Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Garbage Truck by Tom Daniel 1:24 Scale Revell Model Kit # Review

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1 Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review * Garbage Truck by Tom Daniel 1:24 Scale Revell Model Kit # Review Review and Photos by Alan Mann Most garbage trucks are bent, dirty and...full of garbage, but not Monogram's GARBAGE TRUCK! This zany and unusual Rod is a shiny custom machine with all the latest speed goodies plus all the equipment needed for a swinging beach party. The kit even includes a mod swinging trio complete with a Go-Go Girl vocalist! If you dig fun kits, you'll dig the GARBAGE TRUCK. It's The Boss! Monogram Models owes much of its success in the 1960s and 70s to the inspiring and creative designer Tom Daniel. Chances are you ve seen something that has been graced with the wild, distinctive TD touch. Anyone who built model kits during Daniel s time with Monogram, or read Hot Rod, Car Craft, or Rod & Custom, or watched The Munsters on television has seen his work. Daniel s designs have influenced several generations of model and full-scale hot-rod builders. Monogram was delighted by the success of the first kit design Tom produced and went on to commission him to create more than 75 other designs between 1968 and The name and idea for this one originated at Monogram, and I was called in to enhance the design and add snappy details like the lil' rock group, decals, etc. Left to my own devices, I probably never would have initiated a garbage truck. Tom Daniel s Quote. For the modeler: This review is based on the GARBAGE TRUCK by Tom Daniel Revell # model kit. This kit is Skill level 2 for intermediate builder and contains 57 parts. The kit is molded in White and Chrome and has Vinyl Tires. This kit has seen very few different box-art designs over the years but has had multiple re-issues and is a 100% Reissue (Re-Pop). The original kit was released in 1968 and has had

2 almost no changes in any releases after that. The copyright stamp on the chassis reads 1968 and the decals read 2014, so this is still based on the original molds. The buildup on this kit is 100% all exterior looks; there is no motor or detailed undercarriage. The suspension is basic. The cab is a multi-part unit and everything mounts to it aside from the seats. The trash body is also multi-piece and aside from the surfboards the accessories are molded in place. The mini band members are cool; you get a girl and two identical guy figures. The decals are new Revell quality and they replicate the originals that came in the kit. Overall dimensions of the finished build are: Length: 6-7/8", Width: 3-1/8", Height: 4-7/8". BUILDING CAVIATS: Having organization and a proper work area is important if you want to build a model properly. But even without dedicated space a place to leave your build while you work is necessary. Being able to lay out your parts organized helps the build as you are not digging for parts in the box possibly losing or damaging them. Also you really should have a place to let painted parts cure. One of the major benefits of using automotive paint is a very fast drying time. You can get just as good results using Spray can products but they require a longer drying time. Automotive paint is FULLY cured in less than an hour and clear about 6 hours. Use a good quality airbrush to paint automotive products because Lacquer Thinner will destroy the cheaper ones quickly. ****NOTE**** Throughout the review you will find OPTIONAL IDEAS that I suggest. These are completely your choice. Not doing these steps will in no way affect the build, they are just ways to offer some personal and custom touches to your builds. OPTIONS will be noted. Pic 1 shows the parts as they come from the box. Pic 2 (right) shows the box art for this kit as released in the Revell 2014 Garbage Truck re-issue version. Unless otherwise stated I use Testors Tube Glue (Orange Tube) for assembly of the parts. Other adhesives used in the construction are Superglue and Elmer s Clear School Glue. Paints consist of Testors Enamel bottle paints unless noted and Rattle can spray paints. The body is finished using 1:1 automotive use paint products shot with an airbrush. **Note: Assembly paint colors may vary from instructions as I use colors that most model builders should have on hand and compliment my build design. Before beginning your build soak and wash your parts with a mild detergent like DAWN to remove any mold release agents and help with paint adhesion. Pic 3 is the decal sheet that comes with this kit version. These are typical Revell decals and float easy with a nice smooth transfer. I do not use setting solution on my builds and it isn t needed with these decals. These are newly printed and dated 2014 but are replications of the originals.

3 Pic 4 is a shot of the front tire assembly. Pic 5 is a shot of the completed tires. For a more realistic look use 220 grit sandpaper and roll the tire while pressing on the sandpaper to give it a worn used look. Painting: Paint the wheel backs Flat Black with a Silver outer ring and Gold brakes. Assembly: The inside of the tire has an offset inner mount ring, assemble the front rim to the deeper side and the back rim to the thinner side. Pic 6 shows the parts needed for the front end assembly. Painting: Paint the front axle and tie rod Black. Paint the molded in motor with a Silver transmission and oil pan and the motor Red. Paint the rear chassis pan Silver and the front chassis pan Flat Black. Paint the frame rails Silver. ***NOTE PIC 7, PIC 8 and PIC 9 prior to painting!

