Suzuki Samurai Trail Slayer Coil Kit Instructions

Transcription

1 Suzuki Samurai Trail Slayer Coil Kit Instructions 1. Remove: (unbolt) *Rear axle, leaf springs, shocks, brake hoses, brake hard lines, e-brake cables, and drive shaft. *Front axle, leaf springs, shocks, brake hoses, brake hard lines, drive shaft, and sway bar. *Steering box, steering shaft, drag link. *Front fenders with grill. *Front and rear bumpers. *Fuel tank. *Radiator and stand / bracket Note: Removal of engine, transmission, and transfer case is NOT required. *Brake proportioning valve and all lines up to the firewall (removal of the two lines across the firewall is NOT required) *All fuel lines. Note: Our build (pictured) will receive all of Trail Tough s premium options so our dis-assembly and prep has gone further than maybe necessary for you. Options include: *2.0 L Engine *3 speed auto transmission *Tub cap *Front / rear cage *Tube front wrap and tube doors *Suspension seats *Ram assist steering *Mighty Kong / Solid t-case mounts *Skid plate *Nerf bars 2. If you have purchased Trail Tough s tub cap. This would be the time to install the cap. (Removal of the rear portion of the body will ease rear subframe install). 3. Using a torch, sawzall, or cut-off disc, remove: *Brake / fuel line mounts, proportioning valve mounts, and rear brake hose mount from inside of right frame rail. *Front bump stop brackets, shock towers, and front brake hose mounts from outside both frame rails. *The inboard leaf spring hangers can be removed, also. 4. Rear Subframe Installation: 1

2 Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3 * Level your frame front to back according to the center portion of the rails (in the vicinity of the transfer case). Level side to side according to the main cross member. See fig.1 *Measure 24 1/4 from the upper - outside end of each frame rail. This will determine your cut line, so measure and mark carefully. The cut line will end up just barely ahead of the stock bump stop. You could cut the bump stop off of your frame rail if it makes your layout easier. Draw your cut line down the outside square to the ground or frame rail. The original frame tapers out to the rear, your new subframe is parallel so connect your cut lines with a straight line (Across the top of the frame rails) instead of cutting square through the tube. See fig. 2 & 3. *Using a torch, sawzall, or cut-off disc, cut through the rail at the back side of your 24 1/4 cut line. Cut carefully because your line is your only reference. Refer to frame drawing on back page. Fig. 4 Fig. 5 Fig.6 Fig.7 *The forward cross member of the new rear subframe will over lap the ends of the original frame rails. Fit the sub frame in place and level front to back according to the center of the frame. Before tacking in place, remove all rust, paint, or undercoating in the area to be welded. Weld as shown. See fig. 4, 5, 6, Front Subframe installation: *Measure 8 1/8 from the end of each frame rail. This will determine your cut line so measure and mark carefully. This cut line will end up just ahead of the radiator stand brackets. Do NOT cut off these brackets. Draw your cut line square to the frame rail - not the ground, and straight across. See Fig 8 and refer to frame drawing on back page. *Using a torch, sawzall, or cut-off disc cut through the rail at the front side of your 8 1/8 cut line. Cut carefully because your line is your only reference. 2

3 Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Fig. 11 Fig. 12 Fig. 13 Fig. 14 *The outside gusset plates of the new front subframe will over lap the original frame rails. Fit the subframe in place and level front to back according to the center of the frame. Before tacking in place, remove all rust, paint, or undercoating in the area to be welded. Weld as shown. Refer to Figures 9 through 14 above. 6. Center Subframe Installation: **Note: Front and rear subframes are weld-in ONLY. Center subframe is intended to be bolt-in, however, if you prefer to weld the components to your frame, the choice is yours. *The center subframe is a bolt together assembly consisting of eight main components: 1 Drivers front control arm bracket 1 Passengers front control arm bracket 1 Drivers rear control arm bracket 1 Passengers rear control arm bracket 1 Front drop-out cross member 1 Rear drop-out cross member 2 Sliders 3

