INSTRUCTION MANUAL .46 EP ARF TOWER HOBBIES WING AREA WINGSPAN POWER LENGTH WEIGHT WING LOADING RADIO

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1 .46 EP ARF WARRANTY Tower Hobbies guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Tower Hobbies liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Tower Hobbies reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice. WINGSPAN 47.6 in [1210mm] In that Tower Hobbies has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. INSTRUCTION MANUAL LENGTH 48.1 in [1222mm] WING AREA in 2 [40.7 dm 2 ] WEIGHT lbs [ g] WING LOADING oz/ft 2 [51 52 g/dm 2 ] If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase. To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below: Hobby Services 3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1 Champaign IL USA Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible. POWER Glow:.46 cu.in. 2-stroke Electric: 1.70 in [42mm] diameter, 925 W, Hitec Energy Sport 80 ESC RADIO 4 5 channels READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL. TOWER HOBBIES Champaign, Illinois (217) ext. 6 airsupport@hobbico.com 2017 Tower Hobbies. A subsidiary of Hobbico, Inc. TOWA2040 v1.1

2 TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED Radio/Servos Glow Engine Brushless Electric Motor LiPo Battery Charger Adhesives, Hardware & Other Accessories KIT INSPECTION PARTS LIST KIT CONTENTS PREPARATION ASSEMBLE THE WING Hinge the Ailerons Hook Up the Ailerons ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE Prepare the Fuselage for the Stab & Fin Glue in the Horizontal & Vertical Stabilizers Install the Receiver Battery Attach the Elevator and Rudder Hook Up the Elevator and Rudder INSTALL THE POWER SYSTEM Mount the Brushless Motor Mount the Glow Engine Hook Up the Throttle Install the Fuel Tank Final Radio Installation FINAL ASSEMBLY Mount the Main Landing Gear Mount the Tail Gear Mount the Canopy Attach the Side-Force Generators Apply the Decals PREPARE THE MODEL FOR FLIGHT Set the Control Throws Check the C.G Balance the Model Laterally PREFLIGHT Engine/Motor Safety Precautions Battery Precautions Range Check AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts) General Radio Control FLYING INTRODUCTION Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Tower Hobbies Uproar V2 ARF. The Uproar V2 is an exciting, updated version of the original Uproar ARF. If you re a casual sport pilot, the Uproar V2 can be tamed simply by switching to normal or low-rate control throws. Then it becomes a docile every day sport flyer. For the latest technical updates or manual corrections, find the Uproar V2 ARF on the Tower Hobbies web site at www. towerhobbies.com. If there is new technical information or changes to this model, a tech notice box will appear on the page. ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED Radio/Servos A minimum of 4-channels is required to fly the Uproar V2 ARF. The Tactic TTX650 transmitter is recommended because of its simple, flexible computer programming and multiple model memory: Tactic TTX650 6-channel programmable radio (TACJ2650) Tactic TR625 6-chanel receiver (TACJ0625) Tactic TSX25 mini digital high-speed 2 ball bearing servos offer the most precision (TACM0225), but Tactic analog servos are also suitable (TACM0220). Four servos are required for a brushless setup and five servos for glow. 2 (4) 6" [150mm] universal servo extensions (TACM2092) are required for the ailerons (one on each servo and one in each channel in the receiver). If powering your Uproar V2 with a glow engine, a receiver battery and on/off switch will also be required: Hobbico 2S 6.6V 1300mAh LiFe battery (HCAM6411) On-off receiver switch (TACM2000) Glow Engine The Uproar V2 is suited for a.46 2-stroke glow. The O.S. Max.46AXII ABL (OSMG0548) is illustrated in this manual. Other accessories for a glow engine 1/4" [6.4mm] R/C foam rubber (HCAQ1000) Fuel tubing (GPMQ4131) Suitable propeller for your engine Brushless Electric Motor The electric setup for the Uproar V2 is straightforward: a Great Planes Electrifly RimFire.32 on a 13 x 8 E prop with a 80A ESC powered by a 4S 3800mAh LiPo. A Hitec Energy Sport 80 ESC is illustrated in the instruction manual. A 14 x 7 E prop is also suitable RimFire.32 (GPMG4700) APC 13 x 8 thin E prop (APCQ3080) APC 14 x 7 thin E prop (APCQ4145) Hitec Energy Sport 80 ESC (HRCM9050) 3300mAh 4000mAh 4S LiPo: FlightPower 4S 3800mAh 30C (FPWP3384) Venom Fly 4S 3600mAh 30C (VNRA2516)

