Do-It-Yourself Crate Engine Performer Performer RPM E-Tec

Transcription

1 Do-It-Yourself Crate Engine Part Number & Assembly/Installation Instructions Do-It-Yourself Crate Engine Performer Performer RPM E-Tec INTRODUCTION This Do-it-yourself crate engine kit will allow you to put together a motor that mimics either the Edelbrock #45100 Performer, or the #45900 Performer RPM E-Tec crate engine. You need to provide your own Chevy short block with a complete rotating assembly. Other engine related components and accessories will also be required depending on the year of the engine block and kit purchased. NOTE: P/N for 86 and earlier style short blocks will not include an oil pan, oil pan gasket and oil pick up. This gives you the option for a right or left hand dip stick setup. Please visit our website or call our Tech line at for more information. Engine Stand w/ 3/8-16 Bolts (>600 Lbs.) Ratchet and Socket Set including: 10 mm, 5/16, 7/16, 3/4, 1/2, 11/16 Wrenches including: 5/16, 7/16, 3/4, 1/2, 11/16, Large Crescent Harmonic Balancer Installation Tool Torque Wrench Crank Socket Small and Large Flat Blade Screwdriver Phillips Screwdrivers Allen Wrenches Including: 3/16" Torx Driver: T30 Mallet and Hammer Brass Drift TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED Grinder/Sander or equivalent Scotch Bright Scraper Pliers and Needle Nose Pliers Flat Piece of Wood or equivalent Shop Vac Oil Can or equivalent Small Caulk Gun Masking Tape Shop Rags / Towels Clean Engine Oil Lacquer Thinner Parts Cleaner Page 1

2 TIPS BEFORE YOU START Before beginning installation, use the enclosed checklist to verify that all components are present in the box then inspect each component for damage that may have occurred in transit. If any parts are missing or damaged, contact Edelbrock Technical Support ( ), not your parts distributor. Proper engine assembly is the responsibility of the engine builder. Improper engine assembly will void all manufacturer s standard warranties and may result in poor performance and/or engine damage. PLEASE study these instructions carefully before beginning this installation. Most installations can be accomplished with common tools and procedures. We want to caution you that building an engine is a complicated procedure that requires a good general knowledge of automotive mechanics. If you do not feel comfortable performing this engine build, it is recommended to have the installation completed by a qualified mechanic or engine builder. If you have any questions, please call our Technical Hotline at: , 7:00 am - 5:00 pm, Pacific Standard Time, Monday through Friday. Finding the right Chevy Short block for your engine build: When possible, it is always best to start an engine build with a brand new short block from a reputable company. Edelbrock s standard procedure for building crate engines is to use brand new Chevy short blocks provided by GM Performance Parts (GM # for P/N and GM # for P/N 45900). Now we understand that buying a brand new short block won t fit into everyone s budget, so the next best option is to have your short block rebuilt by a reputable engine builder or buy a rebuilt/remanufactured short block. This will ensure your engine build is reliable and gives you years of enjoyment. If rebuilding a used block, make sure to check for the following issues before investing all the time and money into the engine build. 1. Make sure the block does not have any visible cracks, leaks or signs of abuse. 2. Check the cylinder bores to verify that they are smooth. If the cylinder walls have visible gouges, the block may have to be rebored or worse, re-sleeved. 3. Check for any rust in the cylinders. Rust is a sign of water leaks. 4. Verify mileage if possible. Another thing to consider is the type of short block you want to start with: Some 86 and earlier style short blocks are equipped with 4-bolt main caps w/ 2-piece rear main seals and hydraulic flat tappet cams. For example, a GM Service replacement long block P/N is used by Edelbrock (factory iron heads are removed) for the #45100 crate engine. These blocks will use the DIY Kit and up style short blocks are equipped with 4-bolt main w/ 1-piece rear main seals and hydraulic roller cams. For example, a Chevy ZZ4 P/N used by Edelbrock for the #45900 crate engines. These blocks will use the DIY Kit Other recommended components: Flat Top Pistons are recommend to maintain the appropriate compression ratio: Pistons P/N :1 when paired with 70cc Heads P/N :1 when paired with 64cc Heads Oil Pan / Pick Up P/N does not include an oil pan, oil pan gasket or oil pick up. Use oil pan suitable for your application (right or left hand dipstick) Torque Converter P/N level engines can use stock type converters P/N engines require torque converters with stall speeds of 1800 to 2200 rpm Fuel Pump Edelbrock #1721 or one suitable for your application Water Pump Edelbrock # Short, Edelbrock # Long, or one suitable for your application Throttle Brackets P/N Edelbrock #8031 is recommend P/N Edelbrock #8032 is highly recommended P/N level engines will work with stock exhaust manifolds. However, we recommend installing Exhaust Systems headers and a good free-flowing exhaust system P/N engines require headers and a free-flowing exhaust system Spark Plugs / Wires Plugs: Champion RC-12YC or equivalent; Plug Wires: MSD #31239 or equivalent Fuel P/N engines can use 87 octane fuel P/N engines require 91 octane fuel at all times Page 2

