstock M7 M5 M6 M8 M8 Solder the exhaust manifold flanges (in the vice) from photoetched parts 2, 3 and 20 equal screws. Leave the parts in their photoetched framework for this work (see photo). 8 10x Use the Solder very economically! Solder Flux 8 RS M6 3 2 M5 M7 File surplus Solder from the back, so that the flanges can be stuck properly matching into the photoetched parts M54 (at the cylinder heads)! M5 8 RS21-20x (identical) - M6 4x 2 M7 4x 3 M8 13

3 2 C1 Gearbox casing attachments Solder Flux Drillbit Ø 1 mm Ø 1,4mm Ball miller M24 L76 rework exhaust channels with a ball miller 6 bores each side (Ø 1 mm) for spark plugs! 2 bores Ø 1 mm M22 bore Ø 1,4 mm solder L76 + M22 Solder Brass sleeve L76 with part M22! Stick on transmission exit! Put photoetched part M24 in recess at clutch bell. Drillings Ø 1 mm and 1.4 mm. The drillings Ø 1 mm (for the spark plugs) should be made somewhat diagonally to the exhaust flange set! M22 M L76 2 C2 Attachments - preparation Drillbit Ø 0,7 mm Ø 1 mm Ø 1,6 mm Ball miller bore Ø 0,7 mm RS11 7 drillings Ø 0,7 mm, 2 drillings Ø 0,7 mm RS10 RS07 bore Ø 1,6 mm 6 drillings Ø 0,7 mm W5 RS06 2 drillings Ø 0,7 mm Drill each part with diameters indicated in the picture! Countersink the two drillings at the starter RS10 with a ball Miller - here later a countersunk screw is used! Attention: Do not drill through W5 make dead-endholes! 2 drillings Ø 0,7 mm, countersink with a ball miller - RS06 RS07 RS10 2x RS11 2x W

4 2 D1 Painting - preparation Double sided tape Support Engine stand (Size acc. to drawing) Base board Rubber ring 37 mm Ø 2 mm 39 mm 29 mm 4x Messingbuc hse L109 aufgelötet, T06 (Halter) Ø 2 mm Fix all parts of the same colour (here: flat black) on a base plate for spraying! You can now build yourself an engine mounting plate for the coming assembly procedures. The photo can serve as an accompanying suggestion. You should also separate the parts according to their future colours (see reference photo) and fix them with double-sided tape on a little wooden board. However you must leave sufficient space between the individual parts, in order to prevent spraying shades x L109 4x T06 (Ø 2 x 60 mm) 2 D2 Cylinder head cover r s, starter Solder Flux Only attach, do not stick! Mounting will follow in chapter 2 16x 2x RS06 M49 2x M39 7 2x RS10 2x RS13 4x Decorate the starter RS10 with suitable countersunk screws, the head cover RS06 with 16 resembling screws and RS13 with 4x. Altogether you need at least 40 pieces of this sort! Note: only attach, do not stick the lever made from 2x M39! 2x T02, cut with grinding disk 7, M20, 2x M39 RS06, RS10, RS13-20x, 2x, 2x (identical) 2x, 2x T02 15

5 Autograph 2 E1 Cylinder head l s, gear selector Drillbit Ø 0,7 mm Tube Ø 14mm Round material Ø 10mm 5 +1 drillings Ø 0,7 mm Shorten and bend gear lever T04, 15 mm 4x 10 mm WM03 4x 16x 2x T02, (shortened) mount turnable! inner Ø ~ 14 mm outer Ø ~ 10 mm M53 (bend) 7 5x M53 2x M39 Polish M53 with the mini drill. Leave the part in the framework during this work. For bending the part, a tube with an inner Ø of approx. 12 mm as well as a round material (approx. Ø 10 mm) is suitable (see sketch). Bore WM03 after gluing on M53 with 5x Ø 0.7 mm for using the 5 Screws + 1 drilling Ø 0.7 mm for the gear lever. M53, 7, 2x M39 WM03-5x, 4x, 20x (identical) 3x 2x T02 T04 2 E2 Adding the prepared parts, housing bolts cylinder head r s gear selector box cylinder head l s starter Anlasser Decorate the complete engine housing with srews. (See Chapter 2 - General notes, Watchmaker screws). MXX 2x If I did not encount myself, these are 109 identical screws. Paint them in a thin, translucent black! M2 M x S3 + M2 W1 Stick the cylinder head covers, the gear selector box and the starter on the engine housing. M2 W1-109x, 2x (identical) M2+, S3-16

