Hydro Generator & Bubbler installation

Transcription

1 Installation Manual for Hydro complete Kit from Hydro Tuning LLC Before we start, we would like to thank you again for your trust in our products. We are striving for your best hydro conversion experience and appreciate your feedback. We send out surveys to randomly selected customers. Please look out for this , you will get the chance to win $500 dollars. Good luck and thank you for your feedback. Attention: make sure to report the miles per gallon (mpg) BEFORE installing the hydro system, so you can actually compare. There for, fill up the gas tank to the neck and drive a set route. The route should start and end at the same gas station for exact records. Do this three times for a better average reading. Do the same route, three times, same manner AFTER the hydro system is installed for comparison. Installation Steps: 1) Hydro Generator & Bubbler (Water reservoir) installation 2) Hydro System installation 3) Sensor adjuster installation (chip and super EFIE) 4) First Starting up the System 5) Trouble Shooting 6) Fine Tuning 7) Maintenance 1) Hydro Generator & Bubbler installation First let's look at the Hydro Generator. It should be mounted in upright position (mounting brackets at the lower side of the generator, nozzles facing upward). In most cases we install the generators in upright hanging position and secure them with thick cable zip ties. This way there must be no holes drilled to install them, what most people prefer. If you like to install your HHO generators more secure and permanently we recommend to use plumbers tape. You find plumbers tape in any hardware stores. Look for a lower spot in your vehicle to position your hydro generator. It needs to sit about 1-3feet lower than the bubbler, so the gravity can feed the generator with water from the bubbler. In most cases you will find a spot underneath the radiator, or right behind at the lower end of the radiator, or in front of it. Some newer vehicles have plastic covers everywhere what makes it pretty inaccessible to in stall anything. Those plastic covers can be removed and in most cases you will find lots of space behind. Also, a good spot is behind the front bumper. You wouldn't believe how much room there is. As all cars are build differently, there is not a general spot where it should be placed. The most

2 important part is to mount it between 1-3 feet lower than the bubbler and if possible at a spot where no dirt will hit the hydro generator. Try to keep it free from dirt and flying rocks so it will not get damaged. Also, try to mount it not too low, so it will not drag on the ground. It should not be lower that the under carriage of the vehicle, so it could not be seen hanging down. If you mount the hydro generator(s) exposed and not behind anything, you should try to cover them up with something simple. Everything between a dirt shield and a plastic back will work to keep it free from dirt and rocks. If you live in an area where the roads flood a lot and you HAVE to go through high waters with your vehicle and the hydro generators would be drowned, don't worry too much. Just switch off the system and turn it back on after you ensured the hydro generators are not drowned anymore. If you had no time to switch off the system and you drowned the hydro generators, the fuse might blow and you need to replace the fuse. Other than that, it's fine. When you mount the hydro generator, make sure you still have space to connect the back hoses and tighten the hoses with the stainless steel hose clamps. We know that the hoses will in most cases not go straight up towards the bubbler. They will most likely will be arranged around corners and other objects, which is okay. Just make sure between the hydro generator and the bubbler is gravity and the water can enter the hydro generator this way. Connecting the Hose to the Generators You see on our newest hho generator design a total of 4 nozzles. The two lower, angled ones on each side need to be connected with each other using the Y connector. The two upper, straight upright facing nozzles need to be connected with each other using a Y connector as well. The lower nozzles are the inlets, where the water is entering the generator. The upper nozzles are the outlets, where the gas escapes towards the bubbler. It doesn't matter where the Y connectors are located, either closer to the gas generator, or closer to the bubbler. This way you can find the right spot, depending on your vehicle and location of the gas generator. Example of hose connection, close to the gas generator: Now, after you secured the hydro generator, it is time to find the right spot for the bubbler, somewhere inside the engine compartment. Try to keep the bubbler away from direct contact or heat from the engine. We also know that it is getting hot anyways inside the engine compartment, but still, you don't want to be too close the the engine with the bubbler. If possible, you will find spots next to the battery,