3 LiPo Battery Charger To charge a 4S 3800mAh LiPo at 1C a charger capable of at least 65 Watts output power is required (4S x 4.2V/cell = 16.8V x 3.8A = 63 Watts). The Triton EQ2 (GPMM3156) is more than enough charger with 100W output AC and 120W output DC. Adhesives, Hardware & Other Accessories Other than common hobby tools here is a list of the rest of the items required: 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6043) Epoxy brushes (GPMR8060) Mixing cups (GPMR8056) Mixing sticks (GPMR8055) Threadlocker thread locking cement (GPMR6060) Thin CA (GPMR6001) Medium CA (GPMR6007) CA applicator tips (HCAR3780) CA accelerator (GPMR6035) GP Back/Back Hook 'n Loop Hold DownStrap 3/4x 24" (GPMQ4476) GP Hook & Loop 1x6" (2) (GPMQ4480) GP Dead Center Hole Locator (GPMR8130) Zap Adhesives Formula 560 Canopy Glue 2 oz (PAAR3300) Great Planes Standard Precision Prop Reamer (GPMQ5006) Drills: 1/16" [1.6 mm], 3/32" [2.4 mm], 5/32" [4.0 mm], 13/64" (or 3/16") [5.0mm], #49 (.073"), 1/8" [3.2mm] A covering iron with a cover sock may be required for tightening and re bonding the covering to the model that may have loosened between the time the plane was manufactured and the time the model was removed from the box. The 21 st Century iron is preferred because of its long cord, contoured shoe and precisely adjustable temperature range: Coverite 21 st Century Sealing Iron (COVR2700) Coverite 21 st Century Cover Sock (COVR2702) KIT INSPECTION Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly, contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the Kit Contents list. Tower Hobbies Product Support 3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1 Ph: (217) , ext. 6 Champaign, IL Fax: (217) airsupport@greatplanes.com Order No. TOWA4085 TOWA4086 TOWA4087 TOWA4088 TOWA4089 TOWA4090 TOWA4091 TOWA4092 TOWA4093 TOWA4094 TOWA4095 PARTS LIST Description Wing Set Fuselage Horizontal Stabilizer Vertical Stabilizer Landing Gear Set Wing Tip Plates Canopy Wing Joiner Tube Tail Gear Set Spinner Decals A Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402) is also indispensable for working on your Uproar V2. 3

4 KIT CONTENTS Fuselage 2. Wing 3. Wing 4. Canopy 5. Fuel Tank Hardware 6. Fuel Tank 7. Engine Mount Hardware 8. Wing Tip Plates 9. Horizontal Stabilizer 10. Control Horn Hardware 11. Nylon Hardware 12. Tail Gear Hardware 13. Fastener Hardware 14. Main Landing Gear Wire 15. Wheels 16. Spinner 17. Vertical Stabilizer 18. Wing Tube 19. Pushrods PREPARATION The covering on film-covered ARFs typically requires retightening and rebonding to the structure underneath from wrinkles that may appear between the time the covering was applied and the time the kit arrived in your hands. The best way to renew the covering job is with a covering iron with a protective cover sock. We prefer a 21 st Century cover iron with a cover sock set to about 360o 375oF [180o 190o C]. You may find this is a little hotter than the temperature you use on other coverings, but this material seems to require more heat. The recommended temperature setting translates to about 340oF measured on the surface of the cover sock Glide the iron over unsupported film, but where the film is over wood apply pressure to bond the covering to the wood. In some areas the wood will bow or bend inward, so wherever possible, support the structure underneath with your other hand. Adjust the heat setting as needed.

5 2. Optional: Three or four pinholes can be punctured through the covering between each rib in the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer, the elevators and ailerons, and in one side of the vertical stabilizer and rudder. This will allow heated, expanding air to escape while tightening covering. These pinholes may appear obtrusive at fi rst, but when the covering is heated they virtually disappear (plus, most of the pinholes will be on the bottom). Heat the side of the covering without the pinholes first. 5. NOTE: The procedure for preparing the holes in wood for all wood screws is as follows: A. Drill the hole with the drill specified in the step. B. Install, then remove the screw to set the threads. C. Add a drop or two of thin CA to harden the threads in the hole. D. Allow the CA to harden, then install the screw(s) with whatever it is that is being mounted/installed/attached (servos, landing gear, etc.). ASSEMBLE THE WING Hinge the Ailerons The left wing is shown in the images, but both wings could be assembled simultaneously. 3. Stack a few paper towels on top of each other and cut them into small squares. These small paper towel squares come in handy for dabbing up excess CA or wiping up epoxy when dampened with denatured alcohol. 1. If not yet done, separate the aileron from the left wing and tighten the covering as previously described (the pinhole technique works well for the ailerons). 4. NOTE: All machine-thread screws that thread into metal (hex nuts, blind nuts, wheel collars, etc.) should be lightly wetted with threadlocker. 5

6 3. Rejoin the aileron to the wing with the hinges as you close the hinge gap make sure the hinges remain centered and make sure the tip of the aileron is even with the tip of the wing. 2. Cut the covering from the servo mount in the bottom of the wing you may simply cut the covering along the edges, or cut 1/8" [3mm] inside the edges, then seal down inside with a trim iron. 4. Using a CA tip on a bottle of thin CA, apply five or six drops to the top and bottom of each hinge wait a few seconds between drops for the CA to soak in. And keep those small paper towel squares handy. They can be touched edge-wise to the hinges to absorb excess CA before it wicks along the hinge gap. 6

7 5. After the CA has hardened flex the aileron up and down and pull hard to make sure the hinges are secure. Continue with this wing, or go back to step 1 and hinge the other aileron Hook Up the Ailerons 3 90o 4. Connect the servo to your receiver with a battery so you can power the servo with the radio. Turn on the transmitter and the receiver. Don t forget to center the trims and subtrims in your transmitter programming. Fit a servo arm to the servo that will be perpendicular to the servo as shown. 1. Attach a 6" [150 mm] servo extension to the aileron servo. 2. Use 1/2" [13 mm] heat shrink tubing, tape or a dab of glue to secure the connections. 3. Fit the servo into the wing and drill 1/16" [1.6 mm] holes for the servo mounting screws Cut off the unused servo arms and use a #49 (.073") drill to enlarge the holes in the remaining arm. (Even though the pushrod wire measures.070" in diameter, a.073" drill sizes the holes correctly because the plastic expands when drilling the holes.) If you prefer, you may use a sanding drum to trim the remainder of the cut-off arms (as was done for the servo arm in the photo).

8 6. Thread a 4" [100 mm] pushrod onto a clevis until a small portion of the threads appear through the clevis as shown. 9. With the aileron and servo arm centered, mark the pushrod where it crosses the hole in the servo arm. 7. Connect the clevis to the middle hole in a control horn and secure with a silicone retainer. 1/16" [1.6 mm] 90-Degree Pushrod Connector 8. Set the horn on the aileron so the pushrod will be in alignment with the second from the outer hole in the servo arm (about 1/2" [13mm] out from center) and the clevis holes in the horn will be centered over the leading edge of the aileron. Using the holes in the horn as a guide, drill 3/32" [ 2.4mm] holes through the aileron. Mount the horn to the aileron with two M2.5 x 15 Phillips wood screws and the horn backing plate on the top of the aileron Make a 90-degree bend in the wire at the mark, connect the pushrod to the servo arm with a 90-degree pushrod connector, and then cut off the excess wire. 11. As noted and pictured on page 5, remove the servo mounting screws and temporarily remove the servo from the wing. Add a drop or two of thin CA to each screw hole, and allow the CA to harden. Then, re-mount the servo. 12. Power the servo again with your radio. If necessary, remove the servo arm and thread or unthread the pushrod from the clevis so the aileron will be centered when the servo is centered. Reconnect the servo arm and fasten with the servo arm screw that came with the servo.

9 13. While the servo is still operational move the aileron up and down to check for smooth movement. Make any adjustments necessary. 14. Prepare the other wing with the aileron servo the same way. 3. Also cut the covering from both sides over the wing tube holes, the alignment peg holes, the slots for the wing retainers and for the aileron servo wires. ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE Prepare the Fuselage for the Stab & Fin 1. If you haven t yet done so, address any covering issues on the fuselage and the tail parts as described on pages 4 and Cut the covering from the stab for the slot for the fin post and from the bottom of the fin where shown, being cautious not to cut into the wood. 2. Cut the covering from the fuselage over the rudder pushrod exit and both elevator pushrod exits and from the stab and fin slots. Remove the temporary filler block from 5. Slide both wings all the way onto the fuselage. the stab slot. 9

10 the low side until the stab aligns with the wing it shouldn t take much sanding and proceed in small increments. Once the saddle is adjusted all that should be required is a small amount of weight to hold down the high side. 6. Test fit the fin and stab into the fuselage. Trailing Edge of Vertical Stabilizer and End of Fuselage Align 8. Make certain the trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer aligns with the aft end of the fuselage. Otherwise the leading edge of the rudder will not contact both parts, causing a hinge gap. 9. The stab is pretty much locked-in and self-aligned with the fuselage, but there is a little free-play. If striving for perfection, you could rotationally align the stab as follows: A. Tie a loop around one end of an approximately 48 [1200mm] non-elastic line. Fold a piece of masking tape over the other end of the line. Mark a line on the tape. 7. View the model from behind to see if the stab is parallel with the wing. If it is not, sand the bottom of the stab saddle on the high side of the stab and the top of the saddle on B. Insert a pin into middle of the lip in the front of the fuselage for the battery/fuel tank hatch. Loop the line over the pin. 10

11 C. Hold the line with the tape to one corner of the stab. Swing the line over to the corner on the other end of the stab. Adjust the stab and slide the tape along the line until the stab is centered and equalized. 11. Also mark the top and bottom of the fuselage onto the top and bottom of the stab. 10. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen to mark the base of the fin onto the top of the fuselage. 12. Cut the covering from the top of the fuselage approximately 1/16" [1.6 mm] inside the fi n marks, being cautious not to cut into the wood. Wipe away the ink lines with a paper towel square dampened with denatured alcohol. Then, remove the covering. 11

12 13. Use a pin to puncture the covering on both sides of the stab just inside the lines you marked. Wipe away the ink lines with a paper towel square dampened with denatured alcohol. 2. Mix up approximately 1/4 oz. of 30-minute epoxy. Apply epoxy to the top and bottom of the stab over the pinholes aligned with the fuselage sides and to all other joining parts of the fuselage and fin. 14. Finally, cut and remove a strip of covering from the top of the stab in alignment with the slot for the fin post. Glue in the Horizontal & Vertical Stabilizers 3. Slide the stab into position, then add the fin. If you ve cut up balsa sticks, use them to wipe away most of the epoxy followed by paper towel squares dampened with denatured alcohol. Double-check alignment, place the weight on the stab if used and allow the epoxy to harden. 4. After the epoxy has hardened remove the wing to proceed with assembly. Install the Receiver Battery Skip this section if using a brushless motor and powering the radio with a BEC or voltage regulator. If installing the receiver battery in the location shown, this 1. Gather your small paper towel squares and denatured must be done before the elevator and rudder pushrods have alcohol for epoxy clean up. Small balsa sticks chopped up been installed. from 1/16" [1.5 mm] balsa sheet are also handy for wiping away most of the epoxy before using the paper towel squares. 12

13 1. Tape a layer of 1/4" RC foam around your receiver battery. 2. Applying the same procedures used for hinging the ailerons to the wings, join the elevators to the stab with the hinges and permanently glue them in with thin CA. (If you ve poked pinholes in one side of the covering over the elevators be sure to put those sides down.) 2. Some glow engine installations may require tail ballast, so it is desirable to mount the battery as far back as practically possible which is why the location illustrated in this manual was chosen. Install the battery, then hold it into position with pieces cut from the 1/4"x1/2"x 4" [4 x10 x100 mm] balsa stick as shown. Attach the Elevator and Rudder 3. Make both elevator pushrods the same way you made the aileron pushrods; thread the clevises onto two 27-3/4" [705mm] threaded one end pushrods, connect the clevises with silicone retainers to the pushrods and connect the clevises to the second-from-the-outer holes in the control horns. 22-1/4" [570mm] 4. Cut both pushrods to a length of 22-1/4" [570 mm] from the retainer screw to the end of the pushrod. Save one of the pieces of wire you cut off. 1. Cut the covering from the hinge slot in the end of the fuselage and test-fit a CA hinge. If the hinge fits too tight, enlarge the slot a little with a hobby knife or a small razor saw blade Insert the pushrods into the elevator guide tubes in the fuselage and mount the horns to the elevators the same way you did the aileron horns (drill 3/32" [ 2.4 mm] holes and use M 2.5 x 15 wood screws and the horn back plates on the top of the elevators).

14 Hook Up the Elevator and Rudder 6. Temporarily fit the rudder to the fin and fuselage with the hinges. Make the rudder pushrod the same way you made the elevator pushrods, but don t cut the wire. Slide the pushrod into the fuselage, align the horn over the rudder and mark the location of the screw holes. 1. Use the wire you saved from cutting the elevator pushrods to make a short pushrod with an L-bend for a pushrod keeper as shown. 7. Remove the rudder and pushrod and leave the hinge nearest the horn in the rudder. Drill the holes through the rudder for the screws if the holes intersect the hinge, just drill through the hinge. 8. Mount the rudder horn to the rudder (with the hinge in place), fit the rudder back to the fuselage and glue in the hinges with thin CA. 9. After the CA on all the hinges has hardened, flex the elevators and rudder up and down and pull on them to make sure they are secure. Refer to this image for the following three steps. 2. Place the elevator and rudder servos in the servo tray as shown, but do not mount the servos until instructed to do so. 3. Hook up the rudder and elevators with the same techniques used for the ailerons (centering the servos with the radio on, finding the servo arm 90-degrees to each servo, cutting off the unused arms, drilling out the holes with a #49 [.073"] drill and connecting the pushrods to the servos with 90-degree pushrod keepers). Install, but do not tighten the set screws on the elevator pushrod link. 4. With all the pushrods connected, position the servos as shown with a little space between the rudder pushrod and the elevator pushrod link so they will not interfere with each other. Drill 1/16" [1.6 mm] holes through the servo tray for mounting the servos. Mount the servos with the mounting screws that came with them (don t forget to harden the screw holes with thin CA). 5. Adjust the clevis on the rudder pushrod so the rudder will be centered when the servo arm is centered. 14

15 2. Drill 1/16" [1.6 mm] pilot holes through the X marks. Then, enlarge the holes with a 5/32" [4 mm] drill. 6. To adjust the elevator pushrods and tighten the elevator pushrod link, again with the radio on and the servo powered, use a 1.5mm hex driver to first tighten the middle set screw locking the pushrod link to the pushrod. Using a straightedge to hold one of the elevators flat with the stab, tighten the corresponding set screw in the link to lock the pushrod down. Then, tighten the other set screw for the other pushrod the same way. 7. Use the radio to move the elevators up and down observing the pushrods and the pushrod link to make sure everything operates smoothly. Make any adjustments necessary. We ll mount the on/off switch (if used) and receiver after the engine/motor has been mounted. INSTALL THE POWER SYSTEM Mount the Brushless Motor 3. Cut and remove the piece from the firewall for the motor wires. Skip to page 16 if installing a glow engine. 1. Push a pin or a small nail into the four X marks in the firewall that mark the location of the holes for the mounting screws Mount the motor to the firewall with M3 x 15 buttonhead screws, M3 lock washers and flat washers and M3 blind nuts in the back of the firewall.

16 5. Apply a strip of the rougher, hook side of adhesiveback hook-and-loop material (not included) to the top of the battery tray and apply a strip of the softer, loop side to the bottom of your battery. 8. Connect the ESC to the motor and place the ESC in the compartment aft of the battery compartment ahead of the wing tube. Guide the signal wire from the ESC over the wing tube into the radio compartment. 6. Cut a strip of hook-and-loop strap material (not included) to the correct length for a battery strap to hold your battery to the battery tray. 9. Test-fit the battery in the battery compartment. Arrange the battery wires and make any adjustments necessary. Skip ahead to Final Radio Installation on page 20. Mount the Glow Engine For C.G. purposes, it is desirable to position the glow engine as far aft on the engine mount as possible. This will minimize (or possibly eliminate) any tail ballast that may be required. 7. Mount the battery tray in the battery compartment with four M3 x 10 button-head Phillips screws. Glue two 12 x 12 x 12 mm balsa blocks to the back of the firewall to prevent the battery from contacting the motor shaft that protrudes out the back of the motor Push a pin or a small nail into the four + marks in the fi rewall that mark the location of the holes for the engine mount screws.

17 2. Drill 1/16" [1.6 mm] pilot holes through the + marks. Then, enlarge the holes with a 3/16" [ 5mm] drill. 3. Press M4 blind nuts into the holes in the back of the firewall. 5. Temporarily mount the engine mount with engine to the firewall with four M4 x 25 Phillips screws and M4 lock washers and flat washers. Use a Great Planes Dead-Center hole locator to mark the rear engine mount screw holes onto the engine mount. 6. Before removing the engine from the mount to drill the rear two mounting screw holes, sight-down a location on the firewall for the throttle pushrod and guide tube. There is already another + mark for the O.S..46, but if using a different engine you may have to mark the hole in another location on the firewall. Be certain the hole will not interfere with the blind nuts for the engine mount bolts or with the fuel tank once installed. 4. Temporarily fasten the engine mounts to your engine with a M3 x 25 SHCS (with M3 lock washers and flat washers) through the front holes in the engine mount lugs and the rear, elongated holes in the engine mounts. Do not tighten the nuts all the way. 17

18 7. Remove the engine from the engine mount. You may also remove the mount, or leave it in position. Drill 1/16" [1.6 mm] pilot holes through the marks you made for the rear engine bolts. Then, enlarge the holes with a 1/8" [3.2mm] drill. 2. Mount the throttle servo to the throttle servo mount. 3. Fit, then glue the throttle servo mount into position. 8. Drill a 3/16" [4.8 mm] hole through the firewall for the throttle pushrod guide tube at the + mark (or at another location previously marked.) 9. Mount the engine to the engine mount with all four M3 x 25 SHCS and washers and M3 lock nuts. Hook Up the Throttle 1. Guide the throttle pushrod guide tube through the hole you drilled in the firewall, through the hole in the former in the fuel tank compartment and up to the throttle servo location. Cut the guide tube to the correct length, then glue it into place. See the pictures on the next page for reference. 4. Fasten the screw-lock connector to the throttle servo arm use threadlocker to tighten the double nuts to each other, but not to the servo arm. This way, the screw-lock connector will be able to pivot as the servo arm rotates. 18

19 Install the Fuel Tank 1. Fit a 3" [ 75 mm ] piece of medium fuel line (not included) onto the straight pickup tube in the fuel tank stopper. Then, add the clunk to the line. 5. Install and cut the throttle pushrod to the correct length. Then, connect it to the carburetor arm and the screw-lock connector on the servo arm. 2. Fit the stopper assembly into the tank with the vent tube pointing toward the top of the tank as shown. Tighten the screw to compress the stopper and seal the tank. 6. You can set up the throttle now or later to open and close the carburetor barrel on the engine with the throttle stick on the transmitter. When ready to lock the pushrod to the screw-lock connector, use a 2.0 mm hex driver on the set screw and hold the screw-lock body with pliers so the set screw can be tightened thoroughly Test-mount the tank to the fuel tank/battery tray with a piece of 1/4" [6.5mm] RC foam rubber in-between and two 10" [250 mm] straps cut from a piece of Great Planes hook-and-loop strap material (not included).

