ONE-DAY BOOK 2000 Section 4 : Troubleshooting

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3 RFI Closed TPS adjustment RFI driveability complaints many, many times can be traced to improperly set CLOSED TPS adjustment. It is critical to understand the process, and perform the proceedure whenever a customer complains of poor driveability, rough running, poor idle, plug fouling, or hard starting. The adjustment dosen t change or go bad after being done right, but must be done properly at some time. Remember that anytime a Throttlebody, Throttle Position Sensor, or Bosch ECU is replaced, the proceedure must also be done. Loosen the lock nut on the bottom of the idle speed screw with a 10 mm end wrench, and back the speed screw out with a 5mm allen wrench, at least 4 full turns. Check to be sure that the throttle cable has slack and is not holding the throttle open. If the cable was adjusted properly at PDI, it will have to be loosened. Be sure to identify the throttle cable, vs. the oil pump cable. (Its the one that is harder to get at). Lightly, snap the butterfly a couple of times to be sure it is fully closed in the throttle bore. Now, turn on your MPEM programmer, punch in your password, and attach the cord to the DESS post. Enter Scroll to, and enter Enter Scroll to, and enter Enter VEHICLE INFO BOSCH SYSTEM. DIAGNOSE ADJUSTMENTS CLOSED TPS Notice here what the currant closed TPS setting is. Normally it is somewhere between 3 and 4 degrees, a higher or lower number may indicate that something is off, but not necessarily. What we will watch for, is a change. Scroll to and enter Enter YES CLOSED TPS Check for a change in the closed TPS setting. If the change was significant, (.5 or more degrees) you will definitely change the way the boat runs. Be sure that the throttle cable has slack and the speed screw is not touching the throttle bell-crank once again, and repeat the procedure. If the adjustment setting remains consistent, proceed as follows. Enter Push Enter Enter NO MENU DIAGNOSIS REAL TIME continued SEA-DOO one-day book 2000 page 4-3

4 Check the TPS figure, it should be, 0.0. Now turn the speed screw clockwise and observe the TPS figure, it will begin to climb. Turn the screw until the TPS is at 6.7 degrees, and then tighten the lock nut, being sure that the adjustment figure does not change. Push Enter Push MENU END DIAGNOSIS MENU Now at the main menu, you may quit and unplug. Adjust the throttle cable free play properly, and test run the boat. If a change in the CLOSED TPS was noticed, the boat will have to run for awhile before it learns the new idle settings. It is best to rev the engine several times letting the throttle return fully each time. When finished, the boat should idle at 1400 RPM, in the water. Out of the water 1800 to 2200 would be normal. (Not 3000). The 1998 RFI has an idle seeking mode, which constantly adjusts the ignition timing, attempting to hold 1400 RPM. Out of the water it can not quite hold the RPM down so a reading slightly higher than 1400 is normal, but again, not (Note, the 1999 and 2000 RFI s no longer have this feature.) After this procedure the boat should run normally. If not, check for unusual faults showing in the MPEM programmer, (see the fault code information in this publication), and check the fuel pressure. At any time you have questions or comments concerning these procedures, please contact the Bombardier Service Department s tech line. Ignition timing The 1999 and 2000 RFI models have improved fuel and ignition mapping, therefore it was not necessary to use the idle seeking mode as found on the 98 model. The ignition timing procedure has also changed. In order to adjust the timing, using the MPEM programmer it must be upgraded to at least 3.0 version software. Proceed as follows. (Note, You may also use your VCK and BUDS to adjust the ignition timing. Follow instructions in the HELP file of BUDS.) Use a dial indicator and locate the PTO piston to inch BTDC. Install the timing tool and mark the PTO flywheel Attach the MPEM Programmer Enter VEHICLE INFO Enter BOSCH SYSTEM Enter START VEHICLE At RPM limit table push Enter Start engine If not in water, attach flush kit and turn on water Enter DIAGNOSIS Wait for fault code info to pass While the engine is running the programmer operates in hyper speed! Enter ADJUSTMENT Enter FIXED TIMING SEA-DOO one-day book 2000 page 4-4

