29% KATANA ARF ASSEMBLY MANUAL

Transcription

1 29% KATANA ARF ASSEMBLY MANUAL

2 Required but not included Aircraft Specifications: 4 channel radio and supporting equipment Wing Span 84 Engine c.i. (50-60 c.c.) Wing Area 1270 Sq. in. Fuel Tank 24 ounce Length 75 Spinner 3 ½ Weight 16 to 18 pounds Hardware Accessories and hardware packages available through Aeroworks Congratulations! You have just become the owner of one of the highest quality airplanes in the industry. Aeroworks uses only hand selected balsa wood and the highest quality light ply and hardwood available. All fiberglass parts are hand crafted and inspected for imperfections. We have designed the 29% Katana to be lightweight, yet strong enough to handle the aerobatic forces expected from a high performance airplane. Thank you for purchasing the 29% Katana ARF. We wish you great success in both the assembly and flying of your fully aerobatic airplane. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to call. Aeroworks: Phone: (303) Fax: (303) Or write to: Aeroworks 401 Laredo Unit D Aurora, Co Visit the Web: Or us: Info@aero-works.net Before starting the assembly process of your new 29% Katana ARF, Please read through the assembly manual carefully, and inspect all parts and any hardware for imperfections or damage. It is important to notify Aeroworks of any damage or problems with the model immediately. If you wish to return this aircraft for any reason a 15% restock fee will be charged to the customer. In addition the customer is responsible for all return shipping cost and all prior-shipping costs will not be refunded. Aeroworks cannot insure the skill of the modeler in the construction or use of this aircraft. Therefore, will not be accountable for any property damage, bodily injury or death caused by this aircraft. The purchaser also accepts all responsibility of any and all structural or mechanical failures. 1

3 EQUIPMENT REQUIREMENTS AILERONS: (2) Servo s: 70 Ounce minimum, two per wing. You may select to use only one servo per wing panel. If you do, you will need to place it in the servo slot toward the root end of the wing and you must use a 130-ounce minimum servo. Digital metal-geared servos are highly recommended. If you select the two-servo option, digital and metal-geared servos are not required. ELEVATORS: (2) Servo s: 70 Ounce minimum one per stab. Digital and metal-geared servos are not required. However are recommended. Especially if you plan on doing 3-D style maneuvers. RUDDER: (1) Servo: 100 ounce or higher recommended. Push-pull system located in rear of fuselage, or a pull-pull system in radio compartment. A digital metal-geared servo is not required, but highly recommended. If you select to use a pull-pull system, it is recommended that you use a high torque servo 130-ounce minimum. The decision of using a push-pull system versus a pull-pull system will depend on aircraft balance. Try to use the rudder servo to help achieve the correct C.G. location. Most 50 cc engines will require you to use the pull-pull method for proper aircraft balance. THROTTLE: (1) Servo: A high torque servo is not necessary, 48-ounce minimum. However, a reliable and fast servo is recommended. RECEIVER BATTERY: We recommend you use a 1700 MA 6 volt pack. SWITCHES AND WIRING: It is important to use heavy gage wire (22 gauge) for all switches, batteries, and extensions. FUEL TANK AND LINE: Use a 24 oz. fuel tank with large diameter size fuel line. Gas will cause fuel lines to swell and come off brass fuel tubing. Be certain to always tie down your fuel lines with clips or wire. It is also recommended to solder a barb onto the brass tubing for extra security. RECEIVER: The use of a PCM receiver is recommended. TIGHTENING AND RE-SHRINKING THE COVERING Open your kit slowly and take care not to damage any parts of the kit. Remove all parts from their plastic protective covers for inspection. Before doing any assembly or installation of any decals it is very important to re-shrink or re-tighten the already applied Ultracote covering. Due to the shipping process, heat and humidity changes from different climates, the covering may become lose and wrinkle in the sun. If you take the time to re-tighten the covering, you will be rewarded with a long lasting beautifully covered model. Using you re covering iron or heat gun with a soft sock, gently apply pressure and rub in the covering. If any bubbles occur, your iron may be to hot, reduce heat and work slowly. If bubbles persist, using a small pin, punch holes in the bubble to relieve trapped air and reheat. We do not recommend using a heat gun on any of the foam surfaces. Too much heat on one area may cause the foam to melt underneath the wood. After you have tightened up the covering, it is time to start the assembly of your Katana. 2