20 4. You may tape the straps across the bottom of the tray so they won t fall off, then remove the tank and install the tray in the fuselage with four M3 x 10 button-head Phillips screws. 2. Connect 6" [150 mm] servo extensions to the receiver for the aileron servos. Then, use adhesive-back hook-andloop strips (not included) or other preferred method to mount the receiver. Connect the servo wires and the on/off switch. 5. Install and tightly strap the tank down the straps should be tight to compress the foam enough so the top of the tank will not interfere with the hatch. Connect a fuel line from the pickup tube in the fuel tank to the carburetor. Connect another fuel line to the vent tube that will later be connected to the pressure fitting on the muffler. Final Radio Installation 3. Position and secure the receiver antennas according to the specifications of the receiver. For the Tactic receiver shown, the antennas are to be positioned 90-degrees to each other, so small pieces of plastic tubing (such as from an aerosol spray can) were glued to the fuselage in the proper orientation and the antennas were held inside the tubes. FINAL ASSEMBLY Mount the Main Landing Gear 1. If using an on/off switch for your receiver (for glow engine installations) plan the location and installation of the switch. Be sure the switch is in a location that will not interfere with anything internally and will not get coated with fuel or exhaust. Use the switch mounting plate as a template for cutting the slot and for drilling the holes for the switch File flat spots on the back-side of the landing gear for the screws in the wheel collars. 2. Use a collar with an M3 x 5 Phillips screw on both sides of the wheels to hold the wheels to the gear.

21 Mount the Tail Gear 3. Cut the Main landing gear template from the back of the manual. 1. Place the tail gear mount on the bottom of the fuselage with the vertical part of the tail gear wire centered over the rudder hinge line. Use a pin or a wire to mark the mounting screw holes onto the bottom of the fuselage. Then, drill 1/16" [1.6 mm] holes through the marks. 4. Tape the template to the bottom of the fuselage. Use a pin to transfer the + marks for the screw holes on the template onto the bottom of the fuselage. 5. Using care not to drill into the fuel tank, remove the template and drill 3/32" [2.4 mm] holes through the punchmarks. 2. Enlarge the holes in the tail gear mount with a 3/32" [ 2.4 mm] drill. 3. Fasten the tail gear mount to the bottom of the fuselage with two M 2.5 x 15 Phillips wood screws. 6. Mount the main landing gear with the straps and M3 x 10 Phillips screws. 4. Drill out the hole in both tiller brackets for the steering arm of the tail gear wire with a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill. 21

22 5. Slide the brackets over the tiller arm portion of the tail gear wire and onto the rudder. Drill 1/16" [1.6 mm ] holes through the brackets and the rudder. Then, thread in two more M 2.5 x 15 screws. Mount the Canopy Curved scissors for cutting out RC car bodies is best for trimming the canopy, but regular scissors or a hobby knife may also be used. Cutting off too much material can apply stress causing the canopy to crack, so it s best to remove material in small increments. Base Lip Vertical Part (cut here first) 6. Position the collar down to the base of the tail gear bracket and tighten with threadlocker and a 1.5 mm hex driver. 1. First, rough-cut the canopy along the vertical part of the lip. 7. View the tail gear from directly above. If necessary, use pliers to bend the wire so the axle portion of the wire will be perpendicular with the rudder so the model will roll straight. 8. Fasten the tail wheel to the gear with a collar on both sides. 2. Next, cut the canopy just enough to remove the remainder of the vertical lip, leaving as much of the base lip as possible. 22

23 3. Supporting the inner edge of the canopy as you sand, use a bar-sander with coarse sandpaper to smooth the edges and trim the high spots from around the base of the canopy. 4. Use finer sandpaper to smooth the trimmed edge of the canopy and remove any flashing left from the coarser sandpaper. Wash the canopy in soapy water and rinse thoroughly, then dry. 5. Test-fit the canopy to the fuselage just to make sure it sits down correctly and to see about where you will attach it no particular measurements are needed and any spot that looks about right is suitable, but you ll want the canopy centered laterally. Use a 1/16" or 3/32" [1.5 mm or 2mm] brass tube sharpened on the end or a same-size drill to cut a hole in the top of the fuselage under the canopy to equalize the air inside the canopy with the air outside to prevent fogging. 6. Before attaching the canopy, be certain the covering over the top of the fuselage in the canopy area is tight and bonded to the wood underneath. It may be a good idea to go over this area again with a covering iron. 8. Position the canopy and hold it down with tape until the glue dries. Attach the Side-Force Generators The side-force generators (or tip plates) are optional. Basically, the tip plates make the wing more efficient and therefore the Uproar V2 actually feels lighter in the air. They also assist with knife-edge flight and reduce wing rocking at reduced speeds. The tip plates may be desirable (or not) for different kinds of flying. You may try the Uproar V2 with and without the tip plates to see which configuration you prefer. Cut the covering from the screw holes in the tip plates and the end of the wings. Fasten the tip plates with M4 x 15 button-head cap screws lightly wetted with threadlocker. Apply the Decals 7. Glue the canopy into place do not use CA because it will fog the canopy. Just about any other kind of glue is okay, but Zap Adhesives Formula 560 Canopy Glue is recommended because it washes off easily (before it dries), won t affect the plastic, and dries clear. 1. For precision decal placement and to eliminate air bubbles, spray the back of the decal with window cleaner, position the decal, then squeegee out the solution with a piece of soft balsa. 2. Additional trim accents/colors may be added from iron-on film or self-adhesive film. 23