5 Here the timing will lock on 12.0 degrees. View alignment of marks at any RPM. If adjustment is necessary. Continue as follows. Press any key Enter IGNITION Observe current timing setting Enter YES Use the timing table to shift the timing as required while viewing alignment of marks. After selecting a number the programmer will default back to the ADJUSTMENT menu. Reenter IGNITION if further adjustment is necessary. If satisfied with alignment continue as follows. Enter NORMAL TIMING Press any key Press Menu Press Menu again Enter YES to QUIT BOSCH Enter STOP VEHICLE Unplug the programmer Fault Code Information When diagnosing an RFI model, it is recommended to access the Fault Code information stored in the ECU using the MPEM programmer. While most of the faults would indicate a problem, some are normal and should not be considered as problems. These are the faults which would be considered as normal, and usualy should be ignored. You may also find the fault code information using your new VCK and BUDS software No signal detected. When the engine is not running, the ECU is not receiving a signal from the Crankshaft Position Sensor, therefore, this fault generates whenever the ECU is powered up, but the engine is not rotating. 04 FC 1E This fault is caused by an unused circuit in the ECU. The ECU interprets this as an open circuit. It will always appear. 02 1F 06 This fault is intended to set whenever the engine exceeds the maximum recommended operating RPM. On 1998 models, this code sets a little prematurely and will be seen often. It would be less likely to set on 1999 and 2000 models. SEA-DOO one-day book 2000 page 4-5

6 Other Useful Information 5625 Parts As most of you know the original 947 motor, which was white, came in the 97 ½ GSX LTD model # This is known as a type 'A' short block. The original short block was superseded to a short block kit ( ). This kit basically consisted of two new exhaust supports, required tapping out the tuned pipe mount holes to 10 mm, the removal of the cylinder block bleed hose, and a type 'B' 947 short block. This original kit was also white. There are no rebuilt parts available for the type 'A ' short block. It has been reported that some dealers have been putting the type 'B' rebuilt cylinders on a type 'A' short block. While this will work, it should not be done because there is no drain down channels in the type 'A' short block's crankcases. This in turn will not allow the water to circulate in the cylinders; this causes a hot spot in the cylinders that could cause piston to cylinder seizures. If the cylinders are damaged, there is a limited supply of new type 'A' cylinders available, although at times they are on back order. So if this is the case you can either bore the cylinders to the next oversize, install a new short block kit that was mentioned earlier, or install a rebuilt type 'B' short block. Up to the time when this book was printed, new crankcases and crankshafts are available for type 'A' short blocks. The type 'B' rebuilt crankshaft will work in a type 'A' short block. Back to the new short block kit. There are just a few of these kits left. Not to confuse anyone, but the last of these kits that were manufactured were silver. As these kits are getting hard to get and they are quite expensive, the best thing to do if a short block is necessary is to get a rebuilt type 'B' short block. Then order the parts listed in the new short block kit, and follow the kit's installation instructions to complete the job. Now, don't forget that with the new air box, carburetor jetting is different between the type 'A' and the type 'B' short blocks. Type 'A' short blocks require 155 main jets and 77.5 pilot jets. Type 'B' short blocks require main jets and 77.5 pilot jets. Amp Plug Connectors Amp plug connectors are becoming more popular in our products. While these have been working very well, when troubleshooting an electrical problem, there are a few things we would like to point out. First, of course, is to ensure the connection is clean and free of corrosion. Second, check to see that all the female connectors are seated properly in the plug itself. A lot of you have seen one or more of these connectors back out of the plug, thus losing an electrical connection. Third, something that most of you wouldn't expect, is that sometimes even when the female connector is seated properly in the plug, it still may not be making a good connection with the male counterpart in the MPEM. This is because there are three little tabs in each female connector that actually make the connection with the male SEA-DOO one-day book 2000 page 4-6