3 Flex Plate/Flywheel Specification for 2-Piece rear main seal engines: Flex Plates Flywheels Flex Plate/Flywheel Specification for 1-Piece rear main seal engines: Flex Plates Flywheels GM Part Number Outside Diameter Converter Bolt Pattern Starter Ring Gear Teeth , , GM Part Number Outside Diameter Clutch Bolt Pattern Starter Ring Gear Teeth , GM Part Number Outside Diameter Converter Bolt Pattern Starter Ring Gear Teeth , , GM Part Number Outside Diameter Clutch Bolt Pattern Starter Ring Gear Teeth , OIL AND BREAK-IN TIPS Dipstick Option: 86 and earlier engines blocks will have a left oil dipstick option only. If a GM Goodwrench block is used (# ), a right side (GM # ) or left side (GM # ) oil dipsticks can be used. These parts can be purchased through your local GM parts dealer. A plug is required to seal the hole not used for dipstick, which must be done before starting the engine. RPM E-Tec crate engines (# and up engine block) use Milodon #31501 oil pans designed for applications with right hand dipsitcks only. These oil pans use baffles to maintain oil flow during high operation. These baffles have a hole drilled in them to allow the dipstick to pass through. If you feel the dipstick dragging along the side of the baffle rather than passing through, you may need to bend the dipstick down slightly at the point where it exits the dipstick tube. This setup will not fit on Chevy Novas with factory chassis. Engine Oil: This DIY kit is supplied with six (6) quarts of Edelbrock Break-In Oil. We recommend using the Break-In oil to properly break-in your new engine. The engine oil must be changed no more than 300 miles after break-in. Vic Edelbrock recommends Edelbrock Zinc Enhanced 10w40 motor oil (#1073 1qt.; #1083 case of 12 qts.) to be used in most climates to provide the necessary wear protection that is no longer found in most conventional oils. This special formulation has been developed specifically to enhance the longevity and performance of both classic and modern V8 engines. Engine OilsBelow is a list of other oils offered by Edelbrock. High Performance Synthetic 10w40 w/zinc P/N 1072 High Performance Synthetic 5w30 CAT Safe P/N 1071 High Performance Petroleum 10w40 w/zinc P/N 1073 Or supplement your favorite brand of engine oil Zinc Additive - P/N 1074 Prime Oil System Before Starting: Before starting your engine, you will need to prime the oil system. Do not turn the engine over with starter motor for priming. Remove the distributor if installed and use a priming tool to turn oil pump shaft. This tool can be purchased at your local Speed Shop. Engine and Camshaft Break-In (ONLY when using flat tappet cams): Engines using hydraulic roller cams do NOT require the following break-in procedure. It s important when first starting the engine to keep the rpm above 2,000 for the first 30 minutes. Make sure all fluid levels are topped off and all lines and hoses are hooked up correctly. The break-in must be done non-stop. Otherwise, the cam will not break-in properly. This is also a good time to check for leaks of any kind.. Final Notes: We recommend a mix of coolant and water. Along with a new thermostat of 160 to 180 degrees, new belts and hoses should be used. Check all grounds and fluid levels. The ignition comes with a preset advance curve and will work with an initial setting of 10 to 12 degrees. Edelbrock uses the blue spring and bushing to set the centrifugal advance curve when building and shipping our crate engines. Please check the ignition instruction sheet for other options and also distributor hook up. Check carburetor instruction sheet for hook ups and owner s manual for tuning tips. In some cases, it may be necessary to plug the vacuum advance from the distributor to the carburetor, to prevent detonation. The Performer engines always use the vacuum advance. A retorque is recommended after initial start-up/break-in and cool-down (allow 2-3 hours for adequate cooling). Torque cylinder heads to 70 ft-lbs following the tightening sequence provided on page 12. Torque Performer intake manifolds to 25 ft-lbs. Torque RPM E-Tec intakes to 11 ft-lbs. Page 3