3 the air filter compartment, or next to the radiator, or even in front of the radiator. Make sure you secure the bubbler so it will not dangle around or get in contact with moving parts like the belt system of your vehicle etc. You can also secure the bubbler with zip ties to avoid an difficult installation with metal angles etc. Remember, the bubbler must be about 1 to 3 feet higher than the gas generator to gravity feed the gas generator with water (see schematic): Now connect the bubbler with the hydro generator by using the black rubber hose. This hose is a specially made hho hose what is resistant to lye and alcohol (being used in freezing temperatures to avoid freezing of the system). DO NOT use any other hose for the connection. Most other hoses, like clear garden hoses, will dry out while using electrolytes and the result can be that the rubber hose will start to get bridle and will eventually leak. ALWAYS avoid the spill of electrolyte. Even though sodium sulfate is safe, you should avoid skin contact. Wash up the parts the electrolyte got spilled on. Make sure to secure the hoses with stainless steel hose clamps, so they don't leak. Now use some cable zip ties to secure the hose from not going into the vehicles radiator fan, belt, or other moving objects. Also, keep the hose away from exhaust parts of the engine. Make sure it is not rubbing against sharp metal parts or objects to avoid damaging the hose. Done with the first step.

4 2)System Installation Now it's time to hook up your hho system to power. In most cases we have already preinstalled/connected the relay, fuse and cables for you! Skip this step if you received a preinstalled kit and see # 2)b) further down. Otherwise, Start by taking the fuse holder and cut the red cable pretty much in the middle to have two ends (no ring anymore). Take off about a quarter inch from the insulation to expose the cable. Now take one of the yellow ring terminal connectors and push the cable though it. Than take pliers or a crimp tool to squeeze the yellow part of the ring connector so the cable doesn't come off. This end you will hook up later to the vehicles plus pole of the battery. But wait until you are done with the rest to avoid a short. Keep the fuse holder close to the battery and crimp one yellow flat female connector onto the other end of the red cable, don't forget to take off about one quarter inch of off the insulation. Now push the cable through the yellow flat female connector and use again pliers or a crimp tool to squeeze the yellow prat, so the cable doesn't come loose. This end you connect to the black relay, on terminal #30. Now take the thick long red wire (10gauge) and again take off a small part of the insulation. Here you connect the same way one yellow flat connector. This one you attach to relay terminal #87. Now install the red cable towards the hydro generators red wing nut. Make sure the cable stays away from moving parts, or hot parts of the engine. Secure the cable again with cable zip ties. After ensuring the right length of the red cable, cut it and connect one small yellow ring terminal connector to it. This will be connected on the hydro generator by detaching the red wing nut from the hydro generator, place the ring terminal over the screw and secure it again with the red wing nut. Make sure the cable is not dangling anywhere but is nicely fastened with zip ties. The same procedure you follow with the black ground cable, but this time connect one end at the minus terminal of the vehicles battery and the black wing nut of the hydro generator. Toggle Switch connection: Now find a good spot for the main switch inside the passenger compartment. Drill a hole in the dash, wherever you like to have the switch mounted. Make sure you will not hit the switch with your knee or by other mistakes. Now find a plus wire underneath the dash board, what is hot just when the ignition is turned in ON position. Take the thinner red cable and connect one of the blue flat female connectors on one end of the cable. Connect this end with the outer upper terminal of the witch, what is silver, not the almost golden looking one. Follow the cable now towards the under dash cable what is hot when ignition is turned ON. Use one of the blue thief connectors to attach both cables with each other. You must line the ignition cable on the outer part of the thief connector and the red cable from the switch you need to cut to the right length and insert it into the left opening of the thief connector. When both cables are in place, take your pliers and push down the metal crimp, so both cables are connected through it. When the metal crimp is in place, you will be able to close the remaining blue cover completely. Done.