24 PREPARE THE MODEL FOR FLIGHT Set the Control Throws CAUTION: If you ve installed a brushless motor, the propeller should not yet be installed. (Or remove the propeller before turning on the radio and checking the throws on the workbench.) 1. It s easiest to check and set the aileron throws with the wing mounted to the fuselage. Install the wing and connect the aileron servos to the receiver. 4. If using the 3D throws, a high volume of negative exponential is desirable on 3D rates approximately -60% is a good place to start for each surface. 5. While working with radio setup and programming (and before the propeller has been mounted for brushless setups), now would also be a good time to set the fail safe so that in the event the receiver ever loses signal the motor will not turn. Follow the instructions that came with your radio control system to set and check the failsafe. Check the C.G. 2. Support the back of the fuselage so the model will sit level, or nearly level. Use a ruler (or a tool that measures angular degrees) to measure and set the control throws according to the measurements below. Note: The control throws are measured at the widest part of each surface and the dimensions provided are for each direction of travel. (Example: low-rate elevator throw is 7/8" up and 7/8" down.) CONTROL SURFACE THROWS (each direction) AILERONS ELEVATORS RUDDER LOW RATE Up & Down 7/8" [22mm] 13 Up & Down 5/8" [16mm] 8.5 Right & Left 1-1/2" [38mm] 14.5 HIGH RATE Up & Down 1-1/2" [38mm] 22.5 Up & Down 1-1/4" [32mm] 17.3 Right & Left 2" [51mm] 20 3D Up & Down 2-1/2" [64mm] 40 Up & Down 2-1/2" [64mm] 36.5 Right & Left 2-1/2" [64mm] Adjust the control throws as necessary by using the programming in your transmitter and/or moving the pushrods to holes farther out or in on your servo arms and/or the control horns. Note: To achieve 3D throws the end points in your transmitter programming will have to be set to maximum, or near the maximum value If you haven t yet done so, get the model in completely ready-to-fly condition with the hatch covers, propeller, spinner and muffler (for glow engines) and LiPo battery (for brushless setups). The spinner back plate may require reaming and the spinner cone may require trimming to accommodate the propeller; the first step on a Great Planes Standard Precision Prop Reamer (GPMQ5006) is suitable for glow

25 engines that have a 1/4" prop shaft and the second step on the reamer is good for the RimFire.32 with a 5/16" prop shaft. The spinner cone may be trimmed carefully with a hobby knife with a #11 blade. Glow engine setups should be balanced with an empty fuel tank. [83mm] 3-1/4" The recommended C.G. is 3-1/4" [ 83 mm] back from the leading edge of the wing. The recommended C.G. range is from 2-3/4" to 3-3/4" [ 70 mm to 95mm]. 2. Use a Great Planes C.G. Machine with the rulers set to the recommended C.G. and place the model upside-down on the stand, or mark the recommended C.G. on top of the wing and lift the model upside-down with your fingertips. 3. Add nose or tail ballast as necessary to get the model to balance. PREFLIGHT Engine/Motor Safety Precautions Failure to follow these safety precautions may result in severe injury to yourself and others. Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat, sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore do not run the engine in a closed room or garage. Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate engines. Use safety glasses when starting or running engines. Do not run the engine in an area of loose gravel or sand; the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes. Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run the engine. Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket pockets into the prop. Use a chicken stick or electric starter to start the engine. Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller. Make certain the glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off or otherwise get into the running propeller. Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller. The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire. To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer s recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a gasoline powered engine an on/off switch should be connected to the engine coil. Do not throw anything into the propeller of a running engine. Balance the Model Laterally 1. Lift the Uproar V2 several times by the propeller shaft and the tail to see if one wing drops. 2. If one wing drops consistently, add weight to the opposite tip by sticking it to the outside or strategically concealing it inside the balsa tip. An airplane that has been laterally balanced will track better in flight and maintain its heading better during maneuvers when the plane is climbing. 25 WARNING: For brushless electric motors, never have the motor battery connected to the ESC without the transmitter turned on after each flight (or any time after running the motor) always disconnect the battery before turning off the transmitter. And when ready to fly (or whenever running the motor for any reason), lower the throttle stick and always turn on the transmitter first before connecting the motor battery. Also make certain your failsafe is activated and programmed correctly according to your radio manufacturer s instructions. The recommended RimFire.32 is rated for 50A constant current and 80A surge current. Powered by a 4S LiPo on an APC 13 x 8E it draws about 58A static and momentary, maximum peaks of about 50 55A in the air, but averages