4 FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY With a sharp Xacto knife remove covering from wing and stab tube holes. Remove covering from stab and wing anti-rotation holes. Remove covering from aileron servo wire access slot in fuse and rudder servo cut outs in the rear of the fuselage (If you are putting the rudder servo in the tail). If you are using a lightweight engine you may select to install the rudder servo in the radio compartment using a pull-pull system. It is recommended you check your C.G. prior to installing the rudder servo. Most 50 cc engines will require the use of a pull-pull system. WING ASSEMBLY 1) Locate the pre cut hinge slots in the wing and aileron. The model comes with CA style hinges pre installed, but not glued into the control surfaces. If you wish to use the CA hinges we recommend adding additional hinges to each surface and use thin CA when gluing in hinges. We have used the CA type hinges with no problems. However, we highly encourage the builder to use the nylon pinned style hinge, such as the Dubro ¼ scale hinge. You will have to enlarge the hinge slot to accommodate the nylon hinge. Check surfaces for alignment and glue hinges into the control surfaces. We recommend using slow set epoxy or hinge glue. Be certain to give yourself plenty of aileron throw. Recommended throw is 35 degrees minimum up and down. We also recommend using Ultracote to seal all control surfaces. (Stronger after market CA hinges available through Aeroworks.) 2) Locate servo location on bottom side of wings and remove covering. Attach servo extension leads to your servo. Tie the pre-installed nylon string to your servo and pull the servo wire through the wing. Install servo into wings. It is important to secure the servo connectors with tape, wire or after market clip to be certain the leads do not disconnect. 3) Locate hardwood blocks pre installed in the ailerons. Drill and tap the control horn locations for an 8/32 bolt. Install the control horns so your linkage will be 90 degrees to the servo arm. We recommend using the Nelson Hobby control horn assembly #RCL70 available through Aeroworks. Do not counter sink bolt heads. The hard point is a plywood plate. If you counter sink head you may drill through plate. CONTROL HORN Drill and tap for 8-32 bolt 3

5 4) When setting up the servo linkage, we recommend using 4-40 rod with a silver solder clevis. It is very important to have all control linkages 90 degrees to the control surface and servo arm. If more throw is required then the silver solder clevis will allow, we recommend using a Dubro swivel ball link at the servo arm for more movement. SILVER SOLDER CLEVIS SERVO ARM AND CONTROL HORN AT 90 DEGREE 5) It is best to have the linkage as far in on the servo arm as possible and as far away from the control surface as possible. If you are setting up the plane for 3D style flying. We recommend using larger after market servo arms. It is important not to be closer then 3/4 from the control surface with your control horn. If you get to close to the control surface you may develop flutter. Special note: Remember to center all servos prior to connecting linkages to servo. This will eliminate any binding when the radio is turned on. 6) Locate the hardwood dowel for the wing retainer bolt, located on the bottom of each wing. Pre drill a 1/8 hole into the center of the dowel for the wing retainer bolt. 7) Slide aluminum tube through fuse and center in the fuse. Secure tube in fuse so tube cannot move. A hose clamp works well for this. Slide one wing panel onto tube and push tight against the fuse. 8) Make sure tube is still centered in fuse. 9) Drill and tap aluminum tube and dowel for 6-32 bolt. Wing retainer dowel location 10) Slide on second wing panel and repeat process. Make sure wings are tight against fuse. 11) Leaving the aluminum tube in one wing panel, with wing retainer bolt secured, at all times, will enable you to always find the tapped hole for the bolt. 4

6 STAB AND ELEVATOR ASSEMBLY 1) Locate the pre cut hinge slots in the stab and elevator. The model comes with CA style hinges pre installed, but not glued into the control surfaces. If you wish to use the CA hinges we recommend adding hinges to each surface and use thin CA when gluing in hinges. We have used the CA type hinges with no problems, however we highly encourage the builder to use the nylon pinned style hinge, such as the Klett ¼ scale. Check surfaces for alignment and glue hinges into the control surfaces. We recommend using slow set epoxy or hinge glue. Be certain to give yourself plenty of elevator throw. Recommended throw is 45 degrees minimum up and down. We recommend sealing all surfaces with Ultracote. CA hinges Seal all hinge gaps with Ultracote covering 2) Locate servo location on bottom side of stabs and remove covering. (One per stab) It will be necessary for you to install the servo stand offs included with the kit. This will prevent the servo from bottoming out in the stab. You will have to trim away some of the excess sheeting to accommodate the stand offs. Place the servo in the slot to determine the location of the stand off. Once you have the proper position, epoxy the stand offs into position. Using the preinstalled nylon servo wire attachment string, pull servo leads through stab. You want to have the male end of the servo extension hanging out the stab and the female end hanging out from the fuse. This will enable you to remove the stabs easily when necessary. It works best to run one elevator servo extension into the elevator port of the receiver and the other into an Aux port of the receiver designated by your radio manufacture. If you do not have a radio capable of splitting the elevators into two different channels, it is possible to use a Y reverser and plug both servos into the elevator port in the receiver. Install servo into stabs. It is important to secure the servo connectors with tape, wire or after market clip to be certain the leads do not disconnect. It may be necessary to trim balsa sheeting to accommodate servo stand offs Glue stab support blocks in place. Make sure that servo fits in slot 5

7 3) Locate hardwood blocks pre installed in the elevators. Drill and tap block for control horn locations for a 8/32 bolt. Install the control horns so your linkage will be 90 degrees to the servo arm. We recommend using the Nelson control horn assembly #RCL70. DO NOT counter sink bolt head. Use flush mount bolt 4) When setting up the servo linkage we recommend using 4-40 rod with a silver solder clevis. It is very important to have all control linkages 90 degrees to the control surface and servo arm. If more throw is required then the silver solder clevis will allow, we recommend using a Dubro swivel ball link at the servo arm for more movement. 5) It is best to have the linkage as far in on the servo arm as possible and as far away from the control surface as possible. If you are setting up the plane for 3D style flying. We recommend using larger after market servo arms. It is important not to be closer then 3/4 from the control surface with your control horn. If you get to close to the control surface you may develop flutter. Special note: Remember to center all servos prior to connecting linkages to servo. This will eliminate any binding when the radio is turned on. 6) Slide aluminum tube through fuse and center tube in fuse. Secure one end of tube in fuse so tube cannot move. Slide one stab panel onto tube and push tight against fuse. MEASURE EQUAL DISTANCE TAP FOR 4-40 BOLT Retainer dowel location is close to tip end of aluminum tube 7) Locate the hardwood retainer dowel for the 4-40 stab retainer bolt, located on the bottom side of each stab. Drill pilot hole through hardwood dowel and into aluminum tube. Then, drill and tap retainer dowel, aluminum tube and dowel inside tube for 4-40 bolt. Secure stab to tube with 4-40 bolt, then slide other stab onto tube and repeat retainer bolt installation. Be certain both stabs are tight against fuse. 8) Leaving the aluminum tube in one stab panel, with stab retainer bolt secured, at all times will enable you to always find the tapped hole for the bolt. 6