4 Fig. 15 Fig. 16 Fig. 17 Fig. 18 *Slide the two front control arm brackets (straight tube cross member spuds) over the frame rails. Refer to frame drawing on back page for location relative to front cab mount. Because the frames vary, the 5/8 dimension is just a reference. The brackets should fit tightly over the frame. You may smooth out the under coating in this area but complete removal will only be needed if you plan on welding your brackets. Notice there is one 3/8 thick, two-hole shim not welded at the top of the passenger side bracket. This shim is loose to aid installation over fuel and brake lines which will be reinstalled later. Shim should be in place for drilling. Using four 3/8-16x3 1/2 bolts with flat washers and nylocs, hang the front drop-out crossmember (with tabs) between the two control arm brackets. Leave loose for now. See Fig. 15. *Slide the rear control arm brackets (angled tube crossmember spuds) over the frame rails as shown in Fig.16 Refer to frame drawing for location relative to main crossmember. Because the frames vary, the 2 1/4 dimension is just a reference at this point. The brackets should fit tightly over the frame. You may smooth out the undercoating in this area but complete removal will only be needed if you plan on welding your brackets. Notice there are two 3/8 thick, 2-hole shims not welded at the top of the passenger side bracket. The shims are not welded to aid installation over fuel and brake lines which will be re-installed later. Shims should be in place for drilling. Using four 3/8-16x3 1/2 bolts with flat washers and nylocs, hang the rear drop-out crossmember (without tabs) between the two control arm brackets. Leave loose for now. *Now install the sliders on either side using a 9/16-18x4 bolt and nyloc at each end. You may need to adjust the control arm brackets for proper alignment. Leave bolts loose. Before drilling verify that all four control arm brackets are seated up against the bottom of the frame rails. (Both cross braces of each bracket should hit the bottom of the frame). See Figures 17 and 18. *Clamp the four control arm brackets in place. Transfer punch all 32 holes (inside and outside) or drill (using the control arm brackets as a guide) through the frame using a 25/64 drill bit. *Now remove all brackets and finish (paint, powdercoat, undercoat, etc) your frame and bracketry. 7. Front Axle Bracket Install: ** Requires 1979 to 1985 Toyota pickup complete front end. The factory anti-wrap bar bracket must be removed from the housing. The three small brackets for the steering stabilizer and sway bar should also be removed. ** DO NOT remove the factory leaf spring perches, shock mounts or steering stops!! 4

5 Fig. 19 Fig. 20 Fig. 21 Fig. 22 Fig. 23 Fit passenger side lower control arm bracket (with panhard bracket) up to the housing. Some grinding of the weld on the factory perch may be necessary for proper fit. Bracket should fit flat against and centered over perch and be square to the center line of the housing. Before tack welding in place, remove paint and scale in the area to be welded. Fit driver side in the same manner. Some housings have a short perch on the left side. The supplied 3/8 shim can be tacked to the perch to correctly locate the control arm bracket. See Figures 19 through 23 above. Fig. 24 Fig. 25 The upper control arm bracket sits level on top of the housing to the drivers side of the pumpkin. (It does sit to the passenger side of center) The cutout for the control arm points back. Before tack welding, remove paint and scale. See Figures 24 and 25 above. 5

6 Fig. 26 Fig. 27 Fig. 28 Weld brackets in place. The upper bracket should only be skip welded. See figures 26 through 28 above. Rear Axle ** Requires 1986 to 1995 Toyota pick-up complete rear end with 2 3/8 wide spring perches. The factory e-brake cable bracket and proportioning valve rod bracket could be removed. ** DO NOT remove the factory leaf spring perches or the brake hose / line tabs. Fig. 29 Fig. 30 Fit the drivers side lower control arm bracket up to the housing (shock stud points back and is closest to housing end). Some grinding of the weld on the factory perch may be necessary for proper fit. Bracket should fit flat against and centered over perch and be square to the center line of the housing. Before tacking in place, remove paint and scale in the area to be welded. Fit passenger side in the same manner. Before welding, verify that the shock studs point BACK and are closest to the housing ends. Fig. 31 Fig. 32 Fig. 33 Upper control arm bracket sits centered on top of the housing. Cutout for control arms points forward. Before tacking, remove paint and scale in the area to be welded. 6

7 Fig. 34 Fig. 35 Fig. 36 Fig Assembly *Before installing brackets on your frame you will want to reinstall fuel and brake lines. Your fuel return and vent lines will need to be modified to fit the new rear subframe & fuel tank. *Install the four control arm brackets on your frame using four 3/8-16x3 1/2 bolts with nylocs in each. Notice the passenger side brackets slide over the fuel/brake lines. This is why the upper spacers are not welded in place. Don t forget to install the spacers above the lines (one in the front bracket, two in the rear). Leave bolts loose for now. *Install front and rear drop-out crossmembers using four 3/8-16x3 1/2 bolts with nylocs and flat washers in each. Leave loose. *Install subframe sliders using two 9/16-18x4 bolt (Just slide the bolt through for alignment) Now tighten all 3/8 bolts; through frame bolts first, (torque to 40 ft lbs - do not over tighten), then the crossmembers next. Attach your proportioning valve to the tab on the passenger rear control arm bracket using your original bolt and supplied 6mm flange nuts. See Figures 38 through 40 below. Fig. 38 Fig. 39 Fig. 40 *Rear upper control arms are 1 1/4 diameter x 30 long, rear lowers are 1 3/8 diameter x 30 long. The upper control arms use the only four angled joints in the kit. Preset the center to center length to 34 5/8. The lowers use straight joints, preset to 35 1/2. Install the upper control arms into the upper pocket in the frame bracket using 9/16-18x4 bolts and nylocs. Install two 1/2 USS flatwashers under the heads of these bolts to avoid cramming the end of the bolt into the framerail. The other end fits into the upper control arm bracket on the rear end housing and uses one 9/16-18x7 bolt and nyloc. Notice the angled joints must be oriented the proper way. Install the lower control arms into the lower pocket using the previously installed 9/16-18x4 bolt and nyloc. The other end fits into the lower control arm bracket on the rear end housing using 9/16-18x4 bolts & nylocs. Notice these ends fit sloppy, you can insert one 1/2 USS flatwasher to take up this space now or you can wait until all final adjustments are made. Leave all cross bolts and jam nuts loose for now. See Figures 41 and 42 below. 7