7 counterpart. If these tabs are not bent in far enough, they don't make good contact with the male counterpart. If you suspect such a problem remove the female connector (s) from the plug (refer to service bulletin 97-23) and bend these little tabs in, sometimes that's all it takes to repair a frustrating electrical problem. Smart Cable On 1999 '947 models we introduced a 'Smart Cable'. The throttle cable has a Hall Effect switch in it that flattens the advance curve (static curve) until it reaches 80% throttle. This feature provides smoother midrange performance, while maintaining maximum performance at wide-open throttle. At 80% throttle and above, the cable switches 'on', and the ignition advances (dynamic curve) as much as 12 degrees at certain Rpm s The Smart Cable is connected to the wiring harness via a three-pin connector. By following the cable, that connector will be found by the oil tank on XP's; on GTX and GSX models it will be found along the upper port side bulkhead. (Easy to get at on XP s, difficult on GSX's and GTX's.) It should be mentioned here that we are using two different manufacturers of MPEM's. The XP and GSX use a Denso MPEM, while the GTX uses a Megatech MPEM. While they are interchangeable, if the Smart Cable fails, different types of problems will occur. On Denso MPEM's, the engine only stays running when the starter button is depressed. By unplugging the Smart Cable, the engine starts normally. This is the most common problem, and is caused by water getting into the switch and shorting the contacts. On both Denso and Megatech MPEM's, if the switch does not turn 'on' the engine will only rev to approx Rpm s. On the Megatech MPEM there is also a possibility that the switch will be stuck in the 'on' position, which would keep the timing in the dynamic curve throughout the RPM range. If this occurs, severe engine damage could result. The Smart Cable can be checked for proper operation with a timing light. First, follow the Service Manual and mark the PTO flywheel as you would when ignition timing is checked. Then, put another mark on the flywheel approx. ½ inch to the more advanced state. This will be a reference mark only. Now, either unplug the Smart Cable, or go to the # 2 AMP plug connector on the MPEM, unplug it, and remove 2-16 and 2-17 which is the black and white/black wires. Then install two test connectors in their place, and plug the AMP connector back in. Start the unit and hold the Rpm's at The first timing mark should be lined up, if not adjust the timing with the programmer. Then SEA-DOO one-day book 2000 page 4-7

8 short the two test wires together. The timing should advance at this point; the reference mark should be closer to the pointer. Shut the motor off; plug the Smart Cable or the AMP connector back in. Check the timing again, if the timing is still in the advanced state, the switch on the cable is stuck on the 'on' position, and must be replaced 947 Timing Chart Degrees RPM Static Denso Static Megatech WOT Both RPM Basic The following is a troubleshooting checklist that can be used to diagnose problems on all of our boats. Some of this information is explained in further detail in our 1999 One-Day School Book in, RFI, and in Section 5, Tech Tips. Use this information as well as the Shop manualtoassistyouonrepairs.the items listed are intended to follow a logical troubleshooting sequence. #1) 947 motors #2) 787, 720, 650, 580 motors ENGINE Listen for any abnormal noises. Check compression (verify with a known good unit) Remember, pistons can be scored even if compression is good. Remove Rave valve housings and inspect pistons Remove the head and inspect the cylinders SEA-DOO one-day book 2000 page 4-8

9 Remove the cylinders. Inspect cylinders and pistons, measure cylinder to piston clearance, and cylinder 'out of round'. If pistons and cylinders need to be replaced, always check the piston to cylinder clearance of new or rebuilt parts. Inspect Rave Valves, ensure they are free and not sticking, ensure the bellows are not holed. Refer to page 86 in our '99' One Day School Book and ensure the Rave Valve solenoid is working. You can also use your pop-off pressure gauge and connect it to the fitting on the solenoid that feeds pressure to the Rave Valves. Then rev up the engine to 6500 Rpm's. You should read 3 to 5 psi. This will tell you two things; the Rave Valve solenoid is energizing, and your getting adequate pressure from the crankcase. (#1) Verify the line that vents the Rave Valve solenoid, which exits through a fitting at the rear of the boat, is clear. If it isn't, the Rave Valves will stay open. (#1) If you have no crankcase pressure, check the condition of the one way check valve located about 3 inches from the crankcase fitting, ensure the hoses are clear and not damaged or kinked. (#1) Inspect Reed Valves (#1) Inspect Rotary Valve and timing (#2) Inspect Rotary Valve Clearance (#2) Verify crankshaft indexing Pressure check engine Pressure check cooling system Pressure check Rotary Valve Reservoir (#2) Check Mag end crankshaft deflection Inspect the driveline for any type of drag, verify condition of the pump, as well as the impeller. Is the right impeller installed? If necessary, disassemble engine looking discrepancies such as; 1) a bad seal on the crankcase mating surface, 2) Cuts, weak or faulty springs on the seals, 3)Main bearing pins not seated in the crankcase, 4)Counterbalancer timed incorrectly, 5) Nicks, scraps, broken crankcase. Reassemble using all new seals, gaskets, proper locktites and torque.pressure check it. While running the unit: (a lot of problems can be diagnosed by just backing the trailer into the water and running the unit still secured to the trailer.) If the Rpm's are low, run the unit without the Rave Valves caps and springs. (On 787's you might have to manually operate them to get past 5000 Rpm's) If your Rpm's go up, you have a Rave Valve problem. Momentarily pinch off the cooling line going to the engine, looking for Rpm robbing coolant leaks. Look for exhaust leaks Adjust the water regulator. In most cases 2-3 turns out works the best, however the 98 and 99 XP's seem to pull more Rpm's with it turned all the way in. You might want to swap out a water regulator with a known good one. Pull the choke/shut off the gas looking for lean or rich conditions. Adjust the low speed screws. Verify the accelerator pump is working, and that it's adjusted correctly. Up to the '99 models we want.003" to.005" clearance between the plunger and lever arm, however in '99 we have a larger pump that delivers more fuel. In rough and choppy conditions where the throttle is constantly applied, let off and applied again, we install the restrictor jet kit (see the Whats New section) to avoid a rich bog at lower Rpm's Run the unit with a known good one, comparing performance at different Rpm's SEA-DOO one-day book 2000 page 4-9