6 2 F1 Distributor, ignition cables l s 18 x M45 Fixture für W2 paint and drill W2 (Ø 0,7 mm) (make a wooden support for painting) cable Ø 0,6 mm W5 W2 bore Ø 0,7 mm RS11 M43 3x 3x 6x 6x RS20 Sequence: M43 36 x M45 W5, 6x W2 RS11 RS20-6x, 3x, 6x, 3x (identical), 1. Build up the distributor using parts RS11 and RS20, screw on cable ring M43, decorate the building group with (altogether 18x) 2. Spark plugs: paint W2, bore (Ø 0.7) and attach! 3. Ignition cable tube: After completing the cylinder head screws with M45 (refer to step 2 M2), glue W5 on the cylinder head cover, connect all cables (through cable run M43) T07 (cable Ø 0,6 mm) 2 F2 Distributor, ignition cables r s Solder Flux paint the exhaust channels flat black Sequence like l s! Additionally: Make rev. counter drive from 2 screws and stick it to the right distributor. 4x M55 (l s + r s) 4x M56 (l s + r s) 6x cable Ø 0,6 mm M2 2x, soldered together as rev. counter drive RS20 6x 3x 3x M43 RS11 W2 W5 Paint all exhaust channels in flat black and stick on photoetched gaskets M55 and M56! M43, 4x M55, 4x M56 W5, 6x W2 RS11 RS20-6x, 3x, 6x, 3x (identical),, 2x (soldered), +M2 T07 (cable Ø 0,6 mm) 17

7 2 G1 Engine stand Solder Flux nut M3 S1 After soldering the stands: paint them depending on your personal choice Solder all! 12x T08 Bend the soldering assistances upwards and stick a small piece of self adhesive aluminium foil over it, so the stands will be soldered to the photoetched frame. Fix it during soldering i. e. with hex. tool or tweezers! 12x M2 Hold the parts in position during soldering. 4x, 12x M2 4x M x 4x S1 T05 (self adhesive aluminium foil) 12x T08 2 G2 Carburettors - connection Sand paper Drillbit Ø 0,6 mm eventuell grind a bit if the trumpets don t fit properly! M52 5 Fix with 12x 6 5 M52 Carefully deburr the carburettors, grind the upper and lower contact areas to level seat. Plug together 5, M52 and 12 trumpets T01 (do not stick!). Then bore the holes with Ø 0.7 mm, pay attention to good alignment of the carburettors. WM01 drill Ø 0,7 mm 12x 6 Screw together 6, 5, M52 and W using 12x. 6x 5 6x 6 M52 6x WM01-12x (identical) 12x T01 18

8 2 H1 Carburettors - preparation Cyanacrylate () Drillbit Ø 0,6 Drillbit Ø 0,8 drill Ø 0,6 mm carburettors r s: drill Ø 0,8 mm Remove the trumpets T01 again! For good alignment when gluing the base plate 4 to the carburettors, use a vice. This is also useful when drilling the carbs. carburettors l s: drill Ø 0,8 mm 4 (bended) drill Ø 0,6 mm H2 Carburettors preparing the trumpets Brass Brush Brass sleeve L101 as a template 12x T01 polishing the trumpets Turn the trumpets T01 in your mini drill and polish them to a high gloss, i. e. with a fine brass brush. 12x L41 12x T09 Venturi tube after mounting the trumpets brass sleeve L101 is only a template for equal levels inside the trumpets do not glue! Make the Venturi tube from T09 und L41, glue it into the trumpets. Use L101 to reach an equal level in every trumpet. Remove L101 - make all 12 trumpets in this way! PHOTOETCHED: ST: DELS: OTHER: OTHER: x L41 L101 12x T01 12x T09 19

9 2 I1 Carburettors fixing the trumpets Cyanacrylate () Ledge T10 to straighten the trumpets T10 filing the trumpets (second row) Use a vice for attaching the first row of trumpets to the carbs. Carefully adjust the trumpets using brass ledge T10 and a rubber ring. Rubber ring Round file Glue with the help of a pin and cyanacrylate. File each of the second row of trumpets with a round file, attach, carefully adjust and glue them to the carburettors. Take care of perfect alignment of all trumpets these parts are the first where one looks at! T10 12 x T01 2 I2 Carburettors gas linkage 1 Solder Flux Mounting the second row of trumpets File the second row of trumpets T01 here (scew in deep) 6x Hold all 6 parts M29 together with their frame in a vice, fold, and solder in 12x. Remove the frame of the levers M29 after they were fixed to the carbs. 12x M30 Every lever should stand in the same M29 6x M29 6x 6x angle! 2x M30 (with frame) (solder) (for mounting) (screw in deep) 6x M29 12x M x, 6x, 6x (jeweils identisch) - 20

10 2 J1 Carburettors gas linkage 1 Cyanacrylate () 6x M28, bend round the gas linkage T11. T11 After mounting the linkage, glue (or solder) the folded lever M40 to the bar. 6x 6x M28 12x M0 M40 Cut approx. 50 mm from the straight wire T11, bend 90 (so that the 12 attached nuts do not fall down). For manufacturing gas linkage, leave the parts M28 in the framework! Put the bar with the nuts M0 on the photoetched framework (see pic.) and bend all parts around it. Glue one nut M0 to each side of M28. Then cut out and shorten the bar! 6x M28 - -, 12x M0, 6x T11, 2 J2 Carburettors left side thin brown wire 6 Stück Isolierschlauch 2,5 mm 6x Cut 6 parts from the isolation of a thin brown wire, length approx. 2,5 mm each. Put these onto photoetched parts M41. When attaching the choke levers to the carburettors, make sure that all levers have the same angle. M41 6x remove the frame of the choke levers M41 after mounting to the carbs with 6x 6x M x (identical) 6x thin brown isolation tube 21

11 2 K1 Intake manifold 4 File Model glue use gap-filling adhesive! Bend photoetched part 4 (90 ), deburr WM02 carefully. Before gluing, take care that all 3 intake manifolds WM02 stand in the same angle. If not, turn round 180. exactly horizontal! 4 3x WM02 eventually turn 180 It is most important, that you try all parts dry before finally gluing the whole unit to the engine with a gap filling adhesive. The whole intake manifold must be mounted exactly horizontal! 4 3x WM K2 Carburettors, Filler neck, oil filter, pulley Align the carbs exactly between the cylinders! tool holder Use the mini drill for grinding the cast parts WM08 and WM20: Sand paper Mini-Drill WM05 WM08 WM08 - grind in the mini drill WM20 WM07 M26 5x hold WM20 in the mini drill for grinding Fill the ignition order plate M26 with black colour and grind back to the metal with fine emery paper! M26 WM05 WM07 WM08 WM20-5x - 22

