The BTP 1.6L & 1.8L Mazda Miata Turbo Oil Drain Line Kit. Installation Manual Applicable to all 1990 to 2005 Mazda Miatas. Revised Rev 1.

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1 The BTP 1.6L & 1.8L Mazda Miata Turbo Oil Drain Line Kit Installation Manual Applicable to all 1990 to 2005 Mazda Miatas Revised Rev 1.1 1

2 Thank you for purchasing the Turbo Oil Drain Kit. We regard your installation as a mutual project and will be pleased to offer help at any time. If clarification of these instructions is required, please call BTP at Suggestions for improvements of these instructions are welcome. Send an to info@belltuning.com. The success of this installation will be determined by a variety of factors. These instructions should be adhered to unless reasonable cause for deviation exists. The vehicle must be in excellent condition and proper tune prior to starting the installation. Care and attention to detail by the installer are of extreme importance. It is not necessary that the installer has any previous experience with forced induction. The mechanical skills required for a successful install are roughly equivalent to that needed to properly remove and replace the exhaust header and tailpipe. If one has no mechanical experience, it is strongly suggested that help be sought from a hobbyist or professional mechanic. All left or right directional references will be from the driver viewpoint. For example, the turbo mounts on the left side. These instructions and the operational requirements for this system must be reviewed with the ownerdriver prior to delivery of the vehicle to the end user. Please read the statement of warranty at the end of these instructions prior to starting the installation. THE INSTALLER SHOULD PASS THESE INSTRUCTIONS ON TO THE OWNER-DRIVER. Vehicle Service Updates This installation process calls for an oil and filter change. We strongly urge the use of synthetic lubricants, such as Amsoil. Unless the fuel filter, spark plugs and plug wires are all relatively fresh (less than 10k miles) they should also be changed. Stock NGK plugs are acceptable. One step colder plug is equally acceptable. Gap the plugs between to inch. Tool and Equipment Requirements The following tools and equipment will be required to conveniently accomplish this install: General metric open/box wrenches Floor jack General SAE open/box wrenches Jack stands x 4 General metric socket set Hand drill and assorted bits Small funnel Permatex Thread Sealer Oil change Oil drain pan Clean rags Mineral Spirits - 1 pint Copyright BTP

3 Preliminary A clean engine is pleasant to work on. If needed, wash both top side and bottom very thoroughly. The high pressure car wash does a good job. Wearing latex gloves, can help keep the installer as clean as a nice engine. Position the car on jack stands, high enough to work conveniently beneath the car. DO NOT DRAIN THE OIL. Preparing the Turbo: Several assembly steps are easier to accomplish with the turbo off of the car. In handling the turbo, please exercise care as they are fragile to dropping and foreign particle damage. Check the turbo for any foreign particles inside. Clean the gasket surfaces. Cover the compressor inlet and outlet with sandwich bags and a rubber band to avoid junk getting into the turbo. Note: Some debris is damaging, some is harmless. Oily smudges mean nothing. Aluminum shavings burn up in the combustion and are harmless. Anything reeking of iron or silicon (glass beads) is a killer and can ruin a cylinder in a heartbeat. ANYTHING hanging around the turbo oil inlet can prove harmful. Rather than trying to decide what s what... Screw the Oil Drain Fitting into the Oil Drain Plate. Use a drop of permatex on the threads. Refer to picture # 1. Apply both sides of the Oil Drain Gasket with permatex. Line the Oil Drain Plate up with the gasket and place it into position on the turbo. You will notice that the Oil Drain Plate bolts onto the turbo directly across from the oil inlet at a angle. Fasten the Oil Drain Plate to the turbo with the 8 mm x 25 mm socket head cap screws. Use permatex on the threads. Refer to picture # 1 & 2. Set the turbo aside, away from harm and debris. Picture # 1 Picture # 2 Copyright BTP