4 OIL COMPONENTS (1) - Oil Pump Shaft (1) - Left Oil Pan Rails (1) - Right Oil Pan Rails #45909 Kits Only (1) - Oil Pump (1) - Oil Pickup (#45909 Kits Only) (1) - Oil Filter Adapter #45909 Kits Only (2) - Intake Manifold Gasket SEALS / GASKETS #45109 Kits Only (1) - Oil Pan Gasket - (#45909 Kits Only) (2) - Head Gasket (1) - Timing Cover Gasket (1) - Fuel Pump Gasket (1) - Crank Seal MISCELLANEOUS (6) - Break-In Oil (1) - Gasket Maker (1) - Red Threadlocker (1) - Thread Sealant Page 4

5 Bag #1 All Kits HARDWARE IDENTIFICATION GUIDE (10) - Hex Flange 1/4-20 x 1/2 (2) - Oil Filter Adapter Bolt (1) - Oil Pump Nut, Stud and Washer (2) - Hex Nut 5/16-18 (4) - Hex Nut 5/16-24 (2) Hex Bolt 1/4-20 x 3/4 (14) Hex Bolt 1/4-20 x 1 (4) Hex Bolt 5/16-18 x 1 (4) - Stud 5/16-18 x 1-1/2 (8) - Washer 5/16 (8) - Star Washer 5/16 (24) - Washer 1/4 24) - Lock Washer 1/4 Bag #2 For Kit (13) - Compact Hex 3/8-16 x 1 (8) Hex Bolt 1/4-20 x 1-1/4 (3) Hex Bolt 5/16-18 x 3/4 (2) Timing Cover Pins (13) Washer 3/8 (1) -Timing Pointer Bag #2 For Kit (1) - Compact Hex 3/8-16 x 1 (8) - 12 Point Head 5/16-18 x 1-3/4 (2) Torx Bolt (1) -Cam Thrust Plate (8) Hex Bolt 1/4-20 x 1-1/4 (2) Hex Flange M6 x 1.0 x 25mm (3) Hex Bolt 5/16-18 x 3/4 (3) Retainer Plate Bolt (2) Timing Cover Pins (1) Washer 3/8 (8) Washer 5/16 (2) Split Lock Washer 1/4 (1) -Timing Pointer Page 5