5 Now take the black thin cable and attach again one of the blue flat female connectors at one end. This end you connect to the middle terminal of the switch. Now find a good ground under neath the dash for this connection. In most cases you will find a present ground connection in place already and one of the side walls underneath the dash. Simply take off the screw and attach the black thin cable coming from the switch here. You must like always, take some of the insulation off the cable and connect one of the yellow ring terminal connectors at the end of it. Squeeze it tight with your pliers or crimp tool. Now attach the screw with the ring terminals again on it's place. Now take the remaining thin red cable and again connect one end with a blue flat female connector and attach this end at the middle terminal of the switch. Lead the other end of the cable through the firewall of the vehicle inside the engine compartment and connect it with the relay terminal #85. Take a blue flat female connector for this connection. I guess now we don't have to repeat to take the insulation off and squeeze it etc? Next, you take the remaining black thin cable and connect the relay terminal #86 with ground. Probably you will find an existing ground connection somewhere at the walls for a different circuit. You can use the same ground port, so you don't have to drill another hole in the wall. Okay.. Now remember the very first connection? We connected a yellow ring terminal connector at the fuse holder. You can now take one of the nuts off the plus terminal of the battery to connect the fuse holder to the battery. Fasten the nut after placing the fuse holder on the terminal. Make sure the fuse is in place. Take a 25A fuse, or a fuse breaker. Now your system is hooked up. Step 2)b) Pre-Wired system

6 Find a good location for the switch inside the passenger compartment, most likely on the dash board. Drill a hole for the switch and insert it from inside the dash. Then mount the nut and cover from the outside, this way the switch is secured. Now connect the black wire with the blue ring connector on ground of the vehicle. Underneath the dash you will find enough metal connections for this. Now find a connection which is hot when the engine is actually running. The best way: find the injector relay in the fuse box. Remember you MUST connect the system this way, so it is not running while the car is off. Again: connect this cable to a source which is ON (hot) when engine runs. For instance the ignition relay, or find a fuse which is hot when engine runs. To connect this cable with the source you simply use the blue thief connector (also called splice connector ): Now take the remaining red cable and pull it through the firewall of your vehicle. The firewall is the main wall which separates the engine compartment from the passenger compartment. In most cases you will find a rubber garment protecting cables going through the firewall already. You can simply direct the red wire through the same hole into the engine compartment. This red wire you must connect now to the relay at the opposite side then the thin black wire (ground connection). See here how to connect the relay:

7 As you can see, the thick red cable will be connected at the red (left) terminal of the gas generator. Now you can connect the black thick cable at the black (right) terminal of the gas generator. The other end of the thick black cable you will connect at the battery minus terminal of the car. Note: if you have purchased the kit, with the CCPWM, you must connect the black thick cable coming from the gas generator, to the load terminal of the PWM. Then from the ground terminal of the PWM to the car battery minus terminal. In order to find those terminals of the PWM you must open the lid of the device. (we have installation manual included to the PWM product, or you can download the pdf from the members section of our website for more help). Also, you will see a connection inside the PWM, on the board which says 12V + this needs to be connected to the wire coming from the switch to the relay (turning ON the relay/hot when system is running). Optional Control Box: The next step explains how to hook up a hydro system with our optional control box. This is slightly different and can be skipped, if you didn't purchase the control box. Hooking up a hydro system with control box: Since the control box includes the relays etc. pre-wired there is not that much to do. This could be done in a few minutes. After installing the hydro generator & bubbler as outlined above, now you do the following. Find a good dry spot inside the engine compartment to place the hydro control box inside the engine compartment. In most cases you will find a good spot at the relay and fuse box of the vehicle. Sometimes also close to the battery, or air intake would be okay too. Now start with the thin black cable coming out of the black box. There is a yellow ring terminal attached already. Connect this terminal with a good ground port. You will most likely find an existing ground terminal somewhere at the walls from a different device. Simply unscrew this terminal and attach the new ring terminal as well. Now put the screw back in place and fasten it. Next, take the thin red cable what is marked ignition and attach it with a cable (or fuse from the fuse box) what is just hot when the ignition is in ON position. Use one of the blue thief connector to connect both with each other. Now take the yellow cable and attach it to the yellow cable extension (male to female connection) the other end of the yellow cable extension please attach with the bubbler cable. The remaining bubbler cable has a ring terminal. Connect this to ground. Now measure the thick (10Gauge) cable length between the hydro generators red wing nut and the red 10gauage cable coming from the black hydro box. Take off some of the insulation of both ends and connect the red 10gauge cable from the black box with the measured red cable by using one of the pipe looking yellow cable connectors. You must squeeze the yellow cable connector on both ends to secure the connection of both cables with each other.