12 2 L1 Alternator Cyanacrylate () Drillbit Fold M61, bore (Ø1,0) and mount with to the engine. Take care of good alignment of the two pulleys! fold M61 cable isolation, l = 59 mm V-belt: cut a piece of black cable (Ø approx. 0,8 mm) and remove the inner cores. Cut the isolation to 59 mm. Form a ring using a piece of thin wire to connect the two ends. M61 (screw to the housing) WM09 W7 M62 2x M48 2x M45 piece of wire Grind W7 in the mini drill (see picture). M61 M62 2x M48 2x M45 WM09 W7 - black isolation L = 59 mm piece of wire 2 L2 Oil line, filler neck r s Sand paper fold 1 2x W4 Attention: do not confuse parts W9 and WM23! Therefore try dry before gluing! Polish NS16 with the help of the mini drill. M45 M48 M42 NS16 WM23 T13 M5 S5 (shorten) 1 M42 2x M45 2x M48 W4 NS16 WM23-2x S5 (shorten) M5- T13 23

13 2 Gas linkage 3 Solder + flux Cut 2 pieces from the 0,4 mm straight wire T11: 1. l = 17 mm 2. l = 28 mm (+ 1 mm folded) l=28 mm M51 M47 l=17 mm T12 2x M47, T11 (17 mm) 3x M48 2x (solder) 2x M39 Solder 3 joints M47 to the ends. Leave M47 in the frame for this work. Cut out afterwards. Form a matching return spring from the supported material T12. PHOTOETCHED: ST: OTHER: SCREWS: DELS: 2x M39 3x M47 3x M48 M51 - T11 (17 mm) T11 ( mm) T12 2 M2 Oil line, Filler neck l s, clutch lever Making the hose clamps Sand paper Mini-drill (for NS16) 2x - The cut-off rest of WM21 will only be needed, when the engine goes into the car. Fix the 2 filler necks W9 and WM23 with a hose clamp H1 each. The cylinder head screws look better, when you decorate each one with a photoetched nut M45. Polish NS16 in the mini drill (as described in chapter 2L2) PHOTOETCHED: ST: OTHER: SCREWS: OTHER: 3x H1 M46 several M45 1 H1 2x soldered to the levers M39 NS16 H1+ W9 M46 (grind) NS16 W9 WM21 WM06 T15 2x 1 T15 WM21 (cut through) M45 (put on to indicate hex. nuts) 2x 3x 2x 2x WM06 clutch lever 24

14 2 N1 Water pipeline T14 Bend water line W8 to a correct shape before attaching. T16 Put the tubes T14, T15 und T16 onto a matching piece of round material (vice!), mount the hose clamps H1 and then attach the finished tubing. PHOTOETCHED: ST: OTHER: SCREWS: DELS: 6x H1 8 2xM25 M25 W8 L109 H1 T16 (12 mm) W3 (cut through) T16 (10 mm) T13 WM04 W3 W8 T14 T15 8 2x WM04 H1 W3 L109 T14 (6 mm) T15 (10 mm) T16 (10, 12 mm) 4x 4x H1 M25 W8 stick 8 to the engine front, 2x for deco T16 6x 4x 2x 4x 2 N2 Decoration Polishing wax Polishing disk Polish the spanners M31 M37 to a high gloss. Leave all the parts in the frame for this work. Then cout out the inner frame, fold in the middle and stick together with. Use for decoration. The 2 cylinder head gaskets M50 are also for decoration purposes. M31 M37 2x M

15 1/12 Revell based Transkit 250 GTOO EEEngine-kittt 2 O1 Fuel line Loctite-glue Glas-Metal Mini-drill+ cutting disk = seperate here T09 (shortened) T17 T18 T09 (shortened) Seperate the chromed brass fuel line CR22 from the sprue at the indicated spots. Try dry before finally mounting, eventually bend a little. Attention: the chrome will crack, if you bend too much. Add yellow cable T09 T17 with 2 (shortened) shortened sleeves T17 T09. Attach another T09 2 sleeves T09 at (shortened) each end of the fuel CR22 line. That was it! PHOTOETCHED: ST: OTHER: SCREWS: DELS: 2 O2 Finished! CR22 4x T09 2x T17 1x T18 26

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