8 Fig. 41 Fig. 42 *Front upper control arm is 1 1/4 diameter x 26 1/2 long, front lowers are 1 3/8 diameter x 26 1/2 long. All three use straight joints. Preset the upper to 31 center to center and the lowers to 32 1/4. NOTE: Preset lengths are only to get in the ballpark. Final adjustments will be made later. Install the upper control arm into the pocket in the front drop-out crossmember and the upper control arm bracket on the front axle housing using 9/16-18x4 bolts & nylocs. Install the lower control arms into the pockets in the front control arm brackets using the previously installed 9/16-18x4 bolts & nylocs. The other end fits into the lower control arm bracket on the front axle housing using 9/16-18x4 bolts & nylocs. Again, these ends fit sloppy. You can insert one 1/2 USS flatwasher to take up this space now or you can wait until all final adjustments are made. Leave all cross bolts and jam nuts loose for now. See figure 43 below. Fig. 43 Fig. 44 *Install the panhard bar (large tie rod ends in both ends) one end in the frame tab, one end in the axle tab. The nuts can be tightened and cotter pinned but leave the jam nuts loose. Preset to 32 1/8 center to center. See figure 44 above. *Install 150 lb. coil springs in the front and 125 lb. coil springs in the rear. Use one coil spring retainer and one 3/8-16x1 1/2 bolt & nyloc at each end of each spring. See Fig. 47. *Install the supplied shock stud through the mount on the rear subframe. Then install the shock (shaft down) first on the lower stud on the axle housing & 5/8-18 jam nyloc and flatwasher, and then the upper using shock stud hardware. The front shocks use 12mm-1.25x60mm long bolts & nylocs at each end. Before installing, you will need to press a steel sleeve into each end of the shocks, choose the one that best fits the 12mm bolt. There is only one per box so you will use leftovers from the rear shocks, too. Do NOT overtighten any of the shock fasteners and make sure all are installed shaft down. See Figures 45 and 46 below. 8

9 Fig. 45 (Front) Fig. 46 (Rear) Fig.47 *Install the brake hose mounting bracket in between the frame and distribution block and bolt hose mounting angle to the other end using original hardware. See Fig. 48. *Install the steering box using new 12mm-1.25 x 90 bolts & nylocs. Reconnect steering shaft by bolting the original steering shaft to our extended flanged steering joint using original hardware. Make sure the steering joints are in phase. See Fig. 49. *Original Toyota steering arms will be replaced with the supplied billet arms using Toyota hardware. Be sure the long arm is on the passenger side. Tie rod installs under the steering arms preset to 46. Drag link installs above arm, preset to 32 1/8, large end to arm and small end to pitman arm. If you have purchased our ram assist steering package, install the clamp over the tie rod before tightening tie rod ends. Otherwise, tighten all nuts and install cotter pins. Leave jam nuts loose. See Fig. 50. *Attach the front brake hose tabs to the small tab on the frame just behind the radiator mounts using original hardware. Install the supplied front brake hoses using original clips. See Fig. 51 Fig. 48 Fig.49 Fig.50 Fig. 51 Original front hard lines can be reformed to fit the new hose location. Rear brake hoses and hard lines have been supplied. Note: Early Samurai s use dual lines, late uses single. Use original clips. *The rear subframe is pre-drilled to accept a Sidekick/Tracker fuel tank from a 1989 to door. 10. Adjustments *After your new Trail Slayer prepped buggy is completely reassembled and set on tires on flat ground, final adjustments can be made. Use the panhard bar to center the front axle. Adjust the length of the rear upper control arms to center the rear axle. **Remember to take the load off of the coil springs & support the vehicle whenever a control arm is to be removed! Now align the front axle to the rear by taking parallel & cross measurements. Adjust the front control arm length to achieve 5 degrees castor angle. Adjust rear control arm lengths to achieve a pinion angle equivalent to the transfer case output. Set toe in front to 1/8 toe in. Adjust the drag link to center the steering box travel. Tighten all cross bolts and jam nuts! Make sure all of the joints are in phase when jam nuts are tightened. 9

10 10