AFT mid drive kit Trouble shooting guide For 24v to 48V Kelly Controller KBS 48101L-L 100 A peak

Transcription

1 Date: AFT mid drive kit trouble shooting guide Rev 1.7 Page 1 of 17 AFT mid drive kit Trouble shooting guide For 24v to 48V Kelly Controller KBS 48101L-L 100 Table of Contents 1. Safety Educational Requirements of service technician and Public Liability Disclaimer Tools/ Consumables required Parts for trouble shooting picture Trouble shooting Initial diagnosis questions Trouble shooting: Step 1 Bad connections Trouble shooting: Step 2 Check battery voltage at controller terminals Trouble shooting: Step 3 Check Throttle Trouble shooting: Step 4 Check For blown MOSFETS in controller Trouble shooting: Step 5 Check Hall effect Signals from motor Trouble shooting: Step 6 Short circuited motor windings Trouble shooting: Step 7 Water ingress into motor, controller or Throttle Trouble shooting: Step 8 Motor cuts out but restarts Wiring diagram Trouble shooting CHECK SHEET Fill out troubleshooting check sheet and to us... 17

2 Page 2 of Safety Carry out the work in accordance with the AFT instructions and keep hands clear from all chains and rotating assemblies at all times when in operation for your safety. Furthermore, follow all local rules and regulations whilst installing and using this kit. Take care to not short or touch cables with high voltages as you may get a shock or burns. Follow all the local regulations for working on high voltage batteries. 2. Educational Requirements of service technician and Public Liability Disclaimer With the instructions provided nearly anyone can trouble shoot or service this kit, however we recommend a qualified bicycle service technician/ mechanic or equally qualified person installs this kit. Above 200w kits are marked as Off-road use only and you take full responsibility when using this kit and also check all your local laws and regulations regarding the use of this kit. By purchasing and installing this kit you agree that AFT takes no public liability fair any loss or damages to the bicycle and/or the rider when installing or riding a bicycle with this kit. 3. Tools/ Consumables required Item no. Quantity Text 1) 1 DC Multimeter with resistance and voltage functionality 2) 2 Pins or Thin nails to insert into back of wire plugs (if needed) 3) 1 Wire cutters 4) 1 Insulation tape

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4 Page 4 of Trouble shooting Initial diagnosis questions The first step to determining what has caused a failure in your mid drive conversion is to answer these diagnosis questions below. 1) Is the throttle switch in the ON position and is Positive power going to the Small red wire bullet connector to enable the controller? 2) Where you riding over very rough and bumpy terrain? Indication: This could indicate you have a bad connection that has come loose 3) Was it raining heavily when the motor stopped working or was it raining on the last few rides before this happened? Indication: This could indicate water has gotten into the throttle and or controller 4) Was it raining heavily when the motor went full throttle all by itself? Indication: This could indicate water has gotten into the twist throttle or cable plugs of the twist throttle. 5) Did you smell or hear a puff of smoke at the time of failure? Indication: This could indicate a blown MOSFET in the controller. 6) Did you go for a long ride, in hot weather going up steep hills at the time of failure or on your last ride event? Indication: This could indicate an overheated motor winding or faulty mosfet in the controller or possibly a failed hall sensor.

5 Page 5 of Trouble shooting: Step 1 Bad connections WARNING: When performing all these test below with live voltages be careful not to short circuit or touch any wires accidentally. Make sure to keep all metal tools and objects away from the wires since the exposed leads are live and an accidental short could easily damage the motor, controller or throttle further. BAD connections, even though it looks like things are plugged in, they maybe not connecting properly, so a good first test is to unplug ALL plugs a) Throttle 3 Pin and 2 Pin Plugs b) Battery 2 Pin Plug and single bullet connector c) 7 Pin Hall sensor Plug d) 2 Pin and 1 pin Phase wire Plugs. Look inside for internal damage or burn marks and then re-plug in all PLUGS. Look inside to make sure all PINS are protruding evenly out of the plug and that they make a good contact are not corroded. After plugging all plugs back together, test to see if the motor is now working. If not continue to the next test. 7. Trouble shooting: Step 2 Check battery voltage at controller terminals Check that battery voltage is actually getting from the battery to the controller. Setup the multi meter so the red cable plugs into V+ and that the black probe plugs into COM ground as pictured below set to voltage measure. Set the range to AUTO or 20V DC Put the 2 probes of the millimetre cables into the back of the plug that comes from the controller, as pictured in the right. Measure the voltage here, it should be ~30v to 50v Depending on what your battery pack voltage is. When you plug this cable into the battery, and there should be a spark on the contacts as the inrush current charges up the capacitors in the controller, if not their maybe a bad connection.

