This advice was put together by Roger Butterfield for SJSC in June 2003 following the installation of a Walzendynamo 9501.

Transcription

1 This advice was put together by Roger Butterfield for SJSC in June 2003 following the installation of a Walzendynamo It consists of: advice about the selection of a dynamo advice on fitting the Walzendynamo a translation of the factory instruction sheet (1995) for the installation of the remote control mechanism notes on the differences in the current remote control mechanism advice on electrical connections disclaimer acknowlegement Section 1: Why the Walzendynamo? If you are not sure what type of lighting you need spend a couple of hours on the Audax UK website s lighting page ( You will end up with more questions than answers but it may clarify your thoughts. In deciding that you need dynamo lighting you are likely to find that: you ride quite often at night you sometimes end up riding into the dark but you hate the idea of carrying battery lamps around just in case you ride significant distances in the dark, so that carrying and replacing batteries is a problem battery lamps don t perform well enough for your needs In selecting a bottom bracket dynamo you have probably decided that: a hub dynamo would be ideal but it s just too expensive a bottle dynamo is a bit crude and you don t like the idea of the sideloading on your wheels and the slippage in the wet The Walzendynamo 9501 is a good choice provided that: you have a frame with mudguards fitted and/or a brace between the front of the chain stays you have a fair amount of mechanical ability (eg you maintain your own bike) Section 2: Fitting the dynamo

2 The dynamo fits behind the bottom bracket underneath the front end of the chain stays. If you have stout mudguards you may be able to fit the dynamo directly to the mudguard. If you have plastic mudguards like the ESGE/SKS type I suggest you fit the dynamo first and then fit the front of the mudguard to the dynamo mounting bracket. This is the method I describe in detail. The dynamo mounting bracket is the long thin steel plate with six holes in it. The cranked end goes at the bottom (when the bike is the right way up) and the cranked section is to the front. From the bottom the holes correspond to: 1. Bowden cable outer 2. location lug on dynamo 3. through bolt for dynamo 4. clamp for chain stay brace 5. clamp for chain stay brace 6. steady to seat tube Turn the bike over and remove the rear wheel. If you are going to fix the dynamo mounting to your mudguards they must be pretty rigid. Pay particular attention to the way the mudguard attaches to the chain stay brace. A spring clip and a couple of rivets are unlikely to be enough. At least make a clamp which goes right round the chain stay brace. You need to place the bracket inside the mudguard with the bottom three holes below and well clear of the end of the mudguard. Loosely fit the dynamo to holes 2 and 3 to see how much clearance you need. Fasten the bracket to the mudguard with at least three fastenings and then fit the dynamo. If you decide that your mudguard is not strong enough remove it. Using holes 4 and/or 5 fasten the bracket to the wheel side of the chain stay brace. Remember that the cranked section at the bottom goes to the front. You may be lucky enough to have a boss to bolt into. Failing this either take the bracket from your mudguard or make up a clamp. You can easily manufacture a saddle clamp from aluminium or you may be able to use a 15mm pipe clip. For a better fit you can use a half round file to shape the dynamo bracket so that it sits neatly on the brace. You now have the bracket located vertically but it will spin around the chain stay brace if you apply any force. You need to brace the bracket back to the frame to stop this happening. I found the easiest way was to take a 28mm pipe clip, fit a 5mm bolt and snap the pipe clip round the seat tube. The bolt the runs back to hole 6 on the dynamo bracket and a couple of nuts are used to clamp things firmly. You may have to cater for the run of a front changer cable but there should be room. Now refit the mudguard, which may require a little trimming. The bolt through hole 6 of the bracket should be sufficient to hold it in place. Locate the lug on the dynamo hinged bracket into hole 2 so that the roller is downwards (ie upwards with the bike turned over) and to the rear. Use the 5mm nut and bolt supplied to bolt through the bracket. Now fit the control lever and cable. Section 3: translation of German instruction sheet