4 Pic 7 is the copyright information that needs to be removed with a razor blade and sanded smooth prior to painting. Pic 8 and Pic 9 show the molding and release marks on the bottom of the chassis pan. To create a better finished look these need to be removed with a razor blade, Dremel tool or sandpaper prior to painting. EVERY RED ARROW DENOTES A PIN MARK THAT NEEDS REMOVED. Pic 10 is a shot of the finished front end assembly. Assembly: attach the ladder bars to the axle. Attach the tie rod to the axle. Attach that unit to the frame using the pins on the axle to line up in the holes in the frame. Attach the tire assemblies to the axle.

5 Pic 11 is a shot of the rear tire assembly. Pic 12 is a shot of the completed tires. For a more realistic look use 220 grit sandpaper and roll the tire while pressing on the sandpaper to give it a worn used look. Painting: Paint the wheel backs Flat Black with a Silver outer ring and Gold brakes. Assembly: The inside of the tire has a ring around the tire middle sidewall; assemble the front rim to the flat sidewall side and the back rim to the ringed sidewall side. Pic 13 is a shot of the rear suspension parts.

6 Pic 14 is an assembled rear end shot. Painting: paint the axle and driveshaft Black. Assembly: Attach the ladder bars to the frame in the holes provided. Attach the axle to the ladder bars. Attach the driveshaft to the axle and the transmission. Attach the tire assemblies to the axle. Glue the trash can gas tanks together and attach them to the pins on the frame. SEE Pic 15 for note on tanks. Pic 15 shows there is severe part line and attachment pin location damage. To properly finish this kit for a better look and contest quality you should assemble the tanks and strip the chrome to fill the part line and rechrome these parts.

7 Pic 16 is a completed shot of the chassis. Pic 17 is a rolling chassis shot showing the angle of the chassis tilted forward. Pic 18 is a shot of the cab parts to build the truck cab.

8 Pic 19 is a shot of the rear cab wall exterior. The part number is on the part itself. Remove this prior to paint work. Pic 20 shows the completed cab assembly. Prior to painting if you assemble the cab into a complete unit it will make it easier to paint and will cut the chances of damage to the finished paint later when you try and assemble it after your paint job. PIC 21 The cab and front end assemble leaving a part line on both sides. The finished build shows the cab as a one piece unit and this part line should be filled in and smoothed to remove it prior to painting.

9 PIC 22 Painting: Prepare the body and all parts that go Body color for Primer. Water sand the parts with 1000 grit sand paper and let them dry fully. Prime all parts inside and out. After the Primer dries water sand again and then paint the parts your choice of Body Color, Decal as you choose then Clear Coat. Pic 22 is a shot of the body in Primer ready to paint the color. PIC 23 I chose to use an Orange Pearl over a Silver Base for this build. As this is a Multi-Stage paint job I will explain it in detail. Pic 23 is a photo of the products I used in this paint job. After you Primer the whole car paint the BASE coat of your choice, for a Pearl I use Silver Pearl as a Base. After the paint has set and cured for about 15 minutes you can start the second color or Pearl coat. I use a powder pigment called Pearl Ex from Jacquard: It is available in many craft stores or hobby shops. To use it I mix my Clear Coat as usual and add some of the powder into the Clear. Mix it well and paint it on as usual building up the coats gradually to get the coverage you desire. More powder equals more pearl color, as well more coats means deeper pearl color.

10 PIC 24 is a shot of the Base Silver ready for the second color. Pic 25 is a shot of the Orange Pearl coat. Pic 26 is a shot of the completed cab assembly. Painting: Paint the grille Flat Black. Paint the breather vents Red. On the finished body paint the motor blower Silver with a Flat Black belt. Paint the Mirror faces Silver. Inside the cab paint the pedals Black. Assembly: Attach the breather face to the breather body and attach that to the top of the blower. Attach the side pipes to the notches in the body. Attach the horn to the roof slot. Attach the grill and bumper to the front of the cab.

11 Pic 27 is a shot of the interior pieces. Pic 28 is the installed interior. Painting: Paint the seats Flat Black and the Steering column Flat Black. Paint the shift knob Black. Paint the steering wheel rim Brown. Assembly: Attach the seats to the chassis pan. Attach the steering wheel to the column and attach that to the hole in the chassis pan. Attach the shifter tot the hole in the center console. NOTE: There are no dash details in this kit.

12 PIC 29 Attach the completed cab to the chassis now. Pic 29 is a finished shot. Pic 30 is a shot of the parts to assemble the trash box.