8 ENGINE BOX ASSEMBLY 1) Cut 1/8 ply engine box sides to correct length to accommodate your engine size (Be sure to cut from front of engine box sides) An easy way to determine the correct length of box sides is to slide the cowl just past Former F1 approximately 1/8. Measure from front of former F1 to front of the cowl. Now measure the length of your engine. Subtract the engine length from your first measurement. This should be the required length for your engine box sides. It is always a good idea to cut the engine box sides slightly shorter then needed, approximately ½. This will allow you to make adjustments by adding spacers between firewall and engine. Adding a spacer will also allow for the rear cylinder to be spaced away from the firewall to allow for better cooling. *Be certain to check sides, one is longer then the other, this will give you the correct amount of right thrust. Measure from F1 to end of cowl to get correct box length 2) Slide engine box sides through former F1, slide notch of engine box sides into former F2. Square sides to former F1. Using epoxy, glue sides to F1, F2 and fuse floor. Hole in firewall to accommodate rear intake style engine. 3) Epoxy plywood firewall to the inside of the engine box sides and flush with the bottom of sides. 4) Cut 1/8 lite-ply engine box floor to correct length. The floor should rest on bottom of sides and firewall and butt up next to former F1. 5) Epoxy engine box floor to the bottom of sides, firewall, and front of former F1. Be certain to square all parts to former F1. 6) Use 3/8 balsa tri-stock reinforcement at all glue joints. Behind firewall reinforce glue joint with 3/8 spruce tri stock. 7

9 FIN AND RUDDER ASSEMBLY 1) Locate the hardwood block pre installed in the rudder for the control horn. Drill and tap for 8-32 all thread. Install all thread into rudder and secure with flat washer and nut on each side. You should have approximately 1 of bolt on each side of the rudder for the mounting of the control horns. Use thread lock to secure. Pictures are of different model but procedure is the same 2) Trail fit fin to fuse. Remove fin. Apply epoxy to all surfaces to be glued. Slide fin into the fuse. Use tape to hold in place while assembly dries. Remove covering from glue areas Pictures are of different model but procedure is the same Epoxy fin to fuselage 3) Locate pre cut hinge locations and glue hinges into fin and rudder as you did with the elevator. LANDING GEAR 1) Drill or tap axle hole in gear to fit your axle. We recommend 5/32 dia. Axle. Note: This step may already be done. 2) Install axles using thread lock or lock nut. 3) Draw a centerline, front to back, down both aluminum landing gear and ply mounting plate. 4) Align center marks. 2 5) With gear centered on center line and 2 back from Former F1, drill four equally spaced holes through gear and mounting plate, two front and two back, to accommodate bolts Note: Aluminum gear may come pre-drilled, if so, use aluminum gear as a template. Use 10/32 bolts and blind nuts to attach gear to mounting block. Special note: Use thread lock on all Gear bolts. 8

10 TAIL WHEEL 1) Locate tail wheel steering hard point towards bottom of rudder. Drill a hole big enough for 4-40 rod to slide through. 2) Slide rod through rudder center rod and epoxy in place. Attach strip aileron horns to ends of rods. Make sure rod sticks out 1 on each side. 3) Use springs to attach tail wheel to strip aileron horns 4) You may also mount rudder servo in the tail and use the 4-40 rudder push rod for tail wheel steering. To do this, use one strip aileron horn and a 4-40 pushrod with a solder on clevis as shown. Strip aileron horn Epoxy in place CANOPY/HATCH INSTALLATION 1) For your convenience, your canopy has been pre cut and trim painted to fit the hatch cover. 2) Trial fit canopy to hatch cover. Do all painting/prep work, dash panels and pilot installation prior to gluing canopy. Note: We recommend you remove the covering from the cockpit floor location. We use an automotive trunk spatter spray paint (Grey) and paint the floor location to complete a finished look. 3) Glue canopy to hatch cover. We recommend using canopy glue. ENGINE / COWL INSTALLATION It is first recommended to install engine per manufactures recommendations. Engine thrust line is 1 ¾ down from top of fuse box sides. 2 degrees of right thrust and 0 degrees of down thrust. It will be necessary to offset the engine to the left (pilot view) 3/8 to compensate for right thrust. This will allow the center of the engine to exit at the center of the cowl. 9