8 Now follow the red 10gauge cable through the engine compartment towards the hydro generators red wing nut. Now take the black 10 gauge cable and connect it with the yellow ring terminal connector the at black wing nut of the hydrogen generator. Cut the black wire wherever you find a good ground source, attach one of the yellow ring terminal connectors and fasten it with a screw to make it a good ground. Now measure the red 10 gauge cable between the plus terminal of the battery towards the second red 10 gauge cable coming out of the black hydro box, cut the wire in this length and attach the yellow ring terminal connector and fasten it with a screw at the battery plus terminal. The other end, you attach again the yellow pipe looking connector so that both cables are connected securely. In most cases, you have one more thin red wire coming out of the black box, that cable is a remote cable for your EFIE or whatever you would like to have turn on when on the hydro system is turned on. Now last but not least, you have to connect the smaller control box what will sit inside the passenger compartment with the blue cable. Find a good place in the firewall that is the wall what divides passenger compartment from engine compartment. You will find some black rubber holes in the wall, these rubber covers are easy to cut and to push the black cable through. Follow the blue cable through the dashboard wherever you want to place the control box. Now connect the blue cable to each box and secure the connector by lifting up the clear plastic handle above the blue rubber nose. Now congratulations, you have successfully hooked up the hardware. 3)Sensor Adjuster Installation Installing the electronics If you have purchased the kit for injector vehicles, you received a EFIE device. This is either a blue plastic box (chip, programmed to your vehicle specs) or you have a PCB board with adjusters. See pictures: Chip with specific program for your vehicle: please see booklet for installation of the Chip and SKIP the single sensor connection below! Your next step is the o2 sensor extender installation.

9 super EFIE (PCB board): Installation of the super EFIE: (if you don't have the chip) 12V+ = connect to power source HOT / ON when engine runs Ground = connect to battery minus, or ground of vehicle ECU = connect the remaining MAF/MAP sensor cable to the ECU MAF/MAP = connect to MAP/MAF sensor O2 In = connect cable coming from o2 sensor O2 Out = connect cable continuing to ECU You will need a Multi Meter (Voltmeter) to perform this step. See example: The picture shows our recommend Multi Volt Clamp Amp Meter, about 100 dollars at Frys electronics, or similar models online available. Please see further below for more details on the super EFIE installation.

10 MAF sensor connection: The signal wire will have volt readings between 0-5V (this is what you need to cut, like pic above). The ground wire will have NO reading. The supply wire will have constant 12V+ If your vehicle is equipped with any kind of sensors that the ECU utilizes to calculate the air fuel ratio then you have to adjust those sensors (if your not sure about the sensors, we will help you in this paragraph to locate them and see the sensor type, you can skip this step if you already know this information) Help for sensors, all Sensor types and Location Air intake- locate the air filter box and follow the air intake towards the throttle body. The sensors we are looking for are the MAF (mass airflow sensor) and IAT (intake air temperature) sensors. If your vehicle this equipped with one of these sensors, you will find cables coming out of the tube that leads the air from the air filter to the throttle body. Those cables, you need to count. If you count 2 cables, you have an IAT sensor and if you count 3 cables, you have a MAF sensor and if you count more than 3 cables then you have both sensors in one. IAT- (Air Intake Temperature Sensor) (If you have the IAT but not the MAF, you will later have to look out to find the MAP sensor) Since the IAT has just 2 cables, at this sensor you don't need to look out for polarity, you simply take 2 blue thief connectors and connect 2 thin wires (We recommend gauge), cut the wires in the proper length to reach the EFIE device. Connect the 2 wires by taking off some of the insulation at the

11 end of the wire, put the wire into the 2 IAT terminals and fasten the screws. Again polarity is not important. MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) The MAF sensor has 3 wires, you need to find the signal wire. Take a multimeter with needle probes (needle probes give you the ability to poke through the insulation to get a test for your multimeter.) Put the black needle probe onto vehicles ground and take the red needle probe to get your measurements. Now start the engine and let it run in idle. Now poke one of the 3 wires, if you see zero voltage on the multimeter you found the ground wire. Leave this alone, you don't need it. If you found a constant voltage of 1,3 or 5 volts that is not the signal wire, leave this alone you don't need it. If you find a milli-voltage below 1000 or below 1 volt and this voltage changes the value when you rev up the engine, you found the signal wire. This wire needs to be cut and you need to remove some of the insulation of both ends. Now take that wire, what comes out of the sensor and connect it to a gauge cable. Use one of the blue pipe looking connectors, don't forget to crimp the blue connector on both ends to secure the cable connection. Now follow the cable until it reaches the EFIE device wherever you place it and cut the wire at the right length. Take some of the insulation off at the end and connect it to the EFIE's port where it says 'MAF in'. Now repeat the same thing with the other wire that you cut off of the sensor. This wire needs to be connected to the 'MAF out' terminal of the EFIE device. MAP (Mass Absolute Pressure Sensor) Some vehicles also are equipped with a MAP sensor (mass absolute pressure), this device reads the pressure in the air intake. There are 2 locations where you can find the MAP sensor, either at the throttle body or mounted separately on the fire wall, however it has 3 cables and you have to find the signal cable of it. This is done the same way as explained with the MAFsensor. ATTENTION IN RARE CASES SOME VEHICLES HAVE A MAF OR MAP SENSOR THAT IS NOT BASED ON MILLIVOLTS BUT ON FREQUENCY. Those sensors you need to adjust with an EFIE that works on frequency basis, some of our EFIE devices can be rearranged to work on frequency. To find out if your MAF or MAP sensor is based on frequency, attach your milli-volt multimeter to the signal wire and rev the engine to 2000, if the voltage doesn't change much then you most likely have a frequency based sensor. If you are still unsure, go to your local car mechanic or auto zone, they will be happy to help you with your questions. Now we come to the oxygen sensors/lambda Go underneath your vehicle and look at the exhaust pipe already coming out of the cylinder head of your engine (headers). See if you can find any electrical cables coming out of the exhaust pipe after the headers in most cases there will be the exhaust pipe going from 2 to 1 pipe. The catalytic converter is usually found in the middle of the bottom of the vehicle if equipped. The catalytic converter is wider than the other parts of the exhaust pipe, if you have difficulties to locate the catalytic converter, again ask your car mechanic or auto zone. Looking from the flow of the exhaust, starting from the headers through the entire exhaust pipe to the end of the exhaust where the fumes come out everything before the catalytic converter is called upstream and everything after the catalytic converter is called downstream. Some vehicles have o2 sensors upstream and some vehicles have both upstream and downstream. If you have a larger engine (6 or more cylinders) you will most likely find 2 exhaust pipes parallel underneath your vehicle. In this case, you also have a 2nd catalytic converter with either 1 upstream o2 sensor or both upstream and downstream. To get the best fuel mileage, you have to adjust the front o2 sensors. Make sure the EFIE device can cover the total amount of 2 o2 sensors. In this case

12 we strongly recommend our super EFIE. This device comes within the advanced and pro kit. ATTENTION: THERE ARE 2 DIFFERENT TYPES OF O2 SENSORS, NARROW BAND AND WIDE BAND. MOST COMMONLY IS THE NARROW BAND SENSOR WHAT WE ARE COVERING HERE. Narrow band o2 sensor The narrow band o2 sensors can be found with up to 7 cables. It is important for you to find again the signal wire. Take again your multimeter and put the black test probe to ground and use the red needle probe to poke each cable separately. Now turn on the engine and test probe all wires, the ones with zero milli-volts, mark them and put them to the side, you don't need them. The ones with a voltage up to 5 volts constantly are the source wire and you don't need it, put it to the side. The remaining wires you have to test under three different circumstances, once with a cold engine, once after five minutes of engine running and once while somebody else is revving up the engine to you are looking for that wire what changes the milli-volts rapidly under all 3 circumstances, that is the signal wire. Now you have found that wire, follow that wire up into the engine compartment as close to the board computer as possible and wherever you find a good dry place, you cut that wire and take some of the insulation off of both ends. Now again take two gauge wires and extend those sensor wires by connecting the two new wires with a blue pipe looking cable connector. Don't forget to crimp both ends of the cable connector to secure the wires. These two new cables must be now connected with an EFIE device. The cable that is coming from the o2 sensor needs to be connected to the in port of the EFIE device and the other cable that leads towards the computer must be connected to the OUT port of the EFIE device. If you have more than one o2 sensor, you must divide between upstream and downstream o2 sensors. At our super EFIE, you can see the ports O2 IN, O2 OUT. You solely do this with the upstream o2 sensors. Not the o2 sensors after the catalytic converter. The super EFIE doesn't need to be adjusted, since the settings are pre-adjusted. O2 Sensor Extender installation: Now take the o2 sensor extender. See pic below: Install the o2 sensor extender solely on the front (before cat) o2 sensor(s).

13 Important: You need to install the o2 sensor extender anyways, if you have the super EFIE or the Chip! Next step Gas Hose Connection: Now, you need to hook up the gas hose between the bubbler outlet and the air intake of the vehicle. You have received enough black gas hose for this connection. It's easy, but you must do it exactly this way, do not take a short cut. Find a spot in the air intake as close as possible towards the engine. Take the gas hose connector (it's in the clear plastic bag with the sticker). This barb connector needs to be insert on the LOWER part of the air intake, and as close as possible to the engine. Why the gas has to be insert from the lower part of the air intake tube? Because hydrogen gas is the lightest gas on earth and travels upward with high speed. That way it needs to be introduced from the lower end, so it has a chance to travel in the middle of the air intake. If you would introduce it from the upper part, the gas would simply travel just on the upper part of the air intake into the engine. This way it would not mix much with the air entering the engine. You can simply drill a smaller hole into the air intake (remember lower part) this way the barb has a tight fit. The other end of the barb you will connect with the gas hose coming from the upper outlet of the bubbler. Don't forget to place the water trap after the water tank (bubbler) at the lowest point of the gas hose. The part of the water trap which looks like a tap needs to face to the ground. The Y will be at the gas hose. The white check valve has to be connected towards the bubbler with hose and clamps. The other end of the Y connection will lead to the air intake of the vehicle. 4)First Starting up the System When you are done with the installation, then let's go the next step. DO NOT SMOKE and DO NOT HAVE AN OPEN FLAME DURING THIS PROCESS!! You need to get 2 one gallon canisters distilled water. Label one of them with the markings attention: sodium sulfate. The other one does not need to be marked. Now take the marked gallon distilled water and dump out one glass (about 12oz.) to make some room in the canister. Now pour into the marked canister about two tee spoons sodium sulfate and close the lid on the sodium sulfate bottle and the gallon canister. Start mixing well the sodium sulfate marked canister. Shake well, until you see the water is clear, not milky anymore. Now fill this pre-mix into the bubbler of the hydro system. Make sure you don't fill much into the bubbler. Leave some room for later. Just fill about ¼ of the bubbler and start the engine. You should see now bubbles coming up inside the bubbler. This is high explosive hydrogen gas. The system is working now.

14 Take now the clamp amp meter (if you don't have the pro kit) and put the red thick cable going to the gas generator into the clamp pf the meter. Set the dial on the clamp amp meter to 40A reading. It should show now a amp reading in it's display. If you have a pro kit, you have an amp meter build in at the PWM. Here a table (over the thump rule, to start with): if your car is a 2Liter engine, your goal is to read about 20A on the meter 3Liter engine, about 30A 4Liter engine, about 40A and so forth. This is just a rule of thump. It can be somewhat lower or higher. As higher the amps as more HHO gas is produced. You can now adjust the amps by concentrating or diluting the mixture. Concentrating, increasing the amps: if the amps are too low, simply pour 1 tee spoon sodium sulfate directly into the bubbler while the system is running. After about 15minutes measure the amps and adjust accordingly. Lowering the amps: if the amps are too high, simply pour pure distilled water (without any sodium sulfate) into the bubbler to dilute the mixture. After 15 Minutes check the amps again and adjust accordingly. Now the system is running. If you have a chip ( advanced and pro version), you must reset and calibrate the chip. Please see booklet included in the chip box for instructions. Please allow about 100 miles for the chip to adjust the ECU completely (in rare cases). 5)Trouble Shooting a) the system doesn't turn ON when the engine is running check the cable connection to the switch, relay and dry cell. See the pictures of the connection again and compare. Make sure the switch gets power when the engine runs and the relay gets power when the switch is triggert. Check the fuse, it might be blown. Exchange the fuse to a higher rating one (40A for instance) are you sure you have mixed the electrolyte into the distilled water BEFORE filling up the system with it? If you pour distilled water into the bubbler on the first fill up NOT using electrolyte, the water will not have any conductors (electrolyte) in the mixture and the system will not run. If this happened, you must release the water from the system and refill it with electrolyte contained water. b) the amps are not sturdy, they jump up and down per second at the beginning this is perfectly normal, the system might still have pockets of air between the

15 plates. This will be worked out slowly by driving a few miles. If the reading is within 5A up and down, this is actually still okay and nothing to worry about c) if you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to call, or skype. We are here to help. One more good news, just in case you didn't know yet: From now on, when you are running your car on HHO gas, you can get the 87octan fuel, it's cheaper then the other stuff. The HHO gas is increasing the octane to about 100octane, which is really good for your engine. There for it is okay to buy the 87 gasoline from now on. You will save a few bucks as well. 6)Fine Tuning there is a way to fine tune your system for even more mpg. You can slightly increase the HHO production by increasing the amps (see above how to do that). Don't get ahead of yourself here, just increase in 5A steps and drive at least 100 miles and write down the fuel mileage (mpg). Repeat this procedure until you see the car is not increasing in mpg any further. Here a very valid tip from our master mechanic: It is a known fact that cold air intake and pre-heated fuel increases the fuel mileage, especially when using HHO gas. Fuel is naturally very cold, so when it is warmed up, the strong chains of hydrocarbons will break up and it will be easier for the HHO gas to combine with the carbonhybrids. If you are mechanically inclined, you can extend the fuel line towards the ari filter. Loop the fuel line inside the air cleaner box. This way the passing air will be cooled off by the cold fuel line. Now redirect the fuel line after the air cleaner box in a few loops around the upper radiator hose and then back to it's starting point. Reconnect the fuel line there. Now you have a cooler air intake and also the fuel is getting pre-heated by the cars radiator hose. Please don't do those steps if you don't have a mechanic background or if you don't know exaclt whay to do. Find a car mechanic or one of our certified installers to help you. Thanks. 7)Maintenance actually there is not much maintenance to do. Just check periodically the water level. Winter, freezing temperatures: Please be aware that your system contains water, which fill freeze in winter temperature. When the water in the system will be frozen, it simply will not work anymore. You can either wrap the dry cell, bubbler and hoses in insulation wrap and/or release the water mixture to exchange the mixture with a solution for winter months. The winter months solution is alcohol with KOH as electrolyte. Yes, KOH is mixable with alcohol (not

16 sodium sulfate). This will prevent a freezing for up to -50C. Don't worry, even though KOH is caustic, there will not be a discharge of hexavalent chromium with our full titanium dry cell (gas generator). In spring time simply release the KOH/alcohol mixture into a bucket and mix this with white vinegar to get it ph neutral. Now it will be safe to dump it. Refill then the system with the distilled water/ sodium sulfate mix. We hope your fuel saving are enormous and you have fun doing it. Please see also the installation videos on our youtube channel for more illustrated view, or call us for support. We are here to help. Your Hydro Tuning LLC Team