6 These installation instructions will demonstrate how to fully assembly a crate engine utilizing a complete short block. Prior to starting, all components not related to the rotating assembly (i.e. crank shaft, pistons, rods, bearings ) should be removed if not already done so. 1. This build requires the use of an engine stand rated for at least 600 pounds. 5. Also clean any residue from the water jackets on the front of the block. 6. Using a scotch bright pad and some lacquer thinner, or equivalent, clean the mating surface of the block until all residue is gone. NOTE: This will ensure a proper seal when installing the cylinder heads. 2. Using an engine lift or equivalent, mount the block to the engine stand using 3/8-16 bolts and the bell housing mounting holes. 3. Place shop rags inside the lifter valley to prevent debris from falling into the block. NOTE: Avoid using vacuums with metal tips as it can scratch the surface of the cylinder walls. Also avoid using compressed air to blow the debris off as it can make its way into the block. 7. Using a shop vac, vacuum all the debris from the lifter valley, block mating surface, cylinders, water jackets and bolt holes. 4. Using a metal scraper, remove any gasket material and residue from the block s cylinder head and manifold mating surface. 8. Using a shop rag and lacquer thinner, wipe down the block s mating surface, piston tops, and cylinder walls. Using a crank socket tool, rotate the engine half a revolution to clean the other cylinder walls. Page 6

7 9. The engine block s mating surface should be virtually spotless as shown in the photo below. 13. Clean the camshaft with parts cleaner to remove any grease or shipping debris. Apply a generous amount of supplied engine assembly lube to the camshaft lobes and bearing surfaces as shown. 10. If timing cover pins are not present, install supplied timing cover pins using needle nose pliers and a mallet by carefully tapping in the supplied locator pins as shown. 14. Double check that the cam bearings are installed before installing the camshaft. Carefully install the camshaft into the block with cam gear locator facing the front of the engine (red arrow). Make sure to hold the cam as straight as possible while installing. DO NOT force the cam into the block as this will damage the cam bearings. 11. Using the supplied Gasgacinch, apply two (2) thin layers to the timing cover mating surface and on one (1) side of the supplied timing cover gasket. Let the Gasgacinch tack up for about one (1) minute. 12. Position the gasket onto the locator pins so that the side with the Gasgacinch is installed onto the block. Carefully align with the mounting holes as shown and press in to secure. NOTE: Step 15 is for P/N using 87 and newer blocks with hydraulic roller cams only. Disregard if you are using P/N or flat tappet cams. 86 and earlier style blocks with 2-piece rear main seals do not use camshaft thrust plates. 15. Newer blocks ( 87 and up) with 1-piece rear main seals using hydraulic roller cams need to install the supplied camshaft thrust plate at this time. Use red threadlocker and a torx T30 to secure the two (2) torx bolts in bag #2. Torque to 8 ft-lbs. Page 7

8 NOTE: Please refer to the timing chain instructions for block clearances, sprocket markings, and other installation notes before installing the timing chain. 16. The crank sprocket can be installed at this time if not already done so. NOTE: The provided sprocket will have three (3) keyways. Make sure to install the sprocket so that the circle mark on the sprocket is at the 12 o clock position and the key located on the crank is at the 2 o clock position. The two (2) additional keyways and sprocket marks are for timing advance/retard which are not recommended for this engine build. 20. Using the crank socket, rotate the engine 4-6 revolutions to check for any tight spots. If the engine does not rotate smoothly, locate the issue and fix before proceeding. If the engine rotates smoothly, check the timing chain for slack. 3/8 of chain slack is recommended to avoid premature bearing failure. If the timing chain is too tight or too loose, a new timing chain set may be required. Please contact Edelbrock at if your timing chain set does not have the appropriate chain slack. IMPORTANT: Before installing the timing cover, rotate the engine so that cylinder #6 is at TDC firing position (marks on the cam gear and crank sprocket pointing together). 17. Place the timing chain onto the cam gear and apply assembly lube to the inside of the timing chain. 18. Verify that the circle mark on the sprocket is at the 12 o clock position. Turn the camshaft so that the timing gear locator is at the 3 o clock position. Place the timing chain onto the crank sprocket and position the timing gear onto the timing gear locator. The timing marks on the sprocket and gear should be pointing together as shown. With the timing marks lined up, cylinder #6 is at TDC firing position. 21. Apply a thin coat of Gasgacinch to the outside of the crank seal. 22. Using a mallet and flat piece of wood, or equivalent, press the crank seal into the supplied timing cover as shown. Make sure the seal is perfectly flush with the timing cover to prevent any leaks. 19. Apply red threadlocker to the threads of the three (3) black 5/16-18 x 3/4 cam gear bolts from bag #2. Install using a 1/2 socket and torque to 20 ft-lbs. Using a crank socket, rotate the engine clockwise and apply clean engine oil to the outside of the timing chain as shown. NOTE: Verify cylinder #6 is at TDC firing position per the NOTE on Step 20 before moving forward. DO NOT rotate the crank once the timing cover has been installed as this will move cylinder #6 out of TDC firing position. 23. Using your finger, apply a thin layer of the gasket maker onto the timing cover gasket previously installed in Step 12. Page 8