11 Firewall Centerline Offset center of engine 3/8 to compensate for right thrust Measure Engine thrust line 1 1/4 down from top of box sides 1) Fit cowl to fuse cutting out where needed to accommodate engine. Remember to fit cowl over fuse 1/8. 2) When fitting cowl to fuse. Use a 3 ½ spinner to ensure proper alignment with spinner plate of cowl. 3) When satisfied with fit drill two 1/8 holes through each side of cowl and into cowl mount blocks. Approximately ¼ from rear of cowl. Note: The cowl mount blocks are not shown in the picture. To help achieve proper C.G., mount engine as far forward as possible. 4) Use 4-40 bolts and blind nuts to attach cowl to fuse. NOTE: We recommend using metal/rubber washer to secure bolt. Metal washer with rubber backing 7) Engine thrust line is 1 ¾ down from top of fuse box sides and 3/8 to the left (pilot view) of a vertical centerline. Engine shown is a Desert Aircraft 50cc CANISTER MUFFLER INSTALLATION (OPTIONAL) 10

12 Note: If you are not going to install canister mufflers, do not cut the covering from the bottom of the airplane. You must still attach bottom hatch cover with bolts and blind nuts, but you do not need to do anything else. Instructions below show typical 100cc engine canister installation. The 50cc engine installation and pipe installation will be similar. Except with the 50cc, you will only have one canister muffler. 1) Cut covering from air exit hole behind the bottom hatch. 2) Install exhaust headers and make sure that they are aligned in the center of the tunnel. 3) Remove headers and attach to pipes, slide into tunnel. 4) Remount headers to engine and check for alignment. 5) Install canister mounts through hatch opening. (Canister muffler mounts are supplied through engine manufacture and do not come with airplane.) 6) Attach pipe mounts with bolts and blind nuts to former 2. 7) Install hatch with bolts and blind nuts. Silicone spacer 4-40 Bolt Canister muffler attachments are left up to the builder 1/4" Lite-ply Leave air inlet hole open to allow airflow Make sure pipes are centered in fuse and are straight Remove covering from air exit hole behind hatch Silicone couplers attach headers to pipes 11

13 INSTALLING WHEEL PANTS 1) Make a notch in the wheel pant and lite-ply mounting plate with a Dremel drum sander. Make the notch deep enough to let the wheel pant slide over the axle to the desired height. 2) Align the wheel pant to the gear and with 1/8 drill bit, drill two equally spaced holes through gear and wheel pant. Mount wheel pants to gear with 4/40 bolts and blind nuts. CONTROL SURFACE THROW 1) Elevator Low rate 10 degrees up and down High rate 20 degrees up and down 3-D rate 45 degrees up and down 2) Rudder Low rate 30% deflection left and right High rate 60% deflection left and right 3-D rate Full deflection left and right 3) Aileron Low rate 18 degrees up 18 degrees down High rate 24 degrees up 24 degrees down 3-D rate 35 degrees up 35 degrees down The throws given are to be considered only a starting point. Adjust the throws to accommodate your style of flying. CENTER OF GRAVITY BALANCING (C.G.) 4 ¼ BACK FROM THE LEADING EDGE OF THE WING AT THE WING TIP. 1) Balance the Katana with fuel tank empty otherwise ready to fly. 2) With the wings, stabs and the hatch cover on the plane. Using your fingers pick up the model by the wing tips. At the proper C.G. location which is 4 ¼ back from the leading edge of the wing tip, the model should balance at this point. This is a starting point for the C.G. and can be adjusted forward or aft depending on your flying style. 12