10 CARBURETOR Clean carbs, looking for water and debris Verify pop-off pressure, and it holds pressure after it pop's off. Clean or replace internal filters Verify correct jetting Verify anti-siphon valve is good Verify fuel pump gaskets/diaphragms and check valves. Adjust the high and low speed adjuster screws to specs. Check carb synch. Check Reed Valves (#1) Check Rotary Valve and timing (#2) On 947's ensure the airbox is assembled and installed correctly. There is a difference between the Mag and PTO intake adapter, if installed incorrectly, airflow will be restricted. Make sure the rubber flaps are installed correctly, down around the exhaust manifold, not on top of it, and they are not sucked into the intake ducts. While running the unit; Pull choke looking for a lean condition Shut off gas looking for a rich condition. If there excessive spit back through the carbs, this may indicate depending what engine you have that the Rotary Valve timing is off, or there's a problem with the Reed Valves. If it bogs on acceleration, verify operation of the accelerator pump. Adjust the low speed screws to smooth out the idle and improve lower Rpm response. If one cylinder is running rich, that's an indication of leaking Reed Valves. If carbs are still suspected, swap them with a known good unit, or replace them If the engine will not idle down or rev's excessively, it most likely has an air leak, check all intake gaskets. On 947's ensure the aligning tab on the intake manifold is aligned with the carb body and not crushed causing a gap. FUEL DELIEVERY Pressure check fuel system Check for pinched lines. Sometimes zip ties or other fuel line holders are too tight, pinching them off. Blow through all lines ensuring they're clear. Verify fuel valve is working properly Verify fuel/water separator is clean and sealed Check fuel tank vents Ensure fuel pump is pumping fuel, if in doubt, compare the output with a known good unit. Verify pulse fitting on the crankcase is clear, and the hose going to the fuel pump is not damaged or kinked. Ensure the return line is clear. While running the unit; Install a fuel line directly from the baffle 'on' or 'reserve' fitting to the fuel pump. Install a remote tank directly to the fuel pump. SEA-DOO one-day book 2000 page 4-10