9 24. Apply a thin layer of assembly lube to the crank seal. Using a 3/8 socket, install the timing cover and the supplied timing pointer with ten (10) 1/4-20 x 1/2 Hex bolts from bag #1. The timing pointer should be installed on the left side of the engine as shown below. Torque bolts to 5 ft-lbs. NOTE: Only #45909 will come with replacement oil pick up hardware. #45109 will use the hardware included with the oil pick up of your choice. 28. Remove the two (2) inner bolts on the oil pump with a 10mm socket and discard. Using a mallet, gently tap in the oil pick up so that the mounting holes are aligned. Secure oil pick up using threadlocker and two (2) supplied M6 x 25mm bolts and two (2) 1/4 split lock washers from bag #2. Image for reference only. Does not represent actual parts in kit. NOTE: Kit #45109 does not come with an oil pick up, oil pan or oil pan gasket. This gives the customer the option for a right or left hand dipstick setup when using a GM Goodwrench block # Installation instructions will be similar. 25. Rotate the engine stand so that the lifter valley is facing down. Remove the stock oil pump bolt located on the rear main cap if present. Apply threadlocker onto the short thread end of the oil pump stud from bag #1 and install onto the rear main cap. Hand tighten the stud. 29. Using a scraper and scotch bright, remove any gasket residue on the oil pan mating surface. Make sure the front and rear seal are also free of gasket residue. Wipe down surfaces with a shop rag and lacquer thinner. 26. Slide the supplied oil pump shaft onto the oil pump so the alignment grooves meet. Using an oil can or equivalent, pump a few drops of oil into the oil pump and turn the gears before installing the oil pump. 30. Remove any residue from the oil pan mating surface if present. Clean the oil pan with a rag and lacquer thinner. 27. Carefully lower the oil pump assembly into the oil pump shaft hole located behind the left rear main cap bolt (standing at rear of engine) and the oil pump stud. Place the oil pump stud washer onto the oil pump stud. Install the oil pump nut using threadlocker and a 5/8 socket. Torque to 65 ft.-lbs. 31. Using a small caulking gun, apply a thin bead of gasket maker to the block s oil pan mating surface. The four (4) corners of the front and rear main seal should get a thicker bead of gasket maker. Page 9