13 Pic 31 there is a sticker on the inside of the side panel that needs removed prior to finishing. PIC 32 To ease in assembly and to lower the chance of damage later I have partially assembled the trash box. Assemble the sides and back panel with the top panel. You can now prime and paint this as a unit. See Pic 32. The rear door and floor will be painted as separate units and assembled during final assembly of the unit. PIC 33 Painting: Prepare the body and all parts that go Body color for Primer. Water sand the parts with 1000 grit sand paper and let them dry fully. Prime all parts inside and out. After the Primer dries water sand again and then paint the parts your choice of Body Color, see Pic 33.

14 Pic 34 shows the decals in progress. Body Decaling and Finishing: After you have your base coat on the car you are ready to decal it. Remember decals lay better on a GLOSS surface and will not adhere properly on a FLAT surface. If you decal a flat surface you get what is called SILVERING of the decals, or the look that they are not adhered, as air is trapped under the decal. Clean your work area good so no dust or grunge from building and sanding gets under your decals. Pick the decals you want to work with and plan out how the best way to lay them out without handling previously laid decals will be. I try either a Front to Back or Top to Bottom approach doing one side at a time then the front and rear of the car in steps giving the decals time to set and dry in place before handling it again. Once you have a plan of action cut your first decal as close to the edge of the outermost color as possible. Once trimmed place the decal into warm water and let it get soft until it Floats loosely on the carrier paper. Put a little water on the spot of the car you want to transfer the decal on to and carefully float the decal off the carrier paper onto the car. Using tweezers and a Q-tip position the decal in to place where it will be located when finished. Now with a small part of paper towel carefully extract the water from the area by lightly dabbing around the decal and then on top of the decal. Using a moist paper towel and or moist Q-tip you can smooth out and air bubbles and wrinkles from the center of the decal out to the edges. Now continue this process until all the decals for that area are done, wait for them to set and continue the rest of the car. ** NOTE** INSTRUCTIONS ERROR: There is a rail inside the trash box side panels. The instructions show the floor being installed flat in the chassis at the base of the trash box front area. The floor should actually sit in the rail.

15 PIC 36 When assembled and installed on the chassis as seen in the floor will actually be able to move front to back so you can mount the band and still close the rear door by sliding the floor forward. Nowhere in the instructions is this feature explained. Pic 37 is a finished shot of the trash box installed. Painting: Assemble the tanks for the front of the box and paint them Black with Silver mounts and valves. Install into the hole in the front panel. Paint the flippers the color of your choice, I picked Yellow. Paint the helmets the color of your choice; I used Blue, Black and Red.

16 PIC 38 Assembly: attach the box on to the chassis with the floor sandwiched in the rails so it is able to move. Shown here are the notches that the rear door sits in. This is NOT GLUED in place. Once the box is assembled and glued in place the door will sit in the notches and you can open or close it easily. Pic 39 shows a front shot of the finished truck.

17 Pic 40 (left) is a shot of the rear with the closed door. Pic 41 (right) is a shot of the door open. Pic 42 Are the surfboards pieces that need to be installed on the box. Although the box art photos show these as finished doublesided the actual parts are single sided. Also the decals are only for the front sides none are supplied for the back. To have dual sided boards you must paint your boards by hand to match the decals. Based on the basic research I did most surfboards are only designed on one side with a solid color on the bottom. I chose this as my reference and did a single side design with solid bottom. Pic 43 9right) is the completed and assembled surfboard group. Paint the boards the color of your choice; I did mine Blue and Red. Decal and Clear the boards. Install into the roof mount and glue in place on the sides.

18 Pic 44 is a shot of the hip and groovy band, ready for some color! I will use Water Based Craft Paints to detail these with to give a better look and less gloss. Pic 45 is the assembled band in the truck. Paint the figures the colors of your choice. Using craft paint you can get Flesh tone paint for a more realistic look. PIC 46 There were no parts leftover in this build.

19 Overall Impressions: I have to admit when I opened this kit I sort of cringed. No motor, simplistic build, corny show rod. But I am sold on it! The assembly was nice. Parts went in place as they should with no fuss. This feels like a snap kit that has been advanced to glue status. And it falls in the Skill Level 2 range easily as not all parts have positive attachment points. Most of all this kit was FUN to build. It goes together smoothly and before you know it you are done. No doubt Tom Daniel is the best at cool model kits and even if he said this was not his idea originally it does leave a positive mark on his branding. One minor issue with the instruction sheet will cause beginners a little stress but if you test fit and pay attention to your building it is easily fixed. Overall on a scale of 1 to 10 I would give this one a solid 8. It is a bit simplistic but it makes up for it in the fact the finished build just really looks COOL!