14 C.G. 4 1/4 back form leading edge of wing tip FLYING We believe the Katana will be one of the finest flying airplanes you will ever fly. The Katana has no bad habits and very slow speed stall characteristics. Inverted flight is nearly hands off and knife-edge flight takes little or no mixing to remain straight and true. Remember the Katana is a large aircraft and picks up speed quickly when coming out of split S type maneuvers or when needing straight downward. (Always throttle back). If you have followed the assembly manual instructions and have balance your Katana properly, you will be rewarded with a highly aerobatic, stable and predictable flying airplane. 13

15 Always protect wires Secure battery with hooks and rubber bands Optional rudder servo location if you wish to use a pull-pull system. Typical radio and tank installation Shown with a DA 50 mounted and stock stand-offs Strip aileron horn Elevator servo installation Attaching spring for tail wheel if using a pull-pull Tail wheel installation if rudder servo is in tail Tank installation Tank is sitting on high-density foam with nylon ties to hold to floor 14

16 Available From Aeroworks ACCESSORIES FOR YOUR 29% KATANA AEROWORKS REALISTIC PILOTS AVAIALBLE Available in: Red, Yellow, Blue or Black Shirt color in Head Set version. DASH PANELS AVAILABLE WING BAGS AVAILABLE STAB BAGS AVAILABLE WING BAG STAB BAG HARDWARE PACKAGE AVAILABLE

17 29% Katana HARDWARE PACKAGE PACKING LIST FUSELAGE 4 4/40 x ½ SOCKET HEAD CAP DU571 COWL MOUNT 4 #4 FLAT WASHER DU 323 COWL MOUNT 4 4/40 BLIND NUTS DU 135 COWL MOUNT 4 10/32 X ¾ SOCKET HEAD CAP DU 580 LANDING GEAR 4 10/32 BLIND NUTS DU 584 LANDING GEAR 4 #10 FLAT WASHER DU 586 LANDING GEAR 4 4/40 X ½ SOCKET HEAD CAP DU 571 WHEEL PANTS 4 4/40 BLIND NUTS DU 135 WHEEL PANTS 4 #4 FLAT WASHER DU 323 WHEEL PANTS 2 5/32 AXLE SHAFTS DU 248 MAIN WHEELS 4 5/32 WHEEL COLLARS DU140 MAIN WHEELS 2 3 DIAMETER WHEELS DU 300L MAIN WHEELS 2 4/40 x ¾ SOCKET HEAD CAP MFG279 HATCH COVER 2 #4 FLAT WASHER DU 323 HATCH COVER 2 4/40 BLIND NUTS DU 135 HATCH COVER 1 OHIO SUPERSTAR (medium) TAILWHEEL 4 4/40 x ½ SOCKET HEAD CAP DU571 BOTTOM HATCH 4 #4 FLAT WASHER DU 323 BOTTOM HATCH 4 4/40 BLIND NUTS DU 135 BOTTOM HATCH WINGS 4 4/40 THREADED RODS DU 144 AILERON PUSHRODS 4 4/40 KWICK LINKS DU 305 AILERON PUSHRODS 2 NELSON CONTROL HORN RCL 70 AILERONS 12 HINGES DU 257 AILERONS 2 6/32 X 1 ½ SOCKET HEAD CAP DU 317 WING RETAINER 2 #6 FLAT WASHER DU 327 WING RETAINER 2 6/32 BLIND NUT DU 136 WING RETAINER TAIL GROUP THREADED RODS DU 144 ELEVATORS 2 KWICK LINKS (solder) DU 305 ELEVATORS 2 NELSON CONTROL HORN RCL 70 ELEVATORS 15 HINGES DU 257 ELEVATORS, RUDDER 2 NELSON CONTROL HORN RCL 70 RUDDER x 3/4 SOCKET HEAD CAP DU 572 STAB RETAINER 2 #4 FLAT WASHER DU 323 STAB RETAINER 1 DUBRO PULL-PULL SYSTEM DU 518 RUDDER 2 STRIP AILERON HORN DU 103 TAILWHEEL 16