11 EXHAUST Check for any signs of exhaust leaks through gaskets, loose connections, burnt hoses, or damaged resonators. The gasket between the exhaust manifold and the tuned pipe will sometimes leak water internally as well as externally, if there's any doubt, change it out and torque to proper specs. Verify all mounting fasteners and hardware. Check for exhaust restrictions caused by; 1) the muffler 2) the hose from the muffler to the exhaust outlet 3)the exhaust outlet itself. While running unit; Lift the seat or hood, look for exhaust or water leaks. Remove the tuned pipe from the muffler and install a hose on the tuned pipe long enough so it can be routed outside the hull. If a runability problem goes away, either the muffler, exhaust hose, exhaust outlet, or resonator if so equipped has a restriction. (787's, 947's) If the exhaust is overheating, suspect a lack of water coming from the water regulator. Check for damaged or kinked water lines going to or coming from the water regulator. Ensure the lines are free of debris. Take the water regulator apart and clean it. If problem persists, change out the water regulator. If it still is overheating, remove the pump and check the 'o' ring between the pump housing and pump support. It could be restricting water pressure just enough to overheat the exhaust, but not the engine. If the pump has an insert, ensure the holes line up with the water inlet, and the area is free of any debris. ELECTRICAL Get the wiring diagram out, it's your best friend when it comes to electrical troubleshooting. Check, clean, and verify all connections going to various components. Ensure none of the wires have pushed out of a connector. On our Amp plug connectors going into MPEM's, we have seen where the female connector in the Amp plug is not making a good connection with the male pin in the MPEM. Here we can remove the female connector out of the Amp plug, then bend the little detents in on the female connector that actually make the contact with the male pin. Ensure the correct color-coded wires go to the right connection. Run continuity checks between components. Perform voltage drops between various connectors and wires. Use jumper wires to go directly from component to component, eliminating any connectors along the way, as well as the wiring. In some cases eliminate components that are not necessary to isolate a problem. VERIFY ALL GROUNDS. This is our number one reason for electrical problems. We can have power to a component, but without a good ground, we can not complete the circuit. Use a jumper cable and run a separate main ground directly from the negative post of the battery to a good engine ground. Find the MPEM ground, and run a separate wire directly to the battery. On models with the coil in a black electrical box, run a separate ground wire from the coil to the battery. On models with the old gray electrical box run a separate ground from that ground stud directly to the battery. Run a separate hot wire from the battery to the solenoid. SEA-DOO one-day book 2000 page 4-11

12 Ensure the unit has resistor plugs The following is a checklist of things to do when troubleshooting various running conditions. Not all items apply to every model. Verify ignition timing With the timing light connected, if the engine is misfiring, does the timing light 'misfire' too? Unplug the reg/rect Unplug the rev limiter Disconnect the yellow stator wires going into the MPEM Check resistance values on various components. Other then checking the MPEM for an internal ground, no other values should be used, they are not accurate enough to justify the replacement of the MPEM. When available, use the old Bombardier Tester for component outputs, otherwise use a digital meter and compare outputs of various components with a known good unit. Reverse polarity on the pulsar coil. Metal shavings on the pulsar coil may sometimes cause no ignition fire, or an intermittent ignition problem. The bracket that holds the pulsar coil may be broke, therefore the resistance value would still be correct, but obviously there would be no output. On some models, the whole electrical box can be switched out with a known good unit. Verify or Replace MPEM ECU (RFI) Ignition coil Spark plug caps. Ensure we have good metal to metal contact on the spark plug nuts, and that these nuts are tight on the plug. Ensure the caps are threaded securely on to the high-tension leads. Generating Coil Pulsar Coil Reg/Rect DC- CDI Relay Holder Starter Solenoid Lighting coil Stator SEA-DOO one-day book 2000 page 4-12

13 USEFULL HINTS FOR SEA-DOO TECHNICIANS From the Bombardier Service Department Current Draw Low or dead batteries seem to be very common in the field, especially with today s big engines and sophisticated electrical systems. You should have a basic understanding of why battery care and maintenance is so important in today s applications. We know that batteries self drain over time, and drain faster as heat increases. When extra current is required from the batteries to hold memories and operate security systems, the likelihood of encountering a low battery is even greater. If a customer complains of battery problems, first be sure that the battery is in good condition, then test the charging system as outlined in the shop manual. If everything is satisfactory, check for abnormal current draw when the engine is not running. To measure currant draw, use an ammeter that can measure milliamps. Disconnect one cable from the battery and install the meter leads in series with the battery and the cable. (Warning, Do not depress the start-stop button, meter damage will result.). Here are some current draw specs that you could expect to see from today s Sea-Doos. Condition Engine off for more than ten minutes. Install lanyard After 30 sec. After 10 min. Lanyard off Normal Draw 7 ma 250 ma 70 ma 18 ma 7 ma Notice that if the lanyard is left on, that the battery will discharge at almost three times the rate as when the lanyard is removed. Be sure that customers store their boats with the lanyard off. A milli amp is 1/1000 of an amp. If a battery is discharging at 18 milli amps, it will loose 1 amp/hour of its capacity in 55.5 hours or 10 amp/hrs in 555 hours (23 days). A Sea-Doo battery has a 19 amp/hour rating. You can see that, if the lanyard is left on it will be half dead in three weeks, or sooner when we consider heat and its effects on battery self discharge. SEA-DOO one-day book 2000 page 4-13

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