10 32. Carefully install the oil pan gasket and apply another layer of gasket maker using the same procedure as Step Using a 7/16 socket, install the oil filter adapter using two (2) oil filter adaptor bolts from bag #1; torque to 8 ft.-lbs. Apply a little oil to the gasket of the supplied oil filter and install the oil filter onto the adapter. Below is the breakdown of oil pan hardware required for installation based on the style block used. NOTE: Hardware should be installed as follows: Standard washer on oil pan surface, followed by split/star washer and then the bolt. 1-Piece Rear Main Seal (#45909): Hardware Bag #1 Sides of pan - Use fourteen (14) 1/4 x 1 bolts with 1/4 split washers and 1/4 washers. Front of pan - Use two (2) 5/16 x 1 bolts with 5/16 star washers and 5/16 washer. Rear of pan - Use two (2) 5/16 Nuts with 5/16 star washers and 5/16 washers. 2-Piece Rear Main Seal (#45109): Hardware Bag #1 Sides of pan - Use fourteen (14) 1/4 x 1 bolts with 1/4 split washers and 1/4 washers. Front and rear of pan - Use four (4) 5/16 x 1 bolts with 5/16 star washers and 5/16 washers. 33. Carefully place the oil pan onto the oil pan gasket. It is recommended to use the oil pan re-enforcement rails (included in #45909 only) to avoid damaging the oil pan gasket during installation. Torque the 1/4 bolts to 8 ft.-lbs of and the 5/16 bolts/nuts to 13 ft.-lbs. DO NOT over tighten bolts as it will squeeze out the gasket and gasket maker. 35. Apply two (2) thin layers of Gasgacinch to the fuel pump mating surface and one (1) side of the supplied fuel pump gasket. Let the Gasgacinch tack up for about one (1) minute and install. 36. Apply assembly lube to both ends of the fuel pump push rod and install into the push rod hole as shown. 37. Using a 7/16 socket and hardware from bag #1, install the supplied fuel pump plate using two (2) 1/4 x 3/4 bolts, two (2) 1/4 split washers and two (2) 1/4 washers (standard washer goes on plate surface). Torque to 8 ft.-lbs. Apply masking tape to the opening to keep any debris out. NOTE: The other two (2) bolt holes are used to secure the fuel pump of your choice (not included). Edelbrock #1721 fuel pump is highly recommended. Page 10

11 This concludes the assembly of the short block. The remainder of this installation instruction will highlight how to assemble the top end components. NOTE: There are two basic camshaft setups. Newer engines ( 87 and up) will typically have hydraulic roller cams and lifters. These blocks are also equipped with lifter thrust plates and camshaft thrust plates mentioned earlier in this installation manual. Besides the differences mentioned in this NOTE, everything else is identical. Below are the two different types of lifters. The roller lifter will have a roller on the bottom, while the flat tappet lifter will be flat. 40. Using three (3) retainer bolts in bag #2, install the factory lifter retaining plate with the groove facing the rear of the engine. Torque to 18 ft.-lbs. Oil Hole Flat Tappet Lifter Roller Lifter 38. Apply assembly lube to the bottom and side of the lifters and insert into the lifter valley as shown. Make sure to position the oil hole towards the rear of the engine. NOTE: Because of the larger valve springs used on Edelbrock Heads, the washers included in this kit will not clear the two center springs when installed. Step 41 must be performed before moving forward. The head bolt kit comes with 14 long bolts, 4 medium bolts, 16 small bolts and 34 washers. 41. Using a bench grinder or equivalent, grind down two (2) washers included in the head bolt kit. Please refer to the image in Step 42 for reference. 42. Apply ARP lube (included in head bolt kit) to the back of the head bolts and washers as shown. Make sure the beveled side of the washer is facing the head of the bolt. The two (2) washers modified in Step 41 will pair with two (2) long bolts. NOTE: Step are for P/N engines equipped with hydraulic roller cams only. Disregard if you are using P/N or flat tappet cams. 39. Install lifter guides onto the lifters as shown. NOTE: Step should only be performed when ready to install the cylinder head. The silicon will tend to skin up if exposed to air for extended periods of time. 43. Wipe down the block again with a shop rag and lacquer thinner. Using finger, apply a thin layer of gasket maker around all the water jackets on the block as shown. Page 11

12 44. Apply a very thin bead of gasket maker from the top of the cylinder head mating surface to the first left and right bolt hole as shown. 48. Using 1/2 socket, loosely install eight (8) short head bolts to the side bolt locations of the cylinder head as shown. 49. Using a torque wrench and the torque sequence below, torque the bolts to 35 ft.-lbs on the first pass, then 50 ft.-lbs on the second pass, and finally to 70 ft.-lbs. 45. Carefully install the head gasket so that the head gasket part number is facing up. Apply gasket maker to the head gasket following the same procedure in Step Repeat Steps to install the other cylinder head. 46. Using the cylinder head locator on the block and head, carefully align the head and place onto the block. 51. Verify that the push rods are free of debris. Apply assembly lube to one (1) end of the push rods and insert it through the push rod guide plates onto the center of the lifters. NOTE: Apply gasket maker to the thread of all the head bolts prior to installing. This will help avoid water seepage. 47. Using a 1/2 socket, loosely install the long head bolt with the modified washer to the center bolt location as shown. Loosely install two (2) of the medium bolts to the outer bolt locations and six (6) long bolts in the remaining bolt locations. Long Bolts 52. Using a 11/16 socket, loosen all rocker arm studs. Long Bolt w/ Modified Washer Med. Bolts Page 12

13 NOTE: Steps should be performed on one (1) cylinder at a time to avoid any errors that may occur. This step is crucial for the reliability and longevity of the engine build. 53. Place rocker arm onto the rocker arm stud to verify that push rods do not come into contact with the cylinder head. Also verify that rocker arm is sitting on the center on the valve spring. Use a metal drift to gently adjust the push rod guide plate as needed. NOTE: Steps are procedures to properly install the rocker arms and adjust the valves springs. The rocker arms must be installed and valves must be adjusted on a cylinder that is at TDC firing position. Please follow the following steps carefully to avoid damaging your engine. You may want to check a Mitchell or Chilton manual for more help or call our tech line at TC Firing Order: Once push rod guide plate is adjusted, firmly hold the guide plate and tighten the rocker arm stud using an 11/16 socket. Re-torque the rocker arm stud to 45 ft-lbs. Verify that guide plate did not move during torquing. IMPORTANT: With cylinder #6 at TDC firing position, the rocker arms and valve adjustment procedure can be performed on the exhaust valves on cylinder numbers 2, 5, 6, 7 and intake valves on cylinders 3, 4, 6, Place the rocker arm onto the valve spring and rocker arm stud of cylinder #6. Using a 3/16 Hex Tool, loosen the set screw on the rocker arm nut. Apply a little engine oil inside the nut and carefully screw onto rocker arm stud. Do not tighten yet. 55. Repeat Steps as needed to check all rocker arms and push rods. 56. Apply assembly lube to all valve stems, rocker arms studs and push rods. 58. The rocker needs to be set to zero lash. Using a 5/8 wrench, slowly tighten the rocker nut while spinning the pushrod until you feel it tighten. Once you notice a slight drag, you are at zero lash. Hydraulic Roller Cams -Tighten rocker nut 3/4 turn pass zero lash. Flat Tappet Cams - Tighten rocker nut 1/2 turn pass zero lash. Page 13

14 59. Hold the rocker nut in position and tighten the set screw with a 3/16 hex drive. 65. Apply two (2) thin layers of Gasgacinch to the head/manifold mating surface and one (1) side of both manifold gaskets. Let the Gasgacinch tack up for about one (1) minute. 60. Perform Steps to the exhaust valves on cylinder numbers 2, 5, 6, 7 and intake valves on cylinders 3, 4, 6, 8 before proceeding to Step Turn the engine one complete revolution so that cylinder #1 is at TDC firing position. Repeat Steps for the exhaust valves on cylinder numbers 1, 3, 4, 8 and intake valves on cylinder numbers 1, 2, 5, 7. NOTE: DO NOT rotate the engine once rocker arms and valves have been installed/adjusted. Cylinder #1 needs to be at TDC firing position to install the distributor. 62. Apply a little engine oil to the outside of the rocker nuts and inside the rocker arms. 66. Position the intake manifold gaskets (side with Gasgacinch) onto the cylinder heads making sure to align the intake ports. Press down firmly to secure. 67. Using finger, apply a thin layer of gasket maker around the intake ports and a slightly thicker layer around the water jackets. Do this for both intake manifold gaskets. Intake Ports Water Jackets 63. Install the four (4) supplied carb studs in bag #1 onto the intake manifold with the short thread end going into the manifold. Use the double nut method to tighten the carb studs. 68. Apply a bead of gasket maker about a 1/4 thick to the front and rear of the block as shown. 64. Using a shop rag and lacquer thinner, clean the head/manifold mating surface. 69. Wipe down the intake manifold s mating surface with lacquer thinner. Carefully position the intake manifold onto the cylinder heads. Page 14

15 70. Torque all manifold bolts in a criss cross pattern starting with the inner bolts and working outwards. Performer RPM E-Tec manifolds will be secured with eight (8) 12 point 5/16 x 1.75 bolts and 5/16 washers from bag #2. Torque to 11 ft.-lbs. Performer manifold will be secured with twelve (12) 3/8 x 1 Compact Hex bolts and 3/8 washers from bag #2. Torque to 25 ft.-lbs. 73. Place the valve cover gaskets onto the cylinder heads and align with the mounting holes. The valve cover gaskets do not require any Gasgacinch or silicone. Install the valve covers using eight (8) 1/4 washers from bag #1, followed by eight (8) split washers and then secure with eight (8) bolts from bag #1. NOTE: Split washer is sandwiched between bolt and standard washer. Performer RPM Manifold Shown 71. Install the carb gasket and the carb onto the manifold so that the Edelbrock logo on the carb is facing the front of the engine. Using the hardware from bag #1, place four (4) 5/16 standard washers onto the carb studs followed by four (4) 5/16 star washers. Then secure using (4) 5/16 Nuts; torque to 15 ft.-lbs. This concludes the assembly of the top end components. The remaining installation instructions will show you how to install the harmonic balancer. 74. Apply a generous amount of assembly lube to the inside of the balancer. Then Apply a thin layer of engine oil to the seal surface. 72. Install the supplied baffle into the valve cover using the supplied rivets, a brass drift and a hammer. Place the valve cover on a protective surface to avoid scratching or denting the valve cover. Position the baffle and rivets onto the locator holes in the valve cover and gently tap in the rivets. Do this for both valve covers. 75. Apply a bead of gasket maker into the key groove of the harmonic balancer. Page 15

16 76. Using a harmonic balancer installation tool, carefully position the balancer into the crank seal on the timing cover. Install the balancer tool and tighten the small bolt using a 11/16 socket (bolt size will vary with tool). 79. The distributor has a groove that will mate up with the groove on the oil pump shaft installed previously. The oil pump shaft can be turned with an oil prime tool or flat head screwdriver to correctly align the distributor. Oil Pump Shaft 77. Using a large crescent wrench turn the balancer tool clockwise until the harmonic balancer bottoms out. Remove the balancer tool. 80. Verify that cylinder #1 is at TDC firing position. Using a flat head screw driver, remove the distributor cap by depressing the locking pins and turning 180. Insert the distributor into the manifold with the gold terminal pointing towards cylinder #1 and the wire harness pointing towards the rear of the engine. The distributor and oil pump shaft can be turned to achieve this. NOTE: Steps will show how to install the distributor. To avoid damaging the distributor when installing the engine, this step should be performed after the engine is installed and the oil system has been primed per the instructions on page Install the round gasket onto the supplied distributor. Apply assembly lube to the distributor gear as shown. 81. Using a 7/16 socket, install the supplied distributor clamp using one (1) 3/8 x 1 Compact Hex bolt and one (1) 3/8 washer from bag #2. Reinstall the distributor cap. Edelbrock LLC, 2700 California Street, Torrance, CA Toll-Free Tech Line: Office/Sales Line: Page 16