4 Oil Return Line: There are many easier oil drain lines to install than the fixed length metal braid hose. We ve used them all with varying degrees of success. The only 100% correct drain line is exactly what we ve chosen here. It will require another 15 minutes to install, but regardless of whether you stop to think about it in two or three years, it will prove time well spent. The braided line also requires more care regarding placement of the hole in the oil sump or else the line will not fit, or remain in a severe bind. While mildly scary, drilling and threading a hole in the oil sump is, nevertheless, a perfectly safe process. The procedure outlined here will preclude any shavings from remaining in the sump. Should any shavings slip through and not come out when draining the oil and purging with solvent, they will find it very difficult to get off the bottom of the sump and into the oil pick-up. If any shavings still survive to enter the pick-up, they will stop in the oil filter. The turbo drain hole will lie slightly below the oil level, thus oil will run out as the drill penetrates the sump wall. The oil flow will further purge the shavings. You will actually see them flowing out in the oil. Picture # 3 The drain hole location is on the left (driver) side of the oil sump, just below the A/C compressor. If your Miata does not have an A/C compressor present, move the drill location up about one inch and forward 1/4". Picture # 4 Locate the position of the drain hole. Mark a point 2.3" below the lower lip of the oil pan flange that bolts up to the engine block. With a straight edge across the front of the oil pan, approximately two inches below the pan flange, measure aft 1.5" and mark the spot. So, 2.3" down and 1.5" aft is the place to drill for oil. Just don t expect to get rich off of this discovery. Place an oil drain pan below the sump. Refer to picture # 3 & 4. With AC lines and other paraphernalia in the way of where the hand drill needs to be, it is almost impossible to drill the hole perpendicular to the sump wall. This does not matter, as long as the tap is held straight when cutting the threads. Just hold the drill as straight as possible and the tap can fix the real thread direction. Drill the hole with the 0.312" diameter drill bit. Grease the end of the bit to collect the shavings as the bit is about to penetrate the wall. With this as a pilot hole now drill with the.578" bit. Use the same greasing procedure as above. Try not to let the drill bit suck itself into the sum when the wall is pierced. Tap the threads with the 3/8 NPT tap. The tap can best be driven with a ratchet wrench. Use an 8" to 10" extension and a 16mm or 5/8 twelve point socket. Grease the tap to collect the shavings. Again, you will see the shavings coming out with the dripping oil. Make every effort to hold the tap horizontal. The oil drain function will not be compromised if it is at a slight angle, but it sure will look sloppy. Stop every two threads, remove, clean and re-grease the tap. Sink the tap until Copyright BTP

5 two or three threads on the tap remain outside the wall of the sump. Let the oil drip for a while, then clean the surfaces as thoroughly as possible. Spray some solvent on the threads. Install the AN fitting into the sump. Use a smudge of Permatex to seal. Add the drain line (60029) onto the fitting and route the hose upward. Finger tighten only. Drain the engine oil. With the aid of a funnel, pour one quart of mineral spirits through the hose to purge any shavings that fell into the sump. Allow the solvent to drain for approximately 30 minutes before replacing the sump plug. Tighten the sump plug right now. Check the sump plug for security. Losing a sump plug would be memorable. Picture # 5 Installing the Oil Drain Line: Attach the oil drain hose to the oil drain fitting on the turbo. Tighten the hose assembly now, as it is very difficult to reach them once they are installed. Refer to picture # 5. Re-install the turbo. Route the oil drain line downwards and secure it to the fitting at the sump. Testing procedures Start the engine and check for oil leaks. Correct as required. Drive the car a few miles and get the engine warm. Once stopped, check for oil leaks. If a leak is found, re-tighten all the fittings. Note: Do not assume there are no oil leaks until the car has been driven and the engine is warm. Copyright BTP

6 WARRANTY INFORMATION All items made by BTP are warranted for workmanship and function for one year from the date of receipt. All other items are subject to manufacturer s warranty. If problems arise from using a BTP part in a manner other than intended, or a part is installed incorrectly, BTP reserves the right to refuse warranty coverage for damages. BTP will not warranty any kits, parts or items purchased thru an online auction that is not purchased from an authorized dealer. The customer must be able to provide proof of purchase for any warranty repairs. BTP reserves the right to inspect any item before any warranty will be granted. BTP will not reimburse for any labor charges on warranty items that occur without prior, written consent. BTP extends no warranty nor accepts liability to any original, stock, or replacement components on the vehicle. BTP does not pay any towing expenses. Warranty may transfer. BTP must be notified within twenty days of sale to continue warranty coverage. Shipping / freight charges are the responsibility of the end user for all warranty consideration. Terms of Sale All shortages from the parts list must be reported to BTP within 20 days of receipt. BTP does not pay any towing expenses. All returned items are subject to a 25% re-stocking fee. BTP accepts no liability for death or injury to any person or persons under any circumstance. The re-seller assumes all responsibility for the end user s knowledge of this warranty. Turbo Kits sold by BTP or by a BTP authorized distributor must be registered with BTP within twenty days of receipt by the end user. BTP does not guarantee that turbo kits will pass smog tests. For California residents, some BTP kits have been provided a C.A.R.B. Executive Order Number. However, BTP does not guarantee that the end user s car will pass. Acceptance, re-sell, or use of any BTP part constitutes full agreement by the re-seller/end user, that the terms of sale and warranty are fully understood and accepted in full. Copyright BTP