6 For 24v to 48V Kelly Controller KBS 48101L-L Trouble shooting: Step 3 Check Throttle The next test is for the throttle. If the throttle was locked on full throttle and this was after heavy rain, most likely their is water in the throttle or throttle plugs. If when you restart the controller and the throttle does not work, check the red error code led and if it has fault code of 2-4, then this confirms that the throttle is locked on full throttle at startup. To resolve this dry out throttle and plug joins with a hair dryer and re-test. For a permanent solution you need to place electrical tape over all exposed cable joins of thet wiring. Also if the throttle was wet inside you can also silicon the cover back onto the throttle. For other non water related throttle problems disconnect the 3 Thick Phase wires from the motor so that it does not spin when we turn the throttle later. Then make sure all other cables are plugged in and the controller powers up. Toggle the RED ON/OFF switch pictured right and make sure the controller is ON and the Red/Orange/Green Led s light up. a) Check throttle power up: When this is done, next touch the multi meter wires onto the 3 pin plug of the throttle as pictured. On one side of the plug touch the black wire from the controller and from the other side of the plug touch the red wire from the controller. You might need to push the probes in with force to get a good contact. (Opposite side of plug is so that you don t get a short between the test probes as the pins are very small and close). You should see a DC voltage of 4.8 to 5.0 V b) Check throttle speed signal If the throttle powers up ok, next you can test the throttle output signal. On one side of the plug touch the black wire from the controller and from the other side of the plug touch the white wire (middle wire) from the controller. You might need to push the probes in with force to get a good contact. (Opposite side of plug is so that you don t get a short between the test leads as the pins are very small and close). With the throttle in the closed position you should see a voltage of 0.8V, now turn the throttle and motor throttle signal voltage should rise, you should see it rise to 4.2V at full throttle. Throttle fault indication: If there is 5V supply voltage but no signal on the white wire from the controller then either the inline connector is not making contact on this white pin or the throttle is faulty and needs replacing. Page 6 of 17

7 Page 7 of Trouble shooting: Step 4 Check For blown MOSFETS in controller a) Setup Multimeter: Get your multimeter and change the range from Voltage to Continuity ( diode) or the resistance OHMS mode. Leave the probes in the same ports as before. If you have both probes sitting in free air and not touching each other you should get infinite or very HIGH resistance. One some multi meters it will show a symbol of I Infinity Or in this Mutlimeter to the right it shows up as 0.L Mega Ohms Then connect the red and black probes together and should get a reading close 0.0 Ohms

8 Page 8 of 17 b) Check continuity of power cables off the controller: You will now use the multi meter to check for continuity between ground black and between red + battery voltage. If we see a zero resistance between ground and positive, this implies that a mosfet has failed and shorted to ground. c) Check continuity of each phase off the controller: You will now use the multi meter to check for continuity between each of the 3 phase wires between ground and between + battery voltage. Hence in total there will be 6 measurements in total. Unplug the battery wires from the controller and also the 3 phase wires from the motor, and also unplug the 7 Pin Hall sensor plug. As pictured on the right, touch the multimeter probes into the back of the 2 pin power plug (polarity is not important) and also into the back of the Phase wire plugs. You may need to press firmly on the probes to get a good stable figure of resistance. Test Number Power connection cable colour Phase Connection colour Resistance (expected range) 1 Black- Gnd Blue Phase 50 to 55 K Ohms 2 Black- Gnd Yellow Phase 50 to 55 K Ohms 3 Black- Gnd Green Phase 50 to 55 K Ohms 4 Red- Positive Blue Phase 15 to 55 K Ohms 5 Red- Positive Yellow Phase 15 to 55 K Ohms 6 Red- Positive Green Phase 15 to 55 K Ohms Short circuit to ground 0 Ohms Y/N Infinite resistance You will note that when measuring the resistance it will rise over time. This is normal. If we see a zero resistance between any phase and ground or positive, this implies that this mosfet has failed and shorted. If we see significantly above 55 k ohms or Infinity resistance. Also if it makes no difference to the readings when we connect the multi meter probes, this indicates that a mosfet has failed open circuit or that there is a bad connection in the circuit we are measuring. I Y/N