3 Assembly/Installation instructions for Walzendynamo 9501 with remote control The Walzendynamo 9501 consists of the dynamo, the remote control with fastenings and connecting cables and lights (front and rear). The following steps should be carried out when mounting the dynamo to the mudguard by the bottom bracket: fit the switch holder (1) with spacer (2) to the right or left side of the stem and push it as far down as possible and secure (warning press the clip down in the holder as far as it will go) thread the two M6 nuts (3) onto the cable adjuster (4) as far as they will go thread the cable adjuster (4) into switch holder (1) and screw it right in push the switch lever (5) into the holder (1) and then thread the Bowden cable inner (6) through it from the top put the Bowden cable outer (7) onto the inner from below push the outer into the cable adjuster (4) as far as it will go and then secure it with a clamp to the underneath of the frame tube so that the cable is held with no slack CAUTION the Bowden cable should lie under the frame tube put the piece of protective sleeving 6.1 made from Teflon to protect the frame paintwork and as a wire guide onto the end of the cable turn the bike over and remove the rear wheel and bike stand remove screw (12) and open the forks in order to detach roller (11) from the hinged bracket thread the end of the Bowden cable through openings 9 and 10 in that order from top to bottom attach roller (11) again in reverse order put the screw nipple onto the end of the Bowden cable and attach lightly tightly fit the hinged bracket between the plate (15) and the mudguard (16) and secure the eye of the earth cable CAUTION after installation the dynamo wheel must run centrally on the tyre remove screw nipple (13), bring the switch lever to position one (ON) and press the screw nipple into the slot on the hinged bracket push protective sleeving 6.1 centrally under the bottom bracket pull the Bowden cable taut and screw the nipple on securely clip off the excess wire with wire cutters leaving about 5mm spare and put on the end cap (17)

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5 Section 4: variations on current model The current version uses a Bowden cable outer which runs all the way from the switch to the dynamo mounting bracket. It will need to be cut to length once the lever and bracket are in place and the cut end should be cleaned of burrs. A ferrule is supplied. There are two clamps to secure the cable to the frame. It takes a while to get the length of inner cable right and it s a good idea to solder the section you are going to cut so it doesn t start to unravel if you end up re-threading it. Once the dynamo and cable are fitted check that: the dynamo roller is well clear of the wheel (at least 10mm) with the switch in the OFF position the roller runs on the wheel and the Bowden cable is slack in the ON position If not check that the cables are correctly fitted and adjusted. You can make some adjustment with the cable adjuster. If the cables are right any further adjustment has to take place at the dynamo mounting plate. The options are to move it vertically to get a better position or to pivot it round the chain stay brace. Section 5: Electrical connections. Note that this dynamo is not really a dynamo at all; it is an alternator. This has two important implications: it doesn t matter which connections you use for live and earth if you are fault finding a multimeter on DC volts will read zero; you need to be on AC volts To access the electrical connections take out the single bolt that holds the dynamo to the mounting bracket and swing the dynamo to one side. The instructions suggest using the frame for earth. This will work, but if you are only powering a front light it s as easy to run a proper earth wire. There are four electrical tags in two pairs. As long as you use one + and one it doesn t matter which you use. Bare the wires, run them through the holes in the wiring plugs (supplied) and push them onto the connectors on the dynamo. Once you have made the connections you want use the remaining plugs to blank off the remaining terminals and then give everything a good coat of some sort of sealant (eg tent seam seal) things can get pretty wet down there. If you are only using a front light you can certainly run a 3 watt bulb instead of the 2.4 watt usually supplied. In fact you will need to, for, despite the voltage regulator in the Union headlight I used, I blew two 2.4 watt bulbs before getting a 3 watt version. As the bulbs are expensive I have put a couple of Zenner diodes into the system to prevent further problems. Disclaimer Whilst I accept no responsibility for any errors in these instructions they are given in good faith and from experience gained in fitting the dynamo. For comment or further advice contact rogerbutterfield@ontel.net.uk

6 Acknowledgement Many thanks to Trudi Hodges, Hope Valley College, Derbyshire for translating section 3 from the German original.