26 a little less than 20A through a normal fl ight. This is a suitable propeller choice and flies the Uproar V2 well. Another suitable propeller choice is the APC 14 x 7 which provides slightly more thrust at the expense of a little speed. You can experiment with different propeller choices in this range as long as they do not exceed the amperage specifications of the motor. Typical flight time may be as low as 4 minutes or over 8 minutes depending on how aggressive and active you are with the throttle more throttle means shorter flight times. Before mounting the motor and setting up the ESC and battery, read the following important battery precautions: IMPORTANT: If using multiple battery packs that are connected with an adapter, never charge the batteries together through the adapter. Always charge each battery pack separately. Charge the batteries, then read the following precautions on how to connect multiple packs for flying the model: Battery Precautions: There are two ways to connect multiple battery packs: In Series and in Parallel. These are two 3200mAh batteries (one 11.1V and the other 7.4V). When joined in SERIES, the result will be a 18.5V, 3200 mah battery. 11.1V (3-Cell) 3200 mah This is a SERIES battery adapter that connects two batteries in series. In any case, use a flight timer initially set to a conservative time (4 minutes for example). When the timer sounds, land. Use a LiPo checker to measure the resting (unloaded) voltage when you land. The voltage should not be below 3.75V/cell. When you charge the battery also note how much capacity it took to recharge (indicating how much was used for the flight). Aim to use no more than 80% of the battery s capacity. Adjust your timer according to the voltage and capacity used for the flight. You can also use the worksheet on page 28 to determine optimum flight times based on your flying style and battery capacity. CAUTION: Never run the motor on the ground for more than a few seconds. Otherwise, you may overload the motor, battery or ESC. 7.4 V (2-Cell) 3200 mah 1. Connecting batteries in Series means to connect the + s to the s and the s to the + s. This combines the batteries Voltages, but the capacity remains the same. These two 1500mAh batteries (both 11.1V) are being joined in PARALLEL. The result will be one 11.1V, 3000mAh battery. 11.1V (3-Cell) 1500 mah This is a PARALLEL battery adapter that connects two batteries in parallel. Battery Precautions Charge and store LiPo batteries in a safe place! Never leave charging LiPo batteries unattended! 11.1V (3-Cell) 1500 mah 2. Connecting batteries in Parallel means to connect the + s to the + s and the - s to the - s. This combines the batteries capacities, but the Voltage remains the same. 26

27 11.1V (3-Cell) PARALLEL adapter 7.4V (2-Cell) NEVER connect battery packs with different Voltages in Parallel only combine in Series. Otherwise, the batteries will try to equalize with the larger one trying to charge the smaller one, thus causing heat and likely a fire. 11.1V (3-Cell) 3200mAh SERIES adapter 11.1V (3-Cell) 1250mAh Also NEVER connect battery packs with different capacities in Series or in Parallel. Range Check Don t forget to perform your usual ground range checks as written in the instruction manual that came with your radio system to be certain it is operating correctly. 2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. 3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner. 5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This does not apply to models while being flown indoors. 7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind). Radio Control 1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground check before the first flight of a new or repaired model. 2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an experienced helper. 3) At all fl ying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be established in front of which all flying takes place with the other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with flying the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line. Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited. 4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission. 5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three miles of any pre-existing flying site except in accordance with the frequency sharing agreement listed [in the complete AMA Safety Code]. 9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch a powered model in flight; nor should any part of the model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch the ground, except while landing. FLYING AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts) Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or the Code that came with your AMA license. General 1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows, or model fl ying demonstrations until it has been proven to be airworthy by having been previously, successfully flight tested. 27 Don t forget to tighten the wing bolts after mounting the wings. Frequently check that the wing bolts remain tight.

28 The Uproar V2 doesn t have any particular flight characteristics that you need to be cautioned about ahead of time. In-spite of its light wing loading and large control surfaces it actually flies quite mild (when the throws are set to low rates). To avoid being surprised, advanced and intermediate pilots alike should do the maiden takeoff and trimming on low rates. The best takeoffs occur when you can get the Uproar V2 up-tospeed quickly (but smoothly!) to get the rudder working. In the air, with the throws set to low rates the Uproar V2 handles and performs like any sport plane and is easy to fly. On high rates the Uproar V2 comes to life a little, but still handles like any other regular sport model. On 3D rates you better remain calm and be quick to react because the Uproar V2 responds quickly (even with gobs of expo!). When time to land, switch to the rates you are comfortable with. The Uproar V2 can be landed perfectly, but a few clicks of throttle until it s time to flair will help drag it in. Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a safe manner. GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING! Main Landing Gear Template Use this chart to calculate the recommended flight time A B C D E F G FORMULAS B / A D x.8 E / C B/1000 / (A/60) Flight Time (.10 ths ) Recharge Capacity mah/minute Battery Capacity Target Capacity to Use in Flight Recommended Flight Time Avg. In-Flight Current 28