9 For 24v to 48V Kelly Controller KBS 48101L-L Trouble shooting: Step 5 Check Hall effect Signals from motor If there is a fault on one or two of the hall signals, it will show up as a jumpy and not smooth operation of the motor. The motor may not spin up at all if it has stopped in certain position. In the situation that you have lost the +5V signal or the GND signal supply to the hall sensors, in this case all 3 hall signals would show a fault and the motor and controller would not turn at all. a) Prepare for hall test -Remove the primary chain from the bike motor to peddle chainwheel, and place a cloth on the motor freewheel teeth as pictured to the right. You will use this later to have a firm grip, to be able to turn the motor by turning the gearbox output shaft. -Check to see if the motor turns freely. To do this turn the motor by turning the gearbox output shaft via the freewheel. Turn it in the direction that is hard and not in the easy freewheel direction, so that you actually turn the gearbox and motor shafts. Note considerable force maybe needed to turn the gearbox backwards, if you are able to turn it then the motor it s not seized and you should continue with the next step. IMPORTANT NOTE: #1 - Sit the motor down on its back on a table, with the gearbox and freewheel at the top. -Slide back the heat shrink from the back of the motor signal plug to expose the wire terminals as pictured to the right -Disconnect the 3 thick Phase wires from the motor to the controller - Plug the 7 Pin plug into the motor from the controller - Plug the 3 pin and 2 pin plugs into the throttle -Plug the Battery into the controller Page 9 of 17

10 Page 10 of 17 Check hall sensor supply voltage Put the multi meter negative probe into the back of the 7 pin controller connecter labelled 21 black colour wire, that plugs into to the motor orange wire, pictured to the right. Put the multi meter positive probe into the back of the 7 pin motor connector on the other side so as not to get a short between probes. Connect it to pin labelled 5 from the controller, the dark yellow wire, that plugs into to the motor yellow wire, pictured to the right. You should measure a voltage of 4.78V to 5.2V DC here. If so proceed to next step. Now that we have confirmed the hall sensors are getting the correct supply voltage we can now check the individual hall sensor output signals. b) Check hall sensor A Signal Put the multi meter negative probe into the back of the 7 pin controller connecter labelled 21 black colour wire, that plugs into to the motor orange wire, pictured to the right. Put the multi meter positive probe into the back of the 7 pin controller connector. Connect it to pin labelled 18 from the controller, the light yellow wire, that plugs into to the motor black wire, pictured to the right. Take note of the voltage, and then turn the motor slowly. To do this turn the motor by turning the gearbox output shaft via the freewheel. Turn it in the direction that is hard and not in the easy freewheel direction, so that you actually turn the gearbox and motor shafts and not just the freewheel. You should measure a voltage of 66 milli Volts when not in Phase and 4.78 Volts when in Phase.

11 Page 11 of 17 c) Check hall sensor B Signal Put the multi meter negative probe into the back of the 7 pin controller connecter labelled 21 black colour wire, that plugs into to the motor orange wire, pictured to the right. Put the multi meter positive probe into the back of the 7 pin controller connector. Connect it to pin labelled 17 from the controller, the green wire, that plugs into to the motor red wire, pictured to the right. Take note of the voltage, and then turn the motor slowly. To do this turn the motor by turning the gearbox output shaft via the freewheel. Turn it in the direction that is hard and not in the easy freewheel direction, so that you actually turn the gearbox and motor shafts and not just the freewheel. You should measure a voltage of 66 milli Volts when not in Phase and 4.78 Volts when in Phase. d) Check hall sensor C Signal Put the multi meter negative probe into the back of the 7 pin controller connecter labelled 21 black colour wire, that plugs into to the motor orange wire, pictured to the right. Put the multi meter positive probe into the back of the 7 pin controller connector. Connect it to pin labelled 16 from the controller, the blue wire, that plugs into to the motor white wire, pictured to the right. Take note of the voltage, and then turn the motor slowly. To do this turn the motor by turning the gearbox output shaft via the freewheel. Turn it in the direction that is hard and not in the easy freewheel direction, so that you actually turn the gearbox and motor shafts and not just the freewheel. You should measure a voltage of 66 milli Volts when not in Phase and 4.78 Volts when in Phase. IMPORTANT NOTE: #2 - If all tests ok, go back to the step at important Note #1, otherwise if you have found a problem skip to the next section Hall section Indication - Now sit the motor down upside down with the gearboxand freewheel at the bottom, you may need to clamp the motor body in a vice, and a vice and repeat all the HALL sensor test above, this test is to test if the hall magnet ring on the motor has dislodged and hence only gives a good signal when the motor is sitting normally and not upside down.

12 Page 12 of 17 Hall sensor indication: If none of the hall sensors are working, then there is probably a break along the 5v power supply line to the hall sensors. If only one or two are not working, then it is possible that there is a break along that signal wire of this phase. Otherwise it is possible that a hall sensor was damaged from the heat in the motor or corrosion. 11. Trouble shooting: Step 6 Short circuited motor windings This is an unlikely failure mode but there is a possibility this could happen if the motor has failed after a very long high load operation, where the motor has gotten extremely hot and the insulation of the windings has stopped functioning as it should. To test this you need to measure the resistance of the winding with a low resistance motor tester. Motors that have a winding short may show considerably more drag when turning, Shorted motor windings indication: this will show in an abnormally high unloaded current draw. 12. Trouble shooting: Step 7 Water ingress into motor, controller or Throttle When water gets into the motor or controller, unusual effects can occur. To minimise the chance of this happening the motor drain hole should be facing downwards and the motor wires should be covered with silicon on entry to the motor. To minimise water entry into the controller the wire exit from the controller should be downwards, so that no water can run along the cables and into the controller. Also so that the Rs232 Plug does not get water ingress cover it, we have an optional motor controller cover that protects the Rs232 port and cable joins from water/mud splash. If water does get into the controller the effect is a stuttering motor similar to when the hall signals are not working properly. If water gets into the throttle, you may get no output or full throttle. If the controller has failed due to water ingress, it will fix itself if left to dry out or dried with a hair drier gradually. Water ingress indication: Erratic behaviour

13 Page 13 of Trouble shooting: Step 8 Motor cuts out but restarts If your motor cuts out and restarts after a short period of time then one of the protection features in either the motor, controller or battery has kicked in. To track down which one of these it could be, you need to do some test. a) If the throttle lights stay on but flash red, and the motor restarts after cooling down after waiting 10 minutes then this is a motor overheat event. If all lights on throttle go off then most likely the battery BMS has cut-out. b) Do a power cycle, i.e disconnect the battery from the controller and see if it restarts. The throttle on off switch is not a power cycle. If after power cycling the motor starts strait away without waiting 10minutes, then most likely this is not an overheat event, but more an over current or LVC event in the battery BMS or Controller fault. c) To see if it s a controller over temp/over current/lvc protection alarm, check the fault code led description on the next page.

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16 Page 16 of Trouble shooting CHECK SHEET Please us the results of these TEST s below : Section. Question Text 5 1 Where you riding over very rough and bumpy terrain? 2 Was it raining heavily when the motor stopped working or was it raining on the last few rides before this happened? 3 Did you smell or hear a puff of smoke at the time of failure? 4 Did you go for a long ride, in hot weather going up steep hills at the time of failure? 6 Are there any bad connections in a) b) c) or d)? 7 Is their battery voltage at the controller terminals? if so what voltage at rest? 8 A Is the throttle supply voltage present? What voltage is it? 8 B Is the throttle Output signal? What voltage does it swing from low to high? 9 Have any of the 6 continuity tests on the MOSFETS failed the tests? Which ones? 10 B Do the hall sensors receive correct supply voltage? What voltage? 10 C D E Do any of the hall sensors fail the test? Which ones? 11 Did you repeat the hall sensor test with the motor upside down? did you still get good hall signals? 12 Are there any indications of shorted motor windings? 13 Are their any indications of water ingress into the motor? Controller or throttle? Pass/ Fail Test or Yes /NO Test Results Value **SAFETY** Is Very Important:

17 Page 17 of 17 Please check that all steps have been followed and if you are unsure please contact us or your local bicycle shop to ensure the kit is installed safely onto your bicycle. For your own safety AT ALL TIMES KEEP hands and fingers away from the chains or moving parts of the bicycle when operating. 16. Fill out troubleshooting check sheet and to us Please us your trouble shooting check sheet results or if you have any further question at: For our latest upgrades